- Upstreampaddle
Transcription
- Upstreampaddle
the Logan River .... Wyaralong Dam, Teviot Brook,Teviot Falls, and the Scenic Rim Teviot Falls - Getting there from Boonah Boonah - Rathdowney Road 14.4 km to Carney's Creek Rd., Carney's Creek Road - right onto Head Road 29km from town, Teviot Gap and Falls - 40km from Boonah The dam on Teviot Brook is under construction, and the map above of Wyaralong Dam, the walking trails, the trailhead facilities, and the campgrounds, are still plans on paper. The road from Beaudesert to Boonah was realigned away from the anticipated waters, and the new road was opened in June 2010. The dam is due to be completed mid 2011, and then it is a question of how long it takes to fill with water. Hopefully, at that time, the magazine will update this article with some on the ground, and water, photographs. Ten kilometres or so downstream from the dam, Teviot Brook joins the Logan River. At this time, before the dam is built, the creek is a quiet and peaceful little waterway, out in cattle country. Teviot Brook from the old Beaudesert Road, near Lilybrook. Very little water flows down the Teviot Brook in the dry seasons, and the photograph to the left shows a billabong, with backed up water. Often the creek is a string of waterholes with the dry sandy streambed exposed between them. Further upstream, the water is crystal clear and clean, and owes the fact that it flows most of the year, to its beginnings in the rainforested slopes of Mt Roberts, up on the Scenic Rim. The narrow road to Teviot Gap, and The Head, splashes through the water half a dozen times, as it climbs up to the pass. The photograph above left, shows Mt Wilson and Teviot Gap, and was taken on the Boonah Rathdowney Road, just before Black Rock Creek, and 3 kilometres before Carney's Creek Road turns right towards Teviot Gap. At the top of the road, just before it crosses to the west, and flat valley pastures, there is a view of Teviot Brook as it falls off the Scenic Rim. In the misty blue afternoon light, it is difficult to see the falls clearly. Page 4 Once past Teviot Gap, the road goes west towards Queen Mary Falls, and the small town of Killarney. The unfenced pastures just west has to be the most beautiful road landscape anywhere in South East Queensland. The background in the distance (photo left) is a line of cliffs that are the start of Condamine Gorge. This valley is the start of the Condamine River, starting a few hundred metres from Teviot Brook, but flowing west to join the Darling River, then the Murray River, to finish in South Australia. At Teviot Gap, Mt Wilson is visible to the left, and a walking track leads away to the right. This is the start of the walking track to Mt Roberts, Mt Superbus (highest mountain in SE Queensland), and the Scenic Rim trail traversing Lizard Point, The Steamers, Panorama Point, Mt Huntley, Doubletop, Spicers Peak, and Mt Matheison to Cunningham's Gap on the Cunningham Highway to Warwick. That's a 3 or 4 day walk in a National Park. The Teviot Falls can be seen from a small road layby just short of the top. Take note that the extremely steep slope just off the road is above a high cliff, and use caution when seeking a photographic viewpoint. If you have children with you do not proceed beyond the road guardrail. About 700m up the Mt Superbus track is a small stream. This stream flows to south Teviot Falls (not really visible from the road lookout). Past the wooden bridge over the stream, the old road dwindles to an overgrown walking track. Bushwalkers intending to climb Mt Superbus should have clear directions on how to find the old rabbit fence, on leaving the logging track. walking track start (looking back) Mt Wilson Page 5 Mooloolah River National Fort Rous Moreton IslandPark Page 9 Fort Rous, Moreton Island On the ocean side of Moreton Island, is the remains of World War II fortifications, a coastal artillery battery known as Fort Rous.What the visitor today can find is half a dozen concrete structures that housed two field guns, magazines to serve them, searchlights, a plotting room, and a command and observation post. Most of these structures are in the form of concrete bunkers with 300mm thick walls. Some of the structures have sunk into the sand, others have collapsed as the sand around them blown away. All evidence of a formal layout, such as roads or access paths have vanished, and the concrete bunkers are mostly hidden in regrowth vegetation. The Fort Rous walking track runs south east from near Tangalooma to the site. above: the Northern Observation Post, 8.2 km south of the Middle Road, 3.2 km north of Fort Rous. Visitors traveling down the beach 8.2 km from Middle Road will see a track to a concrete bunker, when they are 3.2 km north of Fort Rous. This was the Northern Observation Post..Three kilometres south, the No. 2 Gun Emplacement is visible from the beach, as the concealing dune has eroded away. Stay safely clear of this collapsing structure. At the site entrance , a National Parks sign FORT ROUS WW II FORTIFICATIONS marks the short (150m.) track off the beach.This track climbs a sandy hill to a turna -round. A Water Point is next to the foot of the hill. The water is emergency use only, definitely requiring boiling before drinking, and looks cloudy. Right at the water tap there is a track 120 m. south down to a heap of collapsed concrete slabs, that used to be a searchlight bunker. below left and right: No. 2 Gun Emplacement Southern searchlight bunker Page 10 The Fort Rous walking track to The Desert, (10km) and