Boxer Handbook - Midwest Boxer Rescues

 ………..a handbook to boxers
2 Table of Contents Pet First Aid Kit
Poisonous Plants for Dogs
Chocolate Toxicity in Dogs
Antifreeze Poisoning
Fences, Yards and Gates
Common Health Conditions
Heatstroke and Sunburn
Heartworm Preventative
Flea & Tick Preventative
Warning on Acepromazine
Boxer Behaviors and Training Tips
Why Go to Obedience Class
Locating an Obedience Class
NO Kitties 101
To Breed or Not to Breed
Choosing a Dog Food
Sample Contract
Taking Your Boxer Home
What Happens Now….
Friends of Boxer Rescue
This handbook was compiled and formatted by Beverly Herndon and Valerie Robinson Copies and binding compliments of Teressa Hill 3 NOTE: This handbook is not intended to be used in lieu of seeking professional medical attention for your pet. 4 5 Pet First Aid Kit The following are items we recommend including in your pet first aid kit. Benadryl Immodium (no Kaopectate) Hydrogen peroxide (induce vomiting) Neosporin or other triple antibiotic ointment Robitussin or equivalent Saline eye wash Styptic powder Eye lubricant or gel Ace bandage or other temporary wrap and a small board to use as a splint Maalox­coated aspirin (Ascriptin) These things may be useful when your dog becomes ill or is involved in an accident. Keep them on hand and you’ll be more prepared if the need arises. Consult your veterinarian for more information and for the appropriate dosage. 6 Poisonous Plants for Dogs Almond Amaryllis American Yew Angel's Trumpet Apricot (Pit) Arrowhead Vine Asparagus Fern Autumn Crocus Azalea Balsam Pear Bird of Paradise Bittersweet Woody Black Locust Boston Ivy Buckeye Buttercup Cherry Castor Bean China Berry Chrysanthemum Cocoa Bark Mulch Colodium Corarua Creeping Charlie Creeping Fig Crown of Thorns Daffodil (bulb) Delphinium Dologeton Drunk Cane Dutchman's Breeches Elephant Ears Emerald Duke English Holly English Yew Foxglove Ground Cherry Glocal Ivy Heart Leaf Horse Chestnut Indian Tobacco Indian Turnip Ivy Japanese Plum Jasmine Jerusalem Cherry Jimson Weed Larkspur Loco Weed Lupine Majesty Marble Queen Marijuana Matrimony Vine May Apple Mescal Bean Mistletoe Mock Orange Monkey Pod Moonseed Morning Glory Mushrooms Naricissus Bulbs Needlepoint Ivy Neth…. Ivy Nightshade Nutmeg Nux Vomica Pathos Peace Lily Peach (Pit) Peyote Periwinkle Pig Weed Poinsettia Poke Weed Poison Hemlock Pot Mum Privet Red Princess Rhododendron Rhubarb Ripple Ivy Saddle Leaf Schefflera Skunk Cabbage Soap Berry Split Leaf Spider Mum Spinach Sprangeri Fern Sunburned Potatoes Tomato Vine Tulip (bulb) Umbrella Plant Water Hemlock Weeping Fig Western Yew Wild Cherry Wisteria ***Some of the more common plants are in bold***
7 Chocolate Toxicity in Dogs We've all heard it,​
"Don't give your dog chocolate it will kill him".​
Well how true is it you're probably wondering. Do I have to rush him to an emergency vet if he ate one of my M&M's? The truth is chocolate contains theobromine that is toxic to dogs in sufficient quantities. This is a xanthine compound in the same family of caffeine, and theophylline. Toxic Levels The good news is that it takes, on average, a fairly large amount of theobromine 100­150 mg/kg to cause a toxic reaction. Although there are variables to consider like the individual sensitivity, animal size and chocolate concentration. On average, Milk chocolate​
contains 44 mg of theobromine per oz. Semisweet chocolate​
contains 150mg/oz. Baker's chocolate​
390mg/oz. Using a dose of 100 mg/kg as the toxic dose it comes out roughly as: 1 ounce per 1 pound of body weight for​
Milk chocolate 1 ounce per 3 pounds of body weight for​
Semisweet chocolate 1 ounce per 9 pounds of body weight for ​
Baker's chocolate​
. So, for example, 2 oz. of Baker's chocolate can cause great risk to an 15 lb. dog. Yet, 2 oz. of Milk chocolate usually will only cause digestive problems. Clinical Signs Xanthines affect the nervous system, cardiovascular system and peripheral nerves. It has a diuretic effect as well. Clinical signs: Hyper excitability Hyper irritability Increased heart rate Restlessness Increased urination Muscle tremors Vomiting Diarrhea 8 Treatment There is no specific antidote for this poisoning. And the half life of the toxin is 17.5 hours in dogs. Induce vomiting in the first 1­2 hours if the quantity is unknown. Administering activated charcoal may inhibit absorption of the toxin. An anticonvulsant might be indicated if neurological signs are present and needs to be controlled. Oxygen therapy, intravenous medications, and fluids might be needed to protect the heart. Milk chocolate will often cause diarrhea 12­24 hours after ingestion. This should be treated symptomatically (fluids, etc..) to prevent dehydration. If you suspect your pet has ingested chocolate contact your Vet immediately! They can help you determine the proper treatment for your pet. 9 Antifreeze Poisoning It is said that antifreeze is responsible for the poisoning of over 10,000 dogs and cats every year. The toxic ingredient to blame is ethylene glycol, a substance that is found not only in antifreeze, but in radiator coolant, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid, and other automotive liquids. It’s sweet smelling and tasting properties make it attractive to pets, and it doesn’t take much to cause damage. One to two teaspoons can poison a cat; three tablespoons can kill a medium­sized dog. Because it is a substance that is readily available at auto supply stores and is used in nearly every motor vehicle on the road, it’s important that pet owners know a few things about antifreeze and it’s effect on our furry friends. Here are seven things that you should be aware of: 1. Symptoms very, depending on how long it has been since the ingestion. Symptoms also depend on how much of the poison they drank. 2. Initial symptoms mirror those of intoxication. 3. The ethylene glycol can cause an irritating effect on a dog’s stomach, which may cause vomiting. 4. Dogs will urinate and drink excessively. They may be depressed and exhibit signs of poor balance. 5. Dogs will drink more because the thirst centers of the brain are stimulated in response to the poison ingestion. 6. While some dogs may appear to look and feel better 12 hours later, it is only because the liver and kidneys are working to metabolize the ethylene glycol. It is common, however, that symptoms return in 24 hours, and are much worse. Things to look for are dehydration, weakness, depression, diarrhea, rapid breathing, mouth ulcers and seizures. 7. If you are certain your dog has consumed antifreeze, you should attempt to induce vomiting and get him to a medical professional immediately. 10 Fences, Yards and Gates Boxers are very social dogs and want to be with their family – if left outside unattended, they will often go in search of their family or just people in general. They might leap over a chain link, scale a 6 foot privacy or dig their way out. Never ever leave your boxer in the backyard when you are not home. Fences should always be kept in good repair and monitored regularly for low places or loose boards. Electric fences are not permitted for several reasons but the main one being, an electric fence does not prevent humans or other dogs from entering your yard. If a stray dog wanders into your yard and a game of chase ensues, if your boxer runs out of the yard, they will not likely risk the shock of running back in and then they will be loose in the neighborhood. Gates should always have some type of locking mechanism on them. Meter readers, neighborhood kids, your own kids, often leave the gates not shut all the way and result in the boxer escaping. By placing a lock or locking mechanism on your gates, it ensures accidental escapes do not occur. 11 Common Health Conditions The following health conditions have been identified in the Boxer. Some of these conditions can be identified through testing. In those cases, the currently available tests have been listed and described. The text below is intended as an aid to those seeking health information and should not be used to form a diagnosis or to replace regular veterinary care by one’s own veterinarian. Hip Dysplasia Hip dysplasia is the number one cause of hind limb lameness in dogs and results in an arthritic condition of the hip joint which is initially caused by a laxity (looseness) in the hip joint itself. This joint is a ball and socket joint in which the head of the thigh bone (femur) fits into a cup­like depression (acetabulum) in the pelvis. The laxity is associated with the tissues which surround and hold the joint in place, that is, the tendons, ligaments, connective tissue, and muscle, and this laxity leads to bony abnormalities of the ball and socket. While the laxity of the joint is not thought to change much with time, the presence of joint instability causes abnomal wear and tear on the cartilage lining of the joint with subsequent development of arthritis as the dog ages. Indeed, the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) believes that there is little change in the test for dysplasia after 4 months of age; however, they require testing at two years of age or older for certification purposes, to err on the side of caution.Clinical signs can be extremely variable ­­ from no symptoms to severe lameness. Severity of arthritic changes on radiographs (X­rays) does not necessarily correlate with degree of lameness. Diagnosis is made from radiographs of the hip joint (from the pelvis to the kneecap) and does require sedation or anesthesia. Positioning of the dog is critical for proper evaluation. The radiographs are evaluated by veterinary radiologists specially trained for this task. The dogs are graded as excellent, good, fair, borderline, or mildly, moderately, or severely dysplastic. A newer method of evaluating hip joint laxity called PennHIP has been developed at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine. This involves a different method of positioning the dog and uses a distraction device that is fitted to the dog during the procedure. Three views are taken, including a compression view, a distraction view and the standard (OFA) extended view. From the radiographs, the dog is assigned a DI or distraction index from 0­1.0, with values of 0.3 or below considered NOT at high risk for developing dysplasia. The dog is also ranked with other members of its breed in a percentile. (A dog ranking in the 80th percentile has 20% of its breed showing tighter hips.) This test can be performed at 16 weeks of age, but the originators of the method admit greater reliability if the test is performed later (at one year). Hip dysplasia is thought to be genetically determined in part, but the mode of inheritance has not been established, since multiple genes and environmental factors such as nutrition and rapid growth may play a role in its development. While some have questioned the frequency and severity of hip dysplasia in the boxer, many owners are now testing their dogs. The OFA currently reports the boxer as 67th in incidence of dysplasia (among breeds where over 100 dogs have been tested) with 2.9% of boxers testing excellent and 11.3% dysplasitic. The OFA Web Site at www.offa.org, or the PennHip website at www.vet.upenn.edu/ResearchCenters/pennhip/what_is_ph.html are sources of additional information. This and other information is best discussed with your own veterinarian. Thyroid Disease in Boxers Thyroid disease in the boxer occurs primarily as hypothyroidism, or impaired thyroid gland function with low thyroid hormone levels. It often develops slowly over several months or years. The animal's body, for as yet 12 unknown reasons, forms antibodies against its own thyroid gland resulting in partial or complete destruction of the gland and the subsequent inability to produce adequate thyroid hormone. Many breeds, including the boxer, seem to be genetically predisposed to hypothyroidism. Affected animals may be listless, develop coarse haircoats, have significant hair loss, gain weight, experience infertility and/or fetal resorption or show neurologic problems. In some cases, abnormal test results may preceed the clinically apparent stage of the disease._ A_simple thyroid test (T4) obtained from your veterinarian is often inaccurate and can give falsely low readings in normal dogs with concurrent non­thyroid illness