A Travel Guide

A
Travel Guide
Best of Los Angeles:
Hotel Deals, Dining, and Attractions 2010
Sunset Travel Guide
Live it up in L.A.
without breaking
the bank
3 | L.A. hotel deals:
Ditch the city’s typically luxe price tag
and check in for less
5 | Bargain 90210:
Bevery Hills for the rest of us, from
spas to shops
7 | Moveable feast:
Dine for less than $10 at L.A.’s
yummiest gourmet food trucks
9 | Taste of L.A.:
Our fave eats, from top splurges to
elegant bargain bar bites
12 | Stargazing:
Soak up the glamour at classic
Hollywood attractions
12
7
2 Sunset Travel Guide
5
16 | Echo Park:
Visit this hood for scenic walks, film
history, and lakeside picnics
17 | Travel Resources
cover: thomas j. story . clockwise from left:Marcy Reiford (on Flickr Creative Commons), gina sabatella (2)
14 | L.A.’s green scene:
Eat, stretch, and shop in Santa
Monica, the city’s wellness capital
Sunset Travel Guide
Figueroa Hotel ‘s Moroccan
splendor below Feel right at
home at Los Feliz Lodge
Ditch the city’s typically luxe price tag and check in for less
Green getaway
L.A. is the quintessential car town. Unless, of
course, you’re staying at the Los Feliz Lodge,
an eco-friendly urban getaway on the border
of the super-hipster Los Feliz and Silver Lake
neighborhoods. With self-check-in and
housekeeping that comes once every three
days unless otherwise requested, the
Lodge—a collection of small casitas and
suites—is more like a vacation rental than a
traditional hotel. The spacious onebedrooms are outfitted with vintage modern
furniture, organic cotton and bamboo linens,
energy-saving appliances, and nontoxic
3 Sunset Travel Guide
cleaning supplies. But the best part is the
proximity to a bunch of Earth-loving shops,
restaurants, and parks. This might be the
place that finally proves that a car-free
Tinseltown is not just the stuff of dreams.
From $150; losfelizlodge.com or 877/660-4150.
Urban oasis
Humphrey Bogart would fit right in at the
Figueroa Hotel, a cinematic Moroccan oasis
in the middle of downtown’s flurry. Designed
in 1925 by the firm of Stanton, Reed, and
Hibbard, this Italian Renaissance–style
building across from the Staples Center was
originally a YWCA. Now, with its soaring tiled
lobby and busy poolside scene, the atmosphere is more akin to an old-fashioned hotel
in Mexico City. Its colorful rooms feature
Hotel Figueroa, Rid Burman
L.A. hotel deals
Sunset Travel Guide
Swanky pool fireplace at Hotel
Angeleno Below The Biltmore’s
stately lobby left Color and touches of
chinoiserie enliven Maison 140’s lobby
Oh-so-L.A.:
movies by the
hotel pool
You don’t have to be a guest to join
the Sunday night poolside flicks at
the W Los Angeles–Westwood.
Grab a lounge chair and free popcorn
by the 15-foot screen. Dip your feet
in the water while you snack on
movie candy, sweet-potato fries, or
wine and cheese plates. Or try the
Backyard restaurant’s bigger bites
($$$), like grilled shrimp tacos. Doors
open at 7 p.m., or call ahead to book
dinner in a cabana. Through Sep;
whotels.com/wlamovienight
Beverly Hills, the stylish creation of interior
designer Kelly Wearstler. From $170;
maison140beverlyhills.com.
Back to the land
Farmer’s Daughter Hotel proves that only in
L.A. could a farm theme be chic. From $169.
www.farmersdaughterhotel.com or 323/937-3930.
So hip
wrought-iron beds and a Moroccan theme,
and most have beamed ceilings. Catch a
concert at the L.A. Live entertainment
complex (lalive.com) before you head back to
North Africa. From $148; $12 parking;
figueroahotel.com or 800/421-9092.
Room with a view
From balconies at West L.A.’s Hotel Angeleno, you look down to the streaming lights
of I-405 and out to the oranges and golds of
Southern California summer sunsets. The
hotel reveals the city in all its contradictory
glory: naturally beautiful and perpetually in
overdrive. Combine that perspective with
this modern icon’s unique design and you
4 Sunset Travel Guide
have a true only-in-L.A. experience. A major
renovation turned the original 1960s circular
tower into a stylish boutique hotel. Inside,
compact but well-thought-out rooms are
coolly sophisticated, with understated
furnishings and a subdued palette of browns
and tans. Sophisticated too are the neighborhoods and attractions within a short drive of
the hotel: Brentwood, Westwood, and the
Getty Center—and with that view, you’ll
never have to worry about listening for the
traffic report. From $169; www.hotelangeleno.
com or 866/264-3536.
Divine design
We’re partial to the tucked-away Maison 140
Ornate splendor
With its elaborate ceilings and ornate lobbies
trimmed in gold, the Renaissance-inspired
Millennium Biltmore Hotel provides the
perfect backdrop for lounging or enjoying
traditional afternoon tea ($28; 213/613-1562 for
reservations) in the gorgeous Rendezvous
Court. From $149; www.thebiltmore.com,
800/245-8673, or 213/624-1011.
