Grenadines Air Alliance - Toni Mills Graphic Design

Transcription

Flight Schedule ............................... 2
Barbados ........................................ 4
Limegrove Lifestyle Centre ............ 5
St. Vincent ..................................... 7
Jazz on the Green ........................... 9
Bequia .......................................... 12
A Weekend in Paradise ................ 13
Celebrating New Years Eve
Bequia Style ................................. 17
Mustique ..................................... 22
Colin Tenant – A Reflection ........ 24
The Southern Grenadines ............ 27
Lion Fish ...................................... 28
Canouan ........................................ 30
Culinary Adventures
in the Caribbean .......................... 32
Mayreau ....................................... 34
Palm Island .................................. 36
All rights reserved © 2013. Reproduction in
whole or part of this publication without
written permission is strictly prohibited.
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure
correct information, the publishers cannot
be held responsible for any errors, omissions
or changes. The advertising content is the
sole responsibility of the advertiser and the
publishers accept no responsibility for any
statements or claims made therein.
The Grenadine Air Alliance Magazine 2013/14
is published on behalf of Trans Island Air,
SVG Air and Mustique Airways by:
West Indies Publishing Ltd.,
P.O. Box W883, St. John’s, Antigua,
Tel: (268) 461 0565
Email: [email protected]
Union Island ................................ 38
Petit St. Vincent ........................... 40
Cover Photo of
Bequia Beach Hotel
by Wilfred Dederer
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SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES
& BARBADOS EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 3RD, 2013 TO MARCH 8TH, 2014.
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BARBADOS
Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15
FROM: BARBADOS TO ST. VINCENT
FROM: BEQUIA TO BARBADOS
FROM: BARBADOS TO BEQUIA
FROM: MUSTIQUE TO BARBADOS
FROM: BARBADOS TO MUSTIQUE
FROM: CANOUAN TO BARBADOS
FROM BARBADOS TO CANOUAN
FROM : UNION ISLAND TO BARBADOS
FROM: BARBADOS TO UNION ISLAND
SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES
& BARBADOS EFFECTIVE MARCH 9TH, 2014 TO NOVEMBER 1ST, 2014
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FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BARBADOS
FROM: BARBADOS TO ST. VINCENT
FROM: BEQUIA TO BARBADOS
Daily Flt. #607 at 13:35*
FROM: BARBADOS TO BEQUIA
FROM: MUSTIQUE TO BARBADOS
FROM: BARBADOS TO MUSTIQUE
FROM: CANOUAN TO BARBADOS
FROM: BARBADOS TO CANOUAN
FROM: UNION ISLAND TO BARBADOS
FROM: BARBADOS TO UNION ISLAND
*Please note: These flights will NOT operate from September 1st, 2014 to
November 1st, 2014.
SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN MUSTIQUE AND
HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 29TH, 2013 TO APRIL 27TH, 2014
MUSTIQUE TO HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA
Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #905 at 13:30**
Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #907 at 17:30
HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA TO MUSTIQUE
Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #906 at 16:00
**Please note that due to daylight savings time in North America, Flight #905 departs
one hour earlier effective March 9th, 2014.
Flights subject to change.
DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINE ISLANDS 2013
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BEQUIA
Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15 ***
FROM : BEQUIA TO ST. VINCENT
Daily Flt: #614 at 17:30****
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO MUSTIQUE
Mon–Sat (except Public Holidays)
Flt. #131 at 07:30
Flt. #135 at 16:50
FROM: MUSTIQUE TO ST. VINCENT
Mon–Sat (except public holidays)
Flt. #311 Depart Mustique at 07:50
Flt #315 Depart Mustique at 16:30
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO CANOUAN
Mon.–Fri. Flt. #141 at 08:15
Daily Flt. #605 at 10:15***
FROM: CANOUAN TO ST. VINCENT
Mon.–Fri. Flt. #411 at 09:00
Daily Flt. #419 at 17:30****
Daily Flt. #616 at 17:30****
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO UNION ISLAND
Mon.–Fri. Flt. #151 at 08:15
Daily Flt. #605 at 10:15***
FROM: UNION ISLAND TO ST. VINCENT
Mon.–Fri. Flt. #511 at 08:45
Daily Flt. #519 at 17:30****
Daily Flt. #616 at 17:30****
***Please note these flights depart
15 minutes earlier effective March 9th, 2014 to
November 1st, 2014. Therefore the departure time will be 10:00.
****Please note these flights depart 30 minutes earlier effective March 9th, 2014 to
November 1st, 2014. Therefore the departure time will be 17:00.
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Barbados
Nick-named ‘Little England’, and
known affectionately by locals as
‘Bim’, the island of Barbados was first
settled in 1627, marking the start of
an uninterrupted period of British
rule that was to last for 339 years until
independence was granted in 1966.
It’s the easternmost of the Lesser
Antilles and lies around 100 miles
east of St. Vincent & the Grenadines –
but, unlike St. Vincent, it’s primarily
a low-lying island of coral-limestone
composition.
With a bustling international airport,
the island is easily accessed both from
Europe and North America and this, in
part, has resulted in a highly developed
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tourism infrastructure with many
world-class hotels, gourmet restaurants
and excellent duty-free shopping.