and normal values when thyroid disease is in the early stages. More definitive testing may be obtained by performing a panel of tests which include Total T4, TGAA (thyroglobulin autoantibodies), cTSH (canine thyroid stimulating hormone), so­called "free T4 by equilibrium dialysis," and sometimes T3 and free T3. This panel is currently not available from all diagnostic laboratories and must be sent to one of several reference laboratories by your veterinarian._ Repeat testing may be recommended at regular intervals, because the disease can be slow to develop and current test results may not predict future abnormalities. Your veterinarian may not feel the need for these additional tests if the dog has no clinical signs of hypothyroidism, but owners who suspect their animals of being hypothyroid despite normal values on simple T4 tests and/or those who suspect_an hereditary condition due to knowledge of affected relatives may wish to pursue more definitive testing as a screening mechanism in consultation with their veterinarian. Boxer Cardiomyopathy One of the most common causes of sudden/unexpected death in boxers, both young and old, is a condition thought to be inherited and characterized by abnormal heart rhythms involving the ventricles (the main blood pumping chambers) of the heart. This condition can cause varying degrees of disability and occasionally results in congestive heart failure. Current research has determined that the disease is the result of an electrical conduction disturbance which causes the heart to contract too early, thus producing an extra, ineffective beat, the so called Premature Ventricular Contraction (PVC). While many dog breeds may have a few of these PVC's, the boxer seems to be prone to having more of these premature beats. When large numbers of these PVC's occur together, the heart muscle cannot produce a normal, effective contraction, which results in a lack of blood flow to vital organs including the brain and the heart itself. This can cause_the animal to experience a seizure­like or fainting episode (syncope). A prolonged sequence of PVC's can lead to complete cardiac arrest unless the heart resumes a normal pattern of contractions. Less commonly, the lack of adequate contractions may cause the heart to fail and the dog's heart may dilate, causing congestive heart failure with symptoms such as shortness of breath, exercise intolerance, abdominal swelling, coughing and symptoms similar to those occurring in humans with heart failure. This is known as dilated cardiomyopathy ­­ a less frequent condition in the boxer than the more commonly seen electrical conduction defect. The definitive test for this disease would be a DNA test for the abnormal gene. This research is currently underway at Ohio State University, but research of this type can take a considerable amount of time and funding. Since affected dogs are often asymptomatic until a seizure or sudden death occurs, current attempts in screening for the disease are directed at the healthy appearing animal. The most sensitive tool has been determined to be a Holter Monitor examination (24­hour EKG), which records the dog's electrocardiographic activity over at least 24 hours. The monitor is strapped to the dog and electrodes are placed on the chest while the dog goes about its normal activities. The total number of beats, including the abnormal PVC's, are recorded. The electrodes must be correctly placed and the results must be interpreted by trained personnel. While current research at Ohio State University by Dr. Kate Meurs, funded by the American Boxer Charitable Foundation and the AKC Canine Health Foundation, has suggested certain thresholds of PVC's or other abnormalities for 13 diagnosis of the condition, she has also discovered that an individual dog's numbers may vary from day to day or week to week. Her ongoing research, and that of others, will hopefully determine with greater certainty the value of this screening tool in the future until a definitive genetic test is available. While it is true that a symptomatic dog usually has thousands of beats in a 24 hour period and in severe cases may be diagnosed by simple auscultation of the heart or by a brief EKG, the Holter monitor is still probably the best screening tool for early detection, due to the often intermittant occurrance of the PVCs in the asymptomatic dog. Of recent interest to boxer cardiology researchers is a somewhat similar condition found to occur in human families, the so­called arrhythmogenic right ventricular dysplasia (ARVD), in which young and old persons, previously in good health, experience sudden death. To our knowledge, attempts to find a precise DNA marker have not been successful so far, but if this occurs, it may help veterinary cardiologists find the canine genetic defect sooner. BCM appears to be unique to boxers, so far, in the dog world, and is dissimilar in many respects to cardiomyopathy occurring in other breeds, such as the Doberman and Great Dane. Continuing research and follow­up of dogs already under study will hopefully provide better insight and understanding of this unique condition in the boxer, as well as more widespread availability of screening. Aortic / Subaortic Valvular Stenosis: AS/SAS One of the most common heart defects occurring in dogs, boxers in particular, is aortic or subaortic stenosis. In most cases the stenosis, or narrowing, is produced by a fibrous ring of tissue below the aortic valve, hence the term "subaortic." The disease is inherited but its mode of transmission is not known at this time. Oxygen­rich blood flows from the left ventricle of the heart, through the aortic valve and into the aorta, which transports the oxygenated blood to all organs and tissues in the body except the lungs. Narrowing of the aortic valve requires the left ventricle to work harder to pump the necessary amount of blood. This increased workload can result in hypertrophy (thickening) of the left heart muscle. Since the blood is being forced through a smaller­than­normal opening, there is also increased pressure generated by the pumping action of the heart. This increase in pressure can cause dilation (ballooning) of the aorta. Reduced flow can produce symptoms of fainting (syncope) and even sudden death, although abnormal heart rhythms (arrhythmias) may also contribute to these symptoms. The stenosis creates a change in the flow of blood through the valve causing turbulence which results in swishing sound called a heart murmur. Often the stenosis can be seen on echocardiography. Murmurs are graded from one to six, but a weak murmur may not always be detectable, even by a trained cardiologist. Exercising the dog during the cardiac exam may increase detection of murmurs in some cases. Not all murmurs are the result of aortic stenosis/subaortic stenosis, but may be so­called "innocent," or physiologic murmurs, particularly when they occur in young animals. The diagnosis of AS/SAS is best made by a veterinary cardiologist, or one with equivalent experience and training. When a murmur is identified and not presumed to be physiologic, further investigation is warranted. The least invasive and most available testing consists of Echo/Doppler.This testing is best performed when the animal is full grown or at least one year of age, unless the dog is experiencing symptoms of heart disease, in which case testing should be pursued promptly. As in many instances in medicine, these tests have limitations and are not perfect. False positive and false negative diagnoses may occur. In some cases this is simply because the abnormality is too subtle to be diagnosed with currently available knowledge and/or technology. Echo­Doppler flow rates can vary considerably in the same animal depending on the proficiency of the operator and the amount of stress to which the animal is subjected. These limitations may be minimized in part by examiners with advanced training using 14 the appropriate ultrasound equipment, techniques, and standards established by the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, Specialty of Cardiology. Cancerous and Benign tumors Boxers are highly prone to cancer. So any time you see a bump on your Boxer, you should check it out. About 20 out of 100 cases are cancerous. Watch out for both external and internal lumps, eye ulcers or cherry eye as they called it, as well as dermodicosis or skin sores. Mast cell tumors are malignant and they do not occur very often but can form either in the skin or within the body. The related disorders reported along such tumors are round raised masses in the skin of your Boxer, lack of appetite, vomiting and abdominal pain. Check for tarry stools due to bleeding in the upper intestinal tract. Boxers of any age can develop mast cell tumor but older ones, above 8 years, are more prone to it. Never take tumors in your Boxers lightly, even a small one! The veterinarian would usually have them removed immediately because of their high susceptibility to cancer. One owner noticed her Boxer had a bump the size of a mosquito bite that did not go away even after 10 days. The vet diagnosed it a malignant tumor and removed it the very next day. The owner felt so relieved that the tumor was removed before the cancer had a chance to spread. Another owner found both his Boxer females had lumps and had it checked out immediately. The vet removed the lumps due to their breed and the Boxers were all fine now! Yet another owner was not so lucky. “I have had the pleasure of raising two great Boxers but both passed away much too young of cancer. The last one, Nick, died one week after being diagnosed with anal cancer. It spread rapidly and he was only 7 years old” Bloat Gastric torsion or GDV or bloat in your Boxer can be life threatening so bring him to the veterinarian immediately. The stomach gets filled with air and twisting and this can happen suddenly. The symptoms include restlessness, panting, drooling, thirsty and nausea and the stomach is bloated (distended abdomen). Your Boxer may vomit and continue to retch but nothing would come out. Some ways to reduce the risk of your boxer contracting bloat: ● Feed on a raised dish. Expensive stands can be purchased or placing the food bowl on a step or a single booster step. ● Avoid excessive activity 30 minutes before and after each meal. ● Schedule feed your boxer. Set a schedule and feed twice a day, after a set amount of time, pick the uneaten food up and do not feed again until the next scheduled feeding. Eye (Corneal) Ulcers AKA indolent ulcer, recurrent corneal erosion, or ulcerative keratitis 15 A corneal ulcer is a break in the outer layer or epithelium of the cornea. They can be caused by a scratch or injury. Uncomplicated ulcers, although initially painful, should heal in 3 to 4 days with appropriate treatment. Those ulcers that persist longer than this period often prove to be complicated ulcers. Corneal ulcers will fail to heal for two general reasons. The first set of reasons would be due to external causes. These causes would include entropion ­ an abnormal rolling in of the eyelid, or trichiasis ­ facial hair which is in contact with the eye as a result of facial conformation. Also, foreign bodies lurking behind the third eyelid, embedded within the eyelid or in the cornea itself, and abnormally placed eyelashes ­ called ectopic cilia ­ are causes of ongoing corneal trauma. The external cause must be discovered and resolved first then the corneal ulcer can have a chance to heal. The second set of reasons that Corneal ulcers will fail to heal are for "Internal" reasons. These would include glaucoma, the lack of tear production, and inflammation of the eye itself. Sometimes the tissue itself fails to heal in a normal fashion. This process is recognized in certain breeds, like the boxer, and older dogs and is sometimes referred to as a "boxer ulcer". Another term for this type of ulcer is "indolent." Corneal ulcers are a frequent problem in veterinary medicine. Your regular veterinarian is equipped to evaluate and manage most of the non complicated problems. Those animals with severe or chronic eye disease are referred for evaluation to the veterinary ophthalmologist who is especially trained and equipped to treat unusual ocular disease in pets. Gingival Hyperplasia In lay terms this condition is an enlargement of the gums. The gums can grow along the sides of, or over the teeth. Treatment of this condition will be dependent upon the extent and location of the growth. Plaque and calculus can become entrapped below the gum line. The enlarged gum tissue can be damaged by the opposing teeth. In some cases the growth can cover over teeth. In cases that involve treatment of the affected area, the most common course of action is surgical removal of the excess gum tissue; however the excess growth may occur. Gingival Hyperplasia most often occurs in older dogs. It appears to have a higher incidence of occurrence in Boxers, Collies, Bulldogs and other large breed dogs. This is a great time to talk about dog dental care. Just as you brush your teeth daily to keep them free of cavities and decay, you can brush your dog’s teeth too! They do have pet toothbrushes and toothpaste. You should not use human toothpaste on your dog. Not only does this get you familiar with Fido’s mouth so you can easily spot if something it amiss, your vet will be happy that Fido doesn’t mind having his mouth looked at when he does an exam. Mange – Demodectic vs. Sarcoptic In rescue, we often see cases of Demodectic Mange and rarely cases of Sarcoptic Mange. The following is a little about each of them, both can be easily and inexpensively treated. Demodectic Mange: Demodectic mange, also called "demodex," is caused by a microscopic mite of the ​
