Arizona Wine Country - Verde Valley Wine Trail

Explore Arizona's Vineyards, Wineries and Tasting Rooms
Plus: Weekend Travel Tips and Restaurants
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~:/s¥!'ah'.vih:~s. In .19 9'0, there were five licensed wineries
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an ~dditional tourism boon to the state's three
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regions.
Similar but distinct, these high,
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country
hotspots
each present a dreamy fall drive.
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The Verde
up to its
nombre: An expansive canvas of greenery stretches as far as the eye can see,
interrupted only by the quirky, colorful
buildings of Jerome, the misted purple
jewels of grapes dotting vineyards, and
the cloud-dappled blue sky that feels
more immediate than in the Valley of the
Sun 100 miles south. Home to well-known
Arizona labels like Page Springs Cellars,
Arizona Stronghold and Caduceus, Verde
Valley is the most amenity-oriented of
Arizona's three growing regions, with a
lively nightlife scene in Old Town Cottonwood and sundry art galleries and B&Bs
in Jerome. It's also the closest and most
accessible to the Valley - roughly a twohour drive from Downtown Phoenix.
Located about 45 minutes southeast
of Tucson, Sonoita is the only wine
grape-growing region in the state to
be officially designated an American
Viticultural Area CAVA). Deemed one of
the top 10 wine trails in the United States
by USA Today, it also boasts the densest
cluster of wineries and tasting rooms of
Arizona ~ s three growing regions, making
it perfect for visitors who want to experience the straw-colored agrarian beauty
of the high desert on bike or foot. Home
to award-winning labels like Callaghan
Vineyards and Kief-Joshua, Sonoita
- along with the nearby town of Elgin also boasts perhaps.Arizona's premier
wine-country restaurant: Overland Trout.
The most rustic and remote of Arizona's
three wine regions, Willcox also holds
the most potential for growth. Sitting on
roughly 400 square miles of loamy farmland about an hour east of Tucson, the
region produces the majority of Arizona's
wine grapes, much of which is shipped to
the Verde Valley and other northern wineries. Home to Pillsbury Wine Company,
Sand-Reckoner, Keeling-Schaefer and
roughly a dozen other up-and-coming
wineries, Willcox is just beginning to develop its own winemaking infrastructure
- along with the high-end restaurants,
guesthouses and entertainment options
that locals hope will transform the region
into a weekend hotspot for Valley folk.
Valley~~~s
Terms to Know:
• WINE SPECTATOR SCORE: The dominant benchmark for wine quality in the industry. Burning Tree Cell
Page Springs Cellars were the first Arizona wineries to achieve 90 scores, both with .2010 vintage Syrahs.
• TERROIR: All Arizona wineries make Arizona wine. But not all use grapes sourced.from Arizona vineyards.
Deemed the single most important value by many winemakers, "terroir" refers to the qualities in a wine impart d by
the soil. Thus, we've attempted to note which wineries chiefly source from Arizona vineyards whenever possibl .
94
SEPTEMBER 20 14 Phoenix Magazine
•
:es. in the
The VERDE VALLEY encompasses 714 squ
geographic heartland of Arizona, bisected an
~~hed by
the Verde River as well as Oak Creek, Beaver Cr e
Canyon and West Clear Creek. Comprising some
and tasting rooms, the region is conveniently 1ayed o.
of the l-17, about 90 minutes north of Phoenix.
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OTHERS NEARBY:
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[not on map]
<f'we ~ CWme & q;~
312 W. Pheasant Run Circle,
Camp Verde, 928-567-2162
~~/:P~:b~~rnville,
stagestopvineyards.com
f£cfw ~ qJiMuaJui & G)M·
3222 N. Eclio
928-634-8122
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SEPTEMBER 2014 Phoenix Magazine
Canyon~d., Cornvill~
Getting started. The life-giving waters, hot days and cooler nights, ~ineral-dense
soil (from volcanic ash to sandy loam), and diverse geography distinguish the Verde Valley
from its southern wine country brethren. The region's winemakers and wine aficionados
range from Tool frontman Maynard James Keenan to former high-tech titans like Bob and
Barbara Predmore. They all characterize the terroir as mineral-rich- "like lickingwet slate,"
says Marissa Gagliardi, a winemaker at Page Springs -with a balanced structure and acidity.
