you laugh - Ottawa Knitting Guild

Transcription

you laugh - Ottawa Knitting Guild
The Newsletter of the Ottawa Knitting Guild
October 2013
Tangled Skein
The
How to knit
mittens
Make your knitting better
with research
WILL MAKE
YOU LAUGH
Karen Kauth
vENDOR’S NIGHT preview
1
October 21
8:00
PM
Vendors Night
7:00 pm
Stitch doctor
207 WOODROFFE AVENUE
WOODROFFE UNITED CHURCH
Happy Thanksgiving! We can’t wait to see you all at
Vendor’s Night on Monday. It is going to be wonderful. Be
sure to bring a friend and pass along the loveliness that
is our Guild. Read on for more info on Vendor’s Night,
using research to enhance your knitting, and how to make
mittens. (So many good things this month!)
In This Issue
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3
4
4
4
5
5
6
7
7
8
Knitting with Kathy
Upcoming Meetings
Stitch Doctor
Knit and Learn Group
October Workshop
Vendor’s Night Is A Must See!
Advertising Rates
Knitting in Literature
In Memory of Karen Krzyzewski
Charity Knitting
Ottawa Knitting Guild Charity Knitting Report 2012-2013
9
Fabric Flea Market Ottawa 2013
9
Rose Haven Goes to Ecuador
10 Fibrefest 2013
11 The Practicing Knitter: Research
11Contributions
12 Experience Is What You Get When You Don’t Read
14 Deciphering Mittens
18 Show & Tell: September 2013
33 The End of the Skein
35 Ottawa Knitting Guild Workshops with Deb Gemmell Registration Information
36 Ottawa Knitting Guild Workshops with Deb Gemmell Registration Form
See you soon,
Amanda Schwabe, Newsletter Coordinator
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The copyright for each article in The Tangled Skein belongs to its respective author. Do not reprint or redistribute anywhere else
without the author’s express permission.
guild news
Knitting with Kathy
By Kathy McEwen, President
I am currently sitting in my comfy chair by the fire
at my cottage on a dreary rainy day, knitting a tail
for a dragon (yes, a dragon, but more on that later),
listening to the Vinyl Cafe on CBC radio and trying
to come up with a theme for this month’s column.
I have been thinking about what I like to knit and
who I knit for. During a lot of the year, I tend to
knit for myself, but I really enjoy knitting for others,
especially things that they request. The only real
exception to this is socks. I still knit six to ten
pairs of socks a year, but I don’t really enjoy them
anymore.
The reason for this is that the first year that I
got seriously back into knitting, I knit twenty-two
pairs of socks. All of my family received a pair for
Christmas that year, and myself and my youngest
daughter got many pairs. My mother and sister now
expect socks regularly for birthdays and Christmas.
Upcoming Meetings
October 21, 8pm
Vendors’ Night
Library closed
November 18
Megan Goodacre, author and designer
December 16
Laurie Chochinov, Master Knitting
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I got tired of socks after that year, but I still make
them because my family keeps requesting them,
and I love wearing hand-knit socks.
Over the summer, as requested by my daughter, I
knit three stuffed animals -- an elephant, a giraffe,
and a monkey -- for a baby shower gift, and I really
enjoyed making them. After those, a niece (age 24)
requested a giraffe (I brought it to the September
Guild meeting) which she loves, and she told me
her sister (age 26) was jealous and could I make her
a dragon?... Which is why I am currently knitting a
cute little dragon.
The next stuffed animal is a moose for my youngest
January 20
Sally Melville, Knit to Flatter and Fit
February 10
March 17
April 14
Nancy Bush
May 12
Knitting Challenge Winners / Annual Meeting
June 16
Yarn Swap
niece, who is ten. I would also like to knit a penguin
for myself and a koala for my daughter who is in
Australia, but these will have to wait.
I am now looking ahead to Christmas and determining
what I need to knit for the holidays: my mother
requested a shawl, which I have finished; and my
brother-in-law needed a Christmas stocking, which
I have also finished. Next on my list are socks for
my sister (my mother’s are already done), mittens
for my sister and my niece, a hat and mitts for
my oldest daughter, and something for my father
and father-in-law, which I haven’t figured out yet.
Hopefully, I can get these organized and won’t be
finishing a scarf for my father on Christmas Eve like
last year.
I hope I will see everyone at the Vendors’ Night
event!
Kathy
Stitch Doctor
By Elizabeth Payne
Bring some waste yarn and needles, or bring your
knitting and pattern, and come to the Stitch Doctor
from 7 pm until 7:30 pm (before the Guild meeting)
in the Friendship Room, off the main corridor near
the back of the church. If you are having problems
and/or you are interested in some new, improved
ways of doing things, or you have suggestions for
other knitters, come and meet informally to enrich
your knitting experiences and gain new confidence
to tackle new projects.
stitches.
Due to the regular Guild meeting starting late,
the additional time available for this Stitch Doctor
session will allow for a more involved introduction
to this technique. Bring some waste yarn and
double- pointed needles to practice.
Ideas/problems for discussion are welcome for
future Stitch Doctor sessions.
By Laurie Chochinov
The Ottawa Knitting Guild is offering a one-day
workshop with Deb Gemmell on October 28th.
A specialist in no-sew knitting, Deb is co-author
of many pattern books, most recently Need an
Accessory and Need a Plus Size Cardigan. The
“Need a ...” books provide pattern variations on
a theme, adapting to different yarn types and
gauges. Deb and her sister Lynda run Cabin Fever,
a full-service knitting business based in Woodville,
Ontario, selling yarn and patterns and organizing
knitting events. Cabin Fever is also the source for
Shelridge Farm yarns.
Deb will be leading two half-day workshops:
Monday, October 28, 9:00 – 12:00
V-Neck Top Down: 3 hours
Beginner/Intermediate Level knitter
Put a V-Neck on a top-down teddy-bear-sized raglan cardigan. After knitting this small sweater, you
will know all the techniques necessary to knit a
larger version. You will learn how to use short rows
to change the neckline of any square-necked topdown pattern into a V or scoop neck. Imagine the
possibilities. Based on the Baby V and Button Up
Your Top Down books by Cabin Fever.
Supplies: DK weight yarn, 4.0 mm circular needle
(60cm long), 4.0 mm double-pointed needles,
markers, sewing-up needle.
Monday, October 28, 1:00 – 4:00
The Amazing I-Cord: 3 hours
Beginner/ Intermediate Level Knitter
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By Elizabeth Payne
Come join us to knit together on the second
Thursday of each month at the Nepean Museum
on Rowley Street off Meadowlands, a few blocks
west of Merivale Road, from 10 am to noon. The
meetings for this year will be held on October 10,
November 14, and December 12.
This group provides Guild members, no matter their
level of knitting experience, with an opportunity to
informally knit together; exchange ideas, knitting
experiences, and friendship; and has the added
advantage of obtaining information and help from
experienced and Master Knitters.
October ~ The topic for this month is Entrelac
Knitting. This technique involves knitting composed
of slanted rectangles and requires only simple
maneuvers including knit, purl, and picking up
October Workshop
Knit and Learn Group
I-cord can be added to many of your knitted
projects. It makes a tiny tube which is incredibly
versatile. You can work an I-cord cast on and cast
off. You can add it to your garter-stitch garments
for a lovely finished edge, work buttonhole loops,
finish a hat with a tail on the top like a French beret,
or make ties on a hat with flaps. We’ll discover
many more uses as we work in class.
Supplies: 50g of worsted weight yarn, 4.5 mm
straight needles and a 4.5 mm set of doublepointed needles.
Cost: $35 for a 3-hour session (includes morning
or afternoon refreshments)
$60 for the full day (includes refreshments and
sandwich lunch)
Location: 30 Norice Street, Nepean.
To reserve your spot, please complete the
registration form and send it, with your payment,
to Kathy McEwen, 43 Starwood Road, Nepean, ON,
K2G 1Y9.
Due to the size of the venue, registration will
be restricted to 12 knitters per session. Priority
will be given to those who register for a full day.
Registration must be received by October 22nd.
Vendor’s Night Is A Must
See!
matching striped socks can be assured their socks
will match when knitting with Lillian’s yarn.
By Valerie McLaughlin
Vendors Night is quickly approaching, and it
is shaping up to be an exciting night, filled with
yarn, fibre, spindles, buttons, and other knitting
accessories!
Instead of regular Guild programming, vendors
will take over this month’s meeting on October 21.
They will be selling yarn, fibre and other notions. It
is strongly suggested buyers bring cash as most of
these vendors won’t have the capacity to accept
debit or credit. Vendors Night will be starting at 8
p.m.
Confirmed vendors include:
Please Stand By Yarns. Lillian Trudeau will be
selling semi-solid yarn as well as self-striping yarn
based on beloved television shows. Knitters wanting
Cosmos Yarns. Angela McInnis has her own line of
yarn, made out of fibre farmed by Canadian wool
producers. Her yarn is produced locally at a mill
in Osgoode. As well as hand-dying yarn, she also
hand-dyes roving.
