- Te Aho o Te Kura Pounamu

hangarau
technology
te1001
it’s in the bag – booklet 1
ncea level 1
2011/1
technology
ncea level 1
Expected time to complete work
This work will take you about 40 hours to complete.
This topic is made up of three booklets and their accompanying journals. All your work will
be recorded in the three journals.
You need to complete all three journals before you can be assessed for the achievement standards.
You will work towards the following standards:
Achievement Standard 91047 (Version 1) Generic Technology 1.4
Undertake development to make a prototype to address a brief
Level 1, Internal
6 credits
Achievement Standard 91058 (Version 1) Construction and Mechanical Technologies 1.21
Implement basic procedures using textile materials to make a specified product
Level 1, Internal
6 credits
In this booklet you will focus on these learning outcomes:
•• developing skills in construction
•• testing and evaluating for fitness for purpose
•• applying safe sewing room practices
•• investigating current practices and processes to develop a prototype
•• following a set of techniques to make a product that meets specifications.
You will continue to work towards these standards in booklets TE1002 and TE1003.
Copyright © 2011 Board of Trustees of Te Aho o Te Kura Pounamu, Private Bag 39992, Wellington Mail Centre, Lower Hutt 5045,
New Zealand. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without
the written permission of Te Aho o Te Kura Pounamu.
© te ah o o te k u ra p ou n am u
contents
1
Investigation
2
Sewing skills
3
Testing for quality
4
Bag techniques
5
Construct a drawstring bag
6
Fitness for purpose
7
Evaluation
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how to do the work
When you see:
1A
Complete the activity.
Talk to someone about your work.
Turn to your journal.
Take photos.
Included in this pack:
•• a journal TE1001J
•• a bag pattern TE1001A
You will need:
•• a sewing machine
•• a digital camera
•• pieces of different fabric and old clothes as a source of fabric
•• 1m calico fabric or coloured cotton
•• 80cm cord or ribbon for drawstring bag
•• Your own sewing kit containing
–– pins
–– needles
–– threads
–– scissors
–– quick unpick
–– safety pin.
Resource overview
Supervisor requirement: You will need a person to act as your supervisor/consultant. They will be
able to give you feedback and take photos of you working.
Diagrams:
Fabric right side
4
TE1001
Fabric wrong side
© te ah o o te k u ra p ou n a mu
investigation
learning outcome
Investigate current practices and processes to develop a prototype.
learning intention
In this lesson you will:
•• investigate bag design and use.
introduction
istock
istock
From the earliest times, people have made carriers to take things from place to place.
Today people have a range of bags for different purposes. They may have:
•• shopping bags
•• school bags
•• beach bags
•• holiday bags.
© te ah o o t e k ur a p o un a m u
istock
bigstock
bigstock
bigstock
istock
bigstock
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investigation
We use bags today:
•• to make it easy to carry a lot of things at once
Open top – easy to load.
Strong fabric.
•• to keep things safe
istock
Wide handles – comfortable to carry.
Flat base for standing.
Bright colour – easy to find.
istock
Secure fastening.
Strong fabric to protect contents.
•• to store things.
bigstock
Expanding size.
Secure fastening.
Turn to your journal.
1A
Investigate and sketch the bags your family use.
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sewing skills
learning outcome
Apply safe sewing room practices.
Develop skills in construction.
learning intentions
In this lesson you will:
•• set up a safe work area
•• use a sewing machine to practise basic sewing techniques.
equipment
Thread
Needles
Dressmaking scissors
Snips
Thread
istock
2
Tape measure
You will need:
•• a sewing machine
•• your sewing kit
•• scrap fabric.
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sewing skills
sewing safely
You need to follow safe work practices when you are sewing to keep you and your family safe with
electrical and sharp equipment in the sewing area.
bigstock
personal safety
Turn to your journal.
2A
Check how safe your work area is. Ask your supervisor to check it too.
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sewing skills
ready to sew
Ask your supervisor to take photos of you while you are sewing.
These are threading instructions for a Bernina machine.
12
Setting up the sewing computer
Winding the bobbin
Winding the bobbin
power switch on
• place empty bobbin on
spindle
• turn
• following
the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear
guide and round the pre-tension stud
• wind the thread two to three times around the empty bobbin
and cut off any excess thread on the thread cutter
• press the engaging lever against the bobbin
• press the foot control
• the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
• remove the bobbin
thread cutter
• cut the thread on the thread
cutter
BERNINA NEW ZEALAND
Note:
When winding the bobbin
on the vertical spool holder
(p. 15), it may be necessary to
adjust the speed.
