Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland
Transcription
Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland
Journal of Coastal Research SI 71 131–142 Coconut Creek, Florida 2014 Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland Agnieszka Strusińska-Correia Leichtweiß-Institute for Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources Department of Hydromechanics and Coastal Engineering Technische Universität Braunschweig, Germany [email protected] www.cerf-jcr.org ABSTRACT Strusińska-Correia, A., 2014. Beach stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland. In: Silva, R., and Strusińska-Correia, A. (eds.), Coastal Erosion and Management along Developing Coasts: Selected Cases. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 71, pp. 131–142. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. www.JCRonline.org The coastal erosion on the Baltic Sea at Kołobrzeg (Poland) is a result of the superposition of the local hydrodynamics and the anthropogenic factors of this multi-functional, intensively developing city. Particularly high rates of erosion are observed along the 3 km-long shore, east of the port, despite countermeasures undertaken (groynes, seawalls, waveblocks and beach nourishment). In view of the increasing importance of Kołobrzeg as a tourist resort and the investment boom taking place in the immediate vicinity of the shoreline, the preservation of the disappearing beaches and protection of the low-lying urbanized areas became a burning issue for the local authorities. However, the means of coastal protection applied have been ineffective and have also impaired the natural beauty of the beach. The continuous submerged breakwater of length of almost 3 km, constructed in 2010 - 2012, seems to have stabilized the beach, although its impact on the adjacent coastal sections and environment requires further analysis. In this paper, the causes of the coastal erosion at Kołobrzeg are discussed, based on the morpho-geological and hydrodynamic conditions as well as the character of the urban development. The beach protection used is analyzed chronologically in terms of its effectiveness and novelty. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Coastal erosion, Baltic Sea, groynes, waveblocks, submerged breakwater. ____________________ DOI: 10.2112/SI71-016.1 received 5 March 2014; accepted in revision 4 August 2014. © Coastal Education & Research Foundation 2014 (City Kołobrzeg). 0 100 km Elevation [m] INTRODUCTION The very attractive location and resulting favorable climate gives Kołobrzeg the potential to become one of the most important tourist destinations on the western coast of the Polish Baltic Sea (Figure 1). The development of this city from a small fishing port at the end of 1950, with an estimated population of 6,800, into a popular health resort and spa, with some 47,000 inhabitants, was conditioned by the availability of natural resources and the favorable marine climate for disease treatment. While the tourist boom on the Polish coast has generally started in the second half of the 20th century, as the country recovered from the World War II, Kołobrzeg had already become famous for its brine baths at the beginning of the 19th century, when it was a part of Prussia. Nowadays, about 27 sanatoriums, of which 23 are open all year, offer respiratory, cardiovascular and joint diseases as well as metabolic disorders treatments, combining the medical properties of brine/mineral water springs, peloidbeds and fresh air (Miedziński, 2012 and City Kołobrzeg). Despite rather low sea temperatures (under 20° C on average in summer) and a very short bathing season (June to August), the number of tourists staying at Kołobrzeg has been increasing constantly in recent years: 106,000 in 1995 and more than double in 2008, of which about 36 % were international visitors 3 000 2 000 1 000 0 200 500 500 300 0 1 000 2 000 Figure 1. Location of Kołobrzeg on the Polish coast of the Baltic Sea (map: http://www.eea.europa.eu/data-and-maps). As well as the tourist and spa sectors, the seaport in Kołobrzeg represents the second dynamically developing 132 Strusińska-Correia _________________________________________________________________________________________________ 54°12’0’’N branch. The port, located at mouth of the Parsęta River, is used for commerce and fishing; it has a marina and a ferry harbour. In 2006, cargo traffic was 157,600 t. In 2006, almost 19,000 international passengers passed through the port (Port of Kołobrzeg). Constant expansion of the port and modifications of the port entrance, including elongation of the jetties, have been required to increase the operational capacity of the port. As the tourism is of paramount importance for local economic development, improvement of the tourist infrastructure and tourist entertainment options, in particular the maintenance of wide, sandy beaches, govern the development strategies of the city. Kołobrzeg has already three sea baths, shown in Figure 2: the Central and East Beach at the eastern coast and the West Beach at the western coast. East Beach a) Central Beach Baltic Sea 54°11’0’’N D4 N N KM 335 D2 54°10’0’’N D5 D6 D7 N KM 334 D3 D1 D13 D12 D10 D11 KM 328 D9 N N N KM 331 D8 N KM 333 N KM 329 KM 330 KM 332 Kołobrzeg KM 336 0 KM 337 1 km KM 338 15°30’0’’E 15°31’0’’E 15°32’0’’E 15°33’0’’E 15°34’0’’E 15°35’0’’E 15°36’0’’E 15°37’0’’E 15°38’0’’E Old wooden seawall Waveblock unit Geotextile tubes filled with sand N Beach nourishment Tetrapod unit Submerged breakwater (including groynes) Steel/concrete seawall with reinforced cap Roubble mound revetment Figure 2. Coastline at Kołobrzeg: (a) with existing coastal protection structures and kilometrage (KM) according to Maritime Office (after Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008; map courtesy of T. Marcinkowski, Maritime Institute in Gdańsk); (b) aerial view from 29.08.2012, the wide beach between pier and Kamienny Szaniec (the East Bulwark) after nourishment performed in June - October 2012 (Google Earth). The East Beach, 150 m long, is located in the Podczele district between KM 327.0 and KM 328.0 (where KM denotes the kilometrage defined by the Maritime Office); the Central Beach, 750 m long, at the river mouth (between KM 333.0 and KM 334.0) and the 350 m long West Beach, west of the port (between KM 335.0 and KM 336.0) (Sea baths in Kołobrzeg). Only the West Beach does not require stabilization and thus it has preserved its natural character. However, due to its unfavorable location (on the other side of the city), it is not as popular among the tourists. The other two beaches lie in a coastal section that has been