An Extra Shot! - Peru this Week
Transcription
An Extra Shot! - Peru this Week
LIVING IN PERU An Extra Shot www.livinginperu.com Starbucks Starbucks and EnseñaPerú team up for a noble cause [8] April 2016 - Issue 8 Lima - Cusco LIVING IN Buzz PERU Election month means one thing: Ley Seca [2] A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A LIVING LEGEND [5] PISCO SOURS: OVERRATED? We ask an icon [3] CALLAO The good, the rad, and the must -sees [10] FASHIONABLY TRADITIONAL [4] Chivalry is dead WHO WALKS ON 4 LEGS 6YPZP[&9LÅLJ[PUNVUHUH]HSOLYV\WVUHZWLJPHSHUUP]LYZHY` MVY7LY\»ZZLHWVY[HUKHSVVRH[ZVTLVM[VKH`»ZUVISLZ[TLU [9] YET REMAINS DISTINGUISHED? [7] [10] This paper is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources -XX-XX April 2016 - Issue 8 2 Welcome to An Extra Shot! From the editor Meet the team Ladies and gentleman, are you out there? Carsten Korch - Founder of Living in Peru Natasha Clay - The Buzz, Lifestyle Hillary Ojeda - Food, Art & Culture Agnes Rivera - Travel Sheila Christensen Jeanneau - Contributor Karen Darricades - Contributor Helena María von Schuler - Contributor Contributing photographers: Yamil Alvarez, Erick Andia, Fernando Criollo, Prin Rodriguez Eduardo Rivera - Contributing designer, Cover Julio Cesar Vergara - Graphic designer Isabel Cáceda Mendoza - Graphic designer Silvana Loloy - Marketing and Sales As the past few months have been polluted with presidential campaigns and the airing out of frontrunners’ dirty laundry, we felt it was time to clean up the act. Don’t call us prude, we just don’t want to dirty ourselves any more than the occasional cookie crumb while enjoying a cup of coffee. Our hats go off to those who refuse to give up on a dying tradition and those who aren’t afraid to push forward for the betterment of others. For us, it’s never a matter of ‘out with the old, in with the new’. Rather, it’s all about making a better tomorrow, today. And it all begins with learning a bit about the past. Want to see our previous issues and keep up with those to come? Scan the code, it’s our gift to you. Who says chivalry is dead? Agnes Rivera Editor Subscribe! Always on the go? So is Living in Peru! Take us with you wherever you may be: the office, the rain forest, an airport bathroom stall (sometimes being interesting has its price). Sign up for the daily digital newsletter today and stay informed, stay entertained, and stay connected! Visit us at livinginperu.com Want your business to appear in our next issue? Contact [email protected] Have a question, comment, or simply want to spam our inbox? [email protected] Living in Peru Livinginperu @Living.in.Peru The Buzz El Caballero de los Mares was and still is renowned Peruvian naval officer Miguel Grau’s nickname during the War of the Pacific. Learn more about the hero of the Naval Battle of Angamos on pg. 9 Did you know that the Amazon river was named after the female warriors referenced in Greek mythology? Called Amazonas, the warriors possessed such courage and a rallying cry that it generated fear among opponents. Created in 1958 the Peruvian Naval Museum and Submarine Abtao can be found in Callao and includes relics of the famous Miguel Grau. Originally named “Tiburón,” the submarine was launched into sea in 1953, and would later be renamed in tribute to the 1866 naval war in front of Abtao, Chile. Space spuds a thing of the future? That’s right, 100 Peruvian potatoes have become the chosen ones to make the journey to Mars for potential growth purposes. Forty of the spuds are native and 60 are genetically improved. The first railway of South America was inaugurated in Peru in 1851 during the presidency of Ramón Castilla. Engineer John England would lead the construction of the 14km railway, uniting the city of Lima to Callao. Got beer on your mind? Pilsen was the first beer to be elaborated in Peru during 1863 in Saenz Peña, Callao. Just remember, come April 9th until the 11th, Peru will be under “Ley seca” for the presidential elections. Afterwards you’re welcome to enjoy a brew by the beaches of Callao or any region of Peru. Located in the Pacific Ocean near the coast of Callao, the Frontón island is located to the Southeast of La Punta. During the presidency of Jóse Pardo (1915 - 1919) a prison was constructed on the island for highly dangerous convicts. #keepitintheground As the oil spills expand in Peru, celebrities like Leonardo DiCaprio are trying to help the Amazon by bringing awareness through social media. Tag us @ Living.in.Peru Hurrah! In Northern Lambayeque the Spectacled bear population has doubled. This fragile species is on the right path to avoiding extinction. Cusco’s traditional polleras meet modern day fashion. See what clothing line is making a colorful splash on pg. 4 Natasha Clay April 2016 - Issue 8 BEYOND PISCO SOURS: Top mixologist raises the