here - Wines of Portugal
Transcription
here - Wines of Portugal
A Letter from Joshua Greene Portugal: Rocks Estremoz is a walled town on Portugal’s frontier, a conical rise out of the Alentejo plain, thirty miles from the border with Spain. Marble is everywhere, framing the doors and windows of white houses on the hill, providing stone for the Torre de Menagem and the Igreja dos Congregados, the tower and baroque church at the top of the town. Foz Coa is a border town to the north, at the mouth of the Coa River where it meets the Douro; many of the town’s buildings are made of dry-laid schist. It’s the center of an archeological park where 25,000-year-old drawings have survived on the rock. Carved into vertical schist outcroppings in the wilds of the desert scrub, these drawings dot a landscape sparsely populated by sheep, olive trees and the occasional farmer, their surroundings not significantly different than they were at the time the art was conceived. The Douro cuts a deep canyon to the sea, a meandering gash where fault lines spilled broken rock out of a vein of schist, girded on either side by solid granite—in the rivers and hills of Vinho Verde to the north and west; in the mountains of Dão to the south and east. In Cantenhede, on Bairrada’s coast south of where the Douro meets the sea, you can stand on a plain that’s blindingly white, pure limestone in every direction. The plain and the low hills that surround it are covered in vines—as are the steep schist canyons of the Douro, the granite river valleys of the Minho and Dão, and the sides of the marble hill in Estremoz. Portugal’s wines are about rock, how clay and limestone come together to sustain the roots of old-vine baga in Bairrada, how schist crumbles and fractures to hold the cool winter rains, allowing vines to survive the Douro Valley’s dry August heat. While there is seemingly infinite diversity in the evolution of the rock— and a vast resource of vine DNA that evolved to survive within it—Portugal has geologies that are consistent enough in large areas that you can see the rock, taste the wine, and come to some useful conclusions about the way the ground and the vine interact. P ortugal is old Europe. There are towns that still look Roman. There are city neighborhoods that can take you back five centuries, to the height of the country’s imperial powers. And there’s an undercurrent of conservatism: Many growers have sustained agricultural wisdom even as others have tried out trendy vines from abroad and producers have tinkered with new technologies in their cellars. There is enough stubborn resistance to the disruptions of modernity that all of the great wines of Portugal are made in whole, or in significantly large percentages, from the country’s own distinctive vine varieties. And many of Portugal’s greatest wines are still made with the stone-age technology of lagares, shallow stone basins in which grape bunches are crushed by people marching back and forth in their bare feet. This is not a political movement to return to traditions. It is a continuation of traditions. You will find examples of innovation in Portugal that are tied to this respect for agricultural wisdom. In the Douro, the leading companies have invented mechanical lagares for more efficient production. Rather than work in tall, stainless steel tanks, they have adapted the shape and depth of the lagar, adding mechanical feet that press almost as gently as a team of treaders. They now have the option to foot-tread their top wines in stone, or to mechanically tread, adapting technology to their grapes and their soil, rather than the other way around. I t’s the respect and honor many of the most talented wine people in the country show to their inheritance that draws me back to Portugal again and again. There’s a large community of winemakers and growers dedicated to the wisdom inherent in their soil, their vines and the people who came before them, a community that innovates for the sake of their agricultural inheritance, rather than at the expense of it. That community has come together in the form of the Douro Boys, who make and market table wines in a region still dominated by Porto; in the Baga Friends, who share their infatuation with traditional Bairrada; and in other, less formal alliances that help to share knowledge and create some of the world’s most exciting wines. This is the secret of Portugal. The best things are in plain sight, but nobody announces them. If you don’t make an effort to know the best of Portugal, nobody will tell you. Several years ago, a friend suggested I check out what was, at the time, the most popular club in Lisbon. He gave me the address and I wandered several narrow streets in search of it. When I did find the place, there was street no street number and no sign on the door. On the other hand, the crowd was immediately welcoming and there was no bouncer outside blocking the way in. A note on the selection process: Marta Galamba, an enologist working for ViniPortugal, organized three sessions of tastings for me; one in Lisbon, two in Porto. I provided a list of wines to include, if the producer had stock and wished to participate. She also solicited wine from producers throughout Portugal, limiting the number of submissions from each producer so the focus could be on what they considered their great wines. Galamba and her team presented the wines to me in numbered glasses, in flights by region, variety and vintage. After I culled 100 or so of most intriguing wines, Galamba requested new samples and I retasted those, again in flights based on region, variety and vintage. My goal was to assemble 50 wines representing the major regions of Portugal, so I left out wines from some regions with wide representation in the final list, in order to include wines from other regions. I did not include any wines that I would not consider great, but diversity is part of the greatness of Portugal and it is, I believe, an important part of the final list. Many of the greatest wines of any country are either very limited in production, or quickly sold out, or both. Some of the wines you may taste here are rare; others are in wide distribution. But some wines are not included due to supply issues. This list represents a snapshot of 50 Great Wines; there are other great wines of Portugal waiting for you to discover them. 50 GREAT PORTUGUESE WINES Selected by Joshua Greene The index below is sorted alphabetically. In the following pages, the wine notes are sorted by tasting order as suggested by Joshua Greene. 2009 Adriano Ramos Pinto Collection, Douro 2009 Aliança Quinta da Dôna Red, Bairrada 2012 Anselmo Mendes Vinhos Contacto, Vinho Verde 2012 Casa de Mouraz Encruzado, Dão 2010 Casa de Mouraz Elfa, Dão 2011 Casca Wines Monte Cascas Malvasia de Colares Branco, Colares 2009 Duorum Vinhos Reserva Vinhas Velhas, Douro 2012 Enoport United Wines Quinta do Boição Reserva White, Bucelas 2008 Folias de Baco Olho no Pé Grande Reserva Red, Douro 2011 Fonseca Vintage Porto, Douro 2009 FTP Vinhos Quinta do Serrado Reserva Red, Dão 2008 Herdade de Vale Barqueiros Reserva Red, Alentejo 2010 Herdade do Esporão Reserva Red, Alentejo 2012 Herdade do Esporão Verdelho, Alentejo 2010 IdealDrinks Eminência, Vinho Verde 2011 João Brito e Cunha Quinta de S. José Touriga Nacional, Douro 2010 Jorge Nobre Moreira Poeira, Douro 2012 Jose Maria da Fonseca Vinhos Domingo Soares Franco Colecção Privada Moscatel Roxo Rosé, Península de Setúbal 2009 Luís Pato Vinha Pan, Bairrada 2010 Lusovini Pedra Cancela Seleção do Énologo, Dão 1996 Madeira Wine Company Blandy’s Colheita Bual, Madeira 2010 Monte da Ravasqueira Vinha das Romãs, Alentejo 2011 Muxagat Vinhos Red, Douro 2010 Niepoort Vinhos Batuta, Douro 2011 Niepoort Vinhos Vintage, Douro 2009 Quinta da Alorna Portal da Águia Red DOC, Tejo 2012 Quinta da Lixa Aromas das Castas Alvarinho Trajadura, Vinho Verde 2010 Quinta da Plansel Marquês de Montemor Colheita Seleccionada Touriga Franca, Alentejo 2007 Quinta da Ponte Pedrinha Vinhas Velhas, Dão 2008 Quinta da Sequeira Reserva Red, Douro 2009 Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafeira Red, Bairrada 2004 Quinta das Bágeiras Garrafeira White, Bairrada 2011 Quinta de Chocapalha Arinto, Lisboa 2008 Quinta de Chocapalha Red, Lisboa 2012 Quinta de Gomariz Avesso, Vinho Verde 2011 Quinta de Paços Casa do Capitão-mor, Vinho Verde 2008 Quinta do Noval Red Wine, Douro 2011 Quinta do Pinto Estate Collection Red, Alenquer 2008 Quinta do Portal Reserva, Douro 2007 Quinta do Sagrado Mutante, Douro 2010 Quinta Seara d’Ordens TalentVs Grande Escolha, Douro 2011 Rui Reguinga Enologia Terrenus, Alentejo 2012 Secret Spot Wines Vale da Poupa Moscatel Galego White, Douro 2012 Soalheiro Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2012 Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas, Vinho