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Vaš besplatan primjerak Your complimentary copy
Pro l j e će, l j e to 2 0 1 2 . B ro j 2 9 / S pr i ng, S ummer 2012 N o 29 Va š b es p la t a n p r i m j e r a k You r compl imenta r y copy Sadržaj / Contents 13 32 110 126 Montenegro Airlines news ...........................................................8 Montenegro Airlines news .......................................................8 Belgrade - a strategic point on the destinations map Beograd - strateška tačka na mapi destinacija Montenegro Airlines na sajmu u Berlinu ..........................10 Montenegro Airlines at the Berlin Fair ............................11 Greater number of German tourists Veći broj njemačkih turista Veliko srce Rusije ..............................................................................13 Great Heart of Russia .................................................................22 Under the stars of Kremlin Pod zvijezdama Kremlja Naši gradovi ........................................................................................32 Our cities ...........................................................................................40 Story of Cetinje Cetinjska priča In a roulette of history ..............................................................56 Na ruletu istorije ...............................................................................52 Celebrate education, hold on to imagination! Slavi nauk, drž’ se mašte! Who knew?......................................................................................66 Ko bi to rekao? ...................................................................................62 Nevidio Canyon Kanjon Nevidio Our Treasures - Botanical Garden in Kolašin ...............78 Naša bogatstva – Botanička bašta u Kolašinu ...............72 Defence of Her Majesty Nature Odbrana njenog veličanstva prirode Gallery - Miodrag Šćepanović..............................................92 Galerija – Miodrag Šćepanović ...............................................86 Parisian, but Ours Pariški, a naš Modern Montenegrin Poetry ............................................ 104 Savremena crnogorska poezija............................................ 100 Pavle Goranović Pavle Goranović Attention please, Camera Rolling - As Pik! ................ 114 Pazi, snima se - As pik!................................................................ 110 Landscapes and good old schnapps Pejzaži i stara, dobra rakija Attention please, Camera Rolling - Boys from Marx Pazi, snima se - Dječaci iz ulice Marksa i Engelsa! ..... 118 and Engels street! ..................................................................... 122 Growing Up, Love & Other Stories Odrastanje, ljubav & druge priče Crna Gora na Eurosongu 2012 ............................................. 126 Montenegro on Eurosong Contest 2012................... 132 With an IQ test towards Europe! IQ testom na Evropu! Filip Ćabak, cantautor ............................................................ 140 Filip Ćabak, kantautor ................................................................ 138 Boyish Dreams of a Big Bicycle Dječački snovi o velikom biciklu Let Me Tell You a Story ........................................................... 152 Pričam ti priču ................................................................................. 148 Springtime Flowers Proljećni cvjetovi Montenegrin Cuisine ............................................................. 158 Crnogorska kužina ....................................................................... 156 Popara, Beggarly Breakfast Popara, prosjački doručak Discover Unknown Beauty ................................................. 166 Otkrijte nepoznatu ljepotu ..................................................... 160 Hidden places in Montenegro Skrovita mjesta u Crnoj Gori Prof. Paul Dishman, an American with Pastrovics’ Prof. Pol Dišman Amerikanac paštrovićke krvi............ 170 blood ................................................................................................ 174 Sun colored oranges Narandže boje sunca 6 72 86 160 118 170 Impressum Inflight Magazine No 29 Proljeće - ljeto 2012. / Spring - Summer 2012 UREĐUJE I IZDAJE / EDITING AND PUBLISHING Montenegro Airlines, Marketing & Corporative Communications Department, Mr Aleksandra Gardašević-Slavuljica DIZAJN, PRIPREMA ZA ŠTAMPU I OGLAŠAVANJE / DESIGN, PREPRESS AND ADS GLAVNI I ODGOVORNI UREDNIK / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nada Bukilić ART DIREKTOR / ART DIRECTOR Vuk Eraković DIZAJN / DESIGN Vuk Eraković TEKSTOVI / TEXTS Nada Bukilić, Marijana Bojanić, Tatjana Jovović, Maja Dragićević - Roganović, Veseljko Koprivica, Aida Rastoder, Jelena Suvara FOTOGRAFIJA / PHOTO Duško Miljanić, Dalibor Ševaljević, Relja Eraković, Slaven