The south and west coasts boast
beautiful white sand beaches and the
calm, azure waters of the Caribbean.
The east coast offers rugged beauty
and great surfing from the tumbling
waves that roll in from the Atlantic.
With a multitude of leisure activities
available, it’s easy to see why Barbados
has become one of the Caribbean’s
top destinations – not only for tourists
but also for investors and retirees. In
addition to snorkelling, diving and
sailing, visitors can explore wild life
reserves, play a round of golf, take a
helicopter ride, explore caves, enjoy the
annual Crop Over festival and finish
up the day by experiencing some of the
festive nightlife.
Limegrove Lifestyle Centre
Beyond retail therapy,
Limegrove brings zest to luxury living.
Written by Sarah Venable, Photos by Limegrove Lifestyle Centre
W
ith nearly 85,000 feet of sales
space stacked in stunning
architecture, Limegrove is a
retail wonderland, and more. It’s the
newest addition to Holetown, on the
rim of Barbados’ platinum coast, a place
that already tempts visitors with assorted
allures. Beach life, dining diversity, and
shopping alternatives from groceries to
gemstones – all within walking distance.
“Build it and they will come,” was the
developer Paul Altman’s guiding belief.
He was right. It’s as if upscale brands were
all waiting for a venue like this. Louis
Vuitton certainly was; this jewel of the jet
set required the proper setting. Now that
Limegrove exists, Cartier, Dior, Gucci and
others have slid into place like pearls on a
string.
Designed as a series of environments
flowing
between
three
distinctive
courtyards, Limegrove is cosmopolitan
and exciting yet peaceful. There’s always
somewhere to sit, hook up to wi-fi, or
listen to the classical music floating
down from baby grand, player pianos. In
one courtyard, thick with food options,
a three-storey water wall descends into
a fountained pool. Embraced by cool
colonnades, another features stately
palms. The third attracts action with its
lively bar scene.
Global luxury brands are just steps away
from local boutiques like Kartusche and
Gatsby’s. Food options are international
– even within the venues. For example,
Singapura, the Asian food specialist, bows
to Bajan tradition by offering pudding
and souse on Saturdays.
And the shopping! The long list
includes skincare, leather goods, clothing
and accessories, watches, jewellery,
greeting cards, designer eyewear, home
decor, kitchenware, cigars, cosmetics,
electronics, shoes to die for, luxury
lingerie, and even silk travel pillows.
As Limegrove’s name suggests, it’s also
a place to “…lime”. For starters, you can
eat your way around the globe in the cafes
–indoors or out, or simply join a friend for
smoothies or pastry and cappuccino.
You can go to the cinema, where samosas, hummus, cheese plates, beer and wine
are among the snack options. Order on
entering and it’s delivered to your big,
comfy seat – which might be a plump
chaise longue down front.
You can attend an art opening in the
snazzy gallery upstairs, or a fashion show,
or charity events at the elegant rooftop
bar where the afterparty for Rihanna’s
“Loud” concert was held.
Couples can enjoy separate pursuits.
While the ladies get groomed, the men
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can retreat to La Casa del Habano, a cigar
lounge that caters to both the connoisseur
and the curious.
Whatever your gender, you could
spend some time getting pampered. To
get waxed or relaxed, correct skin problems, or just feel good, Glo Spa is the place
to escape.
What to do with the children? Treat
them to a session at Playcreation, where
toys, creative activities, and a playground
keep them happily occupied. A nanny
service is also offered. On Saturday afternoons, take them along to Limebar
where they offer tea for mums and games
for kids.
Limebar features fine mixologists, an
appealing multi-culti menu, and a lively
rota of evening events ranging from
live listening or dancing DJ music to a
monthly book and poetry night.
Bonus niceness: Overall, Limegrove
has the friendliest, most well-spoken and
best-informed salespeople in Barbados.
And if you love it here, you can move
in! Residences flank the rear of the ten-acre
plot. See it all at www.limegrove.com. ■
6
St. Vincent
The largest island in the country of
St. Vincent & the Grenadines – ‘mainland’ St. Vincent – is approximately
21 miles long and 11 miles wide. Its
neighbours are St. Lucia to the north
and Grenada to the south.
The island does not have mega-resorts,
wild night life or shopping malls, but
what it does offer is some of the finest
natural beauty to be found anywhere
in the Eastern Caribbean – it’s an ecotourist’s paradise.
In the north is a semi-active 4,048-foot
volcano, La Soufrière, up which more
energetic visitors can hike and enjoy
unparalleled views. The less adventurous
may choose to visit the oldest botanical
gardens in the western hemisphere, on
the outskirts of the capital, Kingstown.
Here you’ll find a famous breadfruit tree,
a direct descendant of the ones brought
from Tahiti by Captain Bligh of ‘Mutiny
on the Bounty’ fame.
The lush volcanic soil is perfect for
agriculture and St. Vincent produces an
abundance of fruit and vegetables which
supply many other nearby islands. In the
beautiful Mesopotamia Valley you’ll find
picturesque terraced farms and banana
plantations. If you’re wondering how
to cool off on a hot day, you can visit one
of the many waterfalls and take a refreshing dip.