Riverside Studios. Kathryn Dysdale will be
bringing her hand-dyed yarn and possibly some of
her yummy hand-dyed fibre.
Yvieknits Yarns. Yvonne will be displaying her
hand-dyed beauties. For all you shawl knitters out
there, this is a good opportunity to pick up some
sock- or lace-weight yarn for any future projects
you have planned.
Turtlepurl Yarns and Notions returns. Genevieve,
known for her brightly dyed yarn with unique
names, will be coming with various goodies. Be
sure to stop at her table because you never know
Advertising Rates
Full Year
Single Issue
Size
Member
Business
card
Quarter
Page
Half Page
Full Page
$60.00
Non-Member
$80.00
$120.00
$160.00
$240.00
$400.00
$320.00
$480.00
5
Size
Member
Business
Card
Quarter
Page
Half Page
Full Page
$7.50
Non-Member
$10.00
$15.00
$20.00
$30.00
$50.00
$40.00
$60.00
what you’ll see!
Judy Kavanagh, who spins and knits, will likely
be bringing some of her handcrafted spindles and
fibre. If you’ve always wanted to learn spindle
spinning, stopping by her booth is a must.
Sheeps Ahoy. If you are a Fair Isle knitter,
stopping by Debbie’s booth should be on the top
of your shopping list. Debbie sells various Jamieson
and Jamieson and Smith Shetland yarns as well as
other sock- and lace-weight yarns.
Evelyn Davis has buttons of all different shapes
and sizes. If you’ve got a garment that needs
buttons, bring it along and see if Evelyn can help
you find the perfect buttons.
Laura Sheppard will have handcrafted buttons
as well as yarn bowls and knitting needle vases
for sale. Laura is both a knitter and a potter. She
has turned her passions into a business. If you are
looking for a special button for a special project,
this may be the table for you.
for sale.
for knitting, crocheting, and weaving and also sells
hand-dyed scarves.
Fine Fibre Finds. Julie takes recycling to a whole
different level as she finds garments made out
of natural fibres, unravels them, and makes yarn
skeins. You will never know what you’ll find when
you stop by Julie’s booth.
Nancy Moynihan has been working on her stock
all summer in anticipation for Vendor’s Night. She’ll Yarn Forward. You never know what the good folks
have patterns she’s designer herself for sale as well at Yarn Forward will bring to Vendor’s Night, so be
as handmade buttons and knitting accessories.
sure to stop by and check out their goodies!
Wool-Tyme will be in the house, bringing along Due to circumstances beyond the Guild’s control,
BuntART will have a table of treasures for sale. some yarny treasures to be squeezed and fondled. the event will operate a bit differently than in past
Anja, a talented knitter, spinner, dyer and crocheter, Be sure to stop by and say hello.
years. The show will start at 8 pm, not at 7:30 pm.
will be bringing lots of goodies with her.
While the Guild recognizes the late start is not ideal,
Megan Goodacre, who runs an online store called we don’t have access to the church’s meeting room
Wool n’ Things. Gisele, who owns this Orleans yarn Tricksy Knitter, will be selling her notebooks and until 7 pm. We need time for vendors to set up. We
store, will be coming with lots of yarny treasures needle gauges. Megan, who is a relatively new guild are politely asking shoppers not to enter the room
from her shop. For those who live in the west end member, is also a talented designer.
until 8 pm. Please note the meeting room’s doors
and aren’t able to get to Orleans, this is the perfect
will be closed to shoppers until the event starts.
opportunity to shop and see what this east-end Jaime Girard has recently begun selling her kettlestore has to offer.
dyed yarn through her business called Violette To deal with the short turnaround time, we need
Yarn Co. She is excited to sell to her fellow Guild volunteers to prepare the room prior to the arrival
Just Knitting. Kelly, who has transitioned from a members.
of vendors and to assist any vendors with their set
brick-and-mortar store to an online business, will be
up. If you can help, please send me an email at
at Vendor’s Night. She’ll surely have some fine yarn Shelana Fiber Arts. Natalie sells hand-dyed yarn [email protected].
Knitting in Literature
Contributed by D. Susak
“Margo, on seeing the (three) owlets, went into
raptures. She had just acquired the art of knitting
and, with lavish generosity, offered to knit anything I
wanted for the owls. I toyed with the idea of having
them all dressed in identical, striped pullovers but
discarded this as impractical and reluctantly refused
the kind suggestion.
“Leslie’s offer of help was more practical. He said
he would shoot a supply of sparrows for me. I asked
whether he could do this every day.”
from The Garden of the Gods, by Gerald Durrell (1978)
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In Memory of Karen
Krzyzewski
I am deeply saddened to find myself writing the
following words. Karen Krzyzewski was a very good
friend, and I lost her in the horrible bus-train crash
on September 18, 2013. We met 17 years ago. I
will miss her tremendously. It is still hard to believe
it really happened.
Karen was a skilled and long-time knitter. Not too
long ago, she knitted a stuffed owl for her greatniece that wowed her family. Some of her family
were inspired by Karen to take up knitting.
For Karen, knitting was a social activity. Karen and
I encouraged and challenged each other to take
on new and more difficult projects. Most recently,
we were taking an on-line lace-knitting workshop
together. We liked to attend the Stitch Doctor
sessions before each Guild meeting, after having
dinner together at Carlingwood, and were always
thrilled to learn something new. Knitting was a
hobby that helped Karen lead a rich life.
- Aurora Richard
Charity Knitting
By Debi Brown
The Ottawa Knitting Guild supports and encourages
its members to donate surplus yarn and/or knit
items for donation. Some of the charities that we
are aware of include:
1. Children’s Hospital of Eastern Ontario:
accepting washable blankets/afghans 36 by 40
inches or larger. (The Children’s Hospital of Eastern
Ontario is an academic paediatric hospital providing
leading-edge treatment, diagnostic, and laboratory
services for children and youth aged 0 to 18 years.)
2. Cornerstone: accepting washable
hats, mitts, socks, and afghans for
women
(Cornerstone
provides emergency shelter
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and supportive housing for homeless women in
Ottawa. )
3. First Place Options: accepting soft, washable
baby blankets, cribsize. (First Place is a nonprofit agency offering compassionate support
and assistance to anyone facing an unplanned
pregnancy. First Place Pregnancy Centre is nonprofit & non-political. Their focus is not on the past,
but on the future.)
4. Ottawa Mission: accepting washable mitts,
hats, scarves, socks, and afghans for men. (The
Ottawa Mission is a non-profit, faith-based ministry,
meeting the needs of the homeless and those at
risk of being homeless in the Ottawa region.)
5. Out of the Cold: accepting washable mitts,
hats, scarves, socks, and afghans for men. (Dropin centre for men.)
6. Ronald MacDonald House: accepting mitts,
hats, scarves and socks for children and teens.
(Ottawa’s Ronald McDonald House is a “HomeAway-From-Home” for families with children
suffering from cancer or other serious illnesses
being treated at the Children’s Hospital of Eastern
Ontario.)
7. The Snowsuit Fund: accepting mitts, hats, and
socks for children and teens. (The Snowsuit Fund is
an Ottawa-based charity that raises funds for the
purchase and distribution of snowsuits to needy
children, 15 years and under, in our community.)
8. Warm Hands Network: gathering and
shipping hats, socks, mittens, gaiters, sweaters,
and blankets. (Innu children of Northern Labrador.
Items will be distributed through a collective of
Innu women in the communities themselves. They
especially need stuff for kids aged 5 to 15, but they
would also like baby blankets and items for the
younger set.
Thank you for the following donations received in
June and September:
9. The Well Drop-In Centre: accepting washable
mitts, hats, and scarves for children and women.
(The Well is a Day Program for Women and Women
with Children and provides a safe, supportive
environment and assists with access to community
resources.)
Sandra Smith – 15 kitten blankets for the Humane
Society
10. Ottawa Humane Society: accepting “cat
blankets.” Use up your stash and scraps; blankets
should be the size of a place mat and of washable
materials.
Jeannie Turcotte – 3 pairs of mitts, 3 scarves, 3 hats,
6 pairs of socks for The Well
We accept donated yarn and you are welcome to
pick some out and turn it into an article for one of
the above charities.
Christine Anderson – 1 hat for the Snowsuit Fund
Linda Williams – 4 hats for the Snowsuit Fund
Julia Yeung – 1 baby sweater, 4 baby hats for First
Place Options, 1 adult hat for The Well
If you have any questions or donations, please do
not hesitate to contact me.
Ottawa Knitting Guild
Charity Knitting Report
2012-2013
* First Place Pregnancy – 9 baby blankets, 7 baby
hats, 1 scarf, 1 hoodie;
The number of reported donations to charities
through the Ottawa Knitting Guild were down this
year, but that does not diminish the efforts of those
who donated finished goods or yarn from their
stash, or the appreciation of the individuals who
received projects.