MORE ON . TERROIR. Grapes accustomed to long, warm seasons do well in Arizona high country. Three that especially thrive
in the Verde Valley:
.
·'l
.
CABERNET: Originally a Bordeaux varietal, grows well in the limestone-rich soil of
France. The Verde Valley has similar soil.
SANGI~~SE:
. An ·Italian ·varietal that
lends itself to a variety·of styles, from dry roses
to rich, hearty and dark blends.
RHONE VARIETAIS: Syrah, Grenache,
Mourvedre and other varietals from this wine
region in the south of France stand alone as
individual varietals and make terrific blends.
WINE PASSPORT. Arizona Stronghold,
Page Springs Cellars and Burning Tree Cel·
lars have collaborated on a "passport" pro•
gram, launched this summer. Visit the three
tasting rooms and buy a bottle of wine at
each to get your passport stamped. After
completing the wine-tasting troika, you get
a llmlted·edltlon passport T-shirt.
PAINTED BARRELS.
Art and wine collide
in Painted Barrels, the
Cottonwood Chamber
of Commerce's public
art exhibit and charity
fundraiser. Local winemakers donate empty
barrels for local artists
to paint and embellish
- past barrels have included everything from
pastoral, wine-centric
landscapes to Native
American history to a
bedazzled barrel drip·
ping with rhinestones.
After being displayed
throughout the Verde
Valley, the barrels are
auctioned off, with
proceeds benefiting
the viticulture program
at Yavapai College.
vvwinetrail.com/painted_ barrels
WINE-UCATION. For those who
doubt Arizona's ability to become a
national wine destination, we present:
the Southwest Wine Center. The SWC
Is an extension of Yavapai College's
vltlculture and enology programs, In
which students wlll put the theory and
classic education of grape-growing and
wlnemaklng Into practical application.
They'll grow, harvest, ferment, age,
bottle and then serve and sell wine at
the swc•s state-of-the-art faclllty adJa·
· cent to the school's vineyard, complete
with crush pad, testing lab and kitchen
for preparing tasting room treats. The
coolest feature: the tasting room's mas·
slve, Industrial-chic wall made of staves
sourced from barrels palnstaklngly
deconstructed by the vltlculture and
enology staff and students. The SWC
will debut its new faclllty with an open·
Ing gala on October 18.
601 Black Hiiis Or., Clarkdale,
928·634·7501, vltlcu/ture.yc.edu
Phoenix Magazine SEPTEMBER 201 4
97
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TASTING ROOMS
_</ave£ina :£~ G\/in£J11nh~
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Est:1999
1565 Page
928-649-2681,javelinaleapwinery.com
Husband-and-wife team Rod and Cynthia Snapp are pioneers of
·Arizona wine. For them, wine is part of"the ever-evolving masterpiece
of life," Cynthia says. Their tasting room gleams with dark wood, with
Neil Young and Joni Mitchell tracks providing a soundtrack for sipping. A selection of local jams, jellies and mustards (try the coffeeand sage-infused one) showcases partners for your wine souvenirs.
Order a cheese plate, pizza and chocolate volcano cake to eat out on
the shaded patio or picnic in the vineyard. Cabanas for group events
are on the horizon, Snapp says. Tasting room hours: Daily 11 a.m.-5
p.m. Tastings: $8 for four; premium tastings $3 each.
Wines to try: 2013 Chenin blanc, smoothly citric and crisp;
2012 Merlot, fruity and full-bodied with a hint of spice.
1555 Page Springs Rd., 928-6
Est:2002
Owner Deb Wahl was a wine broker for 30 years before she took
the plunge and started her own vineyard. Oak Creek is perhaps the
most accessible tasting room for newbies, with a rectangular bar
staffed by casual, enthusiastic young servers. It's the ideal winery
for a girls' trip - you can shop for blinged-out bottle openers, DIY
cheese plates and sundry vino-centric tchotchkes while you sip the
house-made sangria and do wine and chocolate pairings. "We want
people to feel comfortable, have fun and drink what they like," Wahl
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SEPTEMBER 2014 Phoenix Magazine
says. All her wines are aged in steel rather than oak. Tasting room
hours: Daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Tastings: $10 for five.