The charming capital, Kingstown has
a great market, a variety of stores and
numerous restaurants serving delicious
local cuisine. On the south coast, you’ll
find many small, friendly hotels and also
the popular yacht harbours at Young
Island and Blue Lagoon. St. Vincent has
become one of the major yachting centres in the region, and being just a stone’s
throw from Bequia, northernmost of
the Grenadines, it’s the ideal place from
which to start your cruise.
St. Vincent’s rich heritage, vibrant culture and breathtaking beauty make it an
unforgettable destination – somewhere
between heaven and earth ... but a little
closer to heaven.
Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
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0DULQHUV+RWHO
The Mariners Hotel is a beautifully designed
21-bedroom boutique hotel, offering total
style and comfort to its guests. Each elegantly
decorated room has air conditioning, en-suite
bathroom facilities, cable television, free wifi
internet, direct-dial telephone, and a private
balcony giving you unparalleled panoramic
views of the turquoise Caribbean Sea.
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0DULQHUV+RWHO
Villa Beach, Box 859,
Kingstown, St. Vincent, West Indies
SVG Tel: 1-784-457-4000
SVG Fax: 1-784-457-4333
US Tel: 1-201-855-4000
www.marinershotel.com
E-mail: [email protected]
“Affordable Comfort”
JAZZ on the GREEN
Written by The Friends of Jazz. Photos by Seymour Hinds
L
ush green forested hills, the sounds
of a flowing river, a sense of calm and
serenity, the natural amphitheatre
created in the surrounds of the Emerald
Valley Casino, all nestled within the
mountains of Vermont on the leeward
side of St. Vincent, set the stage for Jazz on
the Green.
This jazz event is exclusively organized
and promoted in April each year by the
Friends of Jazz, a non-profit organization,
tasked with exposing patrons to regional
and international performers of the art
form while developing the love of jazz on
the mainland of the multi island nation
of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, all in
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pursuit of raising funds for various local
charities.
The 5th Anniversary of the event was
held on Saturday April 27, 2013, featuring Jamaica Jazz Invasion with Judy
Emmanuel and Dwight Richards as one
of the major acts. The group, collectively
and individually, has performed at various jazz, cabaret and reggae events all
over the world including, the St Lucia
Jazz Festival, the Montreux Jazz Festival,
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, Air Jamaica Jazz
and Blues Festival, Reggae Sunsplash and
Rebel Salute.
Also in the line up were Boo Hinkson of
St. Lucia, Nicholas Brancher of Barbados
and the Eriq Ildefonse Quartet.
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Over the years, the event has featured a number of popular entertainers
including Impact Jazz Band, A.J. Browne,
Cesar Lopez and the Cubana Ensemble,
Dr. Kathy Brown and Tia Fuller who
performed as the saxophonist with international recording artist Beyonce in her
all-girl band.
Friends of Jazz has generously donated
much needed items to the Milton Cato
Memorial Hospital and the Lewis Punnet
Home in St. Vincent. The group has also
provided financial assistance to a number
of individuals to assist with their medical
expenses.
Platinum and Gold sponsors for the
event are First Citizens and the Bank of St.
Vincent & the Grenadines, who both recognize the importance of giving back to
the community. ■
11
Bequia
Bequia, the name derived from a
Carib Indian word meaning ‘Island
of the Clouds’, lies nine miles south of
St. Vincent and is just 7 square miles.
Bequia is home to just under 5000
people. The inhabitants, some of whom
are descendants of 19th-century Scottish
sailors, are friendly, easy-going and always
happy to strike up a conversation with
broad smiles on their faces.
The island is steeped in sea-faring
traditions such as boat-building, fishing
and whaling. Although there’s an airport,
the majority of visitors still arrive by boat.
It wasn’t so long ago that the local ferry
was the old schooner Friendship Rose
that would be piled high with passengers,
fruit, vegetables and possibly a few goats
and chickens as well.
The main harbour, at Admiralty Bay, is
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one of the most popular cruising yachtsmen’s hang-outs in the region. Along the
waterfront you can find a number of great
places to eat, drink and party – all within a
few minutes’ walk of each other.
The picturesque capital of Port
Elizabeth has a sleepy, old-world ambience and you can walk from one end to
the other in 20 minutes. There’s a great
handicraft market and also an excellent
fresh fruit and vegetable market. Ask for
directions and you could be told to ‘turn
left at the almond tree’.
Apart from world-class beaches, and
excellent snorkelling and diving, there are
some wonderful hiking trails. Worthwhile
is a visit to the rugged east coast, which
is wind-swept, thinly populated, and has
stunning views of the Atlantic.
Bequia – sweet, sweet, sweet!
A Weekend in Paradise
Written by Heather Grant. Photos by Wilfred Dederer and Iain Grant
F
or Proust it was tea and madeleines,
for the rest of us, we recommend
the Bequia Beach Hotel. Step back
in time. Turn back your clock to a gentler,
softer time; come to the Caribbean,
specifically to Bequia in the Grenadines.
Perched astride the long golden beach
of Bequia's Friendship Bay is the latest
jewel of the Grenadines, the Bequia
Beach Hotel. Wake to the lapping of the
Caribbean Sea, the quiet dignity of the
frigate birds, the fragrance of tropical
flowers and the constant breeze of the
trade winds.
