October - Fine wine magazine

Transcription

I n s p i r at i o n a l w i n e k n o w l e d g e a n d t h e p e o p l e b e h i n d t h e d r i n k
YEARS
Oc t obe r
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
WebAuctio
a time for Amarone! page 15
long awaited news from
köpingsbergs vineyard page 29
2014
n s p e c ia l
I N T E
R N A T
I O N A
L
the taste of a dream page 38
page 8 sherry wine foundations, pre-conditions and potential page 8 a time for Amarone! page 19 a perfect
ten? page 24 martinborough vineyard – Pioneers with promising future SID 29 long awaited news from
köpingsbergs vineyard page 35 border trade – knows no boundaries! page 38 the taste of a dream page 44 the
cherry heering story
Fine Spirits – Collectable Investments page 49 the story of bache gabrielsen cognac page 52 daniel
boulud in cooperation with dalmore
WebAuction Special: PAGE 53 STOCKHOLM BEVERAGE AUCTION 6-8 OKTOBER page 56 SOTHEBY´s HONG KONG
AUKTION 4 OKTOBER
EDITORIAL
YEARS
Fine Wine International - Autumn Edition!
Time again for a new edition of Fine Wine this 10th anniversary in 2014.
As usual it is packed with interesting news and information, and investment
advice from both near and far..
Johan Franco Cereceda believes that´s Amarone time for Sweden when the
autumn flavours makes make their entrance and Susanne continues with the
second part of her series of articles on Sherry.
We also present an analysis of the last 10 years of beverage auctions from around
the world and take a look at how the prices have followed the economic cycle or not. Stuart George has done an interesting analysis.
Then we want to tell you about a Pinot Noir pioneer in New Zealand and
Christoffer Jarnvall provides some interesting comments on border trade.
We´ll also look more closely at one of the largest Swedish successes ever in the
international premium vodka market.
And of course, we´ll supply you with lots of tips on the upcoming online auctions,
in real time, both here at home and around the world.
In other words business as usual.
Have fun
Ove Canemyr
Chefredaktör Fine Wine –the on-line Magazine in a glass of its own!
www.FineWine.nu
Fine Wine - the on-line Magazine
Let us know of any interesting events, meetings and so on, in your part of the world. [email protected] We cannot accept responsibility
for unsolicited material, omissions or inaccuracies. Please quote freely from Fine wine, but we ask that you always reveal your source.
Editoral Office:
Ove Canemyr: Editor in Chief , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB,
English texts: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] Editing and Proofreading: Kristine Bibby, [email protected]
Cover Photo: Anne-Marie Canemyr
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notice
News from Allesverloren
Danie Malan from Allesverloren presented a novelty
test recently at the
Stockholm
Wine
Bar. A brand new
blend called Allesverloren Trés Vermelhos 2012.
The wine ´s Article
no is 78380 and is now available in the
order assortment at the Systembolaget. (The Swedish state owned offlicence chain) A very exciting wine for
all lovers of South African wines.
They also presented the new vintages
of Tinta Barocca Rosé 2013 also there
are in the order range with part no
73280 and Touriga Nacional 2011 and
Danies previous success in Sweden,
Danie’s Backyard Blend 2011.
This year’s PRIMA
Christmas aquavit has
the full taste of dates,
brandy and lemon
PRIMA´s Yultide schnapps will be
launched for the 21st time and has become a great tradition on the Swedish
Christmas table. The flavor is inspired
by the first julsnapsen launched in
1994 and which was Rånäs Vodka.
Herb Master Jonas Odland has created a Christmas aquavit aromatic
with tones of dates, brandy and citrus,
something which will enhance the flavours of herrings, cheeses and dishes
from the sea and lakes.
PRIMA Christmas aquavit 2014 is available from October 1 of BS. A bottle of
500 ml costs 209:- Swedish crowns Article no 86308-02.
Giacomo Neri Focuses on
top quality
Giacomo Neri of Casanova di Neri has a clear
philosophy on how to
create quality wines
year after year. “- It´s
in the vineyard that
quality is determined.
It’s not me or the work
in the wine cellar that is crucial... “.
The following vintages were tasted at Johan Lidby´s in Stockholm.
A vertical of Brunello de Montalcino
209,2008,2007 and 1990 vintages, all
made from grapes from the oldest vines
and stored in Slovenian oak casks for 45
months, followed by 6 months in the bottle, which creates the sophistication and
elegance that is characteristic of these
wines. 2009 is in the System Bolaget´s order range and has art no 79234 (the Systembolaget is the Swedish state owned
off-licence retail outlet chain)
Then it was the turn of Brunello di Montacino Tenuta Nuova 2008, 1999 and 1997
in oak barrels for 27-36 months depending on the vintage and one year in bottle. 2008 is in the order range of art no
79235th Price 599: -Swedish Crowns.
The famous angel passed around the
room when the Brunello di Montalcino
Cerretalto 2007 was in the glasses and the
assembled band of wine writers looked at
each other with a smile. “- An endless wine
...” was one of the opinions and Giacomo
nodded slowly in affirmation..
Enthusiasts might find some bottles in the
order range at the Systembolaget with art
no 76942nd Price 1999:- Swedish crowns.
Burgundy Chateau de
Corton Andre sold to the
owner of La Lagune
The Frey family, owner of Chateau La
Lagune in Bordeaux and Domaine
Paul Jaboulet Aine in the Rhone, has
bought Chateau de Corton André in
Burgundy for an undisclosed fee.
The estate, on the Corton hill in the
Cote de Beaune was part of the Maison Corton Andre negociant house,
which was sold a few weeks ago to
another Burgundy negociant house,
Bejot Vins & Terroirs. It has now been
sold on to the Frey family. The sale has
been completed by Jean-Jacques Frey
and includes seven hectares of vineyard land in Corton, Volnay, Mersault
and Pommard.
The chateau, known to have a roof
that resembles that of the Hospices de
Beaune, was previously owned by the
Ballande group.
Caroline Frey, Jean- Jacques’ daughter
will run the property, as she does the
other family wine estates.
F I N E W I N E o n yo u r R e a d e r Pa d
N o w ’s t h e t i m e t o f i l l u p yo u r r e a d e r p a d w i t h s o m e c o n t e n t .
Yo u c a n d o w n l o a d Fi n e Wi n e a s a Pd f f i l e a n d r e a d i t o n t h e r e a d e r.
P l e a s e p a s s t h i s o n t o f r i e n d s a n d a c q u a i n t e n c e s.
w w w. f i n e3w i n e. n u
notice
A Run of Success for Saint
Clair Family Estate
Saint Clair Family Estate is celebrating
a run of success with recent wine show
award announcements, both in New
Zealand and Europe.
The New Zealand International Wine
Show, now in its tenth year, has cemented itself as the largest wine competition
held in New Zealand with over 2000 entrants, of any variety, from any country.
Results just released have Saint Clair
awarded seven gold medals across a
range of varietals and price points. The
Saint Clair wines that achieved gold
medal status are as follows;
• Gold - Saint Clair Marlborough Premium Pinot Noir 2013
• Gold - Saint Clair Pioneer Block 16
Awatere Pinot Noir 2012
The PIO CESARE tasting with Pio Boffa at The
Operakällaren
• Gold - Saint Clair Hawkes Bay Premium Cabernet Merlot Malbec 2013
On a beautiful late summer day in Stockholm Pio Boffa held a lunchtime tasting
at the Operakällaren that almost took the breath away from the luncheon guests
around the table.
• Gold - Saint Clair Hawkes Bay Premium Malbec 2013
Pio began the test by saying: “-A wine should be a pleasure to enjoy with friends”.
• Gold - Saint Clair Pioneer Block 11
Cell Block Chardonnay 2013
• Gold - Saint Clair Omaka Reserve
Chardonnay 2013
• Gold - Saint Clair Godfrey’s Creek
Reserve Noble Riesling 2013
Sotheby’s is opening of its
first retail wine store in
Asia
Driven by the team at Sotheby’s Wine,
this full-service business makes a wide
range of wines available to collectors,
investors and wine drinkers through the
retail store, which is located in Sotheby’s
Hong Kong Gallery on the 5th floor of
One Pacific Place, and a cutting edge,
bilingual e-commerce website (http://
www.sothebyswine.com.hk).
This is the second Sotheby’s Wine retail
store, following the successful launch
of its first location in 2010, at Sotheby’s
New York headquarters. Sotheby’s Wine
is the only major global auctioneer offering fine wines at retail in both New
York and Hong Kong.
The test began with two white Chardonnayer L` Altro 2013 and 2012 Piodilei Then
we tasted the Lange Nebbiolo 2010, Barbera dAlba Fides 2011 and 2011.
Followed the 2009 Barbaresco, Barolo 2009, IL Brico Ornato 2009 and in 2009.
The menu was grilled hand-caught scallops from Fröya with ravioli, dried tomato
and beurre blanc, to which we tasted the 2012 Piodilei, Chanterell braised quail
with cabbage & chips enjoyed with 2007 Barolo and Barbaresco 2005.
Along with the Piedmontese cheeses they served Barabresco IL Bricco Barolo Ornato 2005 and in 2007.
The menu ended with Strawberry parfait with lemon sorbet, chocolate biscuit and
elderberry vinaigrette, accompanied by Moscato d’Asti 2013.
An excellent display of good food a drink.
One of the great names in Champagne has passed away
On the 11th August Nicolas Feuillatte, the man who gave his name to the largest
cooperative in Champagne, has passed away at eighty-eight years old. Nicolas,
who was born 29 January 1926 in a Parisian merchant family who sought prosperity in the United States in the wake of World War II. There, Nicolas made a fortune in importing coffee and cocoa, mainly from the Ivory Coast. He succeeded
so well that he became the Honorary Consul for the small West African country
and was given diplomatic status.
Soon, he found himself in the middle of New York’s jet set with friends like Jackie
Onassis, Shirley MacLaine and Lauren Bacall.
In 1976 he returned to France and came across twelve-acre vineyard in Champagne, and started producing wine and his friends back in the United States
couldn´t get enough of the delicious bubbles.
4
notice
New trendy white champagne launched in Sweden Lanson White Label Sec
Lanson, one of the world’s oldest champagne houses, is now launching a new
product in Sweden - Lanson White Label (Article number 77240). This champagne
is tasty and exclusive and has rapidly become very popular at trendy clubs around
the world thanks to its fresh and fruity style.
Lanson White Label is characterized by fruity tones and fresh minerality. The
aroma and flavor are reminiscent of white peaches, orange blossom, citrus and
honey. The champagne is marketed as the perfect aperitif to be served together
with nibbles during mingling times at parties. To use Lansons own words – it´s
the perfect starter !
Just like a vintage Champagne, Lanson White Label is stored for 36 months to
achieve a clear flavor and the playful style which is called Dry Sec. This blend is
a bit sweeter than Lansons other series, but still retains the characteristic acidity.
Previously estimated cuvées from the Champagne house Lanson, are Lanson
Black Label (article no 7500) and Lanson Extra Age (Article No. 77138), known in
the wine world as the really classic “The Lanson Style”. This style avoids malolactic
fermentation to produce a fruitier and fresher wine. In addition to these they also
Champagnes of exceptional vintages.
Venerable Champagne house Lanson’s history dates back to the year 1760 and
in 1838 Champagne House Lanson grasped initiative to export outside of France,
and is amongst other things it was purveyor to the Swedish Royal Family and has
the British Royal Warrant since Queen Victoria’s time.
Lanson is also sponsoring the sommelier SM, and sommelier NM.
Lanson is imported into Sweden by Chris Wine & Spirits.
Robertson Wine celebrates success through
international e-trading
Roberson Wine has been named England´s best independent wine
merchants-as well as England’s best California dealer of the IWC in
2014 .
