Sidrah Kamal Dissertation - Indus Valley School of Art
Transcription
Sidrah Kamal Dissertation - Indus Valley School of Art
Kamal |1 Dry-cleaning up close; Is Dry-cleaning a get out of jail card a low quality product? By Sidrah Kamal Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture 2013 Kamal |2 Dry-cleaning up close; Is Dry-cleaning a get out of jail card a low quality product? By Sania Khaliq This thesis is submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of BACHELOR OF TEXTILE DESIGN from Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture. Internal Advisor: Humera Tareen Gemma Sharpe Arshad Farooqui External Advisor: DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE DESIGN INDUS VALLEY SCHOOL OF ART AND ARCHITECTURE KARACHI, PAKISTAN 2013 Kamal |3 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Firstly I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my internal advisor miss Humera Tareen, for her continuous support and help for my research, for motivating me throughout this dissertation and providing me with immense knowledge and great ideas. Her guidance helped me throughout my dissertation process. I would like to place my honour for our dissertation supervisor Miss. Gemma Sharpe as being such a sweet heart and giving me immense support and time and for being there always. Besides her I would like to thank my external advisor Mr. Arshad Farooqui for his advices. I would like to thank my fellow friends for their support and guidance throughout. I would like place my special gratitude and unconditional love for my family specially my sister Tarbia Kamal for believing in me and helping me continuously. It is because of their efforts I was able to complete my dissertation. And above all I would like to thank Allah for his immense support, without Him I will not be able to come this long. Thank you for everything. TABLE OF CONTENTS Kamal |4 ABSTRACT ...................................................................................................................... IV 1.0 INTRODUCTION.......................................................................................................... 1 2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW .............................................................................................. 5 2.1 “Dangers of dry cleaning by Environment, Health and Safety Online” ............... 5 2.2 “Fabric Care” by D. Noemia Souza, Noemia D'Souza New Age International ... 8 2.3 “Clothing Labels Regulations for Your Garment” ............................................ 10 2.4 “Green Queen: Look for eco-friendly alternatives to dry-cleaning” by Ann Marie McQueen" ..................................................................................... 11 2.5 “Ready to embrace elegance by Ayesha hoda” ................................................ 13 3.0 RESEARCH METHADOLOGY ............................................................................... 15 3.1 Secondary Research ....................................................................................... 15 3.2 Primary Research ........................................................................................... 16 4.0 FINDINGS AND ANALYSIS ..................................................................................... 18 5.0 CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................... 37 BIBLIOGRAPHY .............................................................................................................. 39 APPENDICES.................................................................................................................... 47 Questionnaire 1 ................................................................................................................. 50 Questionnaire 2 ................................................................................................................ 54 Kamal |5 Interview Questions ........................................................................................................ 58 Market survey Check list .................................................................................................... 60 ABSTRACT Kamal |6 Dry-cleaning, which is known as dry washing is a process of cleaning clothes and textiles in which chemicals and solvents are used instead of water. Some of these chemicals are hazardous and are harmful for the environment and the people using these in their daily lives. This dissertation revolves around the concept of designers who are using this tagline of ‘dry clean only’ for a low quality product. As majority of the clothes in local boutiques are labelled with this tagline; it also highlights the reasons behind the low quality product to be dry-cleaned only. It is a research on how many designers along with the local public are aware of the dry cleaning effects. It focuses on the argument “why there is a need for a low quality to be Dry cleaned only and why it is rising as a trend among the locals”. I chose this topic of dry- clean only because I wanted to find out the secrets behind it and make myself completely aware about this, I was curious to find out that do the designers know about effects, as they are the one who are using this tag line of dry clean only. Kamal |7 INTRODUCTION Fabric ‘fills an almost endless number of roles in our practical, personal, emotional, social, communicative, economic and aesthetic’1life. ‘Most textiles are treated with chemicals to soften and dye them; however these chemicals can be toxic to the environment and can be transferred to the skin of the people wearing them. Hazardous chemicals used commonly in the textile industry are lead, nickel, chromium, aryl amines, phthalates and tetrachloroethylene.’2 While going on through internet research on technical textile I came across to a lot of details and facts about dry cleaning process and its advantages and disadvantages. ‘The process of dry - cleaning uses solvent to remove soils and stains from fabric. The dry cleaning process begins with the pre-treatment of spots and stains using special cleaning agents.’3 It is an easy way out for those who are too busy to hand wash clothes or with care for clothing but dry-cleaning has opposite effects. ‘There are a lot of chemicals that are used in dry cleaning process which have a variety of health and safety hazards. These chemicals includes ; Perc – dry cleaning agent Perchloroethylene, Fluro – dry-cleaning agent for fragile fabrics Freon, Spotting agents – manual spotting of resistant strains Hydrofluoric acid, Bleaching agents, Hydrogen peroxide, Sodium hypochlorite, Souring agents , Hydrochloric 1 Beverly Gordon, ‘The fiber of our lives: The conceptual framework for looking at Textiles’ Meanings’ ‘by Beverly Gordon’ (posted: Friday, August 24, 2012) http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/44/4318/the-fiber-of-our-lives1.asp [last accessed: Tuesday, June 18, 2013] 2 ‘Name unknown’ ‘what is ethical fashion?’ ‘V&A, Victoria and Albert Museum the world’s greatest museum of art and design (posted: upload date unknown’ (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/w/what-is-ethical-fashion/) [last accessed: February 16th, 2013] 3 ‘Mary Marlowe Leverette’ ‘Dry Cleaning by Mary Marlowe Leverette’ ‘About.com, laundry’ (posted: upload date unknown) (http://laundry.about.com/od/definitions/g/Dry-Cleaning.htm) [last accessed: March 12th, 2013] Kamal |8 acid , Phosphoric acid , Acetic acid and Alkaline salts.’4 ‘These hazardous substances can cause human health problems which includes cancer, neurological, liver, and kidney effects following acute (short-term) and chronic (long-term) inhalation exposure. Adverse reproductive effects, such as spontaneous abortions, have been reported from occupational exposure to tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene); these chemicals are accumulated by our bodies and are never expelled.’5 So, a part of my dissertation will also focus on the dry cleaning chemicals which are harmful for human health and are used by commercial dry cleaners. This research paper will introduce the readers about the dry cleaning process and above mentioned chemicals that are utilized, and will make the reader aware about its effects. ‘Tetrachloroethylene (Perchloroethylene) is that chemical which is widely used for dry cleaning fabrics. This chemical is used by the dry cleaners for the dry cleaning process. It is very harmful for human and causes many health problems.’6 Figure 1: The traditional dry-cleaning process uses perchloroethylene, a chemical that has been identified as harmful to the environment and people. 4 Workplace Health and Safety Queensland, Department of Justice and Attorney-General Information guide: Dry cleaning and laundry industry series - Chemicals PN10217 Version 2. Last updated February 2010. (http://www.deir.qld.gov.au/workplace/resources/pdfs/sb_drycleaning_chemicals_guidancesheet.pdf) [last accessed: January 9th 2013] 5 ‘Ashley Lubyk’ ‘Clean and Chemically’ ‘Clean and Chemically’ (posted: October 17th 2008) (http://www.greencalgary.org/ask-ashley/details/clean-and-chemically/)[last accessed: 17th june 2013] 6 ‘ name unknown’ ‘Ethylene Dibromide (Dibromoethane)’ ‘Technology Transfer Network Air Toxics Web Site’ (posted: 6/11/2007) (http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/tet-ethy.html) [last accessed : march 20th 2012. Kamal |9 Pakistan is now turning into a fashion symbol as new trends are followed up by the public. But the people and the consumers have no idea about the reality hidden behind everything. As my topic is focussing on “Why dry cleaning is becoming a trend in Pakistan (especially in Karachi)” a research on the people awareness about dry cleaning is very important. It is not always necessary to use dry cleaning. We just need to wash intelligently. ‘It is encouraged that we should always read custom fabric care labels but even if it is indicated sometimes, a professional dry cleaning is not necessary. It is also conducted that most of the clothing that women dry cleaned were actually machine washable. This means we could potentially save more than half of the dry cleaning bill if we wash our clothes our selves. Dry cleaning should always manage rich fabrics like ‘leather, suede and velvet.’7 Nowadays even the local producers are using the tag line of ‘dry clean only’. The idea behind this dissertation research is to clear out the questions which were bothering me lot like the reasons behind the excessive use of ‘dry clean only’ statement by the designers and their knowledge about it, also is there any such dry clean policy has been taken in Pakistan, or any measures taken by the authorities or information being passed to the local public about the dangers of dry clean. Although in the international