Vilus, Miodrag Marković NASLOVNA STRANA / COVER PAGE Milica Radulović TEHNIČKI UREDNIK / TECHNICAL EDITOR Nikola Kumburović OGLAŠAVANJE / ADVERTISING Jelena Dragutinović Tel: +382 (0)20 664 282, 664 283 E-mail: [email protected] PREVODIOC / TRANSLATOR Vanja Janjušević LEKTOR / PROOFREADER Dr Sanja Šubarić ŠTAMPA / PRINTED BY DPC & Grafotisak Grude Tiraž / Number of copies: 5000 Montenegro Airlines Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica, Montenegro, tel: +382 (0)20 405 501 fax: +382 (0)20 405 528 E-mail: [email protected] www.montenegroairlines.com Montenegro Advertising and Production Agency Stadion Budućnosti, Ul. 19. decembra 13, 81000 Podgorica, Montenegro tel: +382 (0)20 664 282, 664 283 [email protected] www.mapa.co.me ISSN 1800-5462 Poštovani putnici, Dobrodošli na još jedan let Montenegro Airlinesa. Prvi kvartal poslovne godine za Montenegro Airlines, kao i za ostale aktere turističke privrede, protiče u znaku ambicioznih planova i ozbiljnih priprema za ljetnju sezonu, od koje svi u Crnoj Gori mnogo očekujemo. Za Montenegro Airlines, sezona je uveliko počela. Već početkom marta, našim avionima stigle su prve organizovane grupe turista. Pored pozitivnih pokazatelja koji nas ohrabruju, i dalje su veoma izraženi izazovi sa kojima se suočava profitabilnost avio-prevoznika u cijelom svijetu. Konstantno pokušavamo prevazići problem koje donosi izražena ekonomska kriza u Evropi, enormno visoke cijene avio-goriva, visoke cijene aerodromskih usluga i spori oporavak ekonomije. Kao i svi avio-prevozioci u svijetu, imamo poteškoća sa poslovanjem u ovim turbulentnim vremenima. Ipak, godinu koja je za nama završili smo mnogo bolje nego brojne avio-kompanije u okruženju. 8 President’s message Iako su brojne poteškoće koje nam otežavaju poslovanje, ostajemo optimisti i očekujemo pozitivna dešavanja u godini pred nama. Svjesni smo da unutrašnje restrukturiranje i povećanje organizacione efikasnosti, nije dovoljno da kompaniju pokrene naprijed. Ono što je od ključne važnosti je mogućnost brzog prilagođavanja, brzog reagovanja na promjene i prisustvo na rastućim tržištima. Pored uvijek interesantnog srbijanskog tržišta, Montenegro Airlines je tržista Rusije i Francuske prepoznao kao svoju šansu. Do sada su se ova tržišta pokazala kao faktor koji stabilizuje naše poslovanje. Iz tog razloga ove ljetnje sezone ka Moskvi i Parizu letimo i po četiri puta dnevno. Naravno, i ostala tržišta jednako su značajna, pa smo prema svim destinacijama značajno povećali broj rotacija. Dugoročno posmatrano, naši ciljevi su da na najbrži i najkomforniji način povežemo Crnu Goru sa Evropom, budemo lider u regionu i izgradimo poziciju prepoznatljivog brenda. Imajući ove kriterijume u vidu, definisali smo i inicirali brojne projekte. Naša strategija u narednom periodu se odnosi na dalje unapređenje kapaciteta i inovativnu ponudu za naše putnike. Želim da se zahvalim na povjerenju i Vašoj lojalnosti svih ovih godina. Spremni smo za udoban nastavak putovanja i pozivamo Vas da nam se pridružite. Uživajte u letu, Srdačno, dr Zoran Đurišić, dipl. inž., predsjednik Odbora direktora Montenegro Airlinesa en Dear Passengers, Welcome on board Montenegro Airlines flight. The first quarter of the business year for Montenegro Airlines, as well as for the other participants in tourist industry, was marked by the ambitious plans and serious preparations for the summer season, from which all of us in Montenegro expect a lot. For Montenegro Airlines, the season has already started. Starting from the beginning of March the first organized groups of tourists have arrived in Montenegro. Besides the positive indicators by which we are encouraged, the airlines’ profitability throughout the world still faces the major challenges. We are constantly trying to overcome the problems brought by deep economic crisis in Europe, enormously high fuel price, high cost of airport services and slow recovery of the economy. As well as the other airlines throughout the world, we have difficulties in this turbulent time. However, the year behind us was far successful for us in comparison to the other companies from the region. Although there are numerous obstacles, which affect our business activity, we remain optimistic and expect positive outcome in the year ahead us. We are aware that internal restructuring and increase of organizational efficiency is not enough to move our company forward. The possibility to adjust, react promptly to changes and be present on the growing markets is of essence. Besides the market of Serbia, which is constantly of high importance for us, Montenegro Airlines has recognized its opportunity in the markets of Russia and France. These markets have proven to be the stabilizing factor for our operations so far. That is the reason why, this summer season we operate four flights per day to