A decade long labour of love, bornagain-Bequian-Swede Bengt Mortstedt has
designed and constructed a luxury resort
on Bequia’s south coast that offers the
essence of luxurious tranquility for a hundred fortunate guests.
The resort’s 58 suites, composed of
beachfront, garden view, classic sea view,
private villas and a penthouse suite border
the Caribbean Sea, and are set in 9 acres of
verdant gardens with towering palms.
Meticulously finished guest suites are
sumptuously appointed and very private. Comfort and elegance exemplify the
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accommodation. Gracious, comfortable,
eclectic furniture allows guests to relax
in their private sitting room or lounge on
their own terrace. Every convenience has
been taken into account, from top quality
amenities in the spacious well appointed
bathrooms to chilled bottled water stored
in the ensuite wine cooler. Guests’ needs
are provided for in a gym and full service
spa with the skilled hands of massage
therapists and beauticians.
The culinary delights at ‘Bagatelle’,
the resort’s main restaurant, combine
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international flair and presentation with
the freshest local ingredients – your ‘catch
of the day’ might be better described as
caught-an-hour-ago. Lobster night is
special indeed, with the freshest local
langouste served in a variety of delicious
ways, whether simply grilled or prepared
with a meticulously created sauce. On
Wednesdays and Saturdays there is live
entertainment adjacent to the Beach Bar
and Bagatelle. Local artists offer a variety
of music to while away the evening under
the stars.
If the main, curvaceous swimming
pool is the centre attraction during
the day, with its cabanas, and shading
umbrellas, the heart of the complex is
the elegant Oliver Messel (of Mustique
architectural fame) inspired reception
building, combining a greeting function
(unparalleled by anything we have
encountered in any hotel) with elegant
reading room inviting you to pick up a
book, put up your feet and settle into this
original early 20th century era. Artwork
throughout the hotel is by Kerne Erickson,
evoking the impression of a bygone era.
Bequia Beach Hotel is an ideal hub
for those who wish to explore the many
delights of Bequia and islands of the
Grenadines … the turtle sanctuary, the
annual Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest,
the many shops and restaurants of Port
Elizabeth, the challenges of the golf
course in nearby Canouan and the awardwinning diving and snorkelling of the
Tobago Cays.
On the drawing board is access for the
mega yacht crowd, afforded by a dock to
accommodate several of these floating
beauties, with the amenities needed
to keep shipboard systems operating.
Transportation from dock to hotel will be
provided so that these passing guests can
avail themselves of the spa, beach, pool,
restaurant and other features offered by
the hotel to all its guests.
When asked what they remember
most of their Bequia Beach experience,
guests all stress the charm, peacefulness,
and friendly staff who seem genuinely
delighted to see them each day and sad to
see them go. ■
15
Celebrating
New Year’s Eve
– Bequia style!
Written by Peter Smith
Photos by Wilfred Dederer
I
n earlier times on New Year’s Eve
(or ”Old Year’s Night” as it is fondly
called in Bequia), families living
around the shores of Admiralty Bay were
happy to be entertained at midnight by
the sight of yachts at anchor setting off
their out-of date flares. When it came to
the Millennium however, Bequia was
determined to see in the 21st century
in style and that meant just one thing
– fireworks!
The Frangipani Hotel took up the challenge by spearheading celebration plans,
securing the support of other businesses
and tracking down an enthusiastic group
of budding pyro-technicians who, armed
only with good sense, bravado and lighted
cigarettes for fuses, put on a show that
Bequia will never forget.
Five years later, in 2005, former Prime
Minister Sir James Mitchell championed
the formation of the official Bequia New
Year’s Eve Celebration Committee and it is
this all-volunteer group that has ensured
the success of Bequia’s New Year’s Eve
midnight display ever since, coordinating every last detail from fundraising,
purchasing and import, to the set-up and
management of close to ½ ton of pyro.
And what a show it has become!
Despite regulations which restrict the
shipment and import of fireworks to
“Consumer” grade, the 15-minute display
– now electronically controlled but still
designed and meticulously planned by
the original “Bang Gang” of 2000 – never
fails to amaze.
Thanks to the consistent generosity of
a wide range of private and business
donors and the support of the authorities, Bequia today enjoys a New Year’s Eve
celebration tradition that delights its residents and draws visitors and yachts from
around the world.
As New Year’s Eve approaches, the harbour fills with hundreds of boats of every
description, waterfront restaurants take
bookings thick and fast, vantage points
are discussed and the island is abuzz with
expectation. It’s Bequia’s big night and the
word has spread ...
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Meanwhile, on a sand-filled barge
right by the market and in the blazing
midday heat, the Bang Gang is carefully
unwrapping cases and wiring up fuses,
individually covering every piece just
in case of rain. Five hours prep and
they should be done – time for a quick
supper and keep on praying that the
clouds stay away.
As night falls, the parties get going, the
island dines and the Bang Gang waits.