Radiant resort
A longtime favorite for business travel, the
724-room Hyatt Regency Century Plaza now
also welcomes those looking for an in-city
resort experience. Rooms all have balconies
and have been redone with plenty of wood
trim and stylish bathrooms. From $188; www.
centuryplaza.hyatt.com or 800/492-8804.
clockwise from top: Christian Horan, millennium biltmore hotel,
Maison 140 Beverly Hills
The Standard - Downtown L.A. has style with
a scene to match. On weekends in particular,
the hotel can be lively (the much-ballyhooed
rooftop bar has vibrating waterbed pods, a DJ
spinning ‘80s music, and a cityscape view
reminiscent of Manhattan); if noise is an
issue, ask about quieter rooms. From $135;
www.standardhotel.com or 213/892-8080.
Sunset Travel Guide
Affordable comforts at
the Crescent Hotel
right Luxe Louis
Vuitton at Fashionpile
cushy sofas in the lounge with an indooroutdoor fireplace feels very swank. From $175;
crescentbh.com or 310/247-0505.
Beverly Hills for the rest of us, from spas to shops
Many think of Beverly Hills as a faraway
place reserved for privileged playboys and
the Hollywood haves. However, a Beverly
Hills getaway can be had at a more modest
budget. We road-tested a weekend of cocktails, shopping, chic restaurants, poolside
lounging, and posh digs, and discovered that
even in Beverly Hills, you can get a lot of
bang for your buck.
5 Sunset Travel Guide
$175: A stylish home base
For your pied-à-terre, check in at the Crescent Hotel. Built in 1926 as a residence for
silent-film stars, this sleek little 35-room
boutique hotel has a prestigious address
around the corner from Rodeo Drive and is
within walking distance of everything, but
with a nightly rate that won’t make you
swoon (compared with the $500-and-up
Beverly Hills Hotel). Bonus: Relaxing on the
Free: Ogling luxury handbags
If glamour and glitz is your thing, duck into
Fashionphile, a handbag consignment shop
with shelf after shelf of limited-edition,
gently worn luxury bags: Vuitton, Chanel,
Gucci, Hermès. It turns out that the term
“bargain” is relative in Beverly Hills: Even
secondhand, many items (except for a $125
gina sabatella (2)
Bargain 90210
$10: A touch of Hollywood
To get your bearings, hop on the Beverly Hills
Trolley for a 40-minute tour. Okay, so you’ll
never be mistaken for a local on this thing,
but you get a ride through the leafy, winding
roads of the 6-square-mile town. Your guide
might burst into occasional song and celebrity impersonations while pointing out landmarks: the Beverly Wilshire (Pretty Woman)
Hotel, countless designer stores, and
mansions of old-time stars like Clark Gable,
Gene Kelly, and Charlie Chaplin. Sat–Sun;
Rodeo Dr. at Dayton Way; beverlyhills.org or
310/285-2442.
» More ways to feel the star power Check
out vintage photos of icons like Mick Jagger
and Marilyn Monroe at Celebrity Vault (free;
345 N. Canon Dr.; thecelebrityvault.com or
310/858-7815). Screen one of the 150,000
historic TV shows and radio or new-media
clips at the Paley Center for Media (closed
Mon–Tue; free; 465 N. Beverly Dr.; paleycenter.
org or 310/786-1000). Or wander the gardens at
Greystone Mansion (free; 905 Loma Vista Dr.;
beverlyhills.org or 310/285-6830), a 1920s estate
that’s been the scene of society life, high
drama, and real-life murder mysteries.
Sunset Travel Guide
Rodeo Drive is one of Beverly
Hills’ iconic arteries
right L.A.’s most lauded
cupcakes
» More spots to get a cocktail Try the
happy-hour martinis and budget-friendly
appetizers at Luxe Hotel’s Café Rodeo (from
$3.60; Mon–Sat; 360 N. Rodeo; 310/273-0300).
The outdoor tables on Rodeo have stellar
people-watching. At the Beverly Hilton,
Trader Vic’s Lounge is a happening poolside
spot for Polynesian pupus and fruity mai tais
with floating orchids (pupus from $12; 9876
Wilshire; 310/274-7777).
» Another place to get in on the glam
Browse the racks at Anat B, a trendsetting,
affordable (dresses and tops under $40)
boutique with a celebrity clientele. 271 S.
Beverly; 310/385-7917.
$3.25: A decadent treat
So a vintage Chanel may not be in the cards,
but there are plenty of smaller indulgences to
be had, like one of the famous red velvet
cupcakes at Sprinkles. It claims to be the
world’s first cupcake bakery and, with flavors
like chai latte and ginger lemon, takes credit
for the craze. 9635 Santa Monica Blvd.;
sprinkles.com or 888/220-2210.
6 Sunset Travel Guide
$23: An afternoon at the spa
A luxe manicure at Thibiant Beverly Hills skin
clinic includes a trip to the steam room, after
which you’re swathed in a plush robe while
European nail technicians fussed over yourfingers. Curl up with a cappuccino and cookies
on a full-body massage chair in the lounge,
lulled by the sound of the indoor waterfall.
Closed Sun; reservations required; 449 N. Canon;
thibiantbeverlyhills.com or 310/278-7565.
$5.50: Drinks by the pool
Before 5 p.m., anyone who orders a drink can
claim a poolside cabana at the Avalon Hotel
Beverly Hills (which has a glam old-Hollywood
feel—even Marilyn Monroe stayed here).
Order a San Pellegrino in your cabana and
then dip your toes in the hourglass-shaped
pool. For the price of a bottle of water, you can
party like it’s 1959. 9400 W. Olympic Blvd.;
avalonbeverlyhills.com or 310/277-5221.