Moscow and Paris. However, the other markets are equally important for us, so we had increased significantly the number of rotations. In the long term, our aim is to offer the fastest and most comfortable connection between Montenegro and Europe, remain the leader in the region and build the position of recognizable brand. Bearing in mind all these criteria, we defined and launched numerous projects. Our strategy in the period to come refers to improvement of capacities and offer for our passengers. I would like to thank you for your trust and loyalty throughout the years. We are ready to continue our flight in the most comfortable way and we invite you to join us. I wish you a pleasant flight. Zoran Djurisic, PhD in Engineering CEO and Chairman of the Board of Directors Montenegro Airlines 9 MONTENEGRO AIRLINES NEWS MONTENEGRO AIRLINES NEWS na mapi destinacija B Belgrade - a strategic point on the destinations map A Montenegro Airlines i hoteli sa crnogorskog primorja prenijeli su u prohladni Beograd miris mora, mimozu i prijatnu atmosferu Mediterana, i ovom su tržištu ponudili izuzetno povoljne uslove prevoza i aranžmana sa crnogorskim hotelima. Montenegro Airlines and the hotels from the Montenegrin coast have conveyed the scent of the sea, mimosa and a pleasant atmosphere into the cool Belgrade, and offered this market extremely favorable conditions concerning transportation and arrangements with Montenegrin hotels. eograd - U hotelu Kontinental u prisustvu brojnih turističkih agenata, medija i poslovnih partnera održan je radni ručak na kome su predstavnici Montenegro Airlinesa prezentovali izuzetno atraktivnu ponudu za svoje letove u sezoni proljeće/ljeto 2012. Prisutnima su se obratili, zamjenik izvršnog direktora Montenegro Airlinesa - Novica Vulić, komercijalni direktor - Vlastimir Ristić, te direktor predstavništva Montenegro Airlinesa u Beogradu - Žarko Đurović. Montenegro Airlines saobraća iz Beograda još od svog osnivanja, prije 17 godina, a tržište Srbije i Beograda predstavlja jednu od strateških tački na mapi destinacija na kojima saobraća kompanija. Attendees were addressed by the Deputy Executive Director of Montenegro Airlines - Novica Vulić, Commercial Director Vlastimir Ristić, and Director of Montenegro Airlines office in Belgrade - Žarko Đurović. Svakodnevno prisustvo, koje se ogleda brojnim dnevnim letovima ka Beogradu i iz Beograda, predstavništvo koje postoji u Beogradu već dugi niz godina, dovoljan su dokaz koliko ovo tržište i ova destinacija Promotivne tarife za Crnu Goru Zamjenik izvršnog direktora Novica Vulić prezentovao je ponudu koju je za tržište Srbije pripremila kompanija Montenegro Airlines. U pitanju je spektar povoljnih tarifa! „Sa ponosom ističemo povratnu kartu na relaciji iz Beograda do Tivta ili Podgorice po cijeni već od 103 Eura sa svim pripadajućim taksama.”, izjavio je Novica Vulić. Do evropskih destinacija, preko Podgorice ili Tivta, najbržom i najpovoljnijom vezom možete otputovati po SUPER PROMO CIJENI, već od 169 Eura. Ova cijena se odnosi na povratnu kartu, sa svim pripadajućim taksama. U saradnji sa Udruženjem Hotelijera Crne Gore, Montenegro Airlines pripremio je posebnu ponudu za aranžmane u sferi kongresnog turizma, organizacije edukativnih seminara kao i vikend aranžmana u vodećim crnogorskim hotelima. Na kraju, Montenegro Airlines vas poziva da nas posjetite i na www.montenegroairlines.com gdje uvijek za Vas čuvamo posebne povoljnosti i najjeftinije avio karte, zaključio je zamjenik izvršnog direktora Novica Vulić. 10 working lunch was held at the Continental Hotel, in the presence of many travel agents, media and business partners, at which the representatives of Montenegro Airlines presented an extremely attractive offer for their flights in the 2012 spring / summer season. znače kompaniji. Sve ovo rezultiralo je da kompanija po najpovoljnijim uslovima do sada, nastavi obavljanje saobraćaja i po najatraktivnijim cijenama omogući putnicima sa ovog područja najbržu konekciju i ka evropskim destinacijama. Avioni Montenegro Airlinesa svakodnevno lete iz Beograda preko Podgorice do najatraktivnijih evropskih destinacija – Londona, Frankurta, Rima, Pariza, Ciriha, Rima, Beča, Moskve. „Montenegro Airlines se u svom punom kapacitetu pozicionirao na tržištu Srbije. Sa najsavremenijom flotom, sa najvećim sertifikatom za bezbjednost IOSA, sa kadrom koji može da iznese ovaj projekt i u budućnosti, kao i sa najpovoljnijim cijenama, smatramo da ćemo obezbijediti konkurentnost koja će nam omogućiti dugoročno prisustvo na ovom području”, saopštio je zamjenik izvršnog direktora, Novica Vulić. Montenegro Airlines has been operating from Belgrade since its establishment 17 years ago, and the market in Serbia and Belgrade represents one of the strategic points on the map of destinations in which the company operates. Day