Then, on the stroke of midnight, the steel
band breaks into Auld Lang Syne and –
WHOOSHH!!! Right on cue the first “Big
Honkin’ Star” bursts over the head of the
harbour in Admiralty Bay. Flares fly up
from yachts and the packed crowds that
line the waterfront cheering like mad,
clutching their friends in delight and
holding their heads in wonder as the display moves through to its stunning finale.
The cries of ‘Happy New Year!’ are
drowned out, but no one cares. There’s
plenty of time to keep celebrating after
the last “Shooting Star” has fallen. Dance
till dawn? Party on under the stars? No
problem! New Year’s Eve is Bequia doing
what it does best – providing memories
for all that will last forever.
For more information or to make a
donation to Bequia’s 2014 fireworks display, contact [email protected]. ■
18
Mustique
The mere mention of Mustique conjures up images of fabulous villas,
European Royalty and glamorous popstars; certainly, this privately owned
island, originally purchased and developed by Colin Tennant in 1958, is a
playground for the rich and famous.
However, there’s a lot more to Mustique
than glitz and glamour. For starters, the
three square mile island has some of
the finest beaches in the Grenadines –
Macaroni Beach, on the east coast, is
consistently rated as one of the ten top
beaches in the southern Caribbean with
its ‘Whiter than White’ sand and its ‘Bluer
than Blue’ water, and a shaded picnic area
under the palms.
Although small, Mustique is fairly
hilly, so walking long distances can be
fairly hard work – the best way to get
around is by mule (not a donkey, but a
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gasoline-powered golf cart – though if
you drive one you’ll know why it’s called
a mule!). For genuine equestrians, there’s
also an excellent stable where you can
hire thoroughbred horses and gallop
down deserted white sand beaches.
With its gently rolling hills, low-key
ambience, amazing beaches and great diving, it’s easy to see why the island is such
a popular destination. Britannia Bay, the
yacht harbour, is the main focus of activity with a small fishing village, a couple of
stores and the legendary Basil’s Bar, home
to the annual Mustique Blues Festival.
The building of private homes has
been limited to 140, and the island,
whilst offering a complete infrastructure of roads, water, electricity and other
facilities, retains a leisurely feel and a distinctive character of tranquil elegance
that is uniquely Mustique.
Colin Tennant
– A Reflection
Written by Dara Smith
Photos by Basil Charles
T
he epitome of great wealth is the
notion that you can buy your
own island. A fabulous fantasy
until one closely examines the details
of such an undertaking. Particulars like
electricity, jetty, airstrip, fresh water,
waste disposal, medical, materials for
building, accommodation for workers,
and day-to-day provisioning. Only the
heartiest dreamers of pioneer spirit can
hold hope and tenacity to see such a
mission through.
Colin Tennant (Lord Glenconner) was
born of the aristocracy and heir to the fortunes of his family business. He had served
in World War II and been well educated.
Travelling post-war Europe he began to
form a notion of his own community. The
colonies of the Caribbean seemed to offer
that blank canvas he needed. After his
marriage to Lady Anne he began to look
in earnest to manifest this home of his
imagination.
In 1959 while on assignment at the
family business in Trinidad, Colin longed
to create a utopia of like-minded people whose hedonistic passions could be
shared on a remote island in the West
Indies. He purchased Mustique Island, a
once thriving plantation, from the Hazel
family. Little rain falls on Mustique and
24
the plantation business was not yielding
great profits so the island was a bargain at
$40,000. While Mustique may not have
been good farm land, Colin saw potential
in its fabulous beaches and rolling hills –
albeit bare hills at the time.
Colin was a man of extreme spirit. The
‘common sense’ filter that guides most
minds seemed absent in Colin and so he
drove by sheer force of will and guile his
community of interesting and worthy
people to fruition. Wouk’s “Don’t Stop
the Carnival” does not begin to illustrate
the challenges of the early decades where
water was scarce or non-existent, roads
were primitive paths through pasture,
electricity and food deliveries irregular
and the mosquitoes swarmed everywhere.
Unrelenting, Colin pursued his vision as
the island grew in popularity and notoriety. Eventually, his impractical ways put
25
the island in a financial corner that no
amount of will could overcome. He sold
the island in the late 1980’s to a consortium of Mustique’s homeowners and
ultimately left for St. Lucia.
In St. Lucia, at the famous Pitons,
Colin began again. His care and concern for the local village, as it had on
Mustique, became the cornerstone of
the development there; Beau Estate and
his restaurant Bang Between the Pitons.
26
As he had in Mustique, he drew around
him a theatre of wonder – going so far as
to acquire his own elephant for his Indian
inspired compound. The project in St.
Lucia was somewhat of a success and it
was his last. Colin died at 83 at his home
in St. Lucia.
Mustique is, in many ways, the island
Colin dreamed of. Populated with
interesting people, spectacular villas, a
sanctuary of the well heeled, it is a natural paradise. Wild forests vibrate with
birdsong, tortoises languish in grasses,
mangroves incubate new life and the living is easy. The beaches are sublime, the
electricity, water, transportation, provisioning and safety are among the finest
in the world. Colin’s dream was not folly
after all. While no elephants roam the
roadside, Mustique is in many ways the
miracle he had hoped to create. ■
The Southern Grenadines
It was when tourism was introduced in the 20th century that the
Grenadine islands really started to
flourish with their dazzling beauty,
crystal-clear waters, stunning beaches
and spectacular coral gardens.