Tangalooma, starts at the 4WD track end, and the fortifications are all within the first 400 metres. About 100 metres from the track start is this concrete bunker entrance, (image middle left) easy to identify by the Welcome sign and the swastika some enthusiast has added. This leads downstairs to the Battery Plotting Room. A torch will be useful here. Back above ground, the main trail runs west, but an unmarked trail leads south through the ferns. Turn south at the swastika, step over a wire grated escape hatch, (image below) and 40 metres down the track find the No.1 Gun Emplacement. The photograph to the left is the No. 1 Gun Emplacement. The viewpoint is from near the 'Panama Mount' looking to the magazine and fuse loading hatches into two separate bunkers behind them. There are concrete stairs down to each room, and the one on the northern side is well lit in sunlight hours. The layout and operation of the circular pit for the gun is explained a couple of pages on. A word of caution: while the map on following pages may appear to show bunkers on different tracks as being close to each other, the map is approximate and not accurate for scale. Page 11 Back on the main track, and 80 metres up the sandy track from the Battery Plotting Room bunker, is a faint trail to the right, to the Artillery Store Room. Less and less visible as the trees grow bigger, this is about 60 metres up the side trail .. Left: the Panama Mount at the No1 Gun Emplacement, looking a little overgrown. There are a couple of structures that the author was not able to locate, not shown on the map, including the Northern Searchlight Bunker, as well as the sites where the troops were housed and fed, and some rather anonymous concrete fittings almost hidden in the ferns that were found, but did not seem to have any particular purpose. Left: Artillery Store The main track climbs a small rise and loops south. Just at the top of the rise, about 400 metres from the beach, another trail turns off to the left, with the water tank (image left) immediately visible. Note that this was the water storage for the fortifications in 1943, and that it is not functioning today. On the beach, a sign points uphill to a lookout, which is the concrete bunker on this rise or hilltop, right next to the water tank There is an excellent view south down to the Little Sandhills, and if down the beach is the direction of 12 o'clock, out to the right at 2 o'clock is the high dune of the Big Sandhills. Left: water tank Page 12 Above: Command bunker The Rous Battery walking track from Tangalooma follows the old WW II supply road. A 4WD road leaves the Middle Road one kilometre east from the western beach, and runs three kilometres south, half a kilometre inland, to bypass Tangalooma, re-emerging onto the beach just south of the boat ramp and helipad, on the southern side of Tangalooma. This low tide “road”then runs the length of the south western beach to the southern tip of Moreton Island, and the small town of Kooringal. Half a kilometre before the bypass road rejoins the beach, a road branches off to the left, and is signposted as THE DESERT, some 2 kilometres away. The Rous Battery walking track starts half a kilometre short of the parking area at The Desert, and it is 10 km down to the ocean beach and the fortifications. Below: view south from the Command bunker Alternatively, there there is a signposted walking track from the beach 300 metres south of Tangalooma, across the vegetated dunes, to The Desert, and half a k up the 4WD road, to the start of the Rous Battery walking track. The beach track begins next to a shipping channel marker. The track is steep at first, and is 400m to The Desert. When you emerge from the forest, the carpark is over at 11 o’clock, you can see the fence posts. If going the other way, from The Desert east to the beach, make sure you find the start of the track, which is signposted USE WALKING TRACK.. Trees give good shade from the summer sun on this sandy track, and also on the Rous Battery track. Below: cool inside on a summer’s day Page 13 Rous Battery Walking Track Grade: moderate length: 10km Desert Walking Track Grade: moderate to steep length: 2 km return (400m to open sand dunes) above: track sign, Tangalooma/The Desert end above: track sign, beach 300m south of Tangalooma above: Tangalooma from the start of the beach track below: The Desert carpark from end of the beach track Page 14 above: beach track sign, The Desert entrance. beach track to The Desert (400m to open sand dunes) below: sand toboganning, The Desert Page 15 Page 16 n Page 17 WW II - Australian Coastal Defences Main gun emplacements were M1A1 155mm guns. They were mobile and could be towed by tractor or heavy truck. They weighed 13.9 tonnes (30,600 pounds), had a split trail and eight pneumatic tires, and were served by a combined crew of 15 men. The gun could be pedestal mounted on the so-called "Panama Mount" for its coast-defense mission. On relocation to a fixed site, such as “The Forts” on Magnetic Island, the rear wheels were removed, and the chassis split to form a “Y” shape. The front wheels sat on the concrete Panama Mount or “Gun Cheese” in the middle of the Gun Emplacement, a simple concrete circle designed to stabilize the guns and provide a fixed location to aide in fire control. The guns fired a shell that weighed about 40 kg (90 pounds) a distance of about 22 kilometres (14 miles). above: sunrise at No. 2 Gun Emplacement, Fort Rous, showing the effects of eroding sand, and the Panama Mount or "gun cheese". below: as a