CHEF! IssuE 29

11
Contents
Foreword
18
1 A letter from SACA President
Stephen Billingham.
News
2 Items of interest, issues and
happenings in the culinary world.
Q&A
8Experts answer your industry
questions.
Flavour of the Month
10 Foodie news, information and
interesting produce from around the
country.
24
49
Opinion
14 Brian McCune examines the history
of cookbook ghostwriting.
15 Jackie Cameron explores local
cuisine.
16 Stephen Hickmore bemoans
personality tests in the hiring process.
Training
18 A visit to 1000 Hills’ Chefs School in
KwaZulu-Natal.
Career
20Looking at offsite catering.
Chef Profiles
22 Italy’s most well-known chef, Giorgio
Locatelli.
24 Mount Nelson’s Dion Vengatass and
winner of the By Invitation Only
Masters competition.
57
Interest
26Test tube meat – what is it?
27 Chefs tell us their funniest
experiences with customers.
33 Foraging for SA’s indigenous
ingredients.
35How to get the best out of our Fridge
and Freezer.
36 Flavour Profile: Traditional Mexican
cuisine.
38 Chefs around SA tell us how they’re
using oxtail this winter.
40Trends report back from the SIGEP
tradeshow in Italy.
42Local cuisine: the first in our series
looking at Africa’s culinary heritage.
43 SACA thanks its generous sponsors
44Tips for successful cooking
demonstrations.
45 Conversations with Chefs: food
critics.
Food Feature
46 A journey through the Overberg’s
culinary history from the Cape
Winelands Cuisine cookbook.
Masterclass
50 Fortunato Mazzone shows us how to
joint a rabbit and prepare Neapolitan
Ragú.
SACA Pages
52 A look at Team SA’s Zola Luwaca, the
second in our series on competitions,
a chat with WACS chef Mark
Houghton from England and Past
President Heinz Brunner, and a Q&A
with SACA Director Allister Esau.
Wine World
56Debi van Flymen matches wines with
everyone’s favourite, pizza.
Wine Estate
57 The beautiful Creation Wines on the
Hemel-en-Aarde ridge.
Good Spirits
58World-class cocktails.
Last Word
59 A quick chat with Vanie Padayachee
from Le Quartier Français.
Dear Friends, Colleagues and Sponsors,
At the time of writing, SANRAL had just been in the North
Gauteng High Court battling its detractors to push out the
e-tolling system at the end of April. SANRAL lost and in a
few months the battle will be taken back to the courts. It’s a
difficult situation to call – do we think that this is the end it
or will Gautengers be feeling the effects of forking out extra
money in a few months simply to commute across the city
and province? What effect this will have on the hospitality
industry is yet to be seen, but with ever-rising food and
petrol costs something’s got to give. As chefs we’re at the coal
face of all of these changes and costs have to be cut somewhere, so the next few months are going
to be tough. However, we are a resilient lot and I am positive that we can weather the impending
storm.
This year we are privileged to again play a leading role at Hostex, taking place in Cape Town. It
is an honour to have such a long history and partnership with the Specialised Exhibitions team
and we plan on doing this relationship proud with an action-packed line-up of demonstrations
and competitions at the anchor stand which, for the third year running will be brought to you by
Nestlé Professional. Though this is just one of our major events for the year, it really is a fantastic
opportunity to interact and network with all of our members so please do come and spend some
time at our stand – I look forward to seeing you there.
We recently played host to the Unilever Food Solutions By Invitation Only Masters competition, a
great chance for us to assist in a small way the company that has done so much for Culinary Team
SA. As I’m sure you’re aware, the Team is holding monthly practices in the run-up to the Culinary
Olympics in October, and each practise culminates in a Senior Team dinner and Junior Team lunch.
Please take up this opportunity to support the Team who have been working non-stop to prepare
for the competition of their lives in just under 6 months. On this note, a huge thank you must go
to all of the Culinary Team SA sponsors that support our men and women in white – without you,
it just wouldn’t be possible.
Tiger Brands Out of Home Solutions’ Conversations with Chefs was held about two months ago,
and if the turnout was any indication, this series of talks and discussions is going to have enormous
longevity. The first topic tackled was food critics and their necessity in the hospitality industry – I
must thank all of the panellists for their insightful input into the discussion, you really brought the
debate to life.
A thank you must go to long-serving Western Cape Chairman Andy Cordier who stepped down
last month, and KZN Chairman Craig Elliott. Together with their committees, Andy and Craig
have done much for chefs in their regions. Congratulations and welcome to our new Western Cape
chairman Peter Robertson from the CTICC and KZN chairman Gunther Beissel from Eco Chef.
Culinary Regards,
Stephen Billingham
“Do something every day that you don’t want to do, this is the golden rule for acquiring the habit of doing
your duty without pain.” – Mark Twain
Published by Shout Factory
President Stephen Billingham
Publisher Jason Whitehouse - Tel: 021 556 7493
Fax: 086 617 4740
General Manager Graham Donet
Advertising Sales Jason Whitehouse
[email protected]
Finance Manager Connie Butler
Events Manager Nicholas Sarnadas
Membership Manager Jason Pitout
Editorial Sarah Marjoribanks
[email protected]
Design & Layout Shout Creative - Peter Batistich - peter@
shoutfactory.co.za; Jeanle Casarin - [email protected]
Printing Creda
Images Christoph Hoffmann; Lelani van der Merwe
Chef! is published bi-monthly by Shout Factory on behalf of
the South African Chefs Association
The South African Chefs Association
University of Johannesburg, School of Tourism & Hospitality
Tel: 011 482 7250 - Fax: 011 482 7260
[email protected] - www.saca.co.za
Disclaimer Shout Factory makes no representations about
the accuracy of the information, data, advertisements, graphics
or other content contained in any Shout Factory owned online
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not limited to the Shout Factory print and online magazine,
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notice, please visit http://shoutfactory.co.za/print-media/
SACA Patrons
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Eat better. Live better.
CHEF! Issue 28 | 1
Chef Profile
News
News
Chef! Magazin
e
is now availabl
e on
your iPad. To do
wnload
the application
to your iPad,
simply go to th
is link:
http://tinyurl.co
m/
cd5wb4p
Osumo serves Super
Tasty Superfoods
Offering healthy and delicious alternatives to fast food, Osumo
has branches in Western Cape’s Cavendish Square, Canal Walk
and Sea Point. Superfoods are foods which are packed with
nutrients such as antioxidants, enzymes, vitamins, minerals
and essential fatty acids, and incorporating these foods into
your menu can have huge benefits. So the Osumo menu now
offers a wide range of dishes with nutrition-packed goji berries,
walnuts, chia seeds and organic spirulina. Dishes include a
variety of oats, each spiked with a different superfood to suit
your mood, a hearty breakfast wrap, fajita, country sandwich,
Popeye salad, green or pink quinoa salads, stir-fry with wheat
and fat free noodles and a huge range of smoothies such as
strawberry bliss, goji blaze or vanilla chai. All of these offer
a tasty meal with a healthy nutritious superfood kick. Visit
www.osumo.co.za for more information.
Potatoes in South Africa:
Buried Treasure
Hyatt Oubaai Team to
travel to Oman
For the first time in more than a decade, the
nutritional content of the three different potato
cultivar classification categories have been analysed
for their nutritional content. The study was a
collaboration between Potatoes South Africa,
Nutri-Vation, Agricultural Research Council and the University of Pretoria,
and one potato from each cultivar was analysed and after a four month process,
the results were revealed.
Chefs James Mbovane and Zuki Mfomele
from the Hyatt Regency Oubaai Golf Resort
and Spa have been invited to the Grand Hyatt
Muscat in Oman to share their skills, knowledge
and enthusiasm of the culinary arts with their
colleagues in the East. They’ll be visiting the 5
star hotel, which is a
stunning example of
Arabian architecture
and is situated on a
pristine stretch of
beach in the capital
of the Sultanate of
Oman. Mbovane
and Mfomele will
also be taking part
in a South African
promotion
that
will allow guests to
experience South
African flavours and
cuisine.
Based on the study, the following nutrient content claims can be made for
potatoes in general: One medium sized potato (150g), cooked with skin, is
high in carbohydrates, naturally free of fat and naturally very low in sodium. It
is high in the mineral chromium. In addition, it has a potassium content that
is higher than most other vegetables and starchy foods.
However, these aren’t the only nutrients found in potatoes: “Potatoes contain
a range of vitamins, minerals and other phytochemicals. Due to laboratory
limitations, we were unable to measure all the vitamins. In addition, and in
accordance with the new labelling regulations, we can only make claims on
those vitamins and minerals that contain 15 percent or more of the NRV’s
(nutrient reference values).” For more information, visit www.potatoes.co.za.
2 | CHEF! Issue 28
Tsogo Sun
Reinvents itself
What's
Happeing...
The big news on everyone’s lips last month was
Tsogo Sun Holdings announcement that all
operating divisions will be united under one name
with one clear identity and vision – this means
that Southern Sun will now be known as Tsogo
Sun. For millions of South Africans, the names
of some of Southern Sun’s establishments conjure
up images of warm and friendly hospitality,
not realising that these hotels are all part of a
diverse company that incorporates gaming,
entertainment as well as accommodation.
From the 7 – 10 June,
join the Robertson Valley
at the Wacky Wine
Festival. Celebrating its
9th anniversary, there
will be 48 wineries
showcasing their wines
over four festive days and
each day has its own theme. You can go on ‘Seriously Wine Thursday’, ‘Wine
Up Friday’, ‘Full On Wacky Saturday’ and ‘Wine Down Sunday’. Visit www.
wackywineweekend.com to find out more information – a lot of the events need
to be pre-booked, so it’s worth checking out sooner rather than later.
“Our scale has changed and we now have a
distribution of casino and hotel products that
touches many thousands of consumers’ lives
every day through our 14 casinos, 95 hotels,
and related restaurant and entertainment
offerings. Our portfolio enables us to achieve
our aim of providing the greatest variety of
quality hospitality, entertainment and leisure
experiences,” says Marcel von Aulock, Chief
Executive Officer of Tsogo Sun.
According to Rob Collins, Chief Marketing
Officer of Tsogo Sun, the company is embarking
on a campaign to correctly profile itself. “This
will enable us to fully leverage and properly
position our key intangible assets, namely our
brands, under the proudly South African Tsogo
Sun brand.”
While the Southern Sun name will remain as
a hotel brand for premier hotels within the
portfolio, Collins explains, “The name Tsogo Sun
is unique. Tsogo in Setswana means resurrection
or new life, a term that mimics the daily rising of
the sun. In line with the strength of this name, we
have developed a group identity that will create
a clear understanding of who we are and what
we do as a group. The new logo, comprising the
Tsogo name and the Sunburst insignia taken
from the historical Southern Sun logo, visually
accentuates the company’s strength, variety,
presence and footprint, and represents a uniquely
African identity that is steeped in heritage.”
For further information, visit www.tsogosun.com.
The Brightwater Commons will be hosting the 8th
annual Oyster, Wine and Food Festival from the
2nd to the 3rd of June from 11h00 to 18h00. It
promises to be a not-to-be-missed event for oyster
lovers with 40 000 shucked oysters, 28 gourmet
food exhibitors and wines from 32 estates on offer. There's even a champagne tent
for those who love their bubbles, three top MCC estates will be showing their
wares. For more information contact The Brightwater Commons on 011 789 5052
or visit www.brightwatercommons.co.za and find them on Facebook.
Executive Chef Franc Lubbe at Mount Grace in Magaliesburg has compiled a series
of dinners that will showcase some exceptional wines accompanied by exceptional
cuisine, and guests have the opportunity to interact with the winemaker on either a
Saturday night dinner at the Rambling Vine or a Sunday lunch at Twist restaurant.
On the 23rd and 24th of June, guests can enjoy the Simonsig Estate’s wine, Jacus
Marais from Nitida will join Franc and the Team on the 28th and 29th of July, and
Van Zyl du Toit from Allee Bleue Wine Estate will be showcasing his wines on the
22nd and 23rd of September. Andrew Gunn from Iona in Elgin will be there on
the 27th and 28th of October, and Beyers Truter from Beyerskloof will finish off
the final winemaker weekend of the year on the 24th and 25th of November. The
Gourmet Evenings at Rambling Vine Restaurant are priced at R450.00 per person
while the Gourmet Sunday Lunch option is priced at R265.00.
Visit www.mountgrace.co.za for more information.
The Feast of Shiraz & Charcuterie @ Hartenberg takes place
on Saturday, 2 June 2012 from 12h00 noon until 17h00. Tickets
cost R180 per person, including food and wine tastings, are
available online at www.webtickets.co.za. For more information,
call tel: (+27)21-8652541, email: [email protected] or
visit www.hartenbergestate.com. Hartenberg Estate is situated on
the Bottelary Road off the R304 to Stellenbosch.
Check
The 2nd annual TOPS Gugulethu Wine Festival is set to
out Vergelegen
be held on the 25th and 26th of May on the rooftop of the
Wine Estate’s ne
w look
Gugulethu Square Mall and you can expect fun, glamour,
– a new tasting
room and
and over 300 great South African wines. The festival was
bistro, with a m
enu designed
by Chef Garth
co-founded by Mzoli Ngcawuzele and Lungile Mbalo
Stroebel. Visit
www.vergelegen
from Mzoli’s Place. Tickets are R80 per person per night
.co.za for
and are available online at www.webtickets.co.za or at the
more informatio
n.
door on the night. For more information go to
www.gugulethuwinefestival.co.za.
CHEF! Issue 28
26 | 3
News
Singita School of
Cooking enrols
New Students
Bunnahabhain’s New
Un-Chillfiltered
Range
The Singita School of Cooking in the
Kruger National Park is in its 5th year and
has taken in its 5th intake of young men
and women from the surrounding rural
areas that would like to train to become
chefs. All of the aspirant chefs have shown
a real passion for cooking and the school
is an example of Singita’s aspiration to
give back to the community by using the
resources at its 10 different lodges in four
iconic African destinations.
Bunnahabhain (pronounced Bū-na-havenn) means Mouth of the River, but
many refer to it as unspeakably great malt
because of its unpronounceable name.
Pierre Meintjies, decked out in a kilt in
the tartan of the distillery, recently held a
tasting of Bunnahabhain’s 12, 18 and 25
year old whiskeys at the launch of the new
un-chillfiltered range. What is chillfiltering
you might ask? It is a process that reduces
the temperature of the whiskey down to zero degrees and pushes it through filtering
machines so that it is clarified and any imperfections are removed. This process is
quite standard, but Bunnahaibhan realised that it was actually the imperfections that
added a distinct character to their whiskeys – the whiskey that was tasted in the barrel
was not the same whiskey that went into the bottle. Now that the new releases from
Bunnahaibhan are un-chillfiltered, the whiskey can become a little cloudy with a bit
of a haze in the liquid.
The nine new chef students have started
their 18-month training on-site at the
Singita Staff Village. When they complete
the course, they’ll be equipped with the
knowledge and confidence to apply for
a commis chef position in a professional
kitchen at a Singita lodge or any other lodge
or restaurant. The school was founded by
one of Singita’s chefs who dreamt of giving
back to the community through education
and training local youth to become chefs
in the Singita kitchens. The school was
opened in 2007 with the backing of the
Singita management and 5 years later they
have trained 30 chefs, 14 of which have
found permanent employment.
Caroline Burke, General Manager Singita
Kruger National Park says: ‘In remote,
rural areas equipping even one person
with a good job and sound prospects, has
a burgeoning effect on members of their
immediate family, as well as the broader
community. Besides providing a muchneeded income, these young people also
provide inspiration, energy and leadership
to their peers in under-developed areas.
At Singita we are very proud to be able to
make this contribution to the development
of people in the regions where we operate.’
Bunnahaibhan is one of the few whiskeys produced on Islay (a small Scottish island
with no fewer than 7 whiskey distilleries) that is un-peated. The distillery is right on
the edge of the sea and its water is sourced from a natural spring, and the whiskey
is held in sherry casks from Spain and bourbon casks from America. The 12 year
old whiskey is golden in colour and its palate is light with fruit and nuts, with a
malty sweetness. The finish is rich and full-bodied, and this whiskey was held in 75%
bourbon casks and 25% sherry casks. The 18 year old is a favourite amongst women
as it is sweeter in style and has a rich fruit cake flavour. Its rich golden in colour and
its aroma is of honeyed nuts, rich toffee and leathery oak aromas, and it was held in
40% sherry casks and 60% bourbon casks. The 25 year old is slightly lighter in colour
than the 18 year old and has sweet caramel dessert aromas with touches of oak and
polished leather. On the palate, one can taste sweet berries and cream that progress
into roasted nut and malt with a hint of spices. For more information, visit
www.bunnahabhain.com – it is distributed in South Africa by Distell.
Tsogo Sun Hotels Employee Survey
Tsogo Sun recently commissioned an internal survey to see if their hotel employees
were enjoying an increased job satisfaction from last year’s survey. The objective of the
research is to track improvements yearly and to solicit employee ideas in each brand,
hotel and department to discover strengths and opportunities for improvement.
The results also pinpoint areas of potential competitive advantages and provide
information about the Tsogo Sun workforce in terms of attitudes, behaviours and
performance.
The results showed an improvement from 70 in 2010 to 72.8 in 2011, and although
employees are feeling the work pressure they are pleased with the overall company
image and customer service, performance evaluation and career development
opportunities within Tsogo Sun. “Every year we look forward to the results of this
survey so that we can identify areas for improvement. At Tsogo Sun, we know that
limitless productivity comes from a challenged, empowered, excited and rewarded
workforce. The results provide a starting point for evaluating our efforts to improve
the organisation and to monitor the progress towards achieving our business
objectives,” says Graham Wood, Managing Director, Tsogo Sun Hotels.
4 | CHEF! Issue 28
Eat In Winners 2012
The 2012 winners for the annual Eat In DStv Food Network Produce Awards were announced
at the Stellenbosch Slowmarket recently. Hosted by Jenny Morris (aka The Giggling Gourmet),
the awards acknowledge the best of South Africa’s independently producers, food markets, outlets
and produce. 15 categories are judged by the judges, which include Anelde Greeff, Anna Trapido,
Abigail Donnelly, Pete Goffe-Wood, Jackie Cameron and Deon van Wyk. Each category had its
own set of criteria, but overall aspects such as taste, appearance, aroma, innovation and care for the
environment were taken into account. All categories were judged by the above panel, but the new
category for the best local food blog was voted for by the public.
Winners included Ocean’s Edge, Braeside Butchery and Piggly Wiggly in the Best Outlet category;
Wild Oats, The Food Market and Pretoria Boeremark as Best Markets; Karma Jams as Best New
Product; Earthshine’s Kale chips won the Innovation Award; Sweet Temptations toffee won the
small producer confectionery award; Quality Pickles won the Small Producer Grocery award; Oude
Bank Bakkerij won the Small Producer Bakery award; Boon Hill salad leaves won the Small Producer
Earth category; Buffalo Ridge won the Small Producer Dairy/Cheese award; Jenny’s clotted cream
won the Small Producer Dairy/Other award; the Small Producer Paddock award was won by Dargle
Duck; the Organic/Free-range award was won by Croft chicken; the Heritage award was won by
Rozendal vinegar and the best food blog title went to Nina Timm from My Easy Cooking.
HSC is Culinary
Team SA’s Staffing
Partner
The Hospitality Solutions Company
(HSC) is Culinary Team South Africa’s
latest partner, supporting them on the
road to the Culinary Olympics taking
place in Erfurt, Germany in October.
“It’s great to have the on-going support
of industry organisations such as HSC; a
staffing company that truly embodies the
spirit of Masakhane” said Team Manager,
Bruce Burns.
HSC has been appointed as the Official
Staffing Partner and will be assisting in
supplying specialist front of house and
kitchen staff that are needed with the
many team practices and dinners that
are required. The HSC team will also be
assisting with expertise on running and
managing future events. HSC sees one of
the many benefits of this arrangement to
be the skills transference from the Team to
the HSC staff at the practices, events and
skills kitchen programmes they’re involved
in. For more information on HSC, visit
www.lsc.co.za.
AFFT Launches Fundraising Recipe Book
Joburg-based children's charity Africa Food For Thought (AFFT) has recently
released a recipe book for the family, the aim of which is to raise funds to enable the
charity to buy new premises, allowing AFFT to focus on doing what they do best,
delivering food to hungry and vulnerable children. The non-profit organisation
which is run by volunteers runs feeding projects at eleven schools and nine crèches,
feeding more than 11 000 children a day. AFFT aims to provide lunches for primary
schools in informal settlements such as Soweto, Slovoville and Kagiso.
“During our work with these schools, we came to the realisation that some of the
children were particularly vulnerable, having been orphaned by AIDS and often
living in child or granny-headed households,” says AFFT co-founder and CEO
Debbie Higgs. “To make matters worse, these children are often not receiving any
grant or aid from the government, whether it be through ignorance, fear of being
institutionalised, or a lack of documentation such as birth certificates.”
AFFT supports 70 of these households which have been identified by the school by
supplying them with additional monthly food parcels that consist of supplemental
foods that are specifically-designed to enhance the immune system, in addition to
basics such as tea, sugar, starch, seasonings, cooking oil, tinned goods, jams and
spices. The recipe book is part of AFFT's bid to raise between R800 000 and R1.2
million so that they can buy a home large enough to store the more than 3 tons of
food that is currently distributed by the charity.
The recipe books are available for purchase at R150
each, and if each are sold the charity will have made
an R80 000 start to raising the funds that are so
desperately needed. The recipe books contain family
favourites that range from starters to mains, desserts
and breakfasts, and have come from local families.