market they have taken various policies along with rules, regulations and various types of techniques for washing a fabric and also label care. But why in Karachi it is nowadays a rising trend for a low quality product to be dry clean only? 7 ‘ Fit Custom Shirts’ ‘Home dry cleaning tips for laymen’ ‘FCS fit custom shirts’ (posted:2011) (http://www.fitcustomshirts.com/blog/home-dry-cleaning-tips-for-laymen/) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013] Kamal |10 Figure 2: Tags which states DRY CLEAN ONLY. As fabric is transforming into a luxury more than a necessity; more people are now adapting new trends, being unaware about the hidden truths & facts. Through this dissertation the public (workers, low class, middle class, elite or producers) will get an idea and awareness about the textile facts which are not being confronted by the responsible managing authorities. And it will leave a beneficial impact on our society. So are we socially responsible for this? Kamal |11 2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW ‘The dangers of dry cleaning comes from recent reports and researches which takes us directly to the chemicals used in traditional dry cleaning methods to cancer, liver and nervous system damage, infertility, and hormonal disruption. Almost 75 percent of the main element is used in all dry cleaning which is perchloroethylene. The dry cleaners used the term organic because any compound based on carbon are called organic, so as percholoroethylene being the harmful chemical is considered as organic.’8 ‘Dangers of dry cleaning by Environment, Health and Safety Online, 2011 Benivia, LLC.01/20/2013 “Are you concerned about the danger of perchloroethylene from dry cleaning to your health?”9 In This text “Are you concerned about the danger of perchloroethylene from dry cleaning to your health?”10 Gives a view about the chemicals used in dry cleaning and its effects to the consumers as well as the workers of dry-clean industries. This text gives a complete knowledge about the most common chemical used in dry cleaning i.e. perchloroethylene. As the main content of this text revolves around U.S.A. which say that 85 percent of the dry clean shops use this chemical. I choose this text because in Pakistan I think that dry cleaners have not been aware about the chemicals which are being used in the process of dry cleaning 8 ‘Sarah F. Berkowitz’ ‘How to avoid dry cleaning dangers’ ‘mnn( mother nature network)’ (posted: Tue, Mar 08, 2011) (http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/natural-beauty-fashion/stories/how-to-avoid-dry-cleaning-dangers) [last accessed: june 3rd 2013] ‘Name unknown’ ‘Drycleaning’ ‘Environment, Health and Safety Online’ (last updated :June 6th,2013) (http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/drycleaningdangers.php) [last accessed: June 18th, 2013] 9 ‘Name unknown’ ‘Drycleaning’ ‘Environment, Health and Safety Online’(last updated :June 6th,2013) (http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/drycleaningdangers.php) [last accessed: June 18th, 2013] 10 Kamal |12 and almost all the dry cleaners are using this harmful substance. As this text states that many international researchers have conducted different studies on this commercial dry cleaning, through which they came up with health and safety hazards. Due to these researches people living abroad are more informed than people living in Pakistan about the dry cleaning process and the chemicals used in it. Figure 3: Local Dry cleaning store. Dry cleaning is becoming very popular these days publicly in Pakistan. But the people living here have no knowledge about its effects. I chose this text for my essay because it describes all the points which come under dry cleaning. The main idea of this text is to give detailed information about dry cleaning. It states that “People exposed to high levels of perc, even for brief periods, may experience serious symptoms.”11 “Those include dizziness, fatigue, headaches, confusion, nausea, and skin, lung, eye and mucous membrane irritation. Repeated exposure to high levels can also irritate the skin, eyes, nose and mouth, and can cause liver damage and respiratory failure.”12 This statement is highly important for the producers as well as for the consumers. I think in Pakistan hardly few dry cleaners have complete idea of these health concerns. And only few of them take any measures or give importance to these things. 11 ‘Name unknown’ ‘Drycleaning’ ‘Environment, Health and Safety Online’(last updated :June 6th,2013) (http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/drycleaningdangers.php) [last accessed: June 18th, 2013] 12 ‘Name unknown’ ‘Drycleaning’ ‘Environment, Health and Safety Online’(last updated :June 6th,2013) (http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/drycleaningdangers.php) [last accessed: June 18th, 2013] Kamal |13 Figure 4: Dizziness, headaches are the early effects of Dry cleaning. Up till now I did not find any health or safety committee or the producers who had taken any steps to share this knowledge or to work for the betterment. The text speaks about the hazardous effects on the environment and the waste produce by dry cleaning. After going through this text I feel that this set of information will contribute in a significant way to my subject, also will guide me to research about the measures which are already been taken as well as which can be taken in future. I am inspired by the text when it says that “approximately 30,000 drycleaners in the United States share the public's concerns about risk to the environment and human health from exposure to cleaning solvents. Many professional cleaners have taken significant steps to reduce releases. A chemical industry survey reports that in the past ten years, drycleaners have reduced their use of perc by more than 60%. Most of this was accomplished through the replacement of old perc equipment with machines designed to reduce perc vapours going into the air, and better waste management.”13 This set of information will guide me while going through my primary research. And will help me pass this valuable information further. Although my dissertation research is not about the details of dry cleaning it is about why “dry clean only” tagline has became so common specially for a low quality product or is it an easy way out for the producers? 13 ‘Name unknown’ ‘Drycleaning’ ‘Environment, Health and Safety Online’(last updated :June 6th,2013) (http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/drycleaningdangers.php) [last accessed: June 18th, 2013] Kamal |14 “Fabric Care” by D. Noemia Souza, Noemia D'Souza New Age International, 01-Jan- 1998 - 176 pages.14 “This book, though written for textiles and clothing students would certainly be of great help to very many people. Every single person is a consumer of textiles. ‘We all love to wear clothes that are dean and fresh.’ So we need to know how they should be cared for. Persons in the laundry industry and those managing institutional laundries would find some very interesting information and help. The book seeks to acquaint the reader with the nature and characteristics of textile fibres, the different functional finishes applied to fabrics, types of water and water softening processes, different laundry aids, laundry equipment and laundry processes. Practical methods of removal of different stains from different fibre fabrics have been clearly indicated. The book also contains interesting information on the care of special items like carpets, rugs, upholstery, draperies and leather. Practical ideas for planning of the laundry area in homes and in institutions have been suggested.”15 The first text describes the basic process and chemicals of commercial dry cleaning. This second text had taken from chapter 9 “CARE LABELS “of Fabric Care by BYD. Noemia Souza, Noemia D'Souza .New Age International, 01-Jan-1998 from pg 87 to 129. ‘This text will be describing the importance of care and labels for a fabric. The wear life of garments depends on the care one takes of them. In certain countries it has been mandatory, 14 ‘Noemia, D Souza’, ‘Fabric Care’ (New Age International, 01-Jan-1998) ‘pg 87 to 129.’ (http://books.google.com.pk/books?id=LA0NdnTHmLMC&dq=is+dry+cleaning+important+for+normal+fabric &source=gbs_navlinks_s) 15 ‘ Noemia, D Souza’, ‘Fabric Care’ (New Age International, 01-Jan-1998) ‘pg 87 to 129.’ (http://books.google.com.pk/books?id=LA0NdnTHmLMC&dq=is+dry+cleaning+important+for+normal+fabric &source=gbs_navlinks_s) Kamal |15 for over quarter of a century that all the garments and even fabrics carry labels indicating whether they can be laundered or have to be dry-cleaned and which laundering processes are to be carried out or to be avoided. Even garments that may be laundered by harsher methods have to bear a label which reads: wash or dry clean, any method. Care labelling has not yet been made compulsory in our country; exporters of garments are required to do so by the importing countries.’16 The main part of my research will be based on labelling. Figure 5: Always read the label care before applying any type of washing. Nowadays in Pakistan dry-cleaning trends has become very popular. Even the low quality product has to be labelled with dry clean only. Especially local producers have set the trend of dry cleaning among the local class. This text provides with standard systems of labelling which are followed by the international market. The writer has provided with the detailed instructions for treating different fabrics individually think these standards are very useful especially for our market where people are unaware about the effects of dry clean. 16 ‘Noemia, D Souza’, ‘Fabric Care’ (New Age International, 01-Jan-1998) ‘pg 87 to 129.’ (http://books.google.com.pk/books?id=LA0NdnTHmLMC&dq=is+dry+cleaning+important+for+normal+fabric &source=gbs_navlinks_s) Kamal |16 “Clothing Labels Regulations for Your Garment · 11/15/2012” ‘A reasonable basis is required for all labelling instructions. One example is that you cannot place a product label of dry cleaning only on a piece of fabric that can be washed in a normal washing machine. If dyes are known to bleed, you can only allow machine washing if you are sure that this is not likely to happen, and the best way to ensure that you are safe is to test the fabric yourself. Since many fabrics are blends of several types of material, you must make sure that the label accurately describes the entire product. So if you have some fabric that requires dry cleaning or a cold water wash that is combined with a more durable fabric, use the requirements for the less durable fabric as the main clothing label.17 Figure 6: A chart which indicates the clothing care international standardize symbols. In this article the author also talked about the importance of labels on clothing. And through this text he was trying to say that we should not just believe completely whatever is written on the label but we should see what is reasonable and avoid excessive use of dry cleaning. This gave me an idea about how we can put forward our requirements in front of the producers and can easily question them. In our country this subject has lack of awareness 17 ‘ Anna Woodward’ Clothing label regulations for your garment’ ‘Fiber2Fashion’ (posted:2013) (http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/5/401/clothing-label-regulations1.asp) [last accessed: june 3rd 2013] Kamal |17 among the consumers that is why the local public accepts whatever their producers offer them. Hardly few of the producers have this awareness about labelling and dry cleaning. “Green Queen: Look for eco-friendly alternatives to dry-cleaning” by Ann Marie McQueen May 11, 2011.18 This article gives an overview of dry cleaning and also describes the substitution which can be used against dry cleaning. Firstly the author talks about the common solvent used in dry cleaning i.e. perchloroethylene “One of the most troublesome chemicals used in the process is perchloroethylene, a clear, colourless solvent commonly referred to as perc, which has been listed by the US Environmental Protection Agency as hazardous to the environment as well as to humans. A variety of governments in North America, both at the federal and local levels, have identified perc as a probable carcinogen, along with the International Agency for Research on Cancer. Perc can be inhaled and absorbed through the skin, with exposure linked to a variety of shortterm health ailments including nausea, headaches and breathing problems, long-term damage to the liver and kidneys as well as respiratory and neurological problems.19 I feel that the above mentioned text was just the general idea for readers about what actually dry cleaning is and also to open the minds of the reader. Secondly the author tells us about the different policies which were taken in Atlantic by the government for the substitution of dry cleaning. “As more has become known about this chemical over the past dozen years or so, governments on both sides of the Atlantic are enacting policies aimed at phasing out its use 18 ‘Ann Marie McQueen’ ‘Green Queen: Look for eco-friendly alternatives to dry-cleaning’, ‘THE NATIONAL’ (posted: May 11, 2011) (http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/house-home/green-queen-look-for-eco-friendly-alternatives-to-drycleaning#page1) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013] 19 ‘Ann Marie McQueen’ ‘Green Queen: Look for eco-friendly alternatives to dry-cleaning’, ‘THE NATIONAL’ (posted: May 11, 2011) (http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/house-home/green-queen-look-for-eco-friendly-alternatives-to-drycleaning#page1) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013] Kamal |18 over the coming years. As that happens, green dry-cleaning alternatives have been popping up all over the West to meet demand. Opinions on how "eco-friendly" they are vary, but most experts seem to tilt towards a process that involves using biodegradable soap and water. Seinfeld must be chuckling, because this method is called "wet" cleaning.”20 As this article also gives us an idea about Middle East so it helped me increase my knowledge over all about the subject. The author discussed the changes which are being made and also how the dry cleaners themselves trying to substitute it and make it aware among the people. My concern is only why the producers of Pakistan are not taking this seriously as dry Cleaning is becoming one of the trends these days. The article put forward some reality check on what actually happening in the market. “The problem with dry-cleaning inspired the New Yorkers Lindsey Wieber Boyd and Gwen Whiting, the founders of The Laundress, to create a range of eco-friendly speciality detergents and fabric care products.” “We knew about 90 per cent of our items that were all labelled 'dry clean only' were washable," says Wieber Boyd. "We knew we could eliminate the need for expensive dry-cleaning with toxic chemicals. We just needed the products."21 Similarly I feel that these things are also found happening here. The low quality products, local boutiques around their products have this label of “dry clean only” can be washable. They can easily avoid this process. 20 ‘Ann Marie McQueen’ ‘Green Queen: Look for eco-friendly alternatives to dry-cleaning’, ‘THE NATIONAL’ (posted: May 11, 2011) (http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/house-home/green-queen-look-for-eco-friendly-alternatives-to-drycleaning#page1) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013] (paragraph 6) 21 ‘Ann Marie McQueen’ ‘ Green Queen: Look for eco-friendly alternatives to dry-cleaning’, ‘THE NATIONAL’ (posted: May 11, 2011) (http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/house-home/green-queen-look-foreco-friendly-alternatives-to-dry-cleaning#page2) Kamal |19 “Ready to embrace elegance Posted on January 15, 2013 by Ayesha Hoda”22this article gives a detailed view about the emerging trend of prêt in Pakistan also tells us about the trend setters of ready to wear. “Although unstitched designer lawn continues to be in great demand, ready-to-wear (RTW) brands are gaining popularity among urban, upper-middle class Pakistani women. RTW clothing in Pakistan dates back to the early 80s when there were a few select names such as Generation and Teejays. Eventually, other boutiques also opened to offer RTW, but affordability remained an issue as such clothes were on the pricey side. The trend of RTW caught on in the last decade, when brands such as Ego, FnkAsia and Khaadi emerged with their distinct aesthetic appeal. These were not merely boutiques but came with brand promises of quality, style and affordability for the modern Pakistani woman.”23 But as the demand of ready to wear is increasing day by day we could see these local boutiques somewhat losing their contribution towards quality. Nowadays it is becoming a trend to step in to prêt wear business. Figure 7: a prêt store shows ready to wear of various labels on a rack. Nowadays we could see in the various stores the excessive use of dry clean statements. 22 ‘Ayesha Hoda’ ‘Ready to embrace elegance’ ‘AURORA , First published in the November-December 2012 issue of Aurora.’(Posted on January 15, 2013). (http://auroramag.wordpress.com/2013/01/15/ready-to-embrace-elegance/) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013] 23 Ayesha Hoda’ ‘Ready to embrace elegance’ ‘AURORA , First published in the November-December 2012 issue of Aurora.’ (Posted on January 15, 2013). (http://auroramag.wordpress.com/2013/01/15/ready-to-embrace-elegance/) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013]. Kamal |20 In Pakistan traditional washing is still present. People in different areas hire maids or keep washing machines for laundry. Even the dhobi system is still found in most of the area. These are the ways which are still better to follow. Kamal |21 3.0 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY Gathering all the research was a bit challenging as the subject does not have anything related in the Pak context and so because of that I had to research in such a way that could not be biased for the Dry cleaners and designers. So keeping in mind all the facts I had to prepare the surveys through which I can gather a sufficient amount of research and findings for my dissertation. This chapter of research methodology will explain the reader on how my primary and secondary research for this dissertation was prepared. 3.1 SECONDARY RESEARCH To get more information I first started researching online, browse in the context of Pakistan but was not able to find any research material related to dangers of dry cleaning in Pakistan or articles or books on any measures against dry cleaning which would have been taken in Pakistan. So without spending more time on this I directly started to look in the international context as the basic idea for my dissertation research topic came through an article known as ‘what is ethical fashion?’ by ‘V&A, Victoria and Albert Museum the world’s greatest museum of art and design.24 After going through detail research online the texts I have chosen gave me clear information about the dangers of dry cleaning. I have used texts which clearly proves the effects of perchloroethylene (chemical used in dryclean) from dry cleaning. I researched on articles and journals. Also took help from the books and researched on the prêt rise in Pakistan. There is a lot more about dry cleaning which is important as context to articles, books available online. I tried to get as much information in my secondary research because this will help me in analysing why dry-cleaning is becoming so popular nowadays 24 Name unknown’ ‘what is ethical fashion?’ ‘V&A, Victoria and Albert Museum the world’s greatest museum of art and design (posted: upload date unknown’ (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/w/what-is-ethical-fashion/) [last accessed: February 16th, 2013] Kamal |22 among the general public. And also will get a complete knowledge on the chemicals and its advantages and disadvantages. A lot of secondary research could be found online and in books but if I look into the Pak context there is no such information found and no such measures have been taken against dry cleaning effects. I can only collect information through primary research which will lead me towards the conclusion. 