Wines to try: 2013 Chardonnay, crisp pear notes with a hint
of pineapple; 2012 Zinfandel, a reserve and Wahl's "pet, my baby."
ra~e ~8~gespringscel/ars.com
Est: 2003
Arizona wine icon Eric Glomski has created a Shangri-La anyone
would be happy to get lost in for a day. The tranquil triclde ofOalr Creek
is the soundtrack for an experience at Page Springs, whether you tour
the lush vineyards, drink in the swanky tasting room, or enjoy a yoga
class or massage with Glomski's wife Gayle in the vineyard. Glomski
and his "tribe," as winemalrer Marissa Gagliardi describes the wine
community at Page Springs and the Verde Valley at large, share a commitment to local that extends to the Arizona oalr they use in their aging
barrels. Tasting room hours: M-W 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Thu-Su 11 a.m.-9
p.m. Tastings: $10 for five, plus a souvenir wine glass.
Wmes to try: 2012 Ecips, a blend of Counoise, Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache, with an elegant spiciness; 2013 Vmo de la Familia Blanca, a Malvasia Bianca/Marsanne blend with fruity and floral
notes.
A
W
&Wt·
3455 S. Grapevine Way, 928-6
-8463,
alcantaravine~
Est: 200S
Barbara Predmore glows when she talks about wine and her vineyard, named in honor of her maternal grandmother Dolores " Lola"
Alcantara. Family is first at Alcantara - Barbara owns the vineyard with
her husband Bob, and their son Brian left a career in architecture to
help run the place. "It's all about family, faith, that the land you use
can become sustainable, and that you can use the land and your efforts to benefit others," Predmore says. The vineyard, situated on the
confluence of the Verde River and Oalc Creek, has a romantic European feel. In fact, there's a chapel on the grounds used for weddings,
and the Predmores have plans to expand the property to include a bed
and brealaast. It's also pet-friendly, and the Predmores' Chesapeake
Bay retriever rescue, Charlie Brown, greets guests most days. Tasting
room hours: Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tastings: $10 for five; VIP: $15.
Wines to try: 2012 Pinot Grigio, bright, floral, acidic; 2011
Confluence V, medium-bodied red blend, with aromas of chocolate, currants, cranberries and che rries.
Arguably the winery that put Arizona wine on the map, Arizona
Stronghold emerged from a collaboration between Maynard James
Keenan and Eric Glomski. They dissolved their partnership in May,
with Keenan walking away with Arizona Stronghold's southern Ari-
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SEPTEMBER 2014 Phoenix Magazine
zona vineyard, which he renamed the Al Buhl Memorial Vineyard
after the Arizona wine pioneer. Glomski kept the winery in Camp
Verde and rights to the brand. Despite the "divorce," the wines are
still on-point. Tasting room hours: Su-Th 12 p.m.-7 p.m., F-Sa 12
p.m.-9 p.m. Tastings: $9 for five.
Wines to try: 2011 ASV Mangus, Tuscan-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, fruit-forward, rustic; 2011
ASVTazi, flowery, aromatic and mineral-rich white blend.
~~9~B~e~el/an.com
Est:
200'2'
.
Corey Turnbull and Mitch Levy's boutique tasting room is exclusive without being pretentious. No, you won't find their wines at your
nearest Whole Foods -you have to come to them to taste it. The journey is worth it for the sense of place you get while drinking their wine
in their sophisticated but not stuffy tasting room. We dig the labels
depicting Turnbull, Levy and consigliere Phil Brown in old-fashioned
portraits. "This is the first and last time you'll see a Jewish monk!"
Levy jokes of his immortalization on the label of 2012's The Abbot, a
"big, brooding Bordeaux." Tasting room hours: Su-Thu 12 p.m.-6
p.m.; F-Sa 12 p.m.-9 p.m. Tastings: $10 for five, including souvenir
glass.
Wines to try: 2012 The Matriarch, tropical and nutty Chardonnay, with hints of roasted marshmallow. The titular matriarch is the
elephant on jhe label - a framed print of her also overlooks the tasting room; 2012 The Archer, a Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon
blend with cherry, cranbeny, tobacco and sandalwood flavors, and
lilac tones.
