fab fireplace (Page 1)

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simply stated
Shaker clock
Like wall clocks built by the
Shakers in the early 19th
century, our version features
clean, unadorned design lines.
Although the Shakers frowned
upon watches, wall clocks
abounded. Today, collectors
seek out the originals and pay
dearly for them.
DP-00296
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2004
Page 1 of 8
H
1" hole
C
1 EXPLODED VIEW
#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw
4"
‡ x 4" notch
4fi"
‹" rabbet fi" deep
B
#19 x ‡" brads
‡" rabbet
‹" deep
D
Movement
and
pendulum
D
Screw clock face to F
(screws supplied
with clock face).
„" pilot hole
D
›" hole
G
F
1‹"
‹"
A
E
Clock face
Note: Back edge
of B and C
are flush.
1‹"
External-threaded nut
A
‹"
‹" rabbet fi" deep
B
‡" rabbet ‹" deep
Edge round
13"
C
To build your own Shaker-style classic, use a solid panel in the door bottom.
Or, for a more modern appearance and a view of the pendulum (something
considered showy and therefore an unusual Shaker practice), try a glass insert.
Page 2 of 8
TM
1a ROUTING DETAIL
1b CLOCK SUPPORT DETAIL
1" hole
Center
bit
along
edge
of
board.
Fence
Back side of case
Edge-rounding bit
7⁄64" pilot holes
‡" deep
H
C
C
Router table
B
¸" hole,
countersunk
G
(Section view)
Start with the cherry
clock case
7
Mark the ‡×4" notch on the
back edge of the top exterior
part (C), where shown on Drawing 1.
With a bandsaw or scrollsaw, cut
the marked notch to shape.
1
From ‡"-thick cherry, cut the
sides (A) and interior top and
bottom (B) to the sizes listed in the
Materials List.
Cut or rout a ‡" rabbet ‹" deep
across the ends and a ‹" rabbet
fi" deep along the back inside edge
of both side pieces, where shown on
Drawing 1. Then, form a ‹" rabbet
fi" deep along the back edge of the
top and bottom interior pieces (B).
Glue and clamp the clock
assembly (A, B), checking for
square. Remove excess glue with a
damp cloth.
Cut the exterior top and bottom
pieces (C) to size.
Fit your table-mounted router
with an edge-rounding bit (we
used a Craftsman 26337) and fence.
Position the fence and bit, where
shown on Drawing 1a. Using the
same detail for reference, position
the fence and bit, where shown.
(We test-cut ‡" scrap stock first to
verify that the routed cut was
centered along the edge of the
stock.)
Rout the front and side edges
(not the back edge) of the
exterior top and bottom pieces (C).
When making the last cut (across
the grain), use a piece of scrap stock
to reduce splintering, as shown on
Drawing 2.
Time to add cleats, clock
face, support, and back
2
1
Cut the three cleats (D) to size.
Glue and clamp them to the
inside of the case, where shown on
Drawing 1.
Cut the bottom cleat (E) and the
clock-face panel (F) to size.
Glue the bottom cleat to the front
bottom edge of the clock-face
panel, with the ends and bottom
edges flush, where shown on
Drawing 1.
Place the clock face on the
clock-face panel (F). Trace the
shaft hole and four screw mounting
holes from the clock-face openings
onto the plywood panel. Remove
the clock face, and drill a ›" shaft
hole where marked. Then, drill four
„" pilot holes where marked.
Measure the opening, and cut
the back panel (G) to size from
‹" cherry plywood.
Transfer Drawing 5 {the full-size
half-round clock-support (H)
outline} and the three hole
centerpoints to ‡" cherry. Bore a 1"
hole where marked. Next, drill and
countersink a pair of ¸" shank
holes where marked.
2
3
4
5
3
4
5
6
6
7
Cut the clock support to shape.
Sand the radiused edge smooth
to remove the saw marks.