strongly modified by both intensive human activities and local hydrodynamic conditions. As a result of the occurring erosion, these beaches would have almost disappeared, if it were not for the repeated beach nourishment work carried out since 1982. The range of coastal protection structures at Kołobrzeg consists currently of a very dense network of "hard" and "soft" countermeasures (e.g., groynes, seawalls, waveblocks, tetrapods, beach nourishment and biotechnical methods), established over many years to stabilize the beaches and to protect the city against flooding. This unique system illustrates the historical development of coastal engineering in this region, as it includes old groynes built at the beginning of the 20th century by the Germans (the remains were replaced in 2010 - 2012 during the construction of a submerged breakwater), typical structures constructed in Poland between 1980 and 1990 as well as more innovative means of protection such as waveblocks and the submerged breakwater. The increasing number and the variety of the coastal protection structures at Kołobrzeg indicate their ineffectiveness and result most probably from a poor understanding of sediment budget and local hydrodynamics. In this paper, the advantages and disadvantages of the beach protection measures, applied at Kołobrzeg over the last 150 years, are discussed under the consideration of the type and historical evolution of the factors influencing the local erosive processes. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE STUDY AREA Bathymetry and Geomorphologic Conditions Kołobrzeg is located in the middle of the coast of the West Pomeranian Voivodeship, between the Słowińskie and Trzebiatowskie Coast (see Figures 1 and 2). Due to the lowlying and swampy character of the area, on which the city is built (about 3 km2 of its urbanized part lies only 0.0 - 2.5 m above mean sea level), as well as its proximity to the open Baltic Sea, the city is highly prone to flooding, which is likely to intensify by the rising sea level due to global climate change (e.g., Zeidler, 1994 and Cieślak, 2007). The substratum in this area is formed by deep layers of glacial till with accumulations of alluvial - peat material above. The till layer occurs very close to the surface at the western beach (ca. 0.2 m below mean sea level), while the peat layer occurs directly below the dunes. Both layers are very often uncovered during heavy storms by washing away of the upper sandy layer (Łabuz, 2003; Łabuz and Łuczyńska, 2010). The Parsęta River, dividing the city into a western and eastern part, has determined the convex shape of the coast at its mouth through sediment accumulation. This cone-like shore, stretching from km 331.5 to km 337.0, as shown in Figure 2, has produced a shoreface platform that is ca. 1.5 km wide, 550 m long, 4 - 5 m deep with very steep slopes (up to 1:15) at the seaward side (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008). Kołobrzeg lies partially on an area originally covered by a dune system which has been heavily modified by human intervention over a long period, (i.e. urban growth, harbour expansion, tourism, military and coastal protection structures) as well as by severe storms (Figure 3). A system of well-preserved dunes protects the natural, relatively wide sandy beaches (on Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 Coastal Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland 133 _________________________________________________________________________________________________ average 35 m) stretching for 3 km west of the Parsęta River. The swampy area at the extreme west of this dune system, together with the existence of a military area behind, prevents any tourist development here. a) West coast of Kołobrzeg D1: High, natural, blown out dune ridge. Dunes evolve into swampy area to the west. Military area at the back. Numerous beach entrances. D2: High, natural dune ridge. Buildings of tourism purposes at the back. Numerous beach entrances. D9: Badly abraded dune protected by seawall made of waveblocks. Boardwalk on the top/back. D10: Fully abraded dune, land protected by concrete seawall and tetrapods. Boardwalk on the top. D11: Abraded ridge protected by tetrapods. Boardwalk at the back. D12: Abraded dune, beach stabilized by roubble mound with fascines on geotextile (covered by sand). Bunker on the slope, boardwalk at the back. D13: Only narrow dune ridge separating beach from the swamp at the back. D3: Very high, natural dune ridge. Bunker remains on the slope, military area at the back. Dune grass Salix shrub b) East coast of Kołobrzeg D4: Dune protected by sheet pile wall/concrete seawall with geotextile bags filled with sand. Boardwalk on the top. D5: Seaside dune slope covered by wide stairs, terrace and hotel on dune ridge. D6: Small dune ridge protected by fence against tourists, boardwalk on the top. D7: Narrow dune ridge, abraded slope protected by old wooden fence and younger sheet pile wall. Boardwalk on the top. D8: Badly abraded, then regenerated dune protected by concrete seawall. Boardwalk on the top. Concrete seawall, sheet pile wall Tree Wooden fence Geotextile bag filled with sand Building Tetrapod unit Bunker remains Waveblock unit Boardwalk Roubble on fascine Figure 3. Anthropogenic modifications along: (a) west coast; (b) east coast of Kołobrzeg (dune profiles after Łabuz, 2003, sketches courtesy of T. Łabuz, University of Szczecin; photos of D4 - D6, D9 - D11, D13 courtesy of M. Burdukiewicz, Maritime Office in Słupsk; photos of D7 D8 courtesy of B. Zabłocki, Port of Kołobrzeg). Generally, the dunes are wide, high and healthy (particularly in sections D1 and D3; the latter of height of 8 m a.s.l. over a distance of approx. 