Alcantara Vineyard &
Winery, and opposite
Phil Brown at
Burning Tree "
Cellars
1010 N. Main St., 928-649-9135, firemountainwines.com
Est:20U
Fire Mountain Wines has the distinction of being the only Native American majority-owned winery in the region, and one offew
in the country. They proudly employ three members of the YavapaiApache nation and sell tribal member-made art and goods. "Fire
Mountain" is a reference to the transition between day and night,
when the sun sets on the mountains and ·sets the landscape on
metaphorical fire. The symbolism extends to the grapes they grow,
for in order to thrive, the grapes must struggle between the high
temperatures of the day and the low temperatures of night. The fire
represents their growth and rebirth amid struggle. Tasting room
hours: Su-Th 12 p.m.-5 p.m.; F-Sa 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tastings: $3 for
three; $9 for five; $12 for three with chocolate pairing.
Wines to try: 2012 Fire, a red .blend with cherry, blackberry
and tart red plum and pomegranate notes; 2010 Wind, a Viognier
and Grenache blanc blend evoking the scents of wildflowers, freshly cut grass and white peaches.
~~2~~6,plll•bu'
Est: 2010
The northern outpost of winemaker Sam Pillsbury's Willcoxbased vineyard and winery (see page 120). Tasting room hours:
Su-Th 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; F-Sa 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tastings: $10 for five; add
$2.50 for souvenir glass.
!~.~~-2~~~com
Est:
2013
Four Eight Wineworks, a reference to Arizona's position as the 48th state to enter the union, is Arizona's first
and only winemakers' co-operative. The co-op, housed
in Clarkdale's old National Bank building, is yet another
brainchild of Maynard James Keenan and bills itself as
"Incubator. Passion vortex. Metaphorical leg up." Winemakers without the resources to purchase and run their
own vineyard can grow, make and sell their wine through
Four Eight's Camp Verde vineyard with the support of an
existing infrastructure. The result? Unfettered creativity
and risk-taking, with deliciously drinkable and affordable rewards for tasting room visitors. They also have a
selection oflocal beers on tap. Tasting room hours: 12
p.m.-7 p.m.-"ish." Tastings: $12 for five; choose from
four themed flights.
Wines to try:
Chateau Tumbleweed - 2013 The Descendants,
buttery, crisp, balanced Viognier and Verdelho blend.
Iniquus Cellars - 2010 Merum, mostly Syrah with
a bit ofMalbec, velvety with a hint of spice, enveloping.
Saeculum Cellars - 2012 Rose, Zinfandel Sangiovese, light, r"efreshing, intriguing.
Four Eight Wineworks - 2012 Arizona Red Wine,
perfectly balanced, fruit-forward and full.
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SEPTEMBER 2014 Phoenix Magazine
~1133
158 Main St., 928-639-9463, caduceus.org
Est: 200'-i
The urban, industrial-chic decor of Maynard James Keenan's tasting room for his Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vmeyards belies the
genuine, small-town hospitality of his staff.A selection ofArizona food
products and local merchandise, from Hayden Mills flour to Puscifer
coffee, shows Keenan's commitment to local on every level. Caduceus
also supplies the most thorough, amusing and literary tasting notes
of any winery we visited. The 2011 Sancha is "savory, confident and
nervy." The 2011 Kitsune "opens up as if a cherry pie just came out of
the oven." Tasting room manager Brian Sullivan regaled us with more
fanciful descriptions penned by a past staffer. Our favorite: A wine
tasted like "how Brigitte Bardot would wear a bow." Tasting room
hours: Su-Th 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; F-Sa 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Coffee and Italian
espresso hours: 8 a.m.-12 p.m. daily. Tastings: $7·$13 for four.
Wines to try: 2012 Lei Li Nebbiolo Rose, sweetly fruity and
tropical, floral, named for Keenan's wife; 2012 Anubis, aromatic,
intense, spicy, smok}r, cocoa and raspberry notes, a mix of Cabernet
.
Sauvignon, Cabernet franc and petite sirah.