bar Aaron Diaz, one of Peru’s top barmasters, invites us to reconsider the standard cocktail and try a new liquid experience. Just one thing: leave that ego at home. T he initial phases of World Class Peru, the national edition of the most important cocktail contest in the world, have kicked off. Who’s responsible for honing the skills of some of the best that Peru has to offer behind the bar? Meet Aaron Diaz, 2014 winner of El Comercio’s Luces Award for Best Bartender and judge of various bar championships, including previous editions of World Class. Diaz has become a leader for mixologists in Peru and throughout Latin America, having gained bartending experience at internationally renowned bars (The Aviary in Chicago, Moskovsky Bar in Moscow) as well as directed national standouts (Casa Moreyra of Lima’s Astrid y Gaston). After living in international cities such as Brazzaville (Congo), Santiago (Chile), Miami and Chicago (USA), Aaron returned to Lima, Peru with a new perspective, refined taste, and a passion to teach. Currently leading the Conceptual Cocktail project, Aaron is proud to say that not just one but three members of his team will represent in the 2016 edition of World Class Peru: Luis Obregon, Frank Alvarado and Alonso Palomino. Although Aaron notes that World Class “has made the bartending level rise in Peru,” he admits that bartenders both on and off the stage are guilty of mistakes that keep them from becoming one of the “best”. “Lack of product knowledge, language, and technique when preparing cocktails,” the bar-guru lists off, when asked to specify what these blunders can be. “It’s largely due to inexperience. Today, many consider themselves bartenders, but few consider or value the experience that is vital to command a team of bartenders through example and other virtues.” “ AROUND THE WORLD PERU HAS BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH ‘PISCO SOUR’. PERSONALLY, I THINK THE CHILCANO OR CAPITAN ARE MORE BALANCED COCKTAILS. “ SPOTLIGHT 3 So to be the best you have to believe you’re the best, right? According to Aaron, that may not be the recipe for success. “Ego plays a crucial role in today’s competitions and can become the enemy of humility and even overshadow the professionalism of a bartender.” Aaron, who has been working in the culinary world since age 16 only to allow his curious instincts to take him behind the bar, is fully aware of how precious the Pisco sour is to Peru and how it’s viewed by the outside world. “Around the world Peru has become synonymous with ‘Pisco sour’. Personally, I think the Chilcano or Capitan are more balanced cocktails.” Ouch. What’s in store for Peru’s cocktail scene if one of the country’s iconic barmasters removes the national drink from its pedestal? “Peru is much more than a national cocktail. We have three natural regions that provide us with infinite products. With the right knowledge we could develop more unique flavors and national cocktails...The future of [Peru’s] cocktail bar lies in harnessing the country’s natural resources with knowledge.” Agnes Rivera Photo courtesy of Aaron Diaz April 2016 - Issue 8 4 FASHION FASHION POLICE: Saving an Andean tradition S eason after season fashion brands set out to create something new, more often opting for modern cuts and minimalism. What does this mean for traditional clothes that are full of color and decoration, each element full of meaning and value? Not to skirt the issue, Griela Perez set out to save the embroidered wear of Peru’s highlands from extinction. Her brand, Las Polleras de Agus, enjoyed its first exportation overseas to Spain last year and continues to sell to proud Peruvians and impressed foreigners. How did the project start? It was a beautiful coincidence. While living in Huanuco, in the highlands of Peru, I was walking through the market and noticed a piece of art: women embroidering polleras...I was pregnant at the time and I fantasized that my daughter [Agustina] would one day be able to wear one. The day I was able to find one small enough to fit her, I was so proud that I would dress her in the pollera to every party or gathering we would go to. It was a sensation! Today I feel satisfied not only with the artisans that we work with but with the outcome of the project, to be able to share with the world the beautiful art that Peru has to offer. Is Las Polleras de Agus only for young children? When we began, nearly a year and a half ago, we only sold polleras for young girls and babies. Due to popular demand, we then began to offer polleras for the mothers as well. Now we count with chalecos [vest], table runners, pillowcases and decorative blankets, bags and laptop covers, among other products. It’s important to us to not only innovate but to maintain the artistic work and quality of our artisans. It seems risky for