well preserved example, the gun "cheese" at the Forts Walk, Magnetic Island. Image courtesy: Alasdair Milne Page 18 155mm M1A1 coastal artillery 1939 - 1945. Towing configuration. Image: Olive-Drab.com 155mm M1A1 coastal artillery 1939 - 1945. Split trail configuration. Image: Olive-Drab.com The image left is of a 155mm coastal artillery field gun, displayed as a advertising fitting for The Big Gun Shopping Centre, Logan Road, Springwood, Brisbane. The gun is mounted with the barrel elevated. It seems likely that the field piece is one of the guns from the World War II Page 19 Think Kayak Hans – j Preuss Awesome !!!! bloody awesome .....was my first thought as I watched James Rennell bringing a trailer full of the new Think kayaks onto the beach front early last Saturday morning. Going back in time for a moment. I had contacted James several months ago following a discussion with Mark Priestly (ex QLD Canoeing). An idea had been in my mind since Townsville had hosted 2 special events – the 3 weirs kayak race and the Adventurethon. Both events required participants to paddle kayaks at high speed over different courses. And ... as Townsville has no shops which have these type of craft would it be a great plan to ask someone if they would bring craft to us to demonstrate. A sort of come’n’try weekend. Mark’s idea became my target. LEGEND Kayak .. length 6.43m (21 feet 6 inches) width 43cm (17 inches) Page 6 FIT Kayak... length 5.2m (17 feet) width 51 cm (20 inches) Luckily, James was very receptive of my plans and we worked together to bring this weekend into reality. Studying the THINK kayak range on the internet did NOT prepare me for the sight of these fine craft in real life. Every person I spoke to was amazed that James had brought them all the way from Brisbane to Townsville for demonstration. Even the best of our paddlers were impressed by what they saw. The gleaming hulls sparkled in the morning sun and stood stunned for a minute before going over to meet James and his partner Lee-Anne. Their warm smiles were infectious and made me feel as though I had known them forever. Once our display was set up people came along to try out these sleek speed machines. The main responses to the skis after they had been tried were the same. Beautiful craft, light fast and ....so responsive. All of us who tried the various skis were very pleased to be able to try them out. The better paddlers began their personal gradings for each of the four types of skis. As listed below in personal preference. EVO Surf Ski length 6.25m (20 feet 6 inches) width 48cm (19 inches) First – the FIT a hybrid kayak/ski featuring a kayak cockpit layout on a ski hull. Very stable and quick Second – the EVO – ocean racing ski – the ideal boat for an intermediate paddler to improve their skills ( and perfect for our conditions in Townsville) Third – the LEGEND – a hard chine flatter hulled craft designed for the advanced paddler Fourth – the UNO – mainly designed for flat water BUT in experienced hands (James) can be used to cross to Magnetic Island and back. James assured me that this boat is a challenge in a cross chop, which he experienced on the Sunday morning. Page 7 UNO Kayak length 6.48m (21 feet 3 inches) width 42cm ( 16 inches) The Evo, Legend andUnoall craft come in three layups – fibreglass, Kevlar and carbon fibre which means they become lighter from fibreglass to carbon fibre. As they become lighter they challenge the paddler but pick up on the runners. The Fit comes in two layups being Kevlar and fiberglass and I was assured by James that given the boats stability, it flies in either layup. BUT ..... as more people had 2 and 3 tryouts the boats became easier to handle. I found this very true with the EVO. Each time I went out it felt more and more comfortable. Also everyone commented on first, the light weight of each boat AND most importantly each ski has been beautifully crafted. The attention to the tiniest details shows true craftsmanship. One of the paddlers, Peter I think, made the best comment that we ALL agreed with “ Heck you don’t want to paddle an ugly boat”. The finish is a credit to the manufacturer – just brilliant !!!! My deepest thanks to James and Lee-Anne for not only their wonderful company but for the effort they put in, to bring such fantastic craft to us here in Townsville. My personal opinion can be best summed up by telling you that I now am the very proud owner/paddler of an EVO. I have already spoken to one of my friends and she is now sewing a tailor-made cover for it. And yes ....it was used this morning (6 km on the river)...and then POLISHED with great care afterwards. LEGEND Kayak length 6.43m ( 21 feet 6 inches) width 43cm (17 inches) EVO Surf Ski length 6.25m (20 feet 6 inches) width 48cm (19 inches) Page 8 Mooloolah River National Park - a pool of water lies on the sandy Aemula trail after rain Page 20 above: The Kawana Way bridge over the Mooloolah River. The canoe launch site is 250 metres east of the bridge. Across the bridge, south from the round-a-bout, it is possible to see the start of the Meleleuca walking track in the Mooloolah River National Park. Exploring Mooloolah River NP The Mooloolah River rises on the eastern slopes of the Blackall Range, and flows for about 70 kilometres to enter the sea at southern Mooloolaba. Tributaries include Addington Creek, (dammed by the Ewen Maddock Dam), Sippy Creek, and Mountain Creek. For the first six kilometers upstream from the mouth, the river is surrounded by housing, with large canal estates north and south of the