SOUTHERN STAR - Fresh Potatoes | Serve Up Some Goodness

COOKING CARBS
Try these six dishes
using the humble
potato. P6-7
SOUTHERN STAR
Inner-city Vietnamese
eatery shines. P11
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
FRESH
RECIPES | NEWS | WINE & BEER | REVIEWS
+
Rob
Broadfield’s
top taties. P5
Sensational
spuds
Take an in-depth look
at WA’s favourite
vegetable
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THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
2 FIRST BITE
FRESH
Broadbrush
Thursday, October 3, 2013
INDEX
A taste for this week
Broadbrush ............................ 2
Potatodors............................... 3
Choosing potatoes and Rob’s
choice .................................. 4-5
Potato recipes .................... 6-7
Food news ............................. 8
Potato health facts ................ 9
Grilled and beer ...................10
Wine and review ...................11
Off the shelf ..........................12
Rob Broadfield
COVER
Chips
PHOTO
Supplied
FEATURES EDITOR
Mark Mallabone, 9482 3574
[email protected]
EDITOR
Hermione Stott 9482 3451
[email protected]
STAFF WRITER Olga de Moeller
WINE Ray Jordan
BEER Vic Crossland
CONTRIBUTORS Max Brearley,
Jennifer Susanto Lee, Emma Chitty
DESIGN Rochelle Smith
ADVERTISING Marissa Owen
9482 3754
Follow Rob
Broadfield on
twitter at
@robbroadfield
Duende, the stylish tapas joint in
Leederville has changed hands.
Restaurant impresario Nic Trimboli
has moved it on at a time when his
restaurant empire is expanding
into bigger properties. His latest is
the massive Bread In Common in
Freo. Duende’s new owner Phil
Crocker told Broadbrush “it’s been
a baptism of fire this week” as he
comes to grips with the new
business.
Don’t you just wish that Australian
authorities had the nous, the
forward thinking and the clout of
their American counterparts.
News emerged this week of a
cunning plan executed in the US
aimed at putting an end to fakes,
frauds, trolls and competitors
taking to sites such as Urbanspoon
and writing fake reviews which
trash good businesses or,
conversely, which pump up
their own businesses with
ludicrously up-beat reviews.
Nineteen companies and
individuals were caught
writing fake reviews on
websites such as Yelp,
Google Local and City
Search. The year-long sting
operation, led by the New
York attorney-general, will
see the offenders paying
$350,000 in penalties. The
New York AG’s office even
went so far as to set up a
fake yoghurt shop in
Brooklyn as part of the sting.
New York Attorney-General Eric
Schneiderman said the fake
reviews breached laws against
false advertising and deceptive
business practices. We have similar
deceptive business laws in
Duende, the Leederville tapas and wine bar. Picture: Gerald Moscarda
100 years in the
making: the
historic new old
Common Sense
Cookery Book
New Cullen
space
It’s open. It’s
very nice. It’s
Cullen Wines’
new tasting and
dining rooms,
left. The picture
is of the tasting
area. Check out
the spring menu
too.
BUTCHERS
QUICK &
EASY MEALS
GET YOURS
NOW
#13W1947113-4-3/10
MONDO
824 Beaufort Street Inglewood
The ultimate book on eating out in WA, The West
Australian Good Food Guide 2014 edited by The
West’s Rob Broadfield, is now available. Buy your
copy for $19.95 from leading bookstores and
newsagents or order at westgoodfoodguide.com.au.
See Rob, with some of Perth’s top chefs, at The West
Live, October 11-13 at the Perth Convention and
Entertainment Centre. For tickets go to
thewestlive.com.au.
Australia but no moves against
the trolls.
“This investigation into
large-scale, intentional deceit
across the internet tells us that
we should approach online
reviews with caution.”
Companies providing fake
positive reviews used internet
address spoofing techniques to
hide their identities and set up
hundreds of bogus online profiles
to try to get around review website
controls, the attorney-general’s
office said.
We know the same thing
happens here in Australia, which is
why Urbanspoon and TripAdvisor
are so loathed by the restaurant
community. They are concerned
for their livelihoods and also that
consumers are getting skewed and
misrepresentative information.
Free speech is one thing (which
must be protected at all costs) but
fraudulent use of websites by
competitors or spruikers, is
another. Any chance that George
Brandis or his WA counterpart,
Attorney-General Michael Mischin,
will take on the trolls with some
targeted law making? Don’t hold
your breath.
We’re loving Shane Watson’s new
stripped-back, smart-as-a-whip
lunch menu at Print Hall. It’s
divided into four sections —
notionally appetizer, entree, mains
and desserts — which are
prosaically named 1, 2, 3, and 4:
none of the old-fashioned
entree/main distinctions at Print
Hall’s main dining room. Each
section has just four dishes.
Roasted pigeon breast with
juniper, pickled beetroot and
radicchio and seared fillet of
Albany free-range pork with
boudin noir and celeriac are two
dishes floating our boat.
Speaking of cookbooks, The
Common Sense Cookery Book
was first published in Australia in
1914. It’s 100 years old next year
and it’ll be back on the shelves
soon. It is true to the original in
every way. The recipes are an
inspiration if it’s nanna’s cooking
you’re after.
From the Media Release Fail file
comes this week’s missive from
the Marmite people. It is truly a
shocker. And very long. In a
nutshell, it’s spruiking the fact
that Marmite has returned to
quake-affected Christchurch. It
quoted a “28-year-old, self
confessed Marmite fanatic” as
having an “unwavering
commitment to the black gold”
despite Christchurch’s “Marmite
drought”. Really?
What’s Christchurch got to do
with a media statement issued in
Perth? Apparently Marmite is
now only produced in New
Zealand, which it’s owner,
Sanitarium, happily
acknowledges. Good enough
reason to stick to Vegemite, we
would have thought.
9371 6350
Half the carbs,
half the time of rice.
RARE_PMC21964_Mash
Hestonised historic food
Skin on. Microwave on. And in next to no time, you’ve got a perfect plate of lovely fluff y mash.
For more tips and recipes visit freshpotatoes.com.au
Lou Pontarolo from Boffins Bookstore in the city has given us advance
warning of Heston Blumenthal’s new book Historic Heston, due for
release just before he comes to WA for the Margaret River Escape in
November. This is no ordinary book. It will cost $199. It traces food back
to the 1400s and in inimitable Heston style, takes recipes, like fruit meat,
from the middle ages and renaissance Britain and Hestonises them.
Boffins is taking pre-orders now.
Hestonised historic food
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THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
POTATODORS 3
Tempting taties
are on the menu
The world’s fourth most popular food is now
tastier than ever, finds OLGA DE MOELLER
ashed, boiled or fried,
everybody loves a spud.
It’s been a dietary staple
for centuries and West
Australians each eat 20kg a year.
Make that mashed with lots of
love, lashings of butter, flaky salt
and a hint of white pepper for chef
Don Hancey, one of six —
soon-to-be-12 — high-profile
“potatodors” promoting the world’s
fourth most popular food crop as
part of the Potato Marketing
Corporation’s $1.8 million per
annum grower-funded Fresh Potato
campaign to lift local consumption
by 10,000 tonnes over the next three
years.
“A couple of drops of truffle oil
really sets it off,” Hancey says. “If
you have fresh truffle, even better.
My love affair with potatoes goes
back to my childhood when Mum
would do a mash with iceberg
lettuce on the side.
“There’d always be something
else, of course, but the textural
contrast between mash and crispy
lettuce is magic — though I tend to
use Cos these days.
“What people may not realise —
and I certainly didn’t — was how
fresh, regional and seasonal
potatoes are. We have four major
growing areas, all with different
soil types and growing times. So I
will now put more focus on the type
of potato I am using because they
all have characteristics which set
them apart.”
Call it the terroir of potatoes and
about 24 varieties are grown in WA.
Nadine is the most popular because
it has the highest yield, but it’s not
the best eating one around. Royal
blue is second and third place goes
to Ruby Lou.
Confused? Go by colour, instead.
Red skin potatoes, like Ruby Lou
and rodeo, are best for mashing;
blue-skin potatoes are perfect for
roasting and yellow-skin varieties
make a mean chip.
“The industry is on the verge of a
M
huge change with lots of new
varieties coming to market,” Laura
Clarke, Fresh Potatoes brand
manager said. “We expect five
years from now, the majority of
potatoes grown will be yellow-skin
varieties, like almera, Dutch
cream, carisma and kipfler.”