Glue the clock support into the
notch in the exterior top piece
(C). Then, using the previously
drilled shank holes in the notch as
guides, drill a pair of 7⁄64" pilot holes
‡" deep into the top piece (C). Drill
the same sized mounting hole
through the top interior piece (B)
and into the support, where shown
on Drawing 1 and accompanying
Drawing 1b. Drive a trio of #8×1fi"
wood screws to further secure the
clock support to the clock
assembly.
Now for the door
1
2
Cut door stiles (I), top and
bottom rails (J), and center rail
(K) to size.
Fit your tablesaw with a ‹"
dado blade, and cut a ‹" groove
›" deep centered along one edge of
the stiles and the top and bottom
rails and both edges of the center
rail, as shown in Photo A.
Note: We used a feather board to
keep the pieces firmly against the
fence. We test-cut scrap to verify
that the groove was accurately
centered on the edge.)
Page 3 of 8
TM
2 ROUTING THE TOP AND BOTTOM
Scrap stock against
back edge
to prevent
corner from
chipping.
C
H
‡ x 2fi" brass no-mortise hinge
C
Edge-rounding
bit
A
„" pilot hole
Mitered corners
#19 x fi" brad
1fi"
A
M
¤ x 10Ø x 10Ø"
glass
25fi"
28"
1‹"
G
„" pilot hole
J
10"
M
2"
1fi"
B
1fi"
ı" hole
¨" deep
2"
ˇ" round
magnetic
catch
K
fl"
I
17Œ"
31Œ"
‹" grooves
›" deep
fl"
Hole to fit knob tenon
L
I
1‹"
J
Œ" Shaker knob
16"
10fl"
3 DOOR
fl" rabbets ‹" deep
Magnetic catch screw
(requires a „" hole ‹" deep)
Page 4 of 8
TM
3
4
3a GLASS DETAIL
J
#19 x fi" brad
›"
M
›" rabbet fi" deep,
routed after door
is assembled
Glass
5
6
7
3b PANEL DETAIL
Glass
M
8
Add the finish, hardware, and
movement
›" rabbet
fi" deep,
routed after door
is assembled
‹"
‹" groove
›" deep
K
L
3c TENON DETAIL
1
Stain and/or finish the case, door, back panel,
knob, and glass stops as desired. (We left ours
unstained, and applied three coats of satin
polyurethane.)
Install the glass and the glass stops. (See Drawing 3a
for reference.) Screw the clock face to the plywood
panel (F).
Attach the hinges to the front edge of the right-hand
side piece (A), where shown on Drawing 3. Then,
fasten the hinges to the door stile. When positioning
the door for attaching the hinges, allow a „" gap
between the clock case and the top and bottom of the
door.
Insert the magnetic catches into the previously
drilled holes, and mark their mating locations on
the back face of the door stile. Drill a pair of mounting
holes in the back face of the door, and drive the screws,
which act as strike plates.
Brad the back panel (G) into the rabbet in the clock
back.
Stick the clock shaft through the hole in the
plywood panel, and fasten the movement (minus
the pendulum) to the panel and clock face with the
external-threaded nut. Add the hands to the clock
shaft. Hang the clock on the wall (or a Shaker peg, as
shown in the opening photographs). Add the
pendulum and battery, and set the time. ¿
2
3
4
‹"
5
6
‹" groove
›" deep
J
‹ x ›"
tenon
As shown in Photo B, cut a ‹" tenon ›" long
across the ends of the three rails (J, K). (See
Drawing 3c.)
If you want to install the solid cherry panel (L)
instead of a glass insert, cut two 5fi×19" pieces of
fi" stock. (We planed ‡" stock to fi" thick.) Edge-join
the fi"-thick pieces, checking that the surfaces and
ends are flush. Later, trim both ends and one edge to
cut the edge-joined cherry panel to finished size. Sand
the panel. Cut or rout a fl" rabbet ‹" deep along all
front edges of the panel, where shown on Drawing 3.
Glue and clamp the door pieces—with the door
panel dry-fitted in place, if you’re using it—
checking for square. (See Drawing 3b for reference.)