a fashion brand to take influence from a tradition that is fading. Why do so? It’s our mission to rescue the typical dress of the Andes in order to create a boomerang effect. It’s only natural that fashion and style take influence from the surrounding environment, so if we can get these products to once again enter today’s closets, there’s a chance that polleras [and other traditional wear] will once again thrive in their place of origin - the Andes. Contact info: [email protected] QR CODE: A Cusco girl living in her own, goth-inspired world. This 20-something fashion designer wears polleras like you’ve never seen. Agnes Rivera Photos courtesy of Griela Perez POLLERA A combination of pre-Hispanic dress and the style enforced by European rule during colonial times, natives to the Andean region of Peru and Bolivia developed the polleras. These skirts are made of bayeta, a handwoven cloth made of sheepswool. Although they were once for daily wear, upon festivals and special occasions women would wear numerous skirts at once, creating a tiered rainbow of cloth around their waistline. Referred to as melkkhay in Quechua, the style of the full-bodied skirt can be an indicator of where the woman is from, as regions and communities will often share a similar pattern or color. April 2016 - Issue 8 5 ART & CULTURE AN AFTERNOON WITH A LIVING LEGEND Textile artist Maximo Laura invites us in for a tour around his studio in Lima. While in his gracious presence at his home in Lima, Peru, he gave me a tour of his office, home, studio and gallery as well as his artistic process. We looked at the works he had hanging in his own home, reflecting Ayahuasca visions and, as he so eloquently puts it, “magical realism”. His works have the storytelling complexity and humor of Hieronymus Bosch but with a more lighthearted sensibility. It is no wonder his work has appeared in every corner of the globe. From there we dove back into the inner-workings of his practice, walking through the many levels of his studio space. Rooms filled with yarn being spun, dyed and categorized by color and proudly shared by the many people that make up the Maximo village of artist assistants. Then onto the rooms of these same team members and mentees working on the looms guided by Maximo’s design templates, their skilled hands bringing these creations to life. “ THROUGH THE YEARS, I HAVE ALWAYS LIVED FOR WEAVING “ I first became familiar with the brilliant work of Maestro Maximo Laura in 2012 when his work was on exhibit in Canada, during The World of Threads festival, an international exhibition of contemporary fiber art I was also a part of. His works were so engrossing that I got lost in them and was actually 45 minutes late to my own opening. For the artist from Ayacucho and now termed a National Treasure of Peru, “work is nourished by symbols, stories, traditions, rituals, experiences, and by permanently returning to admire the iconography of ancestral world cultures, especially Peruvian cultures,” as expressed in his biography and apparent in his woven images. Lastly his assistant walked me over to a neighboring gallery space to enjoy more works after which our tour, sadly, had come to an end in his beautiful office. There, his library of art books gave more insight into the things that inspire his image-making practice. Even his office furniture is inspired by the same symbols as portrayed in his art (his entertainment station/ book shelf being in the shape of a chacana, or Inca Cross). I arrived that day a fan and left in awe of the extensive workmanship and organization it takes to realize his visions and was blown away by his humble and generous nature as an artist. Maximo Laura spearheads many other projects, festivals and artist networks that support traditional and contemporary textile arts; to learn more, including an internship opportunity with the artist, visit livinginperu.com. Visit Maximo’s museum in Cusco: Calle Carmen Alto 133, San Blas Karen Darricades Photos: Fernando Criollo, Prin Rodriguez April 2016 - Issue 8 6 EVENTS Peruvian literature is more than Mario Vargas Llosa W hen most think of Peruvian authors they think Mario Vargas Llosa. Nobel Prize winner, author of The War of the End of the World, among other novels, Vargas Llosa is considered one of the select few contemporary writers to have advanced Latin American literature to a global audience. In light of International Book Day this month, Living in Peru is dedicating a special place in An Extra Shot to reading and the legacy of Peruvian authors. And as it turns out, Vargas Llosa isn’t the only big shot in the country’s literary history. The first Peruvian writer to edge his way into gaining international recognition dates back to April 12, 1539, the birthdate of Inca Garcilaso de la Vega. Born to a Spanish conquistador and an