3.2 PRIMARY RESEARCH In this dissertation I had used different methods of primary research. These methods include interviews, surveys and analysis. At first the main part of the primary research was started with surveys to get aware of what is happening in the local market around us. These surveys will help me in my analysis. The first survey was focused on various markets, on different local brands of textiles producing on larger scale and also local prêt wear boutiques available in Karachi. These stores are present in different areas of the city. Such as Khaadi, Khaadi Khaas, Generation, Daaman, Agha Noor, Zahra Ahmed, Maria.B, Beech Tree, Sheep, Ego, Cynosure and Cotton Ginny were visited at Zamzama Boulevard. Also stores like Koel, Ideas by Gulahmed, Threds were also visited. A checklist chart was prepared for this survey. As it helped me in finding out the number of brands using this tagline of dry clean only or do not dry-clean and also where in Karachi people are actually using international label care for their brands. This research was focused on the type of fabric, material and cost these brands were using as my dissertation topic is on why there is a need for a normal fabric to be dry-cleaned. The second survey includes a larger group of people to get a general opinion on dry cleaning. Questionnaires were prepared and were distributed among people, in houses and dry cleaners. This was especially focused on the female class which includes working women, house Kamal |23 wives, students etc. This survey also helped me in finding out that how many people are aware about the effects of dry cleaning. Interviews were also conducted through different dry cleaners, sales man of washing machines and also the maids who are doing washing in different societies. I will be asking drycleaners about the chemicals they use, their environment, about their sales, about how many people bring the products that could be hand wash at home, about types of fabric which needs dry cleaning or not. I also interviewed the known and very talented designer of Pakistan Miss Sania Maskatiya. I also interviewed a graduated of Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture from textile design, Miss Zeba Matloob. Designer at Samia Ahmed. For this research both qualitative and quantitative research methods were used. But more of it was based on quantitative research. My qualitative research was based on the interviews I have conducted with the dry cleaners, maids, house wives, local public. Asking them about the prêt rise and why do they prefer dry cleaning. For my quantitative research I did surveys based on questionnaires and also market research which gathered the ideas and opinions in numbers. Kamal |24 4.0 FINDINGS AND ANALYSIS As the demand of prêt wear is at its peak similarly the demand for dry-clean is also increasing among our local public. It’s Because of these prêt wear boutiques which are using this tagline of dry clean only for their products. To find out about the reason behind this I decided to carry out my dissertation on exactly the rising trend of dry-clean in our society. As Karachi is one of the biggest cities of Pakistan life here is very fast and people are very social. As mentioned before in my literature review my dissertation revolves around why ‘dry clean’ only tagline has become so common especially for a low quality product among the local public. Figure 8: demand of prêt wears in market. For my research I started off with surveys among the locals and dry cleaners. I went to dry clean shops of different areas and conduct interviews from the manager and the sales man. I made a separate interview questionnaire to get an idea about how much they are qualified and are aware about dry clean. First I went to the most popular dry cleaning firm in Karachi i.e. SNOW WHITE DRYCLEANERS which is “ISO CERTIFIED (international organisation for standardization).”25 I went to the main retail shop of snow white drycleaners which is at Khayaban-e-Mujahid phase 5. I started with an interview from the manager Mr. Mustafa Abbasi of snow white dry cleaners; I started off with the basics, little details about their firm. 25 ‘about ISO’ http://www.iso.org/iso/home/about.htm Kamal |25 After asking this I found out that ‘since last three years the sales have increased especially in the ladies wear which includes ladies lawn, cotton and linen kurtis,26 three piece embroidered suits, silk and chiffon. They were satisfied with their sales and they also accept that they are providing a healthy atmosphere to their workers. Their salesmen are hired by the owner of the firm; the salesmen have academic qualifications as they have to deal with customers and are supposed to strengthen relationship with the consumers. But the labour they hired does not have any knowledge or qualifications regarding their jobs. As Mr. Mustafa Abbasi mentioned when interviewed for this assignment, ‘At work, they are only made aware of the process, working conditions and the do’s and don’ts of the firm and are told to undertake the given instructions.’27 As this point raised so many questions in my mind I directly asked him about the chemicals being used and their effects. The manager and the sales man were aware of the chemicals being used but I was astonished by the fact that they do not have any knowledge about the after affects that may occur after utilizing these chemicals. As Mr. Mustafa Abbasi believes that ‘perchloroethylene is the only chemical without which dry clean is not possible.’28 According to Mr. Mustafa Abbasi ‘this chemical removes stains faster and is organic’29 like it’s mentioned in the ‘first paragraph of my literature review.’30 As Mr. Mustafa Abbasi said “they do not follow any other methods of dry-clean like ‘green drycleaning”31 which was previously mentioned in my literature review because no measures have been taken up by the concerned authorities on perchloroethylene. Working under that environment I think that these people should have complete knowledge about the use and effects of dry clean, that is why the people are also not aware about these hidden facts of drycleaning and so easily it is becoming a new trend among the local public. The products which 26 ‘A long loose garment like a shirt without a collar, worn by both man and woman.’ th ‘ Mr. Mustafa Abbasi, 20 march 2013,(interview was conducted in person and transcribed) 28 th ‘ Mr. Mustafa Abbasi, 20 march 2013,(interview was conducted in person and transcribed) 29 th ‘ Mr. Mustafa Abbasi, 20 march 2013,(interview was conducted in person and transcribed) 30 th ‘ Mr. Mustafa Abbasi, 20 march 2013,(interview was conducted in person and transcribed) 31 th ‘ Mr. Mustafa Abbasi, 20 march 2013,(interview was conducted in person and transcribed) 27 Kamal |26 are mostly brought by the customers were upholstery fabrics, cotton fabrics, linen fabrics and lawn as well. After the survey of this shop which is located in defence, I mostly found ladies wear undergoing dry cleaning which includes normal embroidered lawn three piece suits and linen ‘kurtis.’32 I assumed that salesmen try to play it safe. They tend to keep all the garments with themselves for dry-cleaning brought by their customers even if they can be easily hand washed at homes. They keep them uninformed without letting their secrets go out. While going through a website of starz.pk33 about Snowhite DryCleaners I went through the comments list which states a lot of negative remarks about damage of clothes and their bad service so I asked them about the damages which a fabric can face after getting it dry clean. But after receiving a negative reaction on that one I asked about those fabrics which really need to be dry clean. According to them fabrics of all types can be dry cleaned, especially those who have the risk of colour bleed and have embellishments. After conducting this interview I came to know that although the people in this field are aware about the chemicals used in dry clean but they does not have a detailed knowledge about the effects of these chemicals. The customers are mostly women who are getting their clothes for dry clean and Most of their clothes are normal fabric like cotton, lawn and linen which can be washed at home. They also told me that mostly the clothes brought up by the women are bought from the boutiques. As these clothes carry this label of dry clean only. According to ‘Mr. Mustafa Abbasi ‘if a garment faces any damage after dry clean it is not their fault it’s the responsibility of the producer of that garment.’34 Also sometimes they refuse to take in those fabrics or dresses which are of low quality and which has maximum risk factors (like colour not so fast, fabric damage). Although I did not ask the manager and 32 33 34 ‘A long loose garment like a shirt without a collar, worn by both man and woman.’ ‘snowhite drycleaners, (http://www.starz.pk/biz/karachi/snowhite-drycleaners-saddar) th ‘ Mr. Mustafa Abbasi, 20 march 2013,(interview was conducted in person and transcribed) Kamal |27 the salesman anything bias but one thing which was awkward during this conversation was their body language. I think that they were very uncomfortable or may be scared while I was interviewing them as if they are doing something wrong. They were providing me with incomplete information. I feel that being as the most famous drycleaners it’s their responsibility to aware the public with details of dry clean, details of chemicals, washing details, healthy washing etc. they should take measures against perchloroethylene. Even researchers can conduct different studies on commercial dry cleaning so that the issues of health and safety can be resolved easily. Figure 9: a phrase which describes dry cleaning. I also visited other dry cleaners like Mercury, Tip Top, Swano and Classic dry cleaners to get an idea about their dry cleaning. All of these firms mentioned the same technique and chemicals of dry cleaning. After interviewing them I found out that in dry cleaning area where the store is located matters a lot. After looking at the sales of some areas like Defence, Clifton, Tariq road I think that here the demand of dry clean is higher among the female sector as the women here are very independent which includes mostly working women. As most of the elite class belongs in these areas they mostly prefer ready to wear clothing for their daily use so the use of dry clean is more. Women have made dry clean as the part of their routine life. In these areas it has become as a status symbol and also they can easily Kamal |28 afford it on a regular basis as compare to other areas, where woman are not that independent and are not ready to spend much on dry clean. While if go to the drycleaners which are on the other areas we could see that the demand is among the male sector. Women there still considered traditional hand or machine washing as their first preference and the sales of the dry cleaners clearly gave me an idea that they have a less quantity of women wear in there stores. The reason behind the rising trend of dry clean is due to the rise in demand of prêt wear which is mostly labelled as dry clean only. I also visited those dry cleaning shops which are not famous and are run by the middle class. These types of dry cleaning shops are found in the small streets where dry cleaning is done in low rates. These are actually low budget shops which are started by the locals. They have no formal education and also they are not using proper equipments. People here are mostly uneducated they just blindly believes and follow others, they hand in their garments to these dry cleaners just considering it as a professional dry cleaning. After going through these interviews and visiting drycleaners of various areas I think that there were no proper measures had been be taken by the dry cleaners. They all should come together at one platform and work for the health and safety of the people and