speake-marin catalog 2013
Transcription
speake-marin catalog 2013
In 2006 I was exhibiting alongside independent watchmakers Vianney Halter and Philippe Dufour. We were in the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur and talking to a group of collectors. Philippe addressed the group, asking what it was that made us different from the large brands established by names like Patek, Philippe, Piguet, Vacheron and Constantin. The audience waited patiently for Philippe to reply. He sucked on his iconic pipe and said quite simply, ‘they’re dead... and we’re alive’. Independent watchmaking today is a representation of living watchmakers through the watches they make. A new era of horology has begun. Peter Speake-Marin SPEAKE-MARIN 5 CONTENTS 8 - 13 Peter Speake-Marin 14 - 19 Renaissance 22 - 27 Classic HMS 28 - 33 Resilience 34 - 39 Serpent 40 - 43 Spirit 44 - 49 Marin 50 - 55 Unique Art Pieces 56 Contacts & Credits SPEAKE-MARIN 7 Peter SPEAKE-MARIN This catalogue marks a new period in my development as a watchmaker. It pulls from the last 10 years of my work the elements of my watches that have been the most appreciated by collectors around the world, and presents them in a fresh new light. 8 SPEAKE-MARIN 9 My journey as a watchmaker began in 1985 when, as a 17-year-old, I joined my horology course late at London’s Hackney Technical College. My constant search for new professional challenges has resulted in a diverse and colourful career. This has spanned after-sales service and restoration, through to construction and development of modern complications. I have worked with some of the leading names in modern watchmaking; my journey so far has been extraordinary. As a young watchmaker I dreamed of travelling the world. This I have now done, meeting collectors of all nationalities: amazing individuals I have been fortunate to encounter. Today as I enter a new era in my career, there is only one road left for me to explore: that of creativity, a road with a learning curve that has no end. 10 SPEAKE-MARIN The Foundation Pocket Watch SPEAKE-MARIN 11 The Foundation Pocket Watch ZDV WKH ĺUVW ZDWFK , PDGH 7KLV ZDWFK ZDV WKH FDWDO\VW IRU WKH collections that followed and KHOSHG GHĺQH WKH 6SHDNH0DULQ VW\OH DQG SKLORVRSK\ WR PDNH ZDWFKHV WKDW SHUVRQLI\ ORQJHYLW\ LQERWKIXQFWLRQDQGDHVWKHWLFV 7KH GHVLJQ RI WKH RULJLQDO FDJH EULGJH WKDW KDV EHFRPH WKH FRPSDQ\ ORJR ZDV LQVSLUHG E\ D ZDWFKPDNHUpV WRSSLQJ WRRO ,PDJH VKRZQ ULJKW 7KLV PDFKLQHZDVERWKWKHLQVSLUDWLRQ IRUWKHFDJHGHVLJQDQGZDVXVHG LQWKHPDNLQJRIWKHZDWFK 7KH SHULRG RI P\ SURIHV VLRQDO OLIH WKDW UHPDLQV WKH PRVW LQĻXHQWLDO DQG PDUNV P\ ZRUN WRGD\ DQG LQWR WKH IXWXUH ZDV WKH \HDUV , VSHQW LQ /RQGRQpV 3LFFDGLOO\ UHVWRULQJ DQWLTXH DQG YLQWDJHZDWFKHV 7KLVLVWKHUHDVRQZK\P\FDVHLV WRGD\FDOOHGo7KH3LFFDGLOO\pZK\ P\ VW\OH \HW FRQWHPSRUDU\ LV FODVVLFDO DQG LV DOZD\V LGHQWLĺHG DVEHLQJERWK6SHDNH0DULQDQG