The push to reverse the decline
in consumption coincides with the
PMC’s truce over a long-standing
war with Spud Shed owner Tony
Galati, who signed a confidential
agreement with the WA potato
industry regulator committing the
Galati Group to operate within the
system, which is subject to the
Marketing of Potatoes Act of 1946
and the Marketing of Potatoes
Regulations of 1987. It is believed
the agreement also clears the way
for Mr Galati to increase his
planting by about 25 per cent.
About 50,000 tonnes of potatoes
are produced annually in WA for
the fresh market. That’s not
counting the 30,000 tonnes grown
for chips and frozen products, or
the 5000 tonnes WA exports. The
PMC hopes to boost fresh potato
production to 60,000 tonnes by
2016.
“The research tells us
that people have
‘Potatoes fit
mistakenly thought
potatoes are really bad
the bill.’
in terms of carbs, but
Kookaburra
they’re certainly better
Kookaburras and is a
Fergus Kavanagh
than rice,” PMC chief
potato ambassador,
executive Peter Evans
will second that. “Just
said. “So we’re really
the other night we had a
wanting people to fall back in
special dinner at a restaurant
love with the spud. There hasn’t
in Wembley and the roast potatoes
been a major consumption
were cooked in duck fat,” he said.
campaign for at least a decade, so
“They were beautiful, but not
we’re going to focus on how to cook something I would do at home.” He
in a healthy way that’s good for
comes from an Irish family, so
you. There will be a plethora of tips potatoes have always been a given,
and the TV ads will concentrate on
and lives with a couple of mates.
things everyone loves — mash,
The three of them go through a 2kg
roast and chips.”
bag a week.
His favourite? Roast, of course,
“The team has a dietitian who
and Olympic hockey star Fergus
advises us on what to eat, but it’s
Kavanagh who plays for the
pretty normal food really,” he said.
“Lots of fruit and vegetables,
protein and some extra carbs
because we train a lot, but the
timing of meals is more important.
We have carbs before training for
energy and after training to aid
recovery — and potatoes fit the bill.
They’ve had a bad wrap for being a
bit boring, but they’re an essential
food for the elite athlete.”
Mr Kavanagh eats potatoes three
times a week, compared with the
average WA consumption of 1.5
times a week. “We do roast
potatoes, mash and I’ve even tried
my hand at gnocchi, but that’s a
work in progress at this stage.”
Fergus
Kavanagh and
Don Hancey
show off an array
of spuds. Picture:
Robert Duncan
New healthier potato has plenty of carisma
Potatoes are shaking off their
bad-boy image with good-eating
varieties led by carisma, the only
variety in Australia to be certified
low GI. It’s been trialled for six
years and exhaustively tested —
about 16 times. “We would have
thought there was no such thing as
a low GI potato, so we wanted to
be sure,” said Alan Barclay, chief
scientific officer of the Sydneybased GI Foundation. “We went
over it so thoroughly that I think it
would have to be the most GI-
tested product on the planet.”
Carisma, which is available
from Coles, has a GI of 55
compared with an average of 77
for most potato varieties, but
that can blow out depending on
how they’re prepared. Mashed
desirees peak at 102.
“The low GI of carisma makes
a difference to people who have
diabetes or those who are
looking to manage their blood
glucose — and that happens to
be one in four Australian adults
— so it puts potatoes back on
the plate for them,” he said.
“Carisma is a nice-tasting
variety you can do in just about
any way apart from chips
because of the slightly lower
carbohydrate content; it
shrivels up if you deep-fry it,
which is good from a health
perspective.”
A similar low-GI varieties is
almera, which is available
year-round in WA, from
Woolworths.
DINNER AT THE PARMELIA HILTON PERTH
LUKE NGUYEN
FRIDAY 11 OCTOBER 2013, 6.30 FOR 7PM
VENUE
COST
CONTACT
Parmelia Hilton Perth
$150 per person, which includes welcome drink, 3 course dinner
and West Cape Howe Wines with menu selected by Luke,
author talk, followed by Q&A, book sales and book signing.
Bookings: http://www.trybooking.com/DMPJ
Enquiries: Dymocks Garden City on 9364 7687 or 9364 7387
#13W2161576-3/10
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THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
4 CHOOSING CHATS
Love the spud
Australians should embrace the
potato again, says BERLINDA CONTI
hichever way you
from the Atkins diet craze. But
choose to cook them,
actually, potatoes are an excellent
there’s no doubt
carbohydrate source.”
about it — potatoes
From this month, viewers will
are the staple of most Australian
begin to see a series of television
pantries. But there’s a lot more to
commercials starring the spud
the humble spud than just starch
which Ms Clarke describes as “sexy
and carbs.
food porn”.
Contrary to what the dieting
“Each 30-second ad is shot in
fraternity might have us believe,
cinematic food style and will show
viewers how to create one potato
spuds are practically fat-free, have
about 40 per cent fewer carbs than
dish, whether it’s a mash in
rice and pasta and are a natural
minutes, roasting and how to
source of fibre (particularly around master the crunchy edges or how to
the skin) with vitamins B6, vitamin make healthy chips. The ads are
C and potassium just some of the
essentially all about educating
nutrients in their armoury.
viewers on fresh and convenient
Perhaps the potato’s naughty
ways to make their favourite potato
reputation comes from what we
dishes,” she says.
like to lather upon it. Roasted in
Categorised by skin colour,
duck fat or mashed to a silky
potatoes can be red, yellow, blue
consistency with lashings of butter
and white and it helps to know the
and cream . . . a boiled spud does
science behind each.
seem rather dull in comparison.
“Red, like the ruby Lou has a
But choose the right one, toss in
pinkish skin and is best for
good olive oil, add torn mint leaves
mashing, the royal blue has a
and sea salt and, voila, the potato is blue-tinged skin and is better for
transformed into something
roasting, yellow, like the Dutch
delicious and nutritious.
cream, is great for making chips
There are about 34
and white, such as the
different commercial
Nadine is perfect for
varieties grown in WA
salads or boiling,” Ms
and about 80 licensed
Clarke says.
growers are
“Figures show about
‘Potatoes are a
throughout the South
60 per cent of potatoes
carbohydrate
West and as far north
grown here are the
as Lancelin and
white variety, or the
source.’
Gingin. Representing
common Nadine but it’s
the Potato Marketing
not always the best
Corporation, brand
tasting for everything and
manager Laura Clarke is keen
the industry is evolving to
to get spread the word on the power grow newer and better-tasting
of potatoes, starting with Potato
varieties. We want people to move
Week which runs until Sunday.
away from using the white and
“We want people to fall back in
start looking at the yellow for
love with potatoes,” Ms Clarke
instance, which is much better for
says. “Sadly, there’s this
cooking.”
To find out more or for recipe
misconception with potatoes being
ideas, visit freshpotatoes.com.au.
fattening and a lot of that came
MONDO
MARKETS
#13W1947256-3_26/09
W
There is a wide variety of
delicious potatoes available.
Picture: Michael Wilson
EVERY SAT TILL DEC 8am to 1pm
Fresh Foods, Fruit & Veg, Fun, Hugs, Gluten
Free Cakes, Breads, Organic Fruit & Veg,
Coffee, Greek Sweets, Knife Sharpening, etc
Phone 9371 6350
top 5
824 Beaufort St, Inglewood
Restaurant of the Year 2013
Smash mash and all things tater
Five of Perth’s best chefs let us into the secrets
of the potato dishes local diners are enjoying
Bistro Guillaume
Paris mash
Chef and owner Guillaume
Brahimi has been serving up his
heavenly Paris mash for more
than a decade and Bistro
Guilluame at Crown Perth is
following suit. Head chef David
Whitting says the royal blue is
the best potato for the job.
“It is great for mashing and has
a beautiful, creamy texture,” he
says. “We boil the potatoes
whole with the skin on. Once
peeled, the flesh is pushed
through a ricer then cooked in a
pot over a medium heat to dry
the potato out. Cold butter and
milk are then worked into the
dry product until a silky texture
is formed. The mash potato is
then passed through a fine
drum sieve. Just before serving,
cold butter is worked in with a
wooden spoon, salt is added
and the mash is served.”
Simply Seafood. Simply Stunning. Simply Mosmans.