» More places to grab a bite Brighton
Coffee Shop ($; 9600 Brighton Way; 310/276-
7732) has been a popular breakfast spot with
locals since 1930. For lunch, try LA Food Show
Grill & Bar ($$; 252 N. Beverly; 310/550-9758),
where fusion burgers, salads, sandwiches,
wok dishes, and fish tacos reflect the L.A.
area’s melting-pot diversity.
Free: A Celebrity sighting
Sometimes the most memorable Beverly
Hills moment doesn’t cost a cent. As we
window shopped along South Beverly Drive,
we spotted a tall, tan, handsome gentleman,
who smiled and nodded genially.
Is that who we think it is? Yeah, it’s
George Hamilton. Priceless.
gina sabatella (2)
lipstick case) still have four-digit price tags, a
steal by Rodeo Drive standards. Paying your
mortgage is probably smarter than snagging
a designer purse, but there’s always windowshopping. Closed Sun, by appointment Sat; 9551
Wilshire Blvd.; 310/279-1136.
$50: A swank dinner
Nirvana is a haven for the young and glamorous, but the Indian menu stands on its own.
Save room for halwa, or carrot pudding. Afterward, recline with a martini ($6) on a pillowtopped bed in the restaurant’s nightclublike
bar. From $50 for two; 8689 Wilshire; 310/657-5040.
Sunset Travel Guide
One of the city’s best
ethnic food trucks
below Nom Nom’s
bahn mi
Dine for less than $10 at L.A.’s yummiest gourmet food trucks
The taco truck, of course, has brought mobile
food to the masses for decades. But a little
more than a year ago, the pioneering Kogi
BBQ truck added two new twists: Twitter (to
summon fans to its real-time location) and
culinary novelty (quesadillas with kimchi).
The result? A food-truck explosion with
fanatical followers, and a slew of newcomers
popping up every month—some with
surprisingly gourmet fare. We’ve narrowed
down the long list to our top picks. At $5 to
$10 a meal, they’re the cheapest alfresco
dining in town. No reservations required.
7 Sunset Travel Guide
Basics done better
Baby’s Badass Burgers. Angus beef sliders on
soft Hawaiian sweet buns strike us as more
elegant than badass.
What to try The Cougar, with Saint André
cheese and black truffles.
babysbadassburgers.com
The Gastrobus. Gentrified pub grub with
farmers’ market ingredients and a chef-inthe-kitchen vibe.
What to try Sweet-potato fries and daily
specials like wild mushroom soup.
thegastrobus.com
The Grilled Cheese Truck. We like anyone
who puts mac ’n’ cheese in a sandwich and
drives a bright orange truck.
What to try The Cheesy Mac & Rib.
thegrilledcheesetruck.com
gina sabatella (2)
Moveable feast
Sunset Travel Guide
Caption TK
Let’s Be Frank. The best hot dogs ever—this
is what happens when grass-fed cows meet
artisanal sausage makers.
What to try The Frank Dog.
letsbefrankdogs.com
Mattie’s Southern Kitchen. Fried chicken,
collards, and other soul classics from a North
Carolina good ol’ boy.
What to try Shrimp and grits.
twitter.com/mattieskitchen
Killer ethnic food
Border Grill Truck. The popular restaurant is
taking to the streets with street-food twists
on its Latino eats .
What to try The Peruvian ceviche with lime
and ginger.
bordergrill.com
Dosatruck. Dosas—crisp lentil crêpes with
south Indian fillings—from a truck with a
8 Sunset Travel Guide
Sgt. Pepper–style paint job.
What to try The Slumdog, with potato and
paneer (cheese); wash it down with a ginger
limeade.
dosatruck.com
Fishlips Sushi. Sound fishy? Very—and very
fresh .
What to try The lunch combo, four rolls and
five pieces of sushi, is a jaw-dropping deal
(about $6).
fishlips-sushi.com
Nom Nom Truck. Sandwiches and other Vietnamese chow for the bánh mì–starved
Westside.
What to try The lemongrass chicken tacos
and the barbecue pork bánh mì combo.
nomnomtruck.com
Fusion twists
Flying Pig Truck. Asian riffs on tacos, sliders,
Sugar break
Coolhaus. Ice cream sandwiches from a truck
bedecked with architects’ portraits .
What to try Brown-butter candied-bacon ice
cream scooped between chocolate chip
cookies.
eatcoolhaus.com
Sprinkles Cupcakes. The name says it all.
What to try Red velvet is the best-seller, but
we heart vanilla.
twitter.com/sprinklesmobile
The Sweets Truck. Greatest hits from L.A.’s
best sweetshops—tough to choose.
What to try Cupcake and Pudding Shooters
from Southern Girl Desserts .
thesweetstruck.com
Tip: Track multiple trucks at mobilecravings.
com, findlafoodtrucks.com, and roadstoves.com
gina sabatella (2)
A veggie sourdough dosa
right The friendly scene
outside Dosatruck
and fries that push the art of fusion.
What to try The luscious pork belly slider
with banana mustard.
flyingpigtruck.com
Kogi BBQ. Still drawing crowds for the
Korean-fusion tacos.
What to try The short rib taco remains
the star.
kogibbq.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Taste of L.A.
Our fave eats, from top splurges to elegant bargain bar bites
Angeli Caffé. The 23-year-old pizza establish-
ment, run by Evan Kleiman, a founder of
Slow Food L.A., emphasizes local, seasonal
ingredients. Try July’s garlic-oil pizza topped
with a salad of heirloom tomatoes, arugula,
and fresh mozzarella. $$; phone and fax orders
available; closed Mon; 7274 Melrose Ave.;
323/936-9086.