Roberson Wine was founded in 1991 by Cliff Roberson, who has
worked in the wine business for many decades, including at Chateau
Lascombes and Sherry-Lehman in New York.
The ambition with Roberson Wine was to create London’s best place to
buy wine. They knew from the start what they wanted: A huge selection of Burgundy and Bordeaux; wines from lesser-known producers
of the highest quality, from professionals with extensive knowledge
and a passion for wine.
Today the aim remains the same. One feels that there is a need for a
specialist amidst all of the chains stores and you are still compelled
to seek out wines from around the world which offer value, character
and content.
Robertson Wine has a shop in west London and delivers wines to restaurants who have been awarded a total of 70 Michelin Stars in the UK,
Hong Kong and Sweden.
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Those interested can read more on
www.robersonwine.se
notice
… then we take Berlin
Leonard Cohen´s famous song will
be most appropriate when the winner of the Peter F Heering Sling award
for 2014 will be presented live on the
7th-8th October in at the Bar Convent
Berlin.- (http://www.barconvent.com)
There will be a tasting och the opening” by David Wondrich
And the actual final that same eveing
at the Ritz Carlton
The five finalists will compete with
their own interpretation of the famous, classic cocktail the Singapore
Sling.
The 5 finalists represent, Kanada, Estland, Danmark, Singapore och USA.
More than 2000 bartenders competed
in 44 different countries which makes
the Peter F Heering Sling Award one
of the biggesty cocktail competitions
in the world. 44 Nationel winners
were chosen and recieved support in
marketing their cocktails in their own
countries
17 semi finalists then flew to London
where a jury of experts whittled them
down to the last 5.
5 SLING AWARD FINALISTS
RECIPES
The bittered sling
Taoufike Zrafi - Canada
”Pour all ingredients except garnishes
in a shaker with ice, shake hard, strain
into a collins glass over fresh ice, top
with ginger all and garnish, enjoy.
30 ml cherry heering
30 ml Tanqueray gin
15 ml fernet branca
15 ml orgeat syrup
15 ml fresh lemon juice
45 ml fever tree ginger
ale”
The Slow Sling
Nick Kobbernagel Hovind
Denmark
”In a boston glass combine the
following ingredients.
2 cl. Cherry Heering
1,5 cl. Bitter Truth Sloe gin
4 cl. Aalborg Taffel Aquavit
3 dashes Peychaud’s
Bitters
3 cl. Fresh lemon juice
1 cl. Simple Syrup
1 small dash egg white
Shake all ingredients hard
for 8 seconds. Double
strain into a very chilled
Palais glass. Top with 3 cl.
soda and stir. Garnish.”
cocktail into the glass. Slide the rim of
the glass with an orange peel. Garnish
with anything You would like :) Enjoy!”
Fables of the East Aron
Christian Lobrino Manzanillo
Singapore
”Glass ware; Tulip Glass 20ml Peter Heering
15ml Tanqueray 10 Gin
10ml Aperol
Dash of Angostura Bitters
15ml Lemon Juice
10ml Simple Syrup
35ml Pineapple Juice
3 pcs. Amarena Cherry
3Thick Slices of Celery
Splash of Soda water
Muddle Amarena Cherry
and Celery in a mixing
glass, add the rest of
ingredients expect the
soda water. Shake and
strain in a Tulip glass,
served with cube of ice
and splash with soda
water. Place garnish and
serve.”
Pepito’s Slingshot
Jon Kraus USA
”1.0 Ilegal Joven Mezcal
5oz Heering
5oz Barolo Chinato
5oz Yellow Chartreuse
25oz Ancho Reyes
75oz Lime
O’ Polo Sling
Sigrid Sarv Estonia
”Before starting to mix the
cocktail, we have to make
the tea - which is the key
ingredient in this drink.
Use a sweet berry loose
leaf tea (10g of tea and
100ml of water), mix it with boiling
water (leave it to stay for 5 minutes)
and cool it down. After this is done
- we can start to make the cocktail :)
Take a old-fashioned glass and add ice
into it, leave it to cool. Take a Shaker
and start to put into it the following
ingredients (the ice cubes are the last
thing you add to the shaker).
Recipe: 15 ml Fresh Lemon Juice
15 ml Cherry Heering Liqueur
30 ml Miyagikyo Single Malt
10 Whiskey 15 ml Martini Rosato 30 ml D.O.M Benedictine Liqueur
15 ml Cointreau 80 ml Sweet Berry Tea
20 ml Pineapple Juice
1 Bar Spoon of Grenadine Syrup
2 Dash of Fee Brothers Plum Bitter
Now add ice into the shaker and shake
well! Add 2 ice cubes into the old-fashioned glass and cut 3 pieces of fresh
paprika into the glass. Then strain the
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Muddle two pineapple
chunks (approx 1sq in.)
with a pinch of salt. Add
all ingredients, shake and
double strain into an iced
Collins glass. Top with
1oz club soda, lightly stir,
and add garnish.”
Good news
for Connoisseurs
This autumn you have the possibility to buy rare bottles at
Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with
Stockholms Auktionsverk at magasin5.auktionsverket.se.
Auctions this autumn:
6 – 8 oktober at 10 am
10 – 12 november at 10 am
8 – 9 december at 10 am
11 december at 10 am
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part
2:
JEREZ-XÉRÈS- SHERRY Y MANZANILLA-SANLÚCAR
DE BARRAMEDA 3 PIECE
albariza wineyard
sherry wine foundations,
pre-conditions and
potential
Text and photo: Susanne Berglund Krantz
Punkvin takes the long way round to Jerez to avoid having to drive from Malaga and thus
landing in Jerez de la Frontera, where we´ll be picked up by our taxi driver who will drive
us between towns that make up the Sherry Triangle. After checking into our hotel, which is
situated a few meters from the old town we hasten to get out and soak up the atmosphere
and the fino before Tabanco El Pasaje closes for the evening. The month of June’s unusually
cool this year, but Jacaranda trees are still blooming and the rolling fields outside the city
are alight with yellow sunflowers which rotate to follow the light which is one of Andalusia’s
absolute best characteristics.
GEOGRAPHY
The Wine region is located to the
west of the Andalusia autonomy
in southern Spain, right next to
the Atlantic Ocean. Important
rivers include the Guadalquivir
and Guadalete. The landscape is
undulating with alternating vineyards sometimes with sunflower
plantations in the more mountainous part which is further inland.
A BRIEF HISTORY
Wine was planted here in the
area by Phoenicians traders about
1100 BC. These people founded
the city of Gades, which today is
called Cadiz and Xera, today Jerez
de la Frontera. The Phoenicians
also brought with them the art of
cultivating and producing wine,
which was then exported to oth-
>>>
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er countries, especially to Rome.
However, we don´t know which
grape they used and whether they
were green or blue. The Greeks
and the Carthaginians followed
the Phoenicians in and developed
the art of cultivation further. The
advent of the Romans meant that
the city Xera was renamed Ceret,
and the wine produced there was
named Vinum Ceretensis. The
new fermernted essence is boiled
down to withstand the long journey to Rome, which resulted in a
high concentration of alcohol and
the reason why they needed to
dilute the wine with water before
they could drink it. From the year
711 the Moors occupied Spain
and took over the government in
Jerez region for more than 500
years. The traces of them are clear
to see even to this day, beautiful, lavish buildings and palaces.
Ceret changed now to Sherish.
Despite the religion’s prohibition
the production of alcohol continued, which resulted in wineries producing raisins and distilled
wine for medical purposes (the
Arabs brought the art of distilla-
tion from China to Andalusia).
Another likely reason is that most
of the vineyards were composed
of Muslims who were so far from
home that they didn´t care about
the ban on spirits and alcohol. In
1264 they conquered the Chris
tian region of King
Alfonso X
who was himself a wine cultivator
and had personal interest in the
vineyards and its management.
Sherish changed its name again,
this time to Xérès de la Frontera
and worked as a border to the
Castilian monarchy. By this time
the interest in wine began to grow
in earnest in England, where it became known as “Sherish”. Gradually exchange trading grew with
wine for English wool. England
is still the most important market
for Sherry. The Sherry of today
is the result of a 1700th century
law banning the storage of wines
which forced producers to sell
and export everything they had in
stock. To make these young wines
stable enough to cope with the
long trek spirit was added. When
this law was abandoned in the early 1800s fortification became an
oenological tool in the production
of wine... The need for constant
quality was the origin of Sherry´s
special blending and storage system, Solera. 1933 founded Spain’s
first DO and Regulatory Council
through the appellation Jerez.
CLIMATE
The climate of the area is influenced by both Mediterraneanand Atlantic breezes; Levante and
Poniente. Even southerly winds
from Africa can sometimes affect
the temperatures. However the
moist and cool Atlantic winds
allow possibilities to the winery.
The overall climate means mild
winters and warm to hot summers
where temperatures can easily rise
to 40 degrees, and it is therefore
the cool westerly wind which also
provides moisture is crucial for
wine..
GRAPES
The depredations of the wine
louse in the area means very careful selection of today’s grape varieties when they re-planted exterminated wineries. The main grape
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palominograpes
varieties are the Palomino Fino,
which is mainly the basis of all styles
of dry Sherry. The grape has a thin
skin, is medium in size and hangs
in large clusters. The other varieties
are Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel
which are used in naturally sweet
wines and in some cases commercially sweeten blended wines.
Viticulture
The 10500 hectares of are located in Cádiz province. The three
towns that comprise the “sherry
triangle”; Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto
de Santa Maria frame a territory
known as Jerez Superior which includes the best vineyards (Pagos),
classified according to different
factors such as soil type, altitude,
exposure, winds and proximity to
the sea. Albariza, the white, rich
in chalk soil is poor in nutrients
and porous. The surface hardens
and retains rainwater, keeping the
soil moist, which is much needed
during March to October when it
is very dry. The soil is perfect for
the Palomino grape in wineries
where you´d be astounded by the
groaning branches carrying big
bunches of grapes with an average of 7-9 clusters per rank vine,
weighing about 3 kg and yielding
a harvest of 80-90 hectoliters per
hectare, when you consider that
in quality growing you tend to
focus upon the opposite. But the
goal here is not concentration but
a neutral wine in the first phase.
The density is 3000 vines per
hectare is cropped in accordance
with y Pulgar, which resemble a
simple Guyot. The harvest takes
place from late August until well
into September and s performed
mostly by hand, but mechanized
maintenance and harvesting also
occurs. The Palomino grape requires rapid delivery to the winery
so that oxidation cannot destroys
the essence, while the other two
varieties are placed lay out on
straw mats in the sun to dry and
to concentrate the sugars.
Vinification
After first pressing 70 liters of essence from 100 kg of grapes is allowed to ferment in steel tanks or
in sherry casks, cured, to a neutral
wine with low alcohol content.
The second pressing is often used
in vinegar production, Vinagre de
Jerez, while a third may be used
for distillation, which is then reused in the fortification process.
In late November, it’s time for
the first classification, as wine is
now clarified and covered with a
blanket of yeast, called flor. Cellar master, Capataz, now has to
decide the future of the wine
through systematically tasting.
The most elegant and palest wines
are to be classified as Fino, which
will mean biological aging under
flor and fortification up to 15%.
While the fuller, more robust,
will undergo an oxidative storage
called Oloroso and be fortified
sup to 17%, which is too high an
alcohol content for the flor to survive. Then the wine is transferred
to 600-liter American oak sherry
casks to be cured, which is the first
step in the storage process, where
the wine rests for 6-8 months.
This period is called Sobretablas.
Flor consisting of a large number
of different strains of yeast, has an
important effect upon the wines
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10
stored beneath its surface and need
the correct temperature, moisture,
oxygen, alcohol and glycerin to
survive. The wines will be crackling dry and protected against
oxidation (flor consumes glycerin
and oxygen), and will attain a special character caused by amongst
other things acetaldehyde which
develops therefrom. Flor also gives
the Bodegas individual character.
After Sobretablas it’s time for storing the sherry, which takes place in
a mixing system called Solera. The
Solera system consists of a number
of barrels placed in rows on top of
each other, all of them containing
wines of different ages. The new
wine is then poured into the cask
containing the youngest wine,
Anada, is when before bottling,
you drain off some of the Solerabarrel closest to the floor, which
contains the oldest wine, which
is replaced by the same amount
from the second oldest wine in the
next criadera and so on all the way
up to the top . Each has its own
wine style solera system of black
painted American, old oak barrels
resting in the beautiful, dark bodegas, with their high vaulted ceilings like cathedrals and resting in
total tranquility.
STYLES
From the two basic types Fino
and Oloroso, more styles evolve
depending upon how they are
stored.
DRY STYLES
Fino - stored under flor has a pale
color; an elegant and strident flavor with an alcohol content of
between 15 and 17%. Perfect for
most dishes where a dry wine is
required, but primarily as an aperitif, like a firm cheese, almonds,
green olives and elegant entrees
of fish and seafood naturally. Tio
Pepe Gonzalez Article No. 8225,
37.5 cl, Sek: 54 Swedish crowns.
Manzanilla - a Fino aging under
flor in the port city of Sanlúcar de
Barrameda, where the climate allows the yeast quilt be thick and
vibrant all year round which lends
the wine a pale color, super elegant and strident taste, mineral
rich dwell in taste and an alcohol
content of between 15 and 17%.
Available in two styles; fine and
passada, the latter is more concentrated and intense due to longer
storage. Matches excellently the
same dishes as above. Doña Alicia,
Bodegas Barbadillo, No. 8203,
37.5 cl, Sek: 45:- Swedish crowns
Amontillado - first stored under
flor which later is naturally dissipated either through age or fortifi-
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11
cation and therefore stored oxidative. The wine has amber like appearance, a stylish and nutty flavor
with a long, intense aftertaste and
alcohol content of between 16
and 22%. The accompaniment to
soups, for example, of mushroom
or olive. Amontillado Los Arcos,
Lustau, No. 8227, SEK 82;.Swedish crowns.
tation early, it then fortified and
stored in its own solerasystem. An
opaque almost black appearance,
full-bodied, very sweet with currents and raisin like characteristic,
with alcohol content of between 15
and 22%. High viscosity with sugar content between 400 and 500
grams. It is a dessert in itself, or perhaps to dribble over an ice cream.
Oloroso - stored oxidative and is
- from sun-dried
Moscatel / Muscat grapes like PX.
Fortification following a short
fermentation period, followed
by oxidative storage. A dark mahogany color, fruity, aromatic fragrance and very sweet, fruity taste.
Sugar content between 400 and
500 grams and alcohol up 15 to
22%. Lovely with desserts which
contain dried or fresh fruit.
Palo Cortado – an exceptionally
In addition to these two sweet
types there are blended wines
such as Pale Cream, Medium, and
Cream which are sweetened with
concentrated grape juice. VOS Vinum Optimum signatum / Very
Old Sherry, represents an average
storage of 20 years. Vors - Vinum
Optimum Rare signatum / Very
Old Rare Sherry, has an average
age of 30 years. Anada - vintage
sherry which is very rare.
mahogany in color, with a deep,
round aroma, mellow, nutty flavor with hints of dried fruit. The
aftertaste is very long and the alcohol content lies between 17 and
22%. Goes well with dishes like
red meat or wild game, stews and
matured cheese. Oloroso Cuco,
Bodegas Barbadillo, No. 8239,
37.5 cl, 79 Swedish crowns
rare wine produced by a long, oxidative storage process of biological aging under flor as Fino. Today
most often considered being the
most elegant of the Finos.. Palo
Cortado has mahogany color, and
according to the rules should possess a scent reminiscent of Amontillado and Oloroso in taste.
Usually, the wine is very complex
and elegant despite its rich taste.
The alcohol content is between
17 and 22%. It combines happily with firm cheeses or elegant
game dishes with creamy accessories. Palo Cortado Solera Reserva
Península, Lustau, No. 8233,
179:- Swedish crowns.
Naturally sweet wines
Pedro Ximénez / PX - Pedro
Ximénezdruvor is dried in the sun
and therewith has a high concentrated sugar content. The essence
is so sugary it stops the fermen-
Moscatel
The region also produces wine
distillate Brandy de Jerez, where
the spirit is usually imported from
La Mancha and distilled with the
neutral Airen grape after which it
is stored in Jerez in his own solera system and Vinagre de Jerez
vinegar which is also stored in the
solera and has a fantastic intense
and flavorful character.
…To be continued. When
PunkVin visits Bodegas in the
three cities.
12
13
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WITH FOCUS UPON IMPORTERS
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Regardless of whether you are seeking staff or
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Over the years we have contributed
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Part of their success is of course the personnel.
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Producers, Wine & Spirits importers / HoReCa & Food operatives.
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You can always just contact us. Or let us contact you, email or text me
and we will get back to you immediately.
www.sikta.se
Andreas Flyckt [email protected]
+46 70-725 48 36 direkttelefon vx +46 8 678 00 00
14
a time for amarone!
Text: Johan Franco Cereceda
Now that autumn is getting under our skin, we´re looking for Veneto on the shelves of the
Systembolaget, the Swedish off-licence chain. There we´ll find almost 400 wines and the
lion’s share of these are Amarone wines ... thank you very much for the powerful northern
Italian wines from northern Italy that still keeps us in check.
Italy´s representation in the Systembolaget is quite dominating. Of
every bottle of wine we buy from
state owned off-licence 25% are
from that country and a large part
of these 392 come from the Veneto.
Now, not everything that comes
from this northern Italian Amarone
wine region is in fact Amarone but
the vast majority is. Consider this
then, that is almost as much wine
as America’s total harvest. Who said
Amarone was out?
It happens sometimes that you
meet Italians in the wine industry
and they look at you accusatively
and remark bitterly. “You only
drink only Amarone in Sweden ...
It´s happened to me in Sicily and
it will happen again.
What is it that makes everyone
love Amarone? Well, it is a power-
ful wine, appealing in its charm,
not very expensive, it´s an all-inclusive wine, a kind of “extra everything.” And then it goes so well
with our autumn cuisine which is
primarily game & poultry. But of
course that is not the whole truth.
- Value, it is what it is all about.
We are looking for three things
with our wine brand, wine style
and not least value for money.
>>>
15
The words come from Pierangelo
Tommasi from the wine company
Tommasi, one of the producers
who has expanded the most and
who see a golden potential in
wines from Veneto.
currently produces. But it´s a wine
to his liking with its lighter character. And after a lunch in his company, the bottle stands next to him,
a Lasse Stefan’s, but this time with
a blank Italian label.
In his cellar he has the world’s largest wine barrel, 33 000 liters and yes; it
is listed in the Guinness Book of Records. Of course, it is filled with wine,
amarone wine
But what´s happening on the Amarone front? We’ve heard about all
the strange variations of red wines
that are trying to imitate this powerful wine, a series of copycats with
names like Amore One, Amarano,
Rimore ... There´s nothing wrong
with the inventiveness when it
comes to the name. But in truth,
there aren´t many other similarities
to a really good Amarone.
- It was a gift we made to ourselves
when we celebrated 110th anniversary.
Tommasi´s main market is Sweden
and it´s not only here that we´re
surprised at just how much amarone wine we consume, you can
here at all over the place.
Sandro Boscaini Masi is very much
aware of this. He is regarded as one
of the staunchest defenders of the
classic Amarone. He is the initiator
of famiglie Dell’Amarone D’Arte, a
coalition of the major wine companies and the families which produce high-quality Amarone.
- You drink more Amarone wine
than we’ve ever done before. I
would never have believed it says
Luigi Righetti of the firm of the
same name.
He has an excellent perspective on
things, with his 90 years, while at
the same time he´s bit skeptical
about strong wines.
- Today when you go to a wedding you will see that people are no home and away. One of the bestlonger drinking. When they leave selling wines in Sweden’s is the
dance band leader Lasse Stefans´s
the bottle is still half full.
But there is a difference between Valpolicella, which Luigi Righetti
- “I find it strange that in such a
strong Amarone market like Sweden, that the monopoly allows the
cheap version which doesn´t have
any of the original Amarone wine
making attributes. To say nothing
of all the distortions of the name,”
he says emphatically.
>>>
16
His crusade has received much attention worldwide, even though it
may have come to nothing. But still
he works tirelessly to produce some
of the area’s finest Amarone wines,
including Masi Riserva Costa Sera.
If on the other hand you swing by
Romano dal Fornos boastful building, we see a producer who goes his
own way and is completely impervious to the controversy surrounding both the infringement upon the
name and the production. He does
this not least by putting a sky-high
price on his wines, close to the corresponding 3000:- Swedish crowns
(approx. 300 euros) the bottle.
- “I cannot afford to drink my own
wine, he says with a wry smile after pulling up in the parking space
outside his castle.
His method is extremely gentle,
Romano dal Forno dries its grapes
with ultra-modern giant fans in
something close to a clinical setting
to avoid botrytis and he is maniacal
fear of oxidation in wine. But the
result is something quite special,
distinct, modern, elegant and very,
very exclusive.
Sandro Boscaini
He is also passionate about something he calls the original wine:
Recioton, this sweet wine is made
from dried grapes but without fermentation.
- This is historical, we mustn´t forget that this wine is actually the father of Amarone.
17
NÄR ETT RUSTIKT OCH KRAFTFULLT
VIN VISAR SITT RÄTTA ANSIKTE*!
*CAP DE RUC BETYDER "ÅSNEHUVUD" PÅ KATALANSKA.
CAP DE RUC KOMMER FRÅN DET LIKA KARGA SOM VACKRA
OMRÅDET MONTSANT, CIRKA TVÅ TIMMAR SÖDER OM BARCELONA.
I LIKHET MED VINERNA FRÅN GRANNREGIONEN PRIORAT ÄR DESS
VINER OFTA SMAKRIKA, KRAFTFULLA OCH FYLLDA MED TONER AV
KÖRSBÄR, PLOMMON, CHOKLAD OCH KRYDDOR.
www.sigva.se
TOPPKLASS
/MISCHA BILLING AFTONBLADET SÖNDAG MARS 2014
CAP DE RUC ÄR ETT URSPRUNGSTYPISKT OCH TYDLIGT EXEMPEL PÅ
VINERNA FRÅN MONTSANT DÄR DET ENDA AVVIKANDE ÄR DET APTITLIGA
PRISET - VILKET OCKSÅ GETT VINET DESS RÄTTA BETYG!
2012
DRUVOR: GRENACH, SYRAH, SAMSÓ • URSPRUNG: MONTSANT, SPANIEN • PRIS:
18
79:-
•
ART.NR: 4280 • VOLYM: 750 ML • 14,5% ALK.
“ Wine of the decade: Lafite 1982 with its First Growth rivals Latour and
Mouton-Rothschild” (credit Hart Davis Hart)
a perfect ten?
Stuart George
It has been a topsy-turvy decade since Fine Wine International was established in 2004. A graph
showing the annual turnover of wine auction houses over the last ten years would look like a
map of the Himalayas, with dramatic peaks and vertiginous falls.
>>>
19
It seemed as though the good times
would never end. But on 15th
September 2008 the party ended.
Lehman Brothers filed for bankruptcy and the credit-crunch began.
The turn of the century boom
could not last forever. Even on hot
summer days, there might be a rain
cloud that can burst at any moment. The global economy is still
fragile. But the fine wine market
remains staggeringly robust, with
record prices frequently achieved.
Chinese whispers
There is no doubt that the most significant change to the international wine
market was the emergence of China
and its bao fa hu (“explosive rich”).
and new collectors tend to stop buying when their cellar is complete.
astonishing. According to the London-based fine wine exchange LivFor wine merchants and other sell- ex, it went from £2,613 in Decemers of luxury goods, Xi Jinping’s ber 1999 to £25,000 by Novem“election” as leader of China in No- ber 2009, an increase of 856.9%.
vember 2012 was arguably more If that rate were maintained until
important than Barack Obama’s re- December 2019, a case of Lafite
election as President of the United 1982 would then be worth nearly
States in the same month. Xi vowed £250,000.
to crackdown on corruption with As of September 2014, Lafite
an “iron fist”. The price of top Bor- 1982’s average auction price was
deaux has subsequently cooled.
£18,073. The supernova inflation
of recent years has ended and the
Lafite of strength
bubble has burst. Overexposure,
Lafite, and particularly its 1982
excessive prices, forgeries and the
vintage, was probably the most
Chinese government’s clampdown
sought-after fine wine in the last
on gift giving have led buyers to
decade. Its price gains have been
look elsewhere. The brightest star
China’s economy grew by an amazing 9.8% in 2005, over twice the
4.3% growth rate forecast for the
world economy by the International Monetary Fund. In a September
2014 report, the global information company IHS predicted that
China would overtake America to
become the world’s biggest economy by 2024.
China and the other Asian economies are producing a massive middle class with enough disposable
income to chuck a chicken in the
pot – and a bottle in the fridge –
whenever it wants to. As an example
of how auction houses have taken
advantage of the decade-long boom,
Acker Merrall & Condit’s premium
has risen from 16% in 2002 to
23.5% in 2014. Most people would
be pleased to have given themselves
a 47% pay rise over that period.
But there is also the risk of flooding what remains a relatively small
market. There is still a lot of stock
in Hong Kong for merchants to sell.
Private cellars are full to bursting
XXXI V
Red Wine: A Chinese-themed auction catalogue for a Hong Kong
sale” (credit: Acker Merrall & Condit)
>>>
20
Old wine in new bottles: Forged labels found in Rudy Kurniawan’s apartment ” (credit FBI)
It’s possible that Burgundy – and
particularly DRC – could follow
As this issue of Fine Wine Interna- the Lafite model: Hugely increased
tional went to press, Sotheby’s had interest and prices, a sudden spike,
announced an auction to be held in and then a collapse back to pre-hype
Hong Kong on 4th October 2014. levels. Short-term speculators please
The centrepiece of the sale is what note. Some wines will continue to
Sotheby’s claimed was “The Most fall in value; others will gain. That is
Valuable Wine Auction Lot Ever the way of the free market.
Offered”: A 114-Bottle Romanée- Genuine fakes
Conti “Superlot” of 19 consecutive The Los Angeles Times of 1st Devintages 1992–2010, with six bot- cember 2006 reported on the gartles per vintage. The estimate was gantuan wine buying activities of
HK$12–20 million / US$1.5–2.5 30-year-old Rudy Kurniawan, an
million / £930,000–£1.5 million. Indonesian-born scion of a hugely
Burgundy’s market supremacy at wealthy Chinese family. Kurniawan
the moment was confirmed by it ac- was allegedly spending more than
counting for over 40% of the total $1 million a month on fine wines
number of lots in the sale and ap- and was the anonymous vendor of
proximately 70% of the value.
New York auction house Acker Mer-
in the current market is Domaine
de la Romanée-Conti.
21
rall & Condit’s two record-breaking
“THE Cellar” sales in 2006
Fast-forward to 2012 and Kurniawan was exposed as possibly the
biggest wine fraudster of them all.
In February 2012 there was huge
controversy about a London wine
sale conducted jointly by Spectrum Wine Auctions and Vanquish
Wines. It was alleged that the consignor of many of the wines was
Kurniawan. Doubts were cast about
several wines and 13 lots were withdrawn after label and capsule discrepancies were pointed out.
For Kurniawan, who used to refer witheringly to traditional merchants as “dusties”, the game was
up. On 8th March, one month
after the London auction, the FBI
arrested Kurniawan in Los Angeles
on five counts. Here, for the first
time, fine wine fraud on an industrial scale had been exposed – not
just a few bottles but hundreds.
In August 2014, Kurniawan was
sentenced to 10 years in a US prison, ordered to forfeit £11.9 million
and pay over £15 million in restitution. The man himself might now
be locked away but, depressingly,
many – hundreds, possibly thousands – of his fakes and forgeries
are still in circulation.
The pressure on “experts”, especially at auction houses, to get it right
first time, every time is greater than
ever. But there is an inherent conflict of interest when an auctioneer
“appraises” a cellar. Because auctioneers rely on consignments for
their livelihood there are always
demands from managers and shareholders to “authenticate” potentially valuable wines.
Unlike in the art and stamp worlds,
there are hardly any completely independent third-party authenticators in the wine industry – there are
too many conflicting interests and
not enough wine to make it viable
as a fulltime occupation.
Being a “wine detective” sounds
like a nice career but, as art and
stamp authenticators would confirm, in such a job you make enemies rather than money.
Back to the futures
Expensive Bordeaux en primeur
campaigns have become normal.
The 2005 campaign was the most
expensive ever, 2009 and 2010
ditto, and 2011 not discounted
enough vis-à-vis the previous two
(and far superior) vintages. Un-
derwhelming wines were made
in 2012 and 2013 but prices remained high. There are better and
less expensive vintages available
than 2013. Surely the system is becoming unsustainable?
down for the second year in succession. Prices have remained firm
though volumes have fallen. The
secondary market can expect a fillip from the now-bottled 2009s
and 2010s.
And yet the world, or at least parts
of it, keeps getting richer. According to Forbes magazine, 20 years
ago there were 140 billionaires
worldwide: In 2006, that number
had risen to 793, 23 of whom were
based in London. By 2014 there
were 72 billionaires in London.
There are more rich people than
ever. Somebody bought a copy of
Superman’s “Action Comics No.
1” for $3.2 million on eBay in August 2014. Transfer fees spent by
English Premier League clubs in
the same month was a record £835
million.
History shows that wine prices go
up over the long run, albeit with
many peaks and troughs. This is
like climate, because even wild
fluctuations in the weather (like
the scorching hot summer of 2003
across Europe) will have little effect
on what will happen over a century
or more. So the most sought after
fine wines will continue to increase
in value and Bordeaux will not turn
into the Barossa.
Happy birthday
To celebrate ten years of Fine Wine
International, readers can raise a
glass of outstanding 2004 Barolo or
The long-term fundamentals for Barbaresco. It was also a fine year in
the fine wine market remain un- Spain and Australia.
changed: There is an increasing
Skål!
number of very wealthy people with
an appetite for fine wine, which by
its very nature will always be made
in relatively small quantities. This
is why – and how – owners of top
CHATEAU LAFITE 1982
Bordeaux estates will always sell
AVERAGE AUCTION PRICES 2004–
their wines at what for most peo2014
ple are outrageous prices. Ten years
(12x75cl including premiums)
from now the eye-watering prices
(Source: Liv-ex.com)
of recent en primeur campaigns
September 2004 £4,055
will probably seem like bargains.
Through the looking glass
Much of the work of the wine trade,
like any other business, is about
trying to forecast trends. But in an
industry that is based so much on
weather and on global economic
conditions no outcomes can ever
be guaranteed.
Auction house totals in 2013 were
22
Moderna bubblor
från ett klassiskt
vinhus
Boschendal är en av de äldsta vinproducenterna i Sydafrika
med anor sedan 1685. De magnifika, natursköna ägorna sträcker
sig från den pittoreska Groot Drakenstein Valley, alldeles vid porten
till Franschhoek, till sluttningarna av Simonsberg Mountain.
Boschendal Brut är gjord på druvorna Pinot Noir och Chardonnay.
Vinet har fått sina bubblor genom en andra jäsning på butelj, så
kallad ”méthod classique”, och har legat på jästfällningen i 24
månader. Smaken är torr och frisk med eleganta mineraltoner
och inslag av röda äpplen och citrus.
Boschendal Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay
99 kr, art nr 7889. 13% vol. 750 ml.
Passar till aperitif, bufféer och småplock eller till rätter med
skaldjur, rökt och gravad lax.
Alkohol i samband med arbete
ökar risken för olyckor.
23
www.spendrupsvin.se
martinborough vineyard
– Pioneers with
promising future
The Martinborough Vineyard was one of the first to plant pinot noir in New Zealand. The old
vines which give such elegant wines, still remains. But there are more to come and the level of
ambition will be notched up even further.
We´re heading towards the wine
district of Wairarapa, and the small
town of Martinborough, which is
about an hour’s drive northeast of
the capital Wellington on the North
Island.
its way down to the sea it carved out
the mountain and left huge deposits
after it. This created what is known
today as “The Escarpment” and
“The Terrace”.
This delta opens up to the sea a few
kilometers to the south of Martinborough and the incoming winds
have crossed open water all the way
from Antarctica, bringing a coolness
“The Terrace” is comprised of up to to an otherwise rather warm area.
The Wine Trail is named after Lake 15 meter deep alluvial deposits in the For wine, the large temperature varWairarapa near Masterton in the form of gravel, sand and clay, which iations between day and night and
northern part of the state. The lake’s makes “The Terrace” extremely well the south wind has a dampening efMaori name means “sparkling wa- drained. On the top there is also a fect on the heat.
ter.” Approximately 20,000 years layer of mud and wind-driven loess, a Derek Milne was a geologist and
ago a great river ran through here. loosely compacted yellowish-gray de- in the 1970s he was commissioned
It was the Ruamahanga River, on posit of sediment from adjacent ridges. by the Department of Agriculture
>>>
24
throughout New Zealand, to map
the areas that would be suitable to
plant pinot noir grapes. A mammoth task that stretched from
Central Otago in the south to the
Auckland area in the north. The
result was lots of places which are
delivering results today. Pinot Noir
is now New Zealand’s single largest red grape variety which covers
nearly 5,600 acres.
Martinborough Vineyard with its
cellars has and the oldest vines
on the outskirts of the town of
Martinborough approximately an
hour’s drive north-east of Wellington.
One region, however, stood out
where many of the conditions were
compatible with cultivating the
Pinot Noir in the northern hemisphere and that region is Martinborough.
So inspired by these findings and
the fantastic conditions prevailing
in Martinborough persuded Derek,
his brother, Duncan, and sister in
law Claire Campbell to invest in a
vineyard in Martinborough.
In what is known as “the Home
Block” planted with pinot noir,
chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon
blanc and a little gewürztraminer.
The first vintage was harvested in
1984 and it makes the Martinborough Vineyard one of New Zealand’s absolute pioneers of modern
Pinot Noir cultivation.
The trio Milne mainly took care of
Bill Foley created Foley Family Vineyards 1996 The latest addition is Martinborough Vineyards in July in 2014.
everything themselves up till 1986
when they took a very talented
winemaker “on board”, Larry McKenna. For many years, Larry McKenna pushed the development
in Martinborough by leaps and
bounds. The wines reaped great
success and development in both
the vineyards and the cellars. were
intensified.
Larry McKenna then started his
25
own business and was replaced first
by Claire Mulholland and later by
Paul Mason who are the winemakers today.
The vineyards is situated on the
edge of and just south of the town
of Martinborough and has grown
into approximately 80 acres.
The Martinborough Vineyard has
long applied the strict rules of sus-
>>>
tainable wine production as part of
the “New Zealand Sustainable Winemaking” policy and for the last five
years, parts of the area has been under
conversion to organic production.
The Martinborough Vineyards have
always ranked high amongst New
Zealand wine producers. Matthew
Jukes and Tyson Stelzer categorize
all producers for their performances
over a rolling five year period. The
Martinborough Vineyard has four
out of a possible five stars.
The future is even more promising
for the pioneering Martinborough
Vineyard when in July of this year
they became part of the Foley Family Vineyards.
beautiful wine, if I may say, comes
from a complex selection and vinification process rounding off with 20
months in a cask followed by a further 20 months in the bottle before
The takeover has led to an extensive release. There is a soft and elegant
investment plan for the Martinbor- chardonnay, as well as the vineyard
selected, Manu Vineyard, semi-dry
ough Vineyards on all fronts.
Riesling. A pinot noir and pinot gris
What about the wines then? Gone in the Burnt Spur series.
are the gewürztraminern but
they´ve been replaced with pinot For Sweden, the three wines are
gris. The top wine is Marie Zelie Re- imported by Dala Wines & Spirits.
serve Pinot Noir which is only made They are dry, vital and little “Eurowith the correspondingly appropri- pean” 74110 Jackson Block Riesling
ate vintage yield. The wines takes 2012 for 171:- Swedish Crowns. It
its name from a woman who made comes from two hectares from the
grew small amounts of pinot noir old vineyard which has dedicated
in the neighborhood already back this dry riesling. 74681 Te Tera
in the 1800s. A very complex and Pinot Noir 2012 for 201:- SwedFoley Family Vineyards owns several wineries in California, Oregon
and Washington, but for some time
it has also had extensive holdings,
about 440 acres, in Marlborough.
>>>
The earth’s sedimentary remains
of Ruamahanga River which passed
here 20,000 years ago.
Martinborough Vineyard´s wines age with elegance and grace.
26
Paul Mason the winemaker at Martinborough Vineyard.
ish crowns and come in part from
a few blocks just south of Martinborough and the old winery. A delicious fruity wine from fully stalked
grapes which have remained in the
lees for 20 days before the ninemonths storage in casks and malolactic fermentation. The third wine,
74679 Martinborough Vineyard
Pinot Noir 2010 for 351:- Swedish
crowns comes from the old vines
on “The Terrace”. Before the yield
is accepted all damaged fruit and
windfall that is not up to scratch is
abandoned according to the principle “what you pick is what you
get.” Despite this policy all the fruit
still has to pass over a sorting table
27
for a double check track. After cold
macceration the essence left with
the skins for 21 days before being
moved to the French casks of mixed
ages for the following 12 months.
The wine is not filtered or clarified.
The style is not expressive but complex, delicate and elegant with a flatteringly low alcohol content.
“FYNDPRIS
FÖR SÅ MYCKET
KVALITET”
VÄL PRISVÄRT!
”ETT TORRT, FRISKT
MOUSSERANDE VIN
MED UNG FRUKT, BRA
BALANS OCH INSLAG
AV HALLON, ÄPPLE,
CITRUS, BLOMMOR
OCH MINERALER.”
FYND!
DINA VINER
PROFESSIONAL
EDITION
PONGRACZ ROSÉ
12%VOL, 750ML
ART.NR 77260, 129KR
MOUSSERANDE FRÅN SYDAFRIKA
I BESTÄLLNINGSSORTIMENTET.
PONGRACZ BRUT
12%VOL, 750ML
ART.NR 7628, 109KR
MOUSSERANDE FRÅN SYDAFRIKA
www.janake.se
Alkohol i samband med arbete
ökar risken för olyckor.
28
long awaited news
from köpingsbergs
vineyard
TEXT OCH photo: URSULA HELLBERG
After an inspirational stay in Champagne, Carl-Otto Ottergren decided to leave his job at the
bank and focus upon on producing Swedish sparkling wine. The vines were planted on the family property on Köpingsberg´s farm just east of Ystad in the southernmost tip of Sweden. The
site was in a protected position with Baltic Sea acting as the protected mode, with the Baltic Sea
acting as temperature equalizer. The springs and autumns, were perfect. This could become Europe’s new Champagne!
“It was just after the global upheaval in the world of wine had
begun started and vineyards began to move north into Europe,”
he says. Now, nine years later, he
has reached his goal: the launch of
his home-grown and home-made
wine christened “Köpingsberg”.
Carl-Otto´s wine, which is a Blanc
de Blanc, here has employed grape
varieties that are better suited to
the Swedish climate. The composition of the grapes reveal his interest in both France and Germany. Countries which he has visited
several times to find inspiration
and to cultivate contacts.
FOUR WINE IN NEW WINE
“Köpingsberg” contains four different varieties of grape The most
obvious is of course Chardonnay
which Carl-Otto has a very good
eye for, good enough to imagine it
as a solitary grape in a future wine.
Perhaps it might already be with
grapes from this year’s 2014 vintage, which namely is looking very
good.
Carl-Otto Ottergren
>>>
29
Pinot Auxerrois is a popular grape
in sparkling wine from Alsace and
Luxembourg. It is also the grape
that Carl-Otto grows most of.
With just over 0.7 out of the 2.5
hectares growing Pinot Auxerrois.
harsh, if it’s not mature enough,
but when it’s at its best it enhances
the wine with its fine honey tones.
Even fourth variety of grape be-
- This variety of grape is early and
ripens two to three weeks before
the Chardonnay, which is quite
an advantage in these latitudes,”
he adds.
Seyval Blanc, the third grape variety in “Köpingsberg”, is a French
hybrid that is very popular in
cooler climates like England and
the northeastern United States.
It is suitable for sparkling wine.
Unfortunately, the grape is a little
Carl-Otto Ottergren
longs hybrids. It is called the Orion, it is very hardy, and of German origin.
The results of the four varieties
of “Köpingsberg” from 2010 is a
wine with fine effervescence s, aromatic scent with hints of honey.
The taste is dry and more balanced
than the aroma. You can also find
a comfortable tartness with a fine
acidity. Sugar content is between
7 and 8 grams. As late as August
Carl-Otto disgorged this wine. In
the first instance “Köpingsberg”
will be sold to the Systembolaget
(The Swedish state owned offlicence chain, but Carl-Otto Ottergren also wants to get into the
restaurant market. However, it´s a
>>>
30
one day at a time project. Patience
is namely something he’s learned
over the years as a winemaker.
As recently as last summer, he
suffered a real setback when .the
freshly printed wine labels that
he´d painstakingly pasted onto
4,000 bottles were not “wine
cooler safe” as promised. This led
to the launch of “Köpingsberg”
delayed by a few months. Though
for those who have waited nine
years, a few extra months is neither here nor there...
WINE AND WATER - AND
VINEGAR
- “When I started the trend was
that everyone should make red
wine. Now, instead it´s the green
Solaris grapes that Solaris that are
applicable. The first varieties I was
advised to plant were not quite
right. Today, I would never have
made these decisions. For example
31
it is doubtful that I would have
planted the Rondo. For the future I believe more in Pinot Noir
and the classic grape varieties. I´m
not into the hybrids anymore,” he
says.
But genuine grapes (Vitis vinifera)
are not always the right choice.
The Ortega grape is an example of
this. The grape can easily attain a
spicy taste during the summer if´s
been too chilly… Carl-Otto was
not particularly discouraged but
decided to make the wine vinegar
instead of just ditching the grapes.
The result is a vinegar which is the
first Sweden’s vinegar produced
from Swedish grown grapes. The
vinegar will be stored two years in
oak barrels before it will be sold.
- It is the same grape as the vinegar
producer Doktoren hof Palatinate
use,” says Carl-Otto with some
pride.
During his years as a winemaker, Carl-Otto has recently noticed a slowdown of new vintners
compared to five years ago. That,
amongst other things, he believes is
directly related to the ban on yard
sales and harsh summers, weather
wise.
- 2012 was a terrible summer which
discouraged many, he says.
AUTHORITIES biggest threat
But it´s not the difficulty of the
choice of grape varieties, or the
climate or lack of experience, says
Carl-Otto.
- “The greatest threat to viticulture,
is the authorities,” says Carl-Otto.
He doesn´t mince words when he
says that he thinks its crazy all the
demands that put upon the growers. Yard sales are not permitted,
and of course he believes this to be
completely wrong:
of hindsight, he answers:
wine “Köpingsberg” will be out in
- “It was a rougher ride than I im- the Systembolagets off-licence. On
agined. Today I would probably the new labels can be read “From
have been a little more hesitant, each grape a few drops of love.”
That is completely true, without his
but I don´t regret it!”
love of the region, the grapes and
Carl-Otto is optimistic about the the work with wine he wouldn´t
future and has even expanded the have succeeded.
cultivation of newly planted vines
Asked if he would have gone into 10 meters above the original vinethe wine business with the benefit yard. In November, his sparkling
- “Like many Swedish vintners will
I rather spend my time selling other products and hold tastings with
my French crémant wines from
Burgundy. But isn´t it a wonder
that I´m allowed to sell champagne
sabres without restrictions, but not
the smallest bottle of wine!
32
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Haut-Brion, Château L'Evangile, Château Calon-Ségur, Château Chasse-Spleen, Château
Cheval Blanc, Domaine Comte de Vogüé, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine J.F
Mugnier, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Domaine Lamarche, Domaine de Montille, Domaine
Anne Gros, Château Cos d'Estournel, Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Château Musar, Opus One, Sine
Qua Non, Kutch, Château Gruaud-Larose, Château Latour, Château Lynch-Bages, Château
Margaux, Château Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande, Domaine Pierre Damoy,
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Nicolas Potel, Denis Bachelet, Lucien Le Moine, Domaine
Ramonet, Faiveley, Domaine Château de La Tour, Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot,
Domaine Albert Morot, Domaine J.F Mugnier, Didier Dagueneau, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia,
Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, CVNE, Alejandro Fernández, Domaine Bruno Clair, Domaine Humbert
Frères, Château La Conseillante, Château La Lagune, Château Langoa-Barton, Château
Léoville-Barton, Château Palmer, Château Cheval Blanc, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou,
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Château Lagrange, Château Lanessan, Château Montrose
Château Sigognac, Château Troplong-Mondot, Château Beychevelle, D
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Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury, Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier, Domaine Robert
Arnoux, Domaine Jean Tardy et Fils, Domaine Drouhin-Larose, Domaine Méo-Camuzet,
Domaine Bernard Dugat Py, Domaine Denis Mortet, Domaine Henri Gouges, Domaine
Robert Chevillon, Camus Père & Fils, Domaine Joseph Roty, Lucien Le Moine, Château
Branaire Ducru, Château Cos d'Estournel, Château Duhart-Milon, Château Marquis
d'Alesme Becker, Château Canon-La-Gaffelière, Château Clerc-Milon, Château
Ducru-Beaucaillou, Château L'Evangile, Château Magdelaine, Château Pétrus, Château
Potensac, Château Trotanoy, Château Angélus, Le Pin, Château Ausone, Domaine Pierre
Guillemot, Domaine Comte de Vogüé, Leflaive et Associés, Domaine des Lambrays,
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, Frédéric Esmonin, Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot, Domaine
Armand Rousseau, Domaine Vaudoisey, Château de Beaucastel, Domaine de la Janasse
Alkohol är
beroendeframkallande
33
34
border trade – knows
no boundaries!
Text o photo: Christopher Jarnvall
Lunchtime in Puttgarden one Thursday in early September. The sun shines on a mirror like
Öresund sound between Denmark and Germany. There are lots of people out enjoying the
late summer day by the seaside, or? Not at all! Most of them are heading straight for the “border shop” to stock up - alcohol, cigarettes, candy ... but mostly alcohol. Just in front of us is
one of the daily busloads of pensioners. These are not tourists from the neighboring Scania
(southern Sweden) No this lot are from further up country, by their dialect they sound like
they´re around Örebro, which are just a couple hundred clicks south of Stockholm. They line
up with their huge shopping carts waiting to gain entrance to the fabled “El Dorado”.
This is big time for real, there are
giant deals being made here in the
“Border Shops.” The German ferry ports are the most frequented
destinations for Swedish travelers.
It is often the only thing they ever
see we of Germany. In Rostock
late on a Friday night a young
couple from central Sweden came
ashore with their van. They nei-
ther spoke neither English nor
German. She understood a kleine
bit! But what the hey, they were
hardly there to see what´s left of
Rostock’s historic center. They
needed a room for the night so
they could return to Sweden with
van full of stuff the next day.
Much to theirs and their friends
and acquaintances delight...
35
OK, perhaps that was an unscientific assumption. I wasn´t so indiscreet as to ask if they intended
to sell their precious cargo. I probably wouldn´t have been given an
honest answer, if that was the case.
It seems that going shopping in
German ferry ports is the delight
of many of our countrymen. But
>>>
hardly a pleasure for the Swedish
government’s inland tax revenue
and the Systembolaget’s ability to
compete.The Systenbolaget is the
Swedish state owned chain of offlicenses. The chances of them being to assert themselves in the shop
in Puttgarden are of course very
slight. A liter of fine 12-year-old
whiskey costs about half of what it
does with the monopoly...
Nowadays, the German trade have
also developed and established Fine
Wine departments, fortified wines,
spirits and beers for the connoisseur. It´s no longer about cheap
plonk and rotgut booze where one
is reluctant visit, not this is fine service and quality.
Last winter one of the shopping
barges broke loose from its moorings and the punters weren´t able
to do any shopping. There was an
outcry from the Swedish travelers
who felt cheated - even though the
visit to Germany might have resulted in something other than just the
border trade...
Swedish studies show that border
trade is unequivocally increasing,
although there are still certain variations. CAN’s surveys - they took
over from SoRAD - points clearly
towards increase. Swedish Brewers,
who for several years have made for Sweden’s economy, significantly
continuous measurements, register better for the environment. And the
the same tendency.
Swedish Treasury is losing hundreds
The Swedish breweries, however, of millions - or even billions, deare doing a roaring trade in the bor- pending on how you count it.
der stores they run down their beer
down to Germany. Then will the
Swedes can buy it at a significantly
lower price than at home. They load
up the car and the stuff right back
to Sweden again. Don´t you think
this is strange? Of course you could
say congratulations to Germany.
But surely it would have been better if we just took a stroll round to
the Systembolaget off-licence then
back home again. It would be better
Fine Wines från Italen!
Se själv på www.wineoclock.se
Att beställa vin från Wine O´clock är helt lagligt och
bekymmersfritt. Sedan juni 2007 kan svenskar beställa vin från utlandet och få det hemlevererat. Svensk
Alkoholskatt och moms är redan inkluderat i priset.
36
The crown, the Swedish currency
is still strong against the euro. The
Swedish alcohol tax has been increased. And besides many people
think it’s nice to take a trip down to
Germany. They fill up their shopping carts. It´s difficult to make
your way through the multitudes
in the Border Shop in Puttgarden
this Thursday lunchtime in September. The commerce is likely to
continue!
74110 Martinborough Vineyard Jackson Block
Riesling 2012, 750 ml, 171 kronor
74681 Martinborough Vineyard TeTera
Pinot Noir 2012, 750 ml, 201 kronor
74679 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir
2010, 750 ml, 351 kronor
www.dalawines.se
Att börja dricka i tidig ålder ökar
risken för alkoholproblem
.
37
the taste of a
dream
by STEFAN JOHANSSON
Drops that bear as much of the scent of passion as much as they do summer rain. The unique
enjoyment for anyone with an open heart and inquisitive mind. When it embraces your taste
buds, you are seduced by the elegance, the purity and the flavors that you never thought
possible to experience.
Taste Purity Vodka. Enjoy it and help rewrite history.
Purity Vodka from the Scania region of southern Sweden represents a paradigm shift. These glittering, complex, flavor-charged
droplets which have been slowly
wrung from the passion, dedication and conviction that the
It is proud, beautiful, a little bit little self-assured and truly personal.
for modern and exciting vodka.
Vodka that is not only in tune
with the times but also allows us a
taste of tomorrow.
Purity Vodka has soul. - It is the
distillation of a dream. A yearning
Purity Vodka is sprung from the
seemingly impossible is indeed
possible.
Vodka-vision
>>>
38
source which overflowed from of
conviction. It is the dream of a
man whose vision made him

look
far beyond the horizon.
His name is Thomas Kuuttanen
and he is the master blender at
Purity Vodka, which is produced
in Ellinge Castle, just south of the
town of Eslöv.
But all ye lovers of life out there ...
he has managed to create a unique
vodka, quite simply because he
had to.
“- I have never been a vodkaperson,” said Thomas Kuuttanen.
I have always felt that vodka was
a superficial spirit more focused
upon image, and marketing. I felt
that it lacked soul. “
Thomas Kuuttanen is 45 years
old and is considered to be one of
the best blenders. He started off
blending aquavits and schnapps,
and then moved on to gin, liqueurs and whiskey within his
family’s business called Symposion. He then worked in Scotland for some 20 years and knows
everything and more about single
malts and blended whiskeys, storage, casks, barrel aromas and flavors which are influenced by time,
climate and atmosphere.
His background is a world where
one is always looking for the pleasure of the taste. Something he
>>>
39
never found in vodka. So he decided to create it. Of course you
will understand that there are easier things to attempt in this world.
But Thomas Kuuttanen has never
shied away from things like that,
on the contrary this been his driving force.
Say “impossible” to this man and
he say, “Aha, exciting.” Increase
the odds of failure to the maximum and he becomes curious. For
Purity Vodka is the drink that was
created out of his own head using
methods that are all his own.
Distilled 34 times
Forget all the old truths and maxims.
Create new.
Purity Vodka is the result of 34
distillations. Yes you read that correctly 34!
The “norm within the vodka industry, is between three and five
distillations.
“- Good spirits don´t do that in a
jiffy,” says Thomas. “It takes time.
It lives a life of its own within our
process and decides itself when
it is ready. We have smelled and
tasted our way forwards, because
it is impossible to determine its
quality and maturity by using
computers and things.”
Purity Vodka is a genuine handicraft. The liquid proof that it is
possible to create something truly
unique in a static, if not conserva-
tive, beverage genre. The uniqueness is accentuated by the package: the exclusive bottle, designed
by Happy F & B in Gothenburg,
which resembles a diamond.
“- It says something about our
vodka. The diamond production,
use the concept as ‘cut’ and ‘purity’, as we do, “said Thomas Kuuttanen.
Vodka Master: “Best in the
World”
Purity Vodka was launched in earnest in 2009 and has already been
honored with 80 awards worldwide. Three years in a row it has
been named the world’s best vodka in Vodka Master. In the current situation, it is in 28 countries
and sales increasing by over 100
>>>
40
percent every year. In the United
States, it has already gained a foothold in 16 states.
Purity has quickly become the connoisseur’s favorite and one just has
to let it wash over the taste buds
now know that it is possible to take
vodka to unbelievable heights. The
amazing taste experience is equally
surprising.
Summer rain
Vodka’s tradition has been controlled the mass production vodka
industry for so long. In most cases
just tasteless spirits. Ingredients
only for shot or cocktails.
Until now.
For Purity. Depends upon the rain.
“- I remember a smell from when I
was little,” says Thomas Kuuttanen.
We were out in the archipelago, in
a rowing boat and fishing. Then
came one of those glorious summer rains.That special smell when
the rain is beating down against salt
water ... oh, what a sweet aroma.
That is the flavor I wanted to recreate in vodka. “
Have you succeeded?
“- Yes. While drinking Purity with
a few drops of water in it a lot of
flavors are released and we get a of licorice and vanilla in the backkind sweet salty inflection.
ground. “
The flavor palette just like the Purity´s balancing act
smell of Purity Vodka is so much Purity Vodka not only balances the
more than just master blender new and unique flavors. It is also
Kuuttanen´s childhood memory.
balanced on the borderline of what
When he describes the spectrum,
he says:
“- It is rich in minerals, not to say it
is mineral-fueled, and pulls a little
towards umami-. It is malty with
hints of lime. There are also tones
prised,” says Thomas Kuutanen.
Purity Vodka is the experiment
which succeeded. The breathtaking
vision that became reality.
“- My ambition was to create a
vodka that is clean, fresh, elegant
is actually allowed to called vodka. and little bready. I want to bring
If it has too character it becomes character, complexity, richness
characterized as too tasty and ends and mouthfeel to it, “says Thomas.
up in a different category.
Then I had to find a way of doing
“Anyone who appreciates good all that. “
food and good wines will be sur-
>>>
41
The whole process starts with the
raw material of course. All vodka in
the world is made from a single ingredient, whether it is wheat, barley, rye or potatoes.
Purity Vodka is made of two.
“- I mix wheat and malted barley.
Had I only used grain the taste
would have been too robust and
heavy. Now I have found the perfect mix, but it has taken time,
“said Thomas Kuuttanen.
The distillation begins in a pot stillthe two “towers” and then continues in the custom-built Kothe-pan.
The first distillate in the Pot Stillp is “cut down,” as they say in the
business. With Purity the cutoff
point is 90 percent of the first distillate.
“- We can say, keeps the heart of
the distillate is left to mature pending more distillation,” said Thomas.
Thomas Kuuttanen says he had
two choices. Distil it in a so-called
pot still, a single pan, the way they
do in Scotland, or use a method
known as fractional distillation,
just almost all of the vodka industry does.
A total of 34 slow distillations,
where a small amount of fractional
distilled liquor are added during the
process. The final distilled vodka is
so pure that it doesn´t need to be
filtered. The distillate is so pure, so
concentrated and, above all, so rich
Distilling in gold
Thomas Kuuttanen sounded out in flavor. The slow, careful and genKothe in Germany; leading opera- tle distillation has brought out both
tors in this field build a distillation the rich aroma and flavor. Even the
pan according to his requirements deionized and mineral-rich water
and secifications. It is built of cop- that eventually added plays a part
per and 24 karat gold, and Thomas in shaping Purity Vodka´s characdescribes it as a kind of combina- ter.
tion of a so-called armagnac-pan “This is our way”
and a Coffey-brow, so called after “I´m often been asked, ‘What can
Aeneas Coffey, the Irishman who possibly be left after 34 distillainvented this first variation of frac- tions?’ As if it is really a waste of
tional distillation.
time. Of course, it takes time and
Thomas chose a bit of both methods, for he knew that for example
that by only using fractional distillation would turn Purity into
just another vodka among many.
And to just distill it in a pan still
wouldn´t be enough to achieve the “Copper and gold are best for con- we can´t mass produce, but this is
required strength before it´s mixed ducting heat,” he says.
the way we do it. We make our 34
with water.
slow distillations and which allows
Winter wheat and Malted barley
42
us to retain flavors which you can´t
after four or five rapid distillations,
“Says Thomas.
When asked how long it will take
Thomas responds that it is:
“An average of two months. It´s
not an exact science, nothing is definite. It’s the vodka that determines
when it is finished. I smell and taste
... and follow its maturing process.
It tells me when it is finished. “
What is your vision, your goals, for
Purity?
“- I have been following my conviction to make the world’s best
vodka,” says Thomas Kuuttanen.
“I want to vodka drinkers will to
graduate to our vodka and don´t
hesitate to try Purity. My ambition
is not to be the biggest but to be
the best. “
This is vodka they it was once
thought to be for more a thousand
years ago in Poland and Russia, in
the first recorded description of the
Swedish liquor distillation in 1349
in Lund, Sweden.
“Pure” is the English word for
genuine and unadulterated. “Purity” means just that.
Purity Vodka fascinating, bewildering with a tempting taste.
Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätet
All världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig.
Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad.
43
the cherry
heering story
Peter F Heering was born in 1792 in Copenhagen,but lost his father
already at the age 3. In October 1806 the fourteen-year-old Peter
drove in a horse drawn stagecoach from Roskilde together with his
mother, to enter into an apprenticeship in Copenhagen with pharmacist who was an acquaintance of the family. He remained with
him for seven years until he was fully trained.
Already by the age of 22, that
was in 1818, he started his own
business by borrowing 2,000
crowns from a friend to begin
making the liqueur which is
known all over the world today
Cherry Heering.
How did he achieve the feat
of creating a supply chain and
global sales of his product in
the early 1800s? Well, by quickly creating confidence in himself by allying himself with sea
captains and mates who, when
sailing to various ports around
the world, used Cherry Heering
to bribe customs officials to get
their goods through customs.
Fairly quickly these officials
so fond of the tasteful liqueur
that they asked Peter to bring
some boxes the next time he
entered the port. This spread
the taste and awareness of Peter
Heering´s Cherry liqueur all
over the world.
To retain more control over the
A cask where Cherry Heering
was stored before bottling 3-5
years later.
business he started his own sales
force and established his own
contacts around the world,
sometimes in collaboration
with vendors who represented
his product in different parts of
the world.
As the business expanded, Peter
realized the value of owning the
ships that distributed his liqueur
over seas. No sooner said than
done he began the construction
of his own fleet.
His first ship was delivered in
1833 and was named “Arnold”.
Finally he came to build 10 custom made ships all of which
An unoppened bottle from 1890 which was
auctioned by Pter F Heering in New York City, the
proceeeds were donated to promote up coming
Bartenders & Designers.
44
>>>
the
PETER F. HEER I NG
Singapore Sling
15 ml Cherry Heering
30 ml Gin
120 ml Pineapple juice
15 ml Lime juice
7,5 ml Cointreau
7,5 ml Dom Benedictine
10 ml Grenadine
A dash of Angostura Bitters
SLING
AWARD
Shake all ingredients with ice and pour
into a sling glass. Garnish with
a fresh pineapple and a fresh cherry.
product Cherry Brandy. It was no
easy task, either then or now. CerOn January 9, 1836 Heering´s tainly could Peter could produce
own ship, the brigantine “Chris- receipts of sales from 1821 with the
tian”, delivered 50 cases of Cherry text “60 bottles of Cherry Brandy
Heering to London and the fol- at 1 crown piece”, and lots of other
lowing year in 1837 the same ship paperwork too, bills of lading and
sailed to America with the very suchlike. But the brand name had
first load of Cherry Heering to be to be researched separately in each
and every country where he did
shipped there.
business.
As far as is known, back in 1830
there was no other bottled spirit Furthermore, there were many othwhich had a worldwide distribu- er stone fruits carrying the name
tion. Already during the middle of Brandy, such as Cherry Brandy,
the nineteenth century, that is, 20 Peach Brandy and Plum Brandy,
years later, Cherry Heering was be- making it difficult to get the exclusive rights for the brand. Peter also
ing distributed to 156 countries!
tried to protect the bottle design,
1867 was a windy year on the which wasn´t so easy either.
high seas. An English ship “The
Bristol” foundered, but luckily Pe- But when you finally set recipes for
ter’s nephew Johan Heering was classic cocktails such as the Singaaround with his ship “The Flink” pore Sling, you know every welland he managed the brave feat of trained bartender knows that the
rescuing “The Bristols” crew from main ingredient is always nothing
drowning. He was decorated later other than Cherry Heering referred.
by Queen Victoria of England.
With such a large distribution and But that is another story which you
sales, Peter quickly realized that it can read more about in the next iswas time to protect the name of his sue of Fine Wine.
became very well known upon the
ocean´s of the world.
45
One of the ships that Peter F
Heering commisioned to be built
Våra medlemmar
Altia Sweden AB
Box 271 44, 115 28 Stockholm
115 28 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8) -557 790 00
Email: [email protected]
Homepage: www.altia.se
Berntson Brands
Torsgatan 13
111 23 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-610 06 90
Fax: +46 (8)-610 06 99
Homepage: www.berntsonbrands.se
Arcus Sweden AB
Birger Jarlsgatan 20
114 34 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8) -545 534 30
Fax +46 (8)-545 534 39
Homepage: www.arcus.no
Bergs Vinhandel
Skalldalsvägen 47
436 52 Hovås
Tel: +46 760002350
Email: marcus@bergsvinhandel.
Homepage: www.bergsvinhandel.se
Concha Y Toro
Birger Jarlsgatan 2
114 34 Stockholm
Tel: +48 (8)- 505 667 60
Fax: +46 (8)- 505 65 299
Homepage: www.cytsweden.se
Bergslagens Destilleri
Pettersbergsvägen 2A
703 69 Örebro
Tel: +46 733 189 000
Homepage:
www.bergslagensdestilleri.se
DIAGEO SWEDEN AB
St Eriksgatan 46A
Box 49 159
1oo 29 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-508 820 00
Fax: +46 (8)-729 00 49
Homepage: www.diageo.com
Bibendum
Sandhamnsgatan 63
115 28 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-598 110 00
Homepage: www.bibendum.se
Darom AB Spirits & Liqueurs
Elbegatan 4-6
211 20 Malmö
Tel: +46 (40) 782 50
Homepage: www.darom.se
Arvid Nordquist Vin och Sprithandel
Ekensbergsvägen 117
Box 1285
171 25 Solna
Tel: +46 (8)-799 18 00
Fax: +46 (8)-29 60 99
Homepage: www.arvid-nordquist.se
Bacardi AB
Wallingatan 2
111 60 Stockholm
Tel: 0+46 (8) - 566 480 00
E:mail: [email protected],
Homepage: www.bacardi.se
Backafallsbyn AB/ Spirits of Hven
Norreborgsvägen 55
260 13 Sankt Ibb
Tel: +46 (418) 44 99 99
Homepage: www.backafallsbyn.se,
www.hven.se
Bornicon & Salming AB
Holländargatan 17
111 60 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-32 02 20
Fax: +46 (8)-32 02 10
Homepage: www.bornicon-salming.se
Box Destilleri AB
Box Kraftverk 140
1872 96 Bjärtrå
Tel: +46 (70)552 78 28
Homepage: www.boxwhisky.se
46
Carovin AB
Box 24 005
104 50 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8)-505 515 00
Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96
Homepage: www.carovin.se
Domaine Wines & Spirits AB
Holländargatan 20
111 60 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-20 61 00
Homepage: www.domaine.se
Edrington Sweden AB
Luntmakargtan 45
102 47 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-440 83 00
Fax: +46 (8)-20 87 80
Homepage: www.edrington.se
>>>
Fondberg Sweden
Linnégatan 87D
115 23 Stockholm Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 555 292 00
Homepage: www.fondberg.se
Giertz Vinimport AB
Blasieholmen 4A
111 48 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-21 83 88
Fax: +46 (8)-21 33 82
Homepage: www.giertz.se
Granqvist Beverage House AB
Vulcanön, Vulcans Väg 1
522 30 TIDAHOLM
Tel: +46 (502)-148 88
Fax: +46 (502)-158 88
Homepage: www.granqvistbev.se
Handpicked wines
Prinz väg 19
142 66 Trångsund
Tel: +46 (8)-510 691 00
Homepage:
www.handpickedwines.se
Heba Food and Beverages AB
Box 142
372 22 Ronneby
Tel: +46 (457)-240 85
Fax: +46(457)-206 20
Homepage: www.heba.se
Heering
Regeringsgatan 111
Box 73 27, 103 90, Stockholm
Tel: +(8) 412 60 40
Homepage: www.heering.com
Henkell & Co
Hangövägen 29, positionen 4
115 42 Stockholm
Tel: +(8) 120 90 400
Homepage: www.henkell-sverige.se
Hermansson & Co
Sturegatan 6
Tel: +46 (8)-587 410 80
Fax: +46 (8)-587 410 89
Homepage: www.hermanssonco.se
Juvinum AB
Frihamnen, Magasin 6, uppg 2, 4 tr
115 56 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-663 18 81
Fax: +46 (8)-663 18 83
Kanon AB
Sågkärrsvägen 20
647 51 Åkers Stycke bruk
Tel: 0159-800 300
E-post: [email protected]
Hemsida:
www.gripsholmdistillery.com
Kiviks Musteri AB
Karakås
277 35 Kivik
Tel: +46 (414) - 719 00
Email:[email protected]
Homepage: www.akessonvin.se,
www.kiviksmusteri.se
LO Smith
Fabriksgatan 5
533 33 Götene
Tel: +46 (0)- 511 733 200
Email:[email protected]
Homepage: www.losmith.se
Mackmyra Svensk Whisky
Maria Bangata 4A
118 63 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-5560 25 80
Homepage: www.mackmyra.se
Malmköpings Nya Spritbolag
Landsvägsgatan 3
642 60 Malmköping
Tel: +46 157 201 90
Homepage: www.malmasb.se
Miguel Torres Sverige AB
Kungsgatan 87
112 27 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-545 833 91
Homepage: www.torres.se
Modern Wines AB
Linnegatan 87 D
Box 27225
102 53 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8)-10 33 66
Homepage: www.modernwines.se
Mondowines
Frihamnsgatan 30, Magasin 3
115 56 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 665 32 30
Homepage:
www.primewinegroup.com
NO1 Brands
Dalhemsvägen 2
451 55 Uddevalla
Tel + 46 (521)-449 40
Fax +46 (522)-321 10
Homepage: www.no1.se
NIGAB
Energigatan 12
Box 10296, 434 23 Kungsbacka
Tel: +46 (300)-180 20
Fax: +46 (300)-121 53
Homepage: www.nigab.se
Norrtelje Bränneri
Lohärads Söderby
PL 104 77
761 72 Norrtelje
Tel: + 46(176) 22 71 30
Homepage: www.norrteljebrenneri.se
Oenoforos AB
Tel +46 (8)-651 09 95
Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96
Homepage: www.oenoforos.se
>>>
47
Oenoforos AB
Box 24 005
104 50 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8)-651 09 95
Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96
Homepage: www.oenoforos.se
Pernod Ricard Sweden AB
Årstaängsvägen 19A
117 97 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-744 70 00
Email:
[email protected]
Homepage:
www.pernod-ricard-sweden.com
PhilipsonSöderberg
Sandhamnsgatan 62
115 28 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 598 112 00
Homepage:
www.philipsonsoderberg.se
Prime Wine Sweden
Frihamnsgatan 30, Magasin 3
115 56 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-679 52 00
Fax: +46 (8)-679 52 13
Homepage: www.primewine.se
Purity Vodka AB
Kansligatan 1B
211 22 Malmö
Tel: +46 (40) 20 47 60
Homepage: www.purityvodka.com
The Absolute company
Årsta Ängsväg 19 A
117 97 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 744 73 53
Homepage: www.absolut.com
Saturnus AB
Bronsyxegatan 11
Box 9040, 200 39 Malmö
Tel: +46 (40)-671 19 00
Fax: +46 (40)-671 19 39
Homepage: www.saturnus.se
Treasury Wine Estate
Birger Jarlsgatan 55
111 45 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 696 96 00
Homepage: www.twegolbal.com
Stellan Kramer AB
Svärdsvägen 19
183 33 Danderyd
Tel: +46 (8)-544 905 90
Fax: +46 (8)-544 905 99
Homepage: www.stellankramer.se
Spendrups Vin
Vårby Allé 39
143 40 Vårby
Tel: +46 (8)- 672 77 00
Homepage: www.spendrup.se
Spirits of Gold AB
Box 7350, 103 90 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8) 660 32 10
Homepage: www.spiritsofgold.com
VinUnic AB
Regeringsgatan 109
Box 7471, 114 44 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-660 84 15
Fax: +46 (8)-660 84 53
Homepage: www.vinunic.se
Wineworks AB
Malmgårdsvägen 63
Tel: +46 (8)- 55 1108 26
Homepage: www.wineworks.se
Åbro Wines
AB Åbro Bryggeri
593 86 Vimmerby
Mobile +46 (0)70 690 66 35
Homepage: www.åbro.se
DINING
&DESIG
june 2014
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48
SPIRITS
C O L L E C T A B L E
I N V E S T M E N T S
SPIRITS
the story of
bache
gabrielsen cognac
C O L L E C TA B L E I N V E S T M E N T S
Once upon a time there was a lieutenant whose name was Thomas Bache-Gabrielsen who
went in search of success and happiness and traveled to Cognac.
He was not totally unprepared, however, because he was born into a Norwegian family of
merchants trading in spirits since the late 1800s.
As it so often is, he met a fellow countryman from Ås
in Akershus near Oslo. He made Thomas his business
partner and together they took over Edmund A. Dupuy in the year 1905.
Thomas was already established in the Cocnac region
when inevitably he met a “princess” and won half the
kingdom into the bargain. That is, he became a sonin law to a wine grower family with a long history
behind them.
Unfortunately, his partner was killed shortly afterwards in a motorcycle accident. So Thomas had to
continue to run the cognac-business on his own.
>>>
49
F i n e S p i r i t s – C o l l e c ta b l e I n v e s t m e n t s
Today Bache-Gabrielsen is run by Thomas´s grandson Hervé Backe-Gabrielsen who took over the daily
operations of the company from his father Christian
some years ago.
When you visit Backe-Gabrielsen in Cognac through
the grand historic entrance you might be deceived
into thinking that no changes have been made here.
But inside the entire production facility is ultra-modern.
Over the years many awards have been won.
At a panel tasting this year received BACHE-GARBRIELSEN received the HORS D`AGE COGNAC
an OUTSTANDING GOLD MEDAL.
The jury’s assessment was:
“Nose Introduced with oak, honey and some herbal
tones. Followed by vanilla and dark chocolate. Firm,
full particulars into the mouth with immediate flavors of orange, vanilla, prune and ginger. Smooth flow
and texture with great balance between oak and fruit.
Fine, firm, fruity finish. “IWSC 2014
50
In 2013 Bache-Gabrielsen won 4 medals at the Hong
Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition.
Three silver and one gold in addition to the two silver
medals from the IMSC that same year.
Half a lifetime in the cellar
This year Bacche-Garbrielsen is celebrating their cellar
master Jean Philippe Bergier who turned 50 in June.
Since joining the company in 1989 when he was 25
years old, he has spent half of his life in the cellars of
Bache-Gabrielsen. They will celebrate with a special
edition, of a commemorative brandy.
The demands upon an established brandy is always
that the quality must be consistent and top and always
the same from year to year. So one has to be extra
creative in find something to make this special blend
from. In this case, they found a small barrel deep inside the vaults a Vintage 1964 Grand Champagne
Cognac as it turned out, which had been donated by
the family Baudy, who had been a loyal supplier to the
firm for over 100 years. The distillate came from Verriers in the Grandchamp Agen area, which is known
for making the most elegant distillates in the region.
It turned out that this barrel was a gift in connection
with Bache-Gabriel’s 100th anniversary in 2005.
By mixing the Grand Champagne 1954 with a
unique bottle that Jenan-Philippe Bergier created for
his own collection, there are now a number of bottles
of Bache-Gabriel’s Jubilee available for the true lover
of cognac.
Importer in Sweden is Janåke Wine Group AB.
51
daniel boulud in
cooperation with dalmore
When Daniel Boulud wanted to create a whiskey that matched the up market food at Michelin pub Daniel on Manhattan’s Upper East Side in New York, he contacted Dalmore and
Richard Paterson, who jumped at the idea and the two began a collaboration that has now
resulted in a blend of Single malt Scotch Whisky of a very special kind. To create the Boulud look in whiskey, Richard and
Daniel used a blend which consisted of using Muscatel, Madeira and port wine-barrels. The unique flavor
of this new manifestation represents the perfect blend
of the Dalmore house style and thus complements
Daniel Bouluds Fine Dining Experience in New York
City deep in the heart of Manhattan’s Upper East
Side.
This is the first time that Daniel had the opportunity
and the freedom to attend something like this himself
and create a combination of their gastronomic tastes
and theme menus with the perfect single malt. In oth-
er words, A dream that came true.
Richard Paterson as many people know has worked
with many experts in completely different areas during his long career as head blender at Dalmore, but
never before with a successful Michelin chef in New
York.
Anyone who feels tempted to try Dalmores new blend
will have to cough up for a trip to New York, because
that´s the only way you´ll get to lay your hands on
this rarity.
VINBANKEN
52
WebAuction
special
Welcome to the Stockholm
Beverage Auction October 6 to 8!
By: Sören Nylund,
Valuation Manager
Time flies and we´re already facing this season’s second “Fine Wines and
Spirits auction”, which will also mark the 6th year in the series. Directly after
the summer break this season’s first auction started in late August / early
September and we´re now looking forward to the rest of the new season
with new collectibles.
Now, at the time of writing, in the final stages of cataloguing
the October lots which number around the 550 at an estimated value of approximately 2.1 million Swedish Crowns.
There may be some adjustments to this figure but at least it
gives you a good indication. On the first day of the auction,
October 6th , there will be champagne and white wines on
the agenda. Followed by the red wines of Bordeaux on the
7th October. Finally, on October 8th , red wines of other origins , fortified wines and distillates.
The 1996 vintage is represented by numerous lots which the
experts term as extraordinary and sometimes compared to
the historical 1928, the least we can say is that there were
extraordinary circumstances which go to make good quality champagne this year. A long dry summer especially for
the pinot noir, but also the Chardonnay, flourished and
reached full maturity with both high sugar and acid content. 1996 is generally characterized by long-life wines that
need time to show their potential.
The first day of the auction will begin with about 80 lots of
champagne ranging from vintage 1959 to 2006, both single bottles several entire original boxes. Besides the most
common Champagnes from Krug, Salon, Pol Roger, Taittinger and Moet & Chandon this time there will be the more
seldom seen Hamm, Charles Koch, Goulet, Leroux, Lepitre
and others. Bollinger 1996 in whole cases and larger bottles
of Dom Pérignon (jeroboam) format, ie, 3-liter bottle, in its
original wooden box.
The will day end with about 75 lots of both dry and sweet
white wines, mainly Sauternes & Burgundy. Ch d’Yquem, Ch
Suduiraut, Ramonet, Sauzet, Leflaive, Raveneau, Latour and
Gagnard-Delagrange to name but a few.
>>>
53
WebAuction
Day two is dedicated exclusively red wines from Bordeaux.
Almost 200 lots . First up will be a series vintage Ch Mouton
Rothschild, followed by a whole case of Ch Montrose 1975
Ch Margaux 1983 6 liter bottle of “imperialists” and a whole
case of 1997 Ch Pichon Longueville 2000 Troplong Mondot
from the same vintage with 2x6 OWC. Day three, the last day of the auction is red wines of other
origin, fortified wines and distillates which are intermingled
at the starting gate. To borrow a horse racing term. From
Burgundy come the individual La Tâche 1978 and 2009, followed by the complete cases of Mazis Chambertin and Corton. From further south cases of Landonne La Turque 1996
and 1997, and from Spain a couple of complete cases of
Flor de Pingus and from Australia Penfolds Grange in whole
cases from 1998.
Last up is the whiskey of different varieties and origins, both
from extinct and demolished distilleries, but also from fully
active. Young Uigeadail Ardbeg, Port Ellen 1979: First release, Glenfiddich 40, Macallan 1946 and cognac Louis XIII
of millennium celebration edition and an old Japanese Suntory whiskey.
For more information about the beverage auction, and bidding on lots can be obtained through the Systembolaget
(The Swedish state owned off-licence chain) Viewing is available now until the respective auction date October 6 to 8.
Welcome.
54
special
WebAuction
55
special
WebAuction
special
hong kong, 4 october 2014
FINEST & RAREST WINES
SALE HIGHLIGHTS:
Château Lafite 2003 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$70,000 – 95,000 / US$9,000 – 12,000
Château Haut-Brion 2000 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$42,000 – 60,000 / US$5,500 – 7,500
Château Mouton Rothschild 2000 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$90,000 – 130,000 / US$12,000 – 17,000
From The Exceptional Cellar of
James H. Clark
Échezeaux, Henri Jayer 1988 (6 magnums)
Est. HK$330,000 – 500,000 / US$42,500 – 65,000
Est. HK$160,000 – 220,000 / US$20,000 – 27,500
Est. HK$260,000 – 340,000 / US$32,500 – 42,500
Burgundy
Richebourg 1999
Domaine Leroy (2 bottles)
Est. HK$20,000 – 28,000 / US$2,500 – 3,500
Chambertin 2003
Armand Rousseau (6 bottles)
Est. HK$26,000 – 34,000 / US$3,250 – 4,250
Chambolle Musigny, Les Amoureuses 2005
Domaine Georges Roumier (4 bottles)
Est. HK$34,000 – 50,000 / US$4,500 – 6,500
Top-class Bordeaux
Château Pétrus 1989 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$320,000 – 460,000 / US$40,000 – 60,000
Château Margaux 2000 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$70,000 – 110,000 / US$9,000 – 14,000
Château Latour 2003 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$55,000 – 80,000 / US$7,000 – 10,000
>>>
56
WebAuction
Champagne
Dom Pérignon 1990 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$22,000 – 32,000 / US$2,750 – 4,000
Krug, Clos du Mesnil 1992 (6 bottles)
Est. HK$32,000 – 42,000 / US$4,000 – 5,500
Bollinger Grande Année 1990 (12 bottles)
Est. HK$12,000 – 18,000 / US$1,500 – 2,250
Rare Whisky
The Macallan 50 Year Old in Lalique NV (1 bottle)
Est. HK$180,000 – 260,000 / US$22,500 – 30,000
Est. HK$170,000 – 240,000 / US$20,000 – 30,000
Est. HK$200,000 – 280,000 / US$25,000 – 35,000
Est. HK$220,000 – 280,000 / US$27,500 – 35,000
Est. HK$240,000 – 360,000 / US$30,000 – 45,000
California
Screaming Eagle, Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical
from 1992-1999, 2001-2005 & 2007 (14 bottles)
Est. HK$220,000 – 300,000 / US$27,500 – 37,500
57
special
WebAuction
special
Zachys’ Late Fall Auction Features
Zachys is eager to continue the successful fall season
with The Late Fall Auction on October 16, 2014 at Smith &
Wollensky in New York City. In addition to the plethora of
worldly gems on offer, wine collectors searching for historic bottlings from Bordeaux and highly-coveted treasures
from Burgundy should have a keen eye on this sale.
Of specific note are Treasures From The Forbes Collection
(Lots 478-550) and The Private Holdings Of Dr. Aziz Khan
(Lots 583-656). The true wine connoisseur knows the quality and provenance attached to both of these featured cellars. Highlights from The Forbes Collection include three
bottles of Chateau Petrus 1986 and one bottle of Chateau
d’Yquem 1938 (Lots 487 & 513). Exquisite examples of Burgundy from the cellar of Dr. Aziz Khan include Richebourg
Maison Leroy 1949, Chambertin Maison Leroy 1953, and La
Romanee Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin S.A Leroy
1953 (Lots 585-587).
The Late Fall Auction will run in conjunction with the New
York City Wine and Food Festival taking place October 15th19th for which Zachys is the retail and auction partner.
58