Rockpool Bar & Grill
Royal blue potatoes sauteed in
Wagyu fat with rosemary and
garlic
“I use royal blue potatoes as
they are incredibly consistent
all year round, have a delicious
sweetness and creaminess to
them, enough waxiness for
sauteeing and baking for
gnocchi and they’re perfect for
chipping too,” Rockpool Bar &
Grill head chef Dan Masters
says. “For our royal blue
potatoes sauteed with
rosemary and garlic, we simmer
the potatoes very gently with
whole garlic and rosemary
bunches in salted water until
the spuds are nicely tender
(almost breaking). To serve, we
heat the Wagyu fat in a saute
pan and add generous chunks
of potatoes (3-4cm squared);
saute until golden and crispy
and add some whole blanched
garlic cloves and picked
rosemary leaves which we keep
cooking until aromatic, then we
drain and serve.”
The Butterworth
Roast duck fat potatoes with
garlic
Head chef Damien Young uses
kipfler potatoes for the
Butterworth’s roasted duck fat
potatoes. “They have a lower
moisture content with a
15 Johnson Parade | Mosman Park | Tel 9383 3388
[email protected] | www.mosmans.com.au
‘Just before serving, cold butter is worked in
with a wooden spoon.’ DAVID WHITTING
fantastic buttery, nutty flavour,”
he says. “We boil the potatoes
first and tend to overcook them
a little, which allows the duck
fat and butter to be absorbed
better; then we strain them and
let them dry naturally. To roast,
we use lots of duck fat and
butter with garlic cloves, bay
leaf and thyme until golden and
to serve, we saute the spuds in
more duck fat, butter, confit
garlic and thyme, then finish in
the oven until ultra crispy.”
Miss Kitty’s Saloon
Poutine
Poutine is a Canadian classic
traditionally made with French
fries and topped with gravy and
cheese curds. A Miss Kitty’s
favourite, head chef and
partner, Liam Atkinson says the
best to use is royal blue.
“They tend to fry up nice and
crisp and golden. For poutine,
the potatoes are double
blanched and served with
homemade cheese curds, foie
gras gravy (made with cream
and egg yolks) and red wine
jus,” he says.
Barque Restaurant
Fried potato with Sichuan
pepper
This very popular side dish
goes well with Barque’s
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THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
ROB’S CHOICE 5
POTATO AVAILABILITY October-December
District
Variety
Tonnes
Almera
Dutch cream
Lady Christl
Mondial
Nadine
Red rascal
Rodeo
Royal blue
Ruby Lou
White star
Northern
Overall Supply:
Medium
Overall Supply:
Medium
Almera
Cabaret
Delaware
Emma
Harmony
Innovator
Irish rose
Lady Christl
Marlin
Mondial
Nadine
Orla
Rodeo
Royal blue
Ruby Lou
Virginia rose
White star
Winston
Myalup
Overall Supply:
Medium
Trial
Tria
al crop
al
c
riall crop
crop
Trial
Tria
al crop
c
Trial
Trial
al ccrop
rop
Tria
al crop
c
Trial
M
Medium
‘Potatoes can be refined and beautiful
(gnocchi with sage burnt butter) or rustic and
filling (boulangere potatoes).’
T
ria
all crop
rop
Trial
ROB’S POTATO
DAUPHINIOSE
Tria
Trial
al crop
al
c
Potato
otat Availability
va
a ab
L
Low
eel like a chat? Perhaps you’d prefer
a kestrel, a purple congo, some
desiree or maybe Nadine is your
thing. Keen cooks like kipfler. And
is there anything better than a stuffed
spunta? These are, of course, all potato
varieties.
After rice, taties are the most consumed
carbohydrate in the world. They’ve even
played a role in world geopolitics. Potatoes
— or the lack of them — were responsible
for the largest ever diaspora of humankind
outside of war and conflict: the Irish potato
famine. Which means there’s not a city on
the planet that doesn’t celebrate St Patrick’s
Day. OK, maybe they don’t drink green beer
in Pyongyang and Tehran every March 17,
but you get the idea.
Potatoes can be refined and beautiful
(gnocchi with sage burnt butter) or rustic
and filling (boulangere potatoes). One of the
finest ways to eat potatoes is with lots of
salt and fat. Which brings us to potato
dauphinoise. The thing I like about this
recipe is, while it’s a proper vegetable
garnish for a meat dish, it is also a classy
supper in its own right. Serve the
dauphinoise with a lightly dressed green
salad (cress is fabulous) and you have the
perfect light meal. Make sure to use a spud
which is fit for the purpose, one that doesn’t
break down or turn to a floury mush. King
Edward or desiree are best.
Rob Broadfield
and his potato
dauphinoise.
Picture: Iain
Gillespie
F
Almera
Dutch cream
Kestrel
Kipfler
Lady Christl
Nadine
Rodeo
Royal blue
Ruby Lou
White star
Marybrook
Busselton
Have a chat,
chip in or just
go get stuffed
H
High
Av
Availability
A
vai
aila
la ty d
dependent
epen
ep
end
de on na
natu
natural
tura
rall g
growing
row
owi
wing
ing conditions. Trial crop
indicates that some volume may be available for commercial
sale dependent on results of trial.
COOK’S NOTE
Potato loves lots of salt,
so don’t be shy, but
remember the cheese is
also salty. And, you can
be lavish with the
nutmeg too, Nutmeg is
the Hollywood touch
which elevates
this dish.
unsalted butter for greasing
the baking dish
2 cloves of garlic, finely
minced
600ml pouring cream
sea salt and pepper to taste
1.5kg large potatoes, peeled,
thinly sliced (3mm) on a
mandolin
1
⁄2 cup finely grated cantal or
Swiss gruyere cheese
(cheddar is OK too)
1 whole nutmeg, although you’ll probably only
use about half
Grease the inside of a medium-sized, high-sided
ceramic baking dish with butter. At the same
time, place garlic and cream in a heatproof jug
and gently heat in the microwave. Season the
cream mix with salt and pepper and set aside.
Begin layering. Overlap potato slices to
completely cover bottom of baking dish, then
sprinkle with cheese, a fine dust of nutmeg
grated on a microplane, a small pinch of sea salt
and a splash of cream. Begin the next layer and
repeat process until all the potato has been used
or you reach the top of the dish. Press down
firmly with your hands and then gently pour over
the remaining cream until it comes to the top of
Classic: Rob Broadfield’s potato dish.
the pan. Give it a good bang on the counter, to
make sure cream settles into every nook and
cranny. Finish off with a few well deployed
knobs of butter. Cover with doubled alfoil, place
baking dish on an oven tray (in case it bubbles
over) and bake for 50 minutes at 180C. Take off
the alfoil, turn the oven up to 200C and cook
until the top has taken on some colour, about
15-20 minutes.
NOTE: This dish can be made very cheffy if
made in individual ramekins or one-serve
clafoutis dishes.
ROB BROADFIELD’S TOP FIVE
RECIPES FOR TASTY TATERS
David Whitting with his renowned Paris mash at Bistro Guillaume.
Picture: Iain Gillespie
slow-roasted lamb shoulder
and head chef Jay Taylor
swears by the royal blue potato
because of its higher
starch content, creamy taste
and ability to crisp up nicely
while retaining a fluffy centre.
“We blanch the potatoes first
in salted water to release the
starch then oil blanch at a low
temperature before cooking in
a hot oil deep-fryer. We finish
by tossing in Sichuan
peppercorns and salt,” he says.
Aligot: An elastic,
whipped potato
emulsified with butter
and cheese.
Pomme dauphinoise:
Thinly sliced potatoes,
layered with cheese,
scented with nutmeg,
drenched with cream
and baked until
cooked and golden.
Home fries: It’s what
Americans call
par-cooked cubes of
potato which are
cooked in a frying pan Aligot potatoes.
with lots of butter or
oil or both.
Paris mash: Mashed potatoes at their glossy,
pureed best.
Roast potatoes: Boil them first, rough them up
with a good toss, then commit to a hot oven for
crispiness on the outside and fluffiness on the
inside.
since 1986
Perth’s longest running authentic Japanese restaurant
F R E S H DA I LY
sashimi ࣭ sushi ࣭ seafood
lunch:
dinner:
wed - fri 11:30am to 2:00pm
tue - sat 6:00pm to 9:30pm
Unit 1, 18 Plain Street, East Per th 6004
(08) 6161 0858
www.facebook.com/ShigeRestaurant
THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
FRESH COMMUNITY 7
6 EATING IN
Mash in minutes
fresh
community
FAMILY FAVOURITE
Serves 1
You say potato . . .