river. There are various boat ramps on this section, such as off Brisbane Road where it crosses the Mooloolah River, and near the mouth off Parkyn Parade. Upstream from the Kawana Way bridge, the Mooloolah River is within the Mooloolah River National Park for the next six kilometres. launch site There is a canoe launch site 250 metres south from the Kawana Way bridge, which is the closest option for going upriver. The launch site is the sandy river bank, best at half tide and higher. It is ten kilometres upstream from the Kawana Way bridge to where Sippy Creek joins the Mooloolah River, and this junction approximately marks the tidal limit, and limit of sufficient water. Note that the property on the banks is privately owned for the last 4 kilometres before the Sippy Creek junction. The last two kilometers of the river, before Sippy Creek, sees the river narrow in width. There are several points where log snags choke the river, and make access limited to the top of the tide. At the eight kilometre upstream mark, there was, in 2010, a fallen tree completely spanning the river, and another at the 8.6 km mark. Note that in the upper tidal reaches, near Sippy Creek junction, the top of the tide is an hour later than tide times for the mouth. Page 21 Page 22 The tide can run quite quickly in the Mooloolah River, so timing your launch for the rising tide, to go upstream, will make the trip faster, and the launch easier. Above: the launch site, near the Kawana Way bridge, with two views upstream. This is typical estuarine environment, with mangroves on the high water line. The launch site is a either a kind of soft coffee rock, or hard sand. The paddler will share the water with power boats, and the section from the launch up to the Industrial Park and canal estate branch of the Mooloolah.appears to be open to water skiers (permitted for 3.7 kilometres upstream from the Mountain Creek confluence). The channel is not that wide, so keeping close to the bank could be the sensible thing to do, if there are power boats about. About one kilometre upstream from the launch site the eastern bank is a sandy cliff.and 1.75 kilometres upstream is a wide expanse where a weir blocks off theWyuna Canal branch of the river. Six hundred metres upstream from the the weir, and the industrial buildings at Premier Circuit, is a creek opening on the western bank (see right photograph above). This leads to a lagoon system enclosed in the mangroves: explore if you will, at high tide, and take particular note of your entry landscape to avoid geographical embarassment. Page 23 How does a possum cross the river without getting wet? Answer: on a possum bridge. The tree above spans the river, but the two trees (photographs below), at the 8.0 and 8.6km (upstream from launch site) require portages.. . The confluence of the Mooloolah River and Sippy Creek is two kilometres upstream from the second log across the river (photograph above right), a total of ten kilometres from the launch site.. Image left: high tide access only past this tree in the river. The riverbank vegetation gives way from palm trees and rainforest species, to open grassland. The land on both banks is a private cattle running property. Page 24 . I turned around at the 8.6 kilometre upstream mark, after going past a few logs across the river. On the way back down I saw this Wedgetail eagle in a tree above the river. It was only 4 metres or so above the river, and, unexpectedly, did not fly away.when.I paddled underneath its perch. Once past the raptor, I looked back, and caught sight of a sick looking Ibis that the eagle was keeping a close eye on. Eastern Grey male kangaroo seen in the tea tree (meleleuca) .. forest. There are several walking trails in the Mooloolah River National Park, and on the next page a location map is provided. The trails are on fire management roads, and were not constructed for foot traffic. As such, the trails on elevated ground (the Littoralis, Aemula, and Meleleuca trails) are likely to be passable after rain, but the Boronia, Robur, and lower parts of the Meleleuca trail, become water logged, requiring weeks of dry weather to be become accessible. Because the water table is close to the surface in the swampy regions, heavy wet weather may make such trails off limits for several seasons. The area is at its best in the late winter and early spring, when the wild flowers are blooming. The thick close heath vegetation does not encourage off trail walking. As much of the park is low open heathland, with little shade, the summer sun will be very strong, and walking at thoat time of year should be early in the morning. Carry drinking water. At the southern end of Premier Circuit in Warana, starting from the road , and marked by an Information Board, is a raised concrete walkway that runs 600 metres to the Mooloolah River. Page 25 . The images above are of a work in progress, the walkway from Premier Circuit down to the river. At some later time, there should be a trail link to Birtinya, and south to Kawana Forest. The northern trails are sandy tracks. Note that Boronia and Meleleuca trails are often impassable due to water logging. A typical circuit, entering at the northern end od Boronia Trail, and walking south to the Aemula Trail, then east, and north to the Littoralis Trail, and return west to the start is about 3.8 km. Page 26 South Stradbroke Island Page 27 Surfers Paradise hi-rise 12 km south The cover photograph of this magazine is Surfers Paradise hi-rise towers, seen from the ocean beach at North Currigee. . The