Off Duty section of the Wall Street Journal
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Off Duty section of the Wall Street Journal
P2JW222000-4-D00300-1--------XA CMYK Composite CL,CN,CX,DL,DM,DX,EE,EU,FL,HO,KC,MW,NC,NE,NY,PH,PN,RM,SA,SC,SL,SW,TU,WB,WE BG,BM,BP,CC,CH,CK,CP,CT,DN,DR,FW,HL,HW,KS,LA,LG,LK,MI,ML,NM,PA,PI,PV,TD,TS,UT,WO THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. Saturday/Sunday, August 10 - 11, 2013 | D3 **** STYLE & FASHION The Early Bird Catches the Coat Buying toasty winter outerwear in August might feel wrong, but it’s the smartest way to jump-start your fall wardrobe Ralph Lauren Collection Black Wool Coat, $4,998, Ralph Lauren, 212-434-8000 Illustration by Drue Wagner/The Wall Street Journal Embellished Silk Wool Coat, $13,140, Prada, 212-334-8888 Rochas Prince of Wales Coat, $4,180, The Room at Hudson’s Bay, 416-861-6251 BY MEENAL MISTRY F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal, Styling by Anne Cardenas (7) Asymmetric Two-Tone Coat, $675, Vince, 646-560-2897 Double Face Cashmere Coat, $21,700, Hermès, 800-441-4488 I HADN’T FOUND my perfect flat sandals for summer when I started to think about winter coats. It was late July. To some, I might sound like a crazed, Type-A shopper getting way ahead of herself, but the fact is, even two weeks ago there were far more capes and crombies than gladiators and thongs available for purchase. On a 90-plus-degree day, I was able to flip open my laptop and add to my Net-aPorter wish list a smartly tailored car coat, a well-priced navy shearling and two dreamy pea coats. (Apparently I wasn’t quite Type-A enough; both pea coats were already sold out in a few sizes.) In the world of high-end retail, July, August and early September are—as counterintuitive as it might seem—the ideal time to buy a coat. “If customers come in now, they get to see a full range of sizes,” said Barbara Atkin, the fashion director of Canadian department store Holt Renfrew. “You know it’s going to get cold. This way you have a better selection.” Ms. Atkin brings up one of the most important points about shopping early: If you wait until the mercury drops enough to call for a woolly topper, the rack may be picked over. (To avoid having to mark down bigticket items, stores have learned to limit their inventory.) “In December or January, if you’re hoping to buy things on sale, there are no more coats,” said fashion consultant Roopal Patel. “It is very weird.” Ms. Patel, who has her eye on a camel coat from Stella McCartney and a Givenchy biker jacket, has started getting organized. “Yesterday, I placed a call to my personal shopper,” she said. Ms. Patel and I are not alone. Coats are selling everywhere. Linda Dresner reported that her namesake boutique in Birmingham, ‘In December or January, there are no more coats. It is very weird.’ Mich., has already sold several from Céline, the Row and Belstaff. Céline coats are also big sellers at Barneys, where senior vice president of ready-to-wear Jennifer Sunwoo said that wintry pieces from Belstaff, Moncler and Marni are also selling well. And online retailer MyTheresa—which currently has one of the best and broadest online selections of coats—last week sold two $10,000 minks and a $77,000 sable, according to buying director Justin O’Shea. Beyond the urgency of snagging your dream coat before someone else snatches it up, buying a coat as your first fall piece is also the most efficient way to establish your look for the season. “The coat sets your personality,” said Ms. Patel. “It’s what people notice first in the cold weather.” This season offered a broad and stylish cast of characters, from Hermès’s modern bourgeois madame (a chestnut cashmere coat with calfskin and lambskin stripes) to Prada’s noirish femme fatale (charcoal wool with glossy sequins). If you’re not looking for drama, invest in an updated bluechip classic, like Ralph Lauren’s flared-hem pea coat or Max Mara’s teddy-bear-ish camel coat. Those who don’t like thinking ahead, take heart. The next big thing bubbling up in the fashion industry is “buy-now-wear-now”— which means delivering clothes when shoppers actually need them. Ex-Jimmy Choo CEO Tamara Mellon recently launched a mid-priced label under her own name that aims to do just that by forgoing the six-month-prior fashion show and sending monthly shipments of season-appropriate merchandise to her own stores and website. Until this new model becomes the norm, you’ll need to get on the ball. As for me, those wish list items haven’t entered the shopping cart yet. But it won’t be long. Carrara Camel Alpaca and Mohair Teddy Bear Coat, $3,250, Max Mara, 212-879-6100 The Row Hunter Green Coat, $2,150, Saks Fifth Avenue, 212-753-4000 FRESH PICKS GOLDEN AGE ‘EDITORS ARE ALWAYS fascinated with designing,” said Jennifer Alfano, a writer and editor who’s covered fashion for the likes of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue for over 20 years. “We search for the thing we can’t find; then think to ourselves, ‘Maybe I could fill that hole.’ ” Ms. Alfano created a line of handbags in 2006 that sold well until the economy turned sour. Now, she’s launched a small collection of jewelry that she hopes will last: a glamorous and decidedly not-schlocky take on the birthstone pendant. The pendants are hammered 18k gold discs—about the size of a quarter—set with a birthstone in the center. They can be hand-engraved with a date on the back. The pendants are made to wear alone, in multiples or layered with other charms. Ms. Alfano wears her own birthstone pendant on a chain with a monogram-charm from her mother and a Victorian diamond pendant. She’ll also wear two pendants on separate chains with her daughters’ stones and dates. “I wanted something sentimental,” she said. “The idea is that you can get your own birth date, your boyfriend’s, your kids’, your dog’s.” The pendants and chains are sold on Ms. Alfano’s website, where she’ll also blog about fashion. “I can’t shut up about fashion,” she said, “I’ve written about it for so long.” —Megan Buerger Turquoise (December) and Ruby (July) Birthstone Pendants, $1,230 and $1,300, and Chains, between $900 and $1,500, all available at jenniferalfano.com Patrick Dempsey wears TiTan MiniMal arT. The icon. www.silhouette.com | visit us on available at fine optical retailers worldwide | 1-800-223-0180 P2JW222000-4-D00300-1--------XA Composite MAGENTA BLACK CYAN YELLOW F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal A new collection of birthstone pendants turns a novelty item into a future heirloom