1 big red potato
1 tbsp milk
1 tsp butter
seasoning to taste
Rejoice in this versatile, truly tasty and good-for-you vegie
Photography name here
Stylist name here
HEARTY MEAL
Our team of dedicated foodies
will endeavour to answer all
your food and drink queries, so
please, write to us. If you have
an opinion on any of our
stories, we’d love to hear, too.
Leaving skin on, prick potato both sides
with a fork and place in microwave on high
for 7 minutes. At 4 minutes, turn potato
over and cook for remaining 3 minutes on
high. Carefully remove hot potato, cut into
quarters and place in bowl to mash. Place
milk and butter into microwave and heat
until warm. Combine ingredients and mash
with potato masher to a fluffy consistency.
Season to taste.
Send in your suggestions, ideas
and comments to Fresh
community. PO Box N1025,
Perth WA 6000 or email
[email protected]
TIP
Flavour your butter with minced garlic or
lemon peel before adding to potatoes. Mix
in fresh herbs like chives, dill or parsley.
Scallop potato
Perfect with blue
potatoes and also great
with yellow potatoes.
Serves 4-6
COVER RECIPE
2 tbsp olive oil
2 brown onions, sliced
6 medium blue
potatoes, peeled,
evenly sliced into 1cm
thick rings
2 vegetable stock cubes
dissolved in 3⁄4 cup
boiling water
1 tbsp fresh or dried
thyme leaves
seasoning to taste
Potato and chickpea curry
Perfect with white potatoes and
also great with yellow potatoes.
NEXT WEEK
In next week’s Fresh we
look at the latest sweet
trend, the ombre cake
Serves 7
5 yellow potatoes
pink salt
Serves 6 - 8
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp butter
2 brown onions, finely sliced
3 tbsp mild curry blend
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cm cube crushed ginger
1 red chilli, seeded, finely chopped
2 cups chopped tomato
15 white potatoes, skin on, diced into 1cm
pieces
1 litre vegetable stock
400ml coconut milk
400g canned chickpeas, drained
salt and pepper
1
⁄2 cup chopped basil leaves
Heat olive oil in frypan
then slowly saute onions
on low heat for 4
minutes. Line baking
dish with baking paper,
layer with potatoes,
onions, warm stock,
thyme leaves and
season with salt and
black pepper. Make a lid
with baking paper then
alfoil and bake for 45
minutes or until the
potato has absorbed the
stock. Remove the lid
and bake for a further
20 minutes or until the
potatoes are golden
brown.
TIP
Try seasoning
with paprika or
curry powder for
an alternative
flavour.
Slowly heat oil and butter in a large pot on
medium heat and cook onions until they start to
caramelise. Toss in mild curry blend and saute
until fragrant. Add garlic, ginger and chilli and
slowly cook until fragrant. Add tomato, potato
and stock and simmer covered for 15 minutes.
Remove the lid and cook until the liquid has
reduced by one third. Add coconut milk and
chickpeas and simmer for another 10 minutes.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with
chopped basil leaves.
TIP
Much of the potato nutrients lie just under the skin, so keep the skin on.
Makes: 20cm x 30cm slice tin
Serves 6
Topping
1 tsp curry spice blend
3
⁄4 cup light sour cream
50g chopped sundried tomato
1
⁄4 cup chopped spring onions
Here’s a unique chance to talk to our WA farmers
and learn about where your food comes from.
Louise FitzRoy, a Walkley Award-wining journalist,
food writer and author will be hosting the ‘From
Paddock to Plate’ stand. Come along and she
will take you into the hearts and livelihoods of our
home-grown heroes, highlighting the importance of
supporting local, sustainable produce.
Whether you’re a foodie, a farmer, or just curious as
to why you should be sourcing Australian produce,
don’t miss out!
• WA Pistachios taste sensational and are grown
locally in The Avon Valley.
• Blackwood Valley Organic Beef is grown as nature
intended with the cattle hand selected, raised and
finished in a grass-fed, low stress natural herd
environment on farm at Boyup Brook, free of any
artificial growth hormones
and antibiotics.
Louise will be
selling signed
copies of her
book at the
stand - look
for the
FP2P logo.
• Ringwould Dairy is a family business located near Albany, whose philosophy is to
give their goats the best so they produce the highest quality milk and cheese.
• Marty and Connie Winch-Buist of WA Sandalwood Nuts are embracing the versatility
of this historic food source, by bringing you traditionally prepared products produced
on their property near York, as well as making use of the nuts in modern cooking.
2161790πJEMO031013
• Goccia d’Oro is a family-owned and operated
olive grove at Capel, producing award-winning
100% extra virgin olive oil.
1 packet arrowroot biscuits
(250g), crushed
160g rolled oats
30g desiccated coconut
2 lemons, zest only
125g butter
1 tin condensed milk (395g)
⁄2 tbsp olive oil
6 medium blue potatoes, pricked
all over with a fork
1
⁄2 tbsp salt
1
Pre-heat oven to 220C. Rub olive
oil all over the potatoes and
sprinkle with salt.
Place potatoes directly on to hot
oven rack, no tray required, and
bake for 1 hour or until the potato
skins are nice and crispy.
Meanwhile, lightly toast curry
spice until fragrant. Fold through
light sour cream, sundried tomato
and spring onions. Set aside. To
test if potatoes are cooked, pierce
the centre with a skewer. If it
comes out cleanly, the potatoes
are done. To pop open the top of
the potato, slice a shallow cross in
the centre, hold the potato in a
clean tea towel and squeeze the
base firmly with your fingertips till
the top opens. Fill the potato with
curried sour cream.
Icing
300g icing sugar
Juice of half lemon, approx
30g butter, melted
Paprika roast potatoes
Perfect with blue potatoes and
also great with yellow potatoes.
Serves 6 – 8
10 blue potatoes
1 tsp salt
1
⁄4 tsp white pepper
1
⁄2 tsp sweet paprika
2 tbsp olive oil
few sprigs fresh rosemary
TIP
Preheat oven with
tray before adding the
potatoes. A hot tray
will ensure even
cooking and crisp the
underside of the
potatoes.
Preheat oven and heavy baking pan to 200C. Peel potatoes,
cut in half and place in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Rub in
salt, pepper and paprika and coat well. Then, add olive oil and
mix until well coated. Remove pan from oven, line with baking
paper and evenly place potatoes cut side down. Roast for 20
minutes then pop in the fresh rosemary and cook a further 5
minutes. Serve.
Mr Whippy needs a Twitter
account. As mother to an icecream-obsessed four-year-old,
there is nothing worse than
hearing that haunting
Greensleeves jingle — right
before lunchtime I might add
— and knowing you are in for:
“MAMMA, MR WHIPPY’S
HERE!” Please Mr Whippy, get
into the 21st century and do us
mums a favour by getting
online and tweeting your
whereabouts. Then, maybe, we
can have our lunch and a
well-timed dessert of soft
serve with a flake (me) and
snow-cone (daughter).
Mother of the year
In the Features department here at The West, Pat’s lemon slice is legendary. Always making
appearances at morning teas and special events, it has a cult following. When Pat recently
retired after 26 years, a couple of us managed to wheedle the recipe from her so we could carry
on her legacy. It is a perfect addition to a festival of citrus. Buon appetito.
Pat’s lemon slice
Perfect with red potatoes and also
great with blue potatoes.
Peel and cut each
potato into
rectangles about
20cm thick. Place
into cold salted
water and bring up
to the boil.
Immediately
remove the
potatoes, place in a
colander and shake
to rough up the
edges of the chips
for a crunchier
result. Place in a
pre-heated fryer at
170C until golden
brown, drain the
chips on paper
towel, allow to cool
slightly then season
with salt and
serve.
Baking paper
Rochelle Smith
Baked potatoes with
sour cream
Showcasing succulent and tender beef, tasty
olives, delicious pistachios, mouth-watering
cheeses and moreish sandalwood nuts from
Western Australia.
Delicious
Chips
COMMENTS
Congratulations to Victor
Thompson for his silver medal
at the World Original
Marmalade Awards in Britain.
Nonetheless, the Waroona
Show seems to be the cup to
win. My neighbour and friend
Pip Wallace is the reigning
marmalade champ. Dr Wallace
is a talented cook, apiarist,
vegie gardener, cooks up a
mean marmalade and
chutneys to die for when she is
not running a thriving equine
veterinarian business. Pip will
no doubt give Victor a run this
year at Waroona. Watch out
for her scones too.