Demodex​
genus. Three species of ​
Demodex​
mites have been identified in dogs: ​
Demodex canis​
, ​
Demodex gatoi​
, and ​
Demodex injai​
. The most common mite of demodectic mange is ​
Demodex canis​
. All dogs raised normally by their mothers 16 possess this mite as mites are transferred from mother to pup via cuddling during the first few days of life. Most dogs live in harmony with their mites, never suffering any consequences from being parasitized. If, however, conditions change to upset the natural equilibrium the Demodex mites may "gain the upper hand." The mites proliferate and can cause serious skin disease. It can appear due to a compromised immune system, poor living conditions, poor nutrition, stress or a combination of any or all of the aforementioned. Demodectic mange is not considered a contagious disease and isolation of affected dogs is generally not considered necessary. Localized Demodex occurs as isolated scaly bald patches, usually on the dog's face, legs or feet creating a polka­dot appearance. If conditions improve, the dog can recover without treatment. However, if conditions do not improve the localization can progress to a generalized state. In a generalized state, the dog can lose all or most of its hair, with scaly, infected skin that when scratched can bleed and form more crusts and sores. In a generalized state a very bad odor accompanies the dog. In severe cases, all the hair may not grow back. Current Treatment of Choice – Ivermectin & Preventic Collar Ivermectin is a broad spectrum anti­parasite medication with a number of uses though its use in treating demodex is not approved by the FDA. When ivermectin was a new drug it was hoped that it could be used against demodectic mange mites as at that time only fairly toxic dips were available and incurable cases were common. After some experimentation it was found that daily or every other day dosing is necessary for effective demodex treatment and soon ivermectin was felt unequivocally to be the drug of choice for this condition. Note that the weekly protocols that work for other parasites simply do not work on demodex mites. Preventic Collars have shown to be an excellent way to control demodectic mange and can be used alone or in conjunction with Ivermectin therapy, depending on severity of the case. Preventic collars should never be used if there is a cat in the home. Discuss with your vet the best choice of treatment for you and your pets. 17 Sarcoptic Mange: Sarcoptic mange is the name for the skin disease caused by infection with the ​
Sarcoptes scabei​
mite. (Scabies) Mites are not insects; instead they are more closely related to spiders. They are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye. Adult ​
Sarcoptes scabei​
mites live 3­4 weeks in the host’s skin. After mating, the female burrows into the skin depositing 3­4 eggs in the tunnel behind her. The eggs hatch in 3­10 days producing a larvae which, in turn, move about on the skin surface eventually molting into a "nymphal" stage and finally into an adult. The adults move on the surface of the skin where they mate and the cycle begins again with the female burrowing and laying eggs. The motion of the mite in and on the skin is extremely itchy. Further, the presence of burrowed mites and their eggs generates a massive allergic response in the skin which is even more itchy. Mites prefer hairless skin thus leaving the ear flaps, elbows and abdomen at highest risk for the red, scaly itchy skin that characterizes sarcoptic mange. It should be noted that this pattern of itching is similar to that found with ​
airborne allergies (atopy) as well as with ​
food allergies​
. Frequently, before attempting to sort out allergies, a veterinarian will simply treat a patient for sarcoptic mange as a precaution. It is very easy to be led down the wrong path (pursuing allergy aggressively) if one considers sarcoptic mange too unusual or unlikely. Sarcoptic mange mites are usually spread by direct contact from host to host. While mites can live off of a host for days to weeks depending on their life stage, they are only infective for 36 hours which means that environmental decontamination is generally not necessary. Mite infections on humans are self­limiting (i.e., they go away on their own) as the mite is not able to complete its life cycle on the "wrong" host. The condition is extremely itchy, though, while it lasts. The mites are most active where skin is warm (in bed and where clothing is snug). If a sarcoptic mange animal is present in the home, it is a good idea to wash any bedding in the washing machine and wash and collars or harnesses. While sarcoptic mange is difficult to diagnose definitively, it is fairly easy to treat and a number of choices are available. Discuss with your vet the best choice of treatment for you and your pets. Remember all dogs in a household where Sarcoptic Mange has been diagnosed should be treated. 18 Heatstroke and Sunburn Heatstroke Just like people; pets can get heatstroke. Dogs do not tolerate heat and humidity as well as humans. Dogs do not have sweat glands, like we do, and must regulate their body temperature through panting. Panting in an overheated dog does not provide a sufficient means to lower body temperature. A dog with prolonged heatstroke can lead to coma, brain damage or even death. Causes: ●
Pet is left in a parked car. Pets should never be left in a parked car. ●
Even with the windows cracked, your pet can quickly suffer heatstroke or worse yet die. ●
If a pet has had heat exhaustion once, they are more susceptible in the future. ●
Lack of appropriate shelter outside. ●
Exercising in the hot, humid weather. ●
Underlying disease, especially heart, lung and seizure disorders. ●
Certain breeds – dogs with short snouts, such as Boxers. ●
Heavy­coated dogs in warm climates. Signs of Heatstroke: ●
Excessive panting ●
Fast pulse ●
Check the dog’s gums and tongue – deep red or blue; seek help immediately. ●
Collapse ●
Body temperature of 105​
°​
­110° F. Treatment of Heatstroke: ●
Remove from the direct heat. ●
Wet thoroughly with cool water to lower body temps – place water soaked towels on head, neck, chest and abdomen. Ice packs can be used in place of towels. ●
Turn a fan and point in the dog’s direction. ●
Rub alcohol under the animal’s front and back legs or on the pads. Do not use large quantities of alcohol (more than a pint), as it can be toxic to dogs. ●
Take to the nearest vet if improvement is not seen. Sunburn Believe it or not – dogs can sunburn too ! Boxers have a short coat and depending on the color are very susceptible to a sunburn. White boxers or boxers with lots of white on their face/neck/legs/chest are at the most risk. If your boxer will be spending time in the sun – use sunscreen, just like you would for a child to protect them from getting too much sun. Look for a sunscreen that does not contain PABA which can be poisonous for pets if ingested and we know how boxers like to lick ! Treatment: ●
Cool water bath with some baking soda or oatmeal product to help with itching. ●
Gently wipe the burned areas with witch hazel. ●
Apply Aloe Vera to the burned areas. ●
Repeat the cool baths, witch hazel and Aloe Vera frequently. 19 ●
If there are blisters or open sores from the sunburn – seek the help of your vet immediately. 20 Heartworm Preventative Heartworms are caused by a bite from a mosquito that is infected. Heartworms are not transferrable from dog to dog – only from a bite by an infected mosquito. The Heartworm Cycle: 1)​
A mosquito bites a heartworm­infected animal. 2)​
The mosquito is then carrying microscopic versions of the heartworm, called microfilariae. 3)​
When the mosquito bites another dog or cat, that animal is now infected with the heartworm microfilariae. 4)​
Within 70 to 90 days, the microfilariae have made it through the tissues to the animal's heart, where they reproduce (providing both male & female worms are present) and live for several years. If both sexes are present, they will be producing their own little microfilariae within 6­7 months after that mosquito bite. 5)​
The cycle continues. Heartworm Preventative:​
A simple treat­like chewable tablet is given monthly. The medication contained in the tablet kills any microfilariae that may exist in the dogs system. Treatment for Heartworms:​
Treatment varies depending on the severity of the infestation. Because the heartworms manifest in the heart, extinguishing all the worms at once can prove fatal for your pet. It is usually treated with injections spaced several days to weeks apart. The dog must be kept quiet and very inactive to allow the heart to heal without risk of excessive bleeding, which can lead to death. There are many heartworm preventative products on the market, discuss with your vet which one is right for your pet. There is a product that rescue discourages use of called ProHeart 6. It is an injection provided by your vet twice a year. This product was pulled from the shelves in the USA due to a large number of adverse 21 reactions including fatalities. This product was continued in use in Europe and Australia and in June 2008 was reintroduced back into the USA. No change was made to the formula upon reintroduction. You may read about this product from the manufacturer at ​
www.proheart6.com​
. You can also google “ProHeart6” and see advice from vets and other pet owners. Flea & Tick Preventative Fleas Few creatures can inflict more misery, ounce for ounce, than fleas. These tiny, ​
almost­invisible pests can make life miserable and disrupt your household with a vicious cycle of ​
biting and scratching​
. Fleas may also cause flea ​
allergy dermatitis​
in some pets and may be carriers of dangerous diseases ​
and can cause tapeworms. Flea & Tick products offer control of fleas, killing up to 100% of adult fleas on your pet within 18 hours. And some products have added ingredient to kill flea eggs and larvae, completely breaks the life cycle of these dangerous and ​
annoying pests​
. Ticks Often too tiny to be seen, ticks ​
attach to pets​
and feed on blood until they are engorged. They thrive in high humidity and moderate temperatures, but can be found all over the country. Ticks may ​
carry and transmit diseases​
, including Lyme disease, that can cause ​
serious health problems​
for pets and people. Flea and tick control products kills up to 100% of ticks on dogs and cats within 24­48 hours. Using Flea and Tick preventatives year round ensure your pet’s comfort and health. There are many products on the market and we recommend that you research your options, consult your veterinarian and find a product that works best for your pets and family. An excellent website to refer to is ​
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2094&aid=2627​
