Canal Saint Martin Walking Tour

Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
Cont .
1 . Rue du Fa ubourg du Te m ple
a nd t he qua i de Je m m a pe s
2 . La M a rine
3 . Che z Prune
4 . Jours de Fê t e
5.
6.
7.
8.
L’H ôpit a l Sa int -Louis
Le Ca m bodge
Philou
M a r t y Tat t oo
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
2
Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
Cont .
9 . Squa re Sa int e -M a r t he
1 0 . La Sa rdine
1 1 . Le Ga lopin
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
Pink Fla m ingo
La Cha m bre a ux Oise a ux
Pop M a rke t
Grafiti by Chanoir
La Ca nt ine de Que nt in
V int a ge Fripe s e t Obje t s
L’H ôt e l du N ord
Le Cit ize n
Ble ue t Coque lic ot
Ca r m e n Ra gost a
Et hic a ndo
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
Be nsim on
Ar t a za r t
Boula nge r e t Pâ t isse rie
Fux ia
Le Pe t it e Foc a n
La Piñat a
La Ga le rie V é gé t a l
Philippe le Libra ire
Sol Se m illa
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
3
Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
32.
33.
34.
35.
Cont .
At e lie r-Ga le rie
Ja rdin V ille m in
Ant oine e t Lili
Sa ndro
3 6 . M a rc e l
3 7 . Ca na le t t o Ca ffè
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
Agnè s B.
Le s Pe t it e s
We SC
Cla udie Pie rlot
M a je
APC
Ce nt re Com m e rc ia l
Du Pa in e t de s I dé e s
Coin Ca na l
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
4
Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
Cont .
Alha m bra
Agnè s B. H om m e
Le s Che m ins Bla nc s
Re nhse n
Be l Air
I de c o
Liza Kor n
Cot é la c
Ba za r Et hic
T he Koople s
Ek yog
IKKS
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
5
Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
Note: The canal Saint-Martin area is one of the most
exciting and up-and-coming areas in town. Stroll this
area around the canal at your leisure, as it is chockful of
wonderful restaurants, artistic shops and great grafiti.
The tour should take you 3-4 hours, depending on how
long you linger. Toward the end, you’ll ind two streets
illed with designer discount shops. Come back to the
area and take a bike ride along the canal, or consider
doing the entire tour via bike.
Begin at the intersection of 1. rue du Faubourg
du Temple and the quai de Jemmapes. You will
see a beautiful statue of a grisette, a French working-class woman from the late 17th century, on the
left, and facing the canal, you will see a bust of
Frédérick Lemaître, a famous 19th-century Parisian
theatre actor. The canal, which is 4.5 kilometers
(about 3 miles) long and stretches through the 10th
Arrondissement, was commissioned in 1802 by
Napoleon and completed in 1825.
Go up the right, or east, side of the quai de Jemmapes. Walking right along the canal, you’ll see
its different levels. You can take the canal cruise
(http://www.canauxrama.com), but we ind it a bit
touristy.
At any point, you can walk over the high bridges,
from where you can enjoy beautiful views and take
a few photos. Along the canal, there are several
restaurants that we like. At the corner of rue Alibert on the left side of the canal is 2. la Marine (55,
quai de Valmy), which is a good place for lunch or
dinner by the second bridge. At the next bridge to
the north, you’ll ind 3. Chez Prune (36, rue
Beaurepaire), which is a very trendy, fun place to
go for a drink or dinner. We like the steak frites and
the bohemian atmosphere there. Also, 4. Jours
de Fête, on the right side of the canal (72, quai de
Jemmapes), is a cute tapas place.
Cont .
Continue walking along the canal on the right side
until you reach avenue Richerand. Take a right and
go into the courtyard of 5. l’Hôpital Saint-Louis,
founded in the early 17th century during the reign of
Henri IV, and which is nearly an exact replica of the
Place des Vosges. Before you reach the hospital,
you’ll pass two restaurants on avenue Richerand
that are both recommended by le Fooding. The
irst is 6. le Cambodge (10, avenue Richerand),
a Cambodian restaurant; be sure to go early or be
prepared to wait in line. The second is the wellknown wine bar 7. Philou (12, avenue Richerand).
It’s a great place to return to at night or even for
lunch if you can get a reservation.