033644.50.04_1009_B215_EN
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Setting up the sewing computer
Inserting the bobbin
Insert the bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the
thread runs clockwise.
Pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot.
Pull the thread to the left under
the spring until ...
... it lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
The bobbin must turn clockwise when thread is pulled.
changing the needle
Removing the needle
the needle
power switch to «0»
• lower the presser foot
• loosen the needle clamp screw
• pull the needle down to remove
• raise
Inserting the needle
• flat side of needle to the back
• insert the needle as far as it will go
• tighten the needle clamp screw
BERNINA NEW ZEALAND
• turn
please refer to the
safety instruction!
033644.50.04_1009_B215_EN
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sewing skills
Setting up the sewing computer
13
Bobbin case
A
to insert the bobbin case
the bobbin case latch
• the finger on the case should
point upwards
• insert so that it clicks into
place
• hold
Bobbin thread cutter
the bobbin case
• take the thread over cutter A
• thread is cut
• close the bobbin cover
• insert
please refer to the
safety instruction!
Note:
the bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as
the loose end is just the right
length to start sewing.
BERNINA NEW ZEALAND
to remove the bobbin case
• raise the needle
• turn power switch to «0»
• open the bobbin cover
• grasp the latch of the bobbin
case
• remove case
033644.50.04_1009_B215_EN
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Setting up the sewing computer
threading the upper thread
c
A
D
B
E
please refer to the
safety instruction!
033644.50.04_1009_B215_EN
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BERNINA NEW ZEALAND
Attaching the thread spool
• raise the needle and the presser foot
• switch the power off
• attach the foam pad
• place spool on pin (thread unwinds clockwise)
• attach the appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool disc is disc
size. There must be no clearance between the disc and the spool
• take thread through rear guide A
• then into slit of upper thread tension
• pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B
• take thread up to the left of the cover to c in the direction of
the arrow, placing it in the take-up level
• take thread down and through guides D and E
sewing skills
Setting up the sewing computer
19
thread tension
3
A
5
the basic setting
• is indicated when the red line on the tension
adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A
• the tension does not need adjusting for normal
sewing work
• for special sewing work, the tension can be
adjusted to suit the fabric
the tension is factory set for the best results.
metrosene 100/2 (Arova mettler, switzerland)
is used to set both the upper and lower thread
tension.
perfect stitch formation
the stitch formation is in the fabric
for example:
If other sewing or embroidery threads are used,
the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric
and chosen stitch.
•
tension
upper thread tension too tight
the lower thread is pulled more to the right
side of the fabric
• to reduce the upper thread tension turn tension
adjustment wheel to 3–1
•
Metallic thread
approx. 3
Monofilament
approx. 2–4
upper thread tension too loose
the upper thread is pulled more to the wrong
side of the fabric
• to increase the upper thread tension turn
tension adjustment wheel to 5–10
BERNINA NEW ZEALAND
•
033644.50.04_1009_B215_EN
threading the machine
Start by threading up the sewing machine. Check the machine stitch and tension by sewing on
scrap fabric. Consult your supervisor if you need help with this.
The machine should be set:
•• to do a medium sized-straight stitch.
The thread tension:
•• should look the same on both sides of the fabric.
Make sure the machine is sewing well before you start the sewing trials.
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sewing skills
sewing trials
Read each section. Look at the pictures, then do the activity.
straight stitch
bigstock
As you sew, use the lines on the stitch plate. To sew a straight seam, put the edge of your fabric
against a line with the bulk of your fabric to the left of the needle.
Sew several lines of stitching on scrap fabric until you can sew straight lines. Check tension and
stitch length.
zig-zag stitch
Set the dials to zig-zag stitch. Practise zig-zag on the edge of the fabric.
Fabric right side
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Fabric wrong side
© te ah o o te k u ra p ou n amu
sewing skills
sewing a plain seam
Use your own scrap fabric. Find some firm fabric, not too thick.
Cut out two pieces of fabric 10 cm x 10 cm.
Put the two pieces together so that you will sew on double fabric. The two edges must be
exactly together.
Pin the fabric together with the pins at right angles to the seam edge.
Use the guide line on the stitch plate to sew a straight seam. Leave the pins in the fabric. Sew
over them.
wrong side
Sew:
•• machine sew 1.5 cm from the edge – which line will this be on the stitch plate?