Incan noblewoman in Cusco, De la Vega came into being in the tumultuous environment of the Spanish conquest. A product of two worlds--that of the Inca and of the Spanish--De la Vega described in great detail the daily lives of the Incas in The Royal Commentaries of Peru. He was the first to give the world an idea of the Incas’ cultural practices from their use of plant medicines to their complex ruling strategies. When he was 21 he moved to Spain, where he wrote volumes on the Incas, gaining a reputation as the first South American writer to reach widespread fame in Western literature. Not only that, but he paved the way for Peruvians to expand their horizons beyond South America. Just like Peruvian poet and artist Jorge Eduardo Eielson (April 13, 1924 – March 8, 2006). Born in Lima, Eielson was enchanted by travel, poetry and Peru’s pre-Columbian art. He grew up in the Peruvian capital, and later studied and worked in Paris and Switzerland before settling in Italy until his death. In addition to his literary work, he gained popularity for his use of kipus-knots used as recording and accounting devices in pre-Columbian Peru--in his art. And, today one of his most well-known poems, ‘Misterio’, can be found written on a house wall in Leiden, the Netherlands. It’s writers like De la Vega, Vargas Llosa and Eielson that are driven to describe the world they see through their eyes, telling stories that must be told and inspiring others, that we are proud to celebrate International Book Day and reading in Peru. The Living in Peru team isn’t alone in celebrating this special holiday. Go to your local bookstore or library to find out where read-a-thons, bookgiveaways, lectures and other activities will be happening throughout the country. The Casa de la Literatura Peruana, located in the Historic Center in Lima, will recognize Peruvian poet Leoncio Bueno with the Casa de la Literatura Peruana Award on Friday, April 22. And on Saturday, April 23, they’ll host a book exchange for children and adults and an inauguration of an installation about reading. At the Biblioteca Nacional del Peru, they have organized the inauguration of a cultural center in the Gran Biblioteca Publica de Lima in Abancay Avenue at block 4 in Cercado de Lima. Check out our calendar to read about more authors and holidays dedicated to literature. Calendar April April 2 International Children’s Book Day April 5 Coldplay British rock band Coldplay is performing live in concert in Peru for the first time. They are making their way through South America as part of their “A Head Full of Dreams Tour.” Estadio Nacional, Lima April 10 National Children’s Day April 12, 1539 Birth of Inca Garcilaso de la Vega Born of an Inca noblewoman and a Spanish conquistador, De la Vega is considered the first influential writer to be born in the Americas to gain widespread acclaim and influence around the world. He wrote primarily about Inca history, society and culture. April 13 Birth of Jorge Eduardo Eielson April 15 National Poetry Day April 15 International Art Day April 17 to 24 Week of Paso Horses Visit Hacienda Mamacona in Lurin, Lima, to take part in the annual Paso Horses competition. April 17 Laura Marling The British folk pop artist will set foot on Peru’s grounds for the first time to perform live in concert. Pentagonito Auditorium, Lima April 18 Anniversary of Chiclayo April 19 International Bike Day April 20/23 Maná Hailing from Guadalajara, Jalisco, Maná is a Mexican rock band formed in 1986. With too many awards to list and tens of millions of albums sold, they are considered one of the most successful Latin American bands of all time. On April 20 at the Estadio Nacional in Lima; and April 23 in Arequipa at the Jardin de la Cerveza April 22 Anniversary of the Constitutional Province of Callao Turn to our travel and social project sections to read about special events and the history of Lima’s neighbor. April 22 Anniversary of the Constitutional Province of Callao Turn to our travel and social project sections to read about special events and the history of Lima’s neighbor. April 22 International Earth Day April 23 MDO The Puerto Rican boy band is returning after five years. Suit up to listen to the soothing rhythms of Pablo Portillo, Didier Hernandez, Alexis Hernandez, Alexis Grullon, Daniel Rene, Lorenzo Duarte and Able Talamantez. Ampitheater of the Parque de la Exposicion, Lima April 23 International Book Day Go to your favorite bookstore or library and take part in a read-athon or a book-giveaway, what are you waiting for? April 23 International Spanish Day More appropriately ‘Dia del Idioma Castellano’, this day is dedicated to celebrating Spanish- speaking regions around the world. Peru is considered one of the best (in terms of clarity and vocabulary) Spanish-speaking countries in the world. April 23, 