EHLQJ%ULWLVKLQGHVLJQ 12 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 13 RENAISSANCE Minute repeater, Tourbillon In Renaissance, many of the quintessential Speake-Marin qualities are present - elements that go back to WKH )RXQGDWLRQ :DWFK WKH YHU\ ÀUVW timepiece to bear the Speake-Marin name. Renaissance features the iconic Piccadilly case; characteristic pleated crown; signature Foundation hands; and intricate hand-engraving. As with the Foundation Watch and many subsequent models, the signature Speake-Marin topping-tool motif is present, here in the form of the tourbillon cage. ‘This timepiece represents a fresh start in my work, which is why I named it “Renaissance”. I have been on a continual journey of discovery and education that has encompassed my time in antique restoration, working on collaborative projects with other brands, and making my own watches in Switzerland. I wanted to create a timepiece that is, in a sense, a re-invention of my work; one that brings much of my previous work 14 together in one watch. This watch UHÁHFWV P\ SDVW DQG WKRVH HOHPHQWV that make Speake-Marin what it is, that make me who I am. At the same time it represents a step forward in the evolution of my craft.’ Minute Repeater The minute repeater - activated by a slider on the case band at 9 o’clock - chimes the hours, the quarter-hours and minutes after the quarter-hours; so enabling the ‘reading’ of the time Tourbillon without having to look at the dial. The Renaissance minute repeater The Renaissance movement was features an all-or-nothing mechanism developed to Speake-Marin’s found on the highest-quality minute VSHFLÀFDWLRQV E\ /D )DEULTXH GX repeaters. Temps in Geneva. The 60-second It avoids the incorrect time tourbillon at 5 o’clock maximises being chimed, if the slide is timekeeping precision, by averaging incompletely activated. The the effects of positional variations regularity of the chimes is caused by gravity. The tourbillon silently and precisely controlled by a provides aesthetical as well as centrifugal inertia regulator. This WHFKQLFDO EHQHÀWV LW URWDWHV can also be appreciated through the catching the light and the eye thanks display back, thanks to its large WRWKHÀQHÀQLVKLQJRILWVWRSSLQJWRRO transparent sapphire bearing. It shaped cage, with a heat-blued hand also reveals the repeater hammers indicating seconds. Time keeping DQG JRQJ ZLWK ¶/RQGRQ*HQHYD· precision is also ensured thanks engraved on the repeater mainspring to an isochronism improving free- bridge. The straight drum-like sides sprung balance, and the lightweight, of the Piccadilly case and the open HQHUJ\HIÀFLHQWVLOLFRQHVFDSHZKHHO GLDODFWDVWKHSHUIHFWDPSOLÀHUIRUWKH and anchor. crystalline chimes. SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 15 3DBGMHB@K2ODBHkB@SHNMR "@RD 'LPHQVLRQV PP [ PP _ SLHFH FDVH N UHG JROG _ 7ZRSRVLWLRQ 6SHDNH0DULQ FURZQ 0LQXWH UHSHDWHU VOLGHU RQ FDVH EDQG DW RpFORFN 6DSSKLUH FU\VWDO WUHDWHG ZLWK DQWLUHĻHFWLYH FRDWLQJ :DWHU UHVLVWDQFH DWPRVSKHUHVPp ,NUDLDMS 'LPHQVLRQV 'LVSOD\EDFN PP [ PP _ 3RZHU UH VHUYH KRXUV _ -HZHOV #H@K@MC'@MCR: 1XPEHU RI FRPSRQHQWV +DQGDQJOHGDQG 6SHDNH0DULQ VLJQDWXUH PRWLI FLUFXODUJUDLQHG VNHOHWRQ WRSSLQJWRRO GHVLJQ WRXUELOORQ GLDO )RXQGDWLRQVW\OH FDJH _ 7RXUELOORQ FDJH PP EOXHGVWHHOKDQGV )UHHVSUXQJ EDODQFH _ %DODQFH UHTXHQF\YSK+] %DODQFHGLDPHWHUPPPP ZLWKUHJXODWLQJVFUHZV_%DODQFH LQHUWLDPJFP_6LOLFRQDQFKRU DQG HVFDSH ZKHHO _ 7ZRKDP PHU PLQXWH UHSHDWHU IHDWXULQJ DOORUQRWKLQJ PHFKDQLVP 6SHDNH0DULQEULGJHGHVLJQDQG KDQGĺQLVKHG_8QLTXH KDQGHQJUDYHGPRWLIRQEDFN SODWHLQFOXGLQJWKHZRUGV o6SHDNH0DULQ 3LHFH 8QLTXH *UDYÆH0DLQp %TMBSHNMR @MC ED@STQDR +RXUV 0LQXWHV DQG VPDOO 6HFRQGV RQ WRXUELOORQFDJH_0LQXWHUHSHDWHU ZLWKDQDOORUQRWKLQJPHFKDQLVP DQG FHQWULIXJDO LQHUWLD UHJXODWRU VHFRQGWRXUELOORQ_(DFK PRYHPHQWLVKDQGHQJUDYHGZLWK DXQLTXHPRWLI 16 17 18 SPEAKE-MARIN 19 THE PICCADILLY COLLECTION 20 21 Classic HMS The Classic HMS is a re-interpretation from the design of the Foundation watch (shown on page 33). The dial is on two levels: the design of the silvered version is related directly to that of the pocket watch and comes to life when the light FDWFKHV WKH GLIIHUHQW ÀQLVKHV Thewhite lacquered version is of the same construction KRZHYHUSROLVKHGDQGZKLWHLQÀQLVK 3DBGMHB@K2ODBHkB@SHNMR %TMBSHNMR +RXUV 0LQXWHV DQG 6HFRQGV _ 0RYHPHQW &D OLEUH (URV DXWRPDWLFZLQGLQJ PHFKDQLFDO PRYHPHQW 'LPHQ VLRQVPP[PP_3RZHU UHVHUYH KRXUV _ -HZHOV _ 7ZLQ EDUHOV _ )UHTXHQF\ YSK+] _ 6SHDNH0DULQ VLJQDWXUH oWRSSLQJ WRROp P\VWHU\ URWRU _ )HDWXUHV KDQGĺQLVKHG EULGJHVDQGURWRU "@RD SLHFH FDVH PP DQG PP DYDLODEOH LQ VWDLQOHVV VWHHORU.1UHGJROG+HLJKW PP:DWHUUHVLVWDQWWRDWPRV SKHUHV_&RPSUHVVLRQFDVHEDFN 6DSSKLUHFU\VWDOVZLWKPXOWLOD\HU DQWLUHĻHFWLYHFRDWLQJV #H@K @MC '@MCR 'XDOOD\HUHG GLDOHLWKHUVLOYHUHGKDQGĺQLVKHG RUZKLWHODFTXHUHG_6LOYHUHGGLDO 8SSHUOHYHO RXWHU ULQJ FLUFX ODU JUDLQHG E\ KDQG ORZHUOHYHO FHQWUH ZLWK ĺQH VSLUDO JXLOORFKH )RXQGDWLRQKDQGVLQEOXHGVWHHO 22 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 23 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP 24 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP 25 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP 26 SPEAKE-MARIN 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP SPEAKE-MARIN 27 RESILIENCE I designed the Resilience at the same time as the Classic HMS in 2002. It has an enamel dial, as did the early pocket watches I restored in London’s Piccadilly many years ago. 7KLVSHULRGZDVDJUHDWLQÁXHQFHRQ me, and an even greater inspiration. The Resilience’s design is as timeless as the enamel from which it is made. It has stood the test of time and fashion: the dials will retain their elegance, the watch its handsome nature for many years to come due to its construction, its design and its resilience. 