240 Hull Ave., 928-634-7033, cellar433.com
Est: 2006
John McLaughlin's Dragoon Mountain Vineyard near Willcox
supplies the wine for this bright, cheery tasting room. Head upstairs for spectacular views of the Verde Valley and the blazing russet rocks of Sedona. Tasting room hours: M-W11 a.m.-5 p.m.; ThSu 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tastings: $10 for four or $12 for six.
Wines to try: Sultry Cellars - 2011 Seductive, Riesling and
Marsanne blend, sweet, crisp, honeyed apple; Dribble Creek 2011 Sommelier, a red blend with a peppery fruitiness.
417 Hull Ave., 928-649-9800, passioncellars.com
Est: 2013
The northern outpost of the Willcox vineyard and winery. Tasting
room hours: Su-Th 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; F-Sa 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tastings: $9$17, depending on type and inclusion oflogo glass.
Wmes to try: 2012 Black Hills Zin, spicy and jammy, with prominent cardamom, clove and fennel; 2012 Jerome White, a Cherrin
blanc-Malvasia Bianca blend, dry, subtly fruity, hint of mint and spice.·
SNEAK PEEK: REVELATION WINES
While It might be a stretch to compare Revelation Wines to Cream or the Highwaymen, there's definitely a supergroup
element to this new project, Old Town Cottonwood's first ln•town winery. The five owners - Tim White, Paula Woolsey,
Lisa Rhodes, Tom Schumacher and Scott Havice - are legends In the Verde Valley and beyond. For example: White was the
Inaugural winemaker for Arizona Stronghold and earned Arizona's first and only Double Gold at San Francisco's International
Wine Competition. Woolsey - current V.P. of the Verde Valley Wine Consortium and former business manager for rlzona
Stronghold - assembled the dream team and Is converting an old church to house their Winery and tasting room, slated to
open by the end of 2014. Previews of the wine labels reveal cheeky homage to their holy location: "Our Lady of Question·
able Decisions" Is one of their debut wines. 102 E. Pima St., Cottonwood, 928·593·9694, revelatlonwlnes.com
Phoenix Magazine SEPTEMBER
2014103
ERDE VALLEY TRAVEL GUIDE
EAT: Old Town Cottonwood is a bonanza of delicious dining
options - and you don't even have to leave Main Street. Crema Cafe
(917 N. Main St., 928-649-5785, cremacafe89a.com) serves breakfast, lunch, coffee and gelato that marry Southwestern flavors with
European sophistication, like smoked turkey and green chile in a
demi-baguette, red chile-glazed bacon and local fig gelato. Pizzeria Bocce (1060 N. Main St., 928-202-3597, pizzeriabocce.com)
made PHOENIX magazine's list of Arizona's 50 Best Restaurants in
2014, and for good reason: wood-fired pies, scrumptious salads,
clever cocktails and gluttonous desserts make Bocce and its sleek
outdoor patio the place to be. Another best restam;ant nod went to
SchoolHouse (202 N. Main St., 928-634-0700, vvschoolhouse.com),
where chef Christopher Dobrowolski's innovative takes on global
comfort food are served with a side of charity: When a local restaurateur skipped town and left employees with bounced paychecks,
Dobrowolski and wife Laura donated a portion of their sales to ensure the employees were compensated.
PLAY: Get in touch with Cottonwood's agricultural roots
with a tractor pull, ropin' lessons, live music and cowboy poetry at
Blazin' M Ranch (1875 Mabery Ranch Rd., 928-634-0334, blazinm.
com). If shopping is more your style, explore Old Town Cottonwood's antique, secondhand and local goods shops. Verde Valley
Olive Oil Traders (1002 N. Main St., 928-634-9900, vvoliveoil.com)
offers free tastings of flavored olive oils and balsamic vinegars. Local chefs host BYOB cooking demos in the store twice a month, so
you can bring a bottle of local wine and enjoy a meal of four to five
small plates for $15.
