Paper 19. Karl Litne..

17/04/16 Anti-ageing Skin care conference, Royal College
of Physicians. London 7 and 8 June 2016
Anti-age in a new light: "feeling good = feeling young”!
Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner
KAL’IDEES S.A.S.
Beauty Ideas Consulting
WHY are we gathered here today?
•  Egyptians: « would not be caught dead without it »!
•  ‘A woman without paint is like food without salt’
–  Plautus (254 BC – 184 BC)
•  ‘
•  A woman without perfume has no future’
–  P. Valéry (or Coco Chanel?)
2
1 17/04/16 Cosmetic claims
The last 50 years...
«immediately
after
application, the
actives
penetrate in
depth into the
tissue, clean
and sanitize the
skin from the
inside and the
outside…
Pimples hurt…
Clean and
healthy skin!
Jade
1959
1970
1986
2000
2006
2013?
17/04/16
3
Cosmetic claims
The last 50 years...
Cre
me
21
Creme 21 contains
three vitamins which
protect, regenerate
the skin, making it
more resistant and
stimulate blood
circulation
1959
1970
1986
2000
2006
2011?
17/04/16
4
2 17/04/16 Cosmetic claims
The last 50 years...
§  measurably firmer,
§  measurably more
elastic,
§  measurably softer and
smoother,
§  after each application
richer in moisture over
15 hours,
§  visibly improved skin
texture.
1959
1970
1986
2000
2006
2011?
17/04/16
5
Suggestive advertisements
of the past…
6
3 17/04/16 Skincare science faces a paradigm shift
•  The market needs new language
•  The NEW science is neurocosmetic:
because the Brain is intricately involved in the skin care benefits
obtained from a cosmetic product.
Two main drivers behind this shift:
China regulation
Saturation of ideas
7
1. China regula<ons Posi<ve list of allowed ingredients About 8000 ingredients are listed Process of addi<on Very slow Difficult Costly Only about 5 « new » ingredients added in 10 years! The consequence: Ø Pseudo-­‐innova<on with established ingredients, repackaged Ø Innova&on must occur in different domains 8
4 17/04/16 2. Satura<on of « ac<ve concepts » Lack of novelty in possible claims « Active » Ingredients galore….
Yes, but:
— > 535 « anti-age/anti-wrinkle » Actives at In-Cosmetics
2016
— We have done quite everything we can do on the skin
Ø Do we really need another plant extract that
« decreases crow’s feet by ≈20%
in 2 months » (on a panel of 20 people) »?
The Future? e.g.
« Improve your self-esteem by 85%! »
10
5 17/04/16 “There is no cosme&c for beauty like happiness." -­‐ Lady Blessington Beauty is but the promise of happiness. Stendhal connect • innnovate • accelerate 11 « Happiness = Well-Being? »
Terms of Wellness:
•  Happiness
•  Relaxation
•  No stress
•  No Pain
•  …
Your skin is never as radiant
as when you are happy!
12
6 17/04/16 The Brain and the Skin:
Neurocosmetics
—  Embryological « brothers » (Prof. Misery,
France):
—  In utero, both skin cells and brain cells
develop from the same kind of embryonic
tissue, called ectoderm.
—  Influence of stress on skin has
been known for some time
But what about happiness?
13
Skin is our greatest sensory organ
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7 17/04/16 Hedonics? The study of pleasure
J. Bentham: An Introduction to the Principles
of Morals and Legislation, London, 1789,
chapt. 4
All of man's life is a search for pleasure,
a shunning of pain
'felicific calculus’:
« unit of pleasure » = f (intensity, duration,
etc. ).
Jeremy Bentham (1748-1832)
English Philosopher
As Lord Kelvin said:
to measure is to know.
15
Cosme<cs is about: •  Luxury •  Pleasure •  Well being •  Self esteem Feeling/Looking YOUNG! 16
8 17/04/16 Is it possible to measure Well-Being
as “positive emotions”?