Verde NV Sogevinus Fine Wines Burmester Tordiz 40 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro 2012 Solar das Bouças Loureiro, Vinho Verde 1969 Symington Family Estates Graham’s Single Harvest Tawny Port, Douro 2010 Vidigal Wines Brutalis, Lisboa 2010 Wine & Soul Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas, Douro 01 Producer: SOLAR DAS BOUÇAS Wine Name: LOUREIRO Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): LOUREIRO Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 80,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: ÁLVARO VAN ZELLER “This Loureiro grows on a hillside north of the Cavado River, in the center of the Vinho Verde region. It’s made by Alvaro van Zeller, who began his winemaking career at Quinta do Noval in Douro, a property his family owned until 1993. His young white has the clarity of a Vinho Verde without any overt sweetness; instead, it delivers a blast of coastal briskness, its pear-like fruit reflecting the granite soils in which it grows as a crystal refracts light. The flavors are harmonious and lasting, with lime-zest freshness.” – Joshua Greene Address: Rua do Crasto 1415, 4720 – 614 Prozelo Amares, Portugal Contact: Fernando van Zeller Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 253 909 010 Website: US Importer: Regal Wine Imports, Inc Contact: US Address: 2 Commerce Drive, Suite 3, Moorestown, NJ 08057 Email: Phone: notes: 856.985.6388 02 Producer: QUINTA DE GOMARIZ Wine Name: AVESSO Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): AVESSO Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 10,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: ANTÓNIO SOUSA “Avesso thrives in the mountainous, inland reaches of Vinho Verde, producing a more substantial white than many of its coastal counterparts. This one grows in Ave, in the center of the region, at a 40-acre estate close to the sea. It’s a different take on Avesso, presenting an herbal white with the scent of meadow flowers and the bitterness of cauliflower. The fruit has a toasty character, bringing grilled peach to mind. It’s a salty wine with frisky acidity and touches of CO2 to clean up the finish.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua de Sergidos, 10 – 4780-620 Sequeirô Santo Tirso, Portugal Contact: Tiago Lopes Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 919 172 030 Website: www.quintadegomariz.com US Importer: PR Grisley Contact: Michael Grisley US Address: 1485 South 300 West Salt Lake City, Utah 84115 Email: [email protected] Phone: 801.706.2737 03 Producer: QUINTA DA LIXA Wine Name: AROMAS DAS CASTAS ALVARINHO TRAJADURA Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): ALVARINHO (50%), TRAJADURA (50%) Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 30,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: CARLOS TEIXEIRA “This melds Trajadura’s scents of talc with the supple juiciness of Alvarinho, combining in a gentle, peachy white with fresh, coastal minerality. This 25-acre estate is located on a north-facing granite hillside. The harvest team works to get the grapes pressed quickly, and then ferments the wine at a low temperature to sustain its freshness.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Monte 4615-658 Lixa, Portugal Contact: Carlos Teixeira Email: [email protected] /[email protected] Phone: +351 255 490 590 Website: www.quintadalixa.pt US Importer: Wine in Motion Contact: Pedro Veloso US Address: 2421 Lorio Court Suite A Union, NJ 07083-8137 Email: [email protected] Phone: 908.688.3837 04 Producer: QUINTA DE PAÇOS Wine Name: CASA DO CAPITÃO-MOR Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): ALVARINHO Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 6,600 BOTTLES Winemaker: RUI CUNHA “Deeded in the 14th century to a knight of King Afonso III, this estate in Mazedo takes its name from the high commander (Capitão-mor) of Monção, who took it over in 1640. The granitic soils are covered in smooth rocks deposited by a long vanished river that once fed into the Minho, a half-mile away. Rui Cunha makes this wine in stainless steel, where it rests for six months on the lees, developing the broad, toasty depths of flavor that contrast the wine’s tart flavors of lemon, woodland cherries, fresh almond and peach. It feels walled off behind a block of granite; then the flavors explode through the rock, brisk, clean and oceanic.” – Joshua Greene Address: R. José de Carvalho, 68, Portugal Contact: José da Silva Ramos Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 968 018 145 Website: www.quintapacos.com US Importer: Currently seeking US importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 05 Producer: SOALHEIRO Wine Name: ALVARINHO Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): ALVARINHO Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 100,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: LUIS CERDEIRA “Luis Cerdeiro makes this wine from his family’s vineyard as well as those of his neighbors in the hills and granite soils of Melgaço. Handharvested into small bins, the grapes arrive quickly at the winery and are immediately pressed. Then the chilled must rests for two days, allowing the heavier solids to settle out of the wine before fermentation begins without added yeast (he uses a parallel process for the Primeiras Vinhas). The 2012 is his 30th vintage, and may be one of the best yet, its dark-toned, umami earthiness contrasting vibrant notes of litchi, bitter melon, peaches and cream. The gentleness to this wine defines Alvarinho on the Portuguese side of the Minho, a formidable structure with delicate freshness that lasts.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Alvaredo-Melgaço 4960 010 Melgaço, Portugal Contact: Luis Cerdeira Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 251 416 769 Website: www.soalheiro.com US Importer: Wine in Motion Contact: Pedro Veloso US Address: 2421 Lorio Court Suite A Union, NJ 07083-8137 Email: [email protected] Phone: 908.688.3837 06 Producer: SOALHEIRO Wine Name: PRIMEIRAS VINHAS Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): ALVARINHO Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 12,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: LUIS CERDEIRA “Selected from the oldest vines on the Cerdeiro’s family estate in Melgaço, planted in 1982 and farmed organically, this is the grand cru of Alvarinhos. The wine’s fruit complexity comes across in a sour cherry scent and pink grapefruit pith flavors, turning toward paler notes of Brazil nuts and pear skin in the finish. It captures the granitic soils of Melgaço in its acidity, potently wrapped within the wine’s beautiful freshness. Luis Cerdeiro makes most of this wine in stainless steel, with 15 percent fermented in older oak barrels; it rests on its fine lees until bottling the May after harvest. This will age with grace and harmony for ten years or more. Cerdeiro’s top vintages, including the 1994, are still gaining momentum in the bottle.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Alvaredo-Melgaço 4960 010 Melgaço, Portugal Contact: Luis Cerdeira Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 251 416 769 Website: www.soalheiro.com US Importer: Wine in Motion Contact: Pedro Veloso US Address: 2421 Lorio Court, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083-8137 Email: [email protected] Phone: 908.688.3837 07 Producer: ANSELMO MENDES VINHOS Wine Name: CONTACTO Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): ALVARINHO Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 60,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: ANSELMO MENDES “Anselmo Mendes gives this wine 12 hours of skin contact at 12 ˚C before allowing a spontaneous fermentation to begin. The wine remains on the lees for four to five months, stirred once a week. The process gives this Alvarinho a fascinating earthiness, focused on lotus root and litchi. It feels cool and juicy, with a zesty spice. Mouthwatering layers of flavor develop, from chamomile to beeswax and honey. This grows at four sites in alluvial soils derived from granite, with a lot of rock in the vineyards.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Zona Industrial de Penso, Lote 2 4960-310 Melgaço, Portugal Contact: Anselmo Mendes Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 227 128 541 / +351 919 440 714 Website: www.anselmomendes.pt US Importer: Wine in Motion Contact: Pedro Veloso US Address: 2421 Lorio Court, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083-8137 Email: [email protected] Phone: 908.688.3837 08 Producer: IDEALDRINKS Wine Name: EMINÊNCIA Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): LOUREIRO Region: VINHO VERDE Production: 20,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: CARLOS LUCAS “A portion of this wine ferments and ages on the lees for six months in stainless steel, while another portion undergoes a parallel process in older French oak barriques. Malolactic is blocked in both lots. Blended together and bottled, the wine ages another year before release, developing a richness and intensity that’s unusual for Loureiro. This takes on the nobility and power of a classic, terroirdriven white, tasting as much of the earth as it does of juicy pear-like fruit. Scents of chamomile, beeswax and dried peach last with the wine’s mineral austerity.