to day presence, reflected in numerous daily flights towards Belgrade and from Belgrade, the branch office that exists in Promotional tariffs for Montenegro Deputy Executive Director Novica Vulić presented an offer that the company Montenegro Airlines prepared for the Serbian market. It is a spectrum of affordable tariffs! ”We proudly emphanize the return ticket on the route from Belgrade to Tivat or Podgorica, at the price of EUR 103 with all associated taxes”, stated Novica Vulić. To European destinations, via Podgorica or Tivat, with the fastest and most affordable connection, you can travel at SUPER PROMOTIONAL PRICE of EUR 169. This price applies to the return trip ticket with all associated taxes. In cooperation with the Association of Hoteliers of Montenegro, Montenegro Airlines has prepared a special offer for arrangements in the field of congress tourism, organization of seminars, as well as weekend arrangements at the leading Montenegrin hotels. Finally, Montenegro Airlines invites you to visit us at www.montenegroairlines.com, where we hold the special benefits and the cheapest airline tickets for you, concluded Novica Vulić, the Deputy Executive Director. Belgrade for many years, are sufficient evidence how much this market and this destination means to the company. As a result of the abovementioned, the company is continuing to conduct the transportation, under most favorable conditions thus far and provide the travelers from this region, at the most attractive tariffs, the fastest connection towards the European destinations as well. Montenegro Airlines airplanes have daily flights from Belgrade via Podgorica toward the most attractive European destinations - London, Frankfurt, Rome, Paris, Zurich, Rome, Vienna, Moscow. “Montenegro Airlines positioned itself at the Serbian market in its full capacity. With the most modern fleet, with the highest IOSA Safety Certification, with the staff who can carry this project in the future, as well as with the best prices, we believe that we will provide the competition that will enable us a long-term presence in this region, “ Deputy Executive Director Novica Vulić announced. 11 MONTENEGRO AIRLINES NA SAJMU U BERLINU MONTENEGRO AIRLINES AT THE BERLIN FAIR tourists I !"#$" P očetkom marta Montenegro Airlines predstavio je svoju specijalnu ponudu za tržište Njemačke u okviru ITB 2012. – berlinske berze turizma, koja važi za jednu od vodećih u svijetu turizma po posjećenosti i broju učesnika. Ovo je tržište sa velikim potencijalom, u kome Crna Gora i Montenegro Airlines prepoznaju svoju šansu. Tokom prošle godine, broj turista iz Njemačke, koji su posjetili Crnu Goru, iznosio je 35.000, dok se za narednu očekuje povećanje za 20%. Na berzi u Berlinu, Crna Gora je bila u centru interesovanja i zbog činjenice da će ove jeseni biti domaćin kongresa Njemačkog 12 turističkog udruženja – DRV. Montenegro Airlines i Nacionalna turistička organizacija Crne Gore biće partneri u organizaciji ovog kongresa. Svi raspoloživi kapaciteti Montenegro Airlinesa biće stavljeni na raspolaganje, kako bi se podržali napori u pridobijanju njemačkih turista. Njemačko turističko udruženje, kako je istakao njegov predsjednik Juergen Buechy, sa entuzijazmom očekuje ovogodišnji kongres, sredinom novembra u Crnoj Gori. „Crna Gora je mala zemlja jedinstvene sinergije, obale i njenog zaleđa sa planinskim dijelom. Nadamo se da će tokom kongresa njemačka privreda biti u prilici da upozna potencijale ove zemlje i da će kongres doprinijeti povećanju broja njemačkih turista narednih godina“, rekao je Buechy. Prezentaciji crnogorske ponude prisustvovali su predstavnici uticajnijih medijskih kuća, online i specijalizovani mediji, kao što su Brigitte, FVW, Freizeit Woche, Neues Detschland, Augsburger Allgemein, Alpin i drugi. Montenegro Airlines je specijalno za predstavljanje na ITB-u pripremio promotivne tarife na letovima iz zemalja njemačkog govornog područja ka Crnoj Gori tokom zimske sezone 2012/13. godine, kao i za ljeto 2013. n early March, Montenegro Airlines presented its special offer for the German market within the ITB 2012 - the Berlin Tourism Bourse, which is one of the leaders in the world of tourism by number of visitors and participants. This is a market with great potential, in which Montenegro and Montenegro Airlines recognize their chance. Over the past year, the number of tourists from Germany, who visited Montenegro, amounted to 35,000, while a 20% increase is expected for the coming year. Montenegro was also the center of interest at the Berlin Bourse due to the fact that, this fall, it will be the host of the German Travel Association (DRV) Congress. Montenegro Airlines and the National Tourism Organization of Montenegro will be partners in the organization of this Congress. All available capacities of Montenegro Airlines will