Revillagigedo Archipelago

SCUBA :: SITES & TRIPS :: EXOTIC :: MEXICO
At El Boiler mantas approach divers very closely
Revillagigedo Archipelago
Dive with the Really Big Boys Only
a Short Flight South of the Border
Article & photos by Sammy Cimeno
There comes a time when the hunt for little critters loses
some of its appeal and divers begin to seek out animals
that are larger and more exciting. This is particularly true for
underwater photographers. Our oceans are filled with seals
and sea lions, dolphins, sharks, manta rays, and whales; and
diving with these fascinating animals opens a completely
new dimension to diving. There are many places in the world
that provide a world-class adventure diving with these big
boys and each offers opportunities for unique encounters.
While there is no overall “best spot” to find big animals,
the most consistent spot to dive with large manta rays is
a group of islands south of Cabo San Lucas in Mexico
called the Revillagigedo Archipelago. While many divers
visit the Revillagigedo Archipelago just for the mantas,
there are many other large animals here to thrill the most
experienced diver.
The Revillagigedo Archipelago is comprised of four
islands: San Benedicto, Socorro, Roca Partida, and Clarion.
Divers often refer to the archipelago simply as “Socorro”:
mainly due to our inability to pronounce “Revillagigedo”.
These islands are typically dived from a live aboard charter
The Clarion angelfish is Socorro’s most energetic cleaner
boat on nine or 12-day trips departing from Cabo San Lucas,
and since Clarion is so far from the rest it is only visited on
the longer trips. The bottom around the islands of Socorro
is relatively stark with a minimum of coral, invertebrates and
plant life. This is not a place for those seeking little critters; it
is a place to dive with the big boys. Much of the diving here
is “porch sitting”—you find a comfortable place to sit, usually
facing into the current, and watch the big animals parade by.
The massive, volcano-topped San Benedicto is the
closest island to Cabo, is about 230 miles away, and takes
around 24 hours to get there from the Cabo San Lucas
harbor. Dive boats typically spend the first day or two at San
Benedicto and there are two dive sites that will blow your
mind. El Boiler is on the southwest side of the island and is a
massive pinnacle that begins at about 20 feet and descends
in steps to over 160. The honeycombed reef is riddled with
giant green moray eels and lobsters.
Diving at El Boiler is all about the manta rays, since this
is one of the busiest Pacific manta cleaning stations. The
Clarion angelfish is the site’s most energetic cleaner and
mantas, sometimes three or four mantas at a time, come in
to be cleaned. It is not permitted to touch the rays; and over
the years the mantas have become incredibly comfortable
with divers, and they view divers with a sense of curiosity and
purpose. They seem to have a particular and unique fondness
for bubbles. It is common to have a manta hover directly
above a diver and wiggle and jiggle in ecstasy as exhalation
Experience Big Animals Aboard the Nautilus!
The Nautilus Explorer charter vessel regularly voyages out to Socorro Island
and interacts with the most spectacular and friendly big underwater animals
in the world. True giant mantas, also known as Manta birostris and manta rays,
can be seen all over the location’s crisp azure waters. Their wing-like pectoral
fins can grow up to 22 feet wide and the critters aren’t shy about greeting
divers face to face; and it’s not uncommon for bottlenose dolphins to join in
on the fun! Shark lovers will also discover a delightful adventure alongside silky, Galapagos, hammerhead, white tip, and silver
tip variants of the beautiful pelagic fish; schooling hammerheads can be encountered in big numbers between April and June.
Perhaps the pinnacle of any Socorro excursion, a population of 1,200 humpback whales migrate by the waters in January and
grant a perfect opportunity to experience their unique language – many Nautilus Explorer passengers have slept soundly
during the whales’ soothing aquatic concerts.
Check out more opportunities aboard the Nautilus Explorer by visiting www.nautilusexplorer.com.
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REVILLAGIGEDO ARCHIPELAGO
Hammerhead sharks are fearless at El Cañón
Divers share a close encounter with a Pacific manta ray
bubbles cascade across their belly. Manta encounters may
last an entire tank with the mantas passing within a foot or
so of divers. They check out divers, hover motionless while
they allow the cleaner fish to do their job, and do barrel rolls.
These behaviors allow for extended, intimate encounters and
provide photographers plenty of opportunity to shoot the
rays from every possible angle. These mantas are huge: some
were over 16 feet tip-to-tip.
On the southeast side of San Benedicto is El Cañón. This
site consists of a horseshoe or box canyon-shaped group
of pinnacles. The offshore side drops to 180 feet or so, and
the inshore floor is around 100. The dive consists of making
your way to the lookout over deep water at 70 to 80 feet and
Hawaii
 


watch the fish go by. Schools of hammerhead sharks patrol
the drop off and, unlike many other parts of the world, seem
to have little fear of divers. This is a great place for prolonged
encounters with hammerheads and for hammerhead
portraits. There were also a few very small and very cute
silvertip sharks here. Divers are regularly treated to close
encounters with mantas during their safety stops.
Cabo Pearce is on the east side of Socorro and is an
underwater ridge running from shore out about 100 yards.
Again, this is a “porch-sitting” dive: Simply find a spot
facing the current and watch the animals parade by. Manta
rays, hammerhead, silky sharks, and schools of bottlenose
dolphins are predictably photographed here.
Land of Aloha
Kauai
    