Anyone interested in purchasing the recipe book can
contact Africa Food For Thought on (011) 472 5727
or 084 505 9020 or log on to www.afft.org.za.
CHEF! Issue 28 | 5
News
New Restaurant for Craighall Park
“Warm & Glad” is the quirky name of Craighall Park’s latest eating and meeting
place. Found on Jan Smuts Avenue in Johannesburg, the restaurant is packed with
food, media, culture and coffee. “I figured if I was going to spend all my time here, I
wanted a space filled with things that I like; a space I wanted to be in,” says Jonathan
Shaw, entrepreneur and owner of “Warm & Glad”.
The menu includes dishes such as Granola (R40), Scrambled
eggs served with chouriço (R45), a Chouriço Butty (R45),
Vietnamese Chicken Salad with free range chicken (R50),
Caprese Salad (R50) and a range of sandwiches such
as Honey and Soy Fillet Steak (R60), Camembert and
Mortadella (R35), Gorgonzola and Preserved Figs (R40),
and Mozarella, Camembert and Caramelised Onions
(R40). Visit www.warmandglad.com for more information.
Oliver Cattermole joins
Le Franschhoek Hotel
Le Franschhoek Hotel and Spa’s new executive chef, Oliver
Cattermole, brings with him over 10 years of experience in the
culinary trade and is bringing an exciting new global flavour
to the hotel.
Now that Oliver has returned to Franschhoek, he hopes that Le Franschhoek Hotel and
Spa’s restaurant Dish will compete against the best of them, and guests can look forward
to an intimate dining experience at Le Verger Restaurant, set in an orchard. “Working in
the wine-lands requires food that is a little rustic but still elegant. In other words, perfect!
My food style is modern British/European but in the Cape we have the added advantage
of a massive variety of locally sourced products as well as the freedom to grow a large
number of healthy, fresh produce on the estate,” says Oliver referring to Le Franschhoek’s
extensive herb gardens, lemon trees and abundance of fennel.
InterContinental Johannesburg OR
Tambo wins Responsible Business Week
Out of a total of 250 entrants in the Responsible Business Week awards, the
InterContinental Johannesburg OR Tambo was judged as one of the best examples
of commitment to geotourism by National Geographic. In October 2011, all
InterContinental Hotels globally implemented activities as part of Responsible
Business Week.
At the InterContinental Johannesburg OR Tambo, staff assisted with the rehabilitation
of the Korsman Bird Sanctuary Conservancy in Benoni. This involved
removing trees that endangered the ecosystem, repairing benches,
Visit
clearing litter and installing new bins, as well as planting fruit
eith.
www.pruel
trees at Oliver’s Village which is a unique village to create a
d out more
sustainable way of life for AIDS orphans. “The staff at the
co.za to fin
entic 7 day
th
au
an
hotel worked tirelessly and relentlessly to make a difference
t
u
abo
erience in
p
ex
t
ar
to their environment and the lives of other people. I am
d
food an
ary
n
li
cu
A
M
proud to be part of such a winning team!” says Pierre Delfau,
Italy at AL
mbria.
U
General
Manager, InterContinental Johannesburg O R Tambo
in
l
o
o
h
sc
Airport Hotel.
6 | CHEF! Issue 26
Franschhoek Kitchen
welcomes New Chef
Holden Manz Wine Estate’s signature
restaurant, the Franschhoek Kitchen,
welcomes a new chef, Cheyne Morrisby.
The menu is shaped around the abundant
produce produced on the wine estate,
coming from its vegetable garden, fruit
orchard and chicken coop, and Cheyne
is planning some exciting new culinary
adventures for visitors to the restaurant.
The well-travelled chef discovered his love
of cooking during his national service in the
South African Navy and has since worked at
some of Cape Town’s finest restaurants. He
has worked in London (cooking for the likes
of Kate Moss, Robbie Williams and Kylie
Minogue) and has travelled to Asia. Some
of the dishes that he plans to add to the
menu include Roast Pork Belly served with
potato and coconut croquette and a duo of
sauces (spring onion, ginger and rice wine
purée, and a red kimchi sauce), as well as a
dish of crispy duck served with watermelon,
crushed cashews and sweet miso. There will
also be a host of tapas dishes on the menu.
New Chairmen for
KZN and Western Cape
Congratulations to the newly elected
chairmen of the KwaZulu-Natal and
Western Cape South African Chefs
Association Committees, Gunther Beissel
and Peter Robertson respectively. Gunther
Beissel is the Executive Chef and Director
for Eco Chef – a company that offers
sustainable foodservice, products, training
and education with US and EU business
alliances. He has previously worked at the
Durban Country Club, the International
Convention Centre in Durban and the Lost
City. Peter Robertson is the Executive Chef
of the Cape Town International Convention
Centre and has previously worked at the
Elangeni Hotel, Umhlanga Sands Hotel,
Lufthansa and Sky Chefs.
We wish Gunther and Peter the best of
luck with their next two years as chairmen
and would like to thank Craig Elliott and
Andy Cordier as they step down from their
positions as chairmen for their dedication
and hard work.
taste of the world
recipe competition
in association with
WIN A TRIP OF A LIFETIME!
TO LONDON & IRELAND
Calling all working
chefs and student chefs!
Pritchitts, the dairy experts, have teamed up
with the South African Chef’s Association
and Del Trade to launch the Taste of the
World Recipe Competition. Win an
amazing trip for two to London and Ireland
where you can take in the sights in style.
Furthermore the winning chef will also win
an additional R20,000 for their kitchen unit.
All you need to do is create a main, starter
or dessert, so put your chef skills to the
test! Remember your creative recipe must
contain one of these fabulous Pritchitts
products.
Find out more at:
www.pritchitts.com/taste-of-the-world
Plus
R20,000
for winners
kitchen
If you would like to know more about the Pritchitts product range contact Del Trade on 0861 114 790
www.pritchitts.com
CHEF! Issue 29 | 7
Q&A
&
Q
Q&A
In this section of the magazine we ask our panel
of experts to answer a number of questions that
chefs around the country have sent in to us.
Win!
Submit your questions to Chef!
Magazine and you could win three
bottles of The Old Man’s Blend
from Groote Post Vineyards.
Email [email protected]
with your question.
Our Panel of Experts
Philip Meyer
Chief Executive Officer of the
LSC Group
(www.lsc.co.za or 011 504 8300)
Karin Kok
Training Manager Institutional
at Ecolab
(www.ecolab.com or 011 578 5000)
Shirley Fawke
JHB Branch Manager/Senior
Consultant of Hotelstaff
Recruitment Company
(www.hotel-staff.co.za or
011 782 3002)
Adele Stiehler
Head Chef of Prue Leith Chefs
Academy
(www.prueleith.co.za or
012 654 5203)
Q: I have been unfairly dismissed and the CCMA has referred
me to the bargaining council, which my former establishment then said would not be able
to deal with the situation as it did not belong to that bargaining council. Do all restaurants and catering concerns
automatically need to belong to such a council? Who will help me with my unfair dismissal if they refuse to attend the
council’s hearing and can I approach the CCMA again with my problem if I keep getting sent to the bargaining council?
A: The Bargaining Council for Restaurant, Catering and Allied Trades (BCRCAT) is a collective body made up of unions and
employer organisations and play an important role in the resolution of disputes for the Restaurant and Catering Industry. It does
however only have jurisdiction over cases originating in the general Gauteng area (a detailed list of areas is available on www.bcrcat.
co.za) and thus the CCMA would be correct in referring your matter to this body should you fall within this jurisdiction. I would
therefore strongly suggest that you do refer your matter to the BCRCAT should you have been advised to do so by the CCMA. In
terms of your employer recognising the authority of this body; The BCRCAT is governed by a collective agreement as promulgated
by the Department of Labour and is a legal recognised body. Should your employer fail to attend any hearings at the BCRCAT
then they would be in contempt and could lose their case by default and an award may be issued in your favour. Any award issued
by the Bargaining Council is as legal as an award issued by the CCMA, so an employer must comply. Philip Meyer
Q: What criteria are looked at when judging personal hygiene
in the kitchen?
A: The reference for this is from Government Regulation 918. Staff should be in suitable protective clothing – proper, clean and neat
uniform with long sleeves, including proper head covering that covers all hair, proper footwear (safety shoes) and a suitable apron.
The clothing should be so designed that it cannot contaminate the food, be clean and neat when such a suitable trained person begins
to handle the food and stay in a clean condition during the handling of the food. Staff should have clean hands with short, clean
fingernails and no jewelry (no earrings, bracelets or rings except a plain wedding ring is acceptable) and no nail polish. Any ethnic
adornments around the wrists should be suitably covered.
On the premises, suitable hand washing facilities must be provided with cold and/or hot water for the washing of hands together with
a supply of soap (or other cleaning agents) and clean, disposable hand-drying material or other hand-cleaning facilities or hand-drying
equipment. The policies that must be in place are treatment of illness and injury and proper hand-washing procedure and policy. Any
person working on the food premises should be adequately trained in food hygiene by an inspector or any other suitable person.
Karin Kok
8 | CHEF! Issue 28
A
&
Q: What are the best websites
and resources to use when
looking for a job both locally
and internationally?
A: To help you find a position in the Hospitality Industry
the best website is www.Lodgestaff.co.za. Both agencies and
companies directly advertise positions. It is one of the better
resources because you can submit your CV directly to a
position. It caters to the entire industry and related suppliers
too. You simply attach your own CV to a response.
Oil Care Tips
Be aware of websites that allow you to submit your CV to
a database. This is often searchable by everyone and your
current employer could find your CV online. Choose the
option that many of these websites give you, to be searched
by agencies only. The most interesting international website
is www.hcareers.com. You will find positions of every level
advertised on this site. You do need to be sure you have the
criteria to fit the job as you compete with thousands of chefs
internationally. You can simply google chef jobs and submit
your CV to any of the many sites that come up, but be aware
of flooding the market with your CV.
Even the good old local newspaper, the Star or Argus often
advertise chefs’ positions. You can submit your CV to
an agency but remember that they make their money by
assisting the client, so they are only able to assist you when
they have a vacancy suitable to your background. The two
I would recommend in our industry are Hotelstaff and
Hickmore Recruitment – both are well-recognised and they
work with bigger groups as well as small independents,
restaurant groups, suppliers, etc. However, there are many
other agencies available. Shirley Fawke
Q: What can I do to increase
the shelf life of fresh items?
A: There are unfortunately no secret recipes to increase
the shelf life of fresh ingredients. The answer lies in proper
management:
•
Buy quality ingredients from a reputable supplier with
refrigerated delivery vehicles (Only accept quality).
• Order fresh ingredients daily, don’t stock up.
• Don’t break the cold chain – store ingredients
immediately in the fridge once delivered.
• Make sure that the FIFO (first in, first out) system is
followed when packing new stock.
• Remove unnecessary packaging and any blemished
ingredients when storing.
• Remove herbs from plastic, wash and trim immediately,
then place in containers with a drip tray or cloth at the
bottom.
• Remove meat from bloody packaging onto trays.
• Don’t let ingredients stand outside the fridge for longer
than necessary during preparation.
Adele Stiehler
CHEF! Issue 26
29 | 9
Flavour of the month
Flavour of the Month
Celebrate
National
Macaron
Day on
the 31st o
f May wit
h
decadent
macarons
for Asara
Estate.
A decadent trifecta of butter, salt and sugar
Preserves from Stellenbosch
Salted Caramel Sauce
Chaloner Fine Products
Serve on ice cream, drizzle on pastries such as brownies or
pair with apple-based desserts such as apple tart or
just baked apples.
You can find industrious Perry Chaloner in the
beautiful Stellenbosch mountains on the Falcon’s Crest
farm, creating and developing his unique range of tapenades,
olives, marmalades and jams. Using mostly fresh produce from
the farm which are primarily organically fertilised, there is no
ingredient substitution and all ingredients are sourced locally. In
fact, many of the products in the range are produced in limited
volumes to avoid compromising quality and every effort has
been taken to make the process as sustainable as possible.
2 cups sugar | 1 cup water | 1 cup cream
4 tablespoons butter | 2 teaspoons flaked salt
•Place the sugar and water into a small pot.
•Gently heat the mixture whilst stirring and allow the sugar
to dissolve completely before allow the mixture to boil.
•Once the sugar has dissolved bring the syrup up to the
boil and brush down the sides of the pot with water and
a pastry brush.
•Allow this mixture to boil (continue to brush down the
sides of the pot) until it reaches a deep golden brown
colour.
•Remove from the heat and whisk in the cream, butter and salt
•Store in a sterilized jar.
Products include plum chutney, raspberry vinegar, plum and
onion preserve, Seville orange marmalade, strawberry and
mint jam, blueberry, raspberry and lavender preserve, apricot
preserve, olive and almond tapenade, olive and chilli preserve,
olive and sundried tomato tapenade and traditional tapenade.
Visit www.chaloner.co.za for more information.
Musty and Delicious
Moskonfyt
Patricia
ntly
L
de ille rece
ok,
n
dt’s ew-lo
opened Lin
late
better choco
bigger and
e
th Cape
boutique at
studio and
ge, De
estyle Villa
Quarter Lif
k ‘n Mix
Expect a Pic ent,
Waterkant.
m
ip
ocolate equ
counter, ch
d
an
eam
Lindt ice cr
torials.
tu
te
la
choco
10 | CHEF! Issue 28
29
Kloovenburg’s Moskonfyt is a
delicious addition to the kitchen,
bringing its unique taste to a number
of different applications. This South
African delicacy is traditionally eaten
on fresh, homemade bread – eaten
with a knife and fork after it soaks
into the grain. When grapes are
pressed and fermented, one of the byproducts is grapemust. Kloovenburg
then reduces the grapemust in a
process that doesn’t use any additives,
resulting in a slightly watery syrup
that is pungently flavoured and can
be used where one would normally
use balsamic vinegar. Eat it with
shavings of gruyere and a green,
herby salad, with ice cream and
nuts, or with fresh figs and cheese.
Kloovenburg’s Moskonfyt retails for
about R52.
Milk’s leap towards immortality
Parmigiano - Reggiano
By Adele Stiehler
When Samuel Pepys saw the fire of London approaching in
1666 he made haste to save his most prized possessions. He
dug a hole and placed in it “my parmazan cheese as well as my
wine.” The world’s love for this Italian hard cheese, originating
in the Middle Ages, has not changed much as recent research
shows that Parmigiano-Reggiano is the most pilfered food item
in Italian retail stores. The industry also battles with cheese
mafia hijacking delivery trucks or breaking into producer’s
maturation rooms, stealing aged cheeses that will fetch high
prices. This may be a small scale artisan industry but the King
of cheese plays a notable role in the Italian economy.
Why is the kitchen’s most versatile
cheese, so expensive? The cheese
that is “never manufactured,
always handmade” is still
made according to tradition
and thanks to the quality
controlling Consortium and
PDO (Protected Designation of
Origin) status we can be fairly
certain that the cheese we enjoy
today is similar to the “mountain
made of grated parmigiano
cheese” that Giovanni Boccaccio
referred to in Decameron in
1370.
Food Hero
Livingseeds
We chat with Sean from Livingseeds, SA’s
largest heirloom and heritage vegetable
seed supplier, supplying over 400 different
varieties of vegetables to chefs and home
gardeners across the country and specialising
in the tasty and unusual vegetables that
aren’t available commercially.
Livingseeds is necessary because with
heirloom varieties, taste and culinary use
are often of first importance and everything
else takes a back seat. We have tomatoes
that are grown only for sauces and others
that are paste tomatoes... and yes there is a
difference. As we grow the majority of the
seed we sell ourselves, we dedicate much
of our seed collection to the best varieties
for the culinary experience. Often these
varieties are not the best producers of crops
weight wise, but the flavours, textures and
visual appeal is unmatched. Our varieties
are a direct link into history and without
these important vegetable delights we
reduce our eating experience to simple
peas, carrots and cauliflower, when instead
McCain’s
got a slic
k,
colourfu
l
n
ew
look – ch
eck out th
eir
packagin
g
preparati with more
on inform
ation
and entic
ing food
imagery.
The characteristic elements are
the use of raw milk, no additives,
use of natural fermentation
agents, and a minimum aging
period of 12 months. Every
part of this process is skillfully
managed by a cheese master that
works 365 days a year as production
never stops because the raw milk cannot
be preserved. Local tales suggest that
cheese masters spend their money on
fancy cars as they can’t go on holiday!
Most cheeses are aged for 18 months
or two summers resulting in a rich,
fruity and nutty aroma and a crumbly
texture with characteristic tyrosine
crystals.
Locally parmesan is used enthusiastically on
pastas or in salads and sauces, but Italians also serve it
as a table cheese and now that the 24 and 36 month matured
Parmigiano-Reggiano are available on our supermarket
shelves, we really should follow the Italian example. Not only
is the cheese loved for its unique flavour, but the Italians also
serve it to their children, elderly and athletes as it is highly
nutritious with a unique concentration of protein, calcium,
phosphorus and vitamins and is highly digestible.
With our eye on food cost we are often tempted to opt for
cheaper imitations, but every time I set foot in that trap I am
certain I can taste the lack of tradition, human passion, terroir
– the typicality. There is only one parmesan.
we could be eating Oregon Sugar Pod peas,
Purple Dragon carrots and Sicilian Violet
cauliflower. Even the names evoke ideas of
tastier food.
We only supply seed, so the chefs that
use our vegetables will also need to have
green fingers, not just sticky fingers. Some
of the chefs that use our seed include
Jodi-Ann Pearton from The Food Design
Agency, Head Chef Simoné Rossouw and
Sous Chef Stefan Danz from the world
renowned Babylonstoren guest farm in the
Drakenstein valley. Babylonstoren plants
a massive collection of our seed and they
allow their guests to pick their own veggies
from their gardens.
Our best selling items vary with the
seasons, and range from Egyptian Pink
garlic, Strawberry popcorn, Purple
Dragon Carrots, Black Krim tomatoes,
Yard Long beans, Sicilian Violet
cauliflower and sweet little Pickling
cucumbers, however every season
has its favourites, we are continually
growing new varieties for chefs and
home gardeners to experiment with.
Catch
di
RoyalMnan
bald,
o
K
n
chefs Marti
emans and
Jeff Schuer
ng
malo on Bri
Daniel Nxu
at
et
-N
n Kyk
and Braai o
.
ay
d
y Fri
19h30 ever
CHEF! Issue 26 | 11
Flavour of
the month
Chef
Profile
On the Shelf…
The Table Comes First
Adam Gopnik | Phaidon | R299
Subtitled ‘Family, France and the Meaning of Food’, this
collection of Adam Gopnik essays beautifully illustrates the
history and culture of food as well as its meaning in our lives.
Adam looks at the history of restaurants and their beginning
in Paris, France, and then travels to the culinary adventurers
in Barcelona, Spain. These days people are obsessed with food,
with chefs, with the ethics that
surround food, its
movements and food
photography basically
food (porn). What
many have forgotten
along the way is that
which Adam Gopnik
illustrates
in
this
collection of essays
– that what is on the
table does not matter
as much as what takes
place around the table,
the families and friends
who gather there to break
bread. In fact, the title of
the book is a quote from
chef Fergus Henderson:
“I don’t understand how
a young couple can begin
life by buying a sofa or a
television, don’t they know
that the table comes first?”
The Art
of French
Baking
Ginette Mathiot
Phaidon | R424
Learn how to make
pastries and dishes
such as brioches,
choux buns, éclairs and
soufflés the traditional
way in this fantastic,
comprehensive guide
to
baking
French
classics. Labelled as the
definitive guide, the
recipe book contains over
350 authentic and simple
recipes that are easy to
use. The Art of
French Baking draws from two of Ginette Mathiot’s classic
books on pastries which were published in the 1930’s. The
recipes have been enhanced and updated somewhat by the
English editorial team that translated the content for this,
the latest, edition but the recipes and their accompanying
illustrations evoke the charm and rustic authenticity that
comes from traditional French baking.
Bill’s Everyday Asian
Bill Granger| Penguin |
Bill Granger has put together an exceptional collection of Asian recipes
that really capture the bold, lively flavours that characterise this style of
cooking. Being Australian, the chef has naturally had far more exposure
to this cuisine than many of us have had. Asian cuisine is marked by
fresh and colourful ingredients, zingy flavours that pack a punch and
dishes that are quick and simple to put together. Bill has given traditional
recipes, that he’s come across a quick, everyday makeover that suits
consumers busy lives, so expect recipes that have filtered and produced
the best that the cuisine has to offer. This is a great book to add to the
collection if you’re looking for interesting ways to use Asian ingredients
in everyday applications. On the menu is spa-style poached chicken with
sesame bean salad, lamb cutlets with satay sauce, crying tiger beef fillet with
chilli dipping sauce, and Japanese crumbed pork cutlet with cabbage salad.
Bill’s version of Bibimbap (Korean dish with steak in a sweet marinade with
eggs and rice), barbecued corn with miso or chilli-coriander glaze, tofu and
spring onion omelettes with soy-tomato sauce and mango and sticky rice.
