reSORT First BIRTHDAY

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#12
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First BIRTHDAY
ISSUE!
SCOUTlook turns ONE
We introduce our global SCOUTS
AUGUST 2012
plus:
Premium + Seek
Indepth report on the BERLIN tradefairs
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PUMA
social
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club
PLUS>
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rePORT
New Music in August / Material Culture / The Siam
Superhuman Exhibition / Temple of Denim / The Gourmand
+ New architecture in London
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#12
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trade fairs
Premium
bomboogie
This label has built a loyal following, by taking inspiration from original and authentic menswear
staples, such as Army and Navy uniforms of the Second World War. What’s clever is the reinvention
in techno fabrics merchandised with timeless everyday pieces like a chambray shirt or cotton chino
and short. In a palette of tonal naval blues with crisp white or more earthy and rugged khaki greens,
russet reds and rust with acidic green, even the camouflage print looked contemporary for the urban
jungle where the jacket is always the hero.
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SEEK
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One of the reasons we report on trade fairs is to give our clients,
who may not have the time and resources to travel and visit, a
seasonal direction and carefully edited view of what is trending as
well as confirming trends and directions which we forecasted up to
12 months ahead. We also want to showcase some new labels not
necessarily on everyone’s radar but ones we think are important to
watch.
PREMIUM in Berlin is the perfect fair to SCOUT the new and confirm
the season and its annex spin off next door, SEEK aimed at a more
edgier, younger customer with a casual edge has also grown in terms
of space and the caliber of European brands showing.
Here’s our pick of the best brands and looks for Spring Summer 2013
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riveras
Menswear accessory companies are going through a massive renaissance much as the women’s market did a
decade ago. Men love a bit of a revival look and this brand stood out with its mix of retro influenced, beach
inspired sneakers with contemporary colour combinations. Hessian, raffia, open effect and ethnic weaves are
the perfect partners for retro preppy and summer surfing looks.
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Tamarama Beach
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SCOUT
Sydney
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SCOUT profile
Object of desire:
Dalsace desk
Bourke Street Bakery
Amanda Hedl
I’ve been working at SCOUT for almost a year now. I do a
lot of different jobs in the studio – research, writing articles
and blogs, runway reports, and swatching the trend books.
I was born and bred in Sydney, and what I love about it here
is that you don’t have to drive very far for the landscape to
change dramatically. In the summertime I spend my free
time at Tamarama beach. Or there’s something nostalgic
about going up to the Blue Mountains in the winter, where
the air is crisp and there’s plenty of green space. If I’m in the
mountains I stay at Old Leura Dairy. It’s an old dairy farm
that’s been converted into sustainable cottages. There’s even
an outdoor hot tub made from a milk vat! I live inner city,
and love going to Centennial Park to feed the ducks.
Old Leura Dairy,
Blue Mountains
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The SCOUT studio is in the perfect location in Surry Hills.
We love Bourke St Bakery, a 5-minute walk from us. If I’m
having a few drinks with friends it’s at The Midnight Special
in Enmore. My drink of choice is their Tim Collins. If I’m
feeling like a dance it’s at Goodgod Smallclub on Liverpool
St. The ice cream at Gelato Messina in Darlinghurst is to die
for. Yum cha on Sunday is a treat, at either East Ocean or The
Eight, both in Haymarket. I go to Surry Hills Markets now
and then, it’s on the first Saturday of every month. Reverse
Garbage in Marrickville gets donated industrial off cuts
& leftovers, I go there when I’m obsessing over my latest
crazy project idea. Planet Furniture in Surry Hills handcrafts
sustainable furniture from spotted gum ply, and the patina
of their ply is beyond beautiful. I’ve been eyeing off the
Dalsace desk for years. I get my art supplies from Art On
King in Newtown, and there is endless book inspiration at
Kinokuniya in the city.
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Reverse Garbage
Dion Lee
Gelato Messina
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Zimmermann
Ellery
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Centennial Park
Fashion wise, Sydney designer Dion Lee is exceptionally
talented, he’s already making it big in London. For strong
tailoring I love Ellery, and for the beach, every girl should
own a Zimmermann swimsuit. Those Zimmermann sisters
know how to do a modern vintage-inspired floral print well.
My fave fashion magazine is RUSSH for it’s honest youthful
feel that’s so today.
Surry Hills markets
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Material
august
CULTURE
1> Charlotte Medin, ‘Textile Consequences’
How can the juxtaposition of materials and processes formulate a new
textile craft?
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For this month’s Material Culture we’ve picked our
favourites from the graduates of the Central Saint
Martins MA Textile Futures course, an incubator of
materials innovation.
Medin’s project seeks to take traditional craft skills, commonly passed down
from generation to generation, and instead, try to invent new types of craft.
The results are a series of experiments in new types of textiles combining
different types of material. “Playing upon combined tactile qualities, material
behaviours and analogue processes, I used textiles as a tool to invent
and develop unusual crafted products by hand.”
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2> Jennifer Yang, “Secret Rainbow”
How can textiles interact with sunlight to create a magical sensation and bring
an element of surprise to daily life?
Jennifer Yang explores how sunlight and the surrounding environment can be
used to create magical textile surfaces. When the sun rises, a series of plain
backlit curtains unveil fairytale shapes that reveal pattern and colour changes
in different light tones. “Sunlight is a key ingredient of our everyday well-being
and emotional positivity, it has been so throughout history and is embodied in
mythology throughout cultures worldwide.”
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3> Dahea Sun, “Rain Palette”
How can rain indicate the quality of the air by location and time?
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We’ve seen a trend in futuristic materials that hope to offer health-giving
benefits by purifying the air. This concept fabric visualises the quality of the
air around it through rainwater, dyed with natural dye that changes colour
according to the pH levels in the rainwater that falls on it. In theory, users
could upload the pH readings to a central database to help science keep track
of the environment, albeit in a very beautiful way.
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4> Shamees Aden, “Protocells: a new ‘living’ material technology”
Can the study of Protocell principles provoke a new vision for future materials?
This extraordinary project utilises an extraordinary component, Protocells. A
synthetic biological substance somewhere between the living and the nonliving or in material terms the ‘manmade’ and the ‘synthetic’. “Encouraging
the emergence of life from lifeless liquid chemicals manufactured artificially in
the laboratory could provide us the building blocks to create a new man-made
nature”. Very much still at concept stage, the project offers a glimpse of a
future where science, perhaps even living matters leads the material charge.
Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen understand clothes, so it’s no surprise that
they were the CFDA Womenswear Designer winners this year. The
Row is about the understated luxury of a garment, an appreciation
for things like the weave of the fabrication, the finishing of a hem.
The little things that so many customers are completely oblivious to.
But not The Row woman, she knows it’s about the subtleties of these
things that create a truly exquisite garment. And that is exactly what
their Resort collection is an ode to. The used of, supposed “old lady”
Italian shoe label Silvia Fiorentina for this collection, is a stroke of
genius, and really does say it all.
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Real clothes for real women
Resort 2013
A return to real tailoring and silhoutetes that flatter the
female figure rather than constrict it. Clothes women can
work and play in. What’s interesting is both collections
chosen to demonstrate this new direction, are designed
by women for women.
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McCartney’s trademark streamlined tailoring, oversize blazers
and coats, and body skimming voluminous frocks were all present
at the carnival styled resort event, but what make this collection
new is McCartney’s playful mix of soft colours and exaggerated
vintage inspired floral and leopard jacquards. The daring attitude
that threaded throughout this riotous collection rendered
this a collection for those who “don’t want to play it too safe.”
Something we celebrate.
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stella
McCARTNEY
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