the environment. They should avoid excessive use of perchloroethylene. They did not take any international policies in to their account against the hazardous chemical which could have helped then in making their firm more successful. They should try to provide their customers with the correct information about their garments instead of just thinking to gain sales and profits. Like I did mention in the first text of my literature review ‘that many professionals internationally have taken steps to reduce the use of perchloroethylene.’35 Similarly our Name unknown’ ‘Drycleaning’ ‘Environment, Health and Safety Online’ (last updated :June 6 th,2013) (http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/drycleaningdangers.php) [last accessed: June 18th, 2013] 35 Kamal |29 professionals should look forward to these people and take serious stand for the betterment of the people. After conducting interviews from dry cleaners I did a market survey which was my second most important task for this research. in which I visited all the prêt wear stores, local boutiques also retail stores mainly Khaadi, Khaadi Khaas, Generation, Daaman, Agha Noor, Zahrak Ahmed , Maria.B, Beech Tree, Sheep, Ego, Cynosure and Cotton Ginny to find out that how many of them are using this tagline. I made a check list in which the product, material of the garment, price and the tag has to go through a detail check. The reason for this survey is to find out about how many locals are using this tagline of ‘dry clean only’ and why? The main aspect behind this survey was to make myself aware about the secrets behind these taglines and why are they being used so commonly in the commercial market and also which of these brands are using this method of ‘international labelling.’36 At First I visited khaadi and khaadi khaas which is now the most popular and best sellable brand in our city. Khaadi has a lot of variety regarding the products. I first went through the women section in which stitched long shirts and lawn suits were available. While going through the wrack. I found out that some of the lawn shirts were labelled as dry clean only. Also the unstitched lawn suits which were packed were labelled as dry clean only. I did not find any reason for a three piece suit to be dry clean only. One thing which appealed me about Khaadi was they uses international fabric label care for some their products. It states all the ‘international symbols and standards’37 which were discussed in the second text of my literature review. In most of the garments they have provided complete washing information on the label. The label provides the customer with all precautions which should be undertaken while washing lawn cotton and linen. 36 37 ‘textile industry affairs’, (http://www.textileaffairs.com/c-common.htm) ‘textile industry affairs’, (http://www.textileaffairs.com/c-common.htm) Kamal |30 Figure 10: a label with international standard found in Khaadi. On the other hand in khaadi khaas almost all the products of jorjurds, silks and chiffons were labelled as dry clean. I also had a short discussion with Khaadi manager present at Dolmen City. I asked him why it is necessary for a lawn suit to be dry clean. As lawn is a daily wear casual fabric it cannot afford to be dry clean on a regular basis. According to him the reason behind this is that some of the colours bleed if they under taken by hand wash, also nowadays people prefer dry clean more, and it used to make the suit looks fresher. Figure 11: Khaadi lawn suit from eid collection 2013. After Khaadi I went to sheep which is another popular local brand of ready to wear. Here mostly fabric like cotton and linens are found. They keep ready to wear single piece garments. While going through their products I found out that they do have provided their label with little information about their products. Some of them were labelled as hand wash Kamal |31 which were cotton but linens were labelled as dry-clean only. The manager told me that as the weather of Karachi is mostly hot for about 9 months people here mostly prefer lawn and linen. And these days linen has acquired a high point. So to make it long lasting and to avoid facing any damages we use this tagline of dry clean only. After this I visited Generation. Generation is the first and the largest retail store of ready to wear clothes. In generation they have provided little information about washing procedure but the information was relatively better as it states that their cotton and lawn fabrics should mostly be hand wash. And dry cleaning was mostly preferred for voiles and chiffons. Then I went to ensemble which is a multi designer store, where clothes by famous designers are available. Designers such as Nida Azwer, Nomi Ansari, Sania Maskatiya have their latest collection displayed. I went through the rack of almost all the designers and found out that mostly they have used this tagline of dry clean only on their casual wear which are mostly linen or cotton shirt with little embellishments. I feel that the clothes which were labelled as dry clean only can be washed easily by hand if the producers are not using low quality material; because of this use of low qualities a customer has to face a lot of problems, at first they will hand in that product for dry clean but after that they will not because one cannot afford to send in their garment again and again for dry cleaning and if for instance they wash it at home they will face a huge damage of that product. So that is why low quality material should be avoided by the designers and should maintain a good name of their label. Then I visited Nishat linen store at Dolmen city Clifton, It was a big store with lots of variety. Their outlet keeps women wear and men’s wear along with kid’s wear. Almost all the products present there have this label of dry clean only. Even the lawn kurtis’ and kids wear have this tag. Similarly designers which produces on small scale like Agha Noor, Zahra Ahmed, Naz junaid, Cynosure, Cotton Ginny, Daaman, Unbeatable, Kolachites, Aisha linen, Kamal |32 cherry wrap, pink tree have this label of dry clean only on a simple linen shirt. These labels have a higher demand as they sell in affordable rates but they have excessive use of this statement of dry clean only and that is why these labels play a vital role in making dry cleaning as a new adopting trend among the local public. Figure 12: a linen kurta by Aisha Figure 13: a lawn kurta by Beech Tree Figure 14: a cotton kurta by Thredz. Kamal |33 Then I did surveys for my dissertation among the local public which includes working women, housewives and students. I have gone through many surveys and interviewed those who prefer prêt wear and usually hand in their products for dry- cleaning. I asked questions which were important and help me in my analysis for my research. The survey was prepared for both, the higher class and also middle class who can afford both ready to wear and also dry cleaning. The survey was made for the women aged from 17 onwards. And it offers multiple choice questions to be answered. The reason behind this survey was to find out the knowledge of people about dry cleaning and how many of them do consider proper labelling and takes the pros and cons of the product seriously. After the survey I found out that 70% public prefer Khaadi, 10% prefer Sheep, 10 % prefer Generation and 10% Threads. 90% of the public prefer stitched garments as compare to unstitched.90% of the public say that their selected brand is reliable. 55% of the public say that they check on the quality of the product before buying it. 40% of the public are concerned about the pros and cons of the product.60 % of the public check on the tag before the purchase. 55% say that the tag does not provide with the sufficient precautions. 59% say that lawn should be hand wash, 69% say that cotton should be dry cleaned.45% say that linen should be dry cleaned.68% and 66% say that silk and chiffon should be dry clean. I also came to know how often people use dry clean in their daily routine life. I also find out that 90 % of the people are not aware about the chemicals used in dry clean and also the effects of dry clean. Some of them have also experienced damage if they don’t follow the precautions on the label. Although most of them have encountered damages after dry clean. There are many professional designers in our town, who are working really hard to make their brand more powerful in the market. Each one of them is selling their own style and Kamal |34 wants their designs to be accepted by the majority. Because of their unique styles the competition among the designers have suddenly went on its peak. Each one of them is trying to reach the heights of the markets. It’s because of these designers people of Karachi are adopting new styles and new trends of fashion as in daily basis. But in all of this I feel that some of the designers nowadays mostly focus onto the styling and pricing of a garment. They should also focus on the quality and labelling of fabric care which is the second most important thing for a garment, as it is a guidance for the buyer that how he can maintain the life and the look of the overall garment. To make my research more clear, I have interviewed two designers. The first interview was conducted from one of the most talented and inspired designer of this era: Sania Maskatiya of label Sania Maskatiya. Through this interview I wanted to know her point of view about dryclean and how she is treating her garments which are displayed under her label. I started off with basic questions, her educational background which helped her come this long in her profession. Sania Maskatiya is a very simple, down to earth as a person. She acquired her formal education in Textile design, from Indus Valley School of Art And Architecture. She is into designing since 2007. For two years she worked as a designer for another label known as ‘Chamak’. In 2010 she launched her own label named Sania Maskatiya. Designing clothes is her passion. As being a house wife and a mother of two beautiful daughters she is running her label with full dedication and hard work. Her store has a lot of variety of clothes for women of all ages, mainly prêt wear which includes casuals, semi formals and formals. When asked about the fabrics, the talented Sania said that, her label mostly uses cotton, lawn and voile. According to her these three fabrics are mostly preferred due to the hot weather; these types of fabrics are suitable and easy to handle in this environment. For her casuals she Kamal |35 mostly uses cotton, lawn and linen. For her semi formals she uses voile, chiffons etc. her clothes also have block prints, digital prints and also embellished with buttons, embroideries etc. After this I directly started