Yes, because EMOTIONS:
Ü  Influence our decisions
(conscious and unconscious)
Ü Impact our motivation and
behavior
Ü Determine our preferences
Ü Generate Expressions and
Humoral reactions
Slide adapted from Prof. Aubert, Tours (FR)
17
Methods for measuring
« Well being »
•  Physical:
–  Lie detector
–  Neurometer
–  Mydriasis
–  Electromyography
–  Heart beat and respiration
frequency
–  Posture
–  Prosody
–  …
•  Mental:
–  Self evaluationMCQ
–  Stroop test
–  Vigilance tests
–  Sleep analysis
–  Other ?
• Biochemical:
– fMRI
– PET scan
– Cortisol / saliva
– DHEA, α-amylase, IgA
18
9 17/04/16 19
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics:
LECIGEL
Functional ingredients: « Happiness in a Jar »
20
10 17/04/16 Lucas Meyer Cosmetics: Well-being measured !
Functional ingredients: « Happiness in a Jar »
Various techniques employed: Analysis of facial microexpressions Speech analysis (Prodosy): frequency, volume Mydriasis (diameter of pupilla) Skin conductance (« lie detector ») 21
21
APPEARANCE
22 11 17/04/16 SKIN RADIANCE
Centcyamine from Cornflower
DISAPPEARANCE OF RED SPOTS
ON 90% OF THE VOLUNTEERS
Volunteers numbers
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 15 -­‐5 -­‐15 -­‐25 A highly
significant
reduction was
measured
-­‐35 -­‐45 -­‐55 -­‐65 -­‐75 Average score of -24
Up to a score of -71
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SKIN RADIANCE
Self assessment every 2 days
IMPROVED SKIN RADIANCE
Centcyamine
Clotholine® 0,3 Placebo 0,25 0,2 Autoscore Score measured
5 The intensity of red
spots was
quantified by
VISIA®Score.
0,15 0,1 0,05 0 0 -­‐0,05 10 20 30 40 50 Days of use The skin homogeneity and radiance were quantified
by self-evaluation every 2 days by each volunteer.
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12 17/04/16 WELL BEING QUESTIONNAIRE: EMMBEP
Échelle de Mesure des Manifestations du Bien-Être Psychologique
(Scale for Measuring Manifestations of Psychological Well-Being)
This questionnaire gives overall scores of Well- Being
but also teaches about sub-categories such as
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
Self-esteem
Happiness
Sociability
Commitment
Self control
Emotional Stability
25 Examples of the 47 questions
During the last month:
Never
rarely
half of the time
1
2
3
1) I felt confident
frequently
4
almost always
5
2) I was happy with my achievements, I was proud of myself
3) I was dynamic, I undertook plenty of things
4) I felt emotionally balanced
5) I felt I was loved and appreciated
6) I had aims, ambitions
7) I enjoyed having fun, doing sports, practicing my hobbies and preferred
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activites
13 17/04/16 Results
The volunteers using the verum cream in contrast to
those using placebo
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
have estimated being happier (+50),
more peaceful (+60),
more committed (+80),
more stable in the society (+20),
with an improved global wellness (+30).
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“Correlation does not indicate causation!”
• 
• 
• 
• 
BUT coherence in :
Pertinent in vitro data,
instrumental measurement on panelists
detailed, results-oriented, subjective self-evaluation (auto-scoring)
Well-being questionnaires
> a new path to cosmetic research and marketing?
A novel sensorial, perceptional and neuroscientific approach
• 
• 
• 
• 
to demonstrate consumer perceivable cosmetic benefits
of more subjective and psychological nature
can thus be based on specifically targeted ingredients
and original pertinent measurement methods.
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14 17/04/16 Conclusion :
Cosmetic claims should:
—  Be based on credible (verifiable) evidence
—  But that does not require standardisation!
—  Be positive and not denigrating
—  Not be based on a political agenda (free of…)
Integrate the real consumer motivation: hedonics!
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Thank you for your
attention!
Questions?
30
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