Fine Fragrance - Forum
Transcription
Fine Fragrance - Forum
Aug 2015 - Managerial Level Case Study Scent learncima.com 1 Know Your Preseen (KYP) This is known as Know Your Pre-seen (KYP) issued by LearnCIMA.com KYP is a repetition of the pre-seen and the objective is to make reading the pre-seen user-friendly. There are several slides included outside the pre-seen and they have been marked with an “e”. 2 Financial Manager of Scent Your are a Financial Manager in Scent, a fragrance manufacturer. 3 Before we begin- Movie Time! Perfume: The Story of a Murderer 2006 German Fantasy Thriller Film directed by Tom Tykwer Based on Patrick Süskind's 1985 novel called ‘Perfume’ Click icon below to watch trailer 4 Trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zutiIw_2e2g General Information about Scent 5 Company Profile Industry Name Home Country Head Office Inception – Perfume Industry – Scent – Zeeland – Capital City of Zeeland – 1945 6 Company Profile Facilities – Development Laboratory– At Head Office – 3 Major Factories – Outskirts of the Capital city – South west of Zeeland Company Structure – Divisional structure – 4 Divisions 7 Company Profile Revenue Gross profit Net profit (2015) – Z$ 1,267 million – Z$ 576 million – Z$ 42 million 8 Scent – The Fragrance Manufacturer Home country is Zeeland Scent is a Fragrance Manufacturer Scent is one of the world’s leading Perfume Houses 9 Scent exports products globally to over 100 countries Scent – Company History Timeline 1945 1995 Scent was established 70 years ago by two brothers Joseph Frederic the great grandson of one founder is now the Deputy CEO They developed a successful range of fine fragrances Many of them are still being sold today 2015 Some shares are still being For the last 20 years Scent has been owned by descendants of the quoted on the national stock exchange 10 founders Fragrances, Aromatic Compounds & the Fragrance Industry 11 Perfume “e” Perfume is a liquid with a pleasant smell, usually made from oils taken from flowers or spices used on the human body, animals, food, objects, and living spaces. Perfumes have been known to exist in some of the earliest human civilizations such as in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, through ancient texts or from archaeological digs. Wall paintings of Ancient Egyptians using Perfume 12 Perfume “e” Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis (artificial combination) of different aroma compounds which allowed for the creation of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics alone. 1880s Solon Palmer "Gardenglo" Perfume Bottle 13 Perfume - etymology “e” ‘Perfume’ originated from the Latin word ‘parfumare’ (to smoke through) – ‘per’ (through) + ‘fumare’ (to smoke) which formed the French word ‘parfum’ (pleasantsmelling smoke from a burning substance) 14 Fragrance “e” A Fragrance is a chemical compound that has a smell or odour. Synonyms: Aroma Compound, Odorant, Aroma A Fragrance is: ‘’a pleasant and usually sweet smell’’ ‘’ a perfume or cologne’’ 15 Meaning of Scent (Noun)“e” 1. ‘’a pleasant smell that is produced by something’’ Ex: The flower has a wonderful scent. 2. ‘’a smell that is left by an animal or person and that can be sensed and followed by some animals (such as dogs)’’ Ex: The dogs followed the fox's scent. - often used figuratively (non-literal/symbolically) Ex: The reporter was on the scent of a big story. [=was following/investigating a big story] 16 Meaning of Scent (Noun)“e” 3. ‘’a slight indication of something that is going to happen or that might happen’’ Ex: There was a scent [=hint] of trouble in the air. [=trouble was developing]. 4. ‘’a liquid that is put on your body to give it a pleasant odour’’ Ex: a bottle of scent. 17 Meaning of Scent (Verb)“e” 1. ‘’to become aware of (something) by smell’’ Ex: The dog scented a rabbit. - often used figuratively (non-literal/symbolically) Ex: We scented [=sensed, detected] trouble and left. 2. ‘’ to give (something) a pleasing smell’’ Ex: Roses scented [=perfumed] the air. - often used as (be) scented Ex: The room was scented by the flowers. Ex: The air was scented with/by her perfume. 18 Fragrances & Cosmetics Fragrances are regarded as part of the cosmetics industry. 19 Cosmetics “e” Cosmetics (also known as makeup or make-up) are care substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body. They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds, some being derived from natural sources (such as coconut oil) and many being synthetics. A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to colouring products intended to alter the user’s appearance. 20 Types of Cosmetics “e” Cosmetics include: skin-care creams baby products lotions bath oils powders bubble baths perfumes bath salts and many other types of products. lipsticks fingernail & toe nail polish eye & facial makeup towelettes permanent waves coloured contact lenses hair colours hair sprays and gels deodorants 21 Cosmetics Industry “e” The cosmetic industry is dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in the early 20th century, but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different businesses. The largest cosmetic companies are The L'Oréal Group, The Procter & Gamble Company, Unilever, Shiseido Company, Limited and Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. 22 Describing & Categorization of Perfumes “e” A perfume can be described using Fragrance Notes and also using the family/group/category the perfume belongs to. There are several main types of Fragrance Categories: 1. Olfactory Fragrance Groups 2. Traditional • Emerged around 1900 3. Modern • Since 1945, due to great advances in the technology of perfume creation (i.e., compound design and synthesis) as well as the natural development of styles and tastes, new categories have emerged to describe modern scents 4. Fragrance Wheel • Created in 1983 by Michael Edwards 23 Fragrance Notes “e” Fragrances develop in 3 stages, and you will notice that different aromas are released as these stages progress with time. 1. Top Note • The initial, lighter smell of the fragrance which lasts around 815 minutes. Examples of these notes include citruses, powdery scents and light florals. 2. Heart or Middle Note • The main elements of the fragrance, these notes develop after the top note clears, usually around 30 minutes after being sprayed. Heart notes most often include heavier floral scents. 