Catherine
Line slice tin with baking paper and set
aside. Roughly crush arrowroot biscuits
until they resemble breadcrumbs and
pour into a bowl. Add oats, coconut
and lemon zest. In a small saucepan
melt together butter and condensed
milk until butter has just melted, then
pour into bowl and mix in. Pour mix into
tin and press down, evenly covering
base. To make icing, pop ingredients
into a bowl and combine. Pour on top
of base and, using a spatula, spread
evenly. Pop into fridge and allow it to
set for a couple of hours or overnight.
To serve, cut into bite-sized pieces.
For Rochelle’s recipes and
more baking tips go to
thewest.com/lifestyle
TIP
Sprinkle icing
with lemon zest or
coconut to add a
little bit of extra
goodness
THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
8 FOOD NEWS BERLINDA CONTI
Visitors joining the throng at the Krispy Kreme
Doughnuts pop-up shop at this year’s IGA Perth
Royal Show will not only relish the
brand’s hot, glazed original
donuts, but also enjoy an
old-school shake and an
original Krispy Kreme
Doughnuts showbag.
Fundraising is another
big driver for the donut
legend and last week
the company set-up a
pre-Show pop-up
outlet on Murray Street
Mall, which raised more
than $11,000 for Telethon.
Masterclasses: Anna Gare.
Dishing up
hit recipes
Applecross
Primary School
students with
Peter Evans and
Ken Baston.
G O T S OME
F O O D NEWS ?
Send details to
berlinda@
berlindaconti.
com
Potato crops plant a food
seed for schoolkids
Year 1 students at Applecross Primary School were jumping out
of their skins upon seeing their first crop of potatoes earlier
this month. Sponsored by the Potato Marketing Corporation,
the Seed for Schools Program aims to educate kids on real
agricultural products, understanding the link between what’s
in the ground and what’s on the table. Applecross Primary
School’s Year 1 teacher and coordinator of the school’s Seed for
Schools Program, Vanessa Mann, invited Minister for
Agriculture and Food Ken Baston (pictured above, centre) and
Peter Evans, chief executive of the Potato Marketing
Corporation (pictured above, left) to help with the first harvest.
Registration for Seed for Schools 2014 opens in November and
participation is free. Visit freshpotatoes.com.au.
Westfield Carousel and
Whitford City shopping
centres will be getting
up close and personal
with the delightfully
charming Anna Gare for
two 90-minute
masterclass cooking
demonstrations next
month to coincide with
her new cookbook
release, Eat In: The Best
Food is Made at Home.
She will engage the
audience with a Q&A
session and tips on
feeding a hungry family
in minutes, as well as
sign copies of her book,
which Gare describes as
a compilation of her
“greatest hits” recipes.
Visit Westfield Whitford
City on October 11 at
noon and Westfield
Carousel on October 12
at 2pm.
Picture: Gerald Moscarda
Cocktails Pure magic
Subiaco’s Pure Bar is launching its new cocktail
list tonight during a glamorous soiree
celebration and bar manager Sheldon Hendry
says the list is like no other.
“What differentiates us from the others is that
we don’t serve any of the traditional cocktails,”
Henry, above, says.
Each cocktail is based on the top “likes” from a
Facebook campaign the bar ran. The event is
from 6-9pm. Tickets are $50 per person and
include nibbles and two cocktails. Pure Bar is at
331 Hay Street. Phone 9382 3330 to book.
The West goes live
Amberley toasts
to another trophy win
CABERNET MERLOT 2012
Royal Perth
Wine Show 2013
Trophy - The Witch’s Cauldron trophy for
Best Western Australian Dry Red Table wine
Royal Perth Wine Show 2013
Gold Medal - Class 59 - Dry Red Blends - 2012
Cabernet Sauvignon dominant
Enjoy Amberley responsibly
The Amberley Vineyards are planted in the
gravelly loam soils of northern Margaret River.
Here the vines are cooled by nearby ocean
breezes, combined with our viticultural practises
allows us to produce award winning wines with
elegant flavours.
Anyone seeking tips on
shucking the perfect
oyster, selecting and
cooking the freshest
and best seafood or
making silky-light fusilli
from scratch will find it
all at the Food and
Wine Zone at this
month’s West Live
event, at the Perth Convention and Exhibition
Centre from October 11 to 13.
Compered by WA Food Ambassador Don
Hancey, the live stage will be packed with
activities, including demonstrations from our
Baking Paper columnist Rochelle Smith, who
will share the secrets of making the perfect
cupcake. Special guests and 2012 MasterChef
contestants Daniela Pirone and Stefania
Muscara will serve up their famous zeppole
(potato donuts) and chefs including Good
Food Guide chef of the year Scott O’Sullivan
(Red Cabbage) and Peter Manifis (Incontro)
will join Rob Broadfield on the platform.
One such session entitled “bullet-proof
dinner parties: cooking for 10 or more”
promises to take the sting out of a homebaked affair. Hosted by Broadfield and
Leeuwin Estate’s head chef Danny Angove, the
two will make home entertaining look easy.
West Live will provide an interactive journey
through WA’s number one newspaper — The
West Australian. Gardening
workshops, wine tasting,
cartoon classes and more are
just some of the activities on
offer. Visit
thewestlive.com.au. Day
entry for adults is $15 and
children $5.
Bonjour
Dalkeith
The aroma of freshly
baked croissants,
cakes and baguettes
is now wafting
through the leafy
streets of Dalkeith as
award-winning
bakery Jean Pierre
Sancho recently
opened its fourth
outlet along the
western suburbs
shopping strip. Aside
from its scrumptious
array of treats and
handmade
macarons, the
bakery will offer
affordable breakfast
and lunch options,
such as $10 meal
deals which include
a gourmet sandwich
and a beverage. Visit
81 Waratah Avenue,
Dalkeith.
Budding WA chefs win silver
Two aspiring young chefs who
work together at Fraser’s
Restaurant came home with three
silver medals from the 2013 Nestle
Golden Chef’s Hat Awards recently.
Competing in the national finals,
Chris Malone, 17, and Phil Grice, 21,
were recognised by the World
Association of Chefs Societies’
globally approved standards for
their entree, main and dessert
course dishes. Malone also won
Apprentice of the Year at the 2013
WA Restaurant & Catering Awards
for Excellence for the second year
in a row. Winners Libby Green and
Daniel Garwood of Tasmania are
heading to London to work
alongside Alain Roux at
world-renowned, three
Michelin-starred restaurant, The
Waterside Inn.
THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
HEALTH FACTS
One potato, two potato . . .
… three potato and lots more varieties are
being developed, writes MAX BREARLEY
hite star, purple
Purser of Food, Body and Health,
congo, Lady Christl,
says she recommends a potato a
Dutch cream, Ruby
day on average.
Lou, red rascal. It
“They are best served with a
sounds more like the starting gates
protein which helps to lower the
at the local track than a list of
GI,” she says.
potato varieties. Picking up a bag
“Also potatoes cooked and then
with the weekly shop, it’s easy to
cooled and served in a salad have
think that one potato is much like
the benefit of a lower GI. A kipfler
another but it’s not the case; with
or new potato works well and is
an array of varieties that offer the
good for those maintaining glucose
cook different characteristics,
levels.”
flavours and options.
Here in WA, growers
The waxy likes of the kipfler are
commercially farm about 34
perfect for boiling and steaming,
varieties; some available all year
great for salads but not so for
round and others with a seasonal
frying. Floury potatoes, like the
life. The South West is where much
cabaret variety, have the opposite
of the 50,000 tonnes of fresh
qualities from the waxy; low in
potatoes produced each year comes
moisture and sugar, with a high
from. Grown as far north as
starch content. Boiled, they tend to
Lancelin, Dandaragan and Gingin,
disintegrate but stand up to frying
south through Myalup and
and roasting well. The versatile
Busselton to the area around
all-rounders like the royal blue or
Pemberton and Manjimup, there
the Dutch cream are balanced
are approximately 80 growers
between the waxy and floury ends
licensed and regulated by the
of the spectrum and will see you
Potato Marketing Corporation.
right for most things.