Maui
   


  


Hawaii
Dolphins and Manta Rays and Reefs -
Oh my!
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SCUBA :: SITES & TRIPS :: EXOTIC :: MEXICO
Humpback whales come to Socorro each winter to calve
and mate, and in-water encounters with mother and calf
whales is becoming increasingly common. The mothers,
with their young calves, sometimes rest right next to dive
boats. Lucky divers get to watch mother and calf rest, play,
and nurse.
Roca Partida is a massive pinnacle that sticks 20 feet or
so out of the water. This is a relatively small site and, current
permitting, divers can easily circumnavigate it twice on a
single tank. If the currents are running you will need to
stay in the upstream or downstream sides of the rock. At
moderate depths there are several deep bowls in the rock
that are normally filled with white tip sharks. There may
be as many as a dozen, packed like cordwood in the small
depressions. Again, they are accustomed to divers and will
often permit a close approach. Around the rock are silky and
Galapagos sharks, and the occasional manta. We saw only
individual silkies on this trip, but others reported swimming
among a school of hundreds.
In 1994, the Mexican government established the
Revillagigedo Archipelago “biosphere reserve” to protect
this unique ecosystem. Since 2002 no fishing is permitted
within twelve miles of the islands and visitors are not allowed
to set foot upon the islands. This was my third trip to the
Revillagigedo Archipelago, and it has certainly changed for
the better since my first dive some 20 years ago. The mantas
are still there in great numbers and have not lost their
curiosity of divers and their affection for their bubbles, but
the other sharks are more plentiful and more curious of
divers. In the old days we only saw a few hammerheads or
silkies from a distance: now we comfortably photographed
them at close range. As a photographer it is insufficient
The Crew of Rocio Del Mar
Rocio del Mar is a love story. It began with the marriage of Dora, a real estate
broker in Phoenix, and Lolo, a captain and fisherman. Both shared the love of
the Sea and of diving. They concocted an idea to build a liveaboard. Lolo, having
grown up in Puerto Penasco, had many friends and family there, and, with the
help of these individuals, construction began. They enlisted expert craftsman
and engineer Aurellio, his apprentice Julio, fisherman brothers Everado and
Beto, and Jorge with a background in construction. The project began.
After three years of hard work, Rocio Del Mar set out for its first exploration trip
in 2009. An even more amazing part of this story is that these individuals became so invested in this project they stayed together
to run the operation. Dora became the ships divemaster; Lolo the captain; Juliio, and Everado the panga drivers; Jorge and Beto
deck hands; and Aurellio the ship’s engineer.
When divers set foot aboard this ship there is an instant feeling of camaraderie. You can feel the pride and friendships that
have been built in every corner of the ship. The crew, now grown to nine, brings Mexican hospitality, a jovial atmosphere, and
phenomenal customer service. Once aboard you become part of the Rocio Del Mar family and become part of their story.
DIVE DIRECTORY :: TROPICAL
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FLORIDA
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Windjammer 954.776.4232
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REVILLAGIGEDO ARCHIPELAGO
The Solmar V is a luxurious platform to visit Socorro
simply to see an animal, it is about having the time for prolonged encounters
to acquire images that allow the animals to engage in natural behavior and
share their most intimate moments. These encounters are what make the
Revillagigedo Archipelago so special.
I have dived these islands many times and the Solmar V, with its most
experienced and helpful crew, elegant glass and brass décor, comfortable
staterooms, and Chef Tony’s great food, is my choice to visit the Revillagigedo
Archipelago (www.solmarv.com). It is a good idea to arrive a day early and stay
a few days after your trip to relax and enjoy the ambiance of Cabo San Lucas.
The Solmar Resort hotels (www.solmar.com) are the place to stay. They are a
short walk from downtown Cabo San Lucas, but are at Lands End on a secluded
beach with a terrific view and facilities. Playa Grande, down the street, is
notably spectacular with multiple pools, great restaurants, and marble
adorned rooms.
Kosrae Village Ecolodge 691.370.348
www.kosraevillage.com
PALAU
PHILIPPINES
Marco Vincent Dive Resort
[email protected]
Siren Fleet Liveaboards
www.sirenfleet.com 866.258.6398
ROATAN
Coco View Resort 800.510.8164
www.cocoviewresort.com
Turquoise Bay Resort 504.2413.2229
www.turquoisebayresort.com
TRAVEL WHOLESALE
Deep Blue Adventures 888.266.2209
www.deepblueadventures.com
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