The Apple Pan. The simple screen doors are
the gates of Eden for burger purists. Go for
the hickory burger. And save room for the
9 Sunset Travel Guide
apple pie. Or a second burger. $; closed Mon;
10801 W. Pico Blvd.; 310/475-3585.
Asia de Cuba. Walk out to see the Land of the
Giants–size terra-cotta pots, and you’ll be in
the best seats at the Mondrian Hotel’s AsianLatin restaurant. Sip a mojito and look out at
the city sparkling below you. $$$$. 8440 Sunset
Blvd.; www.chinagrillmgt.com or 323/848-6000.
Barney Greengrass Restaurant. The top-floor
location of the deli-style dining room in
upscale Barneys New York has beautiful
vistas of residential Beverly Hills. Excellent
smoked fish and authentic, chewy bagels. $$.
9570 Wilshire Blvd., fifth floor, Beverly Hills;
310/777-5877.
Chin Chin. This Chinese cafe opened in the
‘80s, when outdoor dining was a rarity in L.A.
Now diners sit under umbrellas, nibbling
house classics like Sichuan dumplings and
enjoying the town’s best people-watching. $.
8618 Sunset; www.chinchin.com or 310/652-1818.
Ciudad. Stylish and contemporary, Mary Sue
Milliken and Susan Feniger’s nuevo Latino
spot is a stalwart of the Downtown dining
scene. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner nightly. $$$. 445 S.
Figueroa St.; 213/486-5171.
Craft. The buzz Superstar chef-restaurateur
and “Top Chef” judge Tom Colicchio continues to rake in James Beard awards and bestchef nominations. The dining room is packed
with people shelling out big bucks for dishes
like 35-day dry-aged sirloin ($54), scallops
with brown butter ($29), and the tasting
menu ($100). Craftbar next door has one rule:
no dishes over $10. Head to the cabanas for
veal-and-ricotta meatballs ($8) or doughnut
holes with crème fraîche and jam ($7). $$$$;
10100 Constellation Blvd.; 310/279-4180.
Empress Pavilion. If you’ve got a group and
want to dine in authentic Chinatown style,
order the dim sum at Empress Pavilion, the
godmother of Chinese restaurants. $$; 988 N.
Hill St.; empresspavilion.com.
Fig. Santa Monica’s fanciest hotel has a new
bistro, named for the stately 123-year-old fig
tree at the entrance. Chef Ray Garcia is
making the Fairmont Miramar a dining destination again with his commitment to local,
seasonal cuisine—there’s even a forager on
staff who scouts the freshest local ingredients.
Instead of paying $34 for steak frites, show up
for the “Fig at 5” menu, when bar snacks and
glasses of wine are a fiver. The fromager will
andrea m. gomez (2)
The bar menu at Tavern
serves up one of the best
burgers in L.A. right Diners
enjoy cocktails and small
plates at Craft
Diver scallops seared to perfection at Fig below A luscious
lamb duo at Gordon Ramsay
walk you through selections like fresh goat
cheese with kumquats or the best wine to pair
with the super-aged gouda. $$$; free valet parking; 101 Wilshire Blvd.; 310/319-3111.
Figtree’s Cafe. Counterculture-inspired food
since 1978, including tofu scrambles and
cornmeal pancakes with apple butter. Watch
the passing throng of surfers, performers,
and bikini-clad skaters on the endlessly fascinating Venice Boardwalk. $. 429 Ocean Front
Walk, Venice; 310/392-4937.
Gladstone’s Seafood Restaurant. Grab a
picture window booth for 180° views of Santa
Monica Bay and the crashing waves while
you enjoy the standout Fisherman’s Breakfast (two eggs any style with fresh trout or
10 Sunset Travel Guide
swordfish). $$. 17300 W. Pacific Coast Hwy.,
Pacific Palisades; 310/454-3474.
Gordon Ramsay. Right off the London West
Hollywood Hotel’s lobby, the namesake
restaurant from Gordon Ramsay, a Michelinstarred chef (you might know him as the adorably abusive personality on “Hell’s Kitchen”),
has a menu showcasing small plates, local
ingredients, and fresh, clean flavors. Try the
hand-dived sea scallops or the roasted Wagyu
beef sirloin. Futuristic chandeliers and drawing-room glamour to boot. $$$; 1020 N. San
Vicente Blvd.; 310/358-7788.
The Griddle Cafe. This Hollywood hangout
serves tall, buttery stacks of pancakes. With
15 varieties, including pumpkin and espresso
and chocolate chip, it’s no wonder there’s a
celebrity following. Steaming hot coffee
comes in a French press. $. 7916 W. Sunset
Blvd., Hollywood; 323/874-0377.
Guelaguetza. López Mateos’s restaurantstakes its name from Oaxaca’s traditional
July festival. The location may look Korean on
the outside (a former tenant’s decor), but it’s
pure Oaxaqueño within: marimba players
and guitarists perform throughout the week.
The long, detailed menu explains everything
in English. Although it’s not on the menu,
you can order a sampler of moles and
chips—a great way to determine which of
the sauces you want to base your dinner
around. $$. 3014 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles;
213/427-0608.
Il Cielo. The Italian country-style hideaway’s
name means “heaven.” Rustic Italian classics
at this hubbub-free spot aren’t so showy that
they’ll distract you from your date. Don’t miss
the risotto, which changes seasonally. $$$$;
dinner Mon–Sat. 9018 Burton Way; 310/276-9990.