1616 400th anniversary of the death of Inca Garcilaso de la Vega April 25 Anniversary of Ayacucho April 27/30 Alejandro Sanz The Spanish singer-songwriter has won 15 Latin Grammy Awards and 3 Grammy Awards. Fans in Peru have two chances to see him, so don’t miss out! On April 27 at the Estadio Nacional in Lima; and April 30 at Estadio UNSA in Arequipa. April 30 International Jazz Day April 2016 - Issue 8 7 LIFESTYLE A BREED LIKE NO OTHER If you’re an animal lover and are interested in a unique experience, you may enjoy observing the majestic Peruvian Paso horse (Caballo de Paso) up close and personal. T his breed initially descended from the horses that the Spaniards brought to South America during the Spanish Conquest, beginning with the arrival of Francisco Pizarro in 1531. These horses were bred with Arabian stallions and raised in a desert environment which helped to form their gait and which gave rise to the Peruvian Paso horse. For approximately 400 years, the blood of this new breed was improved upon and bred in relative isolation, developing characteristics that have made it one of the world’s most beautiful and elegant breeds. Over time, Peruvian breeders have kept the bloodlines clean and have selectively bred primarily for gait, conformation and temperament. The main breeding of these horses takes place in Trujillo, Ica, and Lima. The trademark gait of this magnificent horse is what truly sets it apart from other horses. The Paso horse does not trot, but is distinguished by its unique, four-beat lateral gait (left hind, left fore, right hind, right fore) referred to as paso llano. Somewhere between a walk and canter, their gait is instinctive and natural and does not require extensive training. This unique rhythm allows this horse to be used in competitions and dance shows. Their gait has no vertical bounce as a trot would have and hence allows the rider a totally smooth ride in the saddle. The Peruvian Paso horse is typically medium-sized and usually stands between 14.1 and 15.2 hands tall, and is somewhat compact and muscular. They have deep chests and heavy necks and low set, quiet tails. The build of the horse is elegant and also powerful at the same time. There are a variety of coat colors such as bay, brown, black, buckskin, chestnut, gray, palomino, and the desired coats are grays, dark skin and solid coats. My personal favorites are palomino in color. An important trait of the Peruvian Paso horse is the brio, which is an intangible quality in regards to controlled energy and the spirit of this horse. It combines this spirit along with a bit of arrogance and the sense of always being on parade along with a willingness to please the rider. Brio lends itself to the elegance of this breed. Competitions are organized by the Association of Breeders and Owners of Peruvian Paso Horses. Two of the most important and best known events are the National Peruvian Paso Horse Competition (Concurso Nacional Oficial del Caballo Peruano de Paso) held in Pachacamac at the Mamacona Stables and the Internacional de la Primavera held in Trujillo. These competitions showcase the best 3 THINGS YOU MAY NOT KNOW: 1 The Peruvian Paso horse is the only naturally gaited breed of horse in the world that can guarantee its gait to 100% of its offspring. 2 The Peruvian Paso horse breed is protected by the Peruvian government through a decree enacted on November 28, 1992 (Decree Number 25919) and was declared a Cultural Heritage of the Nation by the National Institute of Culture. There are laws in place that restrict the export of the national champion horses. 3 They are known to be one of the world’s smoothest riding horses. Peruvian Paso horses and riders compete in various categories and demonstrate their abilities in these events. There are various haciendas which have tours and shows year-round which include folkloric musicians and dancers performing and interactively dancing with a few of the horses. Occasionally you will get the opportunity to observe an adorable foal that was born a few days prior. The majority of these haciendas are located in the Lurin area (approximately 19 miles or 30 kilometers south of Lima). A few of the more popular haciendas in this area are: Hacienda Mamacona, Hacienda Los Ficus and D’Paso Mamacona. The most upheld principle among Peruvian breeders is that these talented Peruvian Paso horses are born not trained. Sheila Christensen Jeanneau Photos courtesy of Diego Rizo Patrón 8 Publireportaje/Advertising Feature COFFEE CORNER A SHOT FOR EDUCATION! ¡UN SHOT POR LA EDUCACIÓN! Education is one of the key factors that generates development and economic growth in the community. That’s why, we have joined efforts with EnseñaPerú to be able to directly impact the children and young adults directly by granting them an excellent education. La educación