, this website provides a chart of many different products, their active ingredient and how it is used. If you own a cat, we strongly urge you to not use a product on your dog if it is indicated that it is not safe for cats. We do not recommend using any item that you can purchase at your local grocery or convenience store. Tick Removal: ​
Even with the best precautions, your boxer may still get a tick or two. Following is the best way a veterinarian has described to remove a tick. Grasp the tick firmly with tweezers as close to the skin as possible. Pull gently but firmly straight away from the skin until the tick comes out. Do not twist. Avoid grasping the tick’s abdomen. This can cause 22 regurgitation of the stomach contents into your pet, increasing the likelihood of Lyme disease, Ehrlichiosis, rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, and other scary tick­borne diseases​
. 23 Warning on Acepromazine by Wendy Wallner, DVM Chairman, Health and Research Committee American Boxer Club There is one drug commonly used in anesthetic protocols that should not be used in the Boxer. The drug is Acepromazine, a tranquilizer, which is often used as a preanesthetic agent. In the Boxer, it tends to cause a problem called first degree heart block, a potentially serious arrhythmia of the heart. It also causes a profound hypotension (severe lowering of the blood pressure) in many Boxers that receive the drug. Recently, on the Veterinary Information Network, a computer network for practicing veterinarians, an announcement was placed in the cardiology section entitled "Acepromazine and Boxers." This described several adverse reactions to the drug in a very short time span at a veterinary teaching hospital. All the adverse reactions were in Boxers. The reactions included collapse, respiratory arrest, and profound bradycardia (slow heart rate, less than 60 beats per minute). The announcement suggested that Acepromazine should not be used in dogs of the Boxer breed because of a breed related sensitivity to the drug. WARNING: This drug is the most commonly prescribed tranquilizer in veterinary medicine. It is also used orally and is prescribed for owners who want to tranquilize their dogs for air or car travel. I would strongly recommend that Boxer owners avoid the use of this drug, especially when the dog will be unattended and/or unable to receive emergency medical care if it is needed. Submitted by : Wendy Wallner, DVM July, 1997 24 Boxer Behaviors and Training Tips Boxers are social dogs – they want to be with their people and will be an unhappy dog if left alone or separated from their people. Boxers left outside unattended often digs holes or look for escape routes to go find people to be with. Boxers are known as the Clowns of the Working Dogs and remain puppy like through out their life time. Because of their Clownish personalities – training can sometimes be a challenge. Following are some tips for training boxers and boxer behaviors: 1. Vocal Corrections​
. a. This depends on the dog. You do not want to use a loud strong voice for a timid dog. A regular voice is usually sufficient. For a dog that is not timid a stronger tone usually conveys your intent. b. Use a high happy voice for praises. Get crazy – do a happy dance when your dog does what you want. Your neighbors may think your crazy – but your boxer will know they did the right thing. c. Using the word NO is easy, but it is also a very common word. You might try to use “WRONG” or “UNH­UH” as an alternative for incorrect behavior. d. Often times you may want to reward your boxer – but you will not always have a treat handy. Using your voice in a happy way is always available for good behavior. e. Use your voice to “mark a behavior”. If you are watching TV and your boxer sits without being told – it is an opportunity to reward them with a “Good Sit Fido”. Using the command “Easy” or “Settle” when your boxer is just being calm and hanging out is the best way to teach them that command. It comes in handy when company comes over or it’s time to settle down after a play period. 2. Training Time​
. a. The younger the dog – the shorter the attention span. Several short periods of training (commercial breaks) are much better than long periods of training. b. Boxers are smart and get bored with long training periods. They may even not show that they have mastered the trick or behavior – but they are bored and just won’t do it. Then the next time you ask – they do it perfectly. 3. Digging. ​
Do not leave your boxer unattended in the yard. Boxers are curious by nature and again want to be with their people. If left in the backyard alone they may start digging holes or chewing patio furniture. a. Spray bottle or water gun. If you can catch them in the act and give them a quick spray on their bottom. Try not to let them see that you did it. It causes a startle and they will associate it with digging. b. Bury dog poo in the hole. Fill in any holes they have dug with their own poo. Not very exciting treasure for them when they dig up their own poo. c. Mouse traps in the holes. Should only be used with supervision and with extreme caution. 25 d. Dig box. Make a spot in the yard that is the dogs very own place to dig. Some owners have found this very successful, but deterring digging all together is probably a better choice. 4. Chewing. ​
Puppies chew because their teeth hurt. Adult dogs often chew out of habit or out of boredom. Stopping inappropriate chewing quickly is key. a. Substitution. When you catch Fido chewing on something he shouldn’t, tell him WRONG or UNH­UH and take the item away and give him a toy or something he can chew on. b. Shoes, socks, slippers. Do not give Fido any toys that are shoe, sock or slipper shaped. He may think he has the okay to chew any shoe or sock or slipper. c. Taste deterrents. If Fido continues to chew on something and it’s a something that’s difficult to remove from reach (dining room table legs) your local pet store carries items that can be safely sprayed on items that give them a very poor taste, such as Bitter Apple and Triple Bitter. Using hot sauce or powders is not recommended for your pet’s safety. The sprays can also be used on human hands if Fido loves to lick your hands. 5. Counter surfing.​
Some boxer may decide that what is on the kitchen counter is more yummy than in their food bowl. Known as counter surfing this is a habit you want to break as soon as possible. a. Place double­sided tape on the counter edge. The dogs do not like the feeling of the stickiness on their paws. b. The secret squirt gun technique can also be effective. c. A more messy technique is to place cookie sheets with a small amount of water in them. When they tip it over they get wet, so does your floor. d. Tin foil placed along the counter edge can also deter some dogs – they don’t like the sound of it, when they touch it. e. Lastly – high praise when they keep their feet on the floor when something yummy is on the counter goes a long way. 6. Boxer Language & Barking a. Boxers have their own way of communicating sometimes and it’s often referred to as Woo­Wooing. If your boxer does it, you’ll know exactly what we mean. This isn’t a bad thing but obviously isn’t much fun when you’re in the middle of your favorite TV program. Barking can be deterred in many of the same ways as other undesirable behaviors. b. Spray bottle, vocal correction, time out in the crate. 7. Mouthy Boxers​
. Boxers are known for being a very mouthy breed. They may put their mouth over your hand, but not biting. Or they may nibble. This is not an indication of aggressiveness, but an indication they are a boxer. This behavior is not always appreciated and again some of the techniques mentioned earlier are great in deterring this action. a. Spray bottle, vocal correction, bitter tasting sprays. b. Ignore. Your boxer wants to please you and be your buddy, one of the worse things you can do to Fido is ignore him. If he gets mouthy, simply stop play and turn away from him. c. Praise. Immediately on play without mouthiness – lavish praise on your boxer. Give it a name – Easy, Nicely, or Gentle are common. 8. Training Commands​
. Pick your commands and use them consistently. These are just a few that commonly are confused or misused. Make sure all family members use them correctly. 26 a. Down. Use this term for lay down b. Off. Use this term to “get off the couch” or “get off of me” If you use down when you want them to get off, it can be confusing for your pet. c. Leave It. Probably one of the most useful commands. When they are going to touch something they shouldn’t, sniff something they shouldn’t, or even look at something they shouldn’t – using the “Leave It” command is a lifesaver. d. Crate or Kennel. Pick a term and use it consistently. e. Wait. Use wait when it is for a very short time and then they will get to come with you. f. Stay. Use stay when the dog will not be going or it is for a longer stay when you may be out of sight. g. Attention/Look. Great command for having your dog watch you and not the kitty running across the street….or the kite in the park. Too far away to be a leave it, but getting their attention and keeping it. 9. Fearfulness​
. If your boxer is skittish of certain things, such as noises made by the dishwasher or the refrigerator, loud bangs, commotion. Try the following tips. a. Indoor everyday noises. Stay with them near the noisemaker and offer treats & praise when the noise happens. Repeat regularly. Enough repetition and yummy treats and it’s not so scary anymore. b. Outdoor noises. Sometimes these are more difficult to recreate, but go for walks past a school with lots of children, or down a street that you know has a loud vehicle on it. Again treats, praise and repetition can usually diminish if not eliminate the problem. 10. Meeting other dogs​
. Introductions are very important and if not done correctly could ruin the chances for Fido to have some friends. a. Neutral ground. Don’t invite a friend and their pet over and just walk in with dogs nose to nose. Have both dogs on leashes and meet in the yard instead of inside the home. Each go for a short walk and pass each other in opposite directions with a wide margin in between, correcting each dog if they show excessive interest. (Dogs should always walk on the left of the handler – in this exercise, keep the dogs on the outside edges) Slowly reduce the distance between your passings, and eventually stop and talk to your friend keeping each dog on their respective sides. If no aggressiveness is shown, slowly let each of them take turns sniffing one another. If all is well, continue for a short walk with both dogs in the same direction, dogs on the left of each owner. Then make an attempt to go inside, letting the resident dog enter the house first. Play should be monitored closely as first and food/treats should not be brought into the equation until both dogs are relaxed and comfortable. b. Thru the crate. Sometimes dos do not do well meeting on a leash. In those cases, try putting one dog in the crate and letting the other dog come in and meet. After the initial meeting is over and praise has been given, switch positions. If all still seems to be well, a face to face introduction can be done, with at least 1 dog on a leash. c. Staring. If dogs are staring one another down – block their view, get their attention. This is a subtle form of domination; whoever looks away first is the submissive one. Allowing a stare down to continue will often result in an altercation. 27 11. Crate Training​
. Having the peace of mind when you leave your home that you will return to it in the same state in which you left it, or would prefer not to fight for space in the bed, crate training will be your best friend, and Fido’s best friend. a. Select a crate that the boxer has been used to. Changing from a plastic Pet Porter type to a wire crate or from a plastic tray in the bottom to a metal one, can upset your boxer and cause unnecessary grief for both of you. Find out what style, size, height and tray that your boxer has been used to and get the same kind. b. Dogs in general still have some of the basic instincts that their fore­fathers or fore­wolves in this case and having a crate becomes their den. It is their space. c. The crate should be tall enough for the boxer to stand up without out ducking their head, wide enough to turn around and long enough for the boxer to lay on their side comfortably. d. Pottying in the crate can be discouraged by making sure the crate is not too big. Typically a dog will not potty where it sleeps unless the crate is too big – then they will make part of their crate their bathroom and the rest sleeping area. If peeing continues – remove any blankets or crate pads that might be soaking it up – if they are wet – they won’t like it. e. Regular potty breaks should be given. A rule of thumb to use the boxer can hold it for one hour for every month old they are up to 8­9 hours. Puppies need regular potty breaks during the day to aid in housetraining and to prevent illness by trying to hold it longer than they can. f. Going in the crate is usually easily accomplished by throwing a treat in the crate, give the treat command, and praise them when they go in. Some dogs that are more resistant to going in the crate may need a little nudge going in the crate. g. Crate placement is very important and can be the difference between success or not. Put the crate in a place that is family friendly. Somewhere that the boxer is not isolated from the rest of the family when in the crate. Putting the crate in the basement does not usually make for a happy boxer. h. If the boxer is an escape artist and breaks out of the crate – you can put zip ties and carbine clips at every joint along the crate. For plastic crates you can use bungee cords across the front and attached to the sides to keep them from breaking out the door. i. Another trick is to fill a Kong toy with peanut butter, freeze it overnight, and give it to them when you leave in the morning. Frozen peanut butter takes a long time to get out of the Kong. 28 Why Go to Obedience Class Dog training for obedience is the ​
very best thing​
you can do for the relationship you enjoy with your dog, this is why: ●
Basic obedience training makes life simple to your dog and eliminates confusion. Your dog will know his place in the world and understand right from wrong. Dogs really appreciate this black and white view of the world. ●
Fun and rewarding for both you and your dog. ●
You'll have a happy, relaxed and confident dog who you can take anywhere and will be a pleasure to be around. Greater freedom can also be extended to your dog, as he'll be more trustworthy when obedience trained. ●
An obedience trained puppy or dog is a much safer dog. If your dog dashes out the front door you will still have voice control over him. You will be able to call on one of your obedience training commands like "come" "down" or "sit". This is very reassuring for any dog lover. ●
You gain trust and mutual respect with your dog. He understands what is expected of him and knows that you will always be fair and consistent with this. ●
When your dog is trained in obedience he will be fine around friends and kids under supervision. ●
Fulfills some crucial needs in your dogs life including exercise, mental stimulation, spending time with you and providing your dog with a "job". ●
Dog training for obedience greatly reduces the risk of being locked in a dominance struggle with your dog. You'll be his strong and always fair leader, who he'll respect and look to for guidance. ●
Obedience training is a step by step process which you build upon over time. It creates a foundation for your dog to learn additional skills and training commands. Throughout this process your dog will be gaining confidence along the way. 29 Locating an Obedience Class When seeking a training facility there are several things to look for to make sure that you and your boxer have a positive and successful training experience. Where is the class held? If the class is held in the middle of a store with many sightseers lurking, it will be very difficult to concentrate for you and for your pet. How many are in a class? A large class may mean less individual attention. A class with 10 or less is usually a good rule of thumb. Who teaches the class? What type of credentials does the instructor have? How many classes have they taught? How long have they been teaching? What training method is used? A class that fits every dog with a choke chain or a pinch collar when you walk in the door is likely a heavy­handed class and would not be the preferred type of class. A class that is based on positive reinforcement and NILF (Nothing in Life is Free) philosophy is rescues recommended type class. How long is the class session? A class should last from 5 – 8 weeks for at least 1 hour classes, once per week. Anything less is probably not long enough to do you and your boxer justice. How much does the class cost? You get what you pay for – if you sign up at the local pet store with a non­certified store employee as the instructor, it may be cheaper, but not as thorough. They often treat each dog/breed alike and only offer what the booklet indicates. When attending a true training school with a certified trainer, it may cost a little more, but they can also see each dog as individuals and make suggestions to each owner. They are usually more familiar with the different breeds and what may work for one – doesn’t work for another and can offer tips that are breed specific. 30 NO Kitties 101 There are three types of boxer reactions to cats: 1. LUNCH ! 2. So what. 3. And hmmm what’s that, oops my Mom is calling. Boxers with a “Lunch” reaction will probably not be able to cohabitate with a cat. No Kitties 101 will not help. The so what reaction – will easily live with a cat most of the time, but parts of NO Kitties 101 may need to be used occasionally. The one that’s interested but can be redirected – can live with a cat, but the family must be committed to consistent and firm corrections. It’s not easy to teach a dog NO Kitties 101 but it can be done with dedication. ● Keep the dog on a lead AT ALL TIMES when not crated. ● Watch the dog VERY closely. ● EVERY time he looks/stares at kitty, make the dog look away from the kitty while telling them, NO KITTIES! ● Make the dog look directly at you when doing this & every time they even shift their eyes to find the cat. Repeat, “No, BAD DOG – NO KITTIES” ● In the beginning, you usually have to physically turn their head toward you & hold it facing you. ● If the dog doesn't seem to get the point, he will go back in the crate for a while. Then repeat the same thing over and over and over and over and over, etc. ● Eventually they will get it. It may take 1 day, 2 days or 5 days. ● They will learn that if they want to look/chase/taste the kitties, they have very few privileges. ● NO KITTIES can also be used to deter them from little fluffy dogs also. ● Dogs that have made no attempt to go for the cats but are showing a little more interest than normal in them, you can use the phrase 'BE NICE' and they usually start doing the butt wiggle and the kitty gets a boxer slurp. 31 To Breed or Not to Breed 32 33 Choosing a Dog Food Dog food is certainly an important issue. Quite a bit of research by rescue volunteers has been done on the quality of dog food as well as the ingredients. Since there are no FDA regulations for dog food, manufacturers can put anything they wish into it including diseased, dead, or dying animals (even road­kill and cancer riddled animals). The animals that are unfit for human consumption go into the dog food. The cheaper the food, the cheaper the ingredients. Always look at the first 5­7 ingredients in a dog food. Always make sure they use "beef meal" or "turkey meal", etc... because "meal" is the meat of the animal without all the nasty stuff like blood, hooves, hide, stomach, head, feathers, beaks, or carcasses (aka by products). Also look to see if beet pulp is one of the main ingredients. Beet pulp simply firms the dog’s stool. As humans, we think that a firm stool is a healthy stool. However, beet pulp has zero nutritional value and a healthy dogs stool should only be semi firm. Other ingredients which are OK are rice and grains but should be down the list with "meal" as the first ingredient. We prefer to see minimal corn products in the food (corn, corn meal, corn gluten meal, corn syrup, etc) as corn is very difficult to digest, of little nutritional value, and a very common allergen in boxers. So when looking at dog foods and trying to pick one – try to stay with the brand that the foster family was feeding is always the best choice. If a change is warranted do a gradual switch over 25/75 for a couple days – 50/50 for a couple days – 75/25 for a couple days before going 100% with the new food. Your pet’s tummies will appreciate it. The brand of food is your preference of course, but Rescue requires a “premium” brand. ​
​
Feeding a non­premium dog food is similar to feeding your children potato chips and soda for every meal! Typically, if you can buy the food at your grocery store, it’s not considered a premium brand. There are a couple exceptions such as Iams or Pedigree which we would place is on the lowest rung of our acceptable foods ladder and we prefer that you mix these with a higher quality food rather than feeding alone. Some of the top rung foods are Solid Gold, Royal Canin, and Urban Wolf (just to name a few). Some middle rung foods would be Science Diet, Nutro and Eukanuba. Preferences amongst the volunteers vary widely so depending on whom you talk to – what may be recommended. If you have questions about dog food choice – please ask us, we don’t mind at all. Great food comparison tool: ​
http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com 34 Sample Contract FEIN: 04­3610754 MO/Kan Boxer Rescue POB 8151 Topeka, Ks 66608 URL: http://www.critterconnection.com/boxerrescue.html http://www.midwestboxerrescues.com Email: [email protected] OR [email protected] This agreement is made this ​
__________​
day of ​
_________​
in the year ​
___​
by and between ​
MO/KAN BOXER RESCUE​
, hereinafter referred to as "rescuer," and ​
_____________________________; ​
hereinafter referred to as the "adopter." The adopter hereby understands, promises, and agrees that in receipt of this dog to forever release, discharge and covenant to hold harmless rescuer and by other person, firm, or organization charged or chargeable with responsibility or liability, their heirs, administrators, executors, successors, and assigns from any and all claims, damages, and costs, expenses, loss of services, actions and causes of action belonging to the 35 said adopter, arising out of any act or occurrence from the present time and particularity on account of the adoption of: Name:
Number: __ __(tag)/ HomeAgain Chip# _____ __ Sex:
Color:
Date of Birth/Approximate Age: Breed:
BOXER hereinafter referred to as "this dog" or the "dog." The adopter hereby declares that no representations about the nature of the adopted dog, nor any representations regarding the nature and extent of legal liability or of financial responsibility have induced the adopter to sign this contract. In consideration of a donation in the amount of $​
_275.00__​