STAY: Originally built as a grocery store in
1925, The Tavern Hotel (904 N. Main St., 928639-1669, thetavemhotel.com) now houses 10
guest rooms, a two-bedroom cottage and an adjacent bar and restaurant, The Tavern Grille. For
a luxe B&B experience, Desert Rose (4190 E. Bridle Path Rd., 928-646-0236, desertrosebandb.com)
offers mini-fridges in every room - all the better
to tote home your leftovers from Cottonwood's
great restaurants. Both hotels offer wine tasting
and Verde Valley Railroad packages, so inquire
when you book for bonus savings.
EAT: If you crave cocktails served in Mason
jars and Southern favorites, Nate's Cowboy Cafe
{1481 W. Highway 89A, 928-639-3838, natescowboycafe.com) will wet your whistle and fry your
chicken - not to mention some frog legs, the Friday night special. For comida mexicana, head to
Su Casa (1000 Main St., 928-634-2771) for chiles
, rellenos and cactus fries.
PLAY: After tasting, touring and witnessing
how wine is made today, travel back in time with
the antique stills and harvesting equipment used
to make wine, beer and spirits decades ago at the
Copper Art Museum (849 Main St., 928-6491858, copperartmuseum.com). The museum, which
104
SEPTEMBER 2014 Phoenix Magazine
is located in the old Clarkdale High School building, won the 2014
Arizona Governor's Tourism Award. The company-planned town of
Clarkdale is a destination in itself - walk its maze of sidewalks and
marvel at the company-planned houses and quaint, small-town
landmarks like the gazebo and town square.
STAY: Eco-savvy tourists flock to Candlewood at Mescal
Canyon Retreat (1550 Abbey Rd. South, 928-634-2067, mescalcanyonretreat.com), a solar-powered B&B surrounded by National Forest and organic permaculture.
EAT: If you're not staying at a B&B, head to The Flatiron (416
Main St., 928-634-2733, thejlatironjerome.com) for an organic, locally
sourced breakfast and Firecreek Coffee Company's Boxcar Espresso
blend. Enjoy a haunting lunch or dinner at The Asylum (200 Hill St.,
928-639-3197, theasylum.biz) or a casual family meal at the Haunted Hamburger (410 Clark St., 928-634-0554 thehauntedhamburger.
com), which celebrates its 20th year in Jerome this year.
PLAY: A visit to Arizona's most haunted town wouldn't be
complete without a ghost tour, and there's no better guide than historian Ronne Roope and his Tours of Jerome (toursofjerome.com)
guides. Choose from three haunted tours, three wine tours and
three historic tours, or a custom tour. Keep it quirky on your own
walking tour of Jerome by visiting two shops alike in weirdness but
on opposite sides of the taste spectrum. Mooey Christmas and
Udder Things (111 Jerome Ave., 928-634-2604, mooeychristmas.
com) is a year-round Christmas shop that out-wholesomes the
Cleavers. Just up the hill is Maynard James Keenan's Puscifer (403
N. Clark St., 928-639-3516, puscife1:com) store, a
brick-and-mortar expression of his side project
and "creative subconscious" of the same name.
The shop is like Spencer's on acid, stocking everything from Puscifer LPs and posters to "Viva
La Vulva" tees and a racy "Mile High Kit."
STAY: Jerome has no shortage of historical,
haunted hotels and shabby chic B&Bs. The Ghost
City Inn (541 Main St./Hwy 89A, 928-634-4678,
ghostcityinn.com) was an 1890s boarding house
for copper miners in the "Ghost City." Hillside
House (687 Main St., 928-821-2412, hillsidehousejeromeaz.com) was built in 1904 by a former
saloon keeper. But to experience the truly eccentric splendor of a Jerome B&B, we recommend a
stay at The Surgeon's House (100 Hill St., 928639-1452, surgeonshouse.com), built in 1916 for
Jerome's chief surgeon. It's now run by Andrea
Prince, who has lovingly restored the rooms (including maid's and chauffeur's quarters), decks
and gardens of the house to reflect their storied
history, incorporating art, books and mementos
she's collected. Her koi pond is filled with sassy
celebrities - Emily Post and Frank Sinatra have
aquatic namesakes - and she proudly displays
guests' art. All this, plus she makes a mean breakfast: for our stay, it was poached salmon, roasted
asparagus with sesame oil, corn and roasted tomato strata, aioli, three kinds of salsa, coconut
scones, cornbread, fruit and more.