1.5 km), apart from the central part (D2) where a low, narrow dune ridge has evolved (see Figures 2a and 3a). The entire west dune system is naturally stabilized by vegetation: on the landward slope and over the ridge mostly by oaks and, on the seaward slope, by downy mountain willow and grass (Łabuz, 2003 and 2005; Łabuz and Łuczyńska, 2010). In contrast, the sandy beaches east of the Parsęta River are very narrow and lower than in the western part, reaching on average 2.5 - 4.8 m a.s.l. Dunes have almost disappeared over a distance of 2 km (Figures 2a and 3b) as a result of: (i) erosion caused by unfavorable local hydrodynamic conditions (higher waves approaching the shore as a result of deepening of the foreshore by strong waves reflected from the seawalls, generation of strong rip currents transporting the sediment towards the open sea), (ii) strong urbanization taking place on and behind the dune ridges, aiming at the increase of the attractiveness of the Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 134 Strusińska-Correia _________________________________________________________________________________________________ city (i.e. construction of footpaths, restaurants, hotels, etc.), (iii) construction of the structures protecting the urbanized hinterland against flooding and erosion. The dune ridge has been affected by human activity particularly at the port entrance and at the Central Beach. Moreover, there is a boardwalk/bike path along the coast between the port and the Podczele district. The only intact, vegetated dune sections are at D6 and D13 (Figures 2a and 3b). A 200 m wide green belt, with numerous footpaths, separates the beach from the urbanized area concentrated between KM 331.5 - KM 333.3 and KM 330.0 - KM 330.6 (see Figure 2b). Around 4 km east of the river, a swampy, marshy area begins behind a narrow, low dune (Łabuz, 2003; Łabuz and Łuczyńska, 2010). The sea bottom consists of glacial till and silt with a thin dynamic sand layer of varying thickness and origin in both western and eastern sections of the coast. West of the harbour the sand of diameter of d50=0.149 - 0.304 mm, originating from the sediment exchange on the shore, accumulates as a dynamic layer of between a few centimeters and 2 m. In contrast, the dynamic layer in the eastern part of the coast is very thin or absent and made up of finer particles of d50=0.150 - 0.214 mm (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008). These sand accumulations come mostly from beach nourishment and, to a lesser extent, from the erosion of the sea floor. Climate Conditions The Kołobrzeg climate is determined predominantly by the influence of the Baltic Sea and is characterized by low temperature amplitudes between mild winters and warm summers. The maximum average temperature occurs from June to August and does not exceed 20° C, while the minimum average temperature of -1° C is recorded between January and February. a) Wind rose P [-] N from the Southwest, West and South, as indicated by the mean annual wind rose plotted in Figure 4a. The strongest winds, causing severe storms, occur in January and come from the North, Northeast and Northwest. On average, there are more than 70 days with strong winds (i.e. of speed not exceeding 10 m/s) and about 20 days with very strong winds with speed up to 16 m/s (Borodziuk, 2008). Maximum annual precipitation is around 675 mm; the highest monthly rainfall (85 mm) occurs mainly in July, while the lowest (more than 30 mm) occurs in February and April. There is snow cover (maximum 0.2 m thick) for 40 - 60 days in the year. Ice covers the sea from February to mid of March for up to 43 days but usually 7 - 15 days on average (Łabuz, 2005 and Borodziuk, 2008). Tide, Wave and Water Level Conditions Conditions in the Baltic Sea are dominated by surface waves (wind waves and swells), while the influence of tides can be ignored, since the maximum tidal amplitude reaches only a few centimeters (i.e. the sea is microtidal) (Furmańczyk, 2013). A wave rose for the coast of Kołobrzeg, depicted in Figure 4b, represents wave heights generated at a water depth of 20 m by the mean annual wind shown in Figure 4a. These results were obtained using the quasi-spectral method developed by Kryłow et al., (1976) due to the lack of in situ measurements (Zeidler et al., 1995; Szmytkiewicz et al., 1998). b) Wave rose 0.16 P [%] 0.12 0.08 N 10 0.04 0.0 Calm + ~ 0.03 0.0 0.04 0.08 0.12 0.16 P [-] 0.16 0.12 E P [-] (4) (1) E H [m] 0.08 0.04 V [m/s] 0 2 4 6 8 10 (1) 0 < H < 0.25 m (3) 0.51 < H < 1.0 m (2) 0.26 < H < 0.50 m (4) H > 1.0 m Figure 4. Mean annual wind rose (a) and mean annual wave rose (b) for Kołobrzeg (after Zeidler et al., 1995 and Web atlas of the Polish coastal zone). Two periods with different wind conditions can be distinguished: spring - summer from March to October, with winds coming from the sea with speeds of 2.5 - 3.5 m/s and autumn - winter from September to February, with winds coming from the land with speeds of 5 - 7 m/s, but sometimes reaching more than 10 m/s. The majority of the winds come Figure 5. Numerical prediction of hydrodynamics at Kołobrzeg for a storm in October - November 2006: (a) significant wave heights; (b) depth-averaged currents induced by waves (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008; figures courtesy of T. Marcinkowski, Maritime Institute in Gdańsk). Severe storms, characterized by high storm surges which are responsible for the dune erosion, are recorded every 10 - 12 months (Furmańczyk, 2013). Distribution of significant wave heights and wave-induced depth-averaged currents at the coast Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 Coastal Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland 135 _________________________________________________________________________________________________ of Kołobrzeg for a typical storm was analyzed by Marcinkowski and Ossowski (2008) and is presented in Figure 5 for a better understanding of the accompanying wave height/current patterns. The considered storm occurred between October 31 and November 10, 2006 and was characterized by wind speeds of up to 18 m/s, blowing from the East and turning towards the North. Wave propagation and current patterns were obtained based on simulations performed with the MIKE 21/3 model, for which the offshore wave conditions were determined by means of the WAM 4.5 spectral wave propagation model, using recorded wave data. Under these storm conditions, waves of more than 3.0 m reached surf zone, within which their height subsequently decreased as a result of the breaking process. As indicated in Figure 5a, this pattern is repeated over the entire study area. The current pattern differs in the eastern, middle and western parts of the coast as illustrated in Figure 5b. Between KM 329.0 and KM 332.0 (the eastern part), a strong longshore current is generated towards the West, with a speed of 0.5 - 0.7 m/s, in places reaching 0.9 m/s. A weaker longshore current in the opposite direction (i.e. to the East) exists between KM 333.0 - KM 334.0 (in the middle part). Between KM 332.0 and KM 333.0, these two oppositely directed currents generate an offshore current of ca. 0.3 - 0.4 m/s. Behind the western jetty, the current is directed to the West and is characterized by a slight speed increase from 0.4 to 0.6 m/s between KM 334.6 and KM 336.0 (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008). The current mean water level in Kołobrzeg ranges from 501 to 508 cm (zero at the watermark in Kołobrzeg corresponds to 504.4 cm) but the varying wave conditions due to alternating