Joe’s Pizza of Bleecker Street. The famed Big
Apple pizzeria expanded in Santa Monica,
delighting lovers of thin-crust, New York–
style slices and pies. Should your cravings
happen in the wee hours, this joint is open
Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m. and
midnight the rest of the week. $; 111 Broadway;
310/395-9222.
Malibu Seafood. For a coastal community
that boasts 27 miles of scenic beachfront,
Malibu has a shockingly low supply of decent
alfresco restaurants with a view of the
Pacific. The modest Malibu Seafood may not
pull in the tourists like some of the other
family-style mega restaurants in the area,
but it’s the only midpriced establishment
with a killer view. Order from the menu’s
daily take of fresh seafood, then wait for your
number to be called on one of the outdoor
wooden benches. When your food arrives,
you can behold the Cinema-Scope breadth of
the ocean right across PCH while chowing
down on fresh mahimahi and swordfish. $-$$;
25653 Pacific Coast Hwy.; 310/456-3430.
Michael’s. Having defined the local take on
California cuisine in the ‘80s, Michael’s has
matured into an L.A. classic. If you’re lucky,
owner-host Michael McCarty (and his twinkleeyed sense of humor) will be in the house. $$$$;
dinner Mon–Sat. 1147 Third St.; 310/451-0843.
Noé Restaurant and Bar. Grab a table outside
to enjoy Robert Gadsby’s progressive American cuisine along with a view of the downtown skyline—and the free Grand
FIG Restaurant Santa Monica, the london west hollywood
Sunset Travel Guide
Sunset Travel Guide
Performances concerts on the main stage at
California Plaza below. $$$. 251 S. Olive St.;
213/356-4100.
Ortolan. Chef-owner Christophe Eme’s highconcept French cuisine at this L.A. hot spot
has earned him a Michelin star, a reputation
for world-class service, and prices to match
(the lavish tasting menu hits three figures). At
the bar, you’ll find small dishes like rich truffle
and bacon quiche ($12) and a bowl of tender
cuttlefish ($10) that aren’t on the main menu.
And the reduced price point doesn’t mean a
reduction in service: Eme even sends out to
bar diners an amuse-bouche like test tubes of
seasonal soup with flavored foams. Plus, a
full-ceiling skylight and a wall of potted herbs
above the bar’s creamy banquettes lend the
place an haute greenhouse vibe. $$$$; 8338 W.
Third St.; 323/653-3300.
Osteria Mozza. Star chef Mario Batali joined
forces with Nancy Silverton (of Campanile
11 Sunset Travel Guide
fame) and Joseph Bastianich (wine authority
and restaurateur). The result is L.A.’s toughest
reservation. Hint: The full menu is available at
the first-come, first-served Mozzarella Bar. $$$;
6602 Melrose Ave.; 323/297-0100.
Palm Restaurant. Urban and clubby with
trademark caricatures of politicos and journalists, it was one of the first higher-end
restaurants to open near the Staples Center
arena. $$$$. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner nightly. 1100
S. Flower St.; (213) 763-4600.
Pizzeria Mozza. The much-buzzed-about
sister restaurant to Osteria Mozza—and yet
another joint venture from Food Network
star Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton of La
Brea Bakery fame—will expand your concept
of pizza. The white anchovies, tomatoes, and
hot chiles atop the signature crispy-chewy
crust are revelatory. $$; 641 N. Highland Ave.;
323/297-0101.
Red Pearl Kitchen. From the staff’s black
kung-fu shirts to the brass Buddha lit by a
flickering candle to the smoky red decor,
there’s something decidedly L.A. noirish
about this dim sum restaurant. The steamed
barbecued-pork buns are phenomenal. $$;
6703 Melrose Ave.; 323/525-1415.
Saddle Peak Lodge. Warmed by a massive
stone fireplace, this wood-timbered lodge
feels like a bit of the Rockies in Malibu
Canyon. It’s known for farm-raised elk and
venison, but steak and salmon are also good
bets. $$$$; closed Mon, Tue. 419 Cold Canyon
Rd.; 818/222-3888.
Tavern. This Brentwood gastropub is the
latest venture from local-food rock stars
Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne (of AOC and
Lucques fame), and is getting rave reviews for
its market-fresh menus and modern-Englishcountry-house decor. The bar is the only place
Tavern’s Niman Ranch burger ($17) is available
in the evening, and it’s one of the best burgers
in the city—especially along with the handcut, sage-dusted fries. You can also mix and
match from the regular menu. $$$; 11648 San
Vicente Blvd.; 310/806-6464.
Tlapazola Grill. Want nouvelle Oaxacan?
Perrier with your mole? This Westside restaurant is the place. The dining room is a study
in white tablecloths and light wood, with
works by local artists on the walls. Amid the
French-influenced Mexican menu are Oaxacan entrées like sliced chicken breast with
two moles and grilled pork loin with mole
amarillo. $$. 11676 Gateway Blvd., Los Angeles;
310/477-1577.
Traxx. If you love to look back at the golden
age of rail travel, book dinner at the elegant
dining room in Union Station. Dishes such as
striped bass with fennel will make you feel as
if the nation’s culinary tracks lead right here.
$$$$; dinner Mon–Sat. 800 N. Alameda St.;
213/625-1999.