12 | CHEF! Issue 28
29
How To
Prepare Flat Fish
1. Trim the side fins with a pair of scissors
2. Remove the skin by pulling gently but firm away from you.
Use a little salt on your fingers to get a firm grip on the skin
3. Using a flexible fillet-ting knife cut down the centre of the
fish and then angle your knife first to the left of the centre
bone and then to the right. Keeping the knife as close to the
bone as possible. Flip the fish over and repeat the process
4. Pat dry and arrange the fillets skin side up (shinny side up)
5. Spread the farce evenly and roll up fillets
6. Start at the tail and roll to the head of each fillet
7. Make sure that all the paupiettes are even
Paupiettes of Sole
Farce:
• 150g hake, skinned
• 1 egg white, beaten lightly
• 75 ml thick cream
• Salt and pepper
Paupiette:
• 1 sole, filleted
• water, for poaching
• Lemon juice or white wine
Preheat oven at 160°C. Prepare farce by passing hake through
a drum sieve, over an ice bain-marie. Gradually add egg white
to fish, incorporating gently. Add cream and seasoning. Spread
farce on the skinned side of the sole fillets and roll up to form
paupiettes. Place in a lightly buttered dish and add a little water
acidulated with lemon juice or white wine. Cover with cartouche
and poach for 20 - 30 minutes. Assemble plate by placing three
paupiettes each on fondant potatoes, finish with warm asparagus
salad and hollandaise sauce.
Recipe and Methods supplied by the Institute of Culinary Arts
with photographs taken by Kelly Zetler. Visit www.icachef.co.za or
phone (021) 885 1414.
CHEF! Issue 28
29 | 13
opinion
Ghost Writers
in the Sky
W
hat do you know about the world’s first cookbook?
You can probably tell me who was the first man
on the moon, who first discovered America and
possibly who first ran the four minute mile, but who wrote the
world’s first cookbook? I only ask the question because recently
the subject of the authorship of cookbooks had many of our
celebrity chefs foaming at the mouth following an article in the
New York Times by Julia Mosley entitled ‘I was a Cookbook
Ghost Writer’.
Well, consensus of opinion credits the world’s first cookbook
to a fella called Apicius - Marcus Gavius Apicius to be precise,
who served under Augustus and Tiberius as a culinary expert.
But the problem with consensus implies that there may have
been other contenders and indeed there were. There was Caius
Apicius, also something of a gourmand and of course Caelius
Apicius, no laggard in the culinary department. Marcus enjoyed
living well and was known for his extravagant sauces and
dishes - flamingo and nightingale tongues were no strangers to
his table, not to mention camel heels and stuffed sterile sow’s
womb. But was he the author of the world’s first cookbook, De
Re Coquinaria?
Here’s the rub - he lived in the 1st century and strangely
enough his cookbook only appeared in the 4th century, quite a
trick and definitely the very first known example of a cookbook
being ghosted, albeit posthumously. This rather neat little scam
has been copied by celebrity chefs to this very day; ghost writers
complete the book and the celebrity writes the intro and signs
the books on the national tour - will the real Apicius stand up
please? It seems the world has an insatiable appetite for the
next “modern twist on an old favourite” by our ever smiling
TV chefs. I reckon if it’s an old favourite then bloody well
leave it alone and if you feel an overwhelming desire to educate
people about food then why not contribute some of your time
to people who really want to learn about cooking - our college
students, the future of the industry.
A quick review purely of the major English speaking markets
of the USA, the United Kingdom and Australia reveals that a
minimum of 3 000 new cookery books are published every year
– 3 000 per year, that’s nearly 60 new English language recipe
books per week - how many ‘great new recipes’ is that? Add to
that the hundreds of thousands of magazines, newspapers etc.
that are also publishing ‘great new recipes’ and you begin to
wonder where the hell they all come from?
Well I can answer that - 99% of them don’t come from
anywhere, they just keep going round and round on the great
culinary sushi belt neatly packed before being plucked up by
the researchers of yet another new cookbook. Why churn out
more and more reworked recipe books? That’s also quite simple,
it’s an industry and neither Jamie nor Gordo nor Rachel Ray
nor any of the others are really necessary because they don’t
create, develop, test, cook, write, photograph and edit all the
recipes anyway. Any smiling flavour of the month can be affixed
to any collection of home economist recipes and you’re assured
of another hit, a bit like the endless crap churned out by studio
boy bands.
“A minimum of 3 000 new cookery books are published
every year – 3 000 per year, that’s nearly 60 new English
language recipe books per week - how many ‘great new
recipes’ is that?”
With extensive catering experience both locally and abroad, Brian McCune is a World Association
of Chefs Societies (WACS) accredited judge and has held the position of Culinary Team SA
Captain and then Manager. Together with his wife Teresa, he currently owns and operates the Food
Biz in Cape Town and you can find his culinary musings on http://kitschnzinc.blogspot.com.
14 | CHEF! Issue 29
Support
the Local Supplier
W
e all know we should be
supporting the small, local
farmer – but how many of us
actually take heed of the cry? Conscientious
farmers who consider the environment and
offer professional service are an inspiration.
Their enthusiasm and desire to improve
South African produce are motivating. Over
the years I have been fortunate to meet
many wonderful people in the hospitality
industry including my suppliers whose
personalities and moving stories thrill me.
I challenge you to get to know the area in
which you live. With an enquiring mind
visit the farms; listen to foodie conversations;
shop at the farmers’ market and local farm
stalls. Taste, ask questions, and get to the
root of ingredients. Meet the baker, cheesemaker and farmer behind the various
products you use, and ask to see the methods
adopted. This ensures an understanding of
the process and a different eating experience.
You will be able to retell interesting stories to
guests, friends and family over the next meal.
My regular outings to visit suppliers are
exhilarating and educational. Getting out of
the kitchen, pulling on my gumboots, and
heading across KwaZulu-Natal’s Midlands
with pen and paper in hand is my kind of
day out with the team.
Arriving at Chrissie’s farmhouse in Eston,
just outside of Richmond, is overwhelming
in every aspect. Her home is a cheese
museum filled with items such as an 1820’s
Gouda press that is still in working order,
over 50 cheese Victorian or Art Deco dishes
and large Stilton bells. Chrissie has been
manufacturing boutique cheeses on her farm
with her herd of Ayrshire cows for over 25
years, and produces Cheddar-based cheese,
Stilton in season and some soft varieties of
Brie. Her determination is inspirational.
Her produce is world class, winning silver
in the London Cheese Awards. The heads
of cheese, which she refers to as landmines,
are electric on the palate and showcase
her eccentric personality. Her enthusiasm
is contagious and I appreciate her cheese
more because I know Chrissie the person,
her background and her cheese-making
processes.
Sue’s farm, Wayfarer Trout, is in the heart
of the Midlands and, having the utmost
respect for my car, I take a very slow drive
along gravel roads to her farm. At the
end of the drive, one is greeted by a lush,
picture-perfect haven with a striking reedand-lily-filled dam and the Brookland’s
pristine waters run through the property.
It’s clear why these trout look and taste so
good. In this environment and with water
temperatures that remain below 24°C,
conditions are ideal. Wayfarer Trouts are
perfectly filleted, pin-boned and tastefully
presented and visiting this farm has raised
my level of appreciation for the product. I
enjoy cooking for guests who know about
food and wine so it stands to reason that
suppliers must be grateful to be supplying
chefs who appreciate the effort spent on
developing perfect produce.
Dean and Serene, mother and son, are the
proud owners of Dargle Ducks in Dargle.
Going to their farm is an education and
puts most farms to shame. The simplicity,
and their having accomplished going back
to what really matters, is motivating. They
call their ducks ‘open range’ because they are
free to roam day and night. The feed, which
includes sunflowers, mealies, cabbages,
cauliflowers, broccoli, spinach, wheat, rye
grass, beans and kikuya is grown specifically
for the ducks. The ‘good life’ is seen in every
plump duck breast that is deboned in our
kitchen. The proportions of fat to meat are
exceptional; the size and tenderness notable.
Search for the best possible ingredients your
money can buy, be it for home or restaurant
cooking. I always say I’ll never serve a guest
something that I would not serve my parents
- the two people I never want to disappoint.
It is a fact that the more interest we take
in the products we use, the better quality
ingredients we will have to work with. I
suggest we focus on promoting the local
suppliers in our rich and resourceful country.
I would like to see more locally-driven
menus highlighting small and large local
suppliers. It’s an exciting time for us as
lovers of food. If we stand together we can
carve the direction of food by educating the
public.
"Getting out of the kitchen, pulling
on my gumboots, and heading across
KwaZulu-Natal’s Midlands with
pen and paper in hand is my kind of
day out with the team.”
Jackie Cameron is the executive chef of Hartford House in KwaZulu-Natal’s Midlands, voted one
of South Africa’s Top 20 restaurants in the Eat Out Awards. Jackie is also a judge in the annual
Eat In awards, which recognises small South African producers. Visit www.hartfordhouse.co.za.
CHEF! Issue 29 | 15
opinion
You don’t have to be Mad,
but it Helps
I
was incensed! Not just slightly miffed,
but mad as a snake. A well-known
company turned down my candidate
following three in-depth interviews because
she ‘failed’ a personality profile test. You
would imagine that this well-qualified lady
must have a major personality disorder, or
at least a large enough defect to warrant
overriding the judgement of the General
Manager, F&B Manager, HR manager and
three previous employers.
social networks is like or dislike, follow or
unfollow. We favour easy conclusions and
would rather reject than accept a person
if there is a modicum of doubt. We also
rely on technology too much. Computers
are logical, unemotional machines and we
would rather trust their uncomplicated
conclusions than our own rather befuddled
instincts. Hence the increasing use of
personality profiles in employment
decisions.
The test took 30 minutes to fill in, the
results punched quickly into an online
form and voila! The computer says no!
A talented, qualified and hardworking
hotelier’s career was defined by a microchip
programed by some clever psychologist
with a double barrelled name.
My beef with these tests is that they should
be used in conjunction with a thorough
interview and reference checking process
and not as a replacement for this. The
personality test should be a guideline to
assist the interviewer when the conclusions
of the test can form part of the questioning
process that may assist in identifying
weaknesses and strengths. It stands to
reason that an over-reliance on these tests
can lead to as many bad employment
decisions as good ones if not used correctly.
The conclusion of the test - she is ‘all talk
and no action’. That was the reason not
to employ? I was floored at this diagnosis
‘all talk’. How many people attending
interviews have tried really hard to impress
the employer? I reckon she was simply
selling herself. I would have expected at
least a ‘borderline personality disorder’ as
a justification but, no, she talks too much.
This brings up the debate as to whether
personality profiles and other types of preemployment psychometrics are relevant for
the hospitality industry.
We humans are a funny bunch. It’s in our
DNA to shove people into convenient
personality boxes. It’s only natural and
makes it easier for us to define who is a
friend or foe. Our culture in the age of
The hospitality industry is home to many
colourful personalities. It's what makes
each hotel or restaurant unique. It's not just
the beautiful surroundings and décor that
guests come to experience it is the character
of a venue which is defined by the people
we employ. No one wants to be greeted at
the door of his favourite restaurant by the
bank manager or the accountant. They
want a flamboyant personality who makes
them feel entertained and welcome.
but if his food is pulling in the great reviews
and the cash, is it not worth tolerating
a soupçon of madness? I would venture
to suggest that chefs in particular have a
number of endemic personality defects.
As a recruiter I want a chef to be antisocial
enough to closet himself for hours in a hot
kitchen. Narcissistic enough to crave the
public adoration at the end of a successful
service. Masochistic enough to work for 16
hours and come back to do the same the
next day. Obsessive compulsive enough to
produce the perfect dish one hundred times
with the same delicious result.
In fact, are these very “disorders” not
the perfect profile for a chef? Yes, I want
my chefs to be served hot with talent,
passionate with a reasonable dollop of
madness!
To those clever psychologists who get
rich on designing personality tests, please
design a unique one for the hospitality
industry? You see we are different from the
rest of society. Truth is most of our great
personalities in hotels would probably
fail the existing tests. We don’t want to
employ conventional personalities; we don’t
mind our employees being a bit loco. You
see, you don’t have to be mad to work in
hospitality but it sure helps.
"I want my chefs to be served hot
with talent, passionate with a
reasonable dollop of madness!"
Really talented people are not easy to
manage. A great chef can be a challenge,
Stephen Hickmore not only runs Hickmore Recruitment, but he is also an associate of the
Hospitality Solutions Company (HSC), a prominent supplier of staff to 5 star hotels and
hospitality industry in Johannesburg. Stephen can be reached on www.hospitality.co.za or
[email protected].
16 | CHEF! Issue 29
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Training
1000 Hills
Chefs School
With the school motto of Attitude is Everything,
this KwaZulu-Natal chef school is producing fine
chefs from its beautiful base of the Valley of 1000
Hills, 45km outside of Durban. When asked about
the gorgeous location of the school, Principal
Sharmain Dixon (or Chef Dixi as she is known)
says, “We’re in the country overlooking a thousand
hills, cows walking past, monkeys on the property,
unbelievable bird life! This is our own piece of
paradise without distractions.”
The school believes that a good attitude is probably the
single most important thing that chefs need to make it in the
hospitality industry. Lecturers work hard to instill this work
ethic in their students during their time spent at the school.
Students are instructed on a totally practical level and the school
doesn’t believe in using demonstrations to teach students.1000
Hills Chefs School’s approach is that in order for students to
remember what they have learnt properly they need to have
done it themselves. The hands-on method of teaching restricts
the sizes of the class, allowing only 10 students per class so that
each receive intense instruction. Says Chef Dixi, “We teach
in practicals only, even the theory we do practically.We teach
individuals not groups of students as there is no single person
who is the same as another person therefore students need to be
taught individually. We believe in visual learning.”
18 | CHEF! Issue 26
Chef Dixi has been training young students to become chefs for the past 26 years and
her methods have stood the test of time, with many of her past students working as
leaders in their field. The school incorporates the City & Guilds Food Preparation
and Culinary Arts Diploma and the City & Guilds Pastry Diploma as the first year
option. The school feels that pastry is an essential art for all chefs, and this is why the
school combines the two diplomas. It also means that students wishing to do only the
first year course leave 1000 Hills Chefs School with the necessary skills to tackle any
culinary challenge.
The second year course option is the City & Guilds Advanced Pastry Diploma which
tackles a high level of pastry instruction and is for students wishing to pursue a career
as a pastry chef. Second year students are also instructed in the art of cheese-making
and charcuterie. The school has its own micro-brewery and this also forms part of the
second year course as students are taught to make bottle-conditioned real ales. This
can act as a separate career path on its own and is an amazing skill to be able to learn definitely a first for South African culinary schools.
The school has the proud record of having won the Unilever Food Solutions Junior
Chef of the Year Competition for the past four years, with the 1000 Hills Chefs
School hot kitchen lecturer Jade van der Spuy carrying the current title. The school
students are encouraged to enter culinary competitions as the school believes it is a
good way to grow students’ confidence and teach them to grow as individuals. Chef
Dixi says that, “Our students learn to be competitive from day one. In order to excel
in life you need to push yourselves at all times and take yourself out of your comfort
zone. All staff compete as well to set good examples to the students. We also get to
socialise with other schools and create healthy competition nationally.”
1000 Hills Chefs School believes that chefing as a career choice makes a lot of sense
with jobs on offer all over the world and with food playing a vital role in any tourismrelated business.
1000 Hills Chefs School
Past students include Shaun Munroe, Chris Brayshay (Young Chef Rising Star of Scotland
2010) and Jade van der Spuy.
Tel: (031) 777 1566 | Email: [email protected]
CHEF! Issue 26 | 19
Career
Off-Site Catering
Many chefs are hitting the road, setting up kitchens and bringing their services to a wide
variety of events that need catering. While this career has many up-front expenses, there
are benefits and advantages to this type of career.
Alex Van Heerden, chef and owner of Just Alex Catering, chose
this path as he was looking for something a little bit different
than the same kitchen day in and day out, “I decided to take
the catering route because of the training I received, and also
because no event will ever be the same so it keeps it interesting.”
Just Alex Catering was founded in 2008 and caters for a wide
range of events that range from corporate functions, training and
meetings, end-of-year parties, private parties and casual dining
such as braais or spitbraais. He says, “I do all sorts of catering,
but my biggest business is corporate clients office catering.” Just
Alex Catering can create plated, buffet, tea and coffee, lunches,
cocktail platters and gala dinner meals. Alex just focuses on the
food and brings in other companies to provide services such as
bar, waiters, cleaners and security, as well as marquees, décor, and
sound and lighting.
Alex believes that there is a big market for caterers, although
there are a few elements that make it more difficult to get work,
“The problem is that you get a lot of people catering out of their
kitchen at home. Also, with the tough economic times we are
facing, many people are undercutting themselves which makes it
hard to keep a good profit.” He describes one of the pitfalls of this
20 | CHEF! Issue 28
type of career as never having your own permanent kitchen on
site, so you need to bring extra ingredients. However, the benefit
would be that each function can be budgeted for specifically.
Getting started in the industry is also extremely expensive: “It
does depend on what you plan on doing, but building an off-site
kitchen can be costly.” Items that are needed are the gas items,
tables, washing areas and ovens. Another pitfall can potentially
be the weather. "Weather is a big problem," says Alex, "We have
had to make some changes very quickly to save a tent or décor
setting. Once we had to rebuild and lay out all of the wedding
décor in an hour because of the rain."
Alex gets the word out there mainly through word of mouth,
but advertising on the internet has also been a great tool. If you
are considering offering offsite catering, it’s recommended to not
just jump into it as it is clearly a costly business with big initial
outlays.
Just Alex Catering | www.justalex.co.za | 082 468 2308 |
[email protected]
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Chef
chefProfile
profile
Giorgio
Locatelli
Arguably the world’s most well-known Italian chef, Giorgio Locatelli will be entertaining the crowds
at the Cape Town leg of the Good Food & Wine Show this year. The 45 year old serves traditional
Italian dishes at his Michelin-starred restaurant in London, Locanda Locatelli, and emphasises fresh
and exceptional produce in each dish.
Giorgio was brought up on the banks of
Lake Maggiore in an Italian village called
Corgeno where his family ran a Michelinstarred restaurant that gave him an
appreciation for food from an early age.
After a short stint working in restaurants
in North Italy and Switzerland, Giorgio
travelled to England in 1986 to work
with Anton Edelmann at The Savoy. Four
years later he moved to Paris and worked
at Restaurant Laurent and La Tour
D’Argent, returning to London a couple
of years later to become the head chef at
Olivo before opening Zafferano in 1995.
His cooking at Zafferano brought him
a slew of awards, including his first
Michelin star in 1999. In 2002 Giorgio
and his wife Plaxy opened their first
independent restaurant Locanda Locatelli,
which has received a Michelin star every
year since 2003. This family man lives in
Camden, London with his wife and two
children.
Italian cuisine is incredibly popular,
but many restaurants serving this
cuisine get it horribly wrong – what are
your ‘pet hates’ when it comes to this?
It is truly disheartening when you go to
an Italian restaurant and you realise that
they have no understanding of what real
cooking actually is. I hate any badly made
pan-Italian cuisine that sells itself as being
22 | CHEF! Issue 28
authentic. Truly authentic Italian cuisine
has its roots in regional cooking.
it’s a moment of real intimacy with those
closest to me.
What do you attribute your restaurant’s
enduring success to? Have you any
advice to other chefs about running a
successful restaurant?
What is a dish that you feel best
represents you?
A restaurant’s success relies on the staff’s
constant passion which keeps everything
moving efficiently but with a touch of
excitement. My advice would be to put
the same hard work into every single day
as if it were the first.
Retaining a Michelin star seems to be
stressful – is there a lot of pressure to
stay at the top and how do you deal
with it?
Yes, there is a lot of stress involved, so
looking after yourself is important. It
takes more and more work to stay at the
top and striving to maintain the same
level of excellence we’ve always aspired to
is certainly worth the effort.
How do you balance your family and
professional life?
I always have a meal a day with my
family. Sitting at the table and talking
while we all have something to eat is one
of the moments I most look forward to -
Rabbit wrapped in Parma ham with
polenta.
What can guests expect at your
demonstrations at the Good Food &
Wine Show?
Guests can expect an explosion of Sicilian
flavour and history which will blow their
minds!
What is your philosophy in the kitchen
and what are the kitchen habits that irk
you the most when you see other chefs
doing them?
Kitchen work is based on team effort. In
mine there is no space for racism, sexism
or discrimination of any kind.
You’ve been to South Africa before –
what do you think about South African
cuisine?
South Africa is a fantastic territory with
so much potential for growing a variety
of ingredients that make cuisine special.
I am truly looking forward to being in
South Africa.
Busiate with Pesto Trapanese
Serves 4
Tomato and almond pesto:
Pasta:
(use this with fish or meat, or toss
through pasta, makes about 600g)
75g almonds
500g plum tomatoes
4 garlic cloves
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper
40g fresh mint, shredded
50ml olive oil
175g semolina flour
75g ‘00’ flour plus extra
for dusting
1 egg yolk
1tsp olive oil
1tsp sea salt
Method
• To make the pesto: Heat the oven to 180°C. Lay the almonds in a single
layer on a baking tray and put into the oven for about 8 minutes. As long
as they are in a single layer you don't need to turn them.
• Keep an eye on them to make sure they don’t burn, and when they are
golden, take them out and chop them.
• Put the tomatoes into a pan of boiling water for 10 seconds, then drain
them under cold water and you should be able to peel them easily.
• Cut them in half, scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon, and chop the flesh.
Grind the toasted almonds with the garlic, using a pestle and mortar, until
you have a paste.
• Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper and mint and pound again very briefly,
just to crush the tomatoes a little. Then add the olive oil a little at a time,
working it into the paste.
• To make the pasta: Put all the pasta ingredients into a food mixer with a
paddle and whiz until everything comes together into dough, and then
leave it to rest for 20 minutes. Have a baking sheet ready, dusted with
flour.
• To form the busiate, roll the dough out into a rectangle about 2mm thick. Cut it
lengthways into strips 1cm wide.