“It’s not some Stalinist-era
Versatile and hardy, the potato is
regulator,” jokes Dean Ryan,
an ingredient that never lets you
chairman of the Potato Growers
down. Stored or fresh from the
Association and a grower in the
farm or the vegie patch, there’s
Pemberton region.
always something that can be
“We’re an industry that’s
whipped up. Sausage and mash,
sometimes misunderstood, where
shepherd’s pie, Lancashire hotpot,
people think there’s a lack of
a classic colcannon, leek and potato variety and over-regulation, but
soup, fish and chips, the list of
I’ve grown over 100 varieties in my
comfort classics goes on. We’ve all
time. What some people don’t see is
got our favourite dish, whether it’s
that the supermarkets have their
those comfort classics, a Spanish
own branding. It may be red delight
tortilla, simply chipped or the
or cream delight or purple delight,
mighty roast potato.
but those will be made up of a
Next time you pick up that
number of varieties of that
bag of spuds or have the
characteristic. It may
peeler in hand it’s
dumb things down a
worth thinking about
bit but there’s only so
‘They
are
best
more than whether
much space on the
you’ve got a waxy,
shelves, I suppose.”
served with a
floury or versatile
As for the system
protein which
all-rounder to hand.
of regulation, from
Potatoes have a raft
Mr Ryan’s point of
helps to lower
of health benefits and
view, this is a benefit
the GI.’
these can also depend
to growers and
on how they are
consumers alike.
prepared. Nutritionist Jan
“The fact we are
W
ONLY
$24.95*
* Plus $5 postage
& handling
A 2 night escape for
you and a friend to
Wyndham Resort
worth over $1700!
regulated means that an average
price is possible, and we don’t have
this boom and bust that you see
elsewhere,” he says.
With new varieties in
development all the time, it’s a
lengthy and in-depth process that
can take more than four years to
see a new variety become a
commercial reality. The program,
run by the Potato Marketing
Corporation, has the goal of
keeping WA growers ahead of the
competition and providing
consumers with great quality and
choice.
So from farm to your shopping
basket there’s a heap of
development and strategising on
quotas that many of us wouldn’t
even think of.
Jan Purser
recommends
eating a potato
a day. Picture:
Gerald Moscarda
Truth behind the tuber
Misconceptions about the potato abound —
perhaps based on what we do with them. As chips,
crisps and duck-fat roasties, loaded with
everything from butter to cream cheese, they are
undeniably more-ish but the health benefits of the
ingredient are often lost in our preparation of them.
A few facts may prove to be a surprise.
CARBS: With a trend towards lower-carb diets,
there is the thought that potatoes are the daddy
when it comes to carb content but fresh potatoes
actually have 50 per cent fewer carbs than rice and
25 per cent fewer carbs than pasta.
ALMOST FAT-FREE: Fresh potatoes have a low
energy density, the ratio of calories to weight,
meaning that they are great as part of a balanced
diet and may help in maintaining a healthy weight.
FIBRE: Essential for a healthy gut, potatoes (mainly
in the skins) are a good source of fibre with about
20 per cent more fibre than pasta, which is
essential to build muscle, helps regulate blood
pressure and is good for helping a healthy
functioning heart and kidneys.
B & C VITAMINS: Vitamin C, an essential
antioxidant for your body can prevent or slow cell
damage and protects us from infection. Protecting
arteries, B vitamins are present in potatoes. It has
been found that B vitamins can reduce the furring
of arteries and reduce the risk of strokes and heart
attack.
Proudly brought to you by
00 S
1
ER TOR
V
O IBI
H
EX
Join me for an
exclusive wine
masterclass
Ray Jordan - Food & Wine Zone
Pre-order your copy now
to go in the draw. Visit
www.westwineguide.com.au
to enter.
Get your tickets to The West Live!
The West Live is an exciting three-day exhibition featuring all the sections from The West Australian alongside
over 100 exhibitors. Come along and meet the faces behind The West Australian and Channel 7, as well as
celebrity guests including Dr Harry Cooper.
NEW
FREE app
available when
you purchase
the book
There are four main zones with loads to see and do, including wine tasting with Ray Jordan, photography
workshops with Stephen Scourfield, cooking demonstrations with Rob Broadfield and cartoon classes with Dean
Alston.
Not to mention thousands of products to try and buy from over 100 exhibitors.
Perth Convention and Exhibition Centre October 11 to 13, 2013
Friday 1pm-7pm | Saturday 10am-6pm | Sunday 10am-5pm
Get your tickets now at thewestlive.com.au
9
THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
10 GRILLED AND BEER
Grilled
WA potato grower and Beta Spuds
manager MATTHEW COCCIOLONE
shares some food moments with Fresh
WHAT IS YOUR FIRST FOOD
MEMORY?
Nonna’s fresh handmade pasta.
Being Italian, it’s always been part
of the old tradition that everyone
makes their own fresh pasta and,
especially when I was a kid, I used
to go in my Nonna’s cellar and
help. First memories like that with
the family cooking food, that’s
probably, I suppose, the most
treasured memory.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
MEAL?
Grilled WA line-caught snapper
with baby carisma potatoes and
shaved fennel. I used to be a chef
in my previous working life so I’m
fairly good in the kitchen and try to
do seafood at home at least once a
week.
Matthew Cocciolone is a huge fan of potatoes. Picture: Gerald Moscarda
Matthew’s little baby blue simple roast spuds
Serve as a substitute for chips, or
add them to your roast dinner.
2 cloves garlic
1 sprig of rosemary
1kg baby blue potatoes
olive oil
sea salt flakes and pepper to
taste
Preheat the oven to 180C. Peel
and crush the garlic and
roughly chop the rosemary.
Add the baby blues with the
skin on, garlic, rosemary, olive
oil, salt and pepper to a
roasting pan.
Roast in the oven for 20-25
minutes or until tender.
WHAT WAS THE LAST BOTTLE
OF AUSTRALIAN WINE YOU
DRANK?
The Vasse Felix sticky dessert
wine.
WHAT IS YOUR ONCE-A-YEAR
FOOD INDULGENCE?
Eggs Benedict with extra
hollandaise at Ootong & Lincoln
cafe in South Fremantle.
WHAT WAS YOUR LAST OMG
FOOD MOMENT?
Cold beer and pizza at Little
Creatures during summer. During
summer, you can’t beat a cold beer
and a bit of pizza, especially down
there.
BUCKET LIST RESTAURANT?
Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark.
It’s one of the top restaurants in
the world at the moment — they’re
obviously doing the right thing
and experimenting with food and
they’ve got a very competitive
kitchen from what I understand. I
haven’t been to Europe yet and if I
do get the chance to go, which
won’t be any time soon because
I’ve got young kids, I’d love to have
a culinary experience as well.
WHAT MUSIC DO YOU LIKE TO
EAT BY?
Conversation with my two girls,
Amelia and Ella, and my wife
Hannah, is blissful.
WHAT KITCHEN GADGET CAN
YOU NOT LIVE WITHOUT?
My Global Chef knives.
BEST BURGER?
The steak sandwich at South
Coogee Cafe.
BEST COCKTAIL?
Vodka martini.
BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL?
The dim sum lunch at Emperor’s
Kitchen in Leeming. My favourite
would be the prawn dumplings
and some barbecue pork buns.
Picture: Gerald Moscarda
Matthew’s little baby red
warm potato salad
William Hardy
Gold Medal
Winner!!
Discover why he put his name to it.
The best wine from the best regions,
that is what the William Hardy range is all about.
1kg baby red
potatoes
1 bunch of coriander
200g grape
tomatoes, halved
sea salt flakes
cracked black
pepper
extra virgin olive oil
In cold, salted water add baby reds to a pot
and bring to the boil. Cook for 8 minutes.
Roughly chop the coriander and put in a
large mixing bowl with the tomatoes. Strain
the baby reds and allow to rest for 15
minutes. Quarter the baby reds with the
skin on an add to the tomato and coriander
mix. Season to taste with salt, pepper and
olive oil.
Beer barrel
Beer of the week
Royal Perth Wine Show 2013
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2012
Gold Medal - Class 39,
Cabernet Sauvignon (commercial)
TIP
Check out
plenty of other spud
recipes at
betaspuds.com.au/
potato-lovers.
Vic Crossland
Warsteiner Premium Verum (4.8 per cent)
This pilsener has developed since the 1928 advent of
“Kaiserquelle” soft-water brewing to become Germany’s
top-selling beer — rightly so, because it’s superb. The appeal
is universal and the Warsteiner family brewery, founded in
1758, capitalises with sales in 60 countries. European
hallmark grassy aroma sets up a haystack of fresh flavour,
slightly malt sweet at first then dry and crispy.
Enjoy Hardys responsibly
Last Drop Oktoberfest (5 per cent)
Matured for three months, made on German kit with German
refinements such as decoction and krauzening, this WA draught Marzen
is traditional Oktoberfest beer but Vienna as well as Munich malt lends a
copper hue. It’s brilliant, with pillowy head, firm maltiness and caramel
hints, finely balanced with European Perle hops.