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua Principal 3780-179 São Lourenço do Bairro, Portugal Contact: Filipe Pereira Email: [email protected] / [email protected] Phone: +351 231 528 312 / +351 917 295 354 Website: www.idealdrinks.com US Importer: Strategic Importers Contact: Alejandro Ferrari US Address: 6453 West Rogers Circle, Suite 1, Boca Raton, Fl 33487 Email: [email protected] Phone: 561.305.3456 09 Producer: CASA DE MOURAZ Wine Name: ENCRUZADO Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): ENCRUZADO Region: DÃO Production: 3,666 BOTTLES Winemaker: VINES AND WINES AND ANTÓNIO LOPES RIBEIRO “António Lopes Ribeiro farms this vineyard under organic and biodynamic principles, and then ferments the must without added yeast in stainless steel vats. Gentle lees stirring for three weeks seems to enhance the wine’s minerality, while not diminishing the clarity of its fruit expression—a cool sensation of lemon peel and orange oil. The texture plays off Encruzado’s unctuous richness while still feeling as clean as spring water. The flavors last, with the granitic spice of the grapes.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: R. do Outeiro, 111, Mouraz, Portugal Contact: Sara Dionísio Email: [email protected] Phone: + 351 232 822 872 / + 351 933 657 040 Website: www.casademouraz.blogspot.com US Importer: Savio Soares Selections Contact: Danielle Rosenberg US Address: 10 Jay Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Email: [email protected] Phone: 718.797.4114 10 Producer: QUINTA DAS BÁGEIRAS Wine Name: GARRAFEIRA WHITE Vintage: 2004 Varietal(s): MARIA GOMES, BICAL Region: BAIRRADA Production: 3,200 BOTTLES Winemaker: RUI ALVES “The coastal region of Bairrada is best known for long-lived reds from the Baga grape, but the whites can share that longevity, especially when grown on centenary vines. Mario Sergio Alves Nuno tends two small parcels of ancient bush vines, mostly a mix of Maria Gomes and Bical growing in the clay–limestone soils of Bairrada. He uses a vertical press to gentle drain the juice from the bunches, and lets it settle for a day. The juice then ferments without added yeast in 100-year-old Portuguese oak vats (2,500 liters each), where the wine remains in contact with its fine lees for five months, eventually bottled without fining or filtration. This is a tannic white, robust and seemingly sherried when first poured. Decant it to bring oxygen into the wine and you’ll find fresher citrus notes, as well as deep tones of roasted almonds and cream. The texture feels as smooth as suede, weaving all the meatiness and earthiness into the saturated flavors. Rich enough for roast pork, this is probably best with grilled langoustines or other meaty shellfish.” -Joshua Greene notes: Address: Fogueira 3780-523 Sangalhos, Portugal Contact: Mário Sérgio Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 234 742 102 Website: www.quintadasbageiras.pt US Importer: Aidil Wines/ Wine Wise Contact: Pedro Carvalho/ Hiram Simon US Address: 574 Ferry Street, Newark, NJ 5655 College Avenue Oakland, CA Email: [email protected] [email protected] Phone: 973.712.0950 510.848.6879 11 Producer: QUINTA DE CHOCAPALHA Wine Name: ARINTO Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): ARINTO Region: LISBOA Production: Winemaker: SANDRA TAVARES DA SILVA “Arinto thrives in the coastal hills of Alenquer, where the Tavares da Silva family farms a north-facing hillside of calcareous clay soils. The vines, now 25 years old, benefit from the winds off the coast, sustaining freshness in the grapes. Sandra Tavares ferments this wine in stainless steel, and then ages it on the lees for six months. The wine’s breezy feel meanders past delicate nutty scents toward peach pit and pale kumquat flavors, with a cool buzz of acidity to leave the mouth feeling refreshed.” -Joshua Greene notes: Address: 2580-081 Aldeia Galega Da Merceana, Portugal Contact: Alice or Andrea Tavares da Silva Email: [email protected]/ [email protected] Phone: +351 263 769 317 Website: www.chocapalha.com US Importer: Solstars Ltd. Contact: Haim Hassin or Anne Rodeman US Address: 575, Madison Avenue Suite 1006 New York, NY 10022 Email: [email protected]/ [email protected] Phone: 212.605.0430 12 Producer: ENOPORT UNITED WINES Wine Name: QUINTA DO BOIÇÃO RESERVA WHITE Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): ARINTO Region: BUCELAS Production: 15,600 BOTTLES Winemaker: JOÃO VICÊNCIO “Bucelas was once known as a super-long-lived white, and this one shows the age-worthy character of Arinto grown well. Grown on 25-year-old vines planted on clay soils, this starts a slow fermentation in stainless steel, finishing in new French oak barriques with 15 days of lees stirring. It’s tightly structured, saturated with smoky, meaty fruit flavors that coalesced during its time in French oak. It finishes clean, lasting on pale peach and almond flavor.” -Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua Mariano de Carvalho, Apartado 2040-998 Rio Maior, Portugal Contact: Maria José Viana Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 243 999 070 Website: www.enoport.pt US Importer: Prestige Wine Group Contact: Kevin Campbell US Address: 1999 Shepard Road St. Paul, MN 55116 Email: [email protected] Phone: 651.649.5800 13 Producer: CASCA WINES Wine Name: MONTE CASCAS MALVASIA DE COLARES BRANCO Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): MALVASIA DE COLARES Region: COLARES Production: 450 BOTTLES Winemaker: HELDER CUNHA AND FREDERICO GOMES “Federico Carnall Vilar Gomes and Helder Cunha are partners in Casca, making wines from throughout Portugal. Gomes has family ties to Colares, and he is personally committed to sustaining what is left of the Ramisco and Malvasia on this sandy spit of land, the westernmost vineyard land on the European continent. He works with three adjacent vineyards- their 80-year-old vines growing horizontally along the white sandy soil and their roots digging deep into limestone. The wine ferments in two old French oak barrels, then ages in old oak for 18 months before bottling by hand. After aging in bottle, it turns out spicy and cool, expressing its minerality in saline notes and sandy acidity. The fruit comes across in scents of fennel, beeswax and the floral spice of linalool. A rarity and a Portuguese original.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua Romano Esteves nº 276, 2750-576 Cascais, Portugal Contact: Helder Cunha Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 933 256 124 Website: www.cascawines.com US Importer: Matador Vino Contact: Michael Hutchinson US Address: 6501 Crown Blvd # 106 A5 San Jose, CA 95120 Email: [email protected] Phone: 650.906.4332 14 Producer: RUI REGUINGA ENOLOGIA Wine Name: TERRENUS Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): ARINTO, FERNÃO PIRES, BICAL, ROUPEIRO AND OTHER VARIETALS Region: ALENTEJO Production: 5,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: RUI REGUINGA “A field blend of at least eight Portuguese white varieties including Arinto, Fernão Pires and Roupeiro, these bush vines grow at five different sites near the Serra de São Mamede outside Portalegre, their ages ranging from 80 to 100 years old. The soils are granite and schist. The wine rests with its lees for six months, sixty percent of the blend in stainless steel, the rest in a mix of new and older French barriques. The result is a rich, robust, gastronomic white, its dense texture and floral spice targeted to braised pork shoulder.” – Joshua Greene Address: Zona Industrial, Lote 81, 2080 Almeirim, Portugal Contact: Rui Reguinga Email: [email protected] Phone: + 351 917 599 368 Website: www.ruireguinga.com US Importer: Currently Seeking US Importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 15 Producer: HERDADE DO ESPORÃO Wine Name: VERDELHO Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): VERDELHO Region: ALENTEJO Production: 5,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: DAVID BAVERSTOCK AND SANDRA ALVES “Verdelho, a variety from Madeira, is new to the vineyards at Esporão (planted in 2001). Growing in an area of the estate where the soil transitions from schist to granite, it has settled in quickly, sustaining its acidity in the region’s heat. It’s a wine based on shapely curves and mineral edges, the fat of the grape cut by the wine’s persistent acidity, woven into the finish so the wine feels warm and spicy without feeling hot.