• Take each strip and coil it tightly along the length of a large skewer or clean
knitting needle. Roll the skewer or needle gently over your work surface, so that
you flatten the pasta slightly and help the coil of pasta to stick to itself, then push
it gently off the skewer or needle and lay it on the floured baking sheet.
• Repeat with all the strips of pasta, laying them on the sheet in a single layer to
dry for about an hour, until they hold their shape. Bring a large pan of water to
the boil and add salt.
• Put in the busiate and cook for about 5 minutes, or if using packet pasta, for 1
minute less than directed. Drain lightly, put back in the pan, add the pesto, and
toss all together.
Pasta al pesto trapanese is one of the most
famous recipes around Trapani, made with
the pesto sauce that is named after the city. At
a restaurant in Trapani, I watched one of the
women making fresh busiate – long twists of
durum wheat pasta – by hand, with the lightest,
quickest touch I have seen in my life. And yet
her hands must also have been so strong to have
worked this pasta in the same way for years, the
way her mother and grandmother had most
likely done before her, rolling the lengths of pasta
around a special needle, then sliding them off
into spirals that stayed perfectly in shape when
she laid them on trays to dry. Like people who
make gnocchi, she had wonderful dexterity, and
watching her was like watching a little slice of
Sicilian history. In Trapani you can buy artisan
busiate in small pastiere, made either by hand, or
with little extruders that twist the pasta. It is also
sold dried in packets. If you don’t want to make
your own busiate, or can’t find any dried, you can
use any long twisted pasta or bucatini, broken in
half, instead. Sometimes I like to add some olives
a nd capers at the very end.
Good Food & Wine Show
Catch Giorgio and a host of other chefs in action at the Good Food
&Wine Show Cape Town, running from the 24th to the 27th of May at
the CTICC. The show offers all things gourmet, including demonstrations
from Cake Boss Buddy Valastro, winner of MasterChef America Whitney
Miller, Reza Mahammad and celebrity chef Ariana Bundy. For the full
programme, visit www. goodfoodandwineshow.co.za.
CHEF! Issue 28 | 23
profile
Dion
Vengatass
The winner of the Unilever Food Solutions By Invitation Only Masters Competition might work in
Cape Town’s prestigious Mount Nelson hotel, but his roots are in Gauteng’s Benoni – a suburb that
has given us Charlize Theron, Monacan Princess Charlene Wittstock and now 2012’s winner of this
illustrious competition, Chef Dion Vengatass.
The young chef ’s passionate inspiration comes from
everything around him and while he created exquisite dishes
during the Unilever Food Solutions competition, he’s most
proud of his culinary creation Mr Dee’s Curry Powder. His
infectious energy and love for food is underpinned by an
obsessive need to keep everything in the kitchen neat and
tidy. He keeps up to date with trends by consuming a vast
amount of culinary literature, from magazines to cookbooks,
and the best advice he’s ever received was to cook with love
and be happy doing it.
Nelson, how could I turn that down? I even took the job for
half the salary I was getting in Jozi.
What are the things that you enjoy the most about
competing?
One simple word: pressure! I love it.
How and why did you start cooking?
I started cooking at the young age of 4 with my great
grandmother. At first I just peeled potatoes, grated tomatoes
and soaked rice, which led to cooking curries and making
marsalas.
Did you train and if so, how did you?
Just a little as I was too busy at work at the time. My strategy
was to create a new dish on a daily basis, to keep the creative
juices flowing.
Where did you train and where are some of the
restaurants you’ve worked?
I trained at the Swiss Hotel School where I got my
management diploma. I worked in the USA and then at the
Saxon Hotel, but before that I hopped from one restaurant
to another.
What made you decide to move down to Cape Town?
Chef Rudi Liebenberg asked me to join him at the Mount
24 | CHEF! Issue 28
Why did you think that you won the competition?
I suffer with a compulsive disorder and I can proudly say
that I am a neat freak! I am also great at organisation and
these skills gave me an upper hand in the competition.
How would you describe your personal style of cooking?
Energetic, wild, professional, passionate and artistic cooking!
You’ve got loads of tattoos - could you tell us about them
and what, if anything, they mean to you?
I have a set of my favourite knives because I love collecting
knives so it just seemed right to put them on my arm. I
also have the Lord’s Prayer on the other hand, and a few
others. They all have some reference to my personality or
my life.
Who are your mentors? Whose career do you aspire to
emulate?
In the country Chef Rudi Liebenberg and abroad the great
Marco Pierre White. I aspire to be myself. I admire the
passionate crazy chef that I am - he’s very unique.
What would your last dish on earth be?
My Gran’s lamb uchnie and dhal – it’s to die for, hence my
choice.
If you could only use five ingredients for the rest of your
life, what would they be?
Mr Dee’s curry powder, chilli, garlic, pork and bread!
Best moment in the kitchen?
When a perfect plate of food comes together after all those
hours, sometimes days of work that went into one plate.
This is something special to me – it’s when I dance and jump
around with excitement.
Most embarrassing moment in the kitchen?
When I was a trainee I spilled 30 litres of beef stock just
in front of my executive chef and he drilled me in front of
everyone. This was not a cool moment in my career.
What is your pet hate?
I hate disorganisation, uncleanliness and, most of all, chefs
who have no respect for the food they work with!
The Unilever Food Solutions By
Invitation Only Masters competition
Dion Vengatass is the 8th winner of this prestigious
mystery basket challenge which invites 4 of the most
recognised, experienced and accomplished chefs in the
country to compete against each other and the fifth chef
who is automatically entered after winning the Unilever
Food Solutions Senior competition. Dion won this
competition in 2011 and he this year competed against
Craig Cormack (Sofia's Restaurant), Mervyn Davies
(Sublime Catering), George Georgiou (Silverstar Casino)
and Sharmaine Dixon (1000 Hills Chef School). Dion
is the winner of R40 000, impressing judges with his
menu that had to include prawns, sole, chorizo and
quail breast. Dion's menu was Pan fried Sole, Prawn
Potsticker, Sugar Snap and Corn Salad, Veggie Spiced
Pickled Onion, Tomato Velouté as a starter, and Quail
Roulade, Pan Fried Quail breast, Quail Tortellini, Carrot
and Beef Fondants, Butternut Pureé, Spinach Toast with
Chorizo and Quail Jus as main course. His dessert was
a Raspberry Steam Pudding, Strawberry Parfait, White
Chocolate Cream, Pannacotta Berry Sauce.
CHEF! Issue 28 | 25
Interest
In Vitro Meat
In February, news reports announced that a Dutch scientist from
the Maastricht University in Amsterdam had successfully grown a
strip of meat in a petri dish. While this in itself is not so unusual
(the world of science is pretty advanced these days), it was his plans
to produce enough meat to make a hamburger patty by October,
and then enlist the help of chef Heston Blumenthal to cook it and
serve to a guest chosen by the project’s financier. This means that by
the end of year, someone may have eaten a hamburger made out of
meat that has never been a part of an animal.
Professor Mark Post’s announcement was
made at the American Academy for the
Advancement of Science’s annual meeting
in Vancouver. He said in the Telegraph
newspaper: “In October we are going
to provide a proof of concept showing
out of stem cells we can make a product
that looks, feels and hopefully tastes like
meat.” So how does the whole thing
work?
Firstly, stem cells (basic cells that can
be manipulated into another type cell)
are extracted from animals; in this case
stem cells are taken from fresh cow
muscles obtained by biopsy. The cells
then multiply in a growth medium – in
the experiments so far the researchers
have used commercially available media
supplemented with calf serum (cow
foetus), but in the future they will use
synthetic mediums or an efficient nutrient
source such as algae. The stem cells then
automatically turn into muscle cells
because they were taken from muscle
cells, and then they bulk up into solid
fibre bundles. Now that the muscle
cells are growing, they need to be fed
constantly with nutrients so the culture
medium that the muscle is covered with
is regularly changed. In order to create a
larger piece of muscle, a sugar chain duct
system is created so that the medium can
flow through the meat like blood flows
through our veins.
Now, as if this wasn’t enough of a hugely
laborious task, the meat that is created
is just muscle which, if one was to think
about the physical make-up of meat,
isn’t enough to effectively replicate the
experience of eating a hamburger. Flesh
is made up of muscle, fat and blood cells,
so researchers are now embarking on
26 | CHEF! Issue 29
enhancing two existing projects – growing
fat and enhancing the myoglobin in
meat (the oxygen-binding protein found
in muscle tissue). After the fat is grown,
it will be mixed up with the muscle
to recreate the natural composition of
meat. This will hopefully mimic the taste
and texture of normal meat which can
then be minced up to create mince for a
hamburger that tastes just like a normal
burger. According to The Telegraph, 3000
strips of muscle and 200 strips need to be
created to produce one burger.
In Vitro Meat has been hailed as a
solution for vegetarians – a meat that
can be eaten by those who are ethically
against the slaughter of animals for food.
Although, one would assume that it
would only be alright for a vegetarian to
eat the meat if it had been used with a
non animal-based solution rather than
the calf foetus that is currently being
used. Also, the easiest way to extract the
cow stem cells still involves slaughtering
the animal. The People for the Ethical
Treatment of Animals (PETA) have
applauded the advancement. PETA has
promised $1 million to the first scientist
that produces an in vitro chicken product
that is indistinguishable in taste and
texture from the real thing, and can
successfully manufacture the product
in large quantities that it can be sold
commercially in at least 10 states at a
competitive price.
Given that the burger that will be making
appearance in October will have cost
EUR250 000 (provided by a private
financier), it doesn’t look like PETA is in
any danger of having to hand out their In
Vitro Meat Prize just yet. Although the
mass-scale production of these burgers
is a long way off, it does raise some
interesting questions about how this type
of meat will affect chefs – would you be
comfortable serving this frankenburger
in your establishment? Or even be
comfortable eating it? Meat’s taste is
affected by what the animal ate while alive
– what will the test tube meat taste like?
Will it be possible to introduce nutrients
that replicate the grass and herbs that free
range cows eat? Incidentally, a Russian
journalist apparently snatched a piece of
petri dish-grown pork during a visit to the
Professor’s lab and has declared himself
unimpressed.
So what would the benefits to In
Vitro meat be? Well according to the
Huffington Post, currently 40 billion
animals are slaughtered every year in
the USA and over ¼ of the earth's land
mass is used for livestock grazing. Global
meat production counts for 18% of
the world's greenhouse gases which is
more than the emission of every car,
bus, train and aeroplane combined, and
for every 15g of meat produced, the
animal needs to be fed 100g of vegetable
protein. In vitro meat would also use up
to 60% less energy, emit up to 95% less
greenhouse gas and use 98% less land
than conventionally farmed meat, not to
mention that the meat would be cleaner,
so no risk of e-coli or salmonella. There
seem to be a lot of benefits on the cards,
and maybe this will be a viable solution
to the forecasted population explosion
that by 2052 will be requiring double
the meat already produced. Still, it’s
going to be pretty difficult getting over
the psychological barrier – thankfully it
doesn’t seem that we’ll have to make that
sort of decision just yet.
What Doesn't Kill Us
While the internet is full to bursting with tales of terrible restaurant experiences, we thought we’d turn
the tables and ask chefs for their funniest stories involving guests - we’ve kept it anonymous so that
certain members of the Association don’t get sent to anger management classes. Although, one of the
chefs was quite happy for us to print as his name as he says that “these (stories) are battle scars.”
"I was called over to a table where
a customer had a special request.
He said that he would like boiled
potatoes with his kingklip. I said
that it was no problem and that
even though we didn’t serve boiled
potatoes as a sidedish I would get
some and prepare them especially
for him. I quickly rushed out to
Woolies next door and got some new
potatoes, boiled them, popped them
in a pan with some lovely butter and
parsley, and served them with the
kingklip. I was called later by the
waiter who said that the customer
who ordered the boiled potatoes
refused to pay. I asked him what
the problem was and he replied that
the potatoes were slightly glassy and
unacceptable and so refused to pay.
I replied, “I am so sorry for the
potatoes but did you not enjoy the
fish or the wine?” He answered,
“They were both excellent but I am
still not paying as the customer was
not satisfied.” At this stage I was
still trying to be reasonable and I
countered, “Sir, it is my wish that all
clients leave here happy and satisfied,
so as a gesture of good will I will
take your wine off the bill,” and then
I turned and left the table. I was
standing at the front of the restaurant
when he came up to me with his arm
outstretched, pointing it into my face
with his forefinger and said, “Are you
stupid? I don’t think you understand
me. I am not paying!” and as he said
it, he prodded his forefinger into my
nose. I grabbed his finger, swung his
arm behind his back, picked him
up and threw him through the very
expensive sandblasted front window
of the restaurant. He landed outside,
a little shocked but when he saw the
expression on my face he got up fast
and started running. He then hid
behind my wife – the reason I am
not in prison for murder today."
"I’ve had them all! I’ve received complaints of chewy meat when I’ve used 40day matured meat, although in those cases the complaints came after they didn’t
touch it after cutting into it or complaining it is tough – I sometimes think
people have lost the ability to use their teeth and chew. I’ve had customers
sending dishes back after complaining that they didn’t order it when the dish
was repeated back and explained after the order was placed. One customer said
that my Heston Blumenthal-inspired Black Forest Cake was the most disgusting
thing they’d ever eaten, and another customer complained that the crust on the
ciabatta was too crispy and then proceeded to remove it from the bread which
is virtually impossible. Finally, one guest complained that they didn’t want to sit
in a certain area and then proceeded to move – three times."
"A waiter calls me from the
kitchen: “Sir, the customer on
table 9 is complaining about the
oysters.” I go quickly and ask,
“How can I help you Madam?”
She replies, “My oyster is chipped”
and I immediately replied that I
was terribly sorry, thinking that
the chef had broken some of the
shell during shucking and given
her a gritty oyster. I asked her if
this was the case and she said,
“No, the oysters were superb, but
look at this…” and she proceeded
to turn the oyster shell over and
pointed out the small white chips
on the shell where the wild oyster
had been torn off the rocks. "
"The other day while standing
in reception at about 12h30 and
a gentleman came in and by his
facial expression I could see that
he needed help. I asked, “Can I
help you sir?” to which he replied,
“Yes I’m here for the breakfast,”
with a smile on his face.
I looked at my watched and
replied that it was now 12h30
and breakfast was for 08h00. He
was very surprised and asked, “It’s
over?” “Yes sir,” I said and walked
away. It absolutely floored me that
you would have the nerve to show
up to an event 4 ½ hours late and
expect it to have waited for you."
"A guest together with his wife
and young daughter sat down
for an early lunch. The father
ordered a smoked chicken and
paw paw salad with a lightly
curried mayo dressing but then
sent the meal back with the
manager complaining that there
wasn’t enough smoked chicken.
I was about to put more chicken
on but noticed that the guest had
actually separated the salad in
piles of chicken, paw paw, lettuce
and so on. This is when I lost it
- how can he destroy a beautifully
presented dish just to show me
that there was not enough chicken?
I took the plate to his table, threw
it down and told him that he
shouldn’t destroy my presentation
but rather ask for more chicken.
He started arguing with me and
threatened to go to management. I
then responded and told him to do
what the @£$! he liked, which he
countered saying he would go to
the press as I had sworn in front of
his daughter. I told him to take his
wife and daughter and get out of
the restaurant, adding that I would
give him the number for the press.
Thankfully, since that incident I’ve
learned to treat every complaint
as it arises and try and solve it
then and there so that the guest is
happy and comes back to support
the business."
CHEF! Issue 29 | 27
interest
Authentic Flavours
of Mexico
Mexico’s cuisine is truly a
fantastic melting pot and a
beautiful reflection of the
country’s traditions and
cultures. In fact, in 2010
the cuisine was listed as one
of UNESCO’s intangible
benefits to cultural heritage.
Though different regions
obviously have different
dishes, depending on the
produce that can be found
in that area and the cultural
influences that appeared in
the region’s history, there are
mainstays of the cuisine that
date far, far back: techniques
that have been passed down
from mother to daughter
and ingredients that have
stood the test time.
The three stalwarts of Mexican cuisine
are corn, beans and chillies. In fact,
chillies are seen as such a necessity that
they, along with salt, were avoided during
special religious fasts. Chillies are also
added to many dishes as it helps the
body digest the proteins in corn and
beans. Corn is a staple that is absolutely
everywhere in the cuisine, but most
obviously in tortilla (flat, thin circles of
unrisen bread) and tamale (tortilla dough
filled with meat, fruit or vegetables,
wrapped in a corn husk and steamed).
Corn is cooked in a chalk solution and
this process adds nutrients as well as
making the corn easier to digest. It is
then ground down into a paste using
grinding stones and mortars, and the
paste forms the basis of tortillas, tamales,
soups, atole (corn beverage) and a variety
of other dishes.
Other native ingredients that supplement
the basic trio of corn, beans and chillies
include tomatoes, squashes, avocadoes,
cocoa and vanilla. Commonly used
herbs and spices include coriander,
oregano, epazote (much like oregano)
and cinnamon. The Spanish arrived in
Mexico in 1492 although this didn’t
change the traditional cuisine, just
introduced a number of ingredients
that were already being utilised in other
cuisines in the New World. The Spanish
introduced meat such as chicken, beef
and pork, as well as ingredients such as
cheese, garlic, onions and rice.
The basic tools and techniques of
traditional Mexican cuisine haven’t
changed much in the centuries since
28 | CHEF! Issue 29
maize and chillies were grown for
domestic use. Much ritual was used in
creating meals, and today the mokajete
is still used to create sauces such as
salsa. This volcanic stone or clay mortar
with a hollow in it is used to grind
sauce ingredients together. The piece of
equipment basically does the job of a
blender, and in many households it was
replaced until the mokajete had a surge
in popularity due, in part, to Mexican
nouvelle cuisine. In certain fine dining
restaurants, the salsa is made at the table
in this traditional piece of equipment.
Cacao was traditionally used by the
Aztecs, the ancient race that lived in
Mexico hundreds of years ago, and was
used in a bitter, hot drink. When the
Spanish arrived, they added sugar to
the drink which results in today’s hot
chocolate. Cacao is also used to flavour
a traditional Molé sauce which is made
with many ingredients that include
chillies, tomatoes, garlic, cinnamon,
peanuts, anise and raisins. The sauce
is cooked separately from the meat
(traditionally turkey) and is spooned over
it at the end of the cooking process. This
dish has become something of Mexico’s
national dish and is used in celebratory
feasts.
In the Pacific regions of Mexico fish is
an important ingredient, and ceviches,
although the origins of the dish are
debatable, are common in the area.
The ceviche prepared in Mexico uses
lime, tomatoes, onions, chillies and
coriander. Regions in Northern Mexico
are known for their grilled meats because
El burro
Restaurant Profile
of their hefty beef, goat and ostrich
production, as well as being known for
a cut of meat called arachera, the flank
steak. In the South East of Mexico, the
dishes have a trademark sweetness that
comes from its produce as well as a
shrub called Achiote, and is renowned
for its spicy chicken and vegetarian
dishes. In fact, the region takes in
Caribbean influences in its cuisine
because of its close proximity to the
islands. The South Western region of
Mexico known for its savoury tamales
and tlayudas (a partially toasted tortilla
spread with refried beans, unrefined
pork lard, lettuce, avocado, meat,
oaxaco cheese and salsa), and the
mountainous region in the West of
Mexico is known for its birria (goat in
a spiced tomato sauce).
While the country’s regional cuisines
are, like all countries, different, one
thing that all traditional dishes have
in common is their freshness, vibrancy
and simplicity. There is so much to
know about this fascinating cuisine,
and it has much to offer as inspiration
to South African chefs – this article is
just the tip of the iceberg and I urge
chefs to do a bit of research to discover
more about Mexico’s authentic cuisine.
We chat with Nic Haarhoff, one of the owners of El Burro Mexican restaurant in Cape
Town.
El Burro is our home from home. There are four owners in total: myself, René Jellis
(my fiancé), Hugo and Sascha Berolsky. It is an even split between us. René and I are the
managing partners, so we are here all day and night, but Hugo and Sascha are still very
much involved. We have all been friends since our teens and this is why El Burro is like a
home for us. We try our very best to offer proper Mexican food that tastes and feels the same
as it does in Mexico. This undertaking is by no means easy when you realise just how
vast and regional Mexican food is. However, we can guarantee that our food is made
fresh every day, with only fresh ingredients. Every single last item is made by us. We
do not use any pre-packaged items. The same applies to the drinks. We only use fresh
ingredients for our cocktails and only fresh lime in our margaritas. If we cannot get
limes, we cannot serve margaritas. Our approach is very simple: good food, good service, affordability. Those are the
three things we strive for the most. Sascha first went to Mexico circa 2002 and came back with a deep love for their
cuisine. As a trained chef and owner of Royale, he appreciated the difference that fresh
Mexican cuisine has to offer. I remember very distinctly when he came back, he looked
at Hugo and myself and said “We have to do an authentic Mexican restaurant.”
South Africa has generally been getting more Tex-Mex style restaurants. Proper
Mexican does not have ‘crispy taco shells’ and does not use Nachos in the way we do
here. The main things like Burritos and Fajitas don’t feature in everyday Mexican cuisine.
Only in the more touristy areas will you find an abundance of Burritos/Fajitas/Chilli
Poppers.
Chilli Poppers don’t really exist in Mexico. They make Chilli Rellenos, but those are
made using very large chillies. The chillies for Rellenos are called Poblano chillies and are
about the size of a large pepper. They stuff theirs with pork, chicken, anything really. I think the fundamental item that defines true Mexican Cuisine is the Corn Tortilla.