wind and pressure oscillations, cause oscillations of the mean sea level (even up to 3.4 m) as reported by Borodziuk (2008) and Łabuz (2013). Particularly significant fluctuations of the mean sea level, accompanying heavy storms, are normally observed between October and February, with the lowest one of 376 cm, recorded in 1968 and the highest ranging from 527 to 716 cm (where 490 cm represents 0.0 m a.s.l.). Selected historical storm surge records are shown in Table 1 with a maximum of ca. 710 cm occurring in 2009. Table 1. Exemplary records of recent and historical storm surges in Kołobrzeg (Łabuz, 2012a and Port of Szczecin - Świnoujście). Date 02.1874 1883 1899 1914 01.1983 11.1988 11.2006 01.2007 10.2009 Recorded water level (cm) 692 685 670 643 647 ca. 660 ca. 640 ca. 710 The probability of occurrence of annual maximum and minimum sea level for Kołobrzeg is provided in Table 2, based on the Gumbel distribution (Borodziuk, 2008). Increasing mean sea level is a crucial issue for the flood mitigation strategy of Kołobrzeg, since the city is located in a low-lying area and the dune ridge has been successively degraded. A larger intrusion of water into the Baltic Sea basin as well as increase of both storm intensity and frequency are considered as the most important results of the global climate change for this region. Zeidler (1994) and Zeidler et al., (1995) estimated the increase of the water level at Kołobrzeg as ca. 1.1 mm/year, based on long-term observations since 1867 (see Figure 6). Table 2. Probability of occurrence of annual maximum and minimum water levels in Kołobrzeg (after Borodziuk, 2008). Probability 99 90 80 70 50 30 20 10 Years 1.01 1.11 1.25 1.43 2.0 3.33 5 10 Max. (cm) 547 560 568 575 588 605 617 635 Min. (cm) 453 440 434 430 422 413 407 399 5 20 652 392 1 100 689 377 Zawadzka (1996) predicted similar changes in sea levels due to global warming of up to 1.4 mm/year. Cieślak (2007) postulated three different scenarios of the sea level rise applicable to the entire Polish coast: (i) optimistic with the increase of 3 mm/year, (ii) most probable with the increase of 6 mm/year and (iii) pessimistic with the increase of 10 mm/year. Mean water level [cm] 500 Kołobrzeg (1886 – 1985) 495 490 1855 1873 1865 1875 1885 1895 1905 1915 1925 1935 1945 1955 1965 1975 1985 Year Figure 6. Measured 11-year mean sea level at Kołobrzeg (after Zeidler, 1994 and Zeidler et al., 1995). Sediment Transport and Sediment Budget According to Szmytkiewicz et al., (1998) and Boniecka et al., (2010) two directions of longshore sediment transport can be distinguished at Kołobrzeg, depending on the water depth - in smaller depths eastward transport is dominant and weak westward transport occurs in larger depths, with zero net longshore transport for water depth larger than 8.0 m. Thus, the resulting westward longshore sediment predominates weakly at Kołobrzeg, however strong local disturbances occur as mentioned by Borodziuk (2008) and Boniecka et al., (2010). A strong cross-shore sediment transport prevails at the coastal section between the east jetty and the East Bulwark, as indicated by the numerical results presented in Figure 5b. Due to the mentioned deficit of the sediment at the sea bottom and too small sediment supply (ca. 10,000 m3/year from the Parsęta River and less than 100,000 m3 from beach nourishment over a distance of 500 m on average), the sediment budget, particularly in the region between the east jetty and the East Bulwark, is negative. This has conditioned strong erosional processes occurring in this coastal section. EROSION ON THE KOŁOBRZEG COAST Historical development of Kołobrzeg, accounting for reconciliation of its multi-functional character (i.e. settlement, Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 136 Strusińska-Correia _________________________________________________________________________________________________ port, marine fortification, sea/health resort) as well as the erosive character of the local coast are responsible for the modifications of the shoreline. Kołobrzeg has been facing the problem of erosion for a long time (compare Figures 7a and b) as indicated by the building of groynes in the second half of the 19th century. budget (low rate of longshore sediment transport, too small volume of nourished sand used) hampered establishment of the equilibrium at this coastal section. 1500 a) Distance from reference line [m] 1450 1965 1969 1400 1973 1981 1350 1993 1300 1997 1250 Jetties 1200 1150 1100 1050 1500 1750 2000 2250 2500 2750 3000 3250 3500 3750 Distance from reference line [m] Distance alongshore [m] 1500 1400 1300 1200 1100 1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 b) 1976 1993 1997 Jetties/West Bulwark 0 250 500 750 1000 1250 1500 1750 Distance alongshore [m] Figure 7. Evolution of coastline in Kołobrzeg: (a) in 1931 (fotopolska.eu); (b) in October 2008 (Google Earth). Compare the beach width 3 years after nourishment took place (in 2005) and immediately after nourishment (2012) in Figure 2b. The morphologic conditions along the shore of Kołobrzeg vary greatly and sections of significant erosion, weak accretion and a stable beach can be distinguished. The most obvious changes are seen along the eastern coast, particularly at the former Waldenfel`s Bulwark (now Kamienny Szaniec/East Bulwark) at KM 331.5, except for the section located in the shadow of the east jetty. Figure 8a illustrates the changes of shoreline east of the port observed from 1965 to 1997, with maximum retreat up to ca. 50 m within 32 years. Marcinkowski and Ossowski (2008) provided erosion rates of 0.35 m/year on average for a longer observation period between 1875 and 1979, mentioning additionally a clear deepening of the shoreface indicated by shifting of isobath -5.0 m towards the shore. The mentioned steepening of the shoreface was amplified by the construction of the seawalls, which allowed more energetic waves to reach the shoreline and thus to generate rip currents eroding the generally scarce dynamic sediment layer at the sea bottom. This effect of the seawalls and the negative sediment Figure 8. Measured shoreline position at Kołobrzeg: (a) at the east coast in period 1965 - 1997; (b) at the west coast in period 1976 - 1997 (after Szmytkiewicz et al., 1998). A locally limited and rather weak sediment accumulation can be observed at the east coast at the modern, 200 m long pier, constructed in 1971 at KM 333.3. The area around the river mouth shows also weak depositional processes of the sand eroded on the eastern part of the coast as well as that of the beach nourishment programme. The shoreline west of the harbour is stable apart from the