3DBGMHB@K2ODBHkB@SHNMR %TMBSHNMR +RXUV 0LQXWHV DQG 6HFRQGV _ 0RYHPHQW &D OLEUH (URV DXWRPDWLFZLQGLQJ PHFKDQLFDO PRYHPHQW 'LPHQ VLRQV PP [ PP 3RZHU UHVHUYH KRXUV -HZHOV _ 7ZLQ EDUUHOV )UHTXHQF\ YSK+] 6SHDNH0DULQ VLJQDWXUH oWRSSLQJ WRROp P\VWHU\ URWRU _ )HDWXUHV KDQGĺQLVKHGEULGJHVDQGURWRU "@RD SLHFH FDVH PP DQG PPDYDLODEOHLQVWDLQOHVVVWHHO RU.1UHGJROG+HLJKWPP :DWHUUHVLVWDQWWRDWPRVSKHUHV &RPSUHVVLRQ FDVH EDFN _ 6DS SKLUH FU\VWDOV ZLWK PXOWLOD\HU DQWLUHĻHFWLYHFRDWLQJV #H@K@MC'@MCR+DUGĺUHG HQDPHO _ )RXQGDWLRQ KDQGV LQ EOXHGVWHHO 28 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 29 30 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 31 32 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 33 SERPENT The original Serpent, which I GHVLJQHG LQ ZDV P\ ÀUVW calendar watch. It quickly became one of the most popular of my watches. The idea is simple and dates back well over a century to early pocket watches and clocks, which used a curved hand to differentiate between the date and time indicators. 3DBGMHB@K2ODBHkB@SHNMR %TMBSHNMR +RXUV 0L QXWHV 6HFRQGV ZLWK 'DWH _ 0RYHPHQW &DOLEUH (URV DXWRPDWLFZLQGLQJ PHFKDQLFDO PRYHPHQW'LPHQVLRQVPP [ PP _ 3RZHU UHVHUYH KRXUV _ -HZHOV _ 7ZLQ EDU UHOV )UHTXHQF\ YSK+] 6SHDNH0DULQ VLJQDWXUH oWRSSLQJ WRROp P\VWHU\ URWRU _ )HDWXUHV KDQGĺQLVKHG EULGJHV DQG URWRU "@RD SLHFH FDVH PP DQG PPDYDLODEOHLQVWDLQOHVVVWHHO RU.1UHGJROG+HLJKWPP :DWHUUHVLVWDQWWRDWPRVSKHUHV &RPSUHVVLRQ FDVH EDFN _ 6DS SKLUH FU\VWDOV ZLWK PXOWLOD\HU DQWLUHĻHFWLYHFRDWLQJV #H@K @MC '@MCR 'XDO OD\HUHG GLDOHLWKHUVLOYHUHGKDQGĺQLVKHG RU ZKLWHODFTXHUHG 7KH FDOHQ GDULVVKRZQRQWKHORZHULQVLGH VHFWLRQDQGWKH5RPDQQXPHUDOV RQ WKH RXWHU VHFWLRQ UHSUHVHQW WKH KRXUV 6LOYHUHG GLDO 8SSHU OHYHO RXWHU ULQJ FLUFXODU JUDLQHG E\ KDQG ORZHUOHYHO FHQWUH ZLWK ĺQH VSLUDO JXLOORFKH )RXQGDWLRQ KDQGVLQEOXHGVWHHO 34 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 35 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP 36 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP 37 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP 3,&_µPP 38 SPEAKE-MARIN 3,&_µPP SPEAKE-MARIN 39 Fight, Love & Persevere 40 41 SPIRIT (Mk2) The Spirit Pioneer is one of my latest models. It drew to a FRQFOXVLRQ WKH ÀUVW VWHS LQ P\ development as watchmaker. I originally designed it in 2006 but did not realise the model until 2011. Engraved on the case back are the words ‘Fight, Love and Persevere’. To me, these words are a reminder that the human spirit has an ability to keep going regardless of the adversities that life presents; they are a reminder not to give up. 3DBGMHB@K2ODBHkB@SHNMR %TMBSHNMR +RXUV 0LQXWHV DQG 6HFRQGV _ 0RYHPHQW &DOLEUH 77 DXWRPDWLFZLQGLQJ PH FKDQLFDOPRYHPHQW'LPHQVLRQV PP [ PP _ 3RZHU UHVHUYHKRXUV_-HZHOV 7ZLQ EDUUHOV _ )UHTXHQF\ YSK+] "@RD SLHFH FDVH PP DYDLODEOH LQ VWDLQOHVV VWHHO +HLJKW PP _ :DWHUUHVLVWDQW WR DWPRVSKHUHVPp &RPSUHVVLRQ FDVH EDFN _ 6DS