Although the islands lie close together,
each has a charm and character of its own
– from the elegant grandeur of privately-owned Mustique, the rich diversity of
Canouan, the timelessness of Mayreau,
the exclusivity of Palm Island and Petit
St. Vincent Resorts, the relative bustle of
Union Island to the pure wonder of the
Tobago Cays.
The Tobago Cays, a pristine marine
park, must surely be the jewel in
St.Vincent’s crown – five deserted islands
set behind a horseshoe reef in one of
the most magnificent settings it is
possible to imagine. Accessible only by
boat, the cays are one of the natural
wonders of the western hemisphere and a
must for any visitor.
27
Lionfish
Written by and photos by
Arun Madisetti
L
ionfish pose possibly the greatest
danger to regional reefs ever.
Endemic to the Indian and Pacific
Oceans and Red Sea, they now range from
North Carolina to as far south as Brazil in
the Atlantic. Genetically isolated to nine
fish either escaped or released in Florida
they are out-competing and claiming
reefs at all depths (found as deep as
182m/600ft) as their own.
Capable of eating anything up to half
their body length, they mature extremely
early and are capable of producing up to
15,000 eggs a week. The egg masses float
on currents till they hatch out and a
28
new population is created. Prized in the
aquarium trade they really are a graceful
and very beautiful fish.
Most islands have a policy on lionfish
now – some work some don’t. Fishermen
in most places are encouraged to kill them
and toss them back in the sea. They do
however make wonderful eating and are
fast becoming more popular in restaurants
and homes.
Despite their good looks the Lionfish
do pack venom in the dorsal (back),
pectoral and pelvic spines. This toxin is
rapidly broken down using hot water.
Since the venom is contained within the
spines, even discarded ones should be
handled with care.
Dominica is held up as the regional
leader in what a small island with limited
resources can do to tackle a problem like
this. Prior to the arrival of any Lionfish, a
sensitization programme was undertaken
and the Fisheries Division conducted
outreach training at all fish landing sites.
The Dominica Watersports Association
(DWA) launched an education programme
to teach fishermen and school children
about the fish and to explain the effects of
uncontrolled population increases. Most
important is that they are incredibly good
eating. A database has been set up to log
all kills by the DWA and is shared with
Fisheries. In many places, lionfish on the
menu outsells more traditional fish and
there is a demand for more in the markets,
hotels and restaurants alike.
The sad news is that, despite all the
efforts to control populations, the US
aquarium trade was still permitted
the importation of 60,000 juvenile
lionfish from South East Asia in 2012.
Unfortunately, there is no happy ending
to this story, but bon apetit. ■
It has been shown regionally that
repeated diving by scuba and spearfishers
on certain reefs can control populations,
but this is only within safe diving limits
and most islands have policies in place
regarding spearfishing. Given that they
like twilight to hunt, any deep reefs and
wrecks provide ample space for them
to congregate and reproduce in relative
safety. If you see one lionfish on a reef,
chances are there are many more.
As a region and individually, the islands
have to adopt policies to tackle lionfish,
otherwise local food fish will, as in the
Bahamas, disappear. It is said that up to
85% of the local fish have disappeared
from Bahamian reefs.
29
Canouan
Unspoiled and virtually undiscovered, Canouan is a lush tropical
paradise in the southern Grenadines
with wide, white sandy beaches,
crystal clear and calm blue waters,
lush, green hilly terrain, and one of
the largest living coral reefs in the
Caribbean that teems with brightly
coloured aquatic life offering
incredible diving and snorkelling.
Canouan is located in the heart of the
Grenadines, within easy reach of neighbouring Mustique, Mayreau and the
Tobago Cays and 110 miles southwest of
Barbados and, with direct flights from
Barbados, Puerto Rico, and St. Vincent,
visitors can now enjoy painless air access.
Canouan is just five square miles
in size and formerly a community of
some 700 farmers and fishermen. The
now expanding local population still
includes fishermen, proud of their
community heritage as boat builders
30
and harvesters of the sea. Models of the
traditional wooden boats are still lovingly
constructed by hand. Laughter prevails
as a vital ingredient of this community,
and the sounds of happy children and
elders create a feeling of traveling into an
easier place and time. Canouan manages
to retain a distinct quality inherited from
another time in history.
Boasting an airport runway, a
luxury resort with one of the most spectacular championship 18-hole golf course
designed by Jim Fazio and a natural harbour for yachts, Canouan has become
more and more popular with visitors.
The variety of amenities, restaurants and
accommodation has grown and there are
now many excellent value guesthouses
where visitors will be assured of a warm
welcome. In spite of all the development,
the principal settlement of Charlestown
retains its distinctly Caribbean flavour
and has not lost any of its island charm.
Buon Appetito
A small taste of Italy
Our Delicatessen offers a fine selection of
extra virgin olive oils, cheeses, pastas, cold
cuts, pate de fois gras and an incredible array
of preserved fruit and marinated vegetables.
All sourced from different regions of Italy.
We also offer the best Italian wine selection
from Brunello di Montalcino which is
considered one of the finest compared to
Chianti Classico.