section at D3 (see Figure 3a), as indicated by the shoreline positions plotted in Figure 8b. The coast is mainly eroded during the autumn and winter storms. Water levels can increase, as a result of the associated storm surges, by up to ca. 2.0 m (i.e. up to 3.0 - 3.5 m a.s.l.) as indicated by the historical records in Table 1 (where water levels higher than 550 cm result in a flood warning being given; higher than 570 cm is a state of alert; over 600 cm correspond to storm surges and higher than 650 cm to significant storm surges according to Borodziuk, 2008). Typical storm conditions in Kołobrzeg are shown in Figures 9a-c, during which the entire beach is flooded and waves easily overtop the existing waveblock units in the foreshore/seawalls. As a result, the sand Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 Coastal Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland 137 _________________________________________________________________________________________________ is washed away from the beach (see Figure 9d) – exemplarily, the sand deposited in the 2005 nourishment process was completely washed away already by November 2006 and further 60 % of the available sand were eroded by February 2007 as analyzed by Łabuz (2012a). The beach did not recover due to the lack of sediment supply. Apart from the degradation of the natural environment, infrastructure losses are caused by heavy storm surges - for example destruction of a part of a bike path to the Podczele district in 2012 (Figure 9e) and washing out of the wooden piles from the groynes built in the same year (Figure 9f). Figure 9. Storm conditions and storm-induced damage on the east coast of Kołobrzeg in 2012: (a) near entrance to the port; (b) overtopping of waveblock units at Kamienny Szaniec (the East Bulwark); (c) overtopping of sheet pile wall at Kamienny Szaniec; (d) eroded beach in front of a sheet pile wall near the entrance to the port; (e) eroded bike path; (f) washed out piles from the groynes built in 2012 (photos courtesy of R. Dziemba, Miastokolobrzeg.pl). The construction and successive expansions of the jetties in the port in Kołobrzeg, located at the mouth of the Parsęta River, has indisputably disturbed longshore sediment transport, as reported by Szmytkiewicz et al., (1998). The first reference to the port was made around 880 AD, although it was not until 1880 that it became an important German fishing port (City Kołobrzeg). Nowadays, the port is used for trade, fishing, passenger transport, naval and recreational activities. Construction details for the port date back to the first half of the 19th century: structures stabilizing both banks at the river mouth were modified in 1830 into crib-type jetties of length of 115 m on the west and 155 m on the east side, and later, in 1853, into mound-type jetties of length of 120 m and 200 m, respectively (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008). In order to achieve the required water depth at the port entrance the jetties were extended in 1858 to 214 m and 313 m, respectively. The current geometry of the jetties is a result of the construction work that took place in 2000 - 2010: the length of the east jetty was extended to 452 m and that of the west one to 513 m (their length yielded 205 m and 308 m before 2010, respectively). The entrance to the port was widened from 40 to 80 m (Development of Port of Kołobrzeg). Analysis of old maps indicated a retreat of the shoreline after the construction of the port by 40 - 80 m at the height of the East Bulwark and a simultaneous sand accretion westwards of the port (Szmytkiewicz et al., 1998). The construction and removal of marine fortifications from the 19th century have also contributed to the changes in the local shoreline. Kołobrzeg became an official fortification of Brandenburg (Prussia) in 1653, however its defense role increased after the war with France in 1807. Modification and expansion works of the existing fortification facilities were performed in 1832 - 1836, in the framework of which two bulwarks were constructed at the shore: the Heyde`s Bulwark at KM 334.6, protecting the port, and the Waldenfel`s Bulwark at KM 331.5 with a rubble-mound embankment for the defense of the east part of the fortification. The fortress-character of Kołobrzeg hindered the parallel development of the health resort, which led to the decommissioning of the land and marine defenses in 1872 and 1887, respectively. The ruins of the Waldenfel`s Bulwark were removed in 1972, resulting in very intensive erosion of this coastal belt, stopped partially by the construction of a sheet pile wall (see Figure 10a). The remains of the Heyde`s Bulwark were removed during the reconstruction of the port in 2000 - 2010. The tourist and recreational developments since the end of the 20th century have also caused negative impact on the coast. As already mentioned, Kołobrzeg was already a famous sea resort at the end of the 19th century and it has the potential to become one of the most important tourist destinations in the western part of the Polish Baltic Sea. In order to increase its attractiveness, many hotels, restaurants and apartments have been built on the seafront of the eastern shore of Kołobrzeg, over the dune crests, while the western coast remains relatively unaffected by human activity. Examples of modifications to the coastal zone between KM 333.3 and KM 334.0 are shown in Figure 10b - the construction of a boardwalk on the dune ridge as well as further adaptation of the region behind the boardwalk resulted in a complete degradation of the dune system. COUNTERMEASURES AGAINST COASTAL EROSION: A HISTORICAL OVERVIEW The history of the protection measures taken against erosion in Kołobrzeg is relatively long, reaching back to the second half of the 19th century, when Kołobrzeg belonged to Prussia. Nowadays, the existing coastal defense system, described in Table 3 and shown in Figure 2a, is very complex and dense (covering almost 80 % of the local shore according to Łabuz and Łuczyńska, 2010), particularly on the ca. 3 km-long eastern part of the shore. Prior to 2012 the protection measures against flooding and erosion were ineffective, despite their number and range (hard and soft - e.g., groynes, concrete seawalls, sheet pile walls, waveblocks, tetrapods, dune reconstruction, beach nourishment), as indicated by the shoreline changes in Figure 8. A historical overview of shoreline protection at Kołobrzeg is provided below. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 138 Strusińska-Correia _________________________________________________________________________________________________ towards the open sea (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008; Łabuz, 2012b). During severe storm conditions, mentioned in Table 1, the water level rises from the reference water level of 490 cm to more than 600 cm (i.e. 2.5 - 3.0 m above the reference water level). As a result the seawall crown (located 3.0 - 3.5 m above the reference water level) is overtopped by waves reaching height of 1.0 - 2.0 m on average. Table 3. Coastal defense structures at Kołobrzeg (based on Borodziuk, 2008; Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008). No. Construction Beginning End Length year (KM) (KM) (m) PRUSSIA 1 1873 At 327.0 2 1887 – 1888 At 331.5 - Figure 10. Examples of existing countermeasures against erosion at Kołobrzeg: (a) a sheet pile wall with a reinforced cap west of the East Bulwark; (b) tetrapods and waveblocks along the eroded dune at KM 330.89; (c) and (d) waveblocks used as a permeable breakwater at the Eastern Bulwark; e) submerged breakwater with new groynes, f) beach stabilization between KM 329.0 and KM 330.0; a combination of geotextile sheets, rubble and fascines (photos (a) and (e) courtesy of A. Głuszkiewicz, Moebius Bau Polska and B. Zabłocki, Port of Kołobrzeg; photos (b) and (c) courtesy of M. Burdukiewicz, Urząd Morski Słupsk). All photos taken between 2010 and 2012. In the 19th and at the beginning of the 20th century, wooden groynes were the most common structures used for beach stabilization. Already in 1873, the east part of the shore at KM 327.0 was protected by 13 groynes and another 7 groynes, together with fascine mattresses, were constructed in 1887 1888 at the East Bulwark at KM 331.5 (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008). In 1898 construction of a wooden seawall between KM 331.56 and KM 333.31 and of another 13 groynes began. Five years later the protection system was extended by new groynes of length of 90 - 100 m and spacing of 100 - 200 m between KM 324.0 and KM 332.88, which was further expanded in the 1930`s (see Table 3). In the period 1955 - 1957 a two-row seawall made of wooden piles, filled with concrete blocks, was built between KM 330.08 - KM 330.94 and KM 334.72 - KM 336.92. But it was not until the 1960`s, when the country became stable after the World War II, that important countermeasures against erosion at Kołobrzeg were re-started by the Polish authorities (see Table 3). Due to the poor condition of the existing groynes, resulting from the lack of maintenance, a new protection method was introduced at the end of 1980`s, namely seawalls made of sheet pile walls with a reinforced cap, shown in Figure 10a. In fact, the seawalls caused even more intensive erosion of the coast instead of protecting it against negative wave impact, as they have modified the local hydrodynamics by introducing highly reflective conditions, responsible for washing the sediment away 3 1898 – 1901 4 1906 30`s Structure type 13 wooden groynes Fascine mattresses 7 new wooden groynes 331.56 333.31 1750 Wooden seawall 13 new wooden groynes Ca. 324.88 332.88 Ca. 8000 Wooden groynes (length 90 - 100 m spacing 100 - 120 m) Expansion of the groyne group POLAND 5 1982, 1984 – 86 331.40 331.71 315 6 7 1984 – 86 1990 331.70 333.69 332.55 333.89 850 200 8 1992 330.58 330.88 300 9 1993 333.57 353.89 320 10 1993 – 94 333.46 333.57 110 11 12 1994 1995-96 330.58 330.28 330.89 330.57 310 292 13 1994 – 95 330.89 331.37 485 14 1994 – 95 1997 – 98 331.55 331.71 331.70 150 332.11 400 15 2002 – 03 332.055 332.52 465 16 - 331.35 331.67 320 17 - 334.50 334.72 220 18 2010 – 2012 330.40 333.40 3000 Sheet pile wall with a reinforced cap Sheet pile wall Slope stabilization using geotextiles Sheet pile wall with a reinforced cap Sheet pile wall with a reinforced cap Sheet pile wall with a reinforced cap, geotextiles filled with sand at seaward toe of the seawall Tetrapods at wall 12 Sheet pile wall with a reinforced cap, tetrapods at the wall Waveblocks along shoreline Waveblocks in the sea Reinforced cap built on sheet pile wall 6 Reinforced cap built on sheet pile wall 6 Rubble mound embankment Rubble mound embankment Submerged breakwater, groynes Since the beginning of the 1980`s, the beach east of the port, mostly between KM 330.5 and KM 331.8, has been nourished to counteract the erosion that causes a steady narrowing of this Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 Coastal Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland 139 _________________________________________________________________________________________________ stabilization of the eastern part of the coast. The latter is worth of a discussion, since it was originally invented to stabilize banks on Lake Huron in Canada (CANLAND, 1995). A single unit, shown in Figure 14, is 3.0 m long and 1.6 m wide, weighs 6 t and can be combined in a line-type of protection. Nourishment section of the shore. After a 10 year break between the first and second nourishments, the works were repeated almost every year till 2005 with the volume of the nourished sand rarely exceeding 100,000 m3, as shown in Figure 11 (Marcinkowski and Ossowski, 2008). The effect of the nourishment was not permanent, since the artificially widened beach regressed to the pre-nourishment state in the first storm season, as the sand was easily washed away, as illustrated in Figures 12 and 13. The last nourishment was performed in 2012, after the construction of the submerged breakwater, with 702,873 m3 of sand deposited between KM 330.4 and KM 333.4 in order to widen the beach by more than 40 m. Sediment [%] related to nourished sand volume in 2005 Linear changes of sediment 800000 Figure 13. Changes of the nourished sand volume from 2005 to 2010 for a cross section at KM 331.5 (after Łabuz, 2012b). 600000 KM 331.27 - 331.67 90000 m³ KM 333.5 - 334.0 81600 m³ KM 330.4 - 330.9 65400 m³ KM 330.535 - 331.335 120000 m³ KM no data 80000 m³ KM no data 10000 m³ KM no data 12000 m³ KM 331.295 - 331.827 161200 m³ 1982 1992 1994 1995 1996 1998 2000 2003 2004 2005 400000 300000 200000 KM 330.4 - 333.4 700000 m³ KM 330.5 - 331.0 110000 m³ 500000 KM 331.3 - 331.6 41500 m³ Sediment volume used [m³] 700000 100000 0 2012 2025 Year [-] Figure 11. Beach nourishment at Kołobrzeg since 1982. Figure 14. Construction details of a single waveblock unit: (a) dimensions; (b) 3D-view; (c) pre-fabricated unit (photos courtesy of M. Burdukiewicz, Urząd Morski Słupsk). Figure 12. Conditions on the eastern part of the beach in Kołobrzeg: (a) and (b) before nourishment in 2012 at the East Bulwark and west of the East Bulwark, respectively; (c) and (d) after nourishment in 2012 at the East Bulwark (photos courtesy of A. Głuszkiewicz, Moebius Bau Polska and B. Zabłocki, Port of Kołobrzeg). Later in the 1990`s other protection methods such as tetrapods (see Figure 10b), geotextiles and waveblocks were used for the All the elements (i.e. three platforms at an angle of 11°, connected by vertical columns of varying number in a staggered arrangement) are made of reinforced concrete. The particular geometry of this structure enables dissipation of the energy of incoming waves, reduction of wave reflection as compared to seawalls as well as more efficient deposition of the sediment at the landward side of the unit. Two types of protection were constructed in Kołobrzeg in 1994 - 95 using the waveblock units: (i) a 485 m-long stabilization of the eroded dune between KM 330.896 and KM 331.379, as shown in Figure 10b; (ii) a 150 m-long barrier placed on the foreshore between KM 331.555 and KM 331.705, closed at both ends with groynes made of tetrapods as shown in Figures 10c and d. The latter acts as a permeable breakwater, protruding by 0.46 m above the reference water level of 490 cm, while during storm surges it becomes a completely submerged structure with a reduced capability of wave attenuation. Exemplarily, the waveblocks were completely submerged during the storms on 1.11.2006 and 18.1.2007 that caused water level increase up to 660 cm and 640 cm, respectively. According to the field measurements performed by Łabuz and Łuczyńska (2010) from January 2006 Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 140 Strusińska-Correia _________________________________________________________________________________________________ to March 2008, a 250 m wide section of the coast behind the waveblock barrier was continuously eroded. As shown in Figure 15, the width of the beach decreased from ca. 27 m to 0.0 m and its height at the toe of the seawall was reduced from 1.7 m above the reference water level to -0.3 m below it. As observed by Łabuz and Łuczyńska (2010), the original position of the waveblocks placed on the dune and in the sea has been changed by successive storms. According to measurements taken in 2010, the waveblocks at the dune subsided by up to 0.26 m as the sediment beneath was washed away and the block inclined towards the sea by 25°. The position of the waveblocks placed in the sea was modified more as a result of scouring – in the profile considered, they subsided by 0.32 - 0.38 m, and were moved towards the shore by 0.10 - 0.15 m and inclined in the same direction. These changes to the original geometry can be easily observed in Figure 10d, taken in 2012. The recent, most spectacular Polish investment in the field of coastal engineering is the construction of a 3 km-long submerged breakwater, between 2010 and 2012, to stabilize the eastern part of the coast from KM 330.4 to KM 333.4. The breakwater is a continuous permeable structure of a rubble mound type, consisting of 12 main segments (of 95.7 - 240 m in length and a freeboard of 0.7 m) connected with lower units (of length of 32 - 40 m and a freeboard of 1.1 m). The structure is of trapezoidal cross-section, with seaward and landward slopes of 1:4 and 1:2, respectively. The width of the crown is of 0.6 m, while the base width varies from 15 to 20 m, depending on local water depth (Borodziuk, 2008). The breakwater was constructed at a distance of 120 - 150 m from the shoreline, at a water depth of 2 to 4 m. The base of the breakwater was made of a 0.3 m thick granite rubble layer with block weight of 0.5 - 4 kN, placed on a geotextile sheet, while the breakwater body was made of heavier granite blocks of weight of 6 - 8 kN. 4 SSE Sand dune 3 Elevation [m] NNW Sheet pile wall 2 Nourishment 09.2005 Waveblock movement Till 1 07.01.2006 28.11.2006 08.02.2007 07.05.2007 28.03.2008 15.04.2010 23.10.2010 Gravel/pebble 0 -1 -2 0 10 20 30 50 40 60 70 Sand Distance [m] Figure 15. Beach erosion in front of waveblock barrier and waveblock unit relocation observed at cross section at KM 331.5 (after Łabuz, 2013). In order to prevent longshore sediment transport, both ends of the structure were closed with groynes and an additional 35 wooden groynes (110 m long, with a pile diameter of 0.3 - 0.42 m and a spacing of 60 - 106 m) were constructed along the breakwater as presented in Figure 10e. After the construction of the breakwater, the beach was nourished, using more than 700,000 m3 of sand (see Figures 11, 16c and d). The investment cost more than 62 million Polish zloty and was first of this type used in Poland to protect the coast from erosion. DISCUSSION Coastal erosion around Kołobrzeg, more intensive than in adjacent regions, is conditioned predominantly by the unfavourable local morphology, which results in more energetic wave conditions, particularly east of the Parsęta River. Additionally, even during moderate storms, the low-lying beach is easily flooded and prone to wave impact. The beach cannot recover naturally due to the constant negative sediment budget and the general lack of local sources of fine sediment, since (i) the substratum is composed of till, (ii) the only available, thin sediment layer is mainly coarse sediment such as gravel, pebbles, coarse sand, (iii) the influx of the sediment from adjacent coastal sections is blocked by the existing protective structures and the jetty at the port entrance. Other problems are the constant degradation of the eroded dunes by tourists and the increase in tourist infrastructure, built over the dune ridges and in the hinterland. The existing coastal defense system, in particular the seawalls, and the lack of fine sediment hamper natural dune regeneration. As reported by Łabuz and Łuczyńska (2010), the dunes have been planted using selected vegetation species in order to improve their stabilization but this is insufficient when the number of visitors, often with poor ecological awareness, continues to rise. In the case of the wooden groynes, the long period between World War I and the reconstruction of Poland, when there was no maintenance of these structures, caused significant damage to the piles; many of them were simply washed away by wave action and not replaced. The incomplete structure of the groynes and the generally poor condition of the wooden piles has lowered their effectiveness. The erosive processes were intensified by the subsequent construction of the vertical seawalls. Due to the highly reflective character of these structures, the sea bottom in front of the seawalls has been badly eroded, exposing gravel and pebble accumulations in the substratum. Moreover, the height of the seawalls is insufficient to prevent wave overtopping during severe storms, as it was observed during the past storm events. The application of tetrapods and rubble to stabilize the slopes/toes of the eroded dunes was also unsuccessful as the elements sank into the sand. Regarding the waveblock barrier built on the foreshore, this has had a very negative impact on the environment. Firstly, the barrier can effectively attenuate the incoming waves solely in normal sea conditions, while during storms it is easily overtopped. Secondly, longshore sediment transport was disturbed by creating what is, in effect, a closed box, which also precludes the influx of the sediment previously washed away from the beach and its re-deposition on the landward side of the barrier. In addition, the construction became unstable due to scouring at its base, and as a result many units subsided and inclined. Moreover, the waveblocks hampered the natural water exchange and, like the seawalls made of tetrapods, significantly impaired the natural beauty of the beach and worsened bathing conditions (see Figures 16a - c). Considering the need to retain the “natural”, attractiveness of the coast for tourism, an “invisible” submerged breakwater is the most preferable “hard solution” for the purposes of beach Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 71, 2014 Coastal Beach Stabilization at Kołobrzeg, Poland 141 _________________________________________________________________________________________________ stabilization. However, the breakwater built at Kołobrzeg is a very long, continuous structure (ca. 3 km long) with a freeboard which might not be sufficient to force the waves to break over the crest during storm surges of over 2 m. This situation will again induce erosion of the beach, since the waves reaching the shore will be sufficiently energetic to wash the sand away, over the breakwater, towards the open sea (Łabuz, 2012b). Although permeable, it is also expected to negatively influence the water exchange between the offshore and foreshore. Further, by closing the ends of the breakwater and the construction of the very dense group of groynes, modifications to the longshore sediment transport and water circulation were introduced. The geometry of this structure, expected to be more effective in preventing washing away of sand as compared to a system of detached breakwaters, was dictated by the critical state of this beach. Figure 16. Impact of the structural measures taken against erosion in Kołobrzeg on natural and tourist values of the local environment: (a), (b) and (c) eastern coast at the East Bulwark (Kamienny Szaniec), west from and east from the Bulwark, respectively, before 2012; (d) after the construction of a submerged breakwater and beach nourishment in 2012, east from the jetties (photo (a) courtesy of A. Szumski, http://www.wybrzeze.com.pl; photos (b) and (c) courtesy of M. Burdukiewicz, Urząd Morski Słupsk; photo (d) courtesy of A. Głuszkiewicz, Moebius Bau Polska and B. Zabłocki, Port of Kołobrzeg). The most environmentally and tourist-friendly alternative is beach nourishment, as shown in Figure 16d. However, due to the necessity for a systematic repetition of nourishment in order to maintain the required beach width, this solution is regarded as ineffective and temporary by public opinion. Thus, the application of “hard solutions” is generally preferable as their performance is believed to be long-term. Finally, as discussed by Marcinkowski and Ossowski (2008) and Łabuz (2013), the volume of sand used for beach nourishment at Kołobrzeg was very often insufficient when compared to that washed away during storms (typically 70 m3/m). It is also the case of the latest nourishment in Kołobrzeg in 2012. CONCLUSIONS The coastal defense structures at Kołobrzeg were not always designed to meet the criteria of the lowest impact on the natural ecosystem/tourism, but rather according to the principle “the more, the better”. Considering the high number and the diversity of the structures used, one has an impression that the coast of Kołobrzeg, particularly the eastern part, has been used to test their effectiveness in reducing erosion without any preunderstanding of their impact on the adjacent coastal sections and the environment. It is highly recommended to use soft methods of beach stabilization such as nourishment (under condition of a correct determination of the volume of the required sand) and in critical cases, to combine them with carefully designed structures, such as detached breakwaters. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This publication is one of the results of the Regional Network Latin America of the global collaborative project ‘‘EXCEED – Excellence Center for Development Cooperation – Sustainable Water Management in Developing Countries’’ which consists of 35 universities and research centres from 18 countries on 4 continents. The author acknowledges the support of the German Academic Exchange Service DAAD and the Centro de Tecnologia e Geociências da Universidade Federal de Pernambuco,the Fundação de Amparo a Ciência e Tecnologia do Estado de Pernambuco-FACEPE and the Instituto de Ingeniería of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México for the participation in this EXCEED project. The author would like to express gratitude to Mr. B. Zabłocki and Mr. A. Głuszkiewicz for providing the technical data and photos of the submerged breakwater as well as to Prof. K. Furmańczyk, Dr. T. Marcinkowski and Dr. T.A. Łabuz for the permission to use their data, sharing literature related to the coastal erosion in Kołobrzeg and discussion. Special thanks to Dr. M. Burdukiewicz for the waveblock technical data sheet and the photos as well as to Mrs. D. Ścisła-Trojanowska for the information about the geometry of Port of Kołobrzeg. The author would also like to acknowledge Mr. T. Łowkiewicz (http://twierdzakolobrzeg.pl/), Mr. J. Guzdek, Mr. R. Dziemba (Miastokolobrzeg.pl) and Mr. A. Szumski (http://www.wybrzeze.com.pl/) for the permission to use their photos. LITERATURE CITED Boniecka, H.; Cylkowska, H.; Gajecka, A.; Gawlik, W.; Staniszewska, M., and Wandzel., T., 2010. Usuwanie do morza urobku z robót czerpalnych z akwenów stanowiących akwatorium portowe ZMPSiŚ S.A. Raport Instytutu Morskiego w Gdańsku, 158 p. (in Polish). Borodziuk, A., 2008. Projekt budowlano – wykonawczy zamienny odbudowy (odtworzenia) systemu umocnień brzegu morskiego w Kołobrzegu, KM 330,4 - 333,4. 18 p. (in polish). Borodziuk, A.; Meller-Kubica, A., and Duszny, A., 2012. Ochrona brzegów morskich w Urzędzie Morskim w Słupsku. Presentation of Maritime Office in Słupsk (in Polish) http://www.mos.gov.pl/g2/big/2009_12/4d2f1ce278650915ad 8d6ae7a70d10ac.pdf. CANLAND, 1995. Waveblock. 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