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: 80 River Street Suite 306 Hoboken, NJ 07087 Contact: Pedro Vieira Email: [email protected] Phone: 201.420.4460 Website: www.esporao.com US Importer: Aidil Wines Contact: Pedro Carvalho US Address: 574 Ferry Street, Newark, NJ 07105 Email: [email protected] Phone: 973 .712.0950 16 Producer: SECRET SPOT WINES Wine Name: VALE DA POUPA MOSCATEL GALEGO WHITE Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): MOSCATEL GALEGO BRANCO Region: DOURO Production: 15,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: RUI CUNHA AND HUGO LINTON “Secret Spot is a partnership between Gonçalo Sousa Lopes (a viticultural consultant in the Douro Valley) and Rui Cunha (a consulting enologist working in the Douro Valley and Vinho Verde). They make this lively, fresh Muscatel Gallego from fruit grown in Favaios, at 1,950 feet. It ferments in stainless steel without added yeast and ages for five months on the fine lees, enhancing the wine’s bright spice and balancing its sweetness.” – Joshua Greene Address: 5070-270 Favaios, Portugal Contact: Rui Cunha Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 937 346 584 Website: www.secretspotwines.com US Importer: Europvin Contact: Paul Sharp US Address: 16311 Stagg St. Suite 200 Van Nuys, CA Email: [email protected] Phone: notes: 17 Producer: JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA VINHOS Wine Name: DOMINGOS SOARES FRANCO COLECÇÃO PRIVADA MOSCATEL ROXO ROSÉ Vintage: 2012 Varietal(s): MOSCATEL ROXO Region: PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL Production: 8,500 BOTTLES Winemaker: DOMINGOS SOARES FRANCO “Domingos Soares Franco, winemaker at J.M. da Fonseca, has access to half of the Moscatel Roxo in Portugal, 20 out of the 40 hectares planted. His father worked to save the variety from extinction, and used it to produce a rare, delicious fortified wine (the 1964 is one of the most memorable Portuguese dessert wines I’ve tasted, on par with the greatest older Tawnies from the Douro; the family is currently selling an older vintage, the 1960). Soares Franco believes this is a natural mutation from Muscat of Alexandria and, in addition to using it for fortified wines, he has been tinkering with a “macho rosé.” This is the color of a saignée Champagne, the flavors intriguingly spicy and floral, with a touch of grape skin tannin balanced by an equally subtle sweetness. It delivers potent flavors in a wine that’s easy to drink, especially in the company of a country pâté or cured linguiça sausages.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua José Augusto Coelho 11/13, 2925-511 Azeitão, Portugal Contact: António Maria Soares Franco Email: [email protected] Phone: + 351 212 197 500 Website: www.jmf.pt US Importer: NLC Wines Contact: Naâma Laufer US Address: 649 Morgan Avenue, Suite 4E8, Brooklyn, NY 11222 Email: [email protected] Phone: 917.297.7407 18 Producer: QUINTA DA ALORNA Wine Name: PORTAL DA ÁGUIA RED DOC Vintage: 2009 Varietal(s): TINTA RORIZ, CASTELÃO, SYRAH, ALICANTE BOUSCHET Region: TEJO Production: 230,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: MARTTA REIS SIMÕES “Built in 1725 by Pedro de Almeida Portugal, the Marquis of Alorna, this grand quinta has been in the Caroça family since 1918. Located near Santarém, close to the Tagus River, the 6,900-acre property includes 540 acres of vines as well as cork forests and other crops. This wine is a blend of four varieties that thrive in Tejo (Tinta Roriz, Castelão, Syrah and Alicante Bouchet), the percentages varying with the vintage. The 2009 is dominated by the purple-fruit character of Syrah and Alicante, emphasizing its oak when first poured. It begins to show its elegance with air, developing scents of cracked green peppercorn and a full-on juicy texture. Tightly built, this will age well over the next several years.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: 2080-187 Almeirim, Portugal Contact: Telma Moura or Dora Martins Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 243 570 700 Website: www.alorna.pt US Importer: Regal Wines Contact: Patrick Bautista US Address: 2 Commerce Drive Suite #3, Moorestown, NJ 08057 Email: [email protected] Phone: 800.467.5889 19 Producer: QUINTA DE CHOCAPALHA Wine Name: RED Vintage: 2008 Varietal(s): TINTA RORIZ (33%), SYRAH (22%), TOURIGA NACIONAL (22%), TOURIGA FRANCA (11%), CASTELÃO (10%), ALICANTE BOUSCHET(2%) Region: LISBOA Production: Winemaker: SANDRA TAVARES DA SILVA “Alice and Paulo Tavares da Silva bought this estate in the 1980s and have planted 111 acres of vines. This year, they built a new winery into the hillside where their daughter, Sandra, makes the Chocapalha wines. (Sandra Tavares also makes the Quinta da Manoella and Pintas wines with her husband, Jorge Serodio Borges, in the Douro). This blend, including Tinta Roriz, Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Franca, ages in older French oak and has a traditional feel to it, with delicate floral notes of violets and heather alongside a spicy crushed peppercorn scent that lasts. A touch of earthiness adds to the wine’s smoky richness and complexity.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: 2580-081 Aldeia Galega Da Merceana, Lisboa, Portugal Contact: Alice or Andrea Tavares da Silva Email: [email protected] or [email protected] Phone: +351 263 769 317 Website: www.chocapalha.com US Importer: Solstars, Ltd. Contact: Haim Hassin or Anne Rodeman US Address: 575, Madison Avenue, Suite 1006, New York, NY 10022 Email: hhassin@solstars,com or [email protected] Phone: 212.605.0430 20 Producer: QUINTA DO PINTO Wine Name: ESTATE COLLECTION RED Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL (25%), ARAGONEZ (20% ), CASTELÃO (10%), ALFROCHEIRO (10%), TINTA MIÚDA (10%), SYRAH (25%) Region: LISBOA Production: 150,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: TIAGO BELLEGARDE MACHADO “From an estate that has produced wines since the 17th century, this grows at a 130-acre vineyard just south of Alenquer. The soils are comprised of clay and limestone on a south-facing slope planted to Aragones, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Miúda, Alfrocheiro, and Syrah. It’s fermented in concrete tanks without added yeast, and then aged for nine months in older French oak barrels. The spicy aroma of the grapes becomes more layered and compelling with air, adding elegance to the purple fruit and lending the wine power without weight.” – Joshua Greene Address: Aldeia Galega da Merceana, 2580 Alenquer, Portugal Contact: Ana Cardoso Pinto Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 925 418 650 Website: www.quintadopinto.pt US Importer: Currently seeking US importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 21 Producer: VIDIGAL WINES Wine Name: BRUTALIS Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): ALICANTE BOUSCHET (85%), CABERNET SAUVIGNON (15%) Region: LISBOA Production: 30,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: ANTÓNIO VENTURA, RAFAEL NEUPARTH AND ARNALDO SIMÕES “Vidigal is a Norwegian–Portuguese joint venture with a winemaking team that includes António Ventura, Rafael Neuparth and Arnoldo Simões. They blend this wine from Alicante Bouchet and Cabernet Sauvignon grown on a north-facing hillside of clay-limestone soils. It presents the bold, floral black fruit flavors of Alicante Bouchet under the richness of French oak (the wine aged 17 months in barrels, 40 percent of them new). With some air, the cabernet emerges in hints of leather while Alicante’s fruit supersedes the oak, turning sleek and spicy.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Estrada da Ribeira, 230, Cortes, 2410-502 Leiria, Portugal Contact: Ricardo Daniel Marques Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 244 819 480 Website: www.vidigalwines.com US Importer: Portugal Wines Contact: Sar Perlman US Address: 2951 MacDonald Street Oceanside, CA 92054 Email: [email protected] Phone: 530.219.4334 22 Producer: QUINTA DA PLANSEL Wine Name: MARQUÊS DE MONTEMOR, COLHEITA SELECCIONADA TOURIGA FRANCA Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): TOURIGA FRANCA Region: ALENTEJO Production: 4,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: DORINA LINDEMANN “Winemaker Dorina Lindemann ferments this in stainless steel with a three-day cold soak beforehand and three days of maceration afterward. She ages the wine for 15 months in French oak, 20 percent new, turning out Touriga Franca that tastes like a peppery claret, with little of the overt warmth of the Alentejo. It’s ripe and velvety, lasting with fragrance rather than heat. The Mediterranean grasslands that produce this franca also produce delicious pork, including the traditionally long-braised trotters with which this would be delicious.