This delightfully simple, tasty, floppy little piece of heaven is as staple to Mexico as
Mielie Meal is to Southern Africa. The tortilla is used in many different ways to create different dishes. Put a filling on it
and fold in half and you have a taco. Put cheese and a filling on, heat until cheese melts
and fold in half and you have quesadillas. Put filling in, roll up and bake and you have
an enchilada. Cut up yesterday’s tortillas, fry up with a salsa and you have Chilaquelas
(an everyday breakfast item). The list goes on and on. Different kinds of chillies (chipotle, poblanos, ancho, etc) are used to flavour dishes
rather than heat them. It is a huge misconception that all Mexican food is heavily
laced with heat. Mexican food does not use vast amounts of cheese either. Neither does all Mexican
food have to contain a lot of chilli. The corn tortilla also didn't make the leap across the
Atlantic either, which is strange as it is core to true Mexican cuisine.
Most importantly, proper Mexican food is made fresh fresh fresh.
Our best sellers are our tacos and enchiladas. Surprisingly, our Cabrito(goat) has taken
off and we cannot get enough goat to supply demand!
El Burro | 81 Main Road Green Point | (021) 433 2364
CHEF! Issue 29
26 | 29
interest
Foraging for
South Africa’s Unique Ingredient
Noma’s René Redzepi recently took part in SA’s Design Indaba, discussing how his restaurant got to
where it is today and how he created a new form of regional Danish cuisine. He didn’t do this purely
by using Danish ingredients such as cream or butter, he set out to find different unique produce that
was sourced from the immediate region. With the help of ingredients such as young pine cones and
leaves, he has set about creating time and place on a plate. Noma’s success is partly the reason, along
with a worldwide move back towards authenticity and artisanal ingredients, that many chefs in South
Africa have begun to look at how they can forage for wild, South African ingredients for the menu.
First things first – be extremely careful when selecting ingredients. If you
are serious about foraging for wild produce, perhaps it’s best to invest in a
guidebook or even assistance from a guide that can show you which ingredients
to harvest. There are many wild ingredients that are poisonous and another
thing to think about is that some flora might be endangered. Also, always ask
permission before you harvest produce and certainly don’t take plants from
protected areas such as national parks. When applicable, get a license – you
can’t just rip mussels and limpets off rocks. Foragers need to either be aware of
the number of items they can take (if any) before getting a license, or get the
necessary permits that allows them to harvest. Another option is to buy the
indigenous plants from a nursery and plant them in your garden or restaurant
so that the ingredients can always be accessed.
Produce also obviously depends where you are foraging from - Bertus Basson
from Overture Restaurant in Stellenbosch takes to the forests to pick Ceps
and Pine Rings in the winter, drying them out for later use. He also harvests
pine needles to make pine oil and smoke ingredients with, as well as wood
30 | CHEF! Issue 29
sorrel which he says is “great for salads and fish
dishes.” Chef Allistaire Lawrence from Roots
Restaurant in Gauteng also uses pine cones
and needles to smoke dishes and Eric Bulpitt
from the Roundhouse Restaurant in Cape
Town reportedly forages for chickweed and
clovers. Kobus van der Merwe from the
Oep ve Koep restaurant in Paternoster on
the Cape’s West Coast, has access to a wide
array of indigenous flora and fauna that he
uses on his menu. Ingredients are seasonal,
but when available Kobus uses ingredients
such as perdevoet (limpets), seeslaai (sea
lettuce), soutslaai, suurvygie, veldkool and
sandveld potatoes.
Renata Coetzee, a well-known food
historian and the author of the Gourmandwinning cookbook Koekamakranka, is
an expert on the foods that the Khoikhoi
traditionally ate. Her cookbook is filled
with culinary history, as well as recipes that
give modern utilisation of these indigenous
ingredients. Ingredients include buchu
(used by boiling the leaves of the plant in
water), wild gherkin, tsamma (pan-fried in
butter), sour fig, red veldpatat (wild sweet
potato) and anise root. Shaun Schoeman
from Solms-Delta’s Fyndraai restaurant
reflects this heritage, using a number
of foraged herbs from the wine estate
in his dishes. The menu is dotted with
ingredients such as spekboom seeds (used
with scallops), wild garlic, wild rosemary
and wilde olywe (in the Fyndraai Salad).
The foraging bug has definitely bit in
certain areas of SA – Tswalu Kalahari
offers a Kalahari truffle (or t’naba) hunting
expedition over four days, offering the
luxury of the lodge with the thrill of the
hunt. Kalahari truffles are a distant relative
of the French truffle and have a similar
taste to porcini mushrooms – in fact,
Renata Coetzee recommends that they
be used in a sauce, cooked with butter.
Chef Valentine Warner visited South
Africa last year and took a food safari in
the Eastern Cape where he made a salad
using spekboom leaves (sweet with a bitter
aftertaste) and cactus leaves, caught a
black-tailed bream and cooked guinea fowl
while staying at the Oceana Beach and
Wildlife Reserve.
It seems that there are so many ingredients
available out there for the eager chef – all
it takes is knowledge, energy and a passion
for finding and showcasing indigenous
produce other than your typical springbok
and kudu.
Four Foraged Sauces
Want to add a wild taste to your dishes but don’t know where to start? Try these
four sauces from the Kukamakranka Cookbook
Veld Mushroom Sauce
Pick the mushrooms in the company of an expert to avoid poisoning your
guests. Stir-fry the chopped mushrooms in butter and season to taste with salt
and pepper. Add red wine and meat gravy and heat until thickened.
Taaibosbessie Sauce
Use this as a substitute for pepper sauce. Pick the taaibos berries while green,
before they develop a hard skin. Soak overnight in brine. Drain and preserve in
hot apple vinegar. To make the sauce, heat meat gravy, add berries and bring to
the boil. Stir in a little cream before serving.
Kalahari Truffle Sauce
Rinse truffles well to remove all traces of sand. Peel and slice. Fry in butter until
cooked. Season with salt and pepper. Add red wine to clean the pan and stir in
meat gravy. Heat and serve with meat dishes.
Buchu-leaf Sauce
Heat the meat gravy together with buchu leaves until the buchu flavour and
taste is taken up. Serve the sauce with the leaves in. A little red wine can be
stirred in.
Kukamakranka
Renata Coetzee & Volker Miros | LAPA | R300
This Gourmand Cookbook Award-winning book is truly the foraging bible
for produce that the nomadic Khoi-Khoin used to use in their cooking. So
much more than a cookbook, Kukamakranka is named for the aromatic plant
of the same name sweet flesh that is consumed and skin that is brought home
to perfume the house. The book is a history lesson on the culture, culinary
practices, customs and traditions of these, the descendants of South Africa is (or
even the world’s) earliest citizens.
Through anecdotes and written accounts, Renata and Volker have compiled
the definitive book on the food that was foraged, hunted and gathered in the
areas that the Khoi-Khoin roamed. You’ll read about the plants and fruits they
ate, how they were found and stored, what they taste like and how they were
used. Kitchen utensils are discussed as well as how the Khoi-Khoin fished and
their different cooking techniques. At the end of the book, you have practical
applications of the ingredients that have been discussed – used in contemporarystyle recipes, they’ll give you a starting point
and an idea of how to utilise the wealth of
ingredients that we have in SA.
I’m just touching the surface of this fascinating
book – I would highly recommend it to all
chefs in South Africa as it is just a wealth of
information that can be used on every menu.
CHEF! Issue 29 | 31
WIN
A MICHELIN
3
CULINARY
TOUR OF THE UK
WITH
SIGNATURE
FLAVOURS
THE PRIZE
a 5 day culinary experience in the UK for you and a
partner, including fine dining at Michelin 3-star restaurants:
The Fat Duck, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and The Waterside Inn
as well as a Gordon Ramsay Masterclass and an exclusive kitchen viewing
at The Waterside Inn. Only 4 restaurants in the UK have a 3-star rating,
so expect unrivalled cuisine from the world’s greatest Chefs.
Buy a combination of Robertsons Spices and Herbs to create your own Signature Flavours.
TO ENTER Buy 1 of these Spices
+
1 of these Herbs
=
One entry.
Collect two unique codes, one from a Robertsons Spice pack and one from a Robertsons Herb pack
and SMS them both to 33878.
Competition runs from 1 April until 30 June 2012. One purchased combination = 1 entry. Unique codes valid for one entry only.
The winner and their partner must be available to take the trip from the 17th - 22nd October 2012. Multiple entries accepted if more
than 1 combination is purchased. Proof of purchase needed to claim prize. SMS’ charged at R1.00
For full Terms and Conditions visit: www.unileverfoodsolutions.co.za.
THE ROBERTSONS
DIFFERENCE
The smallest ingredients make the biggest difference - that’s the power
of spices and herbs. In a competitive and challenging market, these
very ingredients can set your offering apart from the rest, and keep
your customers coming back for more.
Tried and treasured, Robertsons Spices and Herbs have been a firm
favourite with South African Chefs since 1924. This legendary brand has
been collecting spices and herbs from the far corners of the globe to
ensure that Chefs like you can add your Signature Flavours and rich colour
to food.
Our Spices are the best in all-round flavour*. Sourced from the world’s spice
capitals, they are rich in flavour and contain no added colourants.
Our Herbs are 100% pure*. Harvested at their freshest, they are packaged with
their flavours intact and contain no fillers.
When you cook with Robertsons, rest assured that you are using our finest
quality ingredients. In our dedication to delivering quality products to Chefs,
we put every product through 12 quality checks before it reaches you.
*For more info visit: www.unileverfoodsolutions.co.za
SIGNATURE
IN
FLAVOURSTHE KITCHEN
DRIFTWOODS BEACH
RESTAURANT, LANGEBAAN
THE GRAND HOTEL,
ROBERTSON
Relaxed is the keyword at Driftwoods, situated right on the
Langebaan beach overlooking the lagoon, surrounded by sea,
sand and sunshine. It caters for everyone, particularly easy-going
holiday-makers in search of great-tasting meals in hearty portions.
The menu is wide-ranging and includes fresh seafood dishes,
burgers, pizzas, a selection of butterflied steak dishes, salads,
breakfasts and light lunches.
This picturesque Victorian Hotel in the charming
town of Robertson is located in the Breede River
Valley between the Riviersonderend and Langeberg
mountain ranges. The hotel features a popular a la
carte restaurant which caters on average for 50%
local guests and 50% transient guests. The menu is
traditional, with good home cooking as its theme.
Charles Marais
- Head Chef at The Driftwoods Beach Restaurant
Lauren Woolley
- Head Chef at The Grand Hotel
Which Robertsons Spices and Herbs do you use?
I use quite a few Robertsons Spices and Herbs; particularly
Barbecue Spice, Steak & Chops Spice, Chicken Spice, Fish Spice,
Cajun Spice, Peri-Peri, Paprika, Black Pepper, Mixed Herbs and more.
Which Robertsons Spices and Herbs do you use?
I use the Robertsons Steak & Chops Spice, Barbecue Spice,
Cinnamon, Turmeric and various dried herbs such as Robertsons
Origanum and Thyme. That’s what is in my kitchen at the
moment, though I have used many more in the past, and will no
doubt use more in time to come.
What do you use these Spices and Herbs for?
I use Robertsons Steak & Chops Spice sprinkled on sandwiches,
chips and in my meat-based pasta dishes; Barbecue Spice in
all my bastings; Fish Spice in all my fish dishes and in the fish
batter; Black Pepper in the pepper steak; Peri-Peri and Paprika in
chicken dishes, including the chicken livers; and Mixed Herbs in
pasta dishes – particularly in the water when the pasta is cooking.
I make all my sauces from scratch and use Robertsons products
for flavouring.
Hints and tips for using Robertsons
I strongly suggest using Robertsons over any other brand - just
taste the difference. Robertsons is exactly what it says it is on the
label. When you use it, start slowly and then gradually add more
flavour.
Why do you trust Robertsons over other brands?
Robertsons makes my life easier. Their standards are high. You
can see and taste the quality and freshness in their products. I
also know exactly what is in my dishes when I use Robertsons.
What do you use these Spices and Herbs for?
The Robertsons Steak & Chops Spice is excellent for using when
we have a braai outside and cook steaks. My guests love the taste
of braaied steaks! I also use the Barbecue Spice and Origanum
in spaghetti bolognaise, Cinnamon in curries and Turmeric for
flavouring and colouring rice.
The fact is that I tend to mix and match my spices and herbs to
create the Signature Flavours that I enjoy. Then I know my guests
will enjoy it too.
Hints and tips for using Robertsons
The Robertsons Spice flavours are really good and my suggestion
to Chefs who are not using them is to give them a try and use
them in combinations with each other. That way you can create
your own Signature Flavours to suit your specific clientele.
Why do you trust Robertsons over other brands?
Robertsons is just good, consistent quality with excellent taste
profiles. I’m delighted to have it in my kitchen.
Watch out for the next edition of Signature Flavours in the Kitchen.
If you haven’t come across the
with his diner’s perceptions, giving them
Michelin Guide before, you’d be
a truly unique sensory experience. The
forgiven for thinking it was a tyre
Fat Duck has retained its Michelin three
catalogue. You wouldn’t be far wrong
star rating since 2004 and was named
either. It was first published in 1900 by
‘best restaurant in the world’ in 2005
the Michelin tyre company to help French
by ‘Restaurant’ magazine. It is currently
drivers find lodging and eating. More than
ranked number two in the world.
100 years later, it has become the global
standard for restaurant excellence. To
much of the culinary world, Michelin is
the only guide that counts.
Famous for its independence and
anonymity, the Michelin Guide reviewers
do not introduce themselves; they simply
make an anonymous booking. Restaurants
cannot pay to be listed in the guide. The
highest rating given to a restaurant is
three stars, and these are only awarded
for exceptional cuisine. In 2012, only 81
restaurants in the world achieved three
stars, four of which are based in the
UK. Robertsons, The Spice People, are
sending one lucky Chef and their partner
on a culinary tour of three of them:
The Fat Duck, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
and The Waterside Inn.
THE FAT DUCK
RESTAURANT
GORDON RAMSAY
Gordon Ramsay doesn’t need much
introduction. One of the most public
figures in global cuisine, Ramsay is a
household name to Chefs and the public
abroad. His first solo project - the self
titled ‘Restaurant Gordon Ramsay’ in
Chelsea opened its doors in 1998. It
took Ramsay just three short years to
earn three Michelin stars, making him
the first Scotsman to ever achieve this
accolade. The restaurant has retained its
three star rating every year since and the
current Head Chef: Clare Smyth, is the
only female chef in the UK to hold three
Michelin stars.
THE WATERSIDE INN
The Waterside Inn is a legendary name
with a unique family heritage. Founded
Known for its unusual menu, The Fat
in 1972 by the world renowned Chef
Duck is run by Chef Heston Blumenthal.
brothers – Michel and Albert Roux, The
Even though Blumenthal is self taught, he
Waterside Inn has retained its three
is recognized as one of the leading figures
Michelin stars for over twenty-five years,
in modern cuisine. His scientific approach
making it the first restaurant in history to
to cooking is often called molecular
do so outside of France. Recently, Michel
gastronomy and results in extraordinary
Roux’s son, Alain, has taken over the
dishes like snail porridge, sardine on toast
restaurant and is the current Chef-patron,
sorbet and bacon and egg ice cream.
upholding this iconic restaurants heritage
Blumenthal uses psychology to experiment
of excellence.
1641
SIGNATURE
OF
FLAVOURS THEUK
interest
Keeping it
Cool
One of the biggest investments that establishments make are walk-in refrigerators and freezers. This integral
piece of equipment is key to the successful running of a kitchen, but it can easily be taken for granted and
neglected, leading to deterioration, energy inefficiency and spoilt produce. We chatted to Derick Bantjes
from Cold Curve Refrigeration for advice on keeping walk in refrigerators and freezers in tip-top condition.
Energy Efficiency
• Always keep the door of the chiller room closed when inside
for maximum efficiency and, in particular, refrain from
leaving door open during or after use.
-- Chiller and freezer rooms obtain desired temperatures by removing heat, and when excess heat floods into the room resulting from doors being left open, the equipment needs to work harder to remove the heat. This condition (leaving doors open) invariably results in the system consuming more than necessary energy (electricity) and brings about longer run (on) cycles of the compressor.
-- Also, keeping the door closed prevents the icing up of the fan unit (evaporator coil) as the system runs continuously to deal with the extra heat load and has no chance to de-ice.
-- Leaving the chiller room’s door open also leads to a shorter life span for your equipment as it is working far more than required.
• Make sure that the chiller/freezer room’s door emergency
safety release handle is in good working order in order to
allow persons to be able to open the doors from inside
should the doors be closed while in the rooms.
• Also ensure that the internal light of these rooms are
working so that the door can be easily located once inside.
• Wherever possible, install PVC strip curtaining where any
door opens into a working area – the barrier helps to keep
the cold in.
Temperature Monitoring and Maintenance
• Ensure that the temperature dials on the rooms are operational
-- If temperatures, abnormalities or fluctuations occur, it is more often than not an indication that there is a system problem, rather than a broken or faulty temperature dial.
-- This should be easy enough to determine if you keep a register and monitor the temperatures at the same time each day.
-- When taking the temperature recordings, the door must be closed and must have been closed for at least 5 to 10 minutes.
• Don’t panic if the freezer fans aren’t working
-- The automatic pre-set defrost cycle works for half an hour every 6 hours and it is normal for the freezer fans to stop for the duration of the half hour defrost.
-- In the event of the fans (on the freezer room) not running and if un-certain give it 45 minutes before phoning the maintenance company. The system may be
on defrost.
-- Cold room fans will always run during defrost.
• Don’t pack stock directly in front of the fan unit or directly
beneath it.
-- Leave 300mm of space on each side and underneath of the fan. This allows the air to flow unrestricted through to each corner of the room. If stock is packed right up to the fan, areas of the room aren’t reached and food in this area can go off.
-- Fridges, unlike many other pieces of equipment in the kitchen, work for 24 hours of the day and thus need to be serviced religiously once a month.
-- Don’t use new maintenance technicians each month as each technician will need to get to get to know the equipment on the first trip and, only on the second trip, address faults that have persisted.
Room Temperatures
• Although it isn’t possible in the space-constrained world we
live in, ideally there should be two chill rooms – one for
meat and the other for fruit and vegetables.
-- Meat is best kept between 0 - 2°C whereas fruit and vegetables should be kept between 4-7°C. However, meat spoils quickly at temperatures above 2°C.
-- A compromise is to keep meat close to the fan and fruit and vegetables as far away from the fan as possible, close to the door.
-- Frozen meat and chicken should be kept at a minimum of -18°C, whereas ice cream and fish should be kept at a minimum of between -23°C and -25°C.
-- Ice cream and fish spoil when not kept at their appropriate temperature, especially ice cream with a high cream content as its base.
-- The only way to rectify this is to order a fridge with the capability of reaching that low temperature, but many models only reach -18°C
Cold Curve Refrigeration is an industry leader and services many of the major South African supermarket chains located in or
near Gauteng, as well as being active in the set-up and maintenance of refrigeration applications in establishments across the
board. Visit www.coldcurve.co.za, email [email protected] or phone (011) 794 3234.
36 | CHEF! Issue 29
‘Do you dream of starting your own business?’
‘Do you know how to get started?’
Build your Business Brain is a 2-day programme
designed to show you how to do so effectively.
Many professionals are masters of their craft but not necessarily clear on what is required to start,
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ingredients that need to be present if the business idea is going to succeed or survive. Build your
Business Brain explores the key ingredients in the researching, conceptualising, funding, launching,
consolidating and growing phases of a business.
Modules include:
»» Do you still want to put your hand up? - Address the challenges of business ownership
»» So what’s the big idea? - Review of current trends and leading ideas
»» It’s what’s inside that matters? - Discover personality styles and their effects on decision making
»» Put your pen to paper - Capture the business idea and action steps
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»» Build the Business Dashboard - Design tools to measure performance
»» It’s time to tell someone - Develop a marketing & sales plan
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Red Oak Business Institute gift
interest
What’s new with
We’re heading into winter, so
we’ve asked chefs around the
country to tell us how they’re
using the enduringly popular
oxtail on their menus.
Oliver Cattermole
Le Franschhoek Hotel and Spa
“It’s fair to say that a grand
oxtail dish is how a chef cuts his
mustard and I have chosen to
run with it for the autumn and
winter months. The dish on our menu is oxtail
boudin blanc with truffled carrots and cider
creamed cabbage - a hearty yet sophisticated
dish. First the oxtail will be salted for nine
hours, incorporating thyme, garlic and a little
orange zest. Then it gets a light dusting and is
transferred to a roasting tray with onion, carrot,
thyme, garlic, stock and wine and put in the
oven for 13 hours of slow braising at 90°C. After
this the meat is finely picked and served along
with Boudin blanc, foie gras, truffle, carrots,
cider and cabbage.
André Hill
The Peninsula
All Suite Hotel
“Oxtail has always been
one of my favourite winter
ingredients, in fact I like it
all year round. I’ll be using
it as one of the components
of a beef dish and it will
be braised in a sausage
form called a boudin. First
we caramelise the oxtail in a pan until brown,
then place it in a tray with mirepoix made up
of carrots, leeks, celery, onions with garlic, bay
leaves, peppercorns and thyme with a light beef
stock and a good red wine covering the meat
completely. We then cook it all at a low heat
in the oven until falling off the bone and after
that the meat is flaked and the sauce is passed
through muslin and reduced. The meat is then
flavoured with red wine vinegar and shallots,
formed into a cylinder, wrapped tightly and
put in the fridge. Before the dish is sent out we
brush the oxtail with BBQ gastrique, and serve
it with cauliflower purèe, roast spiced beets and a
vinaigrette.”
38 | CHEF! Issue 28
Oxtail?