3. Base Note • The last to develop and helps fix the fragrance to the skin. This is where you will smell the bolder notes of the scent, such as smokes and leathers which become more noticeable when the fragrance has been on the skin for a while. 24 Fragrance Notes “e” 25 Main Olfactory Fragrance Groups “e” ‘Olfactory’ means relating to the sense of smell. Grouping & categorisation of perfumes is not definite or precise. Many fragrances contain aspects of different families. Classification by Olfactory family is a starting point for a description of a perfume, but it cannot by itself denote the specific characteristic of that perfume. 26 Main Olfactory Fragrance Groups “e” Citrus Description Fresh & sharp based on aromas of citrus fruits Floral Chypre Oriental Biggest group & varies largely with different flowers Comprised of citrus top Based on spices note, floral middle note & and related oaky & musky bass scents Aromatic compound examples • Lemon • Grapefruit • Orange • Lilac • Lily • Rose • Oak moss • Sandalwood • Patchouli Associated Personality Energetic & lively Romantic & Softer Thoughtful, resourceful & Exciting, humble adventurous, fearless & courageous 27 • Resins • Vanilla • Cinnamon Main Olfactory Fragrance Groups “e” 28 Traditional Classification “e” Single Floral Floral Bouquet Amber/ Oriental • Fragrances that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower; in French called a soliflore. • Is a combination of fragrance of several flowers in a perfume compound. • A large fragrance class featuring the sweet slightly animalic scents of ambergris or labdanum, often combined with vanilla, tonka bean, flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils & incense resins Woody • Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of agarwood, sandalwood, cedarwood, and vetiver. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes. Leather • A fragrance family which features scents of honey, tobacco, wood and wood tars in its middle or base notes & a scent that indicates to leather. Chypre • Meaning Cyprus in French, includes fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum Fougère • Meaning Fern in French, built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Many men's fragrances belong to this fragrance family, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent. Modern Classification “e” Bright Floral • Combining the traditional Single Floral & Floral Bouquet categories Green • A lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type, with pronounced cut grass, crushed green leaf and cucumber-like scents. Aquatic/ Oceanic/ Ozonic • The newest category in perfume history, first appearing in 1988 Davidoff Cool Water. Leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes. Generally contains calone, a synthetic scent discovered in 1966, or other more recent synthetics. Also used to accent floral, oriental, and woody fragrances. Citrus • An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes, due to the low tenacity of citrus scents. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances. Fruity • Featuring the aromas of fruits other than citrus, such as peach, cassis (black currant), mango, passion fruit, and others. Gourmand • French: scents with "edible" or "dessert"-like qualities. These often contain notes like vanilla, tonka bean and coumarin, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors. The Fragrance Wheel “e” The Fragrance wheel is a relatively new classification method that is widely used in retail & in the fragrance industry. The method was created in 1983 by Michael Edwards, a consultant in the perfume industry. 31 Aromatic Compounds Fragrances consist of an aromatic compound. They can be derived from either a natural or synthetic (artificial) source. Many natural compounds are obtained from flowers and other plants which are grown and harvested for the purpose. Some compounds are derived from animals, although many of the traditional animal compounds have been phased out because of controversy surrounding their collection. 32 Aromatic Compounds Instead of natural aromatic compounds, synthetic compounds can be manufactured in the laboratory. Chemical processes are used to mimic natural fragrances that cannot be derived from natural sources, such as animal products that have been phased out, and also to produce fragrances that cannot be found in nature. 33 Aromatic Compound Sources “e” Plant sources Bark (cinnamon & cascarilla ) Flowers & blossoms (rose, jasmine, citrus , clove , vanilla) Fruits (citrus such as oranges, lemons, limes) Leaves and twigs (lavender, hay & tomato leaves, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary, and citrus leaves) Resins (labdanum, frankincense, myrrh, pine and fir resins) Roots, rhizomes and bulbs (iris, rhizomes, vetiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family) Seeds (tonka bean, carrot seed, coriander, caraway, cocoa, nutmeg, mace, cardamom) Woods (sandalwood, rosewood, birch, cedar, juniper, and pine) Seaweeds 34 Aromatic Compound Sources “e” Animal sources – now most are replaced with synthetic compounds Ambergris ( released by sperm whales-doesn’t harm the whale) Castoreum (from the North American beaver) North American Civet Musk ( from the Civet) Beaver Hyraceum (from the Rock Hyrax) Honeycomb ( made by the honeybee) Musk ( from the male Musk deer) Rock Hyrax Musk deer 35 Aromatic Compound Sources “e” Synthetic sources Many modern perfumes contain synthesized odorants. Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature. Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies. They include: International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) Givaudan Firmenich Takasago Symrise 36 Aromatic Compounds used by Scent Some fragrance houses market high-end perfumes using natural ingredients But many have replaced expensive natural oils with cheaper synthetics often without publicising the fact that their fragrance has changed slightly. Many of the compounds used by Scent are scarce and some can be difficult to obtain. 37 Natural vs Synthetic Compounds Natural Compounds Strength Synthetic Compounds Often prized for their subtlety Generally more consistent (delicate features) and complexity Can be cheaper than natural compounds (not always the case) Weakness Can be difficult to recreate a consistent fragrance Can lack the complexity of a natural product Example 1 kg of essential oil derived from rose blossoms requires between 3 and 5 tonnes of rose blossoms, over a million flowers, to be hand-picked on the morning when the flowers first open. The resulting oil costs more than Z$5,000 per kg, whereas the same amount of the synthetic equivalent can be purchased for less than Z$400. Oils extracted from a particular variety of flower may be affected by the location in which they have been grown and even by the weather in that location. 38 Fragrances Generally consumers regard fragrances as a luxury product. But most consumers who use fragrances use them on a daily basis in spite it being considered as a luxury. A bottle of perfume can last for a considerable time with careful application, even if its used almost daily. 39 Fragrances Fragrances are often purchased as gifts. These factors mean that sales of perfume and other fragrances are not particularly sensitive to economic trends. 40 Perfume Industry The perfume industry generates global revenues of Z$30 billion (Z$30,000 million) a year. 41 Global Fragrance market size 2012 - 2021“e” The estimated size of the global fragrance market from 2012 to 2021 in million U.S. dollars 42 Perfume Industry & Fashion Industry Many consumers who could not afford clothing made by a famous designer can enjoy some of the brand experience by purchasing their fragrance. For example, a leading fashion house recently stated that 85% of its revenue came from perfume sales. Global Fashion Houses which also sell perfumes 43 Top 3 Fragrance Industry trends in 2015 “e” 1. Niche fragrances to become more popular According to Euromonitor International, the rising popularity of niche fragrances is the first noticeable trend for this year. Consumers will continue to look for an effective identity and ability to relate emotionally and personally to a fragrance and in line with this, industry players are formulating fragrances with alternative ingredients such as sea salt and saffron among such ingredients. 44 Top 3 Fragrance Industry trends in 2015 “e” 1. Niche fragrances to become more popular Estée Lauder’s recent acquisitions of Le Labo and Frédéric Malle illustrate the attempt of big players to tap into this market segment. However, the explosion of niche fragrances in the market also means that competition is intensifying. In order to address this challenge, it is recommended that fragrance player should “sustain their niche intent and avoid commoditising the scent.” 45 Top 3 Fragrance Industry trends in 2015 “e” 2. Increased personalization This is the second trend identified by Euromonitor International. The recent My Burberry launch by Burberry allows consumers to monogram bottles of the fragrance with their initials. Its noted that brands increasingly allow consumers to personalise fragrance bottles. Similar initiatives were seen from Serge Lutens, Atelier Cologne and Guerlain 46 Top 3 Fragrance Industry trends in 2015 “e” 3. Innovations in retail experiences The third trend pointed by Euromonitor International is the increased competition between department stores and specialized retailers to enhance the consumer purchasing experience through new retail formats. An example is the fragrance library opened at New York’s Saks Fifth Avenue. In the library, consumers can learn more about fragrances and the heritage behind them. 47 Top 3 Fragrance Industry trends in 2015 “e” 3. Innovations in retail experiences Euromonitor’s analyst also points out standalone stores of brands such as Chanel and Dior where consumers can find a wide product mix featuring key heritage fragrances, as well as fashionable new items or best selling ones. Also the exclusive collections that top fragrance brands have been developing during recent years can be added. Read more: http://blog.euromonitor.com/2014/12/three-trendsshaping-the-fragrances-market-for-2015.html 48 Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Inc. is an upscale fashion house founded by American fashion designer Calvin Klein. Headquartered in Midtown Manhattan, New York City and is currently owned by Phillips-Van Heusen. Dolce & Gabbana 49 An Italian luxury industry fashion house started by Italian designers Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana in 1985. Produces clothing, footwear, handbags, sunglasses, watches, jewellery, perfumery & cosmetics. Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Gucci An Italian fashion and leather goods brand, part of the Gucci Group, which is owned by French company Kering. Founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence in 1921. Gucci is also the biggestselling Italian brand. Chanel Chanel S.A. is a French privately held company. It is a high fashion house that specializes in haute couture and ready-to-wear clothes, luxury goods and fashion accessories. 50 Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Prada Prada S.p.A. is an Italian luxury fashion house, specilialized ready-to-wear, leather and fashion accessories, shoes, luggage, perfumes, watches etc., founded in 1913 by Mario Prada. Bulgari Is an Italian jewellery and luxury goods brand that produces and markets several product lines including jewellery, watches, fragrances, accessories, and hotels. 51 Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Christian Dior Parfums Christian Dior is the perfumery and cosmetics line of the French fashion house, Christian Dior S.A.. However, the line belongs to the perfumes and cosmetics portfolio of the world's largest luxury group, the LVMH Group. Begun in 1947 with the introduction of the women's Miss Dior perfume, Parfums Christian Dior has since come to include men's frangrances as well. 52 Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Firmenich Firmenich SA is a private Swiss company in the perfume and flavor business. It is the largest privately owned company in the field and ranks number two worldwide. Firmenich has created perfumes for over 100 years and produced a number of well-known flavours. 53 Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Guerlain Guerlain is a French perfume house, among the oldest in the world. It has a large customer following, and has traditionally been held in high esteem in the perfume industry. Perfumes by Guerlain are often said to be characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the "Guerlinade." A perfume by the same name was launched by Guerlain in 1921. Lancôme Lancôme Paris is a French luxury cosmetics house that distributes products internationally. Owned by L'Oréal since 1964, Lancôme is part of the Luxury Products division, which offers skin care, fragrances and makeup at higher-end prices. 54 Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Burberry Burberry Group plc is a British luxury fashion house, distributing clothing, fashion accessories, fragrances and cosmetics. Its distinctive tartan pattern has become one of its most widely copied trademarks. Burberry is most famous for its trench coat, which was designed by founder Thomas Burberry. The company has branded stores and franchises around the world and also sells through concessions in third-party stores. 55 Famous Global Perfume Brands “e” Givaudan Givaudan is a Swiss manufacturer of flavorings and fragrances. The company's scents and flavors are developed most often for food and beverage makers, but they are also used frequently in household goods, as well as grooming and personal care products. Givaudan was founded as a perfumery company in 1895 in Zurich by Leon and Xavier Givaudan In 2008, Givaudan released one of the world's first mobile perfume recommendation tools, the iPerfumer app. 56 Worlds Most Expensive Perfumes “e” DKNY Golden Delicious Million Dollar Fragrance Bottle $1 million In 2011, DKNY divulged its brilliant apple-formed million dollar bottle of perfume which contains 2,909 valuable stones. The perfume is created in 14-karat yellow and white gold and contains 183 yellow sapphires, 2,700 white precious stones, a 1.6carat turquoise Paraiba tourmaline from Brazil, a 7.18-carat oval Cabochon sapphire from Sri Lanka, 15 striking pink jewels from Australia, 4-rose cut precious stones, a 3.07-carat oval cut ruby, a 4.03-carat pear shape rose cut jewel, and a 2.43-carat perfect clear yellow Canary precious stone embellishing the cap. The bottle would be sold to an aroma devotee and all returns would be given to the worldwide philanthropy Action against Hunger. Worlds Most Expensive Perfumes “e” Clive Christian No. 1 Imperial $12,721.89 per ounce Majesty Perfume This perfume holds the Guinness Book of World Records title as the most costly perfume on the planet. Discharged in 2005, just a 10-container run of this super-uncommon, super-restrictive restricted version aroma was discharged available to be purchased in the celebrated Harrods store in London and Bergdorf Goodman in New York. The “No. 1 Imperial Majesty” is truly simply a Clive Christian No. 1 – in an exceptionally favour bottle. The entire jug contains 16.9 ounces of aroma (importance the expense for a jug is $215,000), and is made via Baccarat, beautified with a 5-carat white precious stone on the neck and encompassed in a 18-carat robust gold neckline.. Worlds Most Expensive Perfumes “e” Baccarat Les LarmesSacrees de Thebes $6,800 per ounce This perfume is costly for both the smell itself and the container it comes in. Baccarat is an extravagance gem crystal producer and one of the main decisions in artisan bottle creation for top of the line perfume organizations as far and wide as possible. In 1998, the organization propelled three of its own constrained release scents, and this one was the minimum delivered, making it the rarest and generally significant. Products of Scent & Perfume Concentrations 60 Scents Product divisions & Products Fine Fragrance • Manufactures legacy fragrances • Generally intended to be sold in the long term. • Many were 1st developed by the founders & still sold today Cinque Fleurs Fleur d’Herbe Celebrity Fragrance Bath & Body Fragrance Home Fragrance • Manufactures celebrity fragrances • Manages relationship with the celebrities • Generates approx. 50% of Scents revenue • Manufactures a range of bath oils, shower gels, soaps & body lotions to match perfumes • Manufactures room scent diffusers & candles • Smallest division Wim Wilder Cologne 61 Scents Product divisions & Products 4 Product Divisions Fine Fragrance Legacy fragrances Celebrity Fragrance Celebrity fragrances Bath & Body Fragrance Bath oils, Shower gels, Soaps & Body lotions Home Fragrance Room scent diffusers & candles Scent manufactures ranges of fragrances for both men & women • Perfumes & Eau de toilette for women 62 • Aftershave & Cologne for men Fleur d’Herbe Cinque Fleurs Wim Wilder Cologne Wim Wilder is a fictional Hollywood action hero Scents Product divisions & Products Fine Fragrance (Legacy Perfumes) Celebrity Fragrance 4 Product Divisions Bath & Body Fragrance Intended to be sold in the long term Many were first developed by founders Associated with popular celebrities such as Wim Wilder All perfume fragrances in Scent & Every new perfume product in Scent falls into the 2 categories – Fine or Celebrity Home Fragrance Scent manufactures a wide range of branded fragrances 63 Expensive vs Cheap Products in Scent Expensive Cheap More permanent brand name Supported through advertising & promotions Celebrity endorsed Generates publicity & awareness More expensive products in Scent are usually given a more permanent brand name that can be supported through advertising & promotions. New products aimed at the lower end of the market are named after celebrities to increase publicity for the product’s launch. The market is keen to buy a product that is associated with a favourite 64 musician or film star. Scents Product - Fleur d’Herbe Name: Fleur d’Herbe Fleur d’Herbe Type: Women’s Perfume Creation: 1950’s Price: Z$100 (considered very expensive) Ingredients used: Natural ingrediants Product Type in Scent: Legacy Perfume Marketing & Branding: Advertised extensively on TV & magazines Beautifully packed in a luxury box & bottle Associated with many actors, singers and film stars over the years Compared with: (in recent newspaper article) Discount supermarket Sellit’s Z$3.99 priced perfume called ‘Fall’ 65 Perfume Concentrations “e” Specific terms are used to describe a fragrance's approximate concentration by percent/volume of perfume oil. A list of common terms is as follows: No Type Code 1 Parfum / Extrait 2 Esprit de Parfum ESdP 3 Eau de Parfum EdP Other names Aromatic Oil % Perfume extract / Perfume 15–40% 15–30% Eau de perfume/ millésime 10–20% Parfum de Toilette PdT 4 Eau de Toilette EdT 5–15% 5 Eau de Cologne EdC 3–8% 6 Perfume mist 7 Splash & Aftershave 3–8% EdS 1–3% 66 Different product types There are no formal agreed definitions of different product types, such as aftershave versus cologne, and the various names are used almost interchangeably. The following percentages are only very broadly indicative rather than prescriptive. Product type Aromatic compound (‘oil’) % Alcohol % Water % High quality perfume/aftershave 25 70 5 Mid-market perfume/aftershave 10 75 15 Eau de toilette/cologne 5 80 15 The above classification is based on the pre-seen 67 Perfume Concentrations “e” Fragrances consist of a concentration of perfume oils in a solvent (usually alcohol). The more perfume oil in a fragrance (and therefore the less alcohol), the more ‘strength’ the fragrance has. The strengths are broken down into the categories shown below: 68 Difference between product types Differences between different products in a fragrance range are not only based on the water contents. For example, Scent has a range called ‘Handle’ comprising: a perfume, an eau de toilette a bath oil Handle Perfume Eau de toilette Bath oil Similarities Identical in many aspects such as fragrance Differences Perfume has a much higher concentration of aromatic compound Similarities All 3 – have the same fragrance Differences Bath oil is made from different synthetic compounds to help retain fragrance when diluted in hot bath water 69 Perfume Solvents The aromatic compound may be diluted with a solvent, such as ethanol. The compound is then likely to be further diluted with oil, such as coconut oil, to carry the fragrance and avoid harming the wearer’s skin. 70 Perfume Solvents “e” Perfume oils are often diluted with a solvent, though this is not always the case, and its necessity is disputed. By far the most common solvent for perfume oil dilution is ethanol like brandy, cognac, pisco, rakia and rectified strips or a mixture of ethanol and water. Perfume oil can also be diluted by means of neutralsmelling oils such as fractionated coconut oil, or liquid waxes such as jojoba oil. 71 General information about Zeeland 72 Zeeland Scent’s Home country is Zeeland Head office is located in the capital city Development Laboratory located at Head office 3 Major Factories located in: – Outskirts of the capital city – South west of Zeeland 73 Flower growing - South West Zeeland An area in south west of Zeeland has a warm climate & fertile soil. For many years for flowers have been grown for the the perfume industry in that area. Companies based there harvest the flowers & distil fragrances to make perfumes. Scent also has a major factory there 74 Zeeland – Flower growing Some companies harvest the flowers & distil fragrances to make perfumes. Other companies import natural exotic fragrances from overseas and producing synthetic (artificial) substitutes. 75 Zeeland Zeeland’s currency is the Z dollar (Z$). Zeeland has adopted International Financial Reporting Standards. (IFRS) 76 Manufacturing Fragrances 77 Manufacturing Fragrances The creation of a new fragrance is an art that requires a skilled perfumer or ‘nose’. The development process is ongoing: consumer tastes change, fragrances sometimes have to be replaced or manufacturers test the market with a new product 78 Perfumer “e” A perfumer is a term used for an expert on creating perfume compositions. Sometimes referred to affectionately as a Nose (French: le nez) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. A perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other fragrances. A perfumer must also know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients. 79 Perfumer “e” Most perfumers are employed by several large fragrance corporations in the world including Mane, Firmenich, IFF, Givaudan, Takasago, and Symrise. Some perfumers work exclusively for a perfume house or in their own company which is not common. The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashion houses or large corporations of various industries. 80 Work role of a Perfumer “e” The perfumer typically begins a perfume project with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer. A brief will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what the perfume should smell like or what feelings it should evoke in those who smell it, along with a maximum per litre price of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume, will determine what aromatic ingredients will be used in the perfume composition. The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple perfume mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval. 81 Work role of a Perfumer “e” They proceed to work with the customer, often with the direction provided by a panel or artistic director, which guides and edits the modifications on the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans several months to several years, going over many iterations & may involve cultural & public surveys to tailor a perfume to a particular market. The perfume composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance (shampoos, make-up, detergents, car interiors, etc.) or marketed & sold directly to the public as a fine fragrance. Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume & produce something that later becomes marketable or wins a brief. This is more 82 common in smaller or independent perfume houses. Fragrance Manufacturing Process “e” 1. Collection Initial ingredients must be brought to the manufacturing center. Plant substances are harvested from around the world, often handpicked for their fragrance. Animal products are obtained by extracting the fatty substances directly from the animal. Aromatic chemicals used in synthetic perfumes are created in the laboratory by perfume chemists. 83 Fragrance Manufacturing Process “e” 2. Extraction Oils are extracted from plant substances by several methods: steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression. In solvent extraction, flowers are put into large rotating tanks or drums and benzene or a petroleum ether is poured over the flowers, extracting the essential oils. The flower parts dissolve in the solvents and leave a waxy material that contains the oil, which is then placed in ethyl alcohol. The oil dissolves in the alcohol and rises. Heat is used to evaporate the alcohol, which once fully burned off, leaves a higher concentration of the perfume oil on the bottom. Maceration is similar to enfleurage except that warmed fats are used to soak up the flower smell. As in solvent extraction, the grease and fats are dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils. Expression is the oldest and least complex method of extraction. By this process, now used in obtaining citrus oils from the rind, the fruit or plant is manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is squeezed out. 84 Fragrance Manufacturing Process “e” 2. Extraction In steam distillation, steam is passed through plant material held in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, and liquified. Oils can also be extracted by boiling plant substances like flower petals in water instead of steaming them. 85 Fragrance Manufacturing Process “e” 2. Extraction During enfleurage, flowers are spread on glass sheets coated with grease. The glass sheets are placed between wooden frames in tiers. Then the flowers are removed by hand and changed until the grease has absorbed their fragrance. 86 Creating an enfleurage in the 2006 movie called ‘Perfume: A story of a Murderer’ Fragrance Manufacturing Process “e” 2. Extraction Methods 87 Fragrance Manufacturing Process “e” 3. Blending Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to a formula determined by a master in the field, known as a "nose." It may take as many as 800 different ingredients and several years to develop the special formula for a scent. After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. The amount of alcohol in a scent can vary greatly. Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water. Colognes contain approximately 3-5% oil diluted in 80-90% alcohol, with water making up about 10%. Toilet water has the least amount—2% oil in 60-80% alcohol and 20% water. 88 Fragrance Manufacturing Process “e” 4. Aging Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after it is blended. Following this, a "nose" will once again test the perfume to ensure that the correct scent has been achieved. Each essential oil and perfume has three notes: top notes, central or heart notes and base notes. More "notes," of various smells, may be further blended. 89 Intellectual Property, Brands & Celebrity Endorsement 90 Intellectual Property Protection Intellectual Property Protection Possible • Protect brand names • Protect images • Protect bottles & packaging • Right to use celebrity names Actions taken by Scent Not Possible • Patent or trademark a specific and exact smell • Scent owns a large number of trademarks • Brand names are owned • Owns the right to use specific images, bottles & package designs 91 Scents & Competitors Products Theoretically Scent or its competitors can analyse each others products in a laboratory and the chemical elements could be identified. Practically its virtually impossible to make a perfect copy of another manufacturer’s fragrances due to: Not knowing the precise sources of the different aromatic compounds used in the perfume Not knowing the method in which they were combined 92 Intellectual property of Scent TM A large number of trademarks The brand names of its products Scent owns the following : The rights to use specific images on its packaging Bottles with distinctive designs TM Packaging designs 93 Many are trademarked & cannot be copied without permission Developing Brands Pays a marketing agency a fee to create a brand name for a new product General steps in developing a Brand name in Scent Potential brand names are tested in the marketplace by the agency’s consultants A fee is paid for development of the brand name 94 All rights to the brand belong to Scent Celebrity Endorsement Celebrity-endorsed fragrances are considered as very important factor in the fragrance market. Every year more than 500 new celebrity perfumes are released in the whole industry. The highest sale of celebrity fragrances are typically during the year-end holiday season. 95 Celebrity Endorsement A Celebrity is: Required to do • Engage in promotional activities • Photographed for magazine adverts • Filmed for adverts Agreed NOT to do • Endorse any other products in the fragrance or cosmetic market Time period of contract • Right to use celebrity’s name by Scent • Normally between 1020 years Intellectual rights related to celebrity names are normally more complicated 96 Famous Celebrity Perfumes “e” Brad Pitt Actor Perfume House: Chanel Introduced: 1921 Scent Classification: Floral Aldehyde Featured in: Fall 2012 campaign Madonna Singer, world's top selling female recording artist of all time Perfume: Truth or Dare Perfume House: Dolce & Gabbana Introduced: 2010 97 Famous Celebrity Perfumes “e” Rihanna Singer Perfume House: Parlux Fragrances Perfumes: Reb'l Fleur (2011), Rebelle (2012), Nude (2012) & Rogue (2013) 98 Famous Celebrity Perfumes “e” James Franco Actor Perfume House: Gucci (Owned by P & G) Perfumes: Gucci Pour Homme (2008) Gucci Made to Measure (2013) Scent Classification: Gucci Pour Homme - Woody Made to Measure - Spicy Oriental 99 Bottles, Packaging, Distribution & Delivery 100 Bottles and Packaging Bottles & packaging have iconic and distinctive designs. They are featured prominently in advertising campaigns. Packaging is designed by marketing agencies. Packaging & bottles are manufactured by independent manufacturers . 101 Distribution Channels Department Stores Specialist Fragrance shops Retail Outlets Pharmacies Supermarkets Online Stores 102 Distribution Channels Department Stores Many exclusive department stores have fragrance departments. Scents more expensive brands are stocked by these stores. Customers can try samples of different products. Advisers suggest suitable fragrances as gifts, depending on the age & lifestyle of the intended recipient. Other types of Stores These often compete on the basis of selling price. These aim for high volume sales. Therefore they require significant discounts from Scent. Online Stores A number of online vendors sell Scent’s products. Online store customers often make repeat purchases of known brands. Easy to deliver products by post as in small packages. 103 Delivery Process Scent sells exclusively to retailers. Products are only delivered in bulk to the retailers warehouse or distribution center. Doesn’t deliver to retailers’ individual shops or stores. Each order is packed securely and loaded onto pallets for delivery. 104 Scent’s Board of Directors & Corporate Structure 105 Scent’s Board of Directors . CEO Operations Director Finance Director Executive Deputy CEO Marketing Director Board of Directors Chairman NED 3 106 Non Executive NED 1 NED 2 Executive Directors Georgy Stone – Chief Executive Officer Since: 2010 Previous position: Creative director- Fine fragrance division of Scent Work Experience: Began his career as blender of fragrances at a well-known perfume producer. Worked many years in the perfume industry. 107 Executive Directors Beth Miller – Finance Director Since: 2012 Qualification: Professionally qualified accountant Work Experience: Specialised in the luxury goods market Worked for a number of renowned providers of high quality goods since graduating in 1985 108 Executive Directors Charles Chevalier – Operations Director Since: 2005 Career at Scent: Since 2003, joined from a major competitor Work Experience: Began his career working for a producer and supplier of high quality natural perfume oils 109 Executive Directors Jaspar Skornia – Marketing Director Since: 2002 Qualifications: Graduated from university with a Marketing Degree Work Experience: Has worked in the sales division for several major companies Most recent designation: Franchise Director for a major manufacturer of perfumes, make up and skin care. 110 Executive Directors Joseph Frederic – Deputy Chief Executive Officer Since: not given Relationship: Great grandson of one of the founders of Scent Qualifications: Professionally qualified lawyer 111 Non Executive Directors Ethan Bazalgette – Chairman Since: 2010 Previous designation: CEO of Scent Committees served: Audit & Nomination Committees Other positions held: Director of the Zeeland Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfume Association 112 Non Executive Directors Lewis Jamieson – Non-Executive Director Since: 2012 Previous experience: Successful career in business Qualifications: Professionally qualified lawyer specialising in intellectual property protection Committees served: Convener of Scent’s Nomination committee 113 Non Executive Directors Olivia MacMillan – Non-Executive Director Since: 2009 Previous Experience: Highly successful career with Zeeland’s largest bank Committees served: Convener of Scent’s Audit committee 114 Non Executive Directors Martyna Litwinienko – Non-Executive Director Since: 2012 Previous experience: Partner with a major accountancy firm Committees served: Serves on both the nomination and audit committees 115 Scent’s Corporate Structure 116 Scent’s Corporate Structure Scent has a divisional structure. Each of the four divisions is made up of a number of subsidiary companies. Some of which have been purchased as part of the group’s expansion strategy. Sales, customer relations & finance functions are managed centrally at head office. 117 Risk Management 118 Foreign Exchange Risks Foreign Exchange Risks How? Why? Why? • Fluctuation in foreign exchange rates • Effects profits & cash flows • Exports to over 100 countries • International operations is approx. 70% of business • Financial reports are in Z$ • Currency Risks (Ex: Translation risks) 119 Legal Risks Legal Risks How? • Subject to international government laws & regulations • Subject to laws in Zeeland Why? • Transacts with over 100 countries • International operations is approx. 70% of business 120 Why? • Compliance with regulation on fragrance formulation can be difficult and expensive, requiring reformulation, relabelling or discontinuation of products. Risks associated with Sales Risks related to Sales How? • No long-term contracts with customers • Demand for celebrity fragrances diminishes Effects Actions to mitigate • Revenue & cash flows will be affected • Approx. 50% are from celebrity fragrances & huge risks due to demand drops for celebrity products • Maintain relationships with customers • Demand for celebrity is based on reputation and appeal Need to select correct celebrities & manage relationships 121 Celebrity misbehaviour & Impairment losses Two celebrities who held endorsed fragrances with scent were convicted of drug-related offences. The fragrance ranges that bore their names are to be: Reformulated slightly Re-launched with completely different names & Completely different packaging. The cost of brand names associated with two celebrities were considered as an impairment loss Impairment losses are shown as part of cost of sales (in the year ended June 2015) 122 Risks related to Customers Risks related to Customers Actions to mitigate How? Why? • Customers’ poor business conditions will also affect Scents business as well • Ex: Reduction in retail demand, Credit risks of customers • The fragrance industry is highly competitive and customer preferences can change rapidly. 123 • Making products appealing to a wide range of consumers • Must be able to anticipate & respond to market trends Expansion & Acquisition Risks Expansion & Acquisition Risks How? • Not be able to successfully integrate acquired new businesses • Note being able to achieve intended benefits of acquisition Why? • Expansion of Scents business depends on acquiring new businesses 124 Risks related to Intellectual Property Risks of Intellectual Property How? Effects • Not be able to protect our brand names & intellectual property • Impairment of intangible assets • Revenues would be adversely affected • Profits will be affected due to impairment of intangible assets 125 Investment Risks & Information Investment Risks Projects are evaluated using discounted cash flow How? • Scent’s investment strategy might lead to investing in negative net present value projects. Weighted average cost of capital (WACC) is 12% 126 General Information About LK 127 LK – Scents biggest competitor Name Home Country Inception Founder Founders job – LK – Zeeland – 2005 – Olivia Kelly – Hollywood make-up artist LK is Scents biggest competitor 128 LK – Scents biggest competitor Products Made – (similar products to that of Scent but a smaller range) Perfumes After Shaves Bath oils Home fragrances Manufacturing location – All products in one Factory in Zeeland Factory location – intentionally located in an area of high unemployment to make a positive impact on the local community. 129 LK and Olivia Kelly Founded LK ten years ago A Hollywood make-up artist Olivia Kelly received initial funding to establish LK from a number of Hollywood stars with whom she had worked while in the film industry. She developed her own range of fragrance products, using only: organic and natural ingredients for the aromatic compound. 130 Celebrities and LK Products LK’s products are focussed more on the sector occupied by Scent’s celebrity fragrances. LK has always promoted its products on the basis of simplicity and sustainability. These virtues are appealing to the Hollywood celebrities who have invested in the company and lent their names to some of its leading products. They have also been able to use their contacts in the film industry to persuade other leading celebrities to sign contracts to lend their names to the company’s products. 