•• reverse at beginning and end to stop sewing coming undone
•• trim off thread ends.
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sewing skills
finishing the seam
To reduce bulk, trim the seam to 1 cm wide.
Set the machine to wide zig-zag stitch.
Sew:
•• zig-zag right on the edge – needle goes on and off the fabric
•• reverse at the beginning and end – to stop sewing coming undone
•• trim off thread ends.
Press the seam to one side with an iron or your fingers.
wrong side
This is your first trial seam. Do another one. Practise until you can sew accurately.
You will need at least two extra seams for testing in the next section.
Turn to your journal.
2B
Pin in your most accurate sewing trial. Evaluate. Complete the reflection and the checkpoint.
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3
testing for quality
learning outcome
Test and evaluate for fitness for purpose.
learning intention
In this lesson you will:
•• apply testing techniques to sewing samples.
why test?
Testing is a step in the development of a product. By testing you can be sure of a good
quality product.
Have photos taken of you doing the tests.
seam strength test
Use one of your seam trials. Hold the fabric on both sides of the seam. Pull as hard as you can.
If your seam holds together, it is strong and well finished and likely to be useful for bag making.
If the stitching starts to come undone you will need to check that you are reversing strongly at
the beginning and end.
Turn to your journal.
3A
Record the results. Attach the test sample and the photo.
seam finish test
Use another seam trial to test the zig-zag finishing. Pull at the zig-zag edge.
Does the edge pull away, fray out or come undone? If not, it is well done.
If it does pull off or fray out, you will need to zig-zag over again.
Does the stitching come undone? You will need to reverse at the ends.
Turn to your journal.
3B
Record the results. Attach the test sample and the photo. Complete the reflections and
checkpoint.
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4
bag techniques
learning outcome
Investigate current practices and processes to develop a prototype.
learning intention
In this lesson you will:
•• identify techniques used in bag design.
Most bags are sewn together. A range of techniques is used to:
•• join the bag sections together
•• make them able to be fastened and carried.
Handles – topstitched for appearance.
Seams – to join the pieces together.
Sewing – a zip fastening technique.
Topstitching – to attach pocket.
Turn to your journal.
4A
Identify construction techniques.
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construct a drawstring bag
learning outcome
Follow a set of techniques to make a product that meets specification.
learning intention
In this lesson you will:
•• follow a brief to construct a drawstring bag.
introduction
The brief gives a clear plan of what you are going to do. It shows the exact requirements
you need.
Briefs are used by designers, engineers, architects and other people to guide the development of
a project.
Examples of jobs that would have a brief are:
istock
Architects
An architect would be given a brief to design a specific building.
Fashion
designers
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A fashion designer could be given a brief to design an outfit for a special occasion.
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construct a drawstring bag
Here is the brief you will follow.
the brief
conceptual statement
Construct a drawstring bag to hold small items .
specifications
Your bag must:
•• have a purpose
•• be made following a given pattern
•• be accurately sewn
•• be neatly finished.
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construct a drawstring bag
work plans
When you sew you follow a series of steps. These steps can be shown in a work plan. Following a
plan helps you to be efficient.
Task
Estimate
time for
each task
1. Collect fabric, pattern and equipment.
Time you
took
Being efficient means
being productive with
little waste of time,
resources, energy, etc.
2. Lay pattern on fabric. Pin. Cut out.
3. Follow the instructions to make the bag in
the order given.
4. Pin and sew bag.
5. Trim seams and zig-zag, or overlock.
6. Make casing at top edge. Thread cord.
7. Iron, turn to right side.
8. Test bag for fit and finish.
9. Evaluate
When you make your bag, you will follow this work order.
Turn to your journal.
5A
List the uses you have for a small bag.
Get ready for sewing by:
•• setting up equipment
•• checking safety
•• collecting resources
•• planning time.
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construct a drawstring bag
safety
Turn to your journal.
5B
Re-check your sewing area for safety. Add any hazards that you can see in your work area to
the checklist.
collect resources
You need:
•• coloured bag fabric (60 cm x 30 cm) or use the calico
•• matching thread
•• 1 m cord
•• the bag pattern TE1001A.
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istock
construct a drawstring bag
You will also use:
•• the sewing machine
•• your sewing equipment •• an iron and ironing board or table.
Turn to your journal.
5C
Estimate the time needed to make the bag.