Peter Tempelhoff
The Collection by Liz McGrath
“We currently have a beef item on the menu
titled ‘Tongue to Tail’, and as the name
suggests, we use tongue, fillet, braised short
rib, crispy sweetbreads, oxtail and a few other
little vegetable garnishes to make up the dish.
For the oxtail component, we braise the oxtail
slowly for approximately six hours after browning it first. We then
brown some washed and chopped mirepoix vegetables with garlic and
thyme in a heavy-based pot, add some tomato paste which we then
cook for a short time while stirring and then fresh tomatoes, which get
cooked down until most of the moisture has gone.
We then add some red wine and finally stock to cover all the ingredients,
and when the stock comes to boil we turn the temperature right down
and let it slowly tick over until the meat is tender. When cooked, we
pick the meat from the bone and then make a chicken mousse with
cream, chicken breasts, egg yolks and seasoning. The ingredients for the
mousse get blitzed, passed and then checked for quality. If the mousse
is the correct consistency we add chopped tarragon, the picked oxtail
meat, a drop of truffle oil and then check for seasoning and flavour one
more time. If we are happy with the flavour and the consistency of the
product, we roll it into a round shape, almost like that of bouquet garni,
covered in plastic wrap (we make them a little smaller than a golf ball).
We then poach it in water for four minutes, take it out of the plastic,
and then glaze with a bit of beef jus before placing them at the end of
the ‘tongue to tail’ plate.”
Clos Malverno's Oxtail with Almond Mashed Potatoes
Floris Smith
Leon Coetzee
Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve
and Wellness Retreat
In this dish we serve truly the best of
oxtail. Oxtail medallions served with
a triplex of potatoes and a mélange of
baby vegetables. The oxtail is cooked
24 hours in advance and de-boned in one piece, chopping the
bones into small pieces and setting aside until ready to use. The
oxtail is laid flat on a work surface, skin side down and tightly
rolled up to form a long cylinder which is then secured with
butcher’s twine. The oxtail and the chopped bones are added to
a cast-iron pan, rendering the fat and caramelising the oxtail.
The oxtail is then removed andmirepoix then tamato paste is
added and the pot is deglazed with wine and port, the oxtail
added again and covered with stock – then cooked slowly for 3
hours, removed and left to cool. The string is then removed, the
oxtail is wrapped tightly in several layers of cling film and then
refrigerated. When we’re ready to serve, we unwrap the oxtail
and carve into eight even-sized medallions. Each medallion is
then placed into the reduced oxtail stock and gently poached
for 10 minutes. It is then served alongside potato dauphinoise,
fondant potatoes, croquettes and sautéed baby vegetables.
Gregory
Czarnecki
Waterkloof Restaurant
“Our oxtail dish on the
menu is an open Oxtail
lasagne with toasted
pistachio and potato
espuma. The oxtail is cooked for 10
hours on a low heat, the sauce then
passed through muslin and reduced.
We then sweat the chopped onion, add
the shredded oxtail, the dates bruinoise
and toasted pistachios, with a bit
of the reduced braising jus to make
sure the whole mixture is moist. To
serve, we rustically layer three sheets
of blanched lasagne sheets with the
oxtail mixture, with toasted pistachio
nuts scattered on the top, dollops of
reduced jus and potato espuma dotted
around the plate.”
Joslin Hawker
Kurland Hotel
“Our oxtail dish is an Oxtail Potjie on the
Fire, cooked with bacon, beef stock, red
wine, tomato paste, sherry and mushrooms.
This simple dish is cooked slowly for about
four hours, and stir continuously.”
Veronica Canha-Hibbert
Ellerman House
“Oxtail is a component of one of our
fish dishes – Pan-fried Kingklip with
Oxtail Tortellini, English Spinach,
Grilled Porcini and Brown Butter Jus.
The braised oxtail is cooked with simple
aromatics and slow-cooked with red wine and brandy,
shredded and then used in tortellini. The tortellini are then
gently boiled in salted water until al dente, sautéed with a
little butter and seasoning and served with the pan-fried
kingklip, sautéed porcini mushrooms, wilted spinach and
a brown butter jus prepared with the remaining oxtail
cooking liquid.”
Brad Ball
Steenberg Bistro Sixteen82
“I’ll be serving the most popular ‘rough’ cut of beef as a
sous vide oxtail pastille which is basically a crisp pastry pie
made with phyllo pastry. I place a couple of onions and garlic
heads to roast in the oven, skin on, and then purée. I add
this to red wine marinated oxtail (seared on a high heat to
caramelise) in a vacuum bag and seal it on full. This goes for
an 18 hour cook at 84°C. The cooking liquor is passed and
reserved and while the meat is shredded from the bone, enough liquor is added to
moisten the shredded tail and combined with sautéed aromatics and wrapped in
a rectangle phyllo mould. Finished in the oven and served with truffled cannellini
bean purée, sautéed shimeji mushrooms, jus and gremolata.”
Nadia Louw Smith
Restaurant at Clos Malverne
“I’ll be using oxtail on our menu cooked with pinotage and served
with almond mashed potatoes. The oxtail is quickly browned and
then slow-cooked for about three hours with bacon, tomatoes,
rosemary, beef stock and Pinotage. Once it’s tender, it’s served with mashed potatoes
that have toasted chopped almonds stirred through them.”
Country Kitchen Restaurant at the Mont
Rochelle Hotel and Mountain Vineyards
“I use oxtail in a Braised Oxtail dish
with biltong mash, roast vegetables and
amarula foam. We season the oxtail and
then fry it evenly on medium heat. Then
we fry the vegetables in the same pan
until golden brown, and place the oxtail
and vegetables in a pot to cook. Using
red wine, port, beef stock and chicken
stock to create a delicious sauce, this is then left to simmer
until the meat falls off the bone. The potato mash is cooked and
mashed traditionally, then we add biltong powder at the last
minute to give it the lovely meaty flavour.”
Garth Almazan
Catharina’s Fine Dining
Restaurant/ Steenberg
Hotel
“I am using oxtail in a
risotto dish: Oxtail, baby
spinach and pea risotto. We
cook the oxtail then shred
the meat off the bones. I use
some of the stock the oxtail
was cooked in as a base for
the risotto. I also add chives, parsley, parmesan
and unsalted butter to it. We present it in a wide
rimmed bowl with more parmesan and sprinkled
with micro herbs.”
CHEF! Issue 28
26 | 39
interest
SIGEP:
Report Back
The seaside resort area of Rimini on the Eastern Adriatic Coast of Italy was
transformed into a culinary paradise between the 21st and 25th of January
for SIGEP - a tradeshow in its 33rd year featuring gelato, pastry, chocolate,
coffee, bakery, pasta and decor exhibits. Debi van Flymen reports back.
On show were the very latest in raw materials, basic products,
plants, machinery, furnishing and fittings for the artisan gelato
and bakery trades. Drawing well over 100 000 visitors this
incredible spectacle showcases all manner of culinary arts in a
series of international competitions that included gelato, coffee,
artisanal breads and even the Pastry Queen championships.
The opportunity to meet and learn from colleagues around the
world was phenomenal. Here are some of the general trends that
bridged the entire show - attending in the future is something
you should add to your bucket list as culinary professionals.
consideration the arm-reach of the person serving behind the
counter and the ease of handing the product to a customer.
Adjustable seating is now available to make the customer
experience more comfortable knowing that comfortable
customers tend to spend more money at a given establishment
and return more frequently. Some of the seating struck
a humorous vein - think eco-friendly surprisingly strong
cardboard tables and chairs as well as oversized foam furniture
that looked a bit like Alice in Wonderland meets sciencefiction, both of which were very comfortable.
Design Showcase
Another popular trend in design was a return to organic
elements - making use of wood and natural fibres and even
stones. Incredibly, one of the most popular display pieces was a
composite recyclable ‘plastic’ plate that looked like a slate tile,
came in a variety of colours and sizes and looked deceptively
real. In Italy, it was obvious that everyone understands that we
eat with our eyes first!
The overwhelming size of this exhibition is dwarfed by the
exceptional professionalism and precision with which it is
executed and the attention to detail of each and every stand.
The Italians do design better than anyone! The clean lines,
exceptional lighting of featured products, innovative efficiency
and a renewed focus on the environmental impact of everything
underscored displays throughout the magnificent venue. Sleek
display cases that are energy efficient nestled amongst small,
incredibly efficient work spaces that maximised functionality
and yet clearly underscored hygiene. From the packaging of raw
materials in recyclable, resilient materials designed to withstand
long-distance travel to the stylish, monogrammed cake boxes
and customised wafers with logos for gelato; the attention to
detail was astounding.
Not only did it all look phenomenal - it had been designed
based on practicality too. Gelato cabinets now take into
40 | CHEF! Issue 29
Back to Basics
Certainly when it came to flavours, the show really brought
home the theme of returning to simple pleasures with less
complicated and engineered combinations. Real respect was
shown for vanilla, chocolate, fresh produce and quality core
ingredients. Testament to this was a queue that formed for
an opportunity to taste an orange gelato on one stand made
with Valencia oranges and nothing artificial – it took twenty
minutes and the patience was rewarded with a sample of what
was definitely a highlight of the show for me.
gelato being fashioned a-la-minute by top chefs. But the
flavours were relatively straight forward and about a linear
purity rather than trendy, complex combinations or multiingredient concoctions.
Spending lots of money on equipment is easy at a tradeshow
like this. You’d be forgiven for wanting the latest and
greatest, the fastest and most efficient machine. But what was
interesting was the number of companies that had re-designed
their equipment after spending time understanding how chefs
work and their machines are used. Understanding that has
led to a renaissance in the kitchen where more equipment
is multi-purpose. Think of the smaller footprint and single
machine can replace literally tens of machines today. Can you
imagine a single machine that can make gelato, whip cream,
cut vegetables, knead bread dough, temper chocolate, poach
salmon, steam delicate vegetables, pressure cook and then blast
chill your oxtail and extrude pasta? Guess what, it is out there.
Check out Telme’s Ribot and you might start re-thinking your
favourite kitchen gadgets.
Along with this came a 'comfort' factor. Many international
visitors argued that this was directly related to the economic
crises facing so many European nations. More comfortable
seating, food and flavours that evoked one’s childhood and that
warm and fuzzy nostalgic feeling were prevalent in all sectors
at the show. Lots of cheese, potato and creamy textures were
evident across the board. And while the sugar art sculptures
were definitely cutting edge and pushed the gravity and
physics limits too, the number of people flocking to a stand
where they could drink thick hot chocolatey beverages seemed
to have no connection with the weather outside.
Environmental awareness could be the catch phrase of the
show as the understanding of one’s carbon footprint, air
miles, compostable products and recyclable products really
was hammered home in everything from hospitality clothing
and the manufacture of ready to fill tart shells as well as the
most obvious packaging. A bio-SIGEP show even took place
within the show itself with standing room only for most of the
sessions.
Provenance
Social media, relatively inexpensive global travel and
technology have erased boundaries in the food world. You
can source almost any ingredient from any spot on the globe
and virtually have it delivered to your door thousands of miles
away. Culinary concepts such as seasonality don’t exist for
some chefs as they can source anything from anywhere at any
time of year. But the concept of ‘local is lekker’ and ‘slow food’
have made everyone sit back and re-think the value beyond the
novelty factor.
A tea stand incorporated tea ceremonies, traditional serving
vessels and very clear origins of their products including our
own contender, rooibos. It seems all over the world whether
it is tea for two, chocolates or even pasta – the customers are
clamouring for the authenticity factor. Branding reflects this
too and where single vineyard and special cuvee were once
terms you would only come across in wine circles, today they
grace olive oil labels, fruit purèes, juices and chocolate boxes.
Convenience and Vending Solutions
How many times have you pulled up outside your favourite
bakery for a loaf of bread only to find that they are closed
and you need to resort to the convenience of a commercial
loaf pumped full of additives and air? Thought so. Now think
how that experience might have been altered if your favourite
bakery had a vending machine you could access outside of
their operating hours packed full with their delicious products
and accessible based on your busy schedule. It is out there and
it is increasing sales because products are available on demand
for consumers.
In fact, vending solutions are a growing reality in the hospitality
industry with machines that even finish par-baked products such
as pizzas and breads and deliver them piping hot. Convenience
has seen a revolution in packaging where many more consumers
look for multi-purpose containers such as purchasing a readymade product that can be heated and eaten from the same
container whether it is being warmed in a traditional oven or
microwave. Not only have the materials themselves become more
resilient but they are easy on the eyes too.
The sheer scope of this show is miraculous. Over 120 000
visitors, 850 exhibitors, 14 halls and 90 000 metres of floor
space mean the greatest concentration of expertise you can
find. The show was so big that after meeting two fellow SA
attendees at the airport in Bologna, our paths never once
crossed at the show itself. Sifting through the information is
challenging and rewarding even after the show has past. The
six hundred and fifty plus page official catalogue is a testament
to five days of blissful indulgence and un-paralleled learning
and networking opportunities.
From 2013, SIGEP will be held parallel to A.B Tech Expo, the
International Baking and Technology Exhibition for Bakery,
Pastry and Confectionery making it an even bigger exposition
with more opportunities to compete, learn and grow!
Many exhibitors chose to showcase the provenance of their
products and wanted visitors to know they were the real deal.
The Valhrona chocolate stand featured everything from raw
products to beautifully finished ready-to-eat chocolates and
CHEF! Issue 29 | 41
interest
Going Back to our
Jodi-Ann Pearton
Africa may be known as the Dark Continent, but
Jodi-Ann Pearton believes that it is full of diversity,
cultural heritage and magical culinary beauty.
Over the next few editions we are going
to discover how this beautiful continent
with 52 different countries and hence 52
completely unique culinary fingerprints
can enhance and enrich our menus
and lives. With the emerging culture of
media and television very little is left
to be discovered but yet we have not
tapped into the culture rainbow that
our continent has to give to the plates in
our establishments. It is time to find our
roots and call upon our forefathers to
assist in making African cuisine the King.
There are many factors affecting the
cuisine in our land and of those factors
I’d like to begin with the most obvious
one which is cost. Due to poverty
millions of individuals struggle for every
mouthful of food and although this is
a harrowing and desperate issue what
it does mean is that there is a unique
element of creativity in the cuisine
consumed. Individuals rely on the
lay and bounty of the land to eat and
survive. Many first world countries are
striving towards achieving trends such as
locality, farm to fork, seasonal produce,
organic and so forth. But when one lives
in Africa all of this is the natural flow of
life, is it not great to know that we are
ahead of the curve, we are the founders
of the 20th century food trend to be
green!
One of the greatest pleasures associated
with African cuisine is the fact that food
and eating is not merely to fill the belly
to many people, it is about ritual and
heritage. Food is a celebration of love, life
and gratitude. With this ethos in mind
one can only imagine how superb the
food must be.
If we look at ingredients upon the
doorstep of many African’s we find
glorious items such as morogo which is a
spinach-like weed found in the Southern
parts of the continent, and madumbe,
otherwise known as the African potato
42 | CHEF! Issue 29
Roots
is a small tuber with a delicious umami
flavor. Plantain – a big, starchy fruit
used to extend and thicken dishes; okra
or ladies fingers which add a glutinous
characteristic to dishes. How about
ditloo or wild beans which are harvested
and sundried and then used as pulses and
of course maize in many applications?
These are just a few of the glorious and
unique flavours we have and can tap into.
When we investigate a little further we
see that many crops and products are
preserved and cured in innovative ways
to extend their shelf life. The temperature
in Africa fluctuates immensely and
by salting, drying, curing, pickling,
ingredients are protected from these
conditions. The ability to innovate with
preserving adds an element of unique
flavor combinations and textures into
various dishes. The process also allows
one to travel vast distances with products
and be sure that seasonal crops last.
Food items and ingredients are never
wasted. The usage of meat products from
nose to tail is a well utilised and known
fact throughout the continent. Food and
especially meat products are very hard to
come by, very expensive and symbolise
wealth so wastage in turn means greed
which is frowned upon. Left overs are
recycled into the next meal and reworked to be unique and filling.
Notoriously, African-inspired food is
incredibly flavoursome and fragrant due
to the utilisation of many fresh herbs and
spices. The utilisation of these gorgeous
fragrants with localised cookery methods
makes Africa a very exciting place to
begin a culinary extravaganza. In future
pieces I would like to explore each region
of Africa and it’s localised wealth and
begin to tap into the resource of cultural
and ethnic culinary heritage that which
we as South Africans are blessed to have.
I look forward to each of you joining me
on this journey!
Chermoula Fish
Ingredients:
4 x 175g firm fish fillets such as tuna
or small whole fish
For the Chermoula:
25g freshly chopped coriander 10ml toasted cumin seeds
10ml cayenne pepper 10ml sweet paprika 4 garlic cloves 1 lemon, juice 30ml olive oil 7ml sea salt
•Place all the ingredients for the
chermoula into a food processor and
process until well blended but still
relatively chunky. If you don’t have a
food processor then use a pestle and
mortar.
•Rub the chermoula over the tuna
steaks on both sides, place in a
shallow dish, cover and marinate for
at least 2 hours, turning from time
to time.
•Place the fillets onto a baking tray
and bake at 200°C until just cooked
through (approx 8 – 10 minutes)
•Serve with coriander leaves.
sponsors
Sponsors
The South African Chefs Association gratefully acknowledges the following sponsors and patrons
that have made the everyday running of the Association and its subsidiaries possible. Without you,
we would not be where we are today. We are honoured by your investment in our organisation and
we thank you for your loyal partnership.
TM
Eat better. Live better.
CHEF! Issue 29 | 43
interest
Conversations with Chefs:
Food Critics
The role of food critics and their interaction with
chefs and restaurateurs was recently debated at the first
Conversations with Chefs event. The platform for debate
was provided by Tiger Brands Out of Home Solutions and
was held at the Radisson Park Inn in Sandton.
Over 40 chefs gathered to enjoy breakfast and enter into the debate, the
guest speaker of which was Hilary Biller, editor of the Sunday Times Food
Weekly. On the panel were Saul Mervis (The Grillhouse), Mark Cameron
(Doppio Zero), Coco Reinharz (Sel et Poivre), Obakeng Leepile (Green Room
Productions and Vulcan Catering Equipment), Gianni Mariano (Mastrantonio),
Julian Cohen (Food & Beverage Manager of Sandton Sun) and Wandile Ndala
(Wandie’s Place).
Hilary Biller started the ball rolling by comparing AA Gill, one of the world’s
most renowned food critics who’s scathing reviews have earned 63 complaints
against him in the last three years, and the Michelin guide reviewers who are
trained to be anonymous, banned from speaking to journalists and eat at a
restaurant a few times a year before compiling their results. The well-known food
critic compared with the anonymous critic. AA Gill wrote a dreadful review of
Chef Yotam Ottolenghi’s restaurant Nopi, but the review didn’t dampen patrons’
enthusiasm for the place so much as encourage more people to visit there. This led
to the question – is bad publicity better than no publicity? Mark Cameron thinks
that it is, citing a terrible review that Victor Strugo wrote about a restaurant that
was subsequently full for the following two weeks. Hilary then added that reviews
start conversations, whether good or bad.
Many of the panellists agreed that there is a need for food critics, provided they
have experience and know what they are talking about. Gianni Mariano added
that there was only one traditional way to cook pasta, but thousands of ways
that others prefer it – he cooks pasta the traditional way and hopes that food
critics that come into his restaurant recognise that. Critics must have a working
knowledge and experience of food, wine and trends. When the food critic is
experienced, the review is seen to be like constructive criticism rather than slander.
Gianni also said that a plate of food is a moment made up of thousands of
different elements, and one should not try to find the truth in that one moment.
Mark Cameron said that the old adage rings true – bad news travels faster than
good and Julian Cohen believes that food critics are a necessary evil but that there
should always be honesty and integrity in what they write. Saul Mervis said that
the real critic is the customer and the bank manager – if your restaurant is full,
then people are telling you that you’ve done something right. Hilary Biller agreed,
44 | CHEF! Issue 29
saying that consistency was a restaurateurs’
biggest problem, but that if they are
consistently good then customers will
continue to visit the restaurant.
When the topic of social media was
brought up, Mike Said from Brand
Strategy, who was in the audience, said that
establishments looked out for one review
in print while ignoring the online reviews
and recommendations. He said that social
media has a bigger reach and can be used
more often. Adding that the media cannot
be controlled, Mike said that one of the
ways to use social media to one’s benefit
would be to join the conversation. Gianni
Mariano agreed and said that social media
worked the same way as real life and that
every customer should be treated like a
food critic because with social media, that’s
what they are.
Gianni also added that chefs should stand
at the door of their restaurant and look
inwards, because if there are bad reviews,
the problems are inside the restaurant, not
out. Mark Cameron and Julian Cohen
both agreed that the best food critic is
the one that allowed them to redress the
situation if a problem arises, and when
Mark asked how chefs can respond to food
critics Hilary said that the response should
be in their improved food and service.
She urges chefs to believe in themselves
and their food, and to take criticism
constructively.
The suggestion was made to create a
forum between food critics and chefs so
that problems can be addressed and right
of reply can be organised. However, at
the end of the day as Obakeng said, food
critics are here to stay – but so are chefs.
Tips for
In celebration of Hostex, SA’s premier
hospitality expo, we chat to four chefs and ask
them for their cooking demonstration advice.
Successful Demonstrations
Edward Clegg
Dinner Boyz
• Keep a clear head and remain focused.
• Have a clear vision of what you want to do.
• Work to a plan, know what time you have and work clean.
• Do not pay attention to distracting things that are going on around you – if you do, you will find
yourself second guess everything you are doing.
• Know your ingredients and show skill in everything you do – confidence is a good weapon to have.