131 LK – Social Responsibility LK has a policy of assisting its employees as much as possible. Examples: Single parents can apply for flexible working hour arrangements that fit in with their child care responsibilities Applicants who have been unemployed in the long-term can apply for a training programme that improves their prospects of obtaining a job upon completion The factory of LK is deliberately located in an area of high unemployment to make a positive impact on the local community 132 Newspaper Articles in the Scent Case Study 133 Article#1: Celebrity-endorsed Perfume Cost 134 Article#1: Celebrity-endorsed Perfume Cost 135 Article#2: Restrictions on Raw materials 136 Article#3: Substitutes of Competitors 137 Article#3: Substitutes of Competitors 138 Article#4: Independent Producers 139 Scent Group’s Financials 140 Scent- Statement of Profit/Loss 30 June 2015 30 June 2014 Z$ Million Z$ Million Revenue 1,267 1,436 Cost of goods sold (691) (723) 576 713 (507) (558) 69 155 (27) (25) 42 130 Tax expense (54) (57) Profit/(loss) for the year (12) 73 Gross profit Selling, general and administrative expenses Profit/loss from operations Interest expense Net profit/loss 141 Scent- Statement of changes in Equity As at 30 June 2014 Share capital Other components of equity Retained Earnings Total Z$ Million Z$ Million Z$ Million Z$ Million 400 Loss on revaluation 104 105 (21) 609 (21) Loss for year (12) (12) Dividend (30) (30) 63 546 As at 30 June 2015 400 142 83 Scent- Statement of Financial Position 30 June 2015 30 June 2014 Z$ Million Z$ Million Non current assets Property, plant and equipment 117 107 Brands and trademarks 316 357 32 32 465 496 Inventories 348 326 Trade receivable 157 209 54 63 559 598 1024 1094 Goodwill Current Assets Cash and Cash Equivalents Total Assets 143 Scent- Statement of Financial Position 30 June 2015 30 June 2014 Z$ Million Z$ Million Equity Share Capital 400 400 Revaluation reserve 83 104 Retained Earnings 63 105 546 609 295 277 52 46 347 323 Trade payables 82 111 Tax liabilities 49 51 131 162 1024 1094 Non-current liabilities Loans Deferred tax Current Liabilities Total equity and liabilities 144 Scent- Cash Flow Statement 30 June 2015 30 June 2014 Z$ Million Z$ Million Cash flows from operating activities Profit before finance costs 69 155 139 90 Loss on disposal on non-current assets 5 1 Changes in inventories, trade paybl: & trade recv: 1 12 (50) (59) 164 199 (135) (82) 1 6 (134) (76) 18 (25) Dividends paid (30) (35) Interest paid (27) (25) (39) (85) Cash and cash equivalents at beginning of period 63 25 Cash and cash equivalents at end of period 54 63 Depreciation, amortisation & impairment losses Tax paid Net cash from operating activities Cash flows from investing activities Purchase of non-current assets Proceeds of disposal of non-current assets Net cash from investing activities Cash flows from financing activities Loans taken out/(repaid) Net cash from financing activities 145 Note 1 – Geographical Segmental Report Europe, Middle East & Africa America Asia Total Z$ million Z$ million Z$ million Z$ million Revenue 405 646 216 1,267 Operating profit 25 29 15 69 Revenue 17% 32% Operating Profit Europe, Middle East & Africa 22% America 51% 36% Europe, Middle East & Africa America 42% Asia Asia 146 Note 1 – Product wise Segmental Report Fine Fragrance Celebrity Fragrance Bath & Body Fragrance Home Fragrance Total Z$ million Z$ million Z$ million Z$ million Z$ million Revenue 380 570 228 89 1,267 Operating profit 26 21 14 8 69 Operating profit Revenue Fine Fragrance 7% 30% 18% Celebrity Fragrance 12% 38% 20% Home Fragrance 147 Celebrity Fragrance Bath & Body Fragrance Bath & Body Fragrance 45% Fine Fragrance 30% Home Fragrance Note 2 – Property, plant and equipment Cost or valuation As at 30 June 2014 Additions Property Equipment Z$ Million Z$ Million 211 331 15 72 87 (65) (65) (35) As at 30 June 2015 Z$ Million 120 Disposals Revaluation Total (35) 100 218 318 61 163 224 (59) (59) Depreciation As at 30 June 2014 Disposals Revaluation (14) Charge for year (14) 4 46 50 51 150 201 As at 30 June 2014 49 68 117 As at 30 June 2015 59 48 107 As at 30 June 2015 Net book value 148 Note 3 – Brands and Trademarks Property Cost Z$ Million As at 30 June 2014 402 Additions 48 As at 30 June 2015 450 Amortisation and impairment losses As at 30 June 2014 45 Impairment 54 Charge for year 35 As at 30 June 2015 134 Net book value As at 30 June 2015 316 As at 30 June 2014 357 149 Note 3 – Brands and Trademarks • Impairment losses are shown as part of cost of sales. • They relate to the cost of brand names associated with two celebrities who have been convicted of drug-related offences. • The fragrance ranges that bore their names are to be: • reformulated slightly and • relaunched with completely different names and packaging. 150 Note 4 – Tax • The tax expense for the year ended 30 June 2015 includes a penalty charge levied by the tax authorities in respect of previous periods 151 LK- Statement of Profit/Loss Revenue 30 June 2015 30 June 2014 Z$ Million Z$ Million 847 802 (496) (465) 351 337 (144) (138) Profit/loss from operations 207 199 Interest expense (11) (12) Net profit/loss 196 187 Tax expense (37) (32) Profit/(loss) for the year 159 155 Cost of goods sold Gross profit Selling, general and administrative expenses 152 LK- Statement of changes in Equity As at 30 June 2014 Share capital & Premium Retained Earnings Total Z$ Million Z$ Million Z$ Million 200 Profit for the year Dividend As at 30 June 2015 200 153 407 607 159 159 (124) (124) 442 642 LK- Statement of Financial Position 30 June 2015 30 June 2014 Z$ Million Z$ Million Non current assets Property, plant and equipment 94 92 205 132 18 18 317 242 Inventories 348 326 Trade receivable 157 209 54 63 559 598 876 840 Brands and trademarks Goodwill Current Assets Cash and Cash Equivalents Total Assets 154 LK - Statement of Financial Position 30 June 2015 30 June 2014 Z$ Million Z$ Million Equity Share Capital 200 200 Retained Earnings 442 407 642 607 140 140 21 18 161 158 Trade payables 37 41 Tax liabilities 36 34 73 75 876 840 Non-current liabilities Loans Deferred tax Current Liabilities Total equity and liabilities 155 The end… 156