In 2012-2013 a total of 141 items were donated
and distributed as follows:
* CHEO – 4 blankets;
* The Well Drop-in Centre – 10 adult scarves, 3
adult hats, 1 child hat, 1 shrug, 6 pairs of children’s
socks, 1 pair of ladies socks;
* Snowsuit Fund – 3 pairs mitts, 48 hats, 5 scarves,
3 cowls;
* Civic Hospital Neonatal Unit – 5 preemie hats, 2
sets of preemie hats, mitts, and booties;
* Out of the Cold – 1 men’s sweater;
* Warm Hands Network – 2 sweaters, 1 vest, 12
pairs of socks;
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Contact:
Debi Brown
Charity Donations Coordinator
[email protected]
Linda Vervacke – 11 hats, 10 toques, 1 pair of mitts,
2 scarves for the Snowsuit Fund
If you know of a charity that would accept donated
knitted goods, please let the coordinator know.
By Debi Brown
If you are interested in becoming the Coordinator,
delivering knitted goods, or storing “the stash,”
please DO NOT hesitate to come forward. I have
been the coordinator for five years and am willing
to hand the title and job over to anyone who is
interested in taking over.
* Ottawa Humane Society – 15 kitty blankets.
That totals
15 kitty blankets,
1 vest,
2 sweaters,
3 cowls,
5 pairs of mitts,
19 pairs of socks,
1 shrug,
16 scarves,
66 hats, and
13 blankets.
These items were contributed by Christine Anderson,
Mary Arscott, Kathy Carty, Peigi Dumouchel, Nicole
Hadskis, Peggy Holton, Suzanne Lesage, Kathy
McEwen, Louise Moore, Nancy Onlock, Marion
Ross, Gina Smart, Sandra Smith, Diane Susak,
Ann Thacker, Jeannie Turcotte, Joan Turnball, Linda
Vervacke, Linda Williams, Nancy Wright and an
anonymous individual(s).
community news
Fabric Flea Market Ottawa
2013
The annual Fabric Flea Market is on Saturday,
October 19 at the Glebe Community Centre (175
3rd Avenue at Lyon), from 10am to 2pm. Admission
$2.00. Support Cambridge Street Public School
and find bargains galore: fabric, yarn, patterns,
buttons, and other needlework supplies. Donations
of saleable materials are welcome at the school
(250 Cambridge Street) between 9am and 1pm
before October 18. For more information contact
[email protected].
Rose Haven Goes to
Ecuador
By Linda Swaine
I have bought an adobe house on 3.4 acres in a
rural area north of Latacunga in the Cotopaxi Region
south of Quito. I will be in the Andes at about 8,500
feet elevation, with a temperature range of 10 - 20
C and a low of -2 C. So, no more serious winter -even Canna Lilies and Hibiscus survive throughout
the year.
an Ecuadorian adobe house
garden (raised beds for us older folks), another for
a dye garden (I always wanted to experiment) and
then a medicinal garden -- my very own aloe and
other goodies. I also hope to add a third bedroom
so I can offer a little B & B experience; some of you
may know that I ran one for five years on my last
farm. And I’ve always wanted to grow lavender, so
that’s another idea.
And then, perhaps something in the textile arena. I
have watched the local women drop spindling while
moving their cattle! I know alpacas are raised in
the hills, and a little llama lives down the lane, along
with some sheep. And who knows what more? I am
very much hoping to create a place that works with
the community and is welcoming to travelling fibre
friends.
My hopes are to create a little studio for myself and
then to get back into serious gardening. A vegetable
Lesley’s hopes are to keep the general theme of the
shop and, of course, to listen to her customers in
terms of needs, new products, and services.
If you are interested in what I am doing, wish to
be kept informed, or maybe even come to Ecuador,
please follow me on my current website: www.
rosehavenfarm.net. In the next few weeks, it will
morph into “Rose Haven and Linda go to Ecuador,”
and I hope it will become a fun and enjoyable
experience for those who tag along.
and a graduate of Sheridan College. For the last
several years, she has run her own little retail shop
Keep on knitting, and all the best for the future!
called Galloping Goat and has marketed her knitting
and nuno felt wear through Arts on Main in Picton.
She will be keeping Rose Haven in Picton but with
a few changes. The new name is Rose Haven Yarn
Meanwhile, Lesley, the upcoming owner,
Shop and the new website is www.rosehavenyarn.
is a good twenty years younger than me,
com. She already has this site up and running as a
lively, and very artsy. She is
website / blog and the beginnings of an online shop.
a knitter, felter, and spinner,
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By now, many of you may know that I have arranged
to sell Rose Haven Farm Store to Lesley Snyder of
Prince Edward County, with the transfer to occur on
November 17. I am now 67 and have worked for fifty
years, and rarely in the last twenty years have I had
time to explore textile arts like all my customers do.
Yes, I have had some great travels, but I am now
looking forward to a new adventure. On December
11, I leave for my new home in Ecuador.
articles
Fibrefest 2013
By Amanda Schwabe
I always love Fibrefest. My friend Annie and I have
been attending religiously every fall for the last
four years or so. Sometimes, we have babies in
tow, and sometimes, like this year, we experience
the glorious freedom of a Girls’ Day Out.
Giddy and much more carefree than usual, we
stopped first for a pumpkin spice latte, then headed
to the Mississippi Valley Textile Museum in Almonte.
We were surprised to find that things had changed
this year! The Knitting Guild booth wasn’t there,
and neither were any vendors. Instead, we found a
musty-smelling exhibit.
Annie wanted to look at it, so I reluctantly agreed.
It was her day out, too, after all. As I followed
her through the exhibit of the history of wool and
milling in Almonte, the smell gradually receded,
and my interest grew.
There were all sorts of interesting old machines:
carders full of prickly rolls that we could touch,
racks of spikes that organized cones of yarn, looms,
fullers, and cabinets with tiny drawers. It was
an antique lover’s heaven. There were a couple
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gigantic machines that I could very happily picture
in a studio of my very own.
Next, we wandered downstairs to look at a collection
of one woman’s handicrafts that was on display.
She used to sell her hand-embroidered items, I
believe. They were amazing. We oohed and ahhed
over her delicate stitchwork, marvelling at how
even and perfect everything looked. A machine
could not have done better.
Then, we were ready to go find the vendors.
Again, we were surprised by a change, this time in
venue. Instead of directing us to the agricultural
hall, the map sent us to a curling rink/arena. It
was wonderful! In previous years, the vendors had
been split between two different locations; this
year, they were all together in one huge location.
This meant no more anxiety about spending too
much money at the first place, only to discover
that the second place had better things for sale.
We started off by stopping at the OKG table, which
was situated right near the entrance with some
other guild tables. It sounded like they were
having lots of fun, knitting and visiting with other
attendees and occasionally taking a break to go
look at the other booths.
Many of the local yarn shops were there, plus a
lot of local wool producers. I had a chance to chat
with the woman at Victory Farm Alpaca for a little
while, and it was exciting to hear about their new
dyed yarn lines. I, of course, petted all the items
on the table while we talked. I also had great chats
with the women from Wabi Sabi, Turtlepurl, and
Riverside Studios.
Besides yarn, there were booths about quilting,
felting, weaving, bobbin lacemaking, and rug
making. The Button Club was also there, and there
were tables and tables of tiny, shiny treasures.
If I’m not careful, button collecting could easily
become another obsession for me.
Every year, I’m amazed by the skill and variety
exhibited at Fibrefest. I wish I’d had more time to
linger and talk with the vendors this year, since it’s
the people I talk to and the conversations we have
that make every visit so wonderful. But before we
knew it, it was time to leave. I had a baby shower
to attend and a bit of last-minute knitting to do on
the drive there.
On our way out of Almonte, we stopped at the local,
amazing coffee shop whose name I always forget,
so we ended our trip perfectly: a day of knitting
encompassed by a happy haze of caffeine.
The Practicing Knitter:
Research
By Laurie Chochinov
The first sweater I ever made began with the
following sentence:
With smaller needles cast on 89 sts.
What a range of questions this brief sentence
raises. Why start with smaller needles? What
kind of needles should I use? How do I cast on?
What does “sts” mean? More to the point, how
do we knitters learn to interpret this sentence, or
any other instructions we are using? The answer
is research.
It’s strange to think that knitters will spend time
researching when they could be knitting. But,
the number of books specialising in techniques,
stitch patterns and basic knitting skills published
over the past decade or more proves that there
is an interest in knitting research. Knitting is no
longer primarily passed down from generation
to generation through hands-on teaching and an
oral tradition. Knitters can now go to books and
magazines for information on techniques, stitch
patterns, and skills.