, the adopter acknowledges the provisions as defined: ● 1 Fee The donation is not a fee or sale price, but a request to defer or reimburse rescuer for any and all medical expenses, or any other expenses incurred by the dog or rescuer to consider the dog for adoption. Copies of all receipts will be provided with each contract, if applicable.The donation fee will be held for seven (7) calendar days from the date of signing to ensure that the dog has made a satisfactory transition. After seven (7) calendar days, the donation fee is non­refundable. ● 2 Spay/Neuter Agreement This is a contract of MANDATORY Spay/Neuter as defined herein. 2.1 Spay Agreement This spay agreement is an agreement that the female dog will not produce a litter of puppies either as purposely bred or by accidental breeding. The rescuer's female dog adopted as a puppy will be spayed prior to adoption. If the dog's health does not allow this agreement to be honored, permanent ownership by the adopter is contingent upon a veterinary statement. This statement will be by the veterinarian that has seen this dog, examined this dog and has evaluated this dog as not yet in emotional and/or physical condition for spay. Based on this situation, 36 rescuer, not the adopter, and the veterinarian will extend the length of time to be spayed immediately after the dog's condition has improved. Verification of sterilization by the veterinarian is to be mailed to rescuer within fourteen (14) days of the of the spay. It is the responsibility of the adopter, not the veterinarian, to be sure that rescuer has received this statement. If this agreement is not honored the adopter will acknowledge and agree that the contract has been violated and the adopter will transport the dog back to rescuer with no refund. 2.2 Neuter Agreement The rescued male dog shall be neutered prior to the adoption. Proof of sterilization by the veterinarian must be provided to rescuer and given to the adopter. If the health of the dog delays the neuter, the veterinarian that has seen this dog, examined this dog, and evaluated this dog must provide a statement to inform as to why the neutering cannot be done and when it can. Rescuer will then reidentify the guidelines based on the dog's condition. It is the responsibility of the adopter, not the veterinarian, to be sure that rescuer has received this statement. If this agreement is not honored the adopter will acknowledge and agree that the contract has been violated and the adopter will transport the dog back to rescuer with no refund. ● 3 Collars and Tags The dog will not wear a pinch (cleat) collar or any similar article around the neck for the purpose of any basic training, any basic correcting, or for permanent use of identification. The pinch (cleat) collar is only to be used to correct a behavior problem which is an isolated incident and only under the guidance of a professional dog trainer, then not to be used for any other reason. The dog shall at all times be required to wear a nylon belt or snap­release buckle collar with the rabies tag, microchip tag, identification tag (displaying the home address and the county license) and rescue tag. The chain collar (often referenced as a choke chain or referred to as training chain) will only be used to walk the dog on a leash. A leash is required when the dog is taken out in a public area which enforces a leash law, any area which requires total control over the dog at all times, and any area which requires the dog to be leashed at all times when walked in a residential area. The dog will not be let ‘off­lead’ outside of a fenced area for a period of time to be determined at the time of adoption; but the minimum will be for 90 days. ● 4 Transfer of Ownership The dog shall not be sold, given to, or adopted to anyone else, nor shall there be any transfer of ownership to any firm, corporation, or organization of other homeless animals, such as another rescue facility, or research facility. The dog adopted from rescuer must be returned to rescuer if for any reason the adopter can no longer keep it. Violation of this agreement will result in court costs and attorney fees payable by the adopter if necessary for to rescuer to redeem the dog. ● 5 Training The adopter promises that under no circumstances will the dog be trained to develop a dual personality, as defined: no protection, attack, schutzhund, or guard dog training is permitted. The dog will not be encouraged to show any aggressive or agitated behavior. The dog will be a family member only and only participate in good citizen, basic obedience, search and rescue, therapy dog training, or service dog training. The dog will not be maintained as property or for the purpose of being a deterrent due to size, appearance, or display and encouragement of territorial behavior. ● 6 Environment The dog shall reside indoors, in the adopter's home, and live as a family member and companion only. The dog will not be kept outdoors 37 during the adopter's working hours, or at any other time left alone outdoors while the adopter is not at home. The dog may be confined to a room such as a bedroom or basement or any other room of adequate size and protected from the elements of weather. The adopter is not to expose the dog to harmful objects, poisons, or other living creatures that may endanger the dog's life. The dog may be crated for no longer than eight(8) ­ ten(10) hours in a single stretch during a twenty­four(24) hour period of time. The crate must be large enough for the dog to stand up in, and turn around in as well as having the proper floor of the crate for the dog to lie comfortably on it's side. An outside shelter such as a dog house is not acceptable as residence but can be used only when needed in extreme heat, cold, or rain when the dog is let out into the yard for short periods of time and only when the adopter is at home. ● 7 Health Program The rescuer's dog adopted as a puppy shall begin heartworm preventative at four(4) months of age when receiving the rabies shot as required by law. The dog shall remain on heartworm preventative ​
year round with yearly testing​
throughout the entire lifespan of the dog. Rescuer reserves the right to verify with the adopter's veterinarian that the heartworm preventative has been purchased and that the dog has a yearly blood test for this purpose. The dog shall also have yearly booster shots of DHLPP and bordetella. The adult dog when adopted will be seen by a veterinarian within five(5) days of receipt of the adoption contract to start the heartworm preventative program and to get a fecal test done to be sure the dog is free of parasites. Rescuer reserves the right to check with the veterinarian at anytime to verify that all the basic health requirements are being done. Renewal of rabies vaccine is required by law and therefore by the terms of this contract ● 8 Important Notice Temperament Rescuer makes no explicit or implicit guarantees in reference to the health and/or temperament of the dog. The dog is adopted "as is" and the adopter assumes all responsibility for treatment of any and all existing conditions or any other conditions of physical or temperament changes that may occur. Rescuer will provide the dog with the basic vaccines and heartworm test before adoption if the age and current health of the dog permits. While the rescuer makes every effort to place only healthy animals, the rescuer cannot guarantee the health of any animal and shall not be held responsible for any medical expenses which may be incurred, hereby expressly excluding any implied or express warranties of merchantability or fitness for any particular purpose, including, without limitation, any warranties regarding health, temperament or whether the animal is housebroken. ● 9 Remedy For Non­compliance It is agreed that rescuer shall retain superior title in said animal limited to and for the express purpose of assuring the animal's well­being and only exercise its superior claim in the event it appears to rescue that the proper and humane care as specified in the above adoption provisions is not being afforded said animal, in which case the animal may be taken through a claim and delivery proceeding. The adopter further agrees that if there is any breach or default of the terms of this contract, and the dog must be redeemed through a claim and delivery service, that the adopter will be held liable for all court costs and fees for the adopter's attorney and for rescuer's attorney. This has been read to the adopter and explained to the adopter. The adopter has read this, understands and agrees to this and is signing this contract. ● 10 Cosmetic Surgery Unless directed by a licensed veterinarian for reasons related to the health and welfare of the dog, cosmetic surgery will not be performed under any circumstances, including but not limited to tail docking or ear cropping. 38 ● 11 Transportation The dog will not ride in the back of a pickup truck under any circumstances including those such as in a cage/kennel, or tied. The dog shall not remain in any vehicle in extreme heat, with windows down, or unattended for any amount of time. ● 12 Adequate Fencing The adopter agrees that the definition of an adequate fence is a fence that encloses a yard or a large pen, larger than the outdoor kennels. An adequate fence is one that prevents the dog within to go out of the area by jumping, digging, or exiting through gates not properly secured. The fence will prevent any other animal from entering the property the dog lives on and will be secure enough to prevent intruders or small children from easily gaining entry. The adequate fence does not include a split rail or electric fence.** A shock or electric collar is not acceptable.** A kennel environment is not acceptable for housing, safety, or the emotional well being of the dog. If the dog should be able to jump over, or dig under the fence it is no longer an adequate fence and must be repaired by raising it to six(6) feet or sealing any and all weak spots immediately. This decision on whether a home is adequately fenced will be made by rescuer, not by the adopter. While the fence is not serving the purpose the adopter shall not leave the dog unattended in the yard at any time. **Invisible or underground fencing may be acceptable but only under constant supervision and never unattended. This type of fencing does require pre­approval.** ● 13 Rescuer's Reservation Of Rights Rescuer reserves the right to follow up on this adoption to inspect the animal and where the animal is kept for the sole purpose of determining compliance with the terms of the within contract by making a personal visit to the premises of the adopter at anytime during the entire lifespan of the dog. If the terms and conditions of this contract are not upheld by the adopter and/or any misrepresentations have been made to by the adopter, rescuer reserves the right to terminate this contract and the adopters will agree to allow a representative of rescuer to reclaim the dog without notice or refund. The adopter further agrees to pay liquidated damages in the amount of fifty dollars per day for every day that the adopter fails to comply with the agreement terms or willingly surrender the dog at time the incident has become knowledge to rescuer. Rescuer's reservation of rights also includes not adopting a dog into an area or environment that may endanger the life of the dog, which includes relocating with the dog after the adoption agreement. If the dog becomes lost, seriously injured, and/or permanently disfigured, or for any reason the dog dies the rescuer must be notified immediately. 39 The adopter also acknowledges that if the dog must be returned for any reason, at any time, it is the responsibility of the ​
ADOPTER​
to deliver the dog; all collars/leashes/tags and records to the location of the RESCUE’S​
choosing. As stated in Section 1 above, all donation/fees are non­refundable after 7 days. ● 14 Adopter's Acknowledgment of Terms I hereby acknowledge receipt of the above described animal and therefore agree to the following terms: A. The dog is not to reside anywhere without a fenced yard or pre­approved alternative. B. The dog will not be chained to a doghouse or chained outside to any type of object or outbuilding. C. The dog is not to live in a garage, doghouse, or any type of outbuilding. D. Shelter from weather must be provided for the dog at any time that the dog is outside if the weather is extreme heat, extreme cold, or any other weather conditions that may endanger the health of the dog. E. The dog is not to remain solely in a crate while indoors, only while the adopter is not at home, if at all, and not for more than eight(8)­ten(10) hours a day. F. While the adopter is at home, the dog is not to remain solely in one room, not to be confined to either the crate or a room, and must have free roam of the house as a family member. G. The dog is not to be left with small children at anytime when unattended by an adult. H. The adopter must provide rescuer with the name of the veterinarian the dog is going to and notify rescuer if there is a change. I. The dog must remain on heartworm preventative all year round. J. The dog shall not be trained, encouraged, nor misrepresented for the purpose of protection, aggression, or any aggravated display of behavior. K. The dog is to have adequate food, water and shelter at all times. L. The adopter shall refrain from physical abuse of the animal and from otherwise treating the animal in an inhumane manner. ● 15 Change of Address and Notification The adopter agree to notify no more than ten(10) days prior to change of address, change of environment that will affect the dog, or any incident involving animal control and/or complaints arising from said ownership of the dog. ● 16 Costs of Enforcement Should it become necessary for to take action to recover an adopted dog or otherwise enforce the provisions of 40 the adoption contract agreement, the undersigned adopter(s) will be responsible for all court costs and all attorney fees representing either the adopter or rescuer. ● 17 Confidentiality This is a confidential agreement between the adopter and the rescuer. ● 18 Right of Ownership The dog adopted from rescue is "sole property" of rescue and has been surrendered as such by private owners or animal facilities that have signed a statement agreeing that the above mentioned dog is not owned property of any other person, firm or organization. Rescuer shall not be held liable, charged, or chargeable for any misrepresentations unknown to this rescuer. ALL BOXERS UNDER 2 YEARS OF AGE ARE REQUIRED TO COMPLETE A BASIC OBEDIENCE CLASS WITHIN 3 MONTHS OF PLACEMENT. It is encouraged that all adopted boxers attend, but determination will be made on a case by case basis on dogs over the minimum age. ● 19 Obedience Training Agreement The adopter agrees and promises to enroll said dog in an obedience class within three (3) months of this _____day of _________, ​