SKLUH FU\VWDO ZLWK PXOWLOD\HUHG DQWLUHĻHFWLYH FRDWLQJV _ o)LJKW /RYH 3HUVHYHUHp PRWWR HQJUD YHGRQWKHFDVHEDFN #H@K@MC'@MCR0DWWEODFNEDVH DOOZKLWHHOHPHQWVRQWKHGLDODUH PDGH LQ 6XSHU/XPL1RYD ERWK LQ ' UHOLHI DV ZHOO DV EHORZ WKH EODFN GLDO _ 6XUIDFH IRU WKH ĺQH GHWDLOVo)RXQGDWLRQpVW\OHFHQWUDO KRXUDQGPLQXWHKDQGVZLWKZKLWH ODFTXHU DQG KDQGDSSOLHG ZKLWH 6XSHU/XPL1RYD_&HQWUDOVHFRQG KDQGDOVRODFTXHUHGZKLWH 42 SPEAKE-MARIN 3,& SPEAKE-MARIN 43 MARIN The Marin collection is a highly specialised collection of watches, all containing the Speake-Marin in-house calibre SM2. Each Marin series is technically different and entirely original in construction. Every jewel, bridge, screw and part of the escapement, including the design of calibre in the SM2, is unique to this movement. It is entirely KDQGÀQLVKHG DQG DVVHPEOHG E\ hand. The goal when designing the SM2 was to emphasise the beauty of horology, by making each individual component a thingof beauty. 0DULQ0N 44 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 45 MARIN 1 Mk2 SM2a Calibre )UHTXHQF\ YK _ 3RZHU UHVHUYH KRXUV 1XPEHU RI MHZHOV _ 7RWDO QXPEHU RI FRPSRQHQWV _ &KURQRPH WHU EDODQFH 0DVVORWV %UHJXHW RYHUFRLO JU LQHUWLD PJ FP_%ULGJHVPDLQSODWH*HUPDQ VLOYHU_6KRFNSURWHFWLRQ,QFDEORF 0RYHPHQW DVVHPEOHG E\ KDQG $OO EULGJHV OHYHUV DQG PDLQSODWH KDQGĺQLVKHG ZLWK FLUFOLQJ VSRWWLQJDQGSROLVK_5RWRUZKHHO KDQGEHYHOOHGĻDWVXUIDFHPLUURU SROLVKHG_$OOSLYRWVEXUQLVKHG 46 SPEAKE-MARIN 47 Marin 2 Thalassa SM2m Calibre 48 SPEAKE-MARIN 49 UNIQUE Art Pieces Watchmaking in its soul is a craft and an art form. It goes beyond technical elements and micro mechanics; it is often the pursuit of mechanical perfection and creativity. During the history of horology we have used every conceivable tool and material to execute our mechanical creations. As with music and mathematics there is no limit, no end to what can be made and explored. In my own world I have worked with: enamel, precious metals, diverse stones from onyx to jadeite, hand engraving and sculpture, machine engraving, Japanese maki-e, and combinations of all the aforementioned. For every watch made, every idea executed, a dream is realised. 50 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 51 The images of the unique pieces I present here are just a glimpse of some of those I have been able to execute over recent years. These watches are made on request, as well as originating from my own imagination. 52 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 53 'RQJ6RQ %DVHGRQWKHVDFUHG9LHWQDPHVH 'RQJ6RQGUXP 0DGHLQNJROG 'UHDP7LPH +DQGHQJUDYHGNJROGGLDO VLOYHUSODWHGDQGR[LGL]HG 54 SPEAKE-MARIN SPEAKE-MARIN 55 &RQWDFWV 6SHDNH0DULQ6$&KHPLQHQ%DIID%XUVLQV6ZLW]HUODQG LQIR#VSHDNHPDULQFRP ZZZVSHDNHPDULQFRP &UHGLWV 3KRWRJUDSK\*X\/XFDVGH3HVORXDQ$WVX6KLPDGD0LQJ7KHLQ *UDSKLFGHVLJQ0\GHDUDJHQF\.DULP%DFKDU*LRQLEHN.XGDLEHUJHQ DOOULJKWVUHVHUYHG6SHDNH0DULQ6$ 56 SPEAKE-MARIN