Why do we take the time to research? We do it
to improve our knitting. For example, many of
us began our knitting career learning one cast on
and one bind off from another knitter. However,
some knitters don’t have a source for hands-on
instruction. Others have realized that cast ons and
bind offs have regional variations. Others have
determined that there are ways to cast on or bind
off that work better for different kinds of fabric or
garments. So, now we have reference books that
give us a choice. What difference a picot cast
on can make to a shawl or scarf compared to a
long-tail cast on. Changing a bind off from stiff to
stretchy can make all the difference in how a toe-up
sock gets over your foot. A little bit of time spent
researching how to start or end your knitting can
have a tremendous impact on the finished product.
So, once you get started on a project, there’s no
need for further research, right? Not necessarily.
Another area where research helps is with the
embellishments you add to your knitting. The
simplest example is changing a stitch pattern. With
the proliferation of stitch-pattern dictionaries, it’s
Contributions
Would you like to write for The Tangled Skein? We
would love to hear from you! It’s the members’
contributions that make this newsletter so
wonderful and diverse. Send us anything about
knitting -- a pattern, an article, a poem, and
website review, a pattern or book review, a photo
that you took, a tale of a knitting adventure.
Whatever you can think of, we’d love to read it!
Send your contributions to Amanda, the editor,
at [email protected].
11
no longer necessary to work everything in garter or
stockinette. One of the classic stitch dictionaries is
Barbara G. Walker’s A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.
Originally published in 1968, this is a go-to book for
those who want to add texture and interest to their
work . As Barbara says, it helps knitters “raise what
is otherwise a mere craft to the height of a real
art.” “Anyone who knows just four basic knitting
operations: how to knit, how to purl, how to make
a yarn-over and how to use a cable-needle” has
the ability to enhance and personalize any knitted
item.
Then, there is the whole range of knitting
techniques that research can teach. Who hasn’t
been impressed when they saw the difference
between a “knit 2 together” and a “slip slip knit”
decrease? Knowing that the type of decrease used
at a neckline or armhole can improve the look of
a sweater is very important. You can also learn
how to pick up stitches for a neck band so that it
doesn’t buckle or pucker. Of course, there’s always
the opportunity to pick the best buttonhole for a
cardigan, just by looking up the variations.
Now, what about the basics? What research is
necessary just to get started? Let’s begin with
abbreviations used in a pattern. As I noted when I
began this article, the instructions for my sweater
said to cast on 89 sts. Nowhere in the pattern does
it tell me what “sts” means. Nor does it even explain
the P or the K used throughout the instructions. The
band of the sweater is seed stitch, but there’s no
information on what seed stitch is. If it hadn’t been
for my mother, I’d have been lost. These days, I’d be
able to do some research and figure everything out
before I started. Most publications have glossaries
defining the standard abbreviations used in all the
patterns. Even if you can’t find the abbreviation in
the pattern you are reading, a little research can
find it somewhere else.
should always follow the same advice you get on a
bottle of rug cleaner: test it in a small area where
damage won’t be visible. Our testing area is the
swatch. If you want to see how a stitch pattern looks,
work a 6”x6” swatch to see. By the time you are
done, you will know if it is an easy pattern to follow
or if the instructions are too complicated. Would it
be easier to follow if you charted the stitches? You’ll
be able to see how the stitch pattern would look in
a top-down garment, just by turning it upside down.
You’ll also know if the yarn you’ve chosen will work
with the pattern.
As you swatch, you can practice the other items you
are researching. You can try different cast-on/bindoff techniques, pick up your stitches, test a button
hole or two, and even practice seaming. All of this
practice will improve the look of your knitted item
when you begin in earnest.
Finally, there’s the concept of learning to knit from a
book. Many books and magazines now include the
basic knitting techniques in the introduction/forward
to the book. Illustrations and written instructions
help the novice learn how to cast on, knit, purl, and
so on. Authors do not assume that the knitter has As I’ve mentioned, there are many, many reference
come with a basic skill set.
books on the market. The Ottawa Knitting Guild’s
library has a number that can be borrowed by
Now that you understand the value of research for members. The books I currently use the most from
your knitting, how do you put it into practice? Well, my personal library are:
the first thing to do is to try something out. Knitters
Experience Is What You
Get When You Don’t Read
By Karen Kauth
Not long ago, I posted on Facebook how I should
have heeded the little voice that told me I should
stop my knitting because I messed it up. The
following month, I fell in love with a pattern.
Different pattern, same voice, different advice: still
a mediocre outcome.
Here’s the story:
Part 1
Picture this: Sicily, 1922… Ok, not that
far back. The months are
12
June and July. I decide to knit a shawl. The pattern
is well written and things are progressing nicely.
Close to the end of this endeavour, I launch into the
final series of lace pattern repeats. While watching
some of my favorite detective stories, I discover
that something’s not quite right. One would think
that since I enjoy mysteries, I could heed a clue
when it presents itself. Alas, no. Not this time. I
proceed to knit on, believing that I can remedy the
situation on the next row.
In theory, that might have worked, but it did not
provide the desired outcome. About now is when I
should have said, STOP! Document where you are
within the pattern, put the knitting down, and walk
away. Instead, I knit a few more rows, increasing 4
stitches every other row a few more times before
I realized that the little voice is shrieking that I’ve
Techniques:
Sally Melville. The Knitting Experience Books 1, 2 &
3. XRX Books.
Sally Melville. Knitting Pattern Essentials. Potter
Craft.
Cap Sease. Cast On, Bind Off. Martingale.
Charlene Schurch & Beth Parrott. The Sock Knitter’s
Handbook. Martingale.
Vogue Knitting. The Ultimate Knitting Book. Sixth &
Spring Books.
Stitch Patterns:
400 Knitting Stitches. New York, NY: Potter Craft.
Vogue Knitting. Stitchionaries 1,2,3 & 5. Sixth &
Spring Books.
Walker, Barbara. A Treasury of Knitting Patterns
(Volumes 1-4). Schoolhouse Press.
really buggered things up and should stop now
because there is no way that you will ever let
that thing see the light of day if it represents your
knitting capabilities! This little voice, I think, is the
same one that, when allowed to be externalized, is
the one that uses profanity and insults. So, I shut it
up by putting the knitting away for a while.
Part 2
August is here, and I choose a nice sunny day to
finish up some unfinished business. I grab the shawl
and pluck clods of cat fur from it before taking a
good look at what damage I’ve inflicted on the poor
thing. Well, a few sections look like they should,
and parts within that... not so much. I decide to
take it back a few rows. Now, lace is a fickle thing.
One must be careful when unknitting yarnovers
and ssks and k2togs, etc., so that stitches don’t
get lost. Ripping back is not an option here. I am
not a fast knitter, and this tinking is even slower.
An entire episode of Inspector George Gently has
played while I mend my not-so-handiwork. Eight
rows, undone, stitch by stitch. I am now at a place
where I can continue to knit.
Part 3
Since I am comfortable with where I am with the
shawl, I give it a rest and become distracted with
the new Fall editions of online pattern magazines.
Of course, wouldn’t you know it? There is a pattern
that I must start now -- because the shawl is good
to go to finish -- and I can wear this new pattern for
Fall if I start right away, and it’s not lace! So, I pay
and download the pattern.
Part of the appeal of this pattern is its different
construction. So, I begin the first section. I find a
few spots that don’t look right. I check the pattern,
check the key chart, and redo that troublesome
row again. It still looks off. I continue to knit. Now,
the funny thing is, the little voice did not scream,
13
“Are you a stupid bunny or what? Did you not learn
from that pile of green lace to stop?” Instead, the
little voice was wondering at its oddity, too.
I can fix this one, though. I check on Ravelry and
there is an errata for the pattern -- already. Well,
there was that problem fixed. I knit a whole new
section. Great. Now section 2 is the mirror image
of the first section. This time with errata, things are
proceeding better until, until… I find a symbol that
is not on the key chart! What? By now, another
voice is wondering if I should be close to knitting
needles right now. Why is this happening? Is it
possible that there is a third mistake in the pattern?
What will the rest of it be like? Do I want to continue
knitting this, waiting for more surprises? I contact
the magazine and the designer and yes, there is a
third mistake. I am provided a link to the new and
improved version and given an apology from both.
There is still an error on there, but I’m not being
paid to edit the bloody thing, so I let it go. Weeks
pass, and I am provided with yet another download
that includes the revisions, corrections, etc. The
pattern is now on hold due to my frustration with
how it is turning out.
So what happened here? Did I catch on to the
mistakes in the new pattern because I learned
from my previous fiasco? Was I so distracted while
knitting the lace that I should have stopped more
frequently to examine my work? I did learn that
documenting a pattern is a good practice. I knew
where I had left off within my work and could easily
decipher what was happening, even though I had
left it for weeks.
My experience has left me with a better sense
of how I can expect a pattern to reveal itself,
anticipating what the knitted outcome should be.