A new addition to the family
www.hardyswines.com
Weihenstephaner Vitus (7.7 per cent)
One to impress during Oktoberfest. From the world’s oldest brewery, in
Bavaria, Vitus weizenbock goes beyond usual strong wheat beer
because, while pale, it contains the smooth, rich, creamy characters of
dark bocks, even ales. A past champion specialty beer.
Tomahawk Doppelbock (7.2 per cent)
Extra-strong malty lagers originally were brewed in Bavaria by monks as
“liquid bread” for sustenance during Lent. The latest of The Old
Brewery’s Tomahawk craft specials, this deep amber-brown doppelbock
presents layers of grain complexity and toastiness on a smooth palate.
THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
REVIEWS
Cellar talk
11
Prawn bird’s nest
at Southern Star
was tasty and
very generous.
Pictures: Gerald
Moscarda
Ray Jordan
Wine of the week
Turkey Flat Rosé 2013 ($18)
It’s a great time of the year to start
thinking about drinking rosé and this
is one of my favourites. A blend of
grenache shiraz cabernet and
dolcetto. Brilliant bright pink colour
with light red hues. Light and fresh
palate with fine uplifting acid. Touches
of Turkish delight and strawberry.
Long clean palate and great current
drinking. Serve it slightly chilled or
when the weather gets really warm,
throw in a couple of ice blocks, sit
back and enjoy. 93/100
Vasse Felix cabernet sauvignon merlot 2011 ($24)
Generous and fruity cabernet merlot blend. The steel
and structure of the cabernet really gives this focus
while the plump fleshy merlot with all its fruitcake and
dense ripe blackberry flavours provide a sumptuous
middle palate. Chalky tannins and fine grained oak.
Yep, a deliciously appealing wine. 92/100
A Southern Star is born
From deep-fried spring rolls to a prawn bird’s nest,
this was a real Vietnamese treat, writes DON STOTT
Southern Star
Smithbrook sauvignon blanc semillon 2013 ($20)
Precise and flavoursome blend from Pemberton. It
has a delightfully fresh lime and tropical fruit aroma
with a plentiful sprinkling of dried herbs. Light bodied
palate but still one with heaps of persistence and
flavour. Has a crunchy finish. 91/100
Address Unit 1/132 Terrace Road, Perth
Phone 93251868
Open Lunch: 11am – 2pm Mon – Fri;
dinner: 5.30 – 10pm Mon - Sun
The buzz Well-presented, well-cooked
food at reasonable prices, a stylishly
understated environment, and prompt,
courteous service are enough to drive
away the glums.
14/20
Mount Trio riesling 2012 ($19.50)
Striking opening of lemon blossom with a spicy
infusion. There is a distinctive regional character
about it. The palate is lean and tight but with a fine
acid sustaining the finish. Lovely expression of this
variety displaying some classic Porongurup purity.
91/100
Swings & Roundabouts shiraz 2012 ($22)
A generous proportioned distinctly savoury shiraz
from Margaret River. Plums and licorice on the nose
with some light cedary oak. The palate is still very firm
with ripe tannins and oak slightly ahead of the fruit at
this stage. Will knit together with a little more time in
the bottle. 89/100
The West Australian Wine
Guide 2014, your in-depth
guide to WA wines is almost
here. This year the print
version of The West
Australian Wine Guide
comes with a handy voucher
to download the new
smartphone app for free.
Not only will it contain all
the reviews from the book
but also some handy filters
for accommodation,
restaurant and activities in
the various regions.
Pre-order your copy now at
westwineguide.com.au for
just $24.95* (*plus postage
and handling).
y swimming pool had a
leak — or should I say,
leaks — and they were
proving difficult to
rectify, which was depressing me
no end. Coupled with that, a
category 10 cyclone was raging
outside, so all in all, I was in no
mood to go out and review a
restaurant — but duty called, and
so off we dutifully went. Well, let
me tell you, if you need an antidote
for the blues and a haven from the
storm, head off down to Southern
Star.
We began with the deep-fried
spring rolls ($6.90), which were
straight from the fryer to the table,
crunchily crisp, and nicely
presented with chamfered ends. By
the time we had decided that they
possibly needed a chilli dip of some
sort, we had eaten them all — so
perhaps they were fine with the
dipping sauce they came with.
Barbecue quail in soy sauce and
chilli was accompanied by the
following dialogue:
Wife: “Does it taste nice,
my dearest?”
Me: “Does it look as if it
tastes nice, my sweet?”
Wife: “Well, you’re
eating them with your
fingers, my petal, and
you’ve stripped the bones
clean, so I guess everyone
in the restaurant will
think so.”
Too right they did. And
at $8.90 they were a
bargain: plump, tender
and subtly sauced.
Whether justified or
not, I fancy myself as a
student of Vietnamese
restaurants, and fresh
rice paper rolls are a good
indicator of a restaurant’s
M
The staff at the Southern Star
were welcoming and provided
prompt, courteous service.
commitment to quality, since there
are so many ways of ruining them:
the rice paper can be old, dry, or
overly chewy; they can stint on the
meat or prawn filling and overdo
the vegies; they can be made too
far in advance and the crunch of
whatever fresh vegies are used
dissolves into flabbiness; the
dipping sauce can be too thin, have
insufficient ground peanuts, or be
bulked out with a mountain of
grated carrots. The rice paper rolls
($8.90) at Southern Star avoided all
of these sinful practices — six
attractively presented
mouth-stuffing parcels packed
with pork, vermicelli, fresh vegies
and a prawn top and bottom.
The star of the evening, though,
was the prawn bird’s nest ($27.90):
a very generous serve of lightly
wok-tossed prawns and firmly
moist vegies splendidly presented
in a nest of crispy fried noodles.
Hot plate duck with silken tofu
($26.90) was again unstinting in its
portions. The boneless duck fillets
were cooked to juicy sublimity, but
the “silken tofu” was
disappointingly flaccid rather than
silky. Infused with a satisfyingly
large quantity of coconut, the
coconut rice ($3.90) we ordered
with this dish was a must-have.
Few Asian restaurateurs lay
claim to being wine-savvy and
many leave their list to a single
wholesaler. Southern Star is no
exception. The list is small but
adequate, with six wines by the
glass.
And if you think a Cullen Red
at $35 or a Moss Wood Cab Sav at
$60 are bargains, you’ll agree the
list is well-priced.
Check out the West
Weekend magazine for
reviews by Rob Broadfield.
1-9 Don’t bother
1 0 -1 1 Patchy
1 2-1 3 Average
14 Recommended
1 5 -1 6 Very good
17 Memorable
1 8-19
Classic/nearing
perfection
20 Perfection
BROWN HILL
margaret river
Superb Rich Reds...
Outstanding Value
Handpicked, Estate Grown & Bottled
SMALL PRODUCER OF THE YEAR
Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2010
Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2009
2009 PERSEVERANCE
Cabernet Merlot
96 Points, Ray Jordan
2010 BILL BAILEY
Shiraz Cabernet
95 Points, Ray Jordan
CELLAR DOOR OPEN 10AM - 5PM DAILY
Cnr of Rosa Brook & Barrett Rd Rosa Brook W.A. 6285
Freecall : 1800 185 044
Fax: (08) 9757 4004
www.brownhillestate.com.au
THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2013
12 OFF THE SHELF
We put
three
popular
baby
foods
to the
test
Ella’s Kitchen, Chicken and sweetcorn mash
with herb sprinkles, 130g, $2.29
Appearance: The spout is similar to a plastic straw,
designed to either squeeze worm-like into a bowl or
be sucked straight from the pack by the child. The
food is pureed and is a brownish-cream colour similar
to chicken. Similar texture to Heinz but less watery.
Taste: It has a very paste-like texture
to it, which sticks to the tongue. It
tastes predominantly of chicken.
Ingredients: Organic
sweetcorn (29 per cent),
organic whole milk (22 per
cent), organic potatoes (20
per cent), organic chicken (12
per cent), organic onions (6
per cent), organic leeks (6 per
cent), organic broccoli (5 per
cent), organic parsley (<1 per
cent), organic thyme (<1 per
cent), organic peppercorns (<1
per cent).
Overall: It tips over into the $2
range but you get a bit more.
Heinz Organic, Sweet baby vegetables,
110g, $1.45
Rafferty’s Garden, Just Veggies with carrot,
potato, swede, 120g, $1.99
Appearance: The glass jar has an easy-to-open metal
screw-top lid that pops when newly opened to ensure
freshness. It is for ages four to six months. The baby
food itself is a dull orange puree with no lumps.