es uno de los factores clave que genera desarrollo y crecimiento económico en la comunidad. Por eso, unimos esfuerzos con EnseñaPerú para impactar de manera directa en niños y jóvenes otorgándoles una educación de excelencia. CHRISTIAN BEDRIÑANA ESPINOZA, MARKET BUSINESS UNIT LEADER AT STARBUCKS, SPEAKS UPON EDUCATION/ EL GERENTE DE UNIDAD DE NEGOCIO DE STARBUCKS HABLE SOBRE LA EDUCACIÓN. What values do Starbucks and EnseñaPerú share? ¿Qué valores comparten Starbucks y EnseñaPerú? I think one thing in common between Starbucks and Creo que algo en común que encontramos en Starbucks y EnseñaPerú is the genuine desire to positively impact EnseñaPerú es el deseo genuino de impactar positivamente a las personas y transformar sus vidas. people and transform their lives. We know our brand and each of our stores are part of a community. That is why we are always looking to contribute in a positive way everywhere we do business, working to build union between partners and customers, cooperating one day at a time. Why is education important to you personally? Nosotros sabemos que nuestra marca y cada una de nuestras tiendas forman parte de una comunidad. Es por eso que siempre buscamos contribuir de forma positiva en los lugares donde hacemos negocios, trabajando por conseguir una unión entre partners y clientes, cooperando día a día. ¿Por qué la educación es importante para ti personalmente? I personally think that we all are part of a society; citizens Personalmente pienso que todos los que formamos parte and businesses are responsible for our country’s growth and de la sociedad; ciudadanos y empresas somos responsables del crecimiento de nuestro país y la educación es la base education is the basis so it can be sustainable over time. para que dicho crecimiento sea sostenible. Education is the fundamental tool through which human beings have the ability to grow as people and professionals. La educación es la herramienta fundamental a través de la With education, we have the ability to open eyes to the cual los seres humanos tenemos la posibilidad de crecer world, to question, to contribute, to discuss, to participate como personas y profesionales. Con educación, tenemos in building a stronger local and global community and la posibilidad de abrir los ojos al mundo, de cuestionar, de aportar, de discutir, de participar en la construcción de una leave that legacy for those to come. mejor comunidad local y global y dejar ese legado para los que vendrán. Did you do this event last year? What was the outcome? Christian Bedriñana Espinoza We have done this campaign for the past 6 years and the ¿Hicieron esto el año pasado? ¿Cuáles fueron los outcome is better every year. These kinds of results tell us resultados? how committed people are to education. Venimos haciendo estas actividades desde hace 6 años y los resultados son mejores cada año. Este tipo de resultados nos dice lo comprometida que está la gente con la educación. April 2016 - Issue 8 ICONS 9 An officer and a gentleman A timeline of standout events in Miguel Grau’s lifetime attest as to why the naval figure of yore, nicknamed the Gentleman of the Seas, is not to be forgotten. July 27 1834 Son of a Colombian father, Grau was born and raised in Piura, Peru, the region native to his mother. Having enrolled in the Paita Nautical School, Grau would first go to sea when just nine years old aboard a merchant ship. QR CODE: An honor or a horror: what happens when the great Admiral is visualized as a Japanese animation? 1853 Nineteen-year-old Grau became an officer candidate in the Peruvian Navy, keeping an impeccable reputation and outstanding work ethic that would see him quickly gain ranks. 1876 Who says all politicians are crooks? Grau was elected as part of Peru’s Congress of the Republic, where he would go on to represent Paita as a congressman. It’s said that his seat remains in congress to this day. Perhaps he could have been president someday... April 5 1879 One-hundred and thirty-seven years ago, the War of the Pacific began, a conflict that would leave a scar in the relation between Peru and Chile that is still visible to this day. At this time Grau took title of Commander of the Navy and was captain of Huáscar, a stealthy warship. March 21 1879 During the Battle of Iquique, Grau and his men aboard Huáscar were responsible for sinking a Chilean ship yet would go on to rescue the surviving opponents from drowning. Grau even wrote a letter of condolence to the widow of one of the befallen from Chile. Actions like these would give him the nickname el Caballero de los Mares, or Gentleman of the Seas. October 8 1879 In perhaps his most valiant effort, Grau led his men in the Battle of Angamos, proving he was fearless even if he was the underdog. Outnumbered by Chilean warships four to one, Grau lost his life and his