to ask her about which washing technique she uses for her personal and professional clothing. Miss Sania Maskatiya confidently said when interviewed “I preferred both hand wash and dry clean as both of them are equally important for the suitable fabrics.”38 I wanted to get her idea about which fabric should be hand wash or dry clean. Miss Sania Maskatiya recommended when interviewed that “ lawn and voile should be hand wash and should be treated softly and if there are any embellishments on the garment then machine wash should be avoided as it will ruin them also for semi formals dry - clean is recommended.” According to Sania the reason behind the rising trend of dry cleaning is people nowadays prefer dry- clean as compare to hand or machine wash as dry cleaning as Clothes look newer and better with dry cleaning especially for formal wear. As designers nowadays mostly recommend dry clean even for a simple shirt or kurta I asked her why this is so, Miss Sania Maskatiya said when interviewed that “it will be unfair if dry clean is used even for lawn cotton and linen. Sometimes if it is a silk tunic and have block print or any other embellishments then it should be labelled as dry clean, however personally for my own prêt wear I always washed them at home, and avoid excessive use of dry cleaning.”39 Her label also uses this tag line of ‘dry- clean only’ but in some of the lines like formals and semi formals. Miss Sania Maskatiya said when interviewed “this is because some outfits have block, screen print detailing with silk finishing, the colour will not run but its recommended 38 39 th ‘ Sania Maskatiya’, 25 may 2013, (interview was conducted) th ‘ Sania Maskatiya’, 25 may 2013, (interview was conducted) Kamal |36 to dry clean them.”40 She also said that it is necessary for some garments made of crepe, silk which have embroideries and bead word to recommend dry cleaning for them. After asking about her view on washing I asked her directly about the chemicals used in dry cleaning and its effects, but after hearing this, her reaction was a little blank as she said she has no idea about these things. I also asked about her label instructions for washing that is her label provides their customers with enough or detail or with no information about washing and care of the product. Miss Sania Maskatiya exclaimed when interviewed that “we do provide with information for our lawn lines only.”41For others they just labelled them as dry clean. I also asked her why sometimes clients bring in back the products and the reason behind this. She said that it is due to applying wrong methods of washing. The colours bleed, fabric gets damage, and clients should follow to what has been advised by the label. I wanted to know from her that is it a responsibility of a designer to provide their customers with pros and cons of dry cleaning. But Miss Sania Maskatiya confidently said when interviewed “No it's totally up to the client. Personally I wash my clothes at home and steam them myself.”42 She feels that fabric is something which is very delicate and textural. It should be dealt softly and with complete care. One should love and adore what she wears and protect it from stains and damages. On asking her whether formal education of fabric care should be made compulsory for a textile or fashion designer Miss Sania Maskatiya when interviewed gave me a positive feedback that “it should be surely made compulsory indeed it will help in increasing the 40 th ‘ Sania Maskatiya’, 25 may 2013, (interview was conducted) th ‘ Sania Maskatiya’, 25 may 2013, (interview was conducted) 42 th ‘ Sania Maskatiya’, 25 may 2013, (interview was conducted) 41 Kamal |37 knowledge also this is something which will work towards the betterment of our fashion and textile industry.”43 After interviewing her I felt that for a textile and fashion designer it is very necessary to have complete knowledge about different techniques of washing especially dry clean. So that they can provide their customers with pros and cons also it will be helpful for them they will avoid using those materials and things which needs dry cleaning. As being a professional designer she still preferred hand wash and wash her clothes at home only. This is very inspiring for me as being a working women and a house wife she still following traditional home washing. One should know the importance of fabric and treat it nicely. Also I think that being the owner of such a big and most sellable name she should know about the harmful effects of dry clean and also try to make people aware about these effects. It will help her and also her clients and the local public to get rid of dry cleaning which is extremely harmful. Also it will be beneficial for our society and environment if these types of professional designers which are preferred by most come together and take some initiatives and pass on this significant information which helps in avoiding dry clean. The next interview was conducted by another very talented designer Zeba Matloob. She’s also a graduate of Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture in textile design. She and Sania Maskatiya are from the same batch. She has started designing under the label of J. which is Junaid Jamshed then after working there for few years she is started off with Samia Ahmed under the label of Samia Ahmed as a designer. Zeba is a very decent and fun loving person. She loves to work with intricate designs and block prints. I started my interview with the same questions which were asked by Sania Maskatiya. After getting her educational background I asked her choice of fabric for prêt wear. She mentioned lawn and voile. For which she confidently preferred hand or machine wash. Miss Zeba Matloob said when 43 th ‘ Sania Maskatiya’, 25 may 2013, (interview was conducted) Kamal |38 interviewed “lawn and voile are those types of fabrics which should be hand wash as the fabric last for longer. Linen can also be recommended to wash at home if it’s not of low quality and is not so colour fast.”44 According to Miss Zeba Matloob said when interviewed “the trend of dry clean is increased because of the designers and labels that make their garments considering it to be dry clean, but not by the public as most of them cannot afford dry cleaning expenses.”45 On asking her the reasons behind designers who recommend dry clean for a simple shirt or kurta, Miss Zeba Matloob exclaimed when interviewed "the fabric used by most designers is cheap in quality to make it affordable for people. Fabric colours are not so fast that is why designers asked them to dry clean their fabric. (This is for the designers who use cheap fabric).”46 The label where she works also uses this tag line of dry clean only but it depends on the outfit to outfit. Miss Zeba Matloob said when interviewed “If it is a block print dress then it is labelled as ‘do not dry clean’ because block print will fade away in two to three wash of dry clean and will also damage the fabric.”47 Similarly it’s not necessary for all the fabrics to be dry clean. She also said that she is not aware about the harmful chemicals being used in dry cleaning process and how it is affecting us and never find anything in her surroundings related to this. For their formal garments they just use statements like dry clean recommended or dry clean only. According to Miss Zeba Matloob said when interviewed “it is the responsibility of a designer to provide their clients with pros and cons of the garments. Also professional education about fabric care shall be made compulsory as it will help the designers and the students to look into the details of fabric.”48 44 th ‘ Zeba Matloob’, 15 may 2013, ( interview was conducted) th ‘ Zeba Matloob’, 15 may 2013, ( interview was conducted) 46 th ‘ Zeba Matloob’, 15 may 2013, ( interview was conducted) 47 th ‘ Zeba Matloob’, 15 may 2013, ( interview was conducted) 45 48 th Zeba Matloob’, 15 may 2013, ( interview was conducted) Kamal |39 In her interview few things were similar to what Sania Maskatiya has pointed out but few answers differ a lot. As a designer she accept that most of the designers uses cheap fabric and colours with less fast that is why they label them as dry clean only. This is what I have also experienced in my market survey, to increase their sales they sell it in affordable prices but uses low quality fabric and labelled it with dry clean. Even some of the well-known educated designers are following these policies, which is quite shameful for our fashion industry. After all these surveys and interviews I conducted , the market surveys, visiting different labels and outlets I found out that most of the designers are not using international label care rules, which are as important as the fabric or design of the particular garment. Some does not even bother to use the tags for their products. These things are being ignored for a long period of time and up till now nobody has actually stood up against these things. Also not providing their customers with complete knowledge of how they can take care of their garment. People just have to have a clear and complete knowledge about the process and its effects before making it as part of their routine life. It is being taken as a luxury but I feel it is becoming a status symbol and also a way out for a low quality product. Although some of their owners does not have any formal training about it but because of high capital and investing power they are doing this business. These people are actually attracting the customers towards the dangers of textiles. It should be there first step to go through a detail study about dry cleaning and think twice before labelling a garment as dry clean only. It’s the responsibility of designers to inform the public about how harmful dry cleaning is. It is fine if it is being used rarely and for silks and chiffons but using it as on daily basis putting oneself in danger is not a good idea. Kamal |40 Figure 17: a label which shows all the statements used in label care. As a textile student I feel that it is the responsibility of technical textile department or health and safety researchers to aware us about these issues like it happens in international market. So that before starting any business or working with another designers we should know all the details and can produce keeping in mind the safety and betterment of a client. For consumers, as the trend of ready to wear is increasing day by day the consumers are ignoring all the other details of the garment. They are just concerned about the design, the cuts and the brand name. They started neglecting the importance fabric. They should not follow the tagline of dry clean only but should take this warning seriously. From The survey which was done among the local public I found out that