A couple doors down from Philou on the right side,
you will see 8. Marty Tattoo (16, avenue Richerand). The studio offers gorgeous, artistic tattoos,
and if you are not ready to get a permanent one,
you can get a temporary.
At the end of avenue Richerand, turn right and
you’ll ind on your left the entrance to 5. l’Hôpital
Saint Louis, which has a brick facade. Use the
pedestrian entrance (there are two separate doors
to go through before you reach the inside of the
courtyard, and the second is called Porte 11). The
door is shut on Saturday, Sunday and holidays.
Once inside, you’ll quickly notice the resemblance
to the Place des Vosges, but it is ininitely quieter
and more peaceful here.
Walk to the other side and exit on rue Juliette Dodu,
then take a right and walk until the road ends.
Take another right and continue until you reach rue
Saint-Maur, where you’ll turn left. When you reach
rue Sainte-Marthe, turn left again. At the end of
this street, you’ll ind the darling 9. Square SainteMarthe, where there are two good restaurants:
10. la Sardine (32, rue Sainte-Marthe) and 11. le
Galopin (34, rue Sainte-Marthe). The irst is better
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
6
Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
for drinks and tapas, while the latter is wonderful
for more-upscale French food at a decent price.
Either is worth a return trip for dinner. Reserve
ahead for le Galopin.
Retrace your steps, either going back through
the hospital or around it to end up on rue Bichat.
Turn right if you are exiting the hospital. Down this
street you’ll ind the 12. Pink Flamingo (67, rue
Bichat), a fun place for pizza on the corner of rue
Bichat and rue de la Grange aux Belles.
Continue along rue Bichat, where you’ll ind 13.
la Chambre aux Oiseaux** (48, rue Bichat),
which is perfect for tea or brunch. Next door, 14.
Pop Market (50, rue Bichat) is illed with small,
fun gifts. As you walk toward the canal, on the
left you’ll discover animal grafiti by the artist 15.
Chanoir; on the right you’ll see 16. la Cantine de
Quentin (52, rue Bichat), which is a great little
wine bar that offers many items to buy or take out,
including foie gras. Follow rue Bichat until it ends
at the canal.
After passing the cat graitti on your left, turn left
and notice the interesting doors and their handles. Head back south on rue Jemmapes to ind
a charming little shop that has a green facade and
the word “Brocante” on it. The store, 17. Vintage
Fripes et Objets (104, quai de Jemmapes),
carries vintage clothing and a few small antiques.
Farther down is 18. l’Hôtel du Nord (102, quai
de Jemmapes), a chic and trendy spot for lunch
or dinner, with candlelit tables, and which is larger
than it appears from the outside. The food is not
amazing, but you can go for the basics and enjoy
the people-watching.
At the corner of the quai de Jemmapes and rue de
la Grange aux Belles is 19. le Citizen** (96, quai
de Jemmapes), a designer boutique hotel we
Cont .
highly recommend. It is an excellent, very affordable place to stay. If you are a fan of lorists, take
a left onto rue de la Grange aux Belles and you’ll
discover a particularly lovely one on the right side,
20. Bleuet Coquelicot (10, rue de la Grange aux
Belles). You’ll ind delightful items here. Walking
back toward the canal, you’ll notice 21. Carmen
Ragosta (8, rue de la Grange aux Belles), A boutique and restaurant, cleverly satiating two desires
at once! Next door is 22. Ethicando (6, rue de la
Grange aux Belles), a casual Italian concept store/
café/épicerie.
Returning to the quai de Jemmapes, cross over
the canal to reach rue de Lancry. At the corner of
the quai de Valmy, you’ll spot 23. Bensimon and
24. Artazart (both at 83, quai de Valmy). Step
inside Artazart, an art and design bookshop with a
selection of gifts. Bensimon is of course famous for
its French tennis shoes, and at this particular shop
there are also items for children.
Walk down rue de Lancry and check out the 25.
Boulanger et Pâtisserie (58, rue de Lancry) on
the corner, which looks quite charming and sits
across from 26. Fuxia (15, rue Jean Poulmarch),
an Italian chain that’s great for quick salads and
pasta. From Fuxia, if you turn around and take rue
Jean Poulmarch toward the canal, you’ll ind more
grafiti.