Quality products at affordable prices – we
cater gourmet picnic lunches, take away
specialties, or that treat for someone special.
Located at Tamarind Beach Hotel, Canouan Island
Tel: 1.784.458.8044 – Fax: 1.784.458.8851
31
Culinary Adventures
in the Caribbean
Written by and photos by Heather Grant
M
ost people do not immediately
think of haute cuisine when
contemplating a trip to the
Caribbean. The region has not developed
a name for gastronomy. Tourists do not
flock to take cooking courses here, as they
do in France and Tuscany, for example,
and probably do not choose their
Caribbean holidays based on the superb
food on offer.
But the times they are a-changing.
The Caribbean produces some wonderful, tasty, eye-catching food. The climate
encourages rapid year round growth –
winter does not exist here! Add to this a
diverse population from one end of the
region to the other, and you have the
ingredients for some exotic and tasty culinary delights.
When you think about the different
countries that have owned, stolen,
managed and generally influenced the
Caribbean, it is not surprising to find
multiple influences on cuisine. Puerto
Rico’s Spanish influence, Trinidad’s
Indian population, the Dutch in St.
Maarten and the French in Martinique
and Guadeloupe – all have developed
over the centuries to shape what people
do with what they grow.
32
Throughout the region, one comes
across the same foods over and over
again – the ubiquitous mango, lime,
papaya (paw paw), callalloo, pumpkin,
christophene and plantain, Variations in
the preparation and cooking of these fruit
and vegetables reflect the local culture
of each island, keeping it interesting for
those who travel from one to the other.
Hotels and restaurants are offering
fresh, local fare cooked and served with
flare. There is a generation of creative
young chefs who realize that local produce
is preferable. They fuse their sometimes
international, but more and more often,
local cooking skills with the freshest of
ingredients, purchased minutes away at
the local market or fish vendor.
In the past, holiday-makers tended to
ask for strawberries, asparagus and apples
because they were familiar with them. A
first time visitor to the Caribbean may not
recognize the local fruit and vegetables
and often feels ill-informed about what
to do with them. Travellers to the islands
have perhaps not heard of soursop ice
cream, stuffed snake gourd or callalloo
soup so would not know what to ask for,
let alone how to prepare them.
So what is there for holiday makers who
wish to cook their own meals, or mega
yacht chefs looking for fresh produce
to satisfy their discerning guests? Most
islands have wonderful local markets
overflowing with fresh vegetables, fruits,
herbs and fish. A tomato that has never
been refrigerated, a red snapper just
plucked from the sea –
what could be better?
No long days or weeks of
transportation, no fossil
fuel expended, no fruits
rendered flavourless by
being picked unripe.
The markets are vibrant,
colourful
spots
that
provide an experience
in themselves. It is fun
to chat with the vendors
about politics, family,
the culture of the area
and most importantly – how to cook
what you want to purchase – a wonderful
Caribbean adventure.
Why not take a culinary trip while
exploring the Caribbean? You will find
foods that you never knew existed just
waiting to captivate your tastebuds. There
is no better experience than to bite into a
sun ripened mango straight from the tree;
taste mashed green figs (bananas) with salt
fish for breakfast, savour a typical guava
pudding for dessert – these gastronomic
delights help to make your Caribbean
holiday a once in a lifetime experience.
Look out for Caribbean Food and
Drink by Heather Grant, available at
Erika’s Marine Services, Union Island or
online at: http://www.erikamarine.com/
SuperyachtServices.html. ■
33
Mayreau
Situated 7 miles south of Canouan
and with a population of only 250,
Mayreau can only be reached by
sailing boat or ferry – once there it’s
very hard to leave.
This little gem of the Caribbean has
unspoiled, picture postcard beaches and
bays and is ideally situated for a ‘land
and sea’ vacation. From there it is easy
to take short trips by sail or speedboat
to the nearby islands. Days can be spent
picnicking and sunbathing on the wide
swathes of deserted beaches or snorkelling in the calm, clear waters – this is the
quintessential place to get away from it all.
Mayreau is a small island and therefore
perfect to explore on foot. With only one
main road running between Saltwhistle
Bay and Saline Bay, the island’s entire
length can be walked in an hour. A short
34
hike up ‘Station Hill’ brings visitors to
the picturesque village of Old Wall with
its quaint church from where there are
spectacular vistas of the Caribbean Sea
and nearby islands. There are several bars
and informal restaurants offering home
cooking, refreshments and where guests
are treated like long lost friends.
Known for its safe anchorage,
Saltwhistle Bay in the north has a beautiful tree-lined beach and exceptionally
calm water that is perfect for swimming.
All of the beaches have powdery white
sand and even the windward beaches are
protected by reefs.
There’s no glitz and glamour in Mayreau
and life hasn’t changed much in the past
40 years or so – it’s an undemanding place
with a timeless charm where simple pleasures make a stay here well worthwhile.
Palm Island
It was originally called Prune Island.
The former owners (John Caldwell
and his wife Mary) renamed it Palm
when they set about to transform the
island into a truly palm island by
planting hundreds of coconut trees.
Rob Barrett, the proud owner of Palm
Island, has made it into what can arguably be called the perfect resort location.