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Apartado 2, 7051-909 Montemor-o-Novo, Portugal Contact: Dorina Lindemann orMarisa Parreira Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 266 898 920 Website: www.plansel.com US Importer: Savio Soares Selections Contact: Savio Soares US Address: 10 Jay Street No. 722 – Brooklyn, NY 11201 Email: [email protected] Phone: 718.797.4114 23 Producer: MONTE DA RAVASQUEIRA Wine Name: VINHA DAS ROMÃS Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): SYRAH, TOURIGA NACIONAL, ALICANTE BOUSCHET, TOURIGA FRANCA Region: ALENTEJO Production: 30,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: PEDRO PEREIRA GONÇALVES “Silky smooth, this has the warm, almost peachy ripeness that the Alentejo brings to its red grapes. The flavors are bright, with jasmine and rose highlights on its supple black fruit. A blend of syrah, touriga nacional, touriga franca and alicante bouchet, this was grown in clay–limestone soils over granite. It should develop well over the next several years.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Santana do Campo, Arraiolos 7040-121, Portugal Contact: Joaquim Guimarães Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 964 250 678 Website: www.ravasqueira.com US Importer: Winresources USA Contact: Arlindo Correia US Address: 688 Columbia Road, Suite 2, Boston, MA 02125 Email: [email protected] Phone: 617.869.1863 24 Producer: HERDADE DO ESPORÃO Wine Name: RESERVA RED Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): ARAGONÊS, TRINCADEIRA, ALICANTE BOUSCHET, CABERNET SAUVIGNON Region: ALENTEJO Production: 50,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: DAVID BAVERSTOCK AND LUIS PATRAO “This is a dark and supple blend of Trincadeira, Aragonês, Alicante Bouchet and Cabernet Sauvignon, from a vast vineyard project in Reguengos de Monsaraz. It grows in a part of the vineyard where the soils are clay loam with schist over basalt, the vines monitored for soil moisture in the arid heat of the region. Winemakers Luis Patrao and David Baverstock produce it in a number of small-scale fermentations to control the extraction, and then age it in French and American oak, 30 percent new. The wine delivers immediate richness, taking time to show its subtle tannic detail. There’s a touch of volatility to point up the complex scents of leather, earth and black peppercorn, then the finish holds firm and stony.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: 80 River Street Suite 306 Hoboken, NJ 07087 Contact: Pedro Vieira Email: [email protected] Phone: 201.420.4460 Website: www.esporao.com US Importer: Aidil Wines Contact: Pedro Carvalho US Address: 574 Ferry Street, Newark, NJ 07105 Email: [email protected] Phone: 973.712.0950 25 Producer: HERDADE DE VALE BARQUEIROS Wine Name: RESERVA RED Vintage: 2008 Varietal(s): ALICANTE BOUSCHET, TRINCADEIRA Region: ALENTEJO Production: 14,400 BOTTLES Winemaker: PAULO LAUREANO “A family-owned estate with 300 acres of vines near Alter do Chao, west of Portalegre in the northern Alentejo, Vale Barqueiros includes cork forests and 800 acres of olive trees. Paulo Laureano blends this from Alicante Bouchet and Trincadeira grown in granitic soils, and ages it for 12 months in French oak (50 percent new). It carries the heat and sun of the Alentejo in spicy scents of cracked green peppercorns and crushed thyme. The wine’s supple red raspberry flavor gets an electric jolt from some volatile acidity, giving it a classical Alentejana profile.” – Joshua Greene Address: Travessa da Prelada, 613 4250 – 380 Porto, Portugal Contact: Miguel Trancoso Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 228 341 000 Website: www.valebarqueiros.pt US Importer: Currently seeking US Importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 26 Producer: LUSOVINI Wine Name: PEDRA CANCELA SELEÇÃO DO ENÓLOGO Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL, ALFROCHEIRO, TINTA RORIZ Region: DÃO Production: 200,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: JOÃO PAULO GOUVEIA “Nuno Cancela de Abreu grew up in a winemaking family in Dão, and started his own project there in 1991. He has since expanded to other regions, including Lisboa, where he consulted on the viticulture and winemaking at Quinta da Alorna, another winery among the 50 Great. This wine is his personal selection from his vineyard in Dão, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro And Tinta Roriz, aged for eight months in new French oak barriques. It has soft flavors of red plum and the cool, earthy feel of a cave—a brisk, granitic Dão presented fresh and light.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Av. Da Liberdade, nº 15, 3520-061 Nelas, Portugal Contact: Sónia Martins Email: [email protected] Phone: 232942153 Website: www.lusovini.com US Importer: Wine in Motion Contact: Pedro Veloso US Address: 2421 Lorio Court, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083-8137 Email: [email protected] Phone: 908.688.3837 27 Producer: CASA DE MOURAZ Wine Name: ELFA Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): FIELD BLEND OF 30 DIFFERENT GRAPE VARIETALS Region: DÃO Production: 6,666 BOTTLES Winemaker: VINES & WINES AND ANTÓNIO LOPES RIBEIRO “António Lopes Ribeiro converted this mixed planting to organic viticulture in 1990; while the 80-year-old vineyard is now certified organic, he has been farming it with biodynamic practices since 2006. He ferments the wine without added yeast in stainless steel, where it rests until bottling. It’s a simple vinification that allows the explosive complexity of the 30 varieties in the vineyard to blast out of the glass, vibrant in its flavor detail, monumental in its granitic power. A modern classic from the terroir of Dão.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: R. do Outeiro, 111, Mouraz, Portugal Contact: Sara Dionísio Email: [email protected] Phone: + 351 232 822 872 / + 351 933 657 040 Website: www.casademouraz.blogspot.com US Importer: Savio Soares Selections Contact: Danielle Rosenberg US Address: 10 Jay Street Brooklyn NY 11201 Email: [email protected] Phone: 718.797.4114 28 Producer: FTP VINHOS Wine Name: QUINTA DO SERRADO RESERVA RED Vintage: 2009 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL, ALFROCHEIRO, JAEN Region: DÃO Production: Winemaker: ANTÓNIO MACHADO “Starting out with delicate floral intensity, this wine’s austere tannins meet broad, rich blue fruit. It’s a full-bodied Dão, opening into a racy finish. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Jaen, this grows at a vineyard in Penalva do Castelo, redeveloped by Carvalho, Ribeira & Ferreira in the 1980s, now in the hands of FTP Wines, part of Tavfer, a Portuguese group that started investing in wine properties in 1990.” – Joshua Greene Address: 3550-163 Penalva do Castelo, Portugal Contact: Gabriel Pereira Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 232 642 428 Website: www.ftpvinhos.com US Importer: Currently seeking US importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 29 Producer: QUINTA DA PONTE PEDRINHA Wine Name: VINHAS VELHAS Vintage: 2007 Varietal(s): BLEND OF DIFFERENT GRAPES VARIETALS Region: DÃO Production: 8,300 BOTTLES Winemaker: PATRÍCIA CARVALHO, CATARINA SIMÕES AND LAFAYETTE AGRA “From an old mixed planting in the Serra de Estrela region of Dão, about 30 percent of this wine is Alfrocheiro, Baga and Jaen, while the rest is made up of a wide range of varieties, all grown on weathered granite. Inoculated with local yeast, fermented and aged in stainless steel, the wine is a silken, old-fashioned Dão. It takes a classical approach to the region, presenting gamey notes and a little healthy sweatiness that could read as salinity or minerality. Austere and meaty, with a crisp line of wild berry flavor in the middle, it finishes clean.” – Joshua Greene Address: 6290-094 Lagarinhos Gouveia, Portugal Contact: Patrícia Carvalho Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 238 485 000 / +351 939 896 000 Website: www.quintadapontepedrinha.com US Importer: Currently seeking US importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 30 Producer: ALIANÇA Wine Name: QUINTA DA DÔNA RED Vintage: 2009 Varietal(s): BAGA Region: BAIRRADA Production: 22,687 BOTTLES Winemaker: FRANCISCO ANTUNES “Aliança, one of Portugal’s largest wine exporters, started as a shipping company in Bairrada in the 1920s. The firm purchased this quinta in 2002, a north-facing hillside on Bairrada’s clay-limestone soil where baga reached a fine maturity in 2009. The fruit was cold-soaked for five days, then fermented in stainless steel and aged for a year in new French and Russian oak barrels. The quality of the fruit shows in a brisk note of black raspberries, the flavor focused and vibrant. The tannins are soft enough to make this robust wine feel elegant and gracious on release and balanced to gain complexity as it ages.