the public is not aware at all about the chemicals used in dry clean process.they have no idea about how harmful it is. They just hand it over to the dry cleaners and just follow whatever the tag states. Also the drycleaners themselves have a very little knowledge. In our local market only two three brands are following international method of labelling. The market research gave me the number that almost except 2 to 3 all the labels are using this statement for their products. Kamal |41 Figure 15 It is clear that the reasons behind the use of the tagline of ‘dry clean only’ is that brands are using low quality products which includes the fabric , colour dyes and cheap embellishments. Selling their products with the label of dry clean only indicates that they try to get rid of all the secrets behind the particular garment. Even some of them don’t bother to label their garments as these producers do not take label care seriously and are mostly are concerned about their sales and market. People trust them blindly and are always ready to spend a good amount on their products so it’s their right to know the details. They should use good quality material and avoid the use of dry clean only tag line. I think that the label of dry clean should be ignored if used for fabrics like cotton, lawn and linen unless it is something very expensive. Gentle hand wash or slight machine wash and then leave it to dry is a far better option to use. It is the waste of money and a responsibility of pick and drop service of dry cleaning. The garments which states dry clean only can be hand wash at home but with little care. People should avoid dry clean on daily basis as it is very harmful for human bodies. When a person wore a garment which is dry cleaned the chemicals used while dry cleaning will be absorbed the human body and will harm dangerously. People here just have to wash the clothes intelligently. Kamal |42 Figure 16: boycott dry clean only garments. We in our society have so many options. We have maids who can hand and machine wash for us, we have our traditional washing which is dhobi so we can choose any option which is most suitable for our garment. As up till now no measures have been taken regarding this issue and people are unaware about it. Like ‘EPA’49 present in United States (United States Environmental Protection Agency), our country should also have started a firm which deals with all the health and environment of our country. Designers should come together and make a community in which these issues should be discussed and what measures can be taken against these. Some people believes that if they hand in their garments for dry clean they will have a longer life and will always look new but in reality in dry cleaning the fabric loses its life and also its colour fade by time also it gets weaker. The designers should also think on these lines as it is not necessary for a normal product to be dry-cleaned only. 49 (http://www.epa.gov/) Kamal |43 5.0 CONCLUSION The aim of this dissertation was to find out the reasons behind the need of a local product to be dry cleaned only, also to provide basic knowledge of dry clean, the increasing demand of dry clean and why mostly the tagline of ‘dry clean only’ being used in the market. The local public including me have a very little knowledge about technical textiles. Especially female sector which is only following what trend offers them. Through this dissertation I wanted to actually look in the detail of clothes and what’s happening in the market around us. After having a thorough survey on the dry cleaners and on the market survey, I came to the conclusion that almost all the dry cleaners use the hazardous chemicals that perchloroethylene even for a low quality fabric. They have no knowledge about its effect and if they know they try to hide them from the public. They just focus on their sales and business. Also no policies have been taken under this issue and no attention has been taken on label care. Only two to three brands are using international label care. They believe that dry cleaning is not possible without perc, and it is a better way to make a garment looks fresh and new. From the previous chapters I have analyzed that most of the designers themselves have no such knowledge about dry clean. They are using this tag to get away with the facts hidden behind. These facts include the use of low quality fabric, bleed of dyes, using cheap embellishments to make the garment affordable and sellable. They are just getting away with their responsibility as a designer towards public and the market. Most of the women in our city are working and are very independent that’s why they prefer ready to wear and dry clean. Every person has the right to question. It will be helpful for an individual if he just not believe or follow what has been provided or the statement but to show some concerns towards these facts and should question the responsible authorities for details. Kamal |44 It is not necessary to use dry cleaning as it will be better if we avoid it and try to wash the clothes at home only so that we know under which process and things our garments are going through. We should love and respect our clothes and do not let them to pass on through these dangers of dry cleaning. Kamal |45 BIBLIOGRAPHY Beverly Gordon, ‘The fiber of our lives: The conceptual framework for looking at Textiles’ Meanings’ ‘by Beverly Gordon’ (posted: Friday, August 24, 2012) http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/44/4318/the-fiber-of-our-lives1.asp [last accessed: Tuesday, June 18, 2013] ‘What is ethical fashion?’ ‘V&A, Victoria and Albert Museum the world’s greatest museum of art and design (posted: upload date unknown’ (http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/w/what-is-ethical-fashion/) [last accessed: Marlowe Leverette’ February 16th, 2013] ‘Mary Marlowe Leverette’ ‘Dry Cleaning by Mary ‘About.com, laundry’ (posted: upload date unknown) (http://laundry.about.com/od/definitions/g/Dry-Cleaning.htm) [last accessed: March 12th, 2013] Workplace Health and Safety Queensland, Department of Justice and AttorneyGeneral Information guide: Dry cleaning and laundry industry series - Chemicals PN10217 Version 2. Last updated February 2010. (http://www.deir.qld.gov.au/workplace/resources/pdfs/sb_drycleaning_chemicals_gui dancesheet.pdf) [last accessed: January 9th 2013] Kamal |46 ‘Ashley Lubyk’ ‘Clean and Chemically’ ‘Clean and Chemically’ (posted: October 17th 2008) (http://www.greencalgary.org/ask-ashley/details/clean-and-chemically/)[last accessed: 17th june 2013] ‘Ethylene Dibromide (Dibromoethane)’ ‘Technology Transfer Network Air Toxics Web Site’ (posted: 6/11/2007) (http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/tet-ethy.html) [last accessed : march 20th 2012. Fit Custom Shirts’ ‘Home dry cleaning tips for laymen’ ‘FCS fit custom shirts’ (posted:2011) (http://www.fitcustomshirts.com/blog/home-dry-cleaning-tips-for-laymen/) accessed: June [last 3rd 2013] ‘Sarah F. Berkowitz’ ‘How to avoid dry cleaning dangers’ ‘mnn( mother nature network)’ (posted: Tue, Mar 08, 2011) (http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/natural-beauty-fashion/stories/how-to-avoid-drycleaning-dangers) [last accessed: june 3rd 2013] ‘Drycleaning’ ‘Environment, Health and Safety Online’ (last updated :June 6th,2013) (http://www.ehso.com/ehshome/drycleaningdangers.php) [last accessed: June 18th, 2013] Kamal |47 ‘Noemia, D Souza’, ‘Fabric Care’ (New Age International, 01-Jan-1998) ‘pg 87 to 129.’ (http://books.google.com.pk/books?id=LA0NdnTHmLMC&dq=is+dry+cleaning+imp ortant+for+normal+fabric&source=gbs_navlinks_s) ‘ Anna Woodward’ Clothing label regulations for your garment’ ‘Fiber2Fashion’ (posted:2013) (http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/5/401/clothing-labelregulations1.asp) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013] ‘Ann Marie McQueen’ ‘Green Queen: Look for eco-friendly alternatives to drycleaning’, ‘THE NATIONAL’ (posted: May 11, 2011) (http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/house-home/green-queen-look-for-eco-friendlyalternatives-to-dry-cleaning#page1) [last accessed: June 3rd 2013] ‘Ayesha Hoda’ ‘Ready to embrace elegance’ ‘AURORA , First published in the November-December 2012 issue of Aurora.’(Posted on January 15, 2013). (http://auroramag.wordpress.com/2013/01/15/ready-to-embrace-elegance/) [Last accessed: June 3rd 2013] Snowhite drycleaners, (http://www.starz.pk/biz/karachi/snowhite-drycleaners-saddar) (http://www.epa.gov/) Kamal |48 Figure 1: http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/house-home/green-queen-look-for-eco-friendlyalternatives-to-dry-cleaning http://www.thenational.ae/lifestyle/house-home/green-queen-look-for-eco-friendlyalternatives-to-dry-cleaning#ixzz2Wl2ByOYA Figure 2: http://www.google.com.pk/search?gs_rn=17&gs_ri=psyab&suggest=p&cp=20&gs_id=27&xhr=t&q=pret+rise+in+karachi&rlz=1R2ADFA_enPK42 6&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48175248,d.Yms&biw=1280&bih=591&wrapid=tljp1371730 210105038&um=1&ie=UTF8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=MPHCUYbKOZDJsgbU34DgDw#um= 1&rlz=1R2ADFA_enPK426&hl=en&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=dry+clean+only&oq=dry+clean+o nly&gs_l=img.3..0l10.38686.43470.14.43889.14.4.0.10.10.2.354.963.1j0j2j1.4.0...0.0...1c.1. 17.img.Prtsog4hEc&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48175248,d.Yms&fp=32a60a57d51b029f&biw=1280&bi h=591&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=FjHSbFpkAamekM%3A%3BoP65wcJV3ykFQM%3Bhtt p%253A%252F%252Fwww.misi.co.uk%252Fuploadedimages%252F4357224drycleanonly.j pg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.misi.co.uk%252Fgifts%252F28885%3B800%3B600 Figure 3: Kamal |49 Mary Marlowe Leverette’ ‘Dry Cleaning by Mary Marlowe Leverette’ ‘About.com, laundry’ (posted: upload date unknown) (http://laundry.about.com/od/definitions/g/Dry-Cleaning.htm) [last accessed: March 12th, 2013] Figure 4: http://www.google.com.pk/imgres?q=dizziness&um=1&rlz=1R2ADFA_enPK426&hl=en&b iw=1280&bih=591&tbm=isch&tbnid=32_jxnKDEi3YM:&imgrefurl=http://brooklynchiropractor.blogspot.com/2013/01/80-of-patients-withdizziness-improve.html&docid=5fe8gXs7fBhfVM&imgurl=http://4.bp.blogspot.com/JHmVCXHrpAk/UQbjVNQ0WkI/AAAAAAAAAYs/2KZdDZaoj4/s1600/dizzy.jpg&w=1600&h=1216&ei=igbDUfvrFs31sgbwooC4DQ&zoom=1&ved= 1t:3588,r:26,s:0,i:170&iact=rc&page=2&tbnh=175&tbnw=230&start=11&ndsp=17&tx=128 &ty=136#imgdii=32_jxnKD-Ei3YM%3A%3BTfaus2x6w7hNhM%3B32_jxnKDEi3YM%3A Figure 5: http://images.wisegeek.com/gentle-cycle.jpg Figure 6: Kamal |50 http://www.google.com.pk/search?gs_rn=17&gs_ri=psyab&suggest=p&cp=10&gs_id=1e&xhr=t&q=fabric+care+symbols&rlz=1R2ADFA_enPK42 6&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48175248,d.bGE&biw=1280&bih=591&wrapid=tljp1371729 422498020&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=G7CUZ3qEqOE4gT5vYHgCQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=qspc7kc5xk92UM%3A%3BvxZB MkjJF9CgPM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.flyingneedle.ca%252Fwpcontent%252Fuploads%252F2008%252F05%252Flaundry-care-guidethumb.