Zucca Ristorante. Joachim Splichal serves Italian cuisine in an atmosphere reminiscent of
classic Roman restaurants. $$$. Lunch Mon–Fri,
dinner nightly. 801 S. Figueroa; 213/614-7800.
james carroll, arnold | inuyaki (on Flickr Creative Commons)
A savory plate of heaven at
Michael’s right Assembling
pies at Pizzeria Mozza
Sunset Travel Guide
Griffith Observatory affords a
stellar view of the Hollywood
sign below The Hollywood
Roosevelt Hotel
Soak up the glamour at classic Hollywood attractions
Many Hollywood movie industry attractions—notably the big historic movie
houses—cluster along Hollywood Boulevard.
Others, like the studio tours, are farther flung.
Studio tours
Paramount Studios. Recognized because of
its cameo in Sunset Boulevard, this is the last
major studio remaining in Hollywood; lots of
television history, including I Love Lucy. First
come, first served every half-hour 9–2 Mon-Fri;
$35. 5555 Melrose Ave. (parking on the street or
in the S. Bronson St. lot); 323/956-1777.
Sony Pictures Studio. Best choice for anyone
12 Sunset Travel Guide
interested in classic MGM musicals. Four
tours daily, reservations recommended; $28; no
one under 12 admitted. 10202 W. Washington
Blvd., Culver City; 323/520-8687.
Universal Studios Hollywood. The VIP tour
($239; 818/622-5120) stops at more locations
than the tram tour and also gives you
no-wait priority access on attractions. 9–7
daily; $69, $59 under 2 feet tall. 100 Universal City
Plaza; 818/622-3801.
Warner Brothers Studios. Casablanca was
filmed at this Burbank studio; the two-hour
tour includes a stop at a small studio museum.
Hourly 9–3 Mon-Fri; $48; reservations suggested.
Hollywood Way, Burbank; (818) 954-1744.
Marcy Reiford (on Flickr Creative Commons), jorgemir (on Flickr
Creative Commons)
Stargazing
Sunset Travel Guide
Hurray for
Hollywood: score
last-minute
theater tickets
The silver screen isn’t the only way to
experience a tour de force performance
in Hollywood. Life is a cabaret, and now
at only half the price. Thanks to the L.A.
StageTix program, you can now buy
discounted tickets to live theater performances—sometimes just hours before
the show. From the artistically modern
REDCAT to the bohemian Black Dahlia
Theatre, take your pick of 320 venues
and shows. In Hollywood at 6801 Hollywood Blvd., 323/467-6412; www.lastagetix.
com, or Downtown at 685 S. Figueroa St.,
213/689-8822.
boulevard that still draw industry types. 6667
Hollywood; 323/467-7788.
Movie palaces
A favorite bartender at Musso & Frank Grill left Grauman’s
Chinese Theater above Experience Jaws on the Universal
Studios tour
Historic sites
Formosa Café. Filled with pictures and
memorabilia, a great place for a drink; scenes
from L.A. Confidential were filmed here. 7156
Santa Monica Blvd.; 323/850-9050.
Griffith Observatory. Scene of the famous
knife fight in Rebel Without a Cause has a small
memorial to James Dean. In Griffith Park.
Hollywood Forever Cemetery. Historic cemetery is the final resting place of some of
Hollywood’s greatest legends. Maps ($5) are
available in a small gift shop. 6000 Santa
Monica; 877/844-3837.
Hollywood Heritage Museum. The barn
where Cecil B. DeMille filmed The Squaw
Man is the oldest surviving studio structure
13 Sunset Travel Guide
in Hollywood. Good spot for silent and
pre-1940 film history. 10–4 Sat-Sun; $7. 2100 N.
Highland Ave.; 323/874-2276.
Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel. Site of the first
Academy Awards presentation has a number
of exhibits on Hollywood and movie history.
7000 Hollywood Blvd.; 323/466-7000.
Hollywood Walk of Fame. Strolling the sidewalks embedded with all-time top entertainers’ stars, along with their handpints and
signatures, is like wandering through a living
entertainment museum. Pure Hollywood.
Hollywood Blvd. from Gower to La Brea and Vine
Street from Yucca to Sunset.
Musso & Frank Grill. Lots of Old Hollywood
atmosphere; one of the few spots on the
the film organization American Cinematheque, the 1922 theater hosts ongoing film
series. A new 55-minute documentary, Forever
Hollywood, screens every 90 minutes 11–3:30
Tue-Sun; $11. 6712 Hollywood; 323/466-3456.
El Capitan Theatre. In an earlier incarnation,
it was the Paramount and hosted the world
premiere of Citizen Kane. Disney restored it to
its 1926 mix of Moorish, Indian, and Spanish
design, and it is a showcase for studio
premieres. A live organist often plays before
screenings. From $15; 6838 Hollywood; 323/4677674.
Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Sid Grauman’s
old movie palace is the most famous theater
in the world, thanks to the footprints of the
stars in the forecourt. It’s touristy, but it
delivers and is a memorable place to see a
movie. From $15.75. 6925 Hollywood; 464-8111.