men the battle; yet Peru continues to honor the hero every year on this date. 1967 Nine years after Grau’s remains were finally returned to his native country, he was posthumously declared Grand Admirable of Peru by the Peruvian Congress. Thirty-three years later he would be declared Peruvian of the Millennium by popular vote. And the legend lives on… let your future travels take you to the past with these must-visits: CALLAO: Museo Naval del Perú Avenida Jorge Chávez 123, Historical Center of Callao CENTRAL LIMA: Museo Naval Casa Grau Jirón Huancavelica 172, Lima PIURA: Casa Museo Del Almirante Miguel Grau Calle Tacna 662, Piura SEATTLE, WA, USA: Lake Forest Park A bust of the naval hero rests in this park, located in the city referred to as the Emerald City of the Pacific Northwest. The bronze piece was a gift from Peru consulates in 2011. A I MONUMENTAL CALLAO SOCIAL PRO ECTS V , W hen you think of Callao, you may question why someone would put a gallery in such an obscure and tough neighborhood. Why not add another to Barranco, Miraflores, or even central Lima? The only answer is Gil Shavit’s connection to the community and his desire to have a positive impact on the residents of Callao. C resides where C When you visit Monumental Callao and discover what this area was like just last year and what it has since become, you will come to understand that Gil Shavit, a humble and private man, is truly a visionary. “ C P Want to see exclusive pictures? NEIGHBORHOOD NOT ONLY EVOKES A PLACE, BUT AN IDEA “ Monumental Callao is a community organization created in 2015 with the intent to promote the development of an area in Callao through art. Once in a state of near abandonment, the community would be free of prejudice, classism, discrimination of religion and sexual orientation; an open community that allows each member the freedom to make art, for the love of art. “The idea is simpler than the challenge: We will turn Monumental Callao into a space with a distinct link between us and with us,” says Gil, explaining his vision. Callao has become the reflection of how the community, art, culture and investment can break paradigms, and will remind us that when things are done with love, problems become solutions; love cures everything.” “We are going to develop a place of coexistence between creativity and the environment that receives it. Monumental When he looked at what was there and what Monumental Callao would become, he had the following in mind: “Peru is full of people who make work with love and creating light. Ours is a proposal that seeks to attract that light, but to blind the differences...A space that embraces freedom with ‘neighborhood’. And the truth is, we like that word. Because in a neighborhood we are all,” says Gil. “Neighborhood not only evokes a place, but an idea: confidence, calm, home. And that’s what we’re going to bring back... without any limit rather than the respect and tolerance towards others.” All I can say is that is a visionary! To take old, run-down rubble and long forgotten buildings and turn it all into a megaplex for artists was a formidable task and yet, he pulled it off. Today we are looking at a giant art presence in Peru and all of South America. It is a city within a city, devoted to art and community and neighborhood. Helena Maria von Schuler Photos: Mirella Moschella Coello WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR AT MONUMENTAL CALLAO ART GALLERIES AND SPACES ART RESIDENCIES ART SCHOOL FASHION AND DESIGN STORES RESTAURANTS There are 10 galleries and spaces for artists to show their work. Spaces and galleries are tailored specific to the type of art shown from paintings, sculptures, art installations and street art, just to name a few. They have 15 residences in La Casa Valega (with green balconies this building is located between Jiron José Gálvez and Calle Independencia). They are exactly what any artist would need to complete projects and works; beautifully appointed, yet functional for the artist. Headquartered in the District of Miraflores, the Corriente Alterna school has an extension on the third floor of Casa Ronald in Monumental Callao. The school offers three educational areas of concentration: photography, painting and sculpture; with a capacity of 15 people for each class. Fashion and design is integral to any artist; Monumental Callao is no exception. They’re catering to artisans of the highest quality in Peruvian culture, but eclectic enough to fit in with the look of SoHo New York. When you go to Monumental Callao be prepared for a full day that will work up a hunger. Why not stop in and visit any of the cool and hip little restaurants with food that make Peru famous! You don’t have to leave the area to enjoy scrumptious food, from burgers to ramen. April 2016 - Issue 8 11 TRAVEL CALLAO, PERU’S