Obakeng Leepile
Green Room Productions
• Know your recipe and practise it beforehand. There is nothing worse than cooking and an
unexpected outcome throws you off. Cooking live like cooking professionally is meticulously
timed, costed and, more importantly, there is an audience waiting for the final presentation.
• Look up any interesting facts about the recipe or ingredients. Because cooking takes the time
that it does, and you have an audience watching, your interaction with them becomes crucial.
Keep them entertained, fascinated and informed.
• Stay calm. There’s no need to be nervous, otherwise you will make mistakes or even cut yourself
in front of the audience.
• Choose the right recipe. As cooking takes time, and you only have an allocated time to do the
presentation, choose a dish that fits the requirements and the time allocated.
• Remember the audience – involve and inform them as you progress, but stay focussed on the
fact that you are cooking for the audience’s viewing pleasure so talk, tell them what you are
doing as you do it so that they have an understand of the dish when they finally get to taste it.
Stacey Chan
Smeg
• Always have your ingredients prepped – you don’t want your audience to get bored.
• Always try to engage the audience by making them come up and cook, or ask them questions.
• Be 100% sure about what you are demonstrating so that you can answer any question asked.
• Try to make your demonstrations longer than 45 minutes and give the audience extra
information about the food items as you go.
• Demonstrate something that can be redone and made at home by the general public or with the
aid of a recipe – you want them to try make what you have made.
Thandi Maphai
HTA School of Culinary Art
• Prep, prep, prep! I can’t stress this enough – you need to get there way before your allocated
time so that you can get all your Mise en Place done, or make sure that you’ve done it all
before you reach the venue.
• Familiarise yourself with the equipment and utensils in your demonstration area and where
they are, as you don’t want to be caught off guard when you can’t find something.
• Be friendly with your assistants and guide them as they are there to assist and learn from you.
I remember I once had a demo at the Rand Show and one of my assistants took the rice I had
cooked backstage, and there I was, running around looking for the rice, pressed for time!
• Engage with your audience at all times – you’re the main star of the show and they are there
to watch and be ‘menutained’ by you.
• Relax, breathe (not into the mic, of course!) and have fun. Your passion is cooking and chefs
are born entertainers, so it should come naturally to you.
CHEF! Issue 29 | 45
food feature
Cape
Winelands Cuisine
The Cape Winelands in the Western Cape is a real cornucopia of cultures made up of the many nationalities
who journeyed to this area from afar to start new lives. This history is reflected in the cuisine, and Hetta
van Deventer has done a phenomenal job in giving us access to recipes that are based on traditional dishes
cooked in the area. Hetta is La Motte’s culinary manager and she worked alongside the wine estate’s head
Chef de Cuisine Chris Erasmus and Sous Chef Michelle Theron, with the historic foundation provided by
Dr Hester W. Claassens. Cape Winelands Cuisine is a delight to read not only because of the interesting
and beautiful recipes, but also because of the history that is at the forefront of each dish. The following
recipes and photographs are extracts from Cape Winelands Cuisine.
Win a copy of Cape Winelands Cuisine!
To win a copy of Cape Winelands, just send the answer to the following question to
Sarah at [email protected].
Which wine estate does Hetta van Deventer work for as Culinary Manager?
Cape Winelands is published by Human & Rousseau and retails for R450. Photographs were taken by Mickey Hoyle.
Oblietjies
The Dutch brought oblietjies to the Cape. Initially these small waffles were baked in a small iron
pan with a lid, called an oblie-yster (oblie iron). The pan usually had an engraved pattern, which
decorated the oblietjies and made them look like little works of art. Because the oblie iron was
used on an open fire, it had a very long handle, which made it heavy and difficult to manipulate.
When stoves with ovens became commonplace at the Cape, oblietjies were baked on a baking tray
in the oven and oblie irons and oblietjies along with them went out of fashion. Today, many South
Africans do not realise that the erstwhile oblietjies and brandy snaps are the same thing.
Makes: 24 large
2 eggs
2 tsp (10 ml) pounded naartjie peel
2 tsp (10 ml) ground cinnamon
1 cup (250 ml) butter, melted
1. Preheat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F).
2. Beat the eggs and sugar together.
Allow to rest for 10 minutes.
3. Add the peel, wine and cinnamon.
4. Sift the flour and fold in alternately
with the melted butter.
5. Roll the dough into little balls
(about the size of a teaspoon) and
arrange on a greased baking tray,
about 3 cm apart. Bake for 10–12
minutes.
6. As soon as they come out of the
oven, roll up immediately into
46 | CHEF! Issue 28
2¼ cups (560 ml) brown sugar
1 glass (120 ml) sweet wine
2 cups (500 ml) cake flour
little horn shapes or use the handle
of a wooden spoon to make cigar
shapes. It is best to do only two at a
time, as you have to work quickly.
If they become too hard and cold
to roll, you can put them back into
the oven for a few minutes.
7. If using an oblie iron, place the
dough ball in the centre of the hot
iron, press lightly and hold until
crisp.
8. Serve filled with whipped cream
and preserved ginger or fresh figs.
Oyster and Marrow Pies
During Jan van Riebeeck's time at the Cape, cooking with marrow as a replacement for butter, fat or oil wasn't seen as the luxury it is
today; in fact, it was a favoured ingredient. Serve these pies as a starter for a gourmet dinner, or make bite-sized pies and serve as canapés.
Makes:12–15 small pies
1 Tbsp (15 ml) butter
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tsp (5 ml) smoked sweet
paprika (optional)
pinch of cayenne pepper
¼ tsp (1 ml) chopped fresh ginger
½ cup (125 ml) dry white wine
½ cup (125 ml) sherry
1 tsp (5 ml) fish sauce
½ cup (125 ml) currants
1½ cups (375 ml) shucked
oysters, juice reserved
½ cup (125 ml) veal marrow (roasted, removed from bone
and diced)
zest of 1 lemon
1 cup (250 ml) fish stock
2½ tsp (12.5 ml) cornflour or potato flour
1 Tbsp (15 ml) chopped fresh parsley
600 g flaky pastry, rolled 4 mm thick and cut into 8 cm circles
1 egg, beaten with 1 tsp (5 ml) water, for brushing pastry
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (425 °F)
1. Heat a frying pan, brown the butter and add the onion,
garlic, spices and ginger and reduce the heat to low. Sweat
until the onion is tender.
2. Add the white wine, sherry and fish sauce and cook until
syrupy.
3. Add the currants, oysters and their juice, marrow, lemon
zest and fish stock and bring to a boil.
4. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Slake the cornflour or potato flour with 1 tsp (5 ml) cold
water, add to the saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes until
thick. Leave to cool and then add the parsley.
6. Brush the surface of each pastry square with the egg wash.
Place two heaped tablespoons of filling in the centre, fold
the pastry over and secure the edges with a pinch.
7. Brush with egg wash and bake for about 25 minutes until
golden.
CHEF! Issue 28 | 47
food feature
Offal Sult
Sult (brawn) was a dish traditionally prepared on the day the animal was slaughtered. In Europe, pig’s head and trotters were used to
make sult, while at the Cape, where mutton was mainly on offer, sheep’s offal with extra mutton added, constituted the main ingredients.
After the arrival of the French Huguenots in the late seventeenth century, offal was often prepared by cooking sheep’s tripe together with
the head and trotters, and thus the tripe became part of the sult.
Serves: 12
1 pig’s head, cleaned
1 pork hock, smoked
4 sheep’s trotters
2 Tbsp (30 ml) coarse sea salt
40 cups (10 litres) water
4 carrots, washed and chopped in big chunks
2 onions, peeled and quartered
1 stalk celery, washed and chopped into 4 pieces
¼-piece whole nutmeg
1 Tbsp (15 ml) black peppercorns
1 Tbsp (15 ml) coriander seeds
3 bay leaves
10 whole cloves
4 whole allspice
3 Tbsp (45 ml) white wine vinegar
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 Tbsp (15 ml) fresh picked thyme
½ tsp (2.5 ml) freshly ground black pepper
salt
6 hard-boiled eggs, grated (optional)
1 Tbsp (15 ml) chopped fresh parsley (optional)
48 | CHEF! Issue 28
1. Place the cleaned pig’s head, hock and trotters with the salt in a very
large saucepan and cover with the water. Bring to the boil, reduce the
heat and simmer for 1 hour, skimming all the time.
2. Add the carrots, onions and celery. Place the nutmeg, peppercorns,
coriander seeds, bay leaves, cloves and allspice in a muslin bag. Add
to the saucepan with the vinegar and simmer for 2–3 hours more
until the meat is tender and half the liquid has evaporated.
3. Cool slightly and remove the head, hock and trotters. Pick all the
meat off the bones and cut into small cubes. Set aside.
4. Strain the cooking liquid. Keep the fat that solidifies on the top as it
cools. (If you want to keep this fat refrigerated for a long time, cover
with a layer of fat that has been strained through muslin cloth.)
5. Add the garlic, thyme and pepper to the strained liquid, and simmer
until reduced by half. Add salt to taste. Combine the cooked and
picked meat and eggs and parsley (if using) in a bowl and season
lightly with salt and pepper.
6. Line a large rectangular mould or loaf pan with plastic wrap and
press the meat mixture into the mould. Pour the strained liquid over
and refrigerate for a minimum of 12 hours.
7. Serve with capers, stewed sour apples, boerejongens (brandied
grapes) and Cape ham.
Cape Bokkom Salad
According to G.D.J. Schotel, bokkom (dried harder or mullet) is a
Dutch word used during the seventeenth century to refer to smoked
as well as dried herring. Fish with the head, stomach and scales
intact were stacked in layers with salt in-between and left for 24
hours, where after they were hung up to dry out. Various fish species
were dried in this way, of which harder (mullet) was the most
popular. Many people from other parts of South Africa and overseas
first get to know the unusual taste of bokkoms while visiting the
Cape. Those who have a good teacher to show them how to clean a
bokkom easily, will soon be asking for more of this delicacy. It makes
for an appetising starter when halfdried and quickly grilled over the
coals.
Jan van Riebeeck’s granddaughter wrote to her mother in Batavia in
1710 and mentioned that she prepared bokkoms with parsley butter.
She was probably referring to half-dried bokkoms that were lightly
pan-fried.
Serves: 3
Dressing:
2 egg yolks
1 tsp (5 ml) chopped garlic (wild garlic if possible)
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon juice
1 cup (250 ml) finely grated matured pecorino cheese
pinch of salt
1 tsp (5 ml) Dijon mustard
1 tsp (5 ml) fresh cream
2 anchovy fillets, pounded to a paste
1¼ cups (300 ml) oil (grapeseed oil or a mild olive oil blend)
¼ cup (60 ml) fish stock or tomato juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Salad:
200 g mixed lettuce
1 bokkom fillet, cut into very fine strips
¼ cup (60 ml) sun-dried tomatoes
¼ cup (60 ml) shaved pecorino cheese
¼ cup (60 ml) flaked almonds, toasted
12 semi hard-boiled quail's eggs, halved
50 g dried apricots, chopped
¼ cup (60 ml) dressing
¼ cup (60 ml) croutons
For the Dressing:
Place the egg yolks, garlic, lemon juice, pecorino, salt, mustard,
cream and anchovy paste in a bowl.
Whisk and add the oil a few drops at a time until all is
emulsified.
Add the stock or juice a little at a time until the dressing achieves
the desired thickness. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
For the Salad:
Place the lettuce in a bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients,
except the croutons, and toss using your hands. Rub the dressing
over the leaves. Sprinkle the croutons over the top and serve.
masterclass
NeapolitanRagu'
Fortunato Mazzone of Restaurant Ritrovo shows us how to make this typical Neapolitan Sunday dish.
Traditionally the dish is enjoyed by the whole family with the rich meat sauce first being served on
pasta (preferably hand-broken ziti or rigatoni) as the starter. The meats must be sliced onto a serving
dish and enjoyed with a vinegary green salad on the side when served as a main course. This dish takes
time and patience but the results are worth it. Remember, you are cooking two courses in one. This is
not delicate food but earthy comfort food that never fails to satisfy – real food.
How to Joint and Prepare a Rabbit
When preparing rabbit it is extremely important to remove all traces of fat from the
carcass because when it’s cooked it releases a rancid flavour. It is also important to
use a flexible and extremely sharp utility knife as this makes life a lot easier. Below
Fortunato has demonstrated how to remove the hind legs and flank as those are the
only rabbit pieces required for the dish, but the front legs can be removed in the same
way that the hind legs are.
• Firstly, remove the rabbit’s head.
• Take your skinned rabbit and lay it on its back. Bend one of the hind legs back
towards the chopping board until you’re basically dislocating the hip joint.
• Slice straight through the flesh until your knife meets the cartilage of the joint and
then cut through the cartilage.
• When through to the other side, slice through the rest of the meat down to the
chopping board. Trim off the excess cartilage and neaten the cut.
• When the leg has been removed, you can bend back the remaining joint, snapping it
and then forcibly pull out the bone. Repeat the process on the other leg.
• Remove the front legs by cutting through the cartilage at the joint closest to the body.
• Cut through the abdomen flesh, moving the knife back towards the spine and around
the back of the lowest rib. When you reach the spine, follow it towards the neck
hugging the spine and carefully cutting the meat away from the bone until the entire
flank is removed. Repeat on the other side.
• Once all of the pieces are separated, it is very important to go over them with your
knife and remove all pieces of fat, sinew and membrane. If need be, slide the tip of the
knife under the skin to get the embedded pieces that are visible under the surface.
9
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The Recipe
Fortunato stresses that the cooking process for this recipe must
be slow and gentle – add the wine slowly, drop by drop, so that it
doesn’t boil the meat and keep the heat low, making sure you don’t
burn any of the ingredients.
Good extra virgin olive oil
4 x 400g tins of italian peeled tomatoes chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
½ bottle good robust red wine
1 large onion, diced
2-3 sticks celery, diced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
1kg whole sirloin
8 salsicce (Italian sausage made with fennel) or good coarse pork sausage
1 chicken on the bone, jointed
2 joints of rabbit, very well trimmed
Handful of fresh basil
1. In a medium sautée pan, braise the diced carrots, onions, garlic
and celery on a moderate heat until glossy. It is important that
they do not burn. Set aside.
Chef Fortunato Mazzone,
along with his father
Giovanni, is at the helm
of Ristorante Ritrovo
in Waterkloof Heights,
Pretoria. The restaurant is
renowned for its traditional
Italian fare and has been
tempting food lovers for
over 15 years.
2. Very carefully trim the rabbit joints of all fat. If this is not done
properly it adds an unwanted, unpleasant flavour (see section
on how to joint and clean a rabbit).
3. Place the whole sirloin, chicken and rabbit in a large pot with
the sausage and cook in around 100ml of pre heated olive oil,
slowly turning over until lightly browned and sealed.
4. Add the braised aromatics to the pot and stir, adding some
seasoning at this point
5. Add the wine slowly in drops into the pot stirring and
reducing constantly until all the alcohol has evaporated and
the sauce is reaching a nice thick dark consistency at the base
of the pot.
6. At this point add the tomato paste and stir in. Cook for
a further 5 minutes stirring continuously to prevent any
burning. The emphasis must be on a gentle cooking process
with respect for your ingredients.
7. Place the peeled tomatoes into a bowl and pulp them by
hand. Add the basil torn by hand and season to taste with sea
salt and black pepper. Add the pulp to the pot and allow to
simmer slowly for two hours. Do a final seasoning of sea salt
and black pepper to taste.
8. The meat should now be dissolving into the sauce and the
sauce should have thickened and browned to a rich deep
colour of good burgundy.
9. Just before serving add a few more fresh basil leaves. Cook
the pasta separately al dente and serve with generous helpings
of the sauce. Use good Parmigiano Reggiano to complement
the flavour of the dish.
10.Place all the meat on a platter sliced and full of the delicious
sauce and serve with hand-sliced cross cut fried potatoes and
a very vinegary green salad.
CHEF! Issue 26 | 51
SACA
Zola Luwaca
Z
Netcare
ola studied a National Diploma in Food Service Management at the Walter
Sisulu University. She did her In-Service –Training at Netcare –Unitas in
Centurion and was permanently employed in 2001. Zola was a finalist in
Netcare Chef of The Year (2005) and crowned Netcare Baker of the Year twice.
What is your philosophy on food?
Do not mess with your ingredients, love
them.
What is your fondest memory in the
kitchen?
Passion and a love for food
The moment when it was announced
that I had won the Netcare Baker of the
Year 2006
Globally, which chef do you admire?
What do you eat for breakfast?
Charlie Trotter
Toast and Coffee
If you couldn’t be a chef, which
profession would you take up?
What is the one dish you find
difficult to get right?
Social Work or Interior Design
Creme Brulée
Other than food and cooking, what
inspires you?
Who is your most influential
historical figure?
Seeing our beautiful country represented
by our national teams
Tata Nelson Mandela
What inspired you to become a chef?
What do you never cook?
Malamogodu (tripe)
Sticky Lamb ribs
800g lamb ribs
5g Robertsons Thyme
20g Robertsons Barbeque spice
¼ cup of orange juice
¼ cup of lemon juice
Mustard powder
Soy sauce Honey
3 garlic cloves
1. Mix all the ingredients together, heating them slowly on the stove so that the
ingredients mix together easily.
2. Chop the garlic and add to the mixture.
3. Leave the marinade for about 20 minutes so that the sauce’s flavours develop.
4. Preheat the oven to 200°C and line a roasting pan with foil.
5. Arrange the ribs in the pan in a single layer. Pour the marinade over the ribs and
bake for 15 minutes.
6. Reduce the temperature to 180°C and bake for a further 30-40 minutes until
brown and crispy.
52 | CHEF! Issue 28
Allister Esau
Allister Esau is serving his second term as an
elected member of the South African Chefs
Association Board of Directors and works at
BOSASA.
How did you get started as a chef?
I worked during holidays in a restaurant based in England
in the scullery and found that I liked cooking and the kitchen
environment.
Why did you want to become a chef and how did you
train?
The art of food attracted me - I love seeing people smile when
they eat my food. I trained in South Africa at H.I.T.B.
Who is your culinary inspiration?
When I first started cooking it was Escoffier, but now it’s
Gordon Ramsay.
What is your role at Bosasa and what is the best thing
about working there?
My position at BOSASA is that of General Manager. I oversee all
hospitality, events, offices, research and development, and group
chef. The best thing about working for BOSASA is working
with the likes of Mr Gavin Watson and Mr Angelo Agrizzi –
they have given me the opportunity to grow and develop in the
corporate world. Since I began working at BOSASA, I have
found that the leadership recognises the potential for the teams
to produce superior results over what team members could
achieve as individuals. This value is at the heart of our group
vision and we call it synergy. BOSASA is an empowerment
group and the company believes that people must work in
an environment where they feel able to make decisions that
contribute to customer satisfaction and performance of the
group.
Is there a young up-and-coming chef in SA that you feel
we should look out for?
This is a difficult question as there are many talented chefs in
SA. One of these chefs for me would be Abubaker Bagaria from
Culinary Team SA.
If you could eat at one restaurant in the world, where
would it be?
It would be El Bulli.
Most memorable meal?
Eating at Jamie Oliver’s restaurant in England and the Balata
restaurant at the Fairway Hotel this year.
What is the biggest mistake that you see being made
in kitchens?
The lack of kitchen professionalism and Mise en Place.
What is your most embarrassing culinary moment?
During the opening dinner for a hotel in 1999 we served
salmon and cream cheese timbale as starters – they were
slightly frozen and of the 300 that went out, 120 came back.
What is your number one advice to young student
chefs?
Keep it simple and fresh, live the passion of cooking.
What do you hope to achieve as a board member of
SACA?
Making the public aware of the great chefs we have in South
Africa.
CHEF! Issue 28 | 53
Board Memeber
Meet
Competitions
The Next Step
Many people think that once your entry is in the journey is over.
This is not however true at all. Rather – this is where the journey begins!
Once you have entered it is time to begin planning.
Planning is one of the key areas for success when
approaching anything in life, not just competition
cookery. Let us begin with the basics. If you have
entered a pre-planned menu competition, begin
practicing your menu. Prepare one course at a time
and work on the following components of the dish:
Flavour Colour Texture Height
Wow
Factor
Once you have perfected the preparation of each
dish then you can begin worrying about the plating
style and technique. At this point ask for advice.
Find yourself a mentor – pick their brain! The
hardest part of this is being able to take constructive
criticism without being emotional about it.
If you have entered a mystery basket competition
– all the more fun. The planning and preparation
process is much more intense and you really need to
do your homework before arriving to competition
day.
Find a small book and at the top of each page write
the name of an ingredient and then list as many cuts
and cookery methods that you can possibly think
of in a table below it. Then list as many starches,
vegetables and sauces that you can think of next
to each cooking method (see diagram). Utilise
textbooks, cookery books and the Internet to assist
you. This book should be a reference guide for the
rest of your career and should help you in every day
food preparation.
In the same book diarise all the flavor combinations
that will work together. For example:
BEEF
Parsnip
Potato
Rosemary
Thyme
Bay
Red wine
Tomato
etc
Every time you come across a great pairing, record
it. It may be something really unusual and may
be the difference between winning and losing a
competition.
54 | CHEF! Issue 26
29
Balance
BEEF:
COOKING
METHOD
Chuck Braise
CUT
Fillet
VEGETABLES
carrots
sauted greens
steamed veg
SAUCES
braising
liquor
jus
Mince
Steam
Pot-roast
etc
Roast
As above
As above
As above
As above
roasted vegetables jus
sautéed spinach
gastrique
glazed vegetables reduction
Pan fry
Cure
Tartare
Carpaccio
etc
As above
As above
As above
As above
As above
STARCHES
Pomme puree
Polenta
Risotto
etc
dauphinoise
pave
puree
etc
It is now time to begin cooking. Purchase ingredients and play. Refer
back to your food diary and prepare various ingredients in different
ways so that you begin to see how various produce reacts to different
cookery methods.