Guidebook entry for The Broadwater makes some mention of North Currigee, but those details are more concerned with getting there, than with what is there. Whether your visit is for a 2 hours, or an overnight stay, the 30 minute paddle from Paradise Point (use your street directory) across the Broadwater is amply rewarded. the beach north from North Currigee Page 28 Above: the track from North Curragee to the ocean beach Above: map, North Curragee Page 29 early morning morning, looking to the mainland, from North Currigee Page 30 The wreck of the Gerd Heye GERD HEYE: BARQUE, WRECKED 16th JULY, 1889. extracted from: Early Moreton Bay by Thomas Welsby, 1907. with thanks to Peter Ludlow http://www.moretonbayhistory.com/ The year 1889 saw trouble on the Australian coast amongst vessels that go down to the sea, the whole of the eastern side of Australia suffering more or less by loss of ships and lives. On the 17th July no less than five vessels were driven ashore at Byron Bay during a heavy easterly gale, accompanied by heavy rain, which had lasted for days, but no lives were lost on that occasion. Floods were in and around Brisbane, doing immense damage; swollen rivers and creeks were reported from the country, east and west. The suburbs and the outer farming districts were under water, crops damaged and destroyed, no hope of the farmer to come out on the solvent side of business-at least so it seemed. There was no thought of that dreadful 1893 visitation, for if they could only have known what was still before them, how their hearts would have remained callous and indifferent. I remember well the Monday of the 15th July, having occasion to be in town until about ten in the evening. The rain was coming down in torrents and the wind howled and shrieked at street comers, and in by-ways, uninviting to anyone, compelling the compulsory outdoor individual to seek shelter as speedily as possible. The heavy clouds overhead were traveling at a great pace, with here and there patches of blue. Scores of sea birds, chiefly the pretty white gull, were hovering over buildings, driven upon high roofs, crying out in melancholy at their distress. I saw one timid, driven from home, bird blown round the corner of Edward Street, thrown against the wires, and fall to the ground. Over the buildings about, the cry of the birds was incessant, and when my residence at New Farm was reached, still the same troubled cry could be heard. On the flats the lower parts were covered by water. Here numbers more of the little creatures were camped -not in peace- for there was no shelter, and the rain and the wind kept them on the constant move and wail. “It’s a wild night down the bay:’ I remarked when I got indoors. “How I would like to be on Point Lookout watching the tumbling waters break over Flat Rock, and come with all their force on the rocks ashore:’ During the week the wind and the Page 31 at Sandgate; the schooner “Sovereign” was blown from her anchorage near Bulwer over the Venus Banks, and lucky it was for that schooner that a shipwreck symbol steamer was able to get out to her during a lull, or there would have been one more wreck to chronicle. The weather at Cape Moreton was extremely bad, and for days outwardgoing craft were forced to anchor at Bulwer. On the 18th July, late in the evening, a telegraph message came through from Cloherty at the South Passage to the following reading. “German barque ‘Gerd Heye,’ Captain Ladewigs, bound from Rockhampton to South Sea Islands in ballast, went ashore on outer beach near Sand Hills, during easterly gales. All hands saved. Ship is high up on beach. Found her at dark to-night.” So now the story is told. The “Gerd Heye” was a wooden vessel, measuring 140 feet in length, by 30 feet beam, and 17 feet 10 inches depth of hold. She was built under the supervision of Captain Ladewigs at the yards of Herr Hageus at Elsfleth on Wesser, and launched in 1881. She was owned by one, Adolph Schiff of the same place, and was reclassed and recoppered in London in December, 1888. She had capacity for 850 tons of dead weight carrying this weight on a draft of 17 feet 8 inches. She had been chartered by Walter Reid & Co. of Rockhampton, to load with copra for Europe at two collecting stations in the Friendly Islands, and had left Rockhampton on the 13th July. She was perfectly sound, and was well found in every respect. Having been chartered to proceed in ballast to Apia, Samoa, and thence to other stations in the Friendly Islands to load copra for the Continent, she cleared Keppel Bay at 6 o’clock on the morning of Saturday, the 13th July, going out with a fair wind, and passing the North Reef light at 7 o’clock the same evening, the wind being then from the northward, and the weather fine and clear. The northerly wind was carried for about 40 miles and was followed by a light variable wind and calm, which continued all day on Sunday. On Monday the wind came away from south-south-east and the vessel stood out a little to the seaward. That evening the wind veered to the north-east and a heavy soaking Two hours later the wind became so strong that it was found necessary to take in all the small sails. Soon afterwards orders were given to take in the upper top sail and jib, and also the fore sail, leaving the ship under lower top sails, fore top mast, stay sail, and mizzen stay sail. The wind continued to blow with increased force, and heavy and incessant rain fell for two days. On Tuesday it was blowing a terrific gale from the eastward, and it was found necessary to take in all