Silent Movie Theatre. Shows classic and
silent films with live musical accompaniment. From $10. 611 N. Fairfax Ave.; 323/655-2520.
clockwise from top: Universal Studios Hollywood, Wha’ppen (on
Flickr Creative Commons), eric castro (on Flickr Creative Commons)
Egyptian Theatre. Restored and updated by
Sunset Travel Guide
Feeling the flow at Yogaworks below Raw vegan
desserts at Euphoria Loves
Rawvolution
Eat, stretch, and shop in Santa Monica, the city’s wellness
capital
The santa monica green scene’s main drag
Main St., between Wadsworth Ave. and
Pacific St. Dress code Hard Tail yoga clothes,
surf shorts, organic cotton and hemp
sundresses, flip-flops. Ride code Bikes,
hybrid cars, and BMWs converted to run on
vegetable oil. City bragging rights Ninth
greenest in the United States. Most sustainable spot in town Santa Monica Main
Street Community Gardens (2200 Main St.;
310/458-8300). Number of garden plots 68
14 Sunset Travel Guide
Best brew Organic Spirit Mint tea at Urth
Caffé ($; 2327 Main St.; 310/314-7040). Number
of parks in town 26 Where to pick up a
Buddha Thai Teak Furniture (2400 Main St.;
310/581-4255). Get a free green-design
consult Green Building Resource Center (call
for hours; 2218 Main St.; globalgreen.org/gbrc).
Find your flow You may find Kate Hudson
or Heather Graham in downward dog on the
mat next to you at Yogaworks, but yoga
teachers such as Vinnie Marino and Sara
Ivanhoe are the real stars here. Classes
attract hard-core yogis, so beginners should
gravitate toward gentle hatha sessions with
Jasmine Lieb, above. Classes from $20; 2215
Main St.; yogaworks.com
Shop for natural threads Natural High Lifestyle boutique proves that your clothes can be
as organic as your produce. They use only
natural fibers like organic cotton, hemp, and
andrea gomez (2)
L.A.’s green
scene
Sunset Travel Guide
More art and
wellness in
downtown
Chinatown
above left Checking out the goods at Green Life rightSanta Monica’s Tao Healing Arts Center
bamboo for their chic but casual clothing and
accessories line. Pick up a biodegradable jute
yoga mat, cotton and hemp meditation cushions, or even a fair-trade balsa wood surfboard
from Ecuador. The shop is cooled by a solarpowered fan and outfitted with bamboo floors
and reclaimed-wood display racks. 2400 Main
St., Ste. A-3; naturalhighlifestyle.com
Try some earthly eats At Euphoria Loves
Rawvolution, an organic, vegan, raw food
joint, health is king. You’ll find no animal products, no gluten, and nothing cooked here (not
even the cakes), but the veggies are fresh and
pesticide-free. Flop on a funky couch and
check out psychedelic spiritual art as you sip
cold tomato basil bisque, drink a Super Breakfast Smoothie, or munch on a green dragon
roll. $; 2301 Main St.; 310/392-9501.
ing, sauna treatments, or classes in qigong
and yoga. For really deep relaxation, book a
session with therapist Charoen Lintong, who
combines shiatsu, Thai, deep-tissue, and
lymphatic-drainage massage techniques. From
$35; 2309 Main St.; thaconline.com
Take it home Stop by Green Life for Amenity
pillows made of a hemp and organic cotton
blend, and stuffed with cotton and fiber from
recycled plastic bottles. Modern silk-screen
patterns in earthy colors are printed with
nontoxic water-based dyes. And they’re stylish to boot. 2409 Main St.; 310/392-4702.
Main streets Broadway and Hill
Street
Get the lay of the land Download a
free neighborhood map (angelswalkla.
org/walks_chinatown.html). You’ll see
Bruce Lee’s former studio and the
Dynasty Center for designer knockoffs.
Brush up on local film lore
Watch Roman Polanski’s Chinatown.
Discover a new favorite artist
Hit studios like the Happy Lion Gallery
(closed Sun; 963 Chung King Rd.;
thehappylion.com); China Art Objects
(closed Sun; 933 Chung King;
chinaartobjects.com); and Sister (closed
Sun; 955 Chung King; sisterla.com).
Get balanced Join Chinatown neighbors in a free tai chi class on the Alpine
Recreation Center lawn each morning
from 6:30 to 9:30 a.m. (you can drop in
at any point). This graceful, slowmoving form of low-impact martial art
is known for building strength and
improving balance. 817 Yale St.; 213/4855448.
Get cultured Stop by the Chua Thien
Hau Temple (750 Yale St.) and leave an
orange for the goddess Lin Meng. Or,
for a history lesson, visit the Chinese
American Museum ($3 donation
suggested; 425 N. Los Angeles St.; camla.
org) to check out photographs of early
Chinatown and items that immigrants
brought from abroad, like medicinal
herbs, parasols, and silk.
Get lucky At Realm (425 Gin Ling Way;
realmhome.com), shop for delicate
ceramic objets d’art and hand-painted
bone-china tea sets. Watch jasmine
pearls unfurl with free tea tastings, then
shop for clothing, figurines, and herbal
remedies at Wing Hop Fung (727 N.
Broadway, Ste. 102; winghopfung.com).
out than a spa. This old-school stop for traditional Chinese medicine and shiatsu massage
is decorated with water features, Chinese
kanji characters, and lanterns. Try acupuncture, craniosacral therapy, nutritional counsel15 Sunset Travel Guide
andrea gomez (2)
Asian-inspired wellness Tao Healing Arts
Center feels more like a neighborhood hang-
Sunset Travel Guide
Echo Park
Visit this hood for scenic walks, film history, and lakeside picnics
Where the action is The five-block radius
around Sunset Boulevard and Echo Park
Avenue.
Creative legacy Before there was Hollywood, Echo Park was the cinematic center of
L.A. and home to silent-film studios.
Famous former residents Gloria Swanson,
Jackson Pollock, and Richard Neutra.
On the big screen Scenes from Chinatown
were filmed here.