Texture is midway between watery and dense.
Taste: It is sweeter than the other brands and is also
the most watery of the three. Flavour-wise, no
particular vegetable stands out.
Ingredients: Vegetables (65
per cent), consisting of
sweet potato and carrots (15
per cent), potatoes (15 per
cent), sweet corn (14 per
cent) and water. The label
says it has no
preservatives, colours or
flavours and is Australian
Certified Organic.
Overall: Heinz has been
trying hard to keep up with
the newer pouch brands. It
is a brand most of us know
and tastes strangely familiar.
Appearance: Soft foil pouch with sealed plastic twisttop, for babies four months and older. The puree is
bright orange and denser than the other brands.
Taste: Nice texture and flavour. A bit fibrous. Carrot is
main taste. It’s not too sweet or salty. Less
watery than the other brands.
Ingredients: Carrot (42 per cent),
potato (23 per cent), swede (12 per
cent), cooking water. No added
salt, sugar, artificial colours or
flavours, additives,
preservatives, dairy, egg, or
wheat, lactose, glucose or GM
products. It is halal. Produced in
New Zealand but has an
“Australian Made” stamp on it.
Overall: Founded in 2008, this is
Australia’s version of Ella’s
Kitchen and has just been bought
by soap-maker Cussons for $70
million — the tastiest of the three.
All products bought at Coles,
Angelo Street, South Perth.
Where to eat
★ROLEY'S ON THE RIDGE★
Cafes
Award winning restaurant specialising
in the freshest, local seafood available.
Mt Lawley (BYO wine only)
Breakfast✩Lunch✩Takeaway
great selection of food✩perfect location
7 Days • 6:30am - 4.00pm
Cnr Second Ave & Beaufort St
Lunch Thurs & Fri 12:00 - 2:00pm
Dinner Tues - Sat from 5:30pm
Phone 9471 8945
38 Moolyeen Rd, Mt Pleasant
Ph/Fax us for your catering...9315 3003
Kids eat free Tues-Thurs nights*
Special Seniors Discount*
(Lunch Mon-Thu* Dinner Tue-Thu)
New Moon a new name for
Hoi’s Kitchen
$20 Lunch Special* see web for info
Yes we are now @ New Moon
in and enjoy our great food in our *offer avail Mon - Sat (closed Tues)
★NEW★lunch & dinner menu weddings•functions•seminars Come new
Cnr Brookton Hwy & Soldiers Rd
exciting location today
...Wed to Sat from 6pm til late...
Roleystone
6 Days
9496 0666
Dim Sim Day & Night
★
Open
7
Days
from
9am
★
Day: Tue - Sun............... 9.30am - 3.00pm
★Bouncy Castle Sundays★
Night: Fri & Sat ............6.00pm - 9.30pm
459 Nicholson Rd, CANNING VALE
4752 West Swan Rd, West Swan
9456 1362 63 James St, Northbridge 9328 8720
Ph 9274 7277
Closed Tuesday *Conditions apply
www.willowpond.com.au
Delicious Aussie style meals
...breakfast & lunch 6 days...
General
~Vintage Styled Tea Room~
Belmont Licensed (BYO Wine)
Book Now for Melbourne Cup!
Perfect location on The Murray
★ 2012 GOLD PLATE FINALIST ★
for weddings, functions or just relaxing
and enjoying a meal or a drink
Lunch ⎮ Dinner ⎮ 7 Days
Thur-Fr fr 4pm|Sat/Sun fr 11.30
★ THE BEST OF BRITISH ★
Bring a little home comfort straight to
your door, over 700+ of your favourite
products. Visit our website today
www.britishaisles.com.au
or call for info (08) 9200 3430
86 Great Eastern Highway
Lunch Tues - Fri 12:00 - 2:30pm
Dinner Mon - Sat 5:30 - 9:30pm
www.redcray.com.au
9479 7000
$10 PIZZA LUNCH SPECIAL
Book now for Melbourne Cup
$55pp hot & cold buffet + desserts
sweeps⏐best hat & dress prizes
race on big screen ⏐ loads of fun
Restaurants
home made cakes | scones | light meals
Open Fri, Sat & Sun 10am - 4pm
72 Bisdee Road, Millendon
Swan Valley
Ph 9296 6567
Testimonials
4 mins fr Pinjarra Rd exit Kwinana Fwy
Our customers are not only local
Lot 2 Tatham Road South Yunderup
theclansman.com.au
9537 6400 but now come from far and wide. People
are taking the drive out from Perth at
weekends and also meeting up with
friends from Bunbury as we are about
halfway between the two.
We will continue to advertise in
$20 Pizza/Pasta Mon-Thu night
Where to Eat
Dine in or Takeaway • Woodfired Pizzas
2b Peel St, Mandurah
9586 1166
www.paparazzirestaurant.com.au
Maryanne (Restaurant Owner)
✩$15 PIZZA/PASTA SPECIAL
Tues-Fri Lunch & Tues: Dinner
BYO ★★★ Book Online
Friday Night ~ a la carte
★ Tues - Sun (closed Mon) ★
Country Club Ave, ROLEYSTONE
views101.com.au
9397 9969
★ ALFREDS KITCHEN ★
Sunday-Thursday 5pm-12pm
Friday & Saturday 5pm-2am
Cnr James & Meadow St, GUILDFORD
www.alfredskitchen.com.au 9377 1378
Modern Vietnamese Cuisine
Present this ad to claim 25%
off total bill. Swan River Views
www.thatlittlemexicanplace.com.au
#1 Pizza Maker in the World
Tues-Fri fr 11am•Sat & Sun fr 4pm
94 Aberdeen Street, NORTHBRIDGE
www.ilpadrino.com.au 9227 9065
"The West reaches a wide audience
so as a new business, advertising in
Where to Eat
INDIAN CUISINE AT ITS BEST!
dine in | t/away | home delivery
310 Walcott St, Mt Lawley 9271 2603
9473 1762~BYO No Corkage~7 days
www.fullmoonthai.com
was an obvious choice. The ads have
been a real boost for us and we will
continue advertising with The West".
dine in∗t/away∗home delivery
Forrest Plaza, Padbury 9403 6999
5-10pm www.mythairestaurant.com.au
Dine in ⎮Take away ⎮ BYO⎮no corkage
Tues - Sun 5pm - 9:30pm
Mon-Fri 11-2pm ★ Mon-Sun 5.30-10pm
132 Terrace Rd, Perth Lic (BYO Wine)
southernstarperth.com
9325 1868
9248 3059
Fri & Sat Buffet Dinner $25pp
6 Illawarra Cres, Ballajura
SHUN FUNG ON THE RIVER HIMALAYAN NEPALESE RESTAURANT
Barrack Square Jetty, Perth (Next to Bell tower)
Dinner Lunch or
ow!
Book N
Authentic Nepalese Cuisine
#13W2163333-10/10
10% off
Dim Sum
Lunch
15/9 - 15/10
Mon-Fri
ED
LICENS
FULLY 7 DAYS
N
E
P
O
Tel: 9221 1868
MOSMAN PARK
Lunch & Dinner
Fax: 9221 3330 E: [email protected]
www.shunfung.com.au
where to eat
1/634 Stirling Hwy
Ph 6161
61 61 2290
229 0
INGLEWOOD
Mon & Tues Dinner
Wed to Sun lunch & dinner
840 Beaufort St
Ph 6161 9509
VICTORIA PARK
Lunch & Dinner
Ann (Restaurant Owner)
Wed - Sun Lunch fr 10am
Live Music Sundays
Wednesday $15 Seafood Night
Friday $18 Steak Night
41 Sanctuary Drive
Murray River Estate, Pinjarra
9531 3894
Licensed Cafe
functions ⎮ weddings ⎮ events ⎮ dine in
Tours
Speed Grazing - Fast, Fun & Filling!
Visit 9 of the regions most delicious
spots and enjoy 25+ different tastings
419 Albany Hwy
Ph 6161 8645
Dine in or Take away
www.himalayanrestaurant.com.au
facebook.com/redcliffeonthemurray
tastebudtours.com.au
0412 244 201
To advertise in this section please call Jennifer on 9482 2456 or email [email protected]
BWA01X6WTEBO
THIS COPYRIGHT MATERIAL MUST NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT PERMISSION OR PASSED ON TO ANY THIRD PARTY. CONTACT: [email protected]
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH