Provinois, Bassée, Montois - Tourism in Seine-et
Transcription
Provinois, Bassée, Montois - Tourism in Seine-et
Provinois, Bassée, Montois Seine-et-Marne Visitor’s guide 2 The Provins, Bassée and Montois visitor’s guide Th rich lands of the counts of Champagne, the Provins region’s The ro roads upon which medieval merchants from the four corners of th globe travelled on their way to flourishing fairs, and beautiful the c churches built for pilgrims reveal the history of an extraordinary p province’s golden age. A thousand preserved treasures between Montois and Bassée, from glens to green, fertile plains watered by the Seine, a gentle, kind, generous nature, agricultural riches, character-filled towns, villages, diverse environments and wildlife, will make attentive travellers forget all about stress and fast-paced city life. The people here celebrate the Middle Ages, harvests, antique trains or just the joy of living in harmony with the seasons. Residents enjoy welcoming visitors in search of the Provins, Bassée and Montois regions’ rustic, historic, wild lands, which have b i tourist areas in Seine-et-Marne and Ile-de-France. become one off th the main This guide invites you to explore, breathe, taste and spend a holiday in tune with an authentic, preserved region that has so much to share. Enjoy your trip! Dallying between Brie and Val d’Yerres 2 A beautiful Getaway in wooded Brie and the Aubetin valley 6 Storming the upper town of Provins 10 Roadmap 14 On the trails of Montois and Bassée 16 Strolling through the lower town of Provins 20 A Rustic Escapade in Montois 24 Useful Adresses and Information 28 4 Dallying between Brie and val d’Yerres 3 Return to the towns’ medieval origins or see fascinating felines from the four corners of the world. Take your time, follow your inspiration and explore, with vast horizons as w your only limits. y 1 Dallying between 4 places to see Nangis In the days of Champagne’s medieval trade fairs Nangis was a fortified stop for merchants on their way to Provins. Some stretches of the ramparts from that period are still standing and encircle the heart of the town. The town hall is in the east wing of what’s left of the old Motte-Beauvoir castle, where Napoleon spent a night in 1814. The architectural complex can only hint at the original building’s magnificence! The nearby Cour Emile Zola, which offers a beautiful view of the old ramparts, comes alive during cultural events. In the centre, the Baltard-style grain market has become a daily food market. It is a fine example of the castiron architecture common during the Gilded Age. Syndicat d’Initiatives de Nangis 01 64 01 26 65 The La Salle fortified farm in Grandpuits Grandpuits, another fortified town, stands at the crossroads of several routes used by merchants and pilgrims travelling through Champagne. A characteristic farm is at the gates of the town: the fortified La Salle farm, a listed historic monument. It was fortified in the Middle Ages to keep gangs of looters from stealing harvests and livestock. The building has corner towers, a central courtyard and an intact entrance porch with traces of a drawbridge. The farm has served as a hotel and a hospice, but is now used for its original purpose. Choix Mill in Gastins Jouy Abbey, which owned the surrounding land, had two windmills built south of the village in 1228. One of them disappeared shortly before the French Revolution but the second, Choix Mill, has come down through the centuries. This mill is particular and rare because of its Berton sails, functioning with a cog, dating back to 1845. The sails could be folded and closed depending on need. But the mill is different in another way as well: it is both a tower mill firmly standing on its foundations and a pivoting mill because the roof and sails can rotate with the wind direction. This is the only mill in France that has kept that mechanism. Choix Mill was in operation until 1915. Later it was restored and put back into operation on 10 September 1977. Memories of La Fayette and La Grange Bléneau Castle in Courpalay This 14th-century castle is not open to the public but its beautiful architecture can be glimpsed from the road. It is made up of three wings flanked by five sandstone towers and looks the same as it always has. La Grange Bléneau has a connection with a legendary figure, Lafayette. The famous marquis became involved in military and political life at a very young age. In 1777 he joined the American patriots in their war of independence. His unwavering commitment earned him the American people’s gratitude and a long friendship with Georges Washington. Back in France, Lafayette participated in the French Revolution and continued the struggle for freedom and human rights, but his position in favour of a constitutional monarchy made him unpopular. Declared a traitor to the Nation on 19 August 1792, he fled to the Austrian front, where he taken prisoner. He was freed in 1797 but forbidden to return to France. Lafayette defied the order and moved into La Grange-Bléneau in Brie in 1799. In 34 years, he transformed a lovely family estate into a modern farm. He invented new technical processes (fencing in land), planted new crops (alfalfa in particular) and introduced new livestock breeds. La Grange-Bléneau was also his refuge from political adversity. approximately 30 species, from the best known (tigers, lions, leopards, etc.) to the rarest (clouded leopards, manuls, etc.), the park offers the animals a spacious setting favourable to their growth and reproduction. Four walking trails plunge you into these predators’ natural environments, taking you across the habitats of felines in Africa, Asia, America and Europe! Rozay-en-Brie In a horse-drawn carriage The town of Rozay, another fortified stop for merchants on their way to the Champagne fairs, has kept buildings and legends from its medieval past. People say that its network of underground tunnels may have stretched all the way to Provins. The old quarter has preserved its character as an agricultural trading centre: eight turrets surrounding the town, the Rome and Gironde Gates and names of streets and squares, such as rue aux Fromages (Cheese Street) and Place du Marché-aux-Blés (Grain Market Square). Our Lady of the Nativity church, a veritable survey of architectural styles stretching from the 12th to 19th centuries, is worth a visit. Ride through the wooded Brie and Aubetin Valley in an antique carriage drawn by one, two or four Comtois or Halfinger horses. Booking is required. Syndicat d’Initiatives Centre Brie 01 64 07 71 24 La Fortelle - Nesles - 01 64 51 33 33 www.parc-des-felins.com take a breath Aux écuries du Vieux Château Chemin du Pont Levis - BP27 - Ormeaux 06 78 02 25 17 www.attelage-passion.com Go-karting at Clot Kart This outdoor track guarantees thrills for kids and grown-ups alike. It’s all lit up at night for racing after dark! Open Wednesdays to Sundays from 2 to 7 pm except during the Christmas holidays D209 - carrefour de Prévert Vaudoy-en-Brie - 01 64 07 55 65 www.clotkart.com enjoy The European Feline Park See the beauty, elegance and speed of felines in this unique park. In sharp contrast with traditional zoos, its purpose is to save endangered species. With 120 felines representing Farm products Brie beer Guided tours and a tasting of farmbrewed Brie beer based on local barley. Brie and val d’Yerres Enjoy blond, amber or white beer, depending on your preference. Ferme-Brasserie de Gaillon – Courpalay 01 64 25 76 05 - www.biere-de-brie.com Farm and dairy products The pleasures of the market in Nangis places to eat Traditional market along rue du Général Leclerc on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. La Gallinette Production and sale of homemade yogurt, oil and flour. Tour of the farm. places to stay Ferme de la Psauve-Nangis 01 64 08 01 68 - 06 74 91 15 81 At the Logis de France «Hôtellerie du Châtel» in Nangis Free-range poultry This farm raises and sells chickens, guinea fowl, turkeys, geese and local food products. Ferme de Montils - 4, rue du bois Chapelle - La Chapelle Rablais 01 64 08 40 78 This farm sells guinea fowl, turkeys, geese, capons, chicken rillettes and local food products. Ferme de Tourneboeufs La Chapelle Rablais 01 64 08 40 32 - 06 82 31 44 12 Enjoy delicious dishes on site or take them away. Open every day except Wednesdays and Saturday mornings 20, rue de l’Yvron - Courpalay 01 64 06 46 39 5 At the "Bistro des Arts" This authentic bistro with “Gilded Age” decoration offers a friendly ambiance and quality cuisine in the heart of the old town. 84, rue du Général Leclerc Rozay en Brie - 01 64 07 46 60 www.lebistrotdesarts.fr This character-filled hotel and restaurant in a park-like setting is an ideal place to come for a holiday and recharge your batteries. 17, av. du Général de Gaulle Nangis - 01 64 08 22 50 www.lesbillettes.com In a bed and breakfast at the Château des Moyeux in La Chapelle Rablais «Lord it up” in one of this historic home’s four elegant rooms. M. et Mme Galazommatis 01 64 08 49 51 www.chateau-des-moyeux.com Find all the accommodations and gourmet and traditional restaurants on the Seine-et-Marne Tourism Internet site www.tourisme77.fr 8 A beautiful getaway in wooded Brie and the Aubetin valley 7 Memories of long-ago peasant life and the romantic remains of a medieval castle spring up here and there in verdant lands, fields, woods and secret valleys. This beautiful getaway leisurely Th wends its way through quiet w villages and past astonishing vi churches. ch 2 A beautiful getaway 8 place to see Montceaux-les-Provins and Saint Germain church Saint Peter’s church in Beauchery-Saint-Martin Beton-Bazoches The village of Montceaux-les-Provins, which stands on a hill marking the boundary between Brie and Champagne, was the scene of fierce fighting during the Battle of the Marne in September 1914. Both sides sustained hundreds of casualties; the military cemetery attests to those tragic times. On 6 September 1914 French artillery destroyed the tower of Saint Germain church in order to dislodge the German lookout telling enemy guns where to aim their fire. The church was built in several stages: the nave in the Romanesque period; the Flamboyant Gothic apse and tower in the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance. It is all that remains of a monastery complex abandoned during the French Revolution. Saint Peter’s church bears the marks of many changes. The Gothic choir features sexpartite vaults, which are common in the area. The nave was built later, in the 16th century. In 1997 the twinned lancet windows were restored to harmoniously blend in with the contemporary stained glass. Stroll the streets of this charming Briard village to explore its rich heritage. Monuments line narrow lanes, from Gothic Saint Denis church with a façade made colourful by crushed bricks to the half-timbered 16th-century covered market, beautiful tile and half-timbered 19th-century wash house and famous apple press, a masterpiece of craftsmanship unique in Ile de France. This outstanding testimonial to the French countryside’s past and to cider’s popularity was once used to turn the villagers’ apple harvest into thousands of litres of our forebears’ favourite drink. A videoguide with contributions by the village residents is available at the tourist office. This discovery tool brings you back in time to between 1850 and 1950 by illustrating what daily life was like through the ages. Syndicat d’Initiatives 06 75 47 74 78 - www.si-bb.com Saint Hubert church in Les Marêts This village’s Renaissance church dates back to the 16th and 18th centuries. The porch-tower on the west side and hexagonal nave on the east make the plan unique in Ile-de-France. The architect Philippe Delorme may have designed the unusual 1560 Renaissance rotunda. The remains of a castle, in particular the outer wall’s old South Tower housing an impressive dovecote with over 6,000 pigeonholes, have been preserved inside a rural architectural complex (not open to the public). The North Tower’s proud outline rises above the wall’s remains. The remains of the medieval castle in Montaiguillon Once a proud fortress, Montaiguillon guarded the road between Troyes – Champagne’s medieval capital – and Senlis. Merchants travelling between the fairs in Bar-sur-Aube, Troyes, Provins and Lagny used the road. During the Hundred Years War, English troops besieged the fortress for several months, forcing the occupants to surrender by using the latest artillery technology. The imposing structure was rebuilt between the 12th and 15th centuries with tunnels stretching all the way to Provins. Richelieu had most of the castle dismantled in 1613. All that remains of this feudal past are ruins nestling in a park-like setting, inscribed on the list of historic monuments. Romanticism and reveries abound on this stop. Voulton church Our Lady of the Assumption, a listed historic monument and a Gothic masterpiece, dates from the late 12th and early 13th centuries, illustrating the transition from Romanesque to Gothic. The impressive dimensions and elevation recall Saint Quiriace collegiate church in Provins. The huge nave and groin-vaulted choir form a majestic whole. Heavily damaged during the wars of religion and the French Revolution, the church was listed and restored in the 19th century on the initiative of the bishop of Meaux, with help from Prosper Mérimée and his brand new Department of Historic Monuments. The former priory, today a private house, seamlessly blends in with the complex around the church. take a breath Jouy Forest In 1156 Henry of Champagne gave the forest, which belonged to the counts of Champagne, to the Cistercian abbey of Jouy. It became public in the 19th century and today stretches out over 1,632 hectares. The main tree species are durmast and pedunculate oaks, and the forest is home to deer, boar, hare and rabbit. Marked trails, including one leading to the Montauban oak, which is more than 370 years old, cut through the forest. The Vignory sheepfold The “A la découverte de la ferme” teaching farm welcomes you year round to experience life at the rhythm of the passing seasons. See the farm animals and their environment. Tours by appointment - Cerneux 01 60 67 72 89 www.decouvertedelaferme-idf.fr enjoy Goat’s cheese Visit the goat farm and taste its delicious cheeses! Sales on site. Chèvrerie des Marêts Les Marêts 06 85 54 60 57 http://chevreriefavreau.chez-alice.fr in wooded Brie and the Aubetin valley The ostrich farm Visit a farm, unique in the area, where ostriches, rheas, emus and other farm animals are raised. You can also taste and buy local food products. For individuals: tours on weekends from 20 April to late September. For school groups: tours year round by appointment 21, rue Rupereux-Villiers-Saint-Georges 01 64 01 20 46 - 06 07 41 79 98 The Flavours of the Land At Carreline Farm This shop honours farm-raised meat, homemade sausage, free-range poultry, farmers’ cheese and dairy products, home-brewed beer, Briard cider and apple juice, barley sugar, Briard shortbread, honey, rose-flavoured products and other goodies from the land of Seineet-Marne! A must for gourmets! Open every day except Mondays from 9:30am to 7pm - Route de la Ferté - RN4 77560 Courtacon 01 64 60 78 09 places to stay places to eat In a bed and breakfast At Restaurant Hervé Joyaux This beautiful property in an old renovated farmhouse includes three comfortable, tastefully decorated guestrooms. Accessible to people with reduced mobility. Villiers-Saint-Georges bed and breakfast Enjoy traditional cuisine based on homemade products, smoked salmon, foie gras, terrines, etc. Wild fish and exotic meats, such as ostrich, kangaroo, bison and antelope. A rustic setting and a décor that’s part museum, part antique shop. Brigitte and Emmanuel MORISSEAU 40, rue de Nogent 01 64 01 95 85 - 06 72 01 33 93 rue Perré Louan Louan Villegruis Fontaine 01 64 00 81 80 At the Star of Montceaux Yelloh Village Campground in Louan This three-star campground in the heart of Montaiguillon Forest is open from late April to early September. Many activities are offered on site, including swimming, tennis and horse-riding. La Cerclière Louan-Villegruis-Fontaine 01 64 00 80 14 Spend an unforgettable evening at this veritable cabaret: see a glamorous show and enjoy gourmet cuisine. Formulas: lunch show, dinner show or show alone. R.N.4 - Montceaux-lès-Provins 01 64 01 26 12 www.l-etoile.eu Find all the accommodations and gourmet and traditional restaurants on the Seine-et-Marne Tourism Internet site www.tourisme77.fr 9 2 12 Storming the upper town of Provins 11 Go back in time to the golden age of a legendary town in the footsteps of lords, knights and gentle ladies, merchants and beggars! The «Châtel» overlooking the «Val» reveals its myriad memories with the eloquence of old stones and the medieval spirit’s tangible presence. 3 Storming the 12 places to see The "Châtel" of Provins Once called "Châtel", this quarter is the oldest part of the town perching atop a promontory between the Durteint and Voulzie Valleys. Legend has it that the Roman general Probus stayed here ca. 271 and allowed the growing of grapevines, which Emperor Domitian had forbidden. That is how the town got its name: Probi Vinum ("Probus’s Wine") gradually became Provins. The earliest texts about the town already attested to its importance under Charlemagne’s reign. The dismemberment of the Carolingian empire placed it under the thumb of the counts of Vermandois. The houses of Vermandois and Blois merged, giving birth to the county of Champagne, which then presided over the town’s destiny. The growth of the Champagne fairs, which drew merchants from all over Europe, put Provins on the map. The town reached its peak between the 11th and 13th centuries, becoming France’s biggest city after Paris and Rouen. The diversity of its seigniorial, civil, military and religious medieval architecture forms a unique urban complex that has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 2002. Explore the architectural wonders of the upper town, which was the seigniorial quarter. Office de Tourisme Maison du Visiteur 01 64 60 26 26 - www.provins.net Caesar’s Tower The famous Caesar’s Tower, the symbol of Provins, is an original model of a keep. It was built on an artificial hillock in the upper town’s centre under the 12th-century reign of Henry the Liberal. The imposing architecture and original shape attest to the lords’ wealth and power. An octagonal tower flanked by turrets rises up on a square base. It was crenulated until the 17th century, when a roof was added to cover the bells that had been installed at the top. Throughout its long history the town’s emblem has served as a place of refuge, watchtower, garrison, prison and bell tower. Visitors can climb up to the top for a wonderful view of the whole town. Saint Quiriace collegiate church Count Henry the Liberal had this magnificent collegiate church built in the town’s 12th-century golden age, but it remained unfinished because of financial woes when Provins was handed over to the kingdom of France under the reign of Philip the Fair. Had it been completed, the nave and portal would have reached the end of the square. The present dome replaced a collapsed central tower in the 17th century. The imposing interior is majestic and elegant. The church also owes its outstanding character to the choir’s octopartite groined vaults. A plaque on the façade recalls that Joan of Arc prayed at Saint Quiriace on her way to the coronation of the dauphin Charles VII in Reims. The Museum of Provins and the Provins Region The “Carreau de Provins” and House of Crafts and Food Products Learn about the town’s past at this museum in one of Provins’ oldest Romanesque houses. The rich collections relate the history of the town and its environs. This remarkable place is worth visiting for its exceptional, unusual pieces. Discover and share know-how linked to the land and crafts at the famous "Carreau de Provins", a holdover of medieval craftsmanship on Place du Châtel in the heart of the old town. The ES Gallery: contemporary art in the heart of medieval Provins The ES Gallery invites you to its spaces opening out on Place du Châtel in the heart of the medieval quarter to see contemporary art in an exceptional setting. The gallery shows all forms of art, from painting to sculpture, prints and jewellery. Works by the great names of contemporary art and new talents are on display side by side. The support and assistance they have found here have enabled them to introduce themselves to the public and become well known. The ES Gallery features a comprehensive range of techniques, from bronze and wooden sculptures to glass, ceramics, resin, all the painting and drawing techniques and original jewellery. That concept makes it a unique, friendly space dedicated to seasoned art lovers as well as neophytes. Galerie d’ES 6 et 10 place du Châtel Ville Haute 01 60 52 07 88 www.galerie-es.com 21 rue du Palais - Place du Châtel 01 60 67 64 54 www.lecarreaudeprovins.fr The Tithe Barn This house, which, with its superb vaulted rooms, is typical of Provins, was an indoor market where merchants of Toulouse stayed during the fairs. In the 16th century the building was turned into a tithe barn. Today this witness to the town’s merchant past is a place to learn about the fabulous history of medieval fairs. An audio-guide and highly realistic re-enactments of the period’s main craft and merchant activities immerse you into a very lively ambiance. take a breath On the rampart walk Walk the magnificent ramparts on the beautiful shaded promenade all the way to the place called the «trou du chat» (“cat’s hole”). The fortifications are the most impressive on the side of the Brie plain. From Saint John’s Gate to Jouy Gate the walls, towers upper town of Provins and rampart walk amaze us with their rich, varied and powerful architecture, which was intended to display the local lords’ exceptional might and dissuade any would-be attackers. With outdoor medieval shows Arkhangaï, the knights of the steppes! The earliest known knights emerged in Asia, where they lived on 5,000km of steppes. Come to the historic Templars’ house to meet these highly skilled horsemen and share their passion for their mounts. Cavalcades, trick riding, free-ranging horses, cabrioles and dressage are on the programme of this unforgettable show! "The eagles of the remparts" A falconry show unique in Europe produced by Vol Libre Production At the theatre of the ramparts of Provins people whisper the legend of a pagan falconer named Bavon, a great 7th-century hunter who was accused of stealing a white falcon. As he was being punished, the bird reappeared in the sky, proving his innocence. Bavon converted to Christianity and became the patron saint of falconers. This legend introduces you to the magic of birds of prey in harmony with horses, wolves and camels. Designed by Vol Libre Production – 01 60 58 80 32 – www.vollibre.fr "The knights’legend" "The Knights’ Legend" recalls life in Provins around the mid-13th century, when the counts and fairs of Champagne made the town wealthy. Knights put on a fantastic show in the moats to unveil this beautiful medieval legend. There are beautiful scenes with splendid period costumes, the ramparts and medieval town as a setting, and a host of trained horses, pigs and cows. "In the days of the ramparts" "In the Days of the Ramparts" is a show about times troubled by conflicts between the great medieval lords. You can watch knights preparing to fight with various weapons, from swords to flails, maces and sticks. You’ll learn everything you ever wanted to know about the soldier’s gear and armour and the role of horses in battle. And above all, you’ll see three working war machines, rebuilt based on old plans! Designed and directed by Equestrio 01 60 67 39 95 - www.equestrio.fr Find dates and times at www.provins.net 13 places to stay places to eat At "Hostellerie aux Vieux Remparts" At the "Fleur de sel" crepe restaurant Over 30 comfortable rooms welcome you to a beautiful house in the heart of the medieval town. The restaurant serves inventive gourmet cuisine. An excellent crepe restaurant with delicious combinations and good value for money in a pleasant setting. 3 rue Couverte – 01 64 08 94 00 www.auxvieuxremparts.com 3 place du Châtel-Provins - 01 64 00 26 34 "Demeure des Vieux Bains" bed and breakfast At "La Table Saint Jean" This beautiful listed historic monument was a public bathhouse in the Middle Ages. It has three luxurious, elegantly decorated guest rooms and a suite. 7 rue du Moulin-de-la-ruelle 06 74 64 54 00 www.demeure-des-vieux-bains.com 1 rue Saint Jean - 01 64 08 96 77 enjoy Local food products From the good earth Dairy products, pork products, fine foods and Provins Brie: all the best products of the surrounding area! 3 This pleasant restaurant in a lovely half-timbered medieval house with exposed beams and stones offers quality traditional cuisine and good value for money. 1 2 3 Tour César Eglise St-Quiriace La Grange aux Dîmes Maison du Terroir et de l’Artisanat 21, rue du palais - 01 60 52 66 43 Fruits from the orchard Ramparts fruit production Production and sale of local food products. 12 rue de Savigny - 06 83 10 18 99 Rose-based products At La Ronde des Abeilles Rose honey, sweets 3 rue des Beaux-Arts 01 60 67 65 97 Find all the accommodations and gourmet and traditional restaurants on the Seine-et-Marne Tourism Internet site www.tourisme77.fr Provins MARCH TO NOVEMBER Many shows take you on a journey through time: Arkhangai, the knights of the steppes Come meet the knights of the steppes in a historic place and the verdant setting of the Templars’ house to share their passion for horses. This unforgettable show features cavalcades, trick-riding, free-running horses, dressage and cabrioles! The knights’ legend A fantasy-filled chivalry show in the moats of Provins’ ramparts plunges you into the heart of a beautiful medieval legend. The eagles of the ramparts The legend of the falconer Bavon will introduce you to the magic of birds of prey (eagles, buzzards, falcons, owls and vultures) in harmony with horses. Visit the aviaries and wolf pen at the end of the show. volunteers recount the joys and sorrows of 13th-century Provins’ knaves, peasants, monks, lords, merchants and craftsmen. Cordeliers Convent – Nanteuil Road Inquire at the MJC 9 avenue du Maréchal De Lattre de Tassigny 01 64 60 16 77 http://mjc.provins.free.fr JULY-AUGUST The glimmer of time Thousands of candles light up the medieval quarter. Music and activity in the streets – a magical event! AUGUST Harvest festival Shows and activities in the upper town’s streets celebrate the end of the harvest. In the days of the ramparts Information and schedule: During the show spectators see how medieval war machines work and watch soldiers training for battle. Tourist Office Visitor’s House 01 64 60 26 26 – www.provins.net JUNE The highlights of medieval times: The medieval festival One of Europe’s biggest medieval festivals, with troubadours, street performers, musicians, feasts, merchants, craftsmen and many activities. www.provins-medieval.com Sound and light show Spectacular tableaux vivants designed and performed by over 300 Béton-Bazoches OCTOBER: Cider festival A beautiful traditional festival where you can taste local cider and food products. A warm ambiance with many craftsmen in attendance. Tourist Office 6 rue de l’Hôtel de Ville 01 64 01 01 67 – 06 75 47 74 78 www.si-bb.com Nangis SEPTEMBER: Music festival This outstanding event combines jazz, rock, chorales, orchestras and traditional music. Tourist Office Cour Emile Zola 01 64 01 26 65 Longueville Travel back in time on a steam train! Several times a year the Association of Young People for the Maintenance and Preservation of Antique Trains (AJECTA) puts old locomotives back on the track from Paris to Provins or Troyes. AJECTA Locomotive depot 3 rue Louis Platriez - Longueville 01 64 60 26 26 - www.ajecta.org Donnemarie-Dontilly OCTOBER Artists’ studios open house Visit artists’ studios during an openhouse weekend to see their works. Tourist Office Boulevard d’Haussonville 01 60 67 32 32 Saint-Loup-de-Naud Saint Loup afternoons (subject to confirmation) This festival offers concerts of Baroque music on old instruments in exceptional historic settings. Inquire at the town hall 01 64 08 62 58 – 01 64 08 62 54 www.saint-loup-de-naud.com On the trails of Montois and Bassée 17 From hills to wooded slopes… On trails crossing plateaus and gentle glens… From one village to the next, follow the church steeples to discover memories of long-ago peasant life and meet the inhabitants of today! 4 On the trails 18 places to see Bray-sur-Seine Bray is less famous than its powerful neighbour Provins, but in the Middle Ages the counts of Champagne set up another fair here. The barony of Bray in the farthest reaches of the kingdom of France was at the crossroads of strategic routes from the county of Champagne and the Duchy of Burgundy, the banks of the Seine and an ancient Roman road, the Via Agrippa. The river port, which did not decline until the railway arrived, contributed to the town’s prosperity, to which many buildings still attest. From the remains of a fortified gate next to Port Saint Jean to mansions, old houses, the covered market and Holy Cross church, Bray has preserved its appearance as a trading centre on the fertile Bassée alluvial plain. SI Bray-sur-Seine Maison des associations, place de l’église - 01 64 01 14 17 www.ville-bray-sur-seine.fr The Living Railway Museum in Longueville The Longueville train depot (5km from Provins) and its 1911 wooden engine shed house a major collection of steam locomotives, passenger cars and freight cars reflecting a century of rail history from 1850 to 1950. This witness to the “golden age” of rail travel, which was listed as a historic monument in 1984, has become the Living Railway Museum. The Association of Young People for the Maintenance and Preservation of Antique Trains (AJECTA) is proud to present this site, unique in France, and to organise trips on old trains. AJECTA - Dépôt des Machines 3 rue Louis Platriez - Longueville 01 64 60 26 26 – www.ajecta.org Lourps Chapel You’ll find this beautiful church near Provins on the D403 after Longueville driving towards Jutigny/Bray-sur-Seine. The late 12th to early 13th-century chapel was part of a castle from which it was separated in the French Revolution. After the vault collapsed in the 1966, the building underwent a 12-year restoration that brought back the splendour its remarkable 13th, 15th and 17th-century murals. The chapel is open to the public during the day but also hosts concerts at nights. Association Culture et Patrimoine, les Amis de Lourps 01 64 08 83 69 - 06 89 87 50 21 www.lesamisdelourps.fr The chalk kiln in Donnemarie-Dontilly Many chalk quarries once surrounded Donnemarie-Dontilly; the material was widely used to plaster the façades and inside walls of traditional houses. The 19th-century kiln visible from the Mons-en-Montois road, a listed historic monuments, bears witness to that practice. The lower floor, chalk kilns buried into the hillside and gable surmounted by a brick pediment are still intact. Syndicat d’Initiatives du Canton de Donnemarie-Dontilly - Boulevard d’Haussonville - 01 60 67 32 32 The remains of Preuilly Abbey Founded in 1118, Preuilly was the fifth “daughter of Cîteaux”. The famous philosopher and theologian Abelard, best known for his scandalous affair with Heloise, took refuge in the prestigious abbey for a while. The abbey was attacked by the English during the Hundred Years War, plundered during the wars of religion and the Fronde, and dissolved during the French Revolution. In 1829 the property was bought by a family that still owns it and managed to save vestiges of the abbey church, the chapter room and the farm located within the walls. Those remains, which are still visible, give off a solemn impression. The transept, choir and magnificent entrance porch, which was restored in the 19th century, can still be seen. The Montois Museum in Luisetaines Two passionate collectors created this museum of rural life in bygone days. Over 400 items, including tools and scale models of farm and craftsmen’s implements, are on display. Place de l’église Open weekends or by appointment at 01 60 67 49 27 take a breath In Sourdun Forest Sourdun Forest stretches out 740 hectares over a rocky spur overlooking La Bassée and the Seine Valley. It has belonged to the counts of Champagne since 1665, although monks, lords and the king shared using it. The forest supplied Paris with timber and firewood, which were floated up the Seine. Today the forest has beautiful stands of oak and beech trees that can be reached on marked trails. At the medieval garden in Donnemarie-Dontilly The cloister adjoining the parish church has a magnificent medieval garden whose theme is “life and death”. Twelve rectangles recall the apostles and the months of the year. As in the 13th century, the plots bordered by pink sandstone must be productive. Willow fascines protect the medicinal plants. The flowerbeds are bordered by cut boxwood, which is more decorative, evoking with the central part the symbolic readings of the 15th century. The plants, which were in common use during the Middle Ages, give off forgotten fragrances. Free admission. Canoeing and kayaking Rent canoes at the Peupleraie campground. Rue des Pâtures – Bray-sur-Seine 01 60 67 12 24 – www.lapeupleraie. com of Montois and Bassée Microlight flying Flights, maiden flights and beginners’ lessons. Year round, Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Booking advised. Les Ailes de la Bassée 3, rue du Vieux Pont - Neuvry 01 60 67 11 24 http: //ulm.ailesbassee.free.fr enjoy places to stay places to eat Goat’s cheese In a bed and breakfast Le Saint Sauveur This farm makes and sells goat’s cheese At the Moulin de Gouaix Traditional cuisine Jacqueline and André ACHIN 1 rue des jardins Sognolles-en-Montois 01 60 67 36 48 Water-skiing Ski three exceptional bodies of water at Souricière Pond. Fruits and vegetables Aqu’aventure – Route de Balloy Gavon - 01 64 31 27 59 www.skiaquaventure.com Pick your own fruit in a verdant setting. In Sensitive Natural Areas (ENS) Around the pond in Grisy-sur-Seine Forest and in Neuvry quarry in Champmorin Sensitive Natural Areas (ENS) are remarkable sites that have been developed for public use. They are home to plant and animal species needing protection. Admire the old clay and limestone quarries that have become natural spaces and learn about the process of extracting and exploiting stone for the production of chalk and building materials. Presentation brochures are available from the Water and Environment Department and the town halls concerned. 19 Bernard VINCENT 5 rue d’En-Bas - Jutigny 01 64 08 82 96 The pleasures of the market In Bray-sur-Seine Traditional Friday morning market in the market building and the main road. Gouaix Mill welcomes its guests to two spacious, cosy rooms in a peaceful setting on the banks of the Voulzie. Mr et Mme Moriette Rue du Moulin de Gouaix -Jutigny 09 61 24 56 77-06 07 35 34 21 In Gurcy-le-Châtel Enjoy a pleasant holiday in this beautiful 19th-century farmhouse. Surrounded by a huge flower garden, this address with character on the forest’s edge offers a single room and a family room. Mr et Mme Tapella 23 rue Gounod 01 60 67 40 24 - 06 33 48 99 80 18 Grande Rue - Saint Sauveur les Bray 01 60 67 69 53 "Au Bon Laboureur" Hotel-Restaurant This hotel-restaurant located approximately 10 kilometres from the abbey offers good traditional cuisine in a warm, friendly setting. 4 2 rue Grande - Bray-sur-Seine 01 60 67 10 81 www.aubonlaboureur.com In Donnemarie-Dontilly Every Monday morning, Rue du Four, Place du Marché and Place des Jeux. Water and Environment Department 01 64 14 76 12 www.seine-et-marne.fr During a bird-watching expedition The association of Loing Valley and Fontainebleau Forest Naturalists offers guided tours with bird-watching. ANVL - 01 64 22 61 17 http://anvl.club.fr Retrouvez l’ensemble des hébergements et des restaurants gastronomiques et traditionnels sur le site Internet du Tourisme de Seine-et-Marne www.tourisme77.fr Strolling through the lower town of Provins 21 Along the Durteint and Voulzie… Narrow streets, squares, gardens and walks at the bottom of the «Châtel» reveal a still-secret Provins. The surprising, irresistible, T verdant «Val» unveils its beauty v to those who know how to see it! 5 Strolling through 22 places to see The "Val" Before the year 1000, the only building in the Voulzie and Durteint Valleys, vast wetlands below the upper town of Provins, was a chapel dedicated to Saint Médard, where the relics of Saint Ayoul hidden by monks fleeing the 9th-century Norman invasion were "miraculously" found in 996. In 1048 the ensuing flow of pilgrims prompted Count Thibaud I to order the building of Saint Ayoul’s church and ask the king to send Benedictine monks to serve mass there. The lower town grew up around this spiritual centre, prospered and became a place of intense activity. Cloth, leather and knife manufactories sprang up along the riverbanks and thrived thanks to the trade fairs. Strolling through the "Val" today, history remains palpable and the gentleness of life intact. Office de Tourisme Maison du Visiteur 01 64 60 26 26 – www.provins.net The Cordelier Convent Legend has it that one night Thibault IV, the count of Champagne, had a vision of Saint Catherine, who pointed with her sword to a vast location on a hillside beyond the ramparts. The count realised that she wanted him to have a convent built on that spot. The Franciscan (Cordelier) convent was founded in 1248. It became a hospital in the 19th century and today houses the Heritage and National Monuments Department archives and a tourism school. The site welcomes visitors on the Heritage Days and other special occasions. Extensive restorations are under way; the church will re-open to the public in 2010. The tunnels and lower rooms Holy Cross church Provins has an exceptionally big network of tunnels. The public part, located beneath the Hôtel-Dieu hospital and rue Saint-Thibault, is open to the public. Visitors can also see two vaulted lower rooms that had a relationship to the fairs. The on beneath the Hôtel-Dieu was used as a hospital. The other, under a house, served as a warehouse and salesroom. The tunnels resulted from the exploitation of an easy-to-extract clay that was used to full wool intended for the local fabric industry. The underground network provided connections between the various lower rooms and additional storage areas. The architecture of this church attests that it already existed in the early 12th century and belonged to Saint Ayoul’s monastery. It was named Holy Cross when a count of Champagne sent a relic from the Orient. The church was elevated to the status of a parish under Thibault IV ca. 1234 and a new nave was built. The growth of the lower town and its industries enriched the parish, making it possible to expand the church. The building stands between two rivers and suffered flooding many times, so the floor was gradually raised. The central façade portal dates from the late 16th century; the north portal is in the Flamboyant Gothic style. The interior is currently closed to the public. Saint Ayoul’s church This church, which was built after Saint Ayoul’s relics were found in Saint Médard’s chapel, was the starting point for the lower town’s growth. The forecourt became a trading place and the first site of the Provins fairs. Construction began in 1048 but a fire ravaged the building in 1160. All that remains of the original church is the 11th-century portal decorated with column statues that were mutilated during the French Revolution. The tympanum, by the contemporary sculptor Georges Jeanclos, shows Christ in majesty surrounded by the Evangelists. A new choir, the nave and the side aisles were built in the 13th century. The former thermal pavilion People strolling down the Allée d’Aligre notice the town’s old thermal pavilion, which bears witness to a little-known past. In the 19th century Provins was a hot-spring spa town that the state managed until 1840. “Taking the waters” was very fashionable in those days and ranked among the most common forms of tourism. The town was famous for the quality of its waters and hosted many visitors, in particular Parisians who came by train. The villa Garnier The villa Garnier houses the «old archives» of Provins, which still contribute to research about the town’s history. Lavish illuminated manuscripts are part of the collection, which has 25,000 volumes, including 400 manuscripts and 11 incunabula. These documents attract historians from around the world. Open Thursdays from 1:30 to 5:30pm 01 64 00 59 60 take a breath In the rose garden See the queen of flowers at a threehectare rose garden in a quiet, enchanting spot in the town centre. Green rooms tell the history of this emblematic flower and its colours, shapes, virtues and scents. This is a pleasant walk to find out everything you ever wanted to know about the famous Provins Rose, vintage roses and modern roses. Roses are for sale in season. There is also a decoration shop and a tearoom on the site. Open every day from 10am to 7pm 11 rue des Prés 01 60 58 05 78 the lower town of Provins Along Boulevard and Allée d’Aligre These thoroughfares, a veritable green belt, replaced the old town walls after they were torn down. Take a beautiful walk on them to enjoy astonishing views of the medieval quarter. In the extension of Boulevard d’Aligre, keep walking until you reach the train station and take Boulevards Pasteur, Grand Peissier and Grand Quartier Général. In the Garnier Garden In 1848 Victor Garnier, a wealthy Provins manufacturer who made a fortune in Paris, bought an estate where he created an “English” garden. At his death he bequeathed it to the town as a public garden. The site, which remains been almost entirely in its original state, is a prime example of 19th-century gardening, with its 8,000 sq m of flowerbeds and rare tree species (copper beech, catalpa, royal ginkgo, etc.), wide variety of flowers and abundant statuary. Fragments of Provins’ demolished monuments were brought here in the late 19th century. The garden is a very scenic, romantic place. 23 enjoy places to stay places to eat The pleasures of the market «A night in the garden» bed and breakfast «La Croix d’Or» (Golden Cross Hostelry) A pretty bed and breakfast in the orangery of the family’s property. France’s oldest hostelry, dating to 1270, offers quality gourmet cuisine. Catherine DELAHAUT 25 rue du Commandant Genneau 06 09 06 87 19 1 rue des Capucins 01 64 00 01 96 Weekly Saturday morning market, Place Saint Ayoul Rose-based products Pâtisserie Gaufillier – chocolate-maker Homemade chocolate, preserves, bonbons, sorbets, rose-flavoured fruit jelly 2 rue Victor Garnier 01 64 00 03 71 “Niflettes” “Niflettes” are little custard-filled flaky pastry tartlets that were traditionally served to orphans on All Saints Day. All the bakeries in Provins sell them. The word «niflette» comes from the Latin «Ne flete», which means «Don’t cry anymore». Le Provinois “Le Royal Hubert» bed and breakfast and apartment This small bar-restaurant offers good, simple cuisine at reasonable prices. This 18th-century-style bourgeois house below the medieval town offers guests a romantic décor near a spa. 17 - 19 rue de Changis 01 60 67 64 38 Jacqueline HUBERT 1 rue Christophe Opoix 01 64 00 14 50 - 06 16 28 47 82 Provinois Brie La Cave à Fromages Brie cheese made in the environs of Provins. 18 rue de la Friperie 01 60 52 07 57 1 2 3 4 5 6 Couvent des Cordelières Souterrains Eglise St-Ayoul Eglise St-Croix Ancien Pavillon thermal Villa et Jardin Garnier Retrouvez l’ensemble des hébergements et des restaurants gastronomiques et traditionnels sur le site Internet du Tourisme de Seine-et-Marne www.tourisme77.fr 10 A rustic Escapade in Montois From spiritual sites to farms… along rivers and streams… through villages from farms to shrines, the gentle scenery of Montois beckons you to explore a rich heritage and share rural life… 25 6 A rustic Escapade 26 places to see Saint-Loup-de-Naud This quaint village nestling in a gentle glen inspired many artists, from Marcel Proust to Colette, Virginia Woolf and Francis Poulenc. The houses huddle around one of the most beautiful churches in Ile-de-France, a place of pilgrimage that the counts of Champagne lavishly endowed in honour of the relics of Saint Loup, the bishop of Sens. The building, which illustrates the harmony of Romanesque architecture, is famous for its extraordinary, perfectly preserved early 12th-century west portal. The stunning sculptural programme and quality craftsmanship attest to the presence of major artists under the patronage of the counts of Champagne. The tympanum features a theme that was widespread in the Middle Ages: Christ in majesty in a mandorla surrounded by the four symbols of the Evangelists, the «tetramorph». The scene on the lintel depicts the life of the Virgin, the archivolts legendary episodes from the life of Saint Loup. But the most astonishing features are the «statue-columns» adorning the portal’s embrasure. These sculptures bear a striking resemblance to the ones flanking the royal portal at the cathedral of Chartres. During the «Saint Loup Afternoons» festival, the church and other religious buildings in the region host concerts of Baroque music. Information at the town hall 01 64 08 62 58 - 01 64 08 62 54 www.saint-loup-de-naud.com Saint Eliphe church in Rampillon The village of Rampillon once belonged to the Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, whose members were also known as the Knights Hospitaller. Perching atop a rocky spur overlooking the Brie plain, the site has the strategic qualities of a stronghold. The 13th-century Saint Eliphe church was not only a place of worship but also a watchtower for observing the surrounding area. The architecture is pure and simple. A porch shelters the remarkable, completely restored portal featuring scenes from the Last Judgement and a beautiful calendar of the agricultural year. Rampillion Town Hall - 01 64 08 06 17 Open to the public from 3 to 6:30 pm on Sundays and holidays from Easter to All Saints Day Audiovisual show on the church’s history and architecture. www.eglise-rampillon.com La Croix-en-Brie This village also has a connection to the Order of Saint John of Jerusalem. In the 13th century the Hospitaller knights acquired the property that the monks of Charité-sur-Loire owned here. The former priory, commander’s farm and church bear witness to how wealthy they were. Around 1200 a priest from this parish wrote the 11th «branch» of the famous «Roman du Renart». The town’s coat-of-arms refers to that medieval literary achievement as well to the village’s Hospitaller past. The church still has a 13th-century choir and some interesting furnishings. Town Hall - 01 64 08 09 28 The Gallo-Roman site of Châteaubleau The Plessis wash house at Tournelles near Cucharmoy This ancient site located near two rivers on wooded, fertile land had everything necessary for human settlement, which seems to stretch back to the Mesolithic Age. Châteaubleau’s position straddling the boundary between the lands of the Meldes and Senons made it important when the Via Agrippa was built in the first century of the common era during the Gallo-Roman period. A residential quarter, craftsmen’s’ shops, a theatre, temples and water shrine are open to the public. The almost square water shrine, which is at the village’s northern end, has been almost completely excavated and sits in a Gallo-Roman garden with plants that were in common use during the period. This typical, late 19th-century wood and limestone wash house has a wooden mechanism that adjusted the floor’s height with winches, an ingenious device that let the washerwomen to stay above water level no matter what the season and despite flooding. Excavation workshops and educational activities take place every summer. "La Riobé" Association 01 64 01 67 46 08 77 30 26 60 www.archeo.fr/chateaubleau take a breath On horseback Impulsion Equestre de Chenoise This horse-riding centre offers rides and horse and pony-riding lessons for all levels. Impasse Fontaine de Voulx Les Bordes - Chenoise 01 64 00 90 53 in Montois 27 At Saint-Hilliers Farm Brushing donkeys, milking goats, watching a chick hatch, gathering eggs, feeding animals and petting rabbits are just some of the things on the agenda! Visits by appointment every day during school holidays, Wednesdays and weekends year round. Hameau de Savigny - St Hilliers 01 64 00 24 61 www.ferme-animaux.net At the "walking Percherons" horsedrawn carriage centre Tour the medieval quarter of Provins or the surrounding countryside in a horse-drawn carriage. Other rides for adults and children are offered. Accessible to people with reduced mobility. Percherons en balade 29 rue vieille Notre Dame - Mortery 06 20 61 31 20 www.provins-percherons.com enjoy places to stay places to eat Farm products In a bed and breakfast L’étable La Ferme de Juchy Saint-Loup-de-Naud Traditional French cuisine in a pleasant setting The farm sells cheese, eggs, milk, cream, etc. A spacious double room with separate entrance in a park-like setting. 1 Chemin de Lizines Leudon-Lizines 01 64 01 61 52 Mr et Mme Belanger 11 rue Sainte Marie Courton-le-Haut 01 64 08 66 15 Bois-des-Pies Farm Company The company sells rapeseed, sunflower and flaxseed oil. La Croix-en-Brie 01 64 01 69 72 Monsieur Claude Gauthier Buy cheese straight from the farm Open Friday and Saturday from 3 to 6pm La Chapelle-St-Sulpice 01 64 01 63 60 (Answering machine) Châteaubleau Three charming, tastefully decorated guestrooms. Catherine Dalmard «Les Castelblotines» 27 rue Prosper Desplats 01 64 01 65 12 06 14 03 11 36 10 rue du Dauphin Nangis 01 64 08 17 56 L’auberge de l’Abbaye 6 Traditional cuisine during the week. Gourmet and medieval cuisine on weekends 2 rue du Château Chenoise 09 66 44 22 64 Retrouvez l’ensemble des hébergements et des restaurants gastronomiques et traditionnels sur le site Internet du Tourisme de Seine-et-Marne www.tourisme77.fr Useful adresses and information Seine-et-Marne Tourist Board 11, Rue Royale - 77300 Fontainebleau - Tél. : 01 60 39 60 39 www.tourisme77.fr et www.resa.fr Tourist Offices SI Beton-Bazoche 6 rue de l’Hôtel de Ville 77320 BETON-BAZOCHES Tél. : 01 64 01 01 6 - 06 75 47 74 78 www.si-bb.com SI Bray-sur-Seine Maison des associations place de l’église 77480 BRAY-SUR-SEINE Tél : 01 64 01 14 17 www.ville-bray-sur-seine.fr SI Canton de Donnemarie-Dontilly Boulevard d’Haussonville 77520 DONNEMARIE - DONTILLY Tél : 01 60 67 32 32 SI Centre Brie 23, Rue du Général Leclerc 77540 ROZAY-EN-BRIE Tél : 01 64 07 71 24 SI Nangis Cour Emile Zola B.P. 58 - 77370 NANGIS Tél : 01 64 01 26 65 OT Provins Maison du Visiteur B.P. 44 - 77482 PROVINS Cedex Tél : 01 64 60 26 26 www.provins.net Others Contacts Water and Environment Department 145, quai Voltaire 77190 DAMMARIE-LES-LYS Tél. : 01 64 14 76 12 www.seine-et-marne.fr Codérando77 11, rue Royale 77300 FONTAINEBLEAU Tél. : 01 60 71 91 16 www.coderando77.org Seine-et-Marne Departmental Equestrian Tourism Committee BP 27 - 77540 ORMEAUX Président : Jacques ANDRE 06 45 71 50 53 [email protected] www.tourisme-equestre77.org Departmental Fishing Federation 13, rue des Fossés 77000 MELUN Tél : 01 64 39 03 08 www.unpf.fr Châteaux - ramparts - towers On horseback Collections and museums Leisure activity Exceptional farm buildings Tourist Office Natural site Art Gallery Teaching farm House of Crafts and Food Go-karting Rose garden AJECTA - The Living Railway Museum in Longueville From June to September open on Saturday, Sunday and Holidays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. From October to May open on Sunday from 1:00 p.m. to 5 p.m. Group visits can be booked all year round. AJECTA - Dépôt des Machines - 3 rue Louis Platriez - Longueville 01 64 08 60 62 - 01 64 60 26 26 - www.ajecta.org CRÉDITS PHOTOS : CENTRE AIR ULM PARIS - CDT77 VOL LIBRE - EQUESTRIO - AJECTA OFFICE DU TOURISME DE PROVINS ET DU PROVINOIS - PHOTOGRAPHE BÉATRICE LÉCUYER-BIBAL This new website lets you book leisure activities and original thematic holidays at the site www.resa77.co.uk ESPACE GRAPHIC 01 64 23 14 14 DESIGN GRAPHIQUE PATRICK ARCHAUX CDT77 - 12/08 28 , s d n e ek e w e n ar M , t s e e t i e s n i ge Se a r t i u r o e y h e s, n i e l e f n o e c n k a u r . t Book o n c . e 7 , sa7 ions t e r a . d w o w w . . accom . e isur e l d n a shows Travel Tourisme77 Travel, 11 rue Royale, 77300 Fontainebleau Tél : 01 60 39 60 66 • [email protected] VEOLIA TRANSPORT A full top range of services for business and all customers Tourist shuttles, Express regional services, Transportation-on-demand, Interurban lines. Information : 01 64 10 29 20 www.veolia-transport-idf.fr