the canvas, but the vessel would not lay to owing to the strong current. In order therefore to keep her to the wind, the expedient of spreading canvas in the mizzen rigging was tried. This being found insufficient, a reefed mizzen top sail was set, but an hour later the sail, although quite new, was tom into shreds. The sea was running very high and the vessel laboured to an alarming extent. The pumps were sounded and it was found the ship was perfectly tight, not having made any water. About 10.30 p.m. on Tuesday the revolving light at Cape Moreton was sighted, being distinctly seen for every two minutes. The Captain ascertained that it appeared northwest, but could not determine the distance. It was still raining heavily, and blowing with the force of a hurricane from the eastward, causing a terrific sea, the vessel being completely enveloped in spray. As soon as the revolving light was sighted, soundings were taken, but the lead did not touch bottom. The lower top sails, fore top mast stay sail, and jib, and main top-mast stay sail were then set so as to try and weather the shore. It was found however, on taking bearings and soundings that the vessel had been carried closer into the land by the strong current setting to the south-west, than the master had been aware of. Almost immediately afterwards the high land on Moreton Island was distinctly visible in the darkness, and the Captain saw that in a very short time his vessel would be among the breakers. He then called all hands aft on the poop, explained the situation, and instructed all to be in readiness to leave the ship at a moment’s notice. There was not the slightest manifestation of panic among the crew and the Captain found no difficulty Page 32 in preserving discipline under these trying circumstances. Scarcely had the warning left the Captain’s lips, when the first breaker came over the doomed vessel. The Captain immediately ordered the man at the wheel to put the helm hard up, so as to bring the vessel on to the beach. The order was promptly obeyed and the ship fell off at once, the breakers coming over her side. After the third sea had come over her, she struck heavily on the sandy beach, a very few minutes having elapsed from the time the helm was put hard up until the vessel struck. As soon as she got broadside on, the Captain ordered the jib to be taken in so as to get her side to the sea. This having been done, he ordered the life boat to be got out. This was accomplished in a very brief space of time, and seven men jumped into it. The Captain then ordered the chief officer to go in with them, which he did. A line was made fast to the boat and secured on board, so that the boat on reaching the shore could be pulled back to the ship. It reached the beach in safety, but unfortunately, when the men jumped out, it capsized and filled. It was hauled back in this condition, but when it reached the ship’s side it was caught by the breakers, and the line parting, it was carried away. rain was descending in torrents, yet they had to remain on the beach without the slightest shelter until daylight. As soon as it was light the captain and one of the sailors went on board, by the same means as they reached the shore, for the purpose of getting some provisions if possible. In this they succeeded. They were also fortunate enough to get some rain water about half a mile from where they landed. In getting the provisions ashore some of the things were damaged by salt water. A number of sails were also procured, and with these a tent was constructed under shelter of which the day was passed. Next morning, the stranded vessel was again boarded and more provisions were obtained, sufficient to last the company for a fortnight. A few pots and pans were also procured, so that the shipwrecked people were able to enjoy the luxury of hot coffee and tea. On Wednesday the captain sent the mate and two men in different directions to search for inhabitants, but they returned weary and footsore without being able to find any A lucky circumstance, however, led to the discovery of the shipwrecked people. The master and three men were then left on the ship; they were unable to put out another boat, but decided to try and get a hawser ashore by means of a heaving line. After about 20 ineffectual attempts to throw the line ashore it was eventually secured by one of the sailors, who had waded up to his chest to get hold of it. After the hawser had been secured with so much difficulty, it was found to be too short to reach the closest tree. Another hawser was soon fixed on to the other one, and being secured to a tree, was pulled taut on board the ship. A boatswain’s chair was then brought into requisition, and all got ashore in safety, the three men first, the captain being the last to leave. It was about 3 a.m. on Wednesday when the Captain set foot on land. The condition of the Captain and crew, although they had the consolation of knowing they were safe, was now a most unenviable one. They were drenched to the skin and completely exhausted. The gale was still raging with unabated fury and Page 33 The officer in charge of the telegraph station at the South Passage was out repairing the telegraph line and the horse, with his saddle and bridle on, had strayed away and found its way to the camp. The sailors caught it, and very soon the officer searching for the animal came in view. He was soon made acquainted with the facts of the disaster. He returned to his station and wired particulars to Brisbane, and the Government steamer “Laura” was