SEAPORT REAL FELIPE FORTRESS Overlooking the harbor of Callao, the fortress of colonial times occupies numerous city blocks as its irregular pentagon shape spreads over some 70,000 square meters. Standing in front of the entrance on Plaza Independencia, nearby the Museo Naval del Peru (see Spotlight), the massive stone building can be quite intimidating - as it should. Built in the mid-18th century out of cut stone from the San Lorenzo island, Real Felipe was meant to protect Callao from pirates and looters; it would become the largest fortress built by the Spanish in a foreign land. Today it is often referred to as the Peruvian Army Museum, and tour guides will haunt you with ghost stories of prisoners from the past that lurk around the fortress. View towers and underground passageways, drawbridges over shallow ditches, and a museum full of relics such as weaponry and uniforms are enough to shrug off those phantomly fears and tour the a historic era of Peru. “ Entering this rainbow village could be enough to convince you you’re not in Callao anymore “ B etween the Andes of Peru and the Pacific Ocean, Callao was once Lima’s gateway to the world, offering a port to shuttle silver and gold. Europe and South America enjoyed trade relations thanks to the port city, and many immigrants (especially Italian) arrived to the Andean nation and settled on the coastline. This month, some 159 years ago on April 22, Callao was named a Constitutional Province, giving it some independence from it’s slightly (just 2 years) older sister, Lima. Today, chalacos (as residents of the port city are called) are a proud group of people, and with reason. Counting with seven districts, a historic center, colonial fortress and neighborhoods that have stood the test of time, Callao is like a well-travelled sailor: a few scars here and there (including a major tsunami in 1746), plenty of ink (see Social Project), and full of stories. Cast your anchor and test those sea legs as we share a few tales of modern day Callao, a city heavily influenced by its past. CHUCUITO This fishing district has been likened to the colorful, and culturally-significant barrio of Argentina, Caminito. And perhaps if you have just left the stone walls and muted tones of Real Felipe, entering this rainbow village could be enough to convince you you’re not in Callao anymore. Just a few years ago, in an attempt to brighten the look and reputation of this area, over 100 building fronts and homes in Chucuito were given a fresh coat of paint in a variety of colors. While this has been hailed as a work of art by some, others point out that historic buildings that hail from the days of Italian immigrants should not have been altered. Sandwiched between the city of Callao and La Punta, the first railway of South America made a stop in Chucuito when it was in operation during the later half of the 19th century. Italian immigrants. Take a walking tour around the district’s Plaza Galvez and observe the legacy left behind by early 20th century settlers, including some of the first mansions built in this area. Despite its frigid waters, the sea surrounding the small district are popular for yacht enthusiasts and those practicing rowing. From the pebbled shoreline of Cantalou, one of the more popular beaches in the area, take a glance at the San Lorenzo and Fronton islands can and let your curiosity be sparked. Although the winter months are approaching, there are plenty of reasons to continue splashing in the water. WANT TO TEST YOUR SEA LEGS? Take a short boat ride just beyond the coastline of La Punta and visit the Palomino islands, a rocky couple of islands by the names of El Fronton and San Lorenzo. Once home to a prison for terrorists, a prison riot broke out on El Fronton in the mid 80s; although uninhabited these days, the barracks are still visible to this day and make for quite a mysterious scene when visited upon a foggy winter’s day. Don’t want to live in the past? Hop over to San Lorenzo, the larger of the two Palomino islands, and watch a herd of sea lions laze on the rocky bluffs. Birds like pelicans and Humboldt penguins will likely make an appearance, hoping to steal the show. LA PUNTA One of the seven districts of Callao, La Punta is quite unlike any of its neighboring boroughs and a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Peru’s nearby capital city. Located on a peninsula (hence its name, translated to “The Point”), nearly one third of La Punta’s territory is taken up by the Peruvian Naval Academy though its origins speak of fisherman and Guided boat tours depart daily from the piers of both La Punta and Callao. Tours and activities will vary, some offering the opportunity to swim with sea lions. Leave a 4 hour window of time to complete the tour. Agnes Rivera Photos courtesy of Promperu, Yamil Alvarez