Ask your colleagues, mentors and chefs to challenge you with different
mystery ingredients for single dishes. Build single dishes into meals.
A really good way to practice is to ask your chef if you can prepare staff
meal for a few weeks. There are usually many different ingredients that
often deem challenging. Utilise this time to push yourself and to learn.
Remember that in these early stages, it is challenging but you will
never learn unless you are pushed out of your comfort zone!
World Association of Chefs Societies
Spotlight on Britain
We chat to Mark Houghton, a member of the World Association of
Chefs Societies and British Culinary Federation committee, about
how the England’s hospitality industry is preparing for the Olympics.
Mark is the Executive Chef of the University of Birmingham.
The University of Birmingham is
hosting the Jamaican athletic team
as their pre games training camp
(competitors and their entourage)
therefore we are having to cater for 75
persons for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
We currently cater for many Caribbean
weddings and have many staff of
Jamaican origin, we have not needed
to research too hard on Jamaican food.
All the usual ingredients is available in
Birmingham, however Grace Foods of
Jamaica are helping sponsor the team so
will be supplying us with some of their
products. They are also sending over
an advisory chef on the teams likes and
dislikes along with helping us plan daily
menus.
The hospitality industry has been
planning their contribution to the
Olympics for many months, not only in
London but all across the country where
other disciplines will be held. The main
focus is on British ingredients (where
special ingredients are not required) and
to promote the best of British produce.
This will be mainly highlighted in the
Olympic village.
this year has been moved to the weeks
in July and August. This again promotes
British ingredients from all areas of the
UK and focuses on locally produced
products from any farms within the
area your restaurant is situated. The
Olympics is celebrated across all the UK
and not just in England as the team that
represents us is of course team Great
Britain.
The current trend in addition to the
above is for dishes to have a British or
Olympic theme such as Great British
cup cakes with union jacks on or dishes
including gold, silver or bronze themes.
Also during the Olympics the British
Food Fortnight will be run nationally.
This normally runs during October but
Of course, the main British dishes that
will be emphasised during the games
are the old favourites such as fish and
chips, meat pies, roast beef and Yorkshire
pudding etc. but I suppose a healthy
option such a freshly poached salmon
will need to be included to help promote
sports and its healthy life style.
Chefs of Distinction
Heinz Brunner
In this section we chat with past SACA President,
Honourary Life President Heinz Brunner, Heinz
Brunner about his experiences with and memories
of the South African Chefs Association. He served
as President from 2002 to 2003.
What events and experiences
stand out in your mind from
your 38 year involvement in
the Association?
Gee Whiz - has it been that
long? One forgets , although I
guess my wife will remember!
There are so many and too many
to mention, however for me
the ‘88 WACS World Congress
in South Africa is and always
will be one of the highlights.
Against all odds we pulled it
off and people are still today
talking about it. The other experience which was invaluable
was when SA was elected as the WACS Presidency – Bill
Gallagher, Brian McCune and myself. It was four years of fun
and some of the greatest times I’ve ever had. Thank you.
How has being a part of SACA affected your life both
personally and career wise?
I’ve been involved in Culinary Team South Africa,
international judging, made friends, networked, travelled
– many great days and nights! If it weren’t for all of these
elements, I don’t think I would have achieved what I have.
What do you think SACA could do to further enhance its
role and position in the Hospitality Industry?
I believe that what the team is doing under the leadership of
President Billingham is great - we were always referring to the
little corner shop takeaway, then we grew into a Supermarket
in our day - well it has now become a Walmart! Just look at
the relationship with the Department of Tourism and the
training being done - great Work that needs to carry on. It is
now a business.
What advice do you have for members of our industry
that are hesitant to sign up to the Association?
SACA is the right association to join if you are serious about
the Industry - there should be no need for hesitation. It is the
body to belong to and if it did for me what it did, can you
imagine what it can do for you? Just do it.
CHEF! Issue 29 | 55
Chef
Wineinterest
Profile
World
Pizza e Vino
Not all relationships in life work the way we expect them to. Travels
across six countries recently revealed many different pairings when it
comes to an old favourite: pizza!
In Rome, you might be hard pressed to find one of the locals knocking
back vino in a pizzeria as beer is definitely the standard when it comes
to the humble pizza pie. Although, when the question was posed
to fellow diners as we ate our way through pizza paradise, “What
wine do you prefer with your pizza?”, the answers were sometimes
predictable, always passionate, often shouted and yet there was no
consensus. I found that some colleagues preferred the crisp acidity of
young white wines and others sought ‘Italian reds’ as a generic answer
or one friend in particular, whose response to every pairing request
was Champagne. Then there were the varietal answers – wine varieties
that hinged upon the choice of topping on said pizza - from Aglianico
to Chianti to Dolcetto to Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d’Avola on
to Sauvignon Blanc (for a veggie pizza) and eventually Zinfandel.
In the responses to my rather innocuous question was a tell-tale
pointer: the wine you often choose to enjoy with a pizza is in no small
part related to how you adorn the pizza. A friendly gentleman in Italy
offered some pearls of wisdom when I tried to order a fancy Italian
wine with my pizza “Signora, donta order da vino more expensive
dan da pizza!”
All pizza tasted on this journey was made fresh to order in a pizzeria
or establishment that specialised in making pizzas. None was ordered
as the eponymous take-away or arrived at a hotel room door, cold
and soggy with unrecognisable toppings and goo barely resembling
cheese. Nor were any of the pizzas frozen and reheated to approximate
the real deal. Choosing either of the aforementioned options should
carry the requisite health warnings!
Questions about food and wine parings or just want an
excuse to enjoy a glass of wine Contact Cape Wine Master’s
student and chef, Debi van Flymen at [email protected].
56 | CHEF! Issue 28
Ordering a pizza laden with
meat? Why not try a bottle of
indigenous Pinotage like the
2011 Winery of Good Hope
Bush Vine Pinotage, a real
bargain at R52 a bottle. Loads of
juicy cherry fruit, mineral notes
and a nice spice make this a great
mouthful. It’s a no-nonsense,
easy-drinking, well made wine
that even stands up to some spice
on that pizza. Chill it down a bit
before serving too. Nice to find
a local wine that over delivers at
this price point!
How about a pizza with
mushrooms and more traditional
toppings? Try something really
different and interesting like
Terre Nere’s Etna Rosso grown
in vineyards ranging from 40 to
140 years of age on the slopes of
a live volcano! The acid structure
here really makes this a terrific
choice and the fruit profile is
similar to Pinot Noir in some
respects – think raspberries and
sour cherries, some strawberries
and perfume with an underlying
savoury or herbal note. Delicious
and imported by Wine Cellar at
R125 a bottle.
And for those of you
thinking pizza bianco – sans
the tomato sauce, or a pizza
with vegetables - look no
further than Oak Valley’s
Chardonnay. It is worth the
investment at R150 a bottle
and will show you that the
balance of acid and ripe fruit
with just the right amount of
oak can produce a delightful
white wine for your pizza
pairing. The peach and citrus
notes give a nice lift and the
hint of honey helps it pair
well with rocket on the pizza
too. A great treat!
In 2002, Swiss-trained winemaker Jean-Claude Martin and his wife Carolyn established the maiden
vineyards on an exquisitely beautiful piece of the world – the Hemel-en-Aarde ridge near Hermanus. The
wine estate boasts 22 ha of vines planted in virgin soils and produces grapes for a variety of exclusive, choice
wines that are quickly gaining popularity in SA.
The estate enjoys cool maritime
conditions from its close proximity to
the sea. With heavy, water-retaining clay
soils, minimal irrigation is needed and
the soils even add to the fine texture and
structure of the wines.
The estate produces nine wines and was
the first winery in the region to grow
and produce a Bordeaux-style blend,
the first with a Grenache vineyard and
also the first to produce a single-variety
Viognier and Semillon. The farm is a
member of the Biodiversity & Wine
initiative (BWI) and is committed to
conserving its natural heritage. It does
this by instituting long-term biodiversity
plans and sustainable programmes. The
winery complies with the sustainability
guidelines laid down by the Integrated
Production of Wine (IPW) scheme and
its newest releases proudly boast a ‘green
seal’.
Creation Wines have a proud reputation
for constant innovation, and they have
thus created a unique Food and Wine
Pairing in the winery’s tasting room.
It offers visitors the chance to enjoy
fine wines accompanied by perfectly
matched morsels of food in a beautiful
setting. Next on the menu is a new
experience, the Creation Wine and Éclat
de Chocolate Pairing.
For more information on the estate, visit
www.creationwines.com, email
[email protected] or phone
(028) 212 1107.
Chardonnay 2011: Straw yellow, and on the nose you’ll find layers
of per and peach that are enhanced by minerality and vanilla.
The full-bodied palate is fruity, with acidity, balance and a lively
aftertaste.
Merlot 2010: Fruity and spicy aromas, and on the palate you’ll find
dark chocolate and mocha combined with ripe berry flavours, as
well as a firm structure that oak maturation has given it.
Pinot Noir 2010: Beautifully deep ruby red in colour with an
intense and fragrant bouquet that show red berries, vanilla and
woody spice. The palate holds soft, supple tannins that contribute
to the dense structure.
Sauvignon Blanc 2011: Pale straw yellow in colour, this balanced
wine has aromas of tropical fruit, elderflower and mineral whiffs,
followed through on the palate with crisp, acidity.
Syrah Grenache 2010: Alluring aromas of plum and black olive
are found in this dark purple blend. It’s a well-endowed Rhône-style
blend with supple, ripe tannins.
Viognier 2011: Pale gold and clear
and shiny in the glass – fruity and
forthcoming on the nose with peach
aromas and a creamy character. On
the palate you’ll find crisp minerality
and natural acidity.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit
Verdot 2009: A Bourdeaux-style
blend with a densie, blue-black
colour and sumptuous berry bouquet
with blackberry and blackcurrant
aromas, with a background of smoky
oak. The palate showcases taut,
richly textured tannins and promises
excellent maturation potential.
CHEF! Issue 28 | 57
Wine
interest
ESTATE
Creation Wines
Good
interest
Spirits
World Class
Cocktails
By Ryan Duvenage
The Diageo World Class Program is an international
competition and training program being run in South
Africa by Brandhouse (SA distributors of Diageo brands).
Brandhouse have established a team of some of the best
mixologists in South Africa including Alex Farnell, Gareth
Wainwright and Chantelle Horn, to act as trainers, coaches
and mentors to bartenders at selected venues all over the
country. Each month the venues are trained in a different
category of spirits and are then tasked with creating their own
recipes in a monthly competition. The winners from each
month’s competition (apart from winning some great cash
prizes) will go through regional and National elimination
rounds with the eventual winner representing South Africa
in Brazil at the World Class Finals. Here are a few of the top
recipes produced by local bartenders over the last few months
of competition.
Dutch Courage
Don Picante Del Agua Siyanda Sokhela from the Fairmont
Zimbali won the Tequila category with
his elaborately named Don Picante
Del Agua which highlighted the spicy
notes of reposado Tequila by pairing it
with cinnamon and a hint of chilli.
First up in the Gin category, Selvan
Govender from the Oyster Box Hotel in
Durban impressed us by combining an
extremely unusual selection of ingredients
that surprisingly managed to produce
a balanced and complex cocktail.
• 50ml Tanqueray 10 gin
• 50ml Grapefruit Juice
• 12.5ml Sugar Syrup
• 10ml Campari
• 1 Egg White
1. Combine ingredients with ice in a
cocktail shaker.
2. Shake well and fine strain into a
chilled coupe
3. Garnish with 3 drops of angostura
bitters on top of the drink.
• 50ml Don Julio Tequila
• 12.5ml Grand Marnier
• 25ml Cinnamon Syrup
• 25ml Fresh Lemon Juice Slice Red Chilli
• 50ml Ginger Ale
1. Combine ingredients with ice in a
cocktail shaker.
2. Shake well and fine strain into a rock
glass filled with ice.
3. Garnish with a lemon zest rolled
around a cinnamon stick and a slice
of fresh chilli.
• 40ml Tanqueray No.Ten
• 5ml Pernod
• 15ml Malibu
• 30ml Fresh orange juice
• 10ml Sugar syrup
1. Combine Ingredients with ice in a
cocktail shaker.
2. Shake well and strain into a chilled
martini glass
3. Garnish with a twist of orange peel.
Another outstanding drink in the Gin
category came from Bazil Nsinganu at
Havana Grill. His cocktail is a deliciously
bitter combination of Tanqueray 10, fresh
grapefruit juice and campari, given a silky
smooth texture by the addition of egg white.
Hailing from Durban, Ryan Duvenage has spent 9 years behind the bar and is
bartender, trainer and consultant for the Barcode Bar Academy. He’s twice held
the title of SA National Cocktail Champion, has competed internationally and
placed 7th in the World Finals in Berlin, 2009. Visit www.mobilebars.co.za,
email [email protected] or phone 0861 BARMOBILE.
58 | CHEF! Issue 29
Fantasy Island
Last
interest
word
A Quick Chat with
Vanie Padayachee
We catch up with Chef Vanie
Padayachee as she returns to her
roots and takes up a new role as
Sous Chef at Le Quartier Français
in Franschhoek.
Tell us about your new venture
with Le Quartier Français?
Favourite restaurants locally
and abroad?
Well it feels like coming back home. Much has changed, the staff have grown,
the company has grown, so I have to get
used to a lot of new food and styles of
cooking.
Well, other than Le Quartier Français I’d
say Ginger in Port Elizabeth as I haven’t
travelled abroad in a long time. But
watch this space!
Why did you decide to take
this route?
I have a home here in the village and
wanted to come live in it. I have always
said Franschhoek was home and so was
Le Quartier Français.
What are some of the exciting
projects that you’ll be working
on?
Staff training, cookery classes, Indian
foods and a few more projects that will
be announced soon.
How would you describe your
style of cooking?
It is still the same - Indian with a
modern twist.
What are some of the ‘trends’
that are worth looking into?
And those that aren’t?
Trends are peoples/chefs’ passion. As
you try dishes, you create new trends. Currently, everyone is going back to old
school and favourite dishes from your
childhood are appearing on the menu
and chefs are giving them a modern
twist.
Your best food experience
ever?
Eating in Singapore – it’s a taste
explosion of flavours.
If there was one thing that you
wish all chefs in SA could do
in their kitchens, what would
it be?
Clean, clean, clean and just cook with
passion. Food’s all about creating, taste
and presentation.
Best thing about being a chef
in South Africa?
Using the best local ingredients and
home-grown products. We have so much
on our doorstep, why order and bring in
ingredients from abroad?
What do you do on your offdays?
Chill, read and put my feet up. Catch
up with friends and cook a meal at
home, invite a few friends over for
bubbles and home-cooked curry, or
roasted chicken, gravy and mash. My
comfort foods.
CHEF! Issue 29 | 59
Chef Profile
It’s never too late to
start your Culinary
Career or further
your studies with
Capsicum
The July intake at Capsicum Culinary Studio is around the corner. Now is the
time to further your career or upskill yourself with any of the Internationally
Accredited Programmes at Capsicum.
Capsicum is Southern Africa’s leading
professional Chef and Hospitality
Education and Training Institution and
its professional programmes on offer are
Internationally Accredited by City &
Guilds, allowing graduates entry into the
marketplace anywhere in the world.
National Campuses
Capsicum Culinary Studio, now in its
nineth year of existence, currently has 6
Campuses which are strategically located
in major centres nationally. These include
Boksburg, Johannesburg, Cape Town,
Centurion, Durban and Port Elizabeth.
International Partnerships
Capsicum has an exclusive International
Association with DCT University Center
Switzerland, where Capsicum graduates
can further their studies internationally
and be placed in industry during this time.
Technologically Integrated
Learning Platforms
Capsicum strives to always keep abreast
with the latest trends and is the first
Culinary School to use technologically
60 | CHEF! Issue 28
integrated learning platforms in order to
aid learning in as many ways as possible.
These learning platforms ensure that
the Capsicum students stay current
with global Culinary events, trends and
chefs. In addition, it allows sharing
of experiences between students and
campuses. The tool which will be used
to facilitate this innovative learning
experience is the cutting-edge tablet
computer, the Apple iPad2.
Course offerings
Capsicum Culinary Studio offers its
courses on a part time, full time, day
release and block release basis. The
available courses are as follows:
• Diploma in Food Preparation and
Cooking
• Certificate in Food Preparation and
Cooking
• Diploma in Patisserie
• Advanced Diploma in Culinary
Arts
New Programme Offerings
Capsicum offers the Programme in
Chocolate Arts and Confectionery,
a first of its kind in South Africa.
To ensure global standards for this
progamme, state-of-the-art chocolate
and pastry kitchens are now available in
both the Cape Town and Johannesburg
Campuses. In addition, Capsicum
launched the Foundation Award in
Management Principles during 2012
which provides junior managers the insight
into managing people, information,
activities and resources.
Capsicum Development Division
The Capsicum Development Division
places its emphasis on people development
in the workplace, offering programmes that
are designed to upskill current employees
as well as develop new talent for the
industry in a way that is most suited to
both the industry as well as its people. The
Development Division will offer education
and training to Industry on a part time, day
release or block release basis. In addition,
the division will offer craft workshops, short
programmes, and master classes to keep
employed chefs abreast with culinary trends.
Achievements and Success
Stories
Capsicum Culinary Studio is very fortunate
to have Executive Company Chef Alfred
Henry on-board. Chef Alfred is a master
chocolatier who specialises in all things
pastry. Among the many accolades which
have been awarded to Capsicum Culinary
Studio in the past, there are a few which
really stand out: Executive Chef Alfred
Henry won the regional Unilever Chef of
the Year in 2005, as well as second place at
the Unilever Chef of the Year by InvitationOnly event in 2011.
Some student achievements include: Pierre
Cronje winning the Goldcrest Young Chef
of the Year Competition during 2009.
Genghis San won the 2009 Food and Home
Magazine Cooking Competition. Zaheera
Musa and Elizabeth Mair won the City &
Guilds Medals for Excellence in 2010 for
outstanding performance in the Diploma in
Patisserie. Shereen Clark won the Pritchitts
Creams South Africa Young Chef of the
Year Competition during 2011 and Jennifer
Lombard won the Sime Darby Hudson &
Knight Baking Masters Competition also
in 2011.
More recently, Penelope Lamming and
Jessica Hart (both from the Cape Town
Campus) were selected as finalists in the
City & Guilds Skilled Student Challenge
hosted at the annual Hostex event in Cape
Town during May 2012.
Capsicum student’s work in various top
establishments locally and abroad and
others are successful, running their own
businesses.
For more information on Capsicum and
how to register for the July intake, visit
www.capsicumcooking.co.za or
086 111 CHEF (2433). Connect with
Capsicum via social media at www.
facebook.com/capsicumcooking or
www.twitter.com/capsicumcooking.
Executive Chef Alfred Henry
CHEF! Issue 29 | 61
a
celebration
of taste
and culinary
creativity
It’s the Unilever Food Solutions Chef of the year where innovative chefs like YOU have the opportunity to
prove your worth in the culinary world and challenge your peers with your unique culinary skills.
A chance to create and produce the most original, utterly delicious, beautifully plated dishes in South Africa.
New this year is the introduction of two exciting
categories – Creative Canapés and Confectionary where
YOU will have the opportunity to dazzle our judges in
the following criteria: Most Indulgent; Best Innovative
Presentation; Best use of UFS ingredients; Best
Representation of Theme.
We also continue the tradition of our competition being
judged by several leading, respected figures in the
culinary world.
Could YOU be one of the chefs to impress with your
dishes, winning YOU one of the coveted top spots?
Categories
Prizes
Junior Chef of the Year
• Less than 5 years of professional culinary experience
• Three course meal entry using Unilever Food Solutions products
1st prize
2nd prize
3rd prize
R 10 000
R 6 000
R 4 000
Senior Chef of the Year
• More than 5 years of professional culinary experience
• Three course meal entry using Unilever Food Solutions products
1st prize
2nd prize
3rd prize
R 15 000
R 10 000
R 5 000
Team of Four
• Open to restaurants and canteens
• No qualifications, but must be cooks
• Three course meal entry using Unilever Food Solutions products
• Themed table décor to serve 4pax
1st Prize R20 000
2nd Prize R12 000
3rd Prize R 8 000
2 May : Entries Open
24 July : Entries Close
31st July : Durban semi-final mystery basket cook-offs
1st August : JHB semi-final mystery basket cook-offs
3rd August : Cape Town semi-final mystery basket cook-offs
14 September : Durban – finals
NEW
Important Dates:
Creative Canapés
• More than 5 years of professional culinary experience
• No regional cook-off
• Hot and cold canapés – 4 of each to serve 4pax
1st Prize R 7 000
2nd Prize R 2 000
3rd Prize R 1 000
Confectionary Showcase
• More than 5 years of professional culinary experience
• No regional cook-off
• Focus on cakes and cake decorating
1st Prize R 7 000
2nd Prize R 2 000
3rd Prize R 1 000
Be one of the first to enter via our all-new online registration process. All it takes is a few simple steps.
www. unileverfoodsolutionscoty.co.za
Fax (031) 570 2395 or email [email protected]
Contact Kusturie Naidoo with any queries on (031) 570 2751
enter online now!
www.unileverfoodsolutionscoty.co.za
33385Chef