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.flyingneedle.ca%252Fsewing-tips-andprojects%252Ffabric-care-what-do-all-those-symbols-mean%252F%3B499%3B600 http://www.flyingneedle.ca/sewing-tips-and-projects/fabric-care-what-do-all-those-symbolsmean/ Figure 7: http://somethinghaute.wordpress.com/2012/01/22/brands-just-pret/ Figure 8: http://www.google.com.pk/imgres?q=pret+wear+local+stores&um=1&rlz=1R2ADFA_enPK 426&hl=en&biw=1280&bih=591&tbm=isch&tbnid=Fa3OTZd9gSfMuM:&imgrefurl=http:// auroramagazine.blogspot.com/2011/10/little-shop-with-bigideas.html&docid=rkZV6_X1eOh3sM&imgurl=http://3.bp.blogspot.com/6t3sY9VDgxs/TpwqSHNbuPI/AAAAAAAAAuE/rD_ouKVSQBE/s1600/DSC_0229.JPG& w=1600&h=1063&ei=8gLDUdbHHYKBtAbrxoGgDA&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:90,s:0,i:36 5&iact=rc&page=5&tbnh=167&tbnw=243&start=86&ndsp=19&tx=89&ty=71 Figure 9: Kamal |51 http://www.google.com.pk/imgres?q=dry+clean+only&start=138&um=1&sa=N&rlz=1R2A DFA_enPK426&biw=1280&bih=591&hl=en&tbm=isch&tbnid=9UkAy8HvHxEqfM:&imgr efurl=http://pinterest.com/allamaye/what-are-wordsfor/&docid=OD2DhZXHmpq15M&imgurl=http://media-cacheec3.pinimg.com/192x/8e/ef/38/8eef383a463bace3435c7dce3027901b.jpg&w=192&h=192&e i=VgHDUb_XD83ltQaVu4CIBw&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:56,s:100,i:172&iact=rc&page=9 &tbnh=153&tbnw=139&ndsp=23&tx=92&ty=108 Figure 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14: Photo credits: sidrah kamal Figure 15: http://www.google.com.pk/search?gs_rn=17&gs_ri=psyab&suggest=p&cp=20&gs_id=27&xhr=t&q=pret+rise+in+karachi&rlz=1R2ADFA_enPK42 6&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48175248,d.Yms&biw=1280&bih=591&wrapid=tljp1371730 210105038&um=1&ie=UTF8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=MPHCUYbKOZDJsgbU34DgDw#um= 1&rlz=1R2ADFA_enPK426&hl=en&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=dry+clean+only&oq=dry+clean+o nly&gs_l=img.3..0l10.38686.43470.14.43889.14.4.0.10.10.2.354.963.1j0j2j1.4.0...0.0...1c.1. 17.img.Prtsog- Kamal |52 4hEc&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48175248,d.Yms&fp=32a60a57d51b029f&biw=1280&bi h=591&imgdii Figure 16: http://www.google.com.pk/imgres?q=dry+clean+only&start=138&um=1&sa=N&rlz=1R2A DFA_enPK426&biw=1280&bih=591&hl=en&tbm=isch&tbnid=9UkAy8HvHxEqfM:&imgr efurl=http://pinterest.com/allamaye/what-are-wordsfor/&docid=OD2DhZXHmpq15M&imgurl=http://media-cacheec3.pinimg.com/192x/8e/ef/38/8eef383a463bace3435c7dce3027901b.jpg&w=192&h=192&e i=VgHDUb_XD83ltQaVu4CIBw&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:56,s:100,i:172&iact=rc&page=9 &tbnh=153&tbnw=139&ndsp=23&tx=92&ty=108#imgdii=9UkAy8HvHxEqfM%3A%3B2n 2hW8Ui95FIlM%3B9UkAy8HvHxEqfM%3A\. figure 17: http://www.google.com.pk/imgres?q=dry+clean+only&start=161&um=1&sa=N&rlz=1R2A DFA_enPK426&biw=1280&bih=591&hl=en&tbm=isch&tbnid=cbeZ4803P3IbEM:&imgref url=http://www.neworleansmomsblog.com/2013/04/03/mom-o-flauge-ways-to-look-cute-butstill-be-momcomfortable/&docid=ci5I9g6BaeZcvM&imgurl=http://www.neworleansmomsblog.com/wpcontent/uploads/2013/04/dry-cleanonly.jpg&w=2066&h=2263&ei=VgHDUb_XD83ltQaVu4CIBw&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:6 5,s:100,i:199&iact=rc&page=10&tbnh=216&tbnw=206&ndsp=18&tx=112&ty=135. Kamal |53 APPENDICES I commenced with an interview from Sania Maskatiya by asking her several questions, each followed by another. The purpose was to find out how she is taking care of her garment under her label and also her knowlegde about drycleaning and what are the reasons behind the use of statement of “dryclean only”. Below are the exact words from Sania which I had earlier edited in the chapter of findings and analysis. “I did my 4 year Bachelors in Textile designing from Indus Valley School of Arts and Architecture and graduated in the year 2004. Why textiles because I have always been a fashion oriented person and I love to intricate designs. I started working as a designer under the label of ‘Chammak’. Later on I started my own label under the name of Sania Maskatiya. Since then I’m working as a CEO and head designer, Sania Maskatiya.” “Under my label, the pret wear is divided into four sections, casual, formal, semi-formal and bridal. For each section I use a variety of fabrics, like for instance, for casuals I use cotton, lawn and voile and for formals, semi-formals and bridals I utilize shiffons and crape mostly. I also use different embellishments for my pret wear like, block printing, screen printing, digital printing, including different types of embroideries, for example, thread work, bead work, laces, buttons etc.” Kamal |54 “I always prefer hand washing for my personal clothing rather than giving it for dry cleaning. Clothes that really need to be dry-cleaned like, silks or chiffons, are better off being giving for dry cleaning otherwise it is not fair for the casual wear like lawn or cotton to always being sent for dry cleaning. It is adviced to all the manufacturers of lawn, cotton and linen to not label their garments as ‘dry-clean only’ instead they should easily hand or machine washed at homes but if the garment possesses some fancy buttons or any other embellishments then the machine my ruin them and so it wouldn’t be preferable. For the semi-formals, formals and bridals, dry cleaning is recommended.” “I think the reason why the trend of dry cleaning is increasing day by day among the local public is because the clothes, especially the formal wear, appear to be newer and better to them and I believe it gives them satisfaction as well as make them carefree because of the fact that their clothes will be safe and sound at the shop and will be stain free as soon as they are returned.” “I always make sure that I wash my personal pret wear at home, however, if it’s a silk tunic then yes dry cleaning is a must.” “Yes, absolutely our brand does use the tag-line ‘dry-clean only’ in some of our lines. “Yes, it does use the above tagline it’s because some outfits have block, screen print detailing with silk finishing, the colour will not run but it’s recommended to dry clean them.” Kamal |55 “Yes, dry cleaning is necessary for some, selected garments such as, crepe, silk or formal wear and “Harmful if these possess chemicals? bead Uno, work not or really. kaam I’m then it unaware is a I must.” guess.” “If it is our lawn line then yes, we do provide our customers with complete information of washing, handling and care of the product.” “No, providing the customer with the pros and cons of the dry cleaning is entirely up to the client. Personally I wash my clothes at home and steam them myself.” “If the formal education of fabric care is made compulsory for a textile or fashion designer then yes it would be very helpful indeed. More and more people are entering this field including the ones having no qualification or education regarding their profession. So yes it will truely benefit such individuals specially the ones with no textile or fashion background.” Kamal |56 QUESTIONNAIRE 1 NAME GENDER OCCUPATION 1. IF YOU VISIT A MALL WHICH LOCAL BRANDS WOULD YOU PREFER TO BUY FROM? a. KHAADI b. SHEEP c. THREADS 2. WOULD YOU PREFER READY TO WEAR OR UNSTITCHED FROM THE ABOVE MENTIONED SHOPS? a. STITCHED b. UNSTITCHED Kamal |57 3. IS YOUR SELECTED BRAND IS RELIABLE? WHO YOU COULD TRUST ON? a. YES b. NO 4. DO YOU CHECK ON THE QUALITY OF THE OVER ALL GARMENT WHILE PURCHASING IT? a. YES b. NO 5. ARE YOU CONCERNED ABOUT THE PROS AND CONS OF THE PRODUCT? a. YES b. NO 6. BEFORE PURCHASING OF A PRODUCT DO YOU CHECK ON THE TAG? a. YES b. NO Kamal |58 7. DOES THE TAG PROVIDE YOU WITH THE SUFFICIENT PRECAUTIONS? a. YES b. NO 8. DID YOU COME ACROSS ANY DAMAGE IF YOU DID NOT FOLLOW THE SUFFICIENT PRECAUTIONS? a. YES b. NO c. 9. HAND WASH OR DRYCLEAN? WHICH METHOD IS BETTER FOR THE FOLLOWING MATERIAL? COTTON ( HANDWASH/DRYCLEAN) LAWN ( HANDWASH/DRYCLEAN) LINEN ( HANDWASH/DRYCLEAN) SILK ( HANDWASH/DRYCLEAN) CHIFFON ( HANDWASH/DRYCLEAN) Kamal |59 9. WHICH PRODUCTS DO YOU USAULLY GIVE IN FOR DRY CLEANING? a. LAWN / LINEN KURTA b. EMBROIDERED LAWN SUIT c. SILK AND CHIFFON SUIT 10. ARE YOU AWARE ABOUT THE CHEMICALS USED IN DRY CLEAN? a. YES b. NO 11. DO YOU TAKE SUGGESTIONS REGARDING THE PRODUCT FROM YOUR DRY CLEANER OR YOU JUST HANDED OVER TO HIM? a. YES b. NO 12. HAVE YOU EVER ENCOUNTERED ANY DAMAGE AFTER DRYCLEANING? a. OFTEN b. MOSTLY c. NOT A SINGLE TIME Kamal |60 QUESTIONNAIRE 2 1. NAME OF THE SHOP? 2. NAME OF THE OWNER? 3. NAME OF THE SALES MAN? 4. FOR HOW LONG THIS FIRM HAVE BEEN WORKING? 5. ARE YOU SATISFIED WITH YOUR SALES? 6. ARE YOU PROVIDING A HEALTHY ATMOSPHERE TO YOUR WORKERS? Kamal |61 7. ARE YOUR CUSTOMERS SATISFIED WITH YOUR WORK? 8. DID YOU AND YOUR WORKERS HAVE ANY ACADEMIC KNOWLEDGE? FROM WHERE? 9. HAVE YOU DONE ANY DETAILED STUDY ABOUT DRY CLEAN? 10. ARE YOU AWARE ABOUT THE CHEMICALS USED IN DRY CLEAN? 11. ARE YOU AWARE ABOUT THE CHEMICAL PERCCHLOROETHELYNE USED IN DRY CLEAN? Kamal |62 12. DO YOU FOLLOW ANY PERTICULAR METHODS OF DRY CLEAN? 13. WHAT KIND OF PRODUCTS ARE MOSTLY BROUGHT UP BY THE CUSTOMERS? 14. WHICH APPAREL BASED PRODUCTS IS OFTEN BROUGHT UP FOR DRY CLEAN? 15. HOW MANY PEOPLE BRING IN YOU THE PRODUCTS WHICH COULD BE WASHED AT HOME? Kamal |63 16. WHICH MATERIAL REALLY NEEED TO BE DRY CLEANED? Kamal |64 INTERVIEW QUESTIONS NAME EDUCATIONAL BACKGROUND What common fabrics do you use for your prêt wear? Do you prefer hand/machine wash or dry cleaning? Which fabrics do you recommend being hand/machine washed and dry clean? Why? Why do you think the trend of dry cleaning is increasing day by day among the local public? Why do you think designers nowadays recommend dry cleaning even if it's a simple shirt or kurta? Does your brand use the 'dry clean only' tagline for products? If yes, can you explain why ? Why do you think it's necessary for a garment to be dry cleaned only? Are you aware of the harmful chemicals used in the dry clean process? Kamal |65 Does your brand provide customers with complete information washing and care for the product? Explain? Do you believe that it is the responsibility of our designers to provide their customer with the pros and cons of the dry cleaning? Do you think that formal education of fabric care shall be made compulsory for a textile/fashion designer? If so, why? Kamal |66 MARKET SURVEY CHECK LIST LOCAL BRANDS DRYMATERIAL PRODUCTS PRICE CLEAN YES / NO KHAADI SHEEP GENERATION KOEL THREADS BEACH TREE EGO ZAHRA AHMED AGHA NOOR NAZ JUNAID MARIA.B NISHAT NIDA AZWER SANIA MASKATIYA HAND WASH