Château Mouton Rothschild`s Master Class at Barrière Frères
Transcription
Château Mouton Rothschild`s Master Class at Barrière Frères
Château Mouton Rothschild’s Master Class at Barrière Frères (December 2006) We recently invited Hervé Berland, Commercial Director & Member of the Directoire of Château Mouton Rothschild, to conduct an inhouse vertical tasting of 9 different vintages of the estate. The vintages tasted were, in series of three: 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1995 & 1994. 2004, 2003, 2002 : all three were still in their “primary” aromatic stage (red and black fruits, new oak …). The 2003 was logically the most open, soft and tender and of massive proportions. Commercially, this 2003 is a steal in comparison to other legendary Mouton’s (05, 00, etc…) The 2004 (smoky, toasted aromas) is of exquisite constitution, inimitable finesse with remarkable purity in its lines as is the 2002 which, today, is more aromatic and fresher (perhaps due to the higher Cabernet Sauvignon blend). 2001, 2000, 1999 : with the 2001 (coffee, cassis, spices, smoky aromas) one begins to feel the very distinctive “Mouton” touch of exotic exuberance which is the hallmark of the estate. It is precisely this impression of being in a warehouse of spices !! Sublime, open and perfect for early-drinking. The 2000 vintage is simply an enormous and spin-shattering wine (which Hervé easily compares with 1986, another Mouton legend). Though arguably closed and obviously too young, it has all the traits of a legend. The 1999 was not completely overshadowed by its predecessor. Logically lighter, more open and evolved, it showed tender ripe fruit. 1998, 1995, 1994 : the revelation of this tasting was undoubtedly this 1998 vintage ! Powerful, massive yet with the classic elegance of Mouton, youthful with enormous fruit and full of promise. A fantastic value ! Whilst the 1995 was not at its best of form (difficult phase of adolescence), the 1994 showed a fairly firm wine, with the vintage’s characteristic tannins. Along with the 2001, 1999, this 1994 is one of the best of early drinking. 9 spectacular sensations, 9 unique emotions PS : At the outset of the tasting, and to my surprise, Hervé confessed that we had been the first négociant in his 30 year career to have taken such an initiative in organising an extensive tasting, in Bordeaux, with an entire sales staff. I must admit that in light of our significant involvement in the Bordeaux Classified Growth market, I can not conceive having a sales staff who is unfamiliar with the nectar behind the labels. Laurent Ehrmann Managing Director