Shortcuts are wonderful when used at the right
time. If something I’ve knit is so flawed that it
makes me uncomfortable, it needs to be resolved
or not knit at all.
I leave you with this advice, from one knitter to
another: trust your inner voice, the knitting inner
voice. Let it speak to you on a friendly basis, and
loud enough that it can drown out any other voices
that may not agree with your knitting self.
Note:
The reason we use the hand
circumference to determine the cast-on
number instead of the wrist circumference is
that generally, although wrists are smaller,
they’re also worked in ribbing. Since the
ribbing pulls the knitted fabric tighter, the
smaller size of the wrist is made via the
ribbing.
Decrease at
fingertips
Thumb
Hand
hand circumference
Thumb
gusset
Cuff
Deciphering Mittens
By Amanda Schwabe
In honour of this year’s Knitting Challenge, we’re
going to start a series of articles explaining the basic
constructions of mittens, gloves, arm warmers/
gauntlets, and hats.
As a knitter, having a foundational knowledge about
their construction will help you to understand,
correct, modify, or design your own projects.
There’s nothing as frustrating as being unable to
find “just the right pattern.” It’s much more fun,
then, to be able to make just the right pattern on
your own.
Let’s start with mittens. They have five
basic segments: cuff, thumb gusset,
hand, decrease at fingertips, and thumb.
14
Cuff:
The cuff is generally worked first. It makes a great
working gauge swatch for your mitten, as well,
since you can try it on as you go and make sure
that it fits the way you want it to.
The easiest way to determine the number of
stitches you will cast on is to measure your hand
circumference, then multiply that by your stitchesper-inch gauge. For instance, if your hand measures
7” around, and your gauge is 4.5 sts per inch (a
common worsted-weight gauge), you will cast on 7
x 4.5 = 31.5. Since we can’t cast on half a stitch,
and it’s much easier to work with even numbers,
we’ll round up to 32 sts to cast on.
Now you have the choice of working either flat or
in the round. When working in the round, I prefer
using two circular needles or the Magic Loop
method, since then the stitches can be divided in
half: one half for the back of hand, and one half for
the palm stitches. If you prefer using dpn’s, you
can divide the stitches onto four needles, using two
needles for the back-of-hand stitches and two for
the palm stitches.
Other ways to make the wrist smaller include
casting on less stitches, then increasing at the
hand; working an even tighter stitch around
the wrist, like cables; or using a smallersize needle when working the wrist stitches.
These are usually unnecessary, though, and
add needless complication to most simple
designs.
Decide what type of cuff you’d like your mitten
to have. There are two basic options: ribbed or
straight. A ribbed cuff will pull in and fit snugly
around the wrist; it’s good for wearing under jackets
and keeping snow out of mittens. A straight cuff
is made by working stockinette instead of ribbing;
it’s better for shorter cuffs and bulkier yarns, or for
mittens that need to be done quickly.
A ribbed cuff presents a couple more options: 1x1
ribbing will pull the cuff in a little, but 2x2 ribbing
will make the cuff even more snug. You can work
the knit stitches as twisted stitches (knitting them
through the back loop) for some variety, or you can
even cable them in the 2x2 ribbing, which will pull
the cuff in even more.
To determine which ribbing to use, sometimes the
answer is basic math. If your number of stitches
is divisible by four, then 2x2 ribbing will work. If
it is divisible by two only, then 1x1 ribbing will fit.
A little extra planning and fiddling with the caston number will give you more control over cuff
options. You might be surprised by how easy it can
be to go up or down by a stitch or two and still get
a good fit.
Knitting In the Round
Side of Hand
Back of Hand
Knitting Flat
Side of Hand
Thumb Gusset
start (right-hand
mitten)
Thumb Gusset
start (left-hand
mitten)
Thumb Gusset
start (if this were
a right-hand
mitten, the Palm
and BOH would
be reversed)
Inside of Hand
(Halfway mark)
Thumb Gusset
start (left-hand
mitten)
Palm
Outside of Hand
(Seam)
If you’ve knit more than an inch in your cuff, and the
size seems too tight or too loose, fix it. I once knit
an entire mitten that was too tight because I didn’t
want to rip back two inches and start again. I kept
stretching it and telling myself, “It will work.” Before
you rip it out, though, figure out how much bigger or
smaller it needs to be, then use the knitting swatch
you’ve just made (the failed cuff) to determine how
many more or less stitches you need to cast on.
Work your chosen cuff to your desired length. Two
to three inches is average. Now, we’ll move on to
the hand and thumb gusset.
Switch to stockinette (or whatever stitch pattern
you’re using for the hand) and work even for about
1/4” (in worsted weight, this is only about 2 rounds
or rows). Now, it’s time to begin the thumb gusset.
We’re only going to cover a basic triangle-shaped
gusset in this article. There are other types, but this
one is very easy and so mathematically
lovely.
15
Back of Hand
increased into the hand to accommodate the extra
width of the base of the thumb. The wonderful thing
about it is that all these stitches we’re adding will
be used in the thumb itself. The hand is amazingly
proportionate.
You can, if you like, place the thumb gusset exactly
between the palm and back of hand. This works
just fine if you’re knitting a stockinette hand in the
round. But, any time that you’re going to have a
seam (like when working flat) or a motif on the back
of hand that needs to be centred when the mitten is
worn, you’ll need to offset the thumb gusset more
towards the palm. That way, when the mittens are
on actual hands, and the natural position of the
thumb pulls your mittens off centre, you won’t be
frustrated by a seam that’s on the back of your hand
or a picture that is suddenly in the wrong position.
Offsetting the thumb gusset is simple. It should begin
about 1/2” towards the palm. Mathematically, this
means that you’ll have half your stitches used for
your back of hand (BOH), and half for your palm. If
you’re knitting in the round and you’ve divided your
Basically, a thumb gusset stitches in two halves, the places where your palm
is just a little extra space and BOH stitches meet will be between needles,
Palm
Outside of Hand
(Seam)
and they are the side-of-hand spots. Designate one
end as your outside of hand, and one end as the
inside of hand (near the thumb). If you’re knitting
flat, the inside of hand will be at the halfway mark in
your piece; the seam will be sewn down the outside
of hand.
Now, at the inside-of-hand spot, decide which hand
you’re working on (ie, which half is for the palm),
and place a marker about 1/2” away from the inside
of hand on the palm side. This is where you’ll begin
increasing for the thumb gusset. (See diagrams,
above.)
The thumb gusset is basically a triangle of increases
worked gradually into the fabric. Begin by making
one stitch in the designated thumb-gusset start
area. (If you’re working flat, all the increases will
be worked on right-side rows.)
Every other row, increase one stitch on either side of
the stitch(es) you made. You can use stitch markers
to guide you here if you’re not used to reading your
knitting yet. You’ll basically place the markers on
either side of the first stitch you increased, and those
markers will bracket outside all your subsequent
Note: To make a left-leaning increase (M1L),
insert the tip of your left needle under the running
stitch (the horizontal bar of yarn that connects
the stitches on either needle) from front to back.
Knit it through the back loop (this keeps your
increase from making a hole). (It can be tricky
to pick up the back of the stitch because it will
be tight. Try grabbing it from the front first, then
sliding your right needle tip up and over the left
needle until it’s in the back loop.)
To make a right-leaning increase (M1R), insert
the tip of your left needle under the running stitch
from back to front. Knit it through the front loop.
(This will also be tight, since the front loop will
be made from the left leg of the stitch instead of
the right. Try bringing your two needles closer
together so the stitch has no tension in it, then
gently wiggle your right needle tip through, as
you would for a knit stitch. Use a fingertip to
keep the stitch from falling off the needle when
you do this.
increases. (See chart on the following page for a
visual.)
I like to mirror my pairs of increases (remember, after
that first increase, we’ll be working one increase on
each side of the triangle we’re building). I have
them lean in towards the gusset. Again, see the
chart for a visual.
Keep increasing the size of the gusset in this manner
until the number of stitches increased equals just
less than half of the mitten stitches. For example,
if your mitten has 32 sts, half would be 16. Our
gusset has an odd number of stitches, so we would
stop increasing once we reach 15 sts in the gusset.
If your mitten had 30 sts, half would be 15, but
we’d stop the gusset at 13 sts.
Once your gusset is big enough, finish your row or
round. The next time you come back
to your gusset, put all 15 (or whatever)
stitches on a piece of waste
yarn and keep knitting the
hand. (Alternatively, you
16
If you’re having trouble viewing the chart online,
it will look just fine printed out.
could put all the hand sts on a piece of waste yarn
and work the thumb first.)
The hand is worked straight until it’s an inch or so
away from the tip of your middle finger. The easiest
way to decrease the hand is to work it like the top
of a hat. Divide your stitches into 6 equal sections.
If you can’t get an even number no matter how
you divide it, just leave the extra stitch or two at
the end of the last section. Let’s use our 32-stitch
mitten as an example:
32 divided by 6 is 5 plus 2 extra stitches. So, we’ll
have six sections of 5 stitches each, plus 2. Each
section needs to have knit stitches plus a k2tog at
its end. Because the section is five stitches long,
we’ll have to knit 3, then knit 2 together. We’ll do
that for each of the six sections until we get to our
last two stitches, then we’ll just k2tog.
We’ll work a round plain. (If you’re knitting flat, the
decreases will be on the right side, and the plain
rows will be purled.) Then, we’ll work our next
decrease round or row. Since we decreased one
stitch from each section, we now have only four
stitches per section. So we’ll work k2, k2tog six
times. Now we’re at that last pesky stitch that still
doesn’t fit in. We could either switch the last k2tog
to a k3tog to get rid of it, or we could ignore it
completely. It’s just one stitch.
Then we’ll work the next round/row plain, do
another decrease round (eliminating 1 knit st from
each section every time), and keep going like that
until our last decrease round is just k2tog for each
section. After the k2tog’s, cut a 6” tail of yarn,
draw it through the remaining stitches, pull it tight,
and sew in the end. Fingers: done.
Now we’ll head back to the thumb stitches which,
up until this point, we’ve been ignoring. Put the
stitches back on your needles and remove the
waste yarn. You can work the thumb either flat or
in the round, according to your preference. Simply
join the yarn and start knitting. (Leave a tail that’s
6-8” long; you’ll use that later to sew the tiny gap
between the thumb and hand.)
Now, you might be asking the question, This is all fingers are a little longer and don’t fit into the last
well and good for making mittens for myself, but third, so it’s not an exact science.) The same is true
Work the thumb straight until it measures halfway how do I size mittens for people who aren’t here?
for a child’s hand, although they’re generally a little
up your thumbnail. Then decrease it, similarly to the
wider proportionally.
way you decreased the hand, but more dramatically: This is an interesting problem. You see, most
work k1, k2tog around (and if there’s an extra stitch, standard body measurements can be found online Your best bet, then, is to get a tracing and
just knit it), then work one round/row plain, then somewhere; the Craft Yarn Council website has a measurement of the mitten recipient’s hand. Or to
k2tog all the way around, and you’re done. Cut the great list there. But there’s nothing about standard note the differences between your own hand and
yarn, draw the tail through the remaining stitches hand circumferences or finger and hand lengths. I theirs, and then knit accordingly.
and pull tight, and sew in the ends. If you’ve worked did find an image in the public domain on Wikipedia,
your mitten flat, now is the time to sew the side which I’ve included here for your reference.
Good luck, and happy knitting.
seams on the hand and the thumb.
The general rule of thumb (haha) is that you can
Can you believe it? You just made a mitten! Now divide a hand into thirds. The total length of the
you can make mitten number two, remembering to hand, starting from the wrist, would be made of
place the thumb gusset in a position mirrored to the three parts, each about the
first one.
length of the thumb. (My
For your reference, I have measured the hands of some average-sized
kids I know in case you need concrete numbers to knit for children.
Age
Circumference Length
10 years
9 years
8 years
6 years
3 years
12-18 months
7”
6 1/4”
6”
5 3/4”
5 1/4”
4 1/2”
6 1/2”
6”
5 1/2”
5”
4 1/4”
3 1/2”
Worsted Cast On # of
Sts (4.5 sts per inch)
32
28
26 or 28
24 or 26
22 or 24
20
Thumb
Gusset Sts
15
13
11 or 13
11
9 or 11
9
As you can see, the ten-year-old’s hand is almost the size of an adult’s,
so if you’re knitting for a teenager, you should be able to knit a size
that would fit your own hand.
The copyright for each article in The Tangled Skein belongs to its respective
author. Do not reprint or redistribute anywhere else without the author’s express
permission.
17
Show & Tell
September 2013
Photos By Suzanne Lesage
Text By Amanda Schwabe
Julia Yeung
left
Hallgrim Hat
Source: Interweave
Yarn: Superwash merino
Notes: She was “so effusive in my
praise on Ravelry that the author
messaged me to say thank you.”
right
Baby Sweater
Source: Internet
Yarn: Superwash Merino
Notes: Meant it to be unisex, but
found girly buttons on sale.
Suzanne Lesage
bottom right
Felted soaps
Source: her brain
Yarn: Rovings
Notes: On a trip to Croatia, she found
felted soap and wondered, “How do they
do that?” She went to Wabi Sabi and got
a quick version of the class: wrap soap in
roving and rub it until it felts. It works! It
took about 10-15 minutes to do. Really fun.
She showed it to another knitting group
and they said, “That’s cheating! You didn’t
knit anything.” So she knitted a pouch and
felted it. “You just knit too big and then you
shrink it.” She made a little loop to cover an
imperfection, but it’s perfect for hanging (so
the soap doesn’t get mouldy from sitting).
18
Jessamyn
Lusignan
top left & right
Socks
Source: not given
Yarn: Kroy & unknown.
Notes: She made size 13
socks for her husband
and had enough yarn
left over to make
women’s size 3 socks
for her mom.
bottom left
Drop Stitch Scarf
Source: Ravelry
Yarn: Patons Mosaic
from a tent sale at WoolTyme
bottom right
Lulu
Source: Knitting
Everyday Finery by Mel
Clark
Yarn: Patons Mosaic
19
Jessamyn
Lusignan
left
Eileen Cardigan
Source: Knitty.com
Yarn: Patons Classic
Notes: Added more
lace. Still needes
blocking and zipper.
Heather Ablett
right
Ablet (an abacus
knitting bracelet)
Source: http://
knittingabacus.com/
Notes: Made with
beads. Counts up to
99. Total coincidence
that its name is the
same as her last name!
(She didn’t make it; she
bought it online.)
Debi Brown
20
right
Hockey sweater
Source: Modified
from another pattern
to create what she
wanted.
Yarn: DK
Notes: This one is full
of errors, but she’s
making a second one.
Hockey Canada’s logo.
Louise Manship
far left
Child’s circular vest
Source: Sirdar pattern
booklet (ask at Yarn
Forward)
Yarn: BFL (Blue-Faced
Leicester)
Notes: Fits a six year
old.
left
Adult’s circular vest
Source: Sirdar
Yarn: Picked her
favourite DK’s: Wool,
wool/silk/cashmere and
cotton/silk.
Jeannie Grundy
far left
Snail Hat
Source: Elizabeth
Zimmermann’s
Knitting Without
Tears, reprinted in
Vogue Knitting Winter
2008/09.
Yarn: exactly one ball of
Thick’n’Quick
left
Hats Off! hat
Source: Hats On! book
by Charlene Schurch
Yarn: BFL & baby
mohair
21
Notes: Both hats
are donations to
the Government of
Canada’s Workplace
Charitable Campaign,
to be auctioned off.
Liane Thiry-Smith
far left
Scarf
Source: her sister-inlaw, Paula Smith
Yarn: Jade Sapphire
Silk-Cashmere
Notes: Her summer
concert (Jazz Festival)
project. Feather & fan,
her second one; made
the first one for her
mom.
left
Scarf
Source: Grab a ball and
needles and just knit.
Yarn: Bamboo
Notes: Another
summer concert
project.
bottom
Bowl/Basket
Source: her own design
Yarn: Wool
Notes: Crocheted and
felted. No pattern, but
made from experience
with other patterns.
She figured out the
architecture. Probably
for holding papers or
yarn.
22
Auriol Rapin
top left
Felted Slippers
Source: Canadian Living
Yarn: Julia
Notes: Fall fair entry &
winner!
23
top middle
Back-To-School Washcloth
Source: not given
Notes: Fall fair entry &
winner.
top right
Horse with garland
Source: from Toymaking
with Children by Freya
Jaffke?
Yarn: not given
Notes: She wanted to say,
“I won a ribbon for my
horse at the fall fair!”
bottom left
Fair Isle hat and mitts
Source: not given
Notes: Fall fair entry &
winner.
bottom right
Christmas stocking
Source: not given
Yarn: mohair & fun fur
Notes: Felted, fall fair entry
Gudrun
Klingelstein
far left
Haruni
Source: Ravelry
Yarn: Fleece Artist
Merino 2/6
Notes: Nice beginner
lace (her first lace
project)
left
Draper
Source: Shibui and
Ravelry
Yarn: 2.5 balls of yellow
100% alpaca and 1
skein of Malabrigo
100% merino
Notes: She loved lace
so much that she made
this in Uruguay. The
yarns are souvenirs
from her trip.
bottom
Blanket
Source: squares from
now-defunct Canadian
Master Knitting
program
Yarn: Briggs & Little
24
Natalie Servant
far left
Meander Shawl
Source: Natalie
Servant, on Ravelry
Yarn: Handspun, odds &
ends sorted by colour
Notes: V-shaped
modified feather & fan
with lifted increases.
Reversible, garter.
left
Meander Shawl
Source: Natalie Servant
Yarn: Noro Kureyon
Sock, 1 skein
Notes: Designed for
yarn with long colour
repeats.
remember,
Nancy Bush
is coming to
Ottawa!
25
Laurie Chochinov
bottom
Risti Mittens
Source: Nancy
Bush, from The
Knitters Book of Wool
Yarn: Fingering weight
Notes: She has a friend
whose dog ate the
thumb of her last mitts
(which Laurie also
made). These are to
replace them. “If she
gives them to the dog
again, she’s in such
trouble.” They are
made in the Latvian
way, with no thumb
gusset and traditional
shaping at the
fingertips.
Julie Stewart
far left and left
Two Broomstick-Stitch
Shawls
Source: her own design
Yarn: recycled and dyed
wool.
Notes: She figured out
the broomstick stitch
on her own; someone
asked her how to do it,
and she couldn’t find
it in any book. The
shawls were made as
part of a challenge to
combine yarn and silk
in one project. One
was dyed at the West
Carleton Fibre Guild’s
final meeting before
summer break.
Belinda Forsee
bottom
Shifting Ribs Scarf
Source: Natalie
Servant, on Ravelry
Yarn: Blue acrylic
Notes: “Oh my gosh!
You start with a tubular
cast on!” Also features
tubular cast off and left
twist and right twist.
She learned four new
skills! Her husband
asked for it, and the
next one is already on
her needles.
26
Gen Nielsen
Front
Back
left
Sweater Babe #144
Source: Sweater Babe
Yarn: Berrocco Vintage
Notes: For her
daughter. A-line, so
hoping to get more
than one year out of it.
“Made size 6. Switched
the reverse stockinette
to straight stockinette.
First attempt at
pockets.”
bottom
Angie
Source: Melissa
Leapman’s Knitting the
Perfect Fit
Yarn: Louet Merlin Sport
Notes: Made a size
between a medium and
a small and made it
longer. Had to do math
to change the lace
repeats and make them
symmetrical in her size.
“Headache.”
27
Peigi Dumouchel
top
Lizard Ridge Afghan
Source: Laura Aylor, on
Knitty.com
Yarn: Noro Kureyon
Notes: Five colourways
from the outsides &
insides of the balls.
Short rows and I-cord
edging. “Totally
addictive.”
bottom
Yoked Cardigan
Source: Hannah Fettig,
on Ravelry
Yarn: Estelle Sakura
Notes: Added length.
28
Sheila Weinfurter
top left
Basic Top-Down, Short Row
Heel Socks
Source: Charlene Schurch, in
Sensational Knitted Socks
Yarn: Patons Kroy 4 Ply
Notes: 2.5 mm needle. Made
three pairs.
top right
Bolero & Cap
Source: James C. Brett, on
Ravelry
Yarn: Marble DK, 2 skeins
Notes: 4 mm needles.
18-month size. It’s an “applepicking” sweater for her
granddaughter.
bottom left
Linen Summer Wrap
Source: By Mags Kandis, in
Gifted: Lovely
Little Things
to Knit and
Crochet
Yarn: Lana
Grossa Divina,
2 skeins
Notes: Yarn
from her friend
in Germany.
Made her this
scarf for her
birthday.
29
bottom right
Lace Topper
Source: By
Lisa Akers,
no longer
available.
Yarn: Patons
Grace
Rosewood
Notes: Added
cord to lace the
sides closed.
Claudia Howard
top
Eyjafjallajokull Shawl
Source: By Anna Dalvi, on
Ravelry
Yarn: 100% Einband Alafoss
Iceland
Notes: She took a trip to
Iceland at the end of May
and decided to knit Anna’s
pattern of the 2010 volcano
eruption. Bought the wool in
Iceland. It’s a lace version of
Lopi. In Iceland, you buy wool
at the grocery store (along
with horse meat and tools, if
you want). She spent about
$20 on the Alafoss yarn at a
couple grocery stores. It will
be an heirloom baby blanket
for future grandchildren.
sides closed.
Louise Moore
bottom
Shawl
Source: her own?
Yarn: Mohair & wool, possibly
hand-dyed and handspun. A
souvenir of her trip to Norway.
(Read about it in the last issue
of The Tangled Skein.)
Notes: The one skein of yarn
cost $60 “What is it made
of? I don’t know. The lady
didn’t speak either French or
English.” No regrets on the
purchase; it’s a great souvenir.
To make it, she cast on 5 sts,
then increased every other
row by 4 sts.
30
Kathy McEwen
top left
Mystic Delight Shawl
Source: By Anna Dalvi, on
Ravelry
Yarn: Cascade 220
Superwash
Notes: Her second Mystic
Delight, this one for her
mom’s Christmas gift.
top right
Giraffe
Source: Knitted Wild Animals
book
Yarn: Acrylic
Notes: Liked it so much she
made two. They’re for baby
gifts.
bottom
Bennu
Source: Ancient Egypt in Lace
and Color by Anna Dalvi
Yarn: ArtByAna Merino/silk
from last year’s Vendor’s
Night
Notes: She loves Anna Dalvi’s
patterns.
31
Amanda Schwabe
top left
Vilai
Source: Sock Innovation by
Cookie A.
Yarn: Knit Picks Stroll Tweed
Notes: Loved knitting them.
The pattern flows beautifully.
top right
Adventure Sock
Source: By verybusymonkey
on Ravelry
Yarn: Cascade Yarns Heritage
Silk
Notes: They were challenging
because you work four charts
at once. Not tv knitting.
bottom left
Effervescent
Source: Amanda Schwabe, on
Ravelry
Yarn: Debbie Bliss Baby
Cashmerino
Notes: Used the stitch
pattern from her Grandma’s
cardigan for the lacy edging.
Was inspired by the spring
colours.
32
bottom right
Dress/top
Source: her brain
Yarn: Knit Picks Swish DK
Notes: Made for 3-yearold daughter. Inspired by
Elizabeth Zimmermann’s
February Baby Sweater in
The Knitter’s Almanac. Used
her principles of sizing to
start the neck, then switched
from allover increases to
raglan increases. Worked the
body as an A-line so it’ll fit as
a top after she grows out of it
as a dress.
your words
The End of the Skein
Last month, we asked you a lot of questions!
Jana sent this in: “Reading posts on Ravelry and
talking to fellow knitters, I realize that not only are
we always optimistic and very social, but we are
also excellent shoppers. What with so many fibrerelated events in and around where we live, and
events that call for a yarn crawl outside the city
-- sometimes at great distances -- we are always,
always adding to our stash!
So, I want to know how people manage their stash.
Do you have a list of your yarns with the intended
patterns that inspired the purchase of said yarn,
stored in Ravelry and/or anywhere else? Do you
have a wall of fame (or shame) where all your
yarns are displayed in something like a bookshelf
of some sort with the pattern close-by (use your
imagination - mine is doing cartwheels!)?
If you get only enough yarn for the project you are
currently working on, how do you do that without
getting side tracked?
And how do you plan your year’s worth of knitting?
There’s the other side of this coin: it can be expensive to amass such exquisite tactile wonders. How
do you manage the expense? Do you have to sell
your FOs to stay afloat?
It will be sooo interesting to see your feedback!”
something new. Some have been discarded (and
I did survive the shame of not finishing that scarf,
sweater, etc). The rest have gone into my UFO box.
Still not done, but there’s a better chance now that
they are all together. The yarn was then sorted into
what I still would love to use and that which I really
didn’t care about. The later got divided by type
and given away to schools and charitable knitting
groups (OKG and others.)
I sorted the rest by weight and have stored it in
bins in a closet and in my family room.
My knitting consists of gifts, stuff for me, stuff to
try new techniques, and charity knitting. Charity
knitting starts in January and includes things for one
of my favourite charity’s craft sales, and hats and
scarves for the shelters. All have to be done by the
end of the summer. All are easy patterns that I can
knit in meetings, in the car, or while talking on the
phone. Gifts typically start in September. Stuff for
me also starts then, and, for the next little while, will
come out of the UFO box and can be more difficult.
I always have some simple charitable piece to take
with me when I am going to a doctor’s appointment
or some other place where I will have to wait.
As to expense of yarn -- I don’t smoke, I don’t
gamble, I don’t drink more than one Scotch every
week or so. I put all of the vice money that I could
have spent on smoking, drinking, and gambling to
knitting, and, in doing so, save a bundle on anxiety
and blood pressure medication.
Sandra S.
These are your answers.
Must say my stash got way out of hand, and when
I realized that I would have to live to be 250 and
knit every day to use it all, I realized I had to do
something. The book The Joy of Less helped.
I am bad at managing my stash. I buy yarn without
regard for which project it will be used in. This
leaves me with many single-skein yarns. The
upside is that I like small projects like baby items,
hats, socks, and gloves.
So, I opened every bin, bag, and box
and looked at it all and found several
projects I had started
and put away to pick up
My yarn is in large rubbermaids, in clear bags by
type, but it’s spread around the storage area -- the
only place my yarn is all together is on Ravelry.
33
The stash function is invaluable.
Jeannie G.
I have a storage unit with five shelves and two
double doors -- it couldn’t possibly be open to view
since I share this space with the washer and dryer,
and my husband does the laundry! Within the
cupboard are plastic see-through storage bins and
large salad containers to hold the various projects.
I stopped buying yarn without a pattern in mind
years ago when I came back to Canada with the
equivalent of five green garbage bags full of yarn
that I never ended up using and eventually gave
away. Now, I buy only for the pattern I’m making,
although I have enough projects stored for the next
couple of years. I keep a running list on Ravelry
and also organize my stash there. I also like to
keep a mini list of the next ten or so projects taped
to my desk at work where I can see it while I’m
on the “job.” This list gets reorganized regularly
depending on Christmas presents, birthday
presents, or someone having a baby. I justify the
expense of my hobby because I am still working
and wear what I make to the office. I also make a
lot of gifts. It’s a good vice to have!
Sheila W.
Re: the question:
You manage the stash!!!!????
peace:
Belinda F.
I was a bit intrigued by your request. It recalled an
event for me which has special significance.
Several years ago now, as I was beginning to make
my own patterns and designs, I had occasion to
billet Annabelle Dawson, who was then well known
in Toronto for her teaching. She was fondly called
the Entrelac lady.
After one of our Guild’s workshop sessions,
Annabelle suddenly announced that it was time for
me to show her my stash and explain what I wanted
to do with it. I reluctantly took her to my hobby
area in the basement. I had yarn in cupboards and
some in see through plastic stackable boxes. She
was quite critical, as I expected.
First, she said I didn’t have enough different colours
to begin to design wearable clothing; I still hadn’t
the courage to dispense with enough money to
create a rich enough stash for designing. Secondly,
she didn’t only suggest -- she said I had to separate
my yarn by colour, otherwise I wouldn’t understand
what I had to work with.
works, but sometimes I have to purchase a ball or
two to add interest or simply to have enough yarn.
However, I do reduce my stash.
So, even though I remember Annabelle for her
Entrelac instruction, it is her advice on my stash
that really impacted my knitting!
Elizabeth P.
So, I dutifully sorted my yarn by colour (I ignored
weight as I had been told.) Then, I went out
and bought some more yarn in glorious colors
after deciding what weight would most likely be
comfortable for me (double knitting weight).
After a heart-palpitating run in with carpet beetle
larvae chewing through my favourite wool garmets,
I began storing all of my yarn in ziploc bags in the
freezer. (Kidding. I took them out of the freezer
after a couple of days, once I knew the little pests
were definitely dead.) Those baggies are all in a
dresser in my office, sorted by weight and colour.
I like to be able to open the drawers and see at a
glance what I have, so I try not to stack things too
much.
So, I have continued to add to my see-through
stackable boxes (as well as their contents!). My
significant departure is having two separate boxes
for pure acrylic yarn used for toys and children’s
clothing. Also, I do have some small amount of
lace-weight yarn which I tend to keep in a separate
place.
I also have a spot beside my chair in the living
room that holds all of my “current project” yarn,
in theory. I have to sort through it every so often
because I don’t usually return it to the office when
I’m done with it. When it overflows, I eventually
get around to putting things away. But darn it, I
like to see my yarn. It’s pretty.
Annabelle’s suggestions have served me well, and
my stash is still quite well ordered. I know at a
glance what I have. But, for the most part, I have
no particular knitting plans for a good part of my
stash.
That reminds me: I also have a cute little spot over
my desk in the kitchen that displays my newest
and prettiest yarns. It’s one of those bars from Ikea
from which you can dangle hooks and flower pots.
I have skeins in the flower pots and hanging from
the hooks; I use the yarn as home decor.
The different weights are not a problem. I enjoy
being challenged to construct something from
a combination of yarns that I have. I sometimes
use multiple strands of yarn, mixing textures and
colors, if I want or need heavier weights, and
this offers the potential for creating super colour
effects too, especially if one of the skinny yarns is
variegated. The reality is that I make allowances
for the yarn weight since the overriding
consideration in designing is the colour
combination, unless the garment is
one colour. Usually, some
combination of my stash
34
As for how I plan my knitting, I rarely have a whole
year’s worth of projects planned in advance. I’d say
that projects happen as they come to me, as time
allows, or as birthdays come up. I am selling some
of my knitting lately, since I could use the extra
money, so those take priority. It’s hard to make a
decent wage from selling hand-knit items, though,
so I only sell quick knits, and only for a high price.
If there are people willing to pay the price, I’ll make
it for them. Otherwise, I’ve got other things in my
queue!
Very often, there are projects that have to go on
my “someday” list because they’re just not quite
important enough yet. Knitting to figure out my
own designs or to sell an item comes first, mostly.
But every now and then, my brain needs a break,
and working on someone else’s pattern is a treat I
indulge in.
I’m learning to have a little more self control at
the yarn shop, too. I try to buy only with specific
projects in mind. And if I don’t have the spending
money, I know I have to stay away! Once I’m in
the door, I’m in trouble. (The problem is that it’s so
easy to imagine up a “specific project” when faced
with a lovely skein of new yarn. Too easy.)
p.s. The best thing about having carpet beetles
chew through your sweaters is that you have to
sort through all your yarn! I found treasures I had
forgotten about. I’ve been knitting a lot from my
stash lately.
Amanda S.
Next month’s question is
How do you use the internet
conjunction with your knitting?
Send your answers to
[email protected]
in
Ottawa Knitting Guild
Workshops with
Deb Gemmell
REGISTRATION INFORMATION
October 28, 2013
All workshops will take place at 30 Norice Street, Nepean, ON
Join Deb Gemmell for a day of learning new techniques. A specialist in no-sew
knitting, Deb is co-author of many pattern books, most recently Need an Accessory and Need a Plus Size Cardigan. The “Need a ...” books provide pattern
variations on a theme, adapting to different yarn types and gauges. Deb and
her sister Lynda run Cabin Fever, a full service business based in Woodville,
Ontario selling yarn, patterns and organizing knitting events. Cabin Fever is
also the source for Shelridge Farm yarns.
Come all day or chose a half-day workshop. There is a maximum of 12 students
per session. Priority will be given to those who register for the full day. Registration, with payment in full, is due by October 22nd. Registration includes
morning & afternoon refreshment breaks. A sandwich lunch will be provided to
those who participate for the full day.
Complete the registration form and return it with payment (please make
cheques payable to “Ottawa Knitting Guild”) at the October OKG meeting or
by mail to: Kathy McEwan, 43 Starwood Road, Nepean, ON K2G 1Y9
For further information please contact: Laurie Chochinov (laurie.chochinov@
sympatico.ca).
THE WORKSHOPS
Monday, October 28, 9:00 – 12:00
V-Neck Top Down: 3 hours Beginner/Intermediate Level knitter
Put a V-Neck on a Top Down teddy-bear sized raglan cardigan. After knitting
this small sweater you will know all the techniques necessary to knit a larger
version. You will learn how to use short rows to change the neckline of any
square necked top down pattern into a V or scoop neck. Imagine the possibilities. Based on the Baby V and Button Up Your Top Down books by Cabin Fever.
Supplies: DK weight yarn, 4.0mm circular needle (60cm long),
4.0mm double pointed needles, markers, sewing up needle.
35
Monday, October 28, 1:00 – 4:00
The Amazing I-Cord: 3 hours Beginner & Intermediate
I-cord can be added to many of your knitted projects. It makes a tiny tube
which is incredibly versatile. You can work an I-cord cast on and cast off. You
can add it to your garter stitch garments for a lovely finished edge, work buttonhole loops, finish a hat with a tail on the top like a French beret or make ties
on a hat with flaps. We’ll discover many more uses as we work in class.
Supplies: 50g of worsted weight yarn, 4.5mm straight needles and a 4.5mm
set of double pointed needles.
REGISTRATION FORM ON NEXT PAGE.
Ottawa Knitting Guild
Workshops with Deb Gemmell
REGISTRATION FORM
October 28, 2013
All workshops will take place at 30 Norice Street, Nepean, ON
All workshops are 3 hours.
Name: _______________________________________________________
Email: ________________________________________________________
Phone: ________________________________________________________
Guild Member:
Yes
No
Check
Selection
For Guild Use Only
Registered Waiting List
V-Neck Top Down
October 28, 9:00 - 12:00
The Amazing I-Cord
October 28, 1:00 - 4:00
Payment Details
Amount Due
1 workshop $35
Payment Received:
2 workshops $60
Cash
Cheque
Date:
Mail to: Kathy McEwen, 43 Starwood Road, Nepean, ON, K2G 1Y9
Registration must be received by October 22, 2013.
36