Fit your router with a ›" rabbeting bit. If you plan
to fit both the upper and lower openings with glass,
rout along the back inside edge of both openings in the
door. (See Drawings 3a, 3b, and 4 for reference.)
Cut four glass stops (M) to size, miter-cutting the
ends for the top opening. Cut the bottom opening
glass stops (M, N) if required. Snip the head off a
#19×fi" brad, chuck the brad into your portable
electric drill, and use the brad as a bit to drill pilot
holes through the glass stops 1fi" in from the ends,
where shown on Drawing 3.
Drill the holes for the knob and magnetic catches.
Glue the knob in place.
›"
/K
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
Project design: James R. Downing
Illustrations: Kim Downing; Mike Henry
Photographs: Hopkins Associates
Page 5 of 8
TM
A
J
K
To ensure full-size patterns are correct
size, your printer should be set to print
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure
full-size patterns to verify size.
‹
fi
‡
1"
1" hole
Feather board
H
SUPPORT
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
Location of H on C
¸" hole, countersunk
‹" groove ›" deep
Cut a ‹" groove ›" deep centered
along the door parts. Clamp a feather
board securely to your saw table to hold
the pieces firmly against the fence.
B
4"
5 HALF-ROUND CLOCK-SUPPORT
Stop
J
K
Tenon to fit into ‹" groove
Cut a ‹" tenon ›" long across the ends of the rails. Clamp a stop to the miter-gauge
fence for consistent tenon lengths.
Page 6 of 8
TM
TM
Page 7 of 8
N
J
Inside face shown
Mitered corner
„" pilot hole
#19 x fi" brad
I
M
I
4 LOWER GLASS INSTALLATION
de
›" rabbet fi" deep,
routed after door
is assembled
N
¤ x 10fl x 18¨" glass
Materials List
Want to learn
more about Shaker
craftsmanship?
FINISHED SIZE
Clock Case
T
W
L
Matl. Qty.
A sides
‡"
6" 32"
C
2
B int. top & bottom ‡"
6" 11fi"
C
2
C ext. top & bottom ‡" 7¤" 13"
C
2
D cleats
‡"
‡" 11"
C
3
E bottom cleat
‡"
1" 11"
C
1
F panel
‹" 11" 11‡" CP
1
G back panel
‹" 12" 31fi" CP
1
H support
‡"
4" 2‡"
C
1
Door
I stiles
‡" 1‹" 31Œ"
C
2
J top & bottom rails ‡" 1‹" 10‡"
C
2
K center rail
‡" 1fi" 10‡"
C
1
L* panel
fi" 10fl" 18¨" EC
1
M stops
‹" ‹" 10‡"
C
4
N stops
‹" ‹" 18fl"
C
2
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Materials key: C–cherry, CP–cherry plywood,
EC–edge-joined cherry.
Supplies: #19×fi" brads, #19ׇ" brads, #8×1fi"
flathead wood screws, ¤×10Ø×10Ø" glass, clear
finish.
For an insight into the
austere lives of the
Shakers, their craftsmanship
aimed at function not fancy,
and their furniture, we’d like
to recommend The Book of
Shaker Furniture by John
Kassay, The University of
Massachusetts Press,
Amherst. You can find it at
www.amazon.com.
Cutting Diagram
J
C
C
Buying Guide
‡ x 7‹ x 48" Cherry
L
Shaker clock kit. Quartz pendulum movement,
Shaker hands and dial, Œ" Shaker knob, two ‡×2fi"
brass no-mortise hinges, two ˇ" magnetic catches.
Turncraft Clocks Inc., PO Box 100, Mound, MN 553640100, or 800/544-1711 to order.
L
fi x 7‹ x 48" Cherry
F
The purchase of these plans does not
transfer any copyright or other ownership
interest in the plans, the design or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale not offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.
G
‹ x 24 x 48" Cherry plywood
E
K
A
*N
I
D
A
‡ x 9‹ x 96" Cherry
*M
*M
B
B
H
*Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
Page 8 of 8
TM
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