____​
The adopter further agrees to go to classes with the dog and start the training on the day the class begins. The adopter agrees and understands that the terms of this training requires completing the entire course. A copy of certificate of completion must be given to rescuer within ten (10) days after completing the course. Private lessons or sending the dog away for training is not acceptable. The adopter further understands that permanent ownership is contingent upon honoring this agreement. If the adopter does not comply with this agreement the dog must be surrendered back to the rescuer immediately. Puppies that have not received all DLHPP vaccinations are not required to attend obedience class nor is it advised. DHLPP Vaccinations are given 3 weeks apart until the full series has been completed. ●
20 PRINCIPLES Adopter understands and agrees to the general tenets: ­agrees no new animals shall be added to the home for a period of 3 months (minimum) after adoption ­agrees in principle to not keep any domesticated animal as an outdoor pet; either in a pen or running loose Adopter further agrees (and initials) _________ I agree that if I fail to comply with the terms of this agreement that I will voluntarily relinquish this pet to Mo/Kan Boxer Rescue. _______ I agree to pay to Mo/Kan Boxer Rescue the sum of $500.00 liquidated 41 damages in the event the terms of this contract are breached; this liquidated damage value being agreed to for the purpose of establishing value of the pet and does not bar Mo/Kan Boxer Rescue from seeking return of the pet by a judicial process or other legal means. Signed This ____ Day Of ________, 20__ Adopter Signature(s): Adopter's Address: City: State: Zip Code: Home Phone: Work Phone: Driver's License Number:
Issuing State: Date Of Birth: Rescuer's Signature(s): Rescue Agency:
MO/KAN BOXER RESCUE Rescue Address: POB 8151 City: TOPEKA State: KS
Zip Code: 66608 Phone: 785­841­7978 Phone: 785­484­3049 or 785­979­2679 FAX: 509­352­6419 Veterinarian
Training Facility 42 _____________________________
Name
_____________________________
Address
_____________________________
City, State, Zip
_____________________________
Phone Number
______________________________ Name ______________________________ Address ______________________________ City, State, Zip ______________________________ Phone Number 43 Taking Your Boxer Home
DO’S AND DO NOTS ●
Make sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of the dog’s reach. This includes under cabinet, the basement and garage. ●
Move or preferably remove all poisonous plants. ANY floor plant should be removed from the Boxer’s area at least initially. ●
If the Boxer can reach “it”; “it” stands a chance of being chewed on. ●
Decide on a call name and use it consistently. The name given to the Boxer in rescue is for our records and will be maintained that way, however you are free to rename the Boxer whatever you want. Remember, though, we do not know how many names this Boxer has had. If you do give the Boxer a new name, try to keep it simple and remember to be patient and use their new name positively. ●
Limit ALL visitors for the first week. Give the Boxer a chance to settle in and get a routine established. Keep in mind that the Boxer has been uprooted from the secure environment they knew (foster home) and will be lost and unsure. Additional people swarming them can make them tense or overly protective. If you must have visitors, then secure the Boxer in his crate before the visitors arrive. ●
Do NOT try to take neighborhood walks, make trips to the dog park or pet store for that first week. Practice leash walking around your yard to give the Boxer a chance to get used to you and to walking with you. Be sure to make the Boxer sit and wait upon approaching ANYONE new; human or canine. ●
Establish the feeding routine and stick to it. If the Boxer is used to eating in his/her crate, continue that practice. If there are other dogs or cats in the household, do not let them eat together as the Boxer MIGHT be food protective. Keep in mind that many of our dogs had to fight for food at some point in their lives and they may feel threatened by another dog eating within close proximity. Please use the food that was being used in the foster home. If you want to switch your Boxer to another premium dog food, do so gradually over a two week period; mixing the new and old foods. ●
Keep the new Boxer on lead in the house for that first week, to establish housebreaking routines. It will take at least that long for you to understand and establish the signals to go outside between you. Do NOT use a doggy door initially as you will not be sure that the Boxer is accomplishing the goal of telling you when they need to go outside. ●
Do not leave the Boxer alone with small children, do not disturb them when they are asleep and keep their crate accessible to them at all times. Keep in mind that your family are strangers and let the Boxer integrate into the household at their own rate. ● If you have other pets, remember they KNOW you, and KNOW your routine. Do not expect the new Boxer to come into your home with the same levels of understanding. You have to start from scratch and establish your rules and your understandings of the dog. The foster home has 44 established a base­line, but that will not automatically transfer to your home; you have to make it work for you, also. 45 What Happens Now…. You and your family have just completed your home visit with one of our volunteers. Following is an outline of how the adoption process should proceed: ● The volunteers who completed your home visit will now produce a report summarizing their observations. This report is not an approval or denial for adoption, but simply helps us get an impression of your home life and what type of dog would work best for you. ● After the home visit report is completed, it will be posted to our group. Shortly thereafter, you will receive an e­mail acknowledging your recent home visit and advising that you may now begin contacting the coordinators for the various groups within Midwest Boxer Rescue about specific dogs you may be interested in. (Please allow 5 working days from the date of your home visit to receive this email) ● When you contact one of our coordinators, they will review your application and home visit report to determine if you are a potential match for the dog you expressed interest in. If the coordinator feels you are a good candidate, they will put you in touch with the foster home to discuss the dog in more detail. If the coordinator does not feel you are a good match, they may suggest other dogs, or it’s even possible that there might not be a dog in the program that meets your needs. ● If all goes well and the foster home and coordinator feel you are a good potential home for their rescue, they will want you to come meet the rescue along with your family and current pets. At that time, prior to making any travel/meeting arrangements, you will need to re­contact the program coordinator one last time to discuss adoption. This last step is critical to making sure everyone is up to date on what is going on and enables us to make the transition as smooth as possible for everyone involved. ● Be prepared to discuss travel arrangements. At ​
a minimum a seatbelt harness is required​
, but ​
a crate is preferred​
. You may also need to purchase a crate similar to the one being used in the foster home. Not every crate works for every dog. ● Adoption requirements do vary from each group with regard to heartworm preventative, obedience classes, fenced yards and adoption fees. Mo/Kan Boxer Rescue
Phone: 785­979­2679
Liz Phillips ​
[email protected]
Joyce Peckham ​
[email protected]
Missouri Valley Boxer Club – Boxer Rescue Phone: 712­566­4077 or 402­553­0477 Lee Mitchell – ​
[email protected] Annmarie Andersen – ​
[email protected] Shelly Staats – ​
[email protected] ​oxer Schnauzer Rescue of the Ozarks B
Phone: 417­988­4441 Jennifer Kimberlin – ​
[email protected] 46 Friends of Boxer Rescue ​
Veterinarians: Cavanaugh Pet Hospital Dr Curt Cavanaugh 816­220­2233 2400 W. South Outer Road Blue Springs, Mo 64015 Highland Park Animal Hospital Dr. Leon Connor 785­232­2205 2061 SE California Ave Topeka, KS 66607­1443 VCA 24 Hour Emergency Critical Care & Specialty Referral Hospital 913­722­5566 5914 Johnson Drive Mission, KS 66202 Northrock Hospital for Animals PA 316­636­1200 8338 E. 29th St. North Wichita, KS 67226 Rolling Hills Dr Candace Stormer 573­449­7387 3505 Buttonwood Dr Columbia, MO 65201 47 Springfield Veterinary Center (417) 887­8030 3300 E. Battlefield Springfield, MO 65807 Blue Pearl 24 Hour Emergency Services 913­642­9563 th​
11950 West 110​
St Overland Park, KS 66210 816­524­4990 3495 NE Ralph Powell Rd Lee’s Summit MO 64064 Weathered Rock Veterinary Clinic Dr Gregory Popp 573­634­2223 2224 Weathered Rock Rd Jefferson City, MO 65101 48 Obedience Classes Kansas City 'Metro' area: Gentle Dog Training.com WE CAN TRAIN ANY DOG NO choke, NO prong collars Phone: Call 24/7 (913) 909­9609 Web: ​
www.gentledogtraining.com Perfect Puppy, LLC Obedience Training Olathe, KS 66062 Phone: (913) 829­8710 Web: ​
www.perfectpuppyllc.com Midwest Animal Behavior Center Marilyn Moore, Animal Behaviorist & Trainer 11004 McGee Street Kansas City, MO 64114 Phone: (816) 941­3589 E­mail: ​
[email protected] The Dog Obedience Group SW 3707 US­40 Blue Springs, MO 64015 Phone: (816) 228­4567 E­mail: ​
[email protected] Web: ​
www.dogwizard.com We are strictly motivational trainers (no chain or pinch collars). We also offer a 10% discount for rescue dogs. 49 The Dog Spot Dog Training Center 7620 N. Oak Trafficway Gladstone, MO 64118 816­436­SPOT (7768) Web: ​
www.thedogsspot.com K­9's in Motion 1221 SE Broadway, Suite C Lee's Summit, MO 64081 816­824­5667 E­mail: ​
info@k­9sinmotion.com Web: ​
www.k­9sinmotion.com Topeka area: Camo Cross Dog Training 3526 SE 21st​
​ St Topeka, KS 66607 Phone: (785) 408­6172 Email: [email protected] Web: ​
www.camocrossdogtraining.com Wichita area: Wag'en Tail Ranch 6106 W. 69th North Valley Center, KS 67147 Phone: (316) 755­1461 Web: ​
www.wagentail.com Websites​
: Tags for Martingale Collars and More www.boomerangtags.com Pet Safety Strap for seat belt harness www.hunterk9.com/site/870877/product/SB14978 Carabiner Clip for Dog Tags www.rubitclip.com Seatbelt Harness and Safety Strap www.petautosafety.com 50 Home Visit Report Home Visit person: NAME: DATE: EMAIL ADDRESS: PHONE NUMBER: *************** POTENTIAL ADOPTER INFORMATION (PLEASE VERIFY) NAME: ADDRESS: PHONE NUMBER: ___________________________________________________________________________ WERE ALL HOUSEHOLD MEMBERS (THIS WOULD INCLUDE ROOM­MATES) PRESENT FOR HOME VISIT? _____ LIST NAMES & RELATIONSHIP (INCLUDE AGE OF ALL CHILDREN) **************** LIVING ARRANGEMENTS **************** TYPE OF RESIDENCE (HOUSE, DUPLEX, CONDO, APT, MOBILE HOME)? DO THEY OWN OR RENT? IF OWNED, WHO’S NAME IS ON THE MORTGAGE (FOR NON­MARRIED APPLICANTS)? IF RENTING, DO WE (MWBR) HAVE RENTAL AGREEMENT ALLOWING DOGS OVER 50 LBS?
DO THE DOORS/STORM DOORS CLOSE PROPERLY BEHIND YOU? DO THE LATCHES WORK? DO YOU SEE DAMAGE TO THE HOUSE BY THE DOGS? ARE THERE HOUSE PLANTS (MANY ARE POISONOUS)? DO THEY HAVE A FIRST AID KIT (OR EQUIVALENT OF ONE)? ____________________________________ IS THERE EVIDENCE OF SMALL CHILDREN (TOYS, FOOD SCRAPS)? REMIND ADOPTERS THAT DOGS WILL DESTROY THEM IF NOT PUT AWAY. ARE THERE SEWING KITS, BOBBI PINS, WASH CLOTHS, SPONGES, SMALL TRASH CANS, RAZOR BLADES, ETC. AT DOG LEVEL? AT COUNTER LEVEL? POINT THEM OUT & DISCUSS COUNTER­SURFING. _____________________________ DO THE FURNISHING OF THE HOUSE APPEAR TO BE DOG PROOF (GLASS OBJECTS OR DRIED FLOWERS AT LOW LEVELS, EXPENSIVE RUGS OR FURNITURE THAT COULD BE KNOCKED OVER EASILY)? POINT THEM OUT. 51 ARE THERE EXPOSED ELECTRICAL CORDS? POINT THEM OUT. ARE THERE CHEMICALS IN THE GARAGE, BASEMENT OR STORAGE AREAS WHERE A DOG COULD GET TO THEM? POINT THEM OUT. HOW IS THE TRASH HANDLED IN THE HOME? ___________________________________________________ CAN THE DOG GET INTO THE CANS? IF YES, DID YOU SUGGEST ALTERNATIVES? ___________________________________________________ ***************** FENCE & YARD *****************
HOW BIG AN AREA IS FENCED? IF THE DRIVEWAY IS ENCLOSED, IS THERE ANITFREEZE ON THE DRIVEWAY? DESCRIBE FENCING MATERIALS.
IS THE AREA PROPERLY SHADED? ___________________________________________________________ FLOORING OF THE DOG KENNEL OR YARD? HOW IS WASTE REMOVED? DOES THE AREA LOOK RECENTLY CLEANED?
WILL DIGGING CREATE MAJOR PROBLEMS WITH LANDSCAPING? ____________________________________ WHAT PLANTS ARE IN THE DOG YARD (WHICH MIGHT BE POISONOUS)? _____________________________ ARE THERE LOCKS ON THE GATES (AGAINST CHILDREN & THIEVES)? ______________________________ IS THERE ANYTHING STACKED NEAR THE FENCE THE DOG COULD CLIMB ON TO GET OUT? _
ARE THERE POTENTIAL ESCAPE ROUTES? (LOW PLACES IN THE FENCE, EVIDENCE OF DIGGING AT THE FENCE LINE, HOLES IN FENCING, LOOSE OR TOO­HIGH GATES?) POINT THEM OUT. ________________ DO YOU THINK A DOG WOULD HAVE ESCAPED IF YOU HAD NOT POINTED OUT THE PROBLEM? __
ARE THERE PLACES WHERE THE DOG CAN LEAP OFF DECKS, ETC & GET HURT? __
IS THERE A SWIMMING POOL, HOT TUB, ETC & IS SAFELY FENCED OFF FROM THE DOG POSSIBLY GETTING INTO IT? ANY SHARP OBJECTS THAT COULD INJURE THE DOG IN THE DOG YARD?
HOW DOES THE FAMILY RESPOND WHEN YOU POINTED OUT THESE POTENTIAL DOG HAZARDS? N/A DO YOU THINK THEY WILL FIX THE PROBLEMS? ****************** NEIGHBORS **************** 52 IS THE FENCE SHARED WITH NEIGHBORS?
ARE THERE LOOSE DOGS IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD?
ARE THERE CHILDREN IN NEIGHBORING YARDS? ARE THERE DOGS OR LIVESTOCK ON NEIGHBORING PROPERTY?
CAN ANY OF THEM GET INTO YOUR DOG YARD? DESCRIBE SURROUNDING AREA (RURAL, SUBURBAN, URBAN). _____________________________________ WHAT POTENTIAL HAZARDS ARE THERE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD/COMMUNITY? ________________________ ******************* CURRENT PETS ******************* DID YOU CONTACT VETERINARIANS OFFICE? ARE CURRENT PETS CURRENT ON VACCINATIONS? IF DOG, IS IT ON YEAR­ROUND HEARTWORM PREVENTATIVE? DOGS – _
ARE THE CURRENT DOG(S) WELL SOCIALIZED? ARE THEY REASONABLY CLEAN? ARE THEY HAND SHY IN ANY WAY? CAN YOU TOUCH THEIR EARS & TAILS? ARE THEY FRIENDLY & DO THEY APPROACH YOU IN A FRIENDLY MANNER? HOW DO THEY REACT TO STRANGERS IN THE HOUSE? HOW DID THEY GREET YOU? AFTER YOU HAVE SPENT SOME TIME WITH THEM, DO THEY RELAX & ACCEPT YOUR PRESENCE? __________ IF YOU BROUGHT A DOG WITH YOU, HOW DID DOG INTERACT WITH NEW DOG? ________________________ HOW DO THEY REACT TOWARDS THEIR OWNERS, AND DO THEY RESPOND TO COMMANDS? IF NOT, HOW DOES THE OWNER HANDLE IT? (ARE THEY HEAVY HANDED OR ACCEPTING? DO THEY FORCE THE ISSUE OR ACCEPT THE DISOBEDIENCE?) CATS – HOW DO THEY REACT TO STRANGERS IN THE HOUSE? HAS CAT BEEN AROUND DOGS BEFORE? WHERE ARE FOOD & WATER DISHES LOCATED? 53 WHERE IS LITTERBOX KEPT? HOW DO THEY PLAN TO KEEP DOG OUT OF FOOD & LITTERBOX?
ASK IF THERE IS GROOMING EQUIPMENT & WHERE IS IT KEPT? IF YOU BROUGHT A DOG WITH YOU, HOW DID CAT BEHAVE? DO THEY UNDERSTAND THAT EVEN MOST CAT FRIENDLY DOGS MAY CHASE CAT IF CAT RUNS?
******************* INDOOR LIVING ARRANGEMENTS **************** WHERE WILL THE DOG BE WHEN COMPANY COMES? (CRATED IN THE BASEMENT, OUTSIDE, INSIDE, OTHER?) WHERE WILL THE DOGS SPEND THE DAY? WHERE WILL THE DOG’S CRATE BE LOCATED? DISCUSSED POSSIBLE DAMAGE IF DOG ISN’T CRATED WHILE THEY’RE GONE? ________________________ WILL THE DOG BE ALLOWED ON COUCH? _______________________________________________________ WHERE WILL THE DOGS SPEND THE NIGHT? _____________________________________________________ WILL DOG BE ALLOWED IN BED? ************************* FOR THE ADOPTED BOXER ************************* DO THEY HAVE PRIOR DOG EXPERIENCE? _____________________________________________________ DO THEY HAVE PRIOR BIG DOG EXPERIENCE? IF THEY HAVE CHILDREN, HOW DID THE CHILDREN INTERACT WITH DOG (GENTLE, ROUGH, PLAYED, CUDDLED, FEARFUL, IGNORED)? DO THEY GET TOGETHER WITH FRIENDS/FAMILY THAT HAVE DOGS? WHAT SIZE & SEX ARE THESE DOGS? ________________
HOW LONG IT TAKES TO GET TO THE NEAREST EMERGENCY VET? ___________________________________ ASK WHAT KIND OF DOG FOOD DO THEY PLAN ON FEEDING THE DOG? _______________________________ IF NOT A PREMIUM BRAND, DID YOU EXPLAIN THAT WE REQUIRE A PREMIUM DIET & WHY? WHAT TYPE OF CONTAINER WILL DOG FOOD BE STORED IN? WHERE WILL THE FOOD BE STORED? DISCUSSED BLOAT & WAYS TO REDUCE RISK (ELEVATED FEEDING DISHES, LIMITED ACTIVITY, SCHEDULED FEEDINGS)? 54 D​
IF THIS IS A 2N
​
DOG, DISCUSSED THE NEED TO SCHEDULE FEED (DISCONTINUE FREE FEEDING)? ARE THEY AGREEABLE TO THIS? DISCUSSED HEARTWORM & MONTHLY PREVENTATIVE YEAR ROUND? DO THEY UNDERSTAND DOG CANNOT BE LEFT OUTSIDE WHEN NO ONE IS HOME? CAN SOMEONE COME HOME DURING LUNCH TO LET DOG POTTY? ARE THERE AREAS CLOSED OFF FROM THE DOGS? DO THEY UNDERSTAND THAT MOST RESCUES COME WITH SOME SORT OF BAGGAGE & ARE THEY PREPARED TO WORK WITH IT? DO THEY UNDERSTAND THAT A “GROUP” OBEDIENCE CLASS WILL BE REQUIRED ON DOGS AGE 2 & UNDER? WOULD THEY BE WILLING TO ATTEND OBEDIENCE CLASSES, EVEN IF NOT REQUIRED? _________________ DID YOU LEAVE A SAMPLE CONTRACT? DID YOU EXPLAIN ANY SECTIONS OF THE SAMPLE CONTRACT? ************************* CONCLUSIONS **************** THIS IS YOUR HONEST OPINION,,,,,PLEASE THINK THROUGH ON THIS.
DO YOU FEEL THE ADOPTER WILL LOVE & CARE FOR THE DOG PROPERLY? DO YOU FEEL THIS HOME WILL PROVIDE A PERMANENT HOME FOR THE DOG? IF THIS WERE YOUR DOG, WOULD YOU DO THIS ADOPTION? DOES THIS ADOPTION “FEEL” RIGHT? WHAT TYPE OF DOG DO THEY WANT (SEX, COLOR, AGE, SIZE, ENERGY LEVEL, DOG FRIENDLY, CAT FRIENDLY, KID FRIENDLY)? ARE THEY INTERESTED IN ANY SPECIFIC DOGS? WHAT TYPE OF DOG DO THEY NEED? ************************* MWBR CONCEPTS **************** DID YOU EXPLAIN WHAT COMES NEXT? > HV REPORT COMPLETED & SUBMITTED TO GROUP > YOU WILL RECEIVE EMAIL STATING HV RECEIVED > ONCE EMAIL RECEIVED, YOU MAY CONTACT COORDINATORS REGARDING DOGS YOU ARE INTERESTED IN > ALL PLACEMENT DECISIONS ARE UP TO COORDINATORS 55 > DOGS ARE NOT PLACED IN FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED ORDER. WE ARE LOOKING FOR THE BEST “FIT” FOR EACH DOG, BASED ON THE DOGS NEEDS. > SAME SEX PLACEMENTS CAN VARY FROM GROUP TO GROUP, DOG TO DOG > POST ADOPTION REQUIREMENTS CAN VARY FROM GROUP TO GROUP > IF INTERESTED IN AN OUT OF STATE DOG, THEY WILL BE REQUIRED TO PACK UP THE ENTIRE FAMILY & DOGS TO MEET DOG. 56