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua do Comércio nº 444, 3780-124 Sangalhos, Portugal Contact: Mario Neves Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 234 732000 Website: www.alianca.pt US Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Inc. Contact: Joao Oliveira US Address: One Park Avenue, MT Vernon, NY 10550 Email: [email protected] Phone: 914.664.3155 31 Producer: LUÍS PATO Wine Name: VINHA PAN Vintage: 2009 Varietal(s): BAGA Region: BAIRRADA Production: 3,066 BOTTLES Winemaker: LUÍS PATO “Luis Pato has been experimenting with Baga since he left his career as a civil engineer to take over his family’s old-vine blocks in 1980. At the time, most Baga was undrinkable for its first ten years in bottle; it was often grown on high-yielding vines that rarely ripened their grapes before rains began on the coast, leaving the wines severely tannic. His innovative farming and early experiments with destemming the grapes and aging in new French oak has helped reinterpret Baga, his wines developing with age into something akin to Burgundy or Barolo, depending on the season and the site. Pato’s vines at Vinha Pan are 33-years-old, farmed with restricted yields to express their claylimestone soil within black-fruited exuberance. This 2009 captures the round, supple character of the vintage in Bairrada; it’s fragrant and brisk, a young wine with intensity and gracious tannins.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua da Quinta Nova, 3780-017 Amoreira da Gândara, Portugal Contact: Luís Pato Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 231 596 432 Website: www.luispato.com US Importer: Wine in Motion Contact: Pedro Veloso US Address: 2421 Lorio Court, Suite A Union, NJ 07083-8137 Email: [email protected] Phone: 908.688.3837 32 Producer: QUINTA DAS BÁGEIRAS Wine Name: GARRAFEIRA RED Vintage: 2009 Varietal(s): BAGA Region: BAIRRADA Production: 8,676 BOTTLES Winemaker: RUI ALVES “A great Bairrada, this wine presents concentric circles of flavor, its fully ripe tannins releasing complex scents that shift from woodland red berries to tangerine pith and cumin-like spice. It smells fantastic and tastes juicy and rich, capturing a classic vintage for Baga in the power and intensity of its tannins. Mario Sérgio Alves Nuno makes this wine from his family’s old-vine parcels on the region’s clay–limestone soils, where he farms the fruit to ripen the stems and uses all of those stems in his fermentations. He ferments the wine in 100-year-old Portuguese oak vats (3,000 liters), where it ages for 18 months prior to bottling. This is one of the most traditional old-vine Bairradas, and consistently one of the best.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Fogueira 3780-523 Sangalhos, Portugal Contact: Mário Sérgio Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 234 742 102 Website: www.quintadasbageiras.pt US Importer: Aidil Wines/ Wine Wise Contact: Pedro Carvalho/ Hiram Simon US Address: 574 Ferry Street, Newark, NJ 5655 College Avenue Oakland, CA Email: [email protected] [email protected] Phone: 973.712.0950 510.848.6879 33 Producer: JOÃO BRITO E CUNHA Wine Name: QUINTA DE S. JOSÉ TOURIGA NACIONAL Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL Region: DOURO Production: 2,700 BOTTLES Winemaker: JOÃO BRITO E CUNHA “João Brito e Cunha owns this north-facing vineyard across the Douro from Romaneira, where he farms 25 acres of vines organically. His Touriga Nacional vines are now 15 years old, growing on blue and gray schist soils. He ferments this wine in stainless steel then ages it in large (400 liter) second-use French oak barrels; that oak is present in the wine but remains in the background. The foreground is much more complex than most single-variety Tourigas, pulling aside a full drape of purple fruit to reveal a silken fabric of purple–black tannins. The tannins seem to refract the broken edges of schist, rounded by oak into richness. The wine has flavor dimensions as well as cut, the structure as tight as the skin around a plump black cherry.” – Joshua Greene Address: Rua Augusto César, 99 – 5000-591 Vila Real, Portugal Contact: João Brito e Cunha Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 934 041 413 Website: www.quintasjose.com US Importer: Currently seeking US importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 34 Producer: MUXAGAT VINHOS Wine Name: RED Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL, TOURIGA FRANCA, SOUSÃO Region: DOURO Production: 15,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: MATEUS NICOLAU DE ALMEIDA “Mateus Nicolau de Almeida blends this wine from two parcels in the Douro Superior, one near the river at 820 feet facing north, the other at 1,800 facing south. He farms the higher elevation vines sustainably and began farming the riverside parcel under biodynamics five years ago. Nicolau de Almeida harvests early, ferments without added yeast and ages the wine in barrels that average five years old, ranging from 225 to 500 liters. The result is a Douro original, glowing with red fruit shot through with schist. It’s a wine of restrained ripeness and textural cool.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Avenida Gago Coutinho e Sacadura Cabral 6430-183 Mêda, Portugal Contact: Mateus Nicolau De Almeida Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 279 883 009 Website: www.muxagat.pt US Importer: Winebow Inc. Contact: Frank Paredes US Address: 75 Chestnut Ridge Road, Montvale, NJ 07645 Email: [email protected] Phone: 973.985.8694 35 Producer: QUINTA SEARA D'ORDENS Wine Name: TALENTVS GRANDE ESCOLHA Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL (50%), TOURIGA FRANCA (25%), TINTA RORIZ (25%) Region: DOURO Production: 6,092 BOTTLES Winemaker: LUÍS SOARES DUARTE “Luís Soares Duarte makes this wine at a vineyard in the hills northeast of Regua, in the Cima Corgo district of the Douro. This is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, vinified in stainless steel without added yeast, aged in new barriques for a year and then in bottle for ten months. It’s a grand expression of Douro power, fragrant with rose, mulberry and wild blueberry notes, elegant in its layers of schist and new oak tannins.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: 5050-342 Poiares, Portugal Contact: José Moreira Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 254 906 415 Website: www.searadordens.com US Importer: Emporium Nostrum/ Casa Ventura Imports,Inc Contact: Danielle Liagi/ Basilio Rodriguez US Address: 908 Algeria Avenue, Coral Gables, Florida 33134 3216 lowa Dr., Bellingham, WA 98229 Email: [email protected] [email protected] Phone: 305.450.5550 360.303.1760 36 Producer: JORGE NOBRE MOREIRA Wine Name: POEIRA Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): OLD VINES Region: DOURO Production: 15,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: JORGE MOREIRA “An elegant wine with the perfumed scent of sour cherries, this is a soft, gentle red blended from a vineyard of mixed old vines above the right bank of the Pinhão River. Jorge Moreira chose his 22-acre vineyard for table wine as it faces north, so the grapes ripen less quickly than in the surrounding Port wine vineyards, and they maintain their acidity well. His 2010 has the floral spice of Douro’s oldvine blends, and compelling schist tannins that lend an undercurrent of power —a sunny wine that seems to expand and contract with each breath after a taste of its dynamic flavors.