16 Sunset Travel Guide
Master the stairs Of the 33 public stairways, we recommend the Laveta Terrace and
Delta Stairways for canyon views. Print out a
map at historicechopark.org
Landmark walk The Los Angeles Conservancy offers walking tours of Angelino
Heights, where guides point out Queen Anne
turrets and towers. $10; first Sat of every month;
laconservancy.org
Weekend brunch Head to the Park restau-
rant for French toast, Cobb salad, or pulledpork sandwiches. $; 1400 W. Sunset Blvd.;
213/482-9209.
Lotus on the lake Echo Park Lake (751 Echo
Park Ave.; laparks.org) transforms into an
aquatic garden through late September, with
lotuses blooming on the water. Palm trees
and picnic tables make this a prime spot for
lounging. Picnic here with goods from the
Echo Park Farmers’ Market (3–7 Fri; on Logan
St. south of Sunset Blvd.; 323/463-3171).
Bohemian haunt Author Ayn Rand made her
home in Echo Park, and the neighborhood’s
literary legacy lives on. At Stories, where the
new-to-used book ratio is 60/40, evening
readings feature local authors of everything
from books on surf culture to graphic novels.
The cafe’s best offering is a turkey-and-pesto
sandwich, made with local ingredients. $; 1716
W. Sunset Blvd.; storiesla.com
Avant-garde art Modeled on an old-time
curiosity shop, Echo Curio holds monthly
shows of quirky community-curated art, with
exhibition topics that run the gamut from
interpretations of cactus to creations with
kites. They also have a “you bring it, we
display it” policy, where oddities contributed
by locals are displayed and sold. Open Sat–
Sun during exhibitions; 1519 W. Sunset Blvd.;
echocurio.com
For movie buffs At Echo Park Film Center,
you can catch festivals and screenings by local
filmmakers in its “microcinema” of seats
salvaged from old movie houses. Or take
classes like shooting a 16mm short or documentary making. There’s also a lending library
of rare films (you might spot a print of Fritz
Lang’s Metropolis in its canister). Closed Sun;
1200 N. Alvarado St.; echoparkfilmcenter.org
alossix, (on flickr creative commons), cgkinia (on flickr creative
commons)
Echo Park Lake
right A rose-flanked
Victorian in Angelino
Heights
Sunset Travel Guide
Travel
Resources
Find more inspiration for travel in the West
on Sunset.com
L.A.’s backdoor escape
Nestled at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains, Altadena
boasts lovely hiking, eclectic architecture, and a relaxed vibe.
Only 16 miles from downtown L.A., this cozy community feels
happily secluded from Hollywood glitz and is perfect for a day
of nature, down-home eats, and free outdoor concerts.
10 great 24-hour getaways
Thought you didn’t have time for a vacation? Think again! Be
spontaneous this season with a 24-hour escape. Among our
top 10 are two trips within easy driving distance of L.A.: poolside margaritas, hot stone massages, and hip digs at Palm
Springs’ Ace Hotel & Swim Club, or gourmet picnic fare, biking
and kayaking adventures, and wine tasting in Santa Barbara.
www.sunset.com/travel
Sunset.com/Travel
Your ultimate resource for travel in the
West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips
on the best places to go, from National
Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired
with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend
trips or the ultimate Western vacation.
www.sunset.com/travel
CA’s Central Coast
Head north from L.A. to explore this
enchanting region. From elegance at
Santa Barbara’s shops to architectural
grandeur at San Simeon’s Heart
Castle, you’ll encounter glorious spots
to stay, eat, and play in Santa Ynez
Valley wine country, Monterey, Camel,
and the Big Sur Coast.
www.sunset.com/travel/california
17 Sunset Travel Guide
Sunset.
com/
Travel
gives you
the true
local’s
take on
the best of
the West—
it’s like
getting
advice
from
trusted
friends.
clockwise from left: andrea m. gomez, david zaitz (2)
www.sunset.com/travel/california
Sunset Travel Guide
Subscribe to
Sunset
You’re invited to enjoy a FREE PREVIEW of the next 2 issues of
Sunset magazine risk-free. No obligation to buy.
The
Western
lifestyle is
a journey.
Sunset
magazine
is its road
map.
If you live in the West, or visit it regularly, you already know Sunset. For more than 110
years, Sunset has been the West’s preeminent source for information on home, food, travel,
and gardening. Sunset is the leading independent authority on Western living.
What makes Sunset magazine so special? For some of our devoted readers, Sunset both
informs and delights their passions for the scenic beauty of the West and their desire for travel
and exploration. For other subscribers, Sunset is about celebrating the newest and best
ideas in Western home design and landscaping. Whether you’re looking for Western travel and
recreation…gardening and outdoor living…home and design…or food, wine and casual
entertaining — Sunset is your monthly ticket to a dream.
SUNSET does more than just tell you how to build a gracious life — Sunset shows you “howto-do-it.”
“Preview 2 issues of SUNSET magazine absolutely risk-free.”
If you like Sunset after receiving your 2 FREE PREVIEW ISSUES, you’ll pay just $16 for 10
more, for a total of 12 in all. This price includes the cost of your FREE PREVIEW Issues-- a
savings of 73% off the newsstand price.
If you’re not completely satisfied, you’ll return the bill marked “cancel” and owe nothing.
The cancellation is effective immediately, and any Free Preview issues you receive are yours to
keep FREE!
To subscribe, visit www.sunset.com/travelsub
or call 800/823-7270
A
18 Sunset Travel Guide