It is located just about a mile from
Union Island where a private boat will
meet and transport you to this privately
owned and exclusive island resort which
is all that is on this 135 acre island
paradise.
White sandy beaches and crystal clear
water surround Palm Island. It is the perfect getaway for nature lovers and those
who want to relax and do nothing but
enjoy this fabulous, all-inclusive resort.
Casuarina Beach, a special favourite
amongst resort guests, runs along the
entire western side of the island.
Non-resident visitors are always welcome provided that prior arrangements
are made.
Tobabo Cays Horseshoe Reef
36
Union Island
Located just 40 miles south of St.
Vincent, Union Island, the crossroad of the Grenadines, is often
called ‘Little Tahiti’ because of its
high, almost vertical peaks which,
on a clear day, are visible from St.
Vincent’s capital, Kingstown.
For yachtsmen, Clifton Harbour (like
Bequia) is a main provisioning stop,
and the place to obtain fuel, ice, water
or internet access. The main harbour
has two small marinas, moorings, and a
great anchorage behind Newland’s Reef
which is close to two interesting and
somewhat unique islands – Newland’s
Island (unique as it has a population of
one) and Happy Island (unique because
it was built by an enterprising gentleman
named Shanti. He spent a year dumping
several boat-loads of sand, conch shells,
38
coconut and palm fronds into an area of
water just inside the reef thus creating
his own island).
The town of Clifton is a “bustling” by
Grenadine standards and boasts great
places to eat at reasonable prices. There
are several stores and water-front guest
houses, and the local people (the island
has a population of around 2,500) are
warm and friendly.
With a small airport and several local
boat operators, Union is the perfect place
for a day cruise to the central Grenadines,
being less than an hour from the neighbouring islands of Mayreau, Petit St.
Vincent and the Tobago Cays, none of
which can be accessed by air. There are
regular flights to Union not only from St.
Vincent, Bequia, Mustique and Canouan,
but also from Barbados.
Explore the beautiful islands of
St Vincent and the Grenadines
MAYREAU
MORPION
Ti Marouba
52ft long catamaran
Max capacity – 40 persons
PALM ISLAND
MUSTIQUE
BEQUIA
TOBAGO CAYS
Sun Spirit
62ft long catamaran
CANOUAN
Sky Flirt
85ft long catamaran
Wind and Sea
SPECIALIST IN DAY SAILING CHARTERS
www.grenadines-windandsea.com • [email protected]
Bougainvilla, Clifton, Union Island • Tel: 1 784 458 8678 • Cell: 1 784 493 3128
Petit St. Vincent
PSV is a tranquil private island
paradise tucked away in the southern Grenadines, just 5 miles from
Union Island.
PSV is a popular hideaway resort in
the Caribbean. This unique private island
caters to a discerning set of visitors, offering 22 one and two bedroom cottages
that provide the ultimate in privacy and
luxury with no telephone or TV in the
rooms. Guests simply hoist a yellow flag
to summon room service (a waiter will
40
appear in a mini-moke car) or a red flag to
just be left alone.
Barefoot elegance and unobtrusive
attentive service have made PSV a favourite with travellers who enjoy the pristine
beauty of this mildly sloped, lush garden of Eden, surrounded by two miles of
white sand beach and turquoise waters.
The sheltered channel anchorage is
popular with yachtsmen who can come
ashore for the best tropical drinks, light
lunches and evening bar snacks.
Basil’s Bar • Mustique
Established in 1976, Basil’s Bar is built on stilts on a rock overlooking the
majestic Britannia Bay. Voted “one of the best bars in the world” by
Newsweek since 1987, and capturing the #37 spot on CNN Travel’s list
of the World’s 50 Best Beach Bars. It’s “a place where sailors party with
business moguls, fashion models, gardeners, rock stars and school
teachers”. Basil’s has a reputation as one of the finest seafood restaurants
in the Caribbean.
Join us year-round for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and our Wednesday night
BBQ Jump-up. Basil’s is home of the only Blues Festival in the Caribbean
happening January 22 – February 5, 2014, and our New Year’s Eve celebration should not be missed.
At Basil’s in Villa, just across from Young Island on St. Vincent, carries gift
items and contemporary furniture from Bali and other parts of Asia. Our
Boutique at Basil’s Bar on Mustique features great silks from India, casual
wear, silk Kaftans by Camilla, and our famous Basil’s Bar T-Shirts.
Just up the road from Basil’s Bar is the Mustique General Store which
stocks fine wines, cheeses and gourmet products. Across Forever features
antiques from Bali and India, furniture from Asia and beyond, a magnificent
collection of contemporary pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting,
accessories and more. Like us on Facebook, and check us out when you
next visit Mustique
Downstairs Cobblestone Inn is where you find Basil’s Bar Kingstown. Sit
and relax in air-conditioned comfort and enjoy a delightful cocktail, our daily
buffet lunch, á la carte breakfast, lunch or dinner. We are also a full-service
catering company for lunch, dinners, weddings and any special occasion.
Email [email protected] or telephone (784) 457-2713.
Basil’s Bar
Mustique • St. Vincent
www.basilsbar.com
Tel: (784) 488-8407/8350/8405
Fax: (784) 456-5825

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