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construct a drawstring bag
construct the bag
Using your fabric and the bag pattern:
1. Pin the pattern towards one side of the fabric with the straight grain arrow parallel to the
long edge. Cut out.
2. Take the pattern off the fabric.
3. Fold the bag in half, with the right sides of the fabric together, so that the short sides are at
the top. Pin sides together.
4. On one side:
–– reverse at start and finish
–– sew 1.5 cm seam down one side.
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Remember to put the edge of the fabric on the 1.5 guideline, with the bulk of the fabric to the left of the needle.
TE1001
© te ah o o te k u ra p ou n amu
construct a drawstring bag
5. On the other side you need to leave a gap for the drawstring:
5 cm
2 cm gap
5 cm
2 cm gap
Stitch 1.5 cm seam
Fold.
–– Start at the top, stitch 5 cm down. Stop. Remember to reverse at the start and finish.
–– Measure a 2 cm gap and sew the rest of the seam.
–– Reverse at start and finish.
6. Trim the seam edges up to 1 cm.
7. Zig-zag the edges to finish – not over the gap.
2 cm gap
Zig-zag
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construct a drawstring bag
8. To make the casing for the drawstring, turn under 1 cm around the top edge. Press with an
iron or your fingers.
Turn 1 cm.
9. Turn under another 3 cm. Pin and stitch close to the bottom edge of the casing.
10.Sew again close to the top edge.
Stitch close
to the top edge.
Stitch close to
the bottom edge.
11.Press with an iron. Turn the bag right-side out.
12.Use a safety pin to thread the cord through casing.
Safety pin
Knot cord.
Thread cord into opening.
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construct a drawstring bag
istock
13.Tie ends of the cord together.
Turn to your journal.
5D
Complete the work plan by recording how long each task took.
5E
Stick in the photos of making the bag and the finished bag.
5F
Evaluate your construction skills.
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6
fitness for purpose
learning outcome
Test for fitness for purpose.
learning intention
In this lesson you will learn to:
•• test and trial for fitness for purpose.
performance test your bag
Collect together the items you planned to put in your bag. Put them in the bag.
Take a photo of your bag holding the items.
Does your bag hold all it is supposed to hold?
Does the drawstring pull up smoothly?
Are the seams strong enough?
Turn to your journal.
6A
Record the results with comments.
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7
evaluation
learning outcome
Evaluate for fitness for purpose.
learning intention
In this lesson you will learn to:
•• evaluate the bag against the brief.
evaluation against the brief
Turn to your journal.
7A
Evaluate your bag against the brief. Complete the reflection and the checkpoint.
When you have finished your work in the journal:
•• complete the self-assessment at the back
•• fix your trials and activities securely
•• fill in the cover sheet on the back
•• send your journal to Te Kura, The Correspondence School along with your
drawstring bag.
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© te ah o o te k u ra p ou n am u
acknowledgements
Every effort has been made to acknowledge and contact copyright holders. Te Aho o Te Kura Pounamu apologises for any
omissions and welcomes more accurate information.
Photos
Cover: Red School Back Pack, www.istockphoto.com, #7053891; Beach items, www.istockphoto.com, #5911327
Middle East purses, www.istockphoto.com, #7915025
Groceries in canvas tote, www.istockphoto.com, #8222156
Traditional Japanese bag, www.istockphoto.com, #2512624
Architects, www.istockphoto.com, #6806763
Red first aid kit, www.istockphoto.com, #3833506
Knot, www.istockphoto.com, #15291616
Young female designer, www.istockphoto.com, #13881404
Sewing kit, www.istockphoto.com, #13933903
Spools of thread, www.istockphoto.com, #13630393
Bag, www.istockphoto.com, #11341422
Hiking equipment, www.bigstockphoto.com, #8147170
Beach bag, www.bigstockphoto.com, #7729135
Teen uses sewing machine, www.bigstockphoto.com, #7140277
Fallen make up case, www.bigstockphoto.com, #4118545
Hand bag, www.bigstockphoto.com, #2651923
Green, reusable shopping bag, www.bigstockphoto.com, #14341232
Sewing machine, www.bigstockphoto.com, #10844453
Illustrations
Text and illustrations: ‘Threading the upper thread’; ‘Thread tension’; ‘Inserting the bobbin’; ‘Removing the bobbin case’; Bernina
Manual Guide, © Bernina New Zealand, Lower Hutt, Wellington: NZ. Used by permission.
All other illustrations copyrighted to Te Aho o Te Kura Pounamu, Wellington, NZ.
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