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Provesende 5060-283 Sabrosa, Portugal Contact: Jorge Moreira Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 939 506 699 Website: www.poeira.pt US Importer: Tri Vin Contact: John Oliveira US Address: One Park Avenue, Mount Vernon, NY 10550 Email: [email protected] Phone: 914.664.3155 37 Producer: NIEPOORT VINHOS Wine Name: BATUTA Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): TINTA AMARELA, TOURIGA FRANCA, TINTA RORIZ, RUFETE, MALVAZIA PRETA AND OTHERS Region: DOURO Production: 13,014 BOTTLES Winemaker: DIRK NIEPOORT AND TEAM “The Niepoort family purchased the Quinta do Carril in 1987, and Dirk Niepoort soon found its north-facing slopes well suited to the style of table wine he hoped to create. The vineyard is near the Tedo River, just upstream of its confluence with the Douro. Niepoort bases Batuta on the fruit of its 70-year-old vines, blending in grapes from 100-yearold vines at two vineyards in the neighborhood. Those vines include Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Rufete, Malvasia Preta and a host of others. The age of the vines restricted yields in an otherwise abundant vintage, creating this brisk 2010, fermented without added yeast, macerated on its skins for 60 days, and then aged in French oak for close to two years. It’s bursting with fruit complexity (salted plums, green olive notes, pink grapefruit acidity). The finish is fresh, even as it’s gripping with the smoke of schist tannins.” -Joshua Green notes: Address: Rua Cândido do Reis, 670 – 4400-071 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal Contact: Verena Niepoort Email: [email protected] Phone: + 351 223 770 770 Website: www.niepoort-vinhos.com US Importer: Martine’s Wines, Inc. Contact: Gregory Castells US Address: 285 Bel Marin Keys Blvd., Suite Q, Novato, CA 94949 Email: [email protected] Phone: 415.883.0400 38 Producer: WINE & SOUL Wine Name: QUINTA DA MANOELLA VINHAS VELHAS Vintage: 2010 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL (60%), TOURIGA FRANCA (25%), TINTA RORIZ (10%), TINTA FRANCISCA (5%) Region: DOURO Production: 10,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: JORGE BORGES AND SANDRA TAVARES “Jorge Serodio Borges’s great-grandfather planted the Quinta da Manoella after phylloxera, about 120 years ago. Serodio Borges now farms it with his wife and winemaking partner, Sandra Tavares. The oldest vines grow at three blocks at varied altitudes and include a substantial proportion of Tinta Francisca, which Tavares describes as “a very fresh variety, with red fruit and beautiful acidity. Listening to old people, they used Francisca in the blend for acidity, for longevity.” They ferment their Vinhas Velhas blend in lagares and age it in older French oak barriques. Serodio Borges believes the delicacy of this wine’s red fruit is part of the personality of the vineyard; the 2010 vintage leads with that bright red fruit and spice before blossoming with schist tannins, their muscular, sinewy structure holding it tight. Built like a marathon runner, this is set up to age for decades.” -Joshua Greene notes: Address: Avª Julio de Freitas 6, Portugal Contact: Sandra Tavares Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 254 738 076 Website: www.wineandsoul.com US Importer: Winebow Inc. Contact: Megan O’Connor US Address: 75 Chestnut Ridge Road, Montvale, NJ 07645 Email: [email protected] Phone: 201.930.2361 39 Producer: ADRIANO RAMOS PINTO Wine Name: COLLECTION Vintage: 2009 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL (50%), TOURIGA FRANCA (40%), TINTA DA BARCA (10%) Region: DOURO Production: Winemaker: JOÃO NICOLAU DE ALMEIDA “This captures a warm, dry vintage in the Douro with gentleness, a textural pleasure in cushioned velvet and fresh fruit preserved. João Nicolau de Almeida blends this wine from two estate vineyards, Ervamoira in the Douro Superior and Bom Retiro in the Cima Corgo, where a block of 80-yearold mixed vines makes up 25 percent of the blend. He vinifies the old-vine fruit in lagares, while fermenting single-variety blocks of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca in stainless steel. The freshness of the Bom Retiro fruit melds with the powerful, concentrated flavors of grapes from the Douro Superior, creating a wine with floral scents of blueberries and firm schist tannins, round, smoky and complex.” -Joshua Greene notes: Address: 4400-266 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal Contact: João Machete Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 223 707 000 Website: www.ramospinto.pt US Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA Inc. Contact: Ilene Denaro US Address: 383 Fourth Street, Suite 400, Oakland, CA 94607 Email: [email protected] Phone: 510.587.2000 40 Producer: DUORUM VINHOS Wine Name: RESERVA VINHAS VELHAS Vintage: 2009 Varietal(s): FIELD BLEND OF MAINLY TOURIGA NACIONAL (45%), TOURIGA FRANCA (45%), TINTA RORIZ (5%), SOUSÃO (5%) Region: DOURO Production: 10,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: JOSÉ MARIA SOARES FRANCO “João Portugal Ramos and José Maria Soares Franco graduated from the same agronomy school class of 1977. Thirty years later, after Soares Franco had built his name as the winemaker for Ferreira, and Portugal Ramos had built a small wine empire from his base in Alentejo, the two winemakers partnered in this Douro project. They make Duorum from vineyards Soares Franco got to know during his career at Ferreira. This wine is a field blend from 50-yearold vines at two vineyards near in Foz Coa—Quinta Castelo Melhor facing northeast and Quinta do Custódio facing north. Soares Franco ferments it in stainless steel without added yeast, and then ages it in new French oak barriques for two years. It carries the tart, purple berry flavors of Portuguese varieties on the bristle of schist tannins. The texture of the fruit is supple, layered under French oak. That oak aging has polished the tannins and made the wine approachable, even though the structure is tight.” -Joshua Greene notes: Address: Quinta de Castelo Melhor EN 222 -5150-146 V. N. Foz Côa, Portugal Contact: Maria Pica Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 268 339 910 Website: www.duorum.pt US Importer: Winebow Inc. Contact: Frank Paredes US Address: 75 Chestnut Ridge Rd., Montvale, NJ 07645 Email: [email protected] Phone: 201.445.0620 41 Producer: QUINTA DO PORTAL Wine Name: RESERVA Vintage: 2008 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL (40%), TINTA RORIZ (45%), TOURIGA FRANCA (15%) Region: DOURO Production: 2,620 CASES Winemaker: PAULO COUTINHO “A modern Douro red, this presents the purple fruit of the region’s distinct grapes with a robe of new oak. The plump fruit is soft, round and ready, while the earthiness and umami schist of the tannins lends the wine finesse and detail. Let this open in a decanter and the scent of esteva develops, along with roses and a woodland coolness. Paulo Coutinho blends this wine from Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional And Franca grown at three vineyards in the Cima Corgo.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: EN 323 Celeirós do Douro 5060 Sabrosa, Portugal Contact: Pedro Branco Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 225 512 028 Website: www.quintadoportal.com US Importer: M Imports, LLC Contact: Mark Macedonio US Address: 102 Fairfield Beach Rd., Fairfield, CT 06824 Email: [email protected] Phone: 214.505.0616 42 Producer: FOLIAS DE BACO Wine Name: OLHO NO PÉ GRANDE RESERVA RED Vintage: 2008 Varietal(s): MIXED OF NATIVE VARIETALS Region: DOURO Production: 3,550 BOTTLES Winemaker: TIAGO SAMPAIO “A selection from three vineyards in the Cima Corgo at 1,600 to 1,950 feet, all around 70 years old with mixed vines, this is fermented in stainless steel without added yeast, then aged in French oak barriques (25 percent new). The relatively coolness of the vineyards and the relatively light extraction allows the old-vine spiciness to shine in a wine that could grow nowhere but the Douro. Intriguingly red and black, shifting from roses to tar and back to strawberry, this is plump, generous, expansive and youthfully dynamic. A great 2008, which is a great vintage for Douro reds.” – Joshua Greene Address: Rua Antonio Candido, 7 – 5070-029 Alijo, Portugal Contact: Tiago Sampaio Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 960 487 850 Website: www.foliasdebaco.com US Importer: Currently seeking US importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 43 Producer: QUINTA DO NOVAL Wine Name: RED WINE Vintage: 2008 Varietal(s): Touriga Nacional (50%), Touriga Franca (40%), Tinto Cão (10%) Region: DOURO Production: 1,500 CASES Winemaker: ANTÓNIO AGRELLOS “An historic vineyard site combines with an exceptional season to offer this sophisticated take on Douro schist. António Agrellos worked with Christian Seely on the replanting of the grand, whitewashed terraces of Noval, where the vines are now 17 years old. Touriga Nacional played a major role in that replanting, providing new material for Agrellos to develop a table wine program. Touriga Nacional makes up half of this blend, the balance from Touriga Franca and Tinta Cão. He ferments the wine in stainless steel, and then ages it in French oak barriques (20 percent new). Though black and reduced when first opened, it reveals brighter notes of fruit as it takes on air. The structure of the wine is huge, filled with schist tannins, and yet it’s fine, floral and zesty, perfumed with warm spice.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Avenida Diogo Leite, 254 | 4400-111 V.N. Gaia, Portugal Contact: Rute Monteiro Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 223 770 270 Website: www.quintadonoval.com US Importer: Vintus Contact: Alex Michas US Address: 42 Memorial Plaza, Ste. 210, Pleasantville, NY 10570 Email: [email protected] Phone: 914.769.3000 44 Producer: QUINTA DA SEQUEIRA Wine Name: RESERVA RED Vintage: 2008 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL, TOURIGA FRANCA, TINTA RORIZ, TINTA AMARELA, TINTA BARROCA Region: DOURO Production: 7,750 BOTTLES Winemaker: MÁRIO CARDOSO “This vineyard, established at the end of the 19th century in Vila Nova de Foz Coa, is now run by the fifth generation of the founding family, Maria da Graça and her husband, Mário Cardoso. Their 37 acres of vines include some of the original plantings, now more than 100 years old. The heat of the Douro Superior comes across in the black fig flavors and the compression of this wine’s tannins, giving a sense of warmth. Violet notes and the potent richness of red fruit more than balances the blacker tones of all the schist tannins, creating a lasting tension.” – Joshua Greene Address: Horta Do Douro5155-336 Horta Vlf, Portugal Contact: Mário Cardoso Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 932 469 456 Website: www.quintadasequeira.com US Importer: Currently seeking US importer Contact: US Address: Email: Phone: notes: 45 Producer: QUINTA DO SAGRADO Wine Name: MUTANTE Vintage: 2007 Varietal(s): OLD VINE VARIETALS (33%), BLEND OF VARIETALS (31%), TINTA AMARELA (14%), TOURIGA FRANCESA (11%), TOURIGA NACIONAL (6%), TINTA RORIZ (5%) Region: DOURO Production: 12,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: JOSÉ MARIA CALEM “When the Calem family sold their Port shipping business in 1977, they kept this quinta just downriver from Pinhão, which had been part of A.A. Calem since the 19th century. They renovated the terraces in the 1980s and replanted, keeping some of the old vines. José Maria Calem ferments this wine without added yeast, and then ages it in mostly new French oak barriques. One-third of this blend is from the old vines, which provide complexity in layer upon layer of color and flavor. The wine’s concentration doesn’t close it off, but seems to open up the schist tannins and reveal the floral spice, the scents of fresh cherries and the flavors of a range of wild berries.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua da Reboleira 7, 4050-492 Porto, Portugal Contact: José Maria Calem Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 222 004 867 Website: www.quintadosagrado.pt US Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines Contact: Andrew Mulligan US Address: 575 Underhill Blvd., Suite 216, Syosset, NY 11791 Email: [email protected] Phone: 516.677.9300 ext 515 46 Producer: MADEIRA WINE COMPANY Wine Name: BLANDY’S COLHEITA BUAL Vintage: 1996 Varietal(s): BUAL Region: MADEIRA Production: 3,000 (500 ML) BOTTLES Winemaker: FRANCISCO ALBUQUERQUE “The Blandy family has been in the Madeira trade since 1811, and became part of the Madeira Wine Company in the 1950s. Chris Blandy runs the firm today. Their Bual grows at vineyards in the southwestern lowlands of Madeira, where the variety produced a short crop in 1996. Winemaker Francisco Albuquerque begins the fermentation in stainless steel without added yeast, then stops it with the addition of brandy; he ages the naturally sweet result in old American and French oak barrels for 15 years. This is a Bual that glows with apricot richness, its glorious ripeness seeming to feed the flavors rather than to sweeten them. Meaty in its scent, heady in its smoky potency, this could be a wine from the Stone Age, or a completely modern wine for dinner tonight, poured to match the sharp acidity of a sheep’s cheese.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua dos Ferreiros, 191 9000-082 Funchal, Portugal Contact: Ricardo Tavares Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 291 740 100 Website: www.blandys.com US Importer: Premium Port Wines Contact: Peter Scott US Address: 280 Utah Street, San Francisco, CA 94103-4842 Email: [email protected] Phone: 415.554.9920 47 Producer: SOGEVINUS FINE WINES Wine Name: BURMESTER TORDIZ 40 YEAR OLD TAWNY PORT Vintage: NV Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL (30%), TINTA RORIZ (30%), TOURIGA FRANCA (30%), TINTA BARROCA (10%) Region: DOURO Production: Winemaker: CARLOS ALVES “This shipper, established in 1750, has maintained exceptional old Tawny stocks at their lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia. Their casks range in size from 225 to 600 liters and from ten to 60 years old. Those casks are filled with ancient Ports, blended together to provide this shimmering 40-year-old. Within its depths of spice you might find scents of tart apples, the plump flesh of an orange, and the richness of butter cream. Subtle edges of acidity and tannin give it definition, defining deliciousness.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Avenida Diogo Leite nº 344 – 4400-111 Vila Nova de Gai, Portugal Contact: Stefano Marello Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 223 746 660 Website: www.sogevinus.com US Importer: Sogevinus Fine Wines USA, Inc. Contact: Sandra Marques US Address: 2421 Iorio Ct, 2nd Floor, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083 Email: [email protected] Phone: 908.688.3837 48 Producer: SYMINGTON FAMILY ESTATES Wine Name: GRAHAM’S SINGLE HARVEST TAWNY PORT Vintage: 1969 Varietal(s): BLEND OF TRADITIONAL DOURO GRAPE VARIETALS Region: DOURO Production: 356 CASES Winemaker: CHARLES SYMINGTON “Recently, the Symington family released a 1952 Colheita, a cask-aged Tawny from a single vintage, in honor of Queen Elizabeth’s Silver Jubilee. Reaching into their old stocks, they also bottled this wine, from an earlier moment in its evolution. At 44 years of age, it is still fresh with scents of oranges and apricot. Juicy and grand in the middle, where the supple texture cushions the intensity of the flavors, it lasts with refinement and a whisper of butter brickle.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Travessa Barão de Forrester No. 86 P - 4431-901 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal Contact: Rui Ribeiro Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 913 779 845 Website: www.symington.com US Importer: Premium Port Wines, Inc. Contact: Louis Charton US Address: 280 Utah Street, San Francisco, CA 94103-4842 Email: [email protected] Phone: 415.554.9924 49 Producer: FONSECA Wine Name: VINTAGE PORTO Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): TOURIGA NACIONAL, TOURIGA FRANCA, TINTA BARROCA, TINTA RORIZ, TINTO CÃO, TINTA AMARELA Region: DOURO Production: 6,000 Cases Winemaker: DAVID GUIMARAENS “Fonseca’s Vintage is a blend from three estate vineyards, focused on the Cima Corgo fruit of the Pinhão Valley. David Guimaraens selects the fruit from 15- to 80-year-old vines, ferments in granite lagares with indigenous yeast, and then ages the wine for two years in old oak. He bottles it without fining or filtration. The 2011 vintage played right into Fonseca’s luscious style: “The ripening season was hot and dry but the vineyards had plentiful reserves of ground water built up during the previous winter,” Guimaraens reports. “This meant that the vines were never stressed and produced a perfectly ripened crop.” For now, it’s a tumble of deep red fruit, esteva spice and schist pouring out of the glass. The tension seems to build out of the wine’s fruit sweetness. As with the best of Fonseca’s vintages, it harnesses volumes of fruit with power and grace.” -Joshua Greene notes: Address: Box 1311EC Santa Marinha 4401-501 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal Contact: Ana Margarida Morgado Email: [email protected] Phone: +351 223 742 800 Website: www.fonseca.pt US Importer: Kobrand Contact: Robert Bower US Address: 1 Manhattanville Road, 4th Floor, Purchase, NY 10577 Email: [email protected] Phone: 914.253.7700 50 Producer: NIEPOORT VINHOS Wine Name: VINTAGE Vintage: 2011 Varietal(s): TOURIGA FRANCA, TINTA RORIZ, TINTO CÃO, TINTA FRANCISCA, TINTA AMARELA, SOUSÃO AND OTHER Region: DOURO Production: 15,000 BOTTLES Winemaker: DIRK NIEPOORT AND TEAM “Niepoort’s Vintage is a selection from four vineyards, all in the range of 80 to 100 years old. It’s fermented without added yeast in the circular lagares at the firm’s Adega de Vale Mendiz, then aged in old Portuguese oak vats for two years before bottling. A product of a remarkable season as well as of Dirk Niepoort’s dedication to sustaining great old-vine mixed plantings of the Douro, this presents a mille-feuille of purple fruit and schist, layer upon layer of detailed flavor formed into a massive wine. It feels cool and comprehensive, with seductively sexy, youthful power ready to consume time in the decades ahead.” – Joshua Greene notes: Address: Rua Cândido do Reis, 670 – 4400-071 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal Contact: Verena Niepoort Email: [email protected] Phone: + 351 223 770 770 Website: www.niepoort-vinhos.com US Importer: Martine’s Wines, Inc. Contact: Gregory Castells US Address: 285 Bel Marin Keys Blvd., Suite Q, Novato, CA 94949 Email: [email protected] Phone: 415.883.0400