dispatched to the assistance of the “Gerd Heye’s” crew. To reach the telegraph station at the South Passage, a distance of about eight miles had to be traversed, and the sailors were so fagged that it was decided that they should remain where they were, having good shelter and plenty of provisions, until they were better able to walk the distance and bring their belongings with them. The captain wishing to arrange matters with the German Consul walked to the station and joined the “Laura,” which was waiting close to it. It will be remembered that the barque went ashore on the night of Tuesday, the 16th July, and it was only on the Thursday evening the 18th, that the news was sent to Brisbane, the wire having already been quoted. For almost three days the shipwrecked men had camped on Moreton Island, within say eight miles or less of the South Passage lighthouse, and believing themselves to be castaways until they were rescued by discovery. Some of the crew had been dispatched on a search for inhabitants, having failed on account, probably of inability to do the necessary walking. Had they crossed the sand hills, to the Bay side, they would then have been almost equidistant from the South Passage and Tangalooma, but the report of their search does not say of the direction they did take. In June of 1907 I happened to call in at Cloherty’s, at the South Passage, and interviewed friend William of that ilk, and learnt a few more particulars. The heavy winds had caused a break in the line between the Pilot Station and South Passage, and the station master must needs attend to his duty. So on the Thursday he saddled his Rozinante and came upon the break of the wire near the lower sand hill, and after repairing made a billy of tea, for it was midday. Having refreshed himself he looked around for his horse, found it gone, so tracked the hoof prints across the lower side of the hill until he came to the outer beach, and found the animal in the hands of the sailors. A conversation was managed between both parties, and the captain alone came on with Cloherty. The vessel was stem on to the beach, or to put it plainer, she lay with her bow pointing to the ocean, all apparently being in readiness for her to be towed off. And so she might have been had prompt assistance been rendered. For some days the sailors remained there, but they were eventually brought to Brisbane. There was no immediate necessity, so it would appear, for any customs individuals to visit the wreck, for she had been sent to sea only in ballast, and the occasion was not one of Scottish Prince or Cambus Wallace. The weather had completely gone down before the barque was visited on behalf of the Customs authorities. In fact the Wednesday saw the cessation of the gales, for the captain on venturing back by the hawser, found the seas considerably gone down, and hardly any water in the boat at all. Still the bumping on the sand the continuous working caused by the rollers assisted by the heavy ballast right along her skin, were doing no good, and on the night of the 17th the crash was heard ashore that told of something gone. Thursday morning showed that her mainmast was gone, taking with it the mizzen topmast. The vessel was settling in the sand, and a week later her back was broken. On the Monday the official report from South was wired through as follows: “Visited wreck of ‘Gerd Heye’ last night. Lays about six miles north from South Passage, with her back broken, and mainmast and mizzen top mast gone. Don’t think she can be got off.” No inquiry was held regarding the wreck of the “Gerd Heye,” so I have been informed. It is needless for me to state again my opinion how she might have been taken off from amongst the surf, nor shall I mention again the cruel manner in which the salvage purchasers treated her after they took almost all things movable. For many a long day she lay in position, gradually sinking into the sand. My last view was in 1896, when the hull could be seen at low water clearly defined, all top gear and ropes having long been swept away by the ever continuous action of the breakers. Page 34 wrecked on Shark Spit On the west coast of Moreton Island, eleven kilometres south of the artificial reef wrecks at Tangalooma, dating from 1963, are two far older, rusting hulls. These are relics of the age of steam, they are the Fairlight, and the Normanby. The Fairlight was a paddlesteamer,the early version of steam ships that had a revolving paddlewheel midships, rather than a propellor at the stern. The paddlewheel steamer had a hull of iron and was launched in 1878. Built by Thomas Wingate and Company at Whiteinch, Scotland, she had a passenger capacity of 950, speed of 15 knots, gross tonnage 315 tons. She was 171.4 feet long, 22.2 wide, and drew 10.15 feet. Fairlight came out to Australia sail-rigged, and joined the Brightside in providing a two boat service for the Port Jackson Steamboat Company. Fairlight was the first Manly ferry to introduce luxury to the travelling public. She offered cushioned seats, closed in salons and carpeted floors. In 1914 she was sold to Cleghorn, Hopkins and Co. in Brisbane and used as a floating coal bunker, eventually being abandoned in 1930 on Shark Spit, Moreton Island. The northern rusty hulk is the Fairlight, the smaller wreck, 150 metres south along the beach, is the Normanby. Because of her role as a passenger ferry on Sydney harbour, we have a photograph of the Fairlight, kindly provided by to us by Lance, administrator at the website Ferries of Sydney. The Normanby was a smaller ship, an iron hulled screw steamer of 98 tons and 97.4 feet long. Her last owners were also Cleghorn Hopkins and Co. of Brisbane; she was ‘broken up’ in 1927, and abandoned at Shark Spit in 1930. This vessel was employed in coastal trade in the 1880’s, carrying rum produced by Normanby Rum Distillery, Strathpine to Brisbane. The Normanby was commissioned by distillery owner Owen Gardner in 1884, and navigated the South Pine River on the high tide to deliver molasses from mills on the Logan, Albert and Coomera Rivers and take away the rum. By 1889, the Distillery was producing between 300 and 400 gallons (1,300 and 1,800 litres) of rum each week. Page 35 The boiler of the Fairlight is going to be the last piece to rust away. (photo above). At low tide the wreck is high and dry. One hundred and fifty metres away, visible upper left, is the wreck of the Normanby. The photograph below is of the Fairlight on Sydney Harbour. Shark Spit appears at low tide sand as the sandbank which runs out to sea for a kilometre, appears under shallow water. If you are walking up to the wrecks from The Big Sandhill, it is 3 kilometres. It is possible to make that walk at any stage of the tide, but the walk down from Tangalooma is not possible for two hours before or after the top of the tide, unless you don’t mind wading. The 4WD explorer must limit their venturing here to the bottom half of the tides. It is not so much the amount the water rises up the beach, rather the fallen trees that block high tide passage. Page 36 Low tide, Normanby up closer, the wreck of the Fairlight in the distance Below: satellite view of the Fairlight and Normanby Page 37 Big Sandhills Moreton Is. Page 38 Access to the Big Sandhills on the west coast, for walkers, is limited to half tide or lower, as high tide blocks the beach “road.” Sea kayakers have a 14 kilometres paddle south from “The wrecks” at Tangalooma, or 10 kilometres north from Kooringal at the island’s southern tip. At low tide there is a kilometre wide beach to the water. The entry marker to the Big Sandhills, is where the dunes break through the line of vegetation above the beach, and reach to the high tide level. There is a water pump 50 metres north of the entry to the dunes; but the water is low quality, needing boiling and filtering. Camping sites are north and south of the water point, under the trees, with views across the water. The Big Sandhills almost reach from coast to coast across the island. There is a walking track that makes it possible to walk west to east, but although it is shown on some National Parks maps, it is not signposted at either end, nor is it easy to find. slide down the steep dune face or look for wind sculptures in the sand blue seas and white sand campsite under the trees next to the water point high tide blocks travel. Little Sandhills - 3 kms Page 39 The trail above, in red, shows the way across the island. There is no marked trail across the sand dunes as you move East. The North South dark line, 400 metres inland from the western bay side, is the major dune crest line, a geographical feature that does not vary despite storms. East of that crest line, the land slopes down towards the east, and the trail follows the natural drainage features, that is, a sandy creek bed in the dune. The entry into the eastern treeline was made by small earthmoving machinery, and the track is clear, level and wide, with sawn timber to the sides. Do not try to proceed east unless you are on the trail. The trail emerges at a small sand blow behind the eastern ocean beach; a small lagoon is usually present immediately south. A faint vehicle path leads down to the beach across the open foredunes. That path is visible in the image, right, as the line exiting lower right from the centre sandblow. GPS bearings for the trail exiting the Big Sandhills dunes into the eastern treeline, are 27˚17’07.96 S, 153˚ 24’ 55.69 E. The trail entry west from the beach, into the treeline, is at 27˚17’10.14 S, 153’25’05.91 E. Page 40 LITTLE SANDHILLS MORETON ISLAND The Little Sandhills on Moreton are two kilometres wide, coast to coast, and consist of three dune lines that get higher towards the eastern ocean side. The above photograph is the second dune going east, and below, the third dune. A line of vegetation grows behind each dune. Walkers usually cross through breaks in the vegetation on the northern end of each dune, which also puts the walker on the highest point of each dune, for the view. The lower sandy area on the following page is the Little Sandhills, and the vegetation visible in the photographs on this page, is the dark line in the lee of each dune in the satellite photograph. Page 41 Big Sandhills Little Sandhills Crab Island Page 42 Maroochy River and Mt Ninderry The new pontoon and Lake Dunethin Maroochy River Canoe Trail The Maroochy River canoe trail is 28 kilometres in length, and gives the canoe paddler a guide to exploring the river. A launching pontoon was opened in August 2010 on Lake Dunethin, which is about 8 kilometres downriver from the start of the trail. The pontoon was built by Pacific Pier and Pontoon who have made available the photographs on this page. . The trail has its own website page, and on that page is a link to a downloadable pdf map (1.9Mb) of the trail and the river. The map is highly recommended as it includes access launch points, and a table showing river distances, dividing the 28 k trail into canoeable sections. . Choose an early morning on a day the tide will assist you, and try a paddle on the river. Page 43