If you’re interested in gifts for children, walk down
rue des Vinaigriers to 27. le Petite Focan (25, rue
des Vinaigriers). In the same building is 28. la
Piñata, which offers Mexican-inspired items. Next
door is 29. la Galerie Végétal (27, rue des Vinaigriers), a stunning lorist that carries small gifts.
Farther down the street is 30. Philippe le Libraire
(32, rue des Vinaigriers), a shop that sells comic
books. A good place to stop for coffee or a healthy
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
7
Ca na l Sa int -M a r t in
Wa lk ing Tour
glass of juice is 31. Sol Semilla (23, rue de Vinaigriers); the purple power mix is recommended.
When you reach rue Lucien Sampaix, turn right,
and then left onto rue des Récollets. Look for the
32. Atelier-Galerie (13, rue des Récollets), the studio
of ceramic artist Emmanuelle Wittmann, where her
pottery is sold and courses are offered.
Continuing along, look for a grand entrance marked
“hôpital militaire Villemin” and enter the 33. Jardin Villemin. The park was created in 1977 on the grounds
of a former military hospital. When you enter the park,
walk to the right along the dirt path and you’ll notice
a beautiful green sculpture. There will also be a sign
for public restrooms. Stay to the right, heading back
toward the canal. On the right side you’ll ind a lovely, if
a bit unattended, herb garden.
Exit here, back onto the quai de Valmy. Turn right
and you’ll spot three 34. Antoine et Lili (95, quai de
Valmy) stores with very colorful facades. After stopping in, walk south along the canal past them. Next
you’ll see 35. Sandro (93, quai de Valmy). Much less
colorful and more practical than Antoine et Lili, Sandro
carries men’s and women’s clothes. Continue past the
grafiti and past rue de Lancry until you reach rue de
Marseille. Keep in mind for later two restaurants you’ll
have passed on the other side of the canal: both 36.
Marcel (90, quai de Jemmapes) and 37. Canaletto
Caffè (88, quai de Jemmapes) are good restaurants
with excellent reviews. Turn right on rue de Marseille.
On the right side you’ll quickly see 38. Agnès B. (13,
rue de Marseille) and then 39. les Petites (11, rue de
Marseille), a stock store that offers discounted items.
Next door is 40. WeSC, We Are the Superlative
Conspiracy (9, rue de Marseille), which has primarily
men’s clothes and is worth a look. The 41. Claudie
Pierlot (6, rue de Marseille) stock store offers sophisticated clothing for the fashionable set. Another great
stock-store ind is 42. Maje (4, rue de Marseille),
which carries items designed by the much-loved
Cont .
French brand. Farther down is 43. APC (5, rue de
Marseille), which, unfortunately, is not a stock store.
A very unique and well-designed store, 44. Centre
Commercial (2, rue de Marseille) has clothing for
men and women and some vintage furniture. Next
door on the corner, on rue Yves Toudic, is the boulangerie 45. du Pain et des Idées (34, rue Yves
Toudic), which was voted the best boulangerie in
Paris in 2008.
Across the street is 46. Coin Canal (1, rue de
Marseille), a good stop for 20th-century interior
designs. When you reach rue Yves Toudic, turn left
and walk down the street until you see the sign for
47. Alhambra (21, rue Yves Toudic), a theatre
where you can see plays as well as music and
comedy performances. Check to see if there is an
event you’d like to come back for.
At the corner of rue Beaurepaire, you’ll see 48.
Agnès B. Homme (1, rue Dieu). Take a left on
rue Beaurepaire and you’ll ind more shopping. For
made-in-France apparel, stop at 49. les Chemins
Blancs (20, rue Beaurepaire). Farther down is
50. Renhsen (22, rue Beaurepaire), which carries
its own popular line of jeans as well as Swildens
T-shirts and bohemian accessories. The stock store
of 51. Bel Air (22, rue Beaurepaire) offers very
feminine clothing. Across the street at 52. Ideco
(19, rue Beaurepaire), you’ll ind fun gifts including
Pantone iPhone covers, postcards and journals.
Next door is 53. Liza Korn (19, rue Beaurepaire),
which offers clothing for women and children as
well as home and baby linens.
Continuing along, you’ll ind gorgeous clothing for
men and women at 54. Cotélac (30, rue Beaurepaire). Across the street is the fair-trade store 55.
Bazar Ethic (25, rue Beaurepaire). A Parisian
chain store, 56. The Kooples (32, rue Beaure-
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
8