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Knee Cup
Installation Instructions:
You will start with two identical knee
cups cut to fit your knee size.
BLOCK 1
BLOCK 2
The edges of the cups will be shipped
to you with square corners so they
can be customized to fit any boat.
BLOCK 3
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© 2015 – River Elf LLC. All Rights Reserved
Your knee cups will probably need some customization
before they are ready to be glued into place. The amount
and complexity of this customization will depend upon the
length of your bent leg, whether you like a wide or narrow
stance, and the curvature of the inside hull of the boat you
are outfitting.
The following instructions are provided as a general guide
with tips on how to get a good result. In the end, you will
have to make the correct assessments and modifications to
make them fit well for your application. Use your own
judgment as to whether the following detailed instructions
suit your application!
Make small changes as you go so that you don’t make a big
mistake and remove too much material.
Expect to get in and out of your boat as you iterate toward a
nice fit.
Be sure your seat, anchors and straps are installed before
beginning.
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You will need two tools to adequately modify your knee
cups:
A small compass saw works well for bulk removal of foam.
However, for most of your work, use Red Devil Dragon Skin
to shape the necessary curves on the outside of your knee
cups. Low grit coated sandpaper will also work for fine
tuning and shaping minicell foam. Use 40 grit or lower.
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1. Use tape to mark a center line inside the boat. An
accurate center line will help you position your knee cups
for body symmetry.
To establish a center line, drop a plumb bob from the front
center of the cockpit rim into the hull to mark the front
point.
If your seat is centered, use it to mark the back of the
center line.
Center
Line
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2. Sit in your boat and make an initial assessment.
Get in your boat, slip your unaltered knee cups onto your
knees and try to take up your natural preferred boating
stance.
Can you get wide enough? Does the inside curvature of
the chine impede with where you want the knee cups to
sit? Take a look and see if you need modification to the
outside of your knee cups to make them fit and if so, how
drastic do the changes need to be?
Center
Line
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Sitting on your pedestal, your legs naturally form a slight
“V” out toward the sides of the boat. For maximum fit and
comfort, try turning your knee cups with a slight angle out
from the center line. In this picture, things are exaggerated
and staged to illustrate the point:
CORRECT
Since your legs don’t form a “U” shape when bent, you
shouldn’t expect for your knee cups to lie parallel to the
center line when they are installed.
INCORRECT
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Another thing to notice when you sit in your boat is that
the bottom portion of the knee cup walls will flex out. This
is normal. Your bent knee is not a perfect “U” shape either.
The knee cups are designed with a 1” wall to flex out near
the bottom yet remain more rigid near the top of your
knee. Over time, your knee cups will flex and settle into
more of a “V” shape that is custom to your body.
This picture illustrates how the bottom portion of the knee
cup will flex out:
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In the instructions that follow, we will refer to the top of the
knee cup as being the end with the curved foam stop and
the bottom of the knee cup as the end with the opening.
TOP
BOTTOM
TOP
BOTTOM
3. Start by removing bulk material from the knee cups.
This is where you have to begin making your own judgments
about what modifications are needed. If your knee cups
nearly fit during the initial check, then you probably do no
not want to remove any bulk material using a saw. Instead,
go ahead and use dragon skin to finalize their shape and
skip to Step 7.
Based on our experience, if you are outfitting for a C-1 the
following bulk removal usually needs to be made:
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Recognize that at this point forward, you will have a left and
a right knee cup. Be sure to double check that you have
marked your knee cups correctly before you cut.
Begin by removing a tapering triangular piece of foam from
the underside corner (closest to the curvature of the chine)
with the large end at the top of the knee cup tapering to
nothing at the bottom corner.
The large end should look like an isosceles triangle with legs
on the edges that measure ~ 1 ¼ inches each (maybe less).
TOP
This cut will allow the outside wall and corner to begin to fit
the curve of the chine. Mark your knee cups like this:
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Both knee cups marked prior to cutting with a saw (note
that they have already been designated as left and right):
TOP
BOTTOM
1¼“
1¼“
TOP
BOTTOM
After first cut:
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Another picture after the initial cut, looking down the left
knee cup from the top:
Next, cut a triangular “tube” straight down the outside top
corner to allow it to nuzzle even closer to the chine wall.
Use an isosceles triangle with legs measuring one inch:
1“
1“
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A different look down the corner prior to second cut:
After second cut:
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Both bulk cuts now in place:
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4. Use dragon skin to shape the cuts into smooth curves.
You should end up with something that looks like this:
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5. Get back in your boat and reassess the fit. Your knee
cups should probably fit much better now but may need
further changes. Do they fit the stance you want or do you
need to remove more material to get wider? Do they fit
against the chine and floor of the hull so that they can be
glued in or do they need further shaping to press them into
place?
6. Use dragon skin to further sculpt your knee cups to fit
your boat. Make slight changes to the shape of the outside
of your knee cups until they fit well. You will need to get
back in your boat fairly often to reassess things as you go.
Here, in our example, we decided to add more curvature as
the cup transitions from the flat hull into the chine:
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We also decided to take more out of the outside top corner
to allow the cup to tuck into a wider stance.
After several iterations, we arrived at the following final cup
design. Yours may not look like this. Yours may be more or
less sculpted or shaped in a different manner.
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More final cup pictures from our example:
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7. Mark the initial locations of your finished knee cups.
Get back in your boat and mark the location of your knee
cups using masking tape.
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8. Fine tune your knee cup locations using symmetry.
You can make slight changes to the location of your knee
cups to create body symmetry with the center line. This will
keep your body from feeling twisted in the boat.
Start with the initial positions you just masked off:
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Measure from the seat to the bottom of the cup…
from the center line to the bottom corner…
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and from the center line to the top corner.
Take measurements on both sides and compare them
against each other.
Adjust the masking tape and knee cup locations to create
symmetry.
Get in your boat and test the new locations. Readjust if
necessary.
While its nice to shoot for perfect symmetry, in the end err
on the side of comfort and fit. Your knee cups are not
exact mirror images of one another and the different sides
of your body may not be either.
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9. Completely mask off the area around your knee cups.
10. Glue your knee cups into place. Apply “Weldwood”
contact cement to the bottom of your knee cups (and the
sides as required) and to the areas masked off on the hull of
your boat. Once both surfaces are tacky (doesn’t stick to
your fingers) the parts are ready to be joined. Contact
cement bonds instantly to itself so you have one chance to
get it right.
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Turn the knee cup on edge and start by attaching the
uppermost inside corner to the masked hull.
Slowly lower the inside edge into place.
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Once the edge appears to be in the correct location, you
can simply roll the knee cup into the masked area and
bond it to the hull. Press down across the entire surface
to be sure it has fully bonded.
The knee cups after bonding:
24/25
Pictures from another install:
Notice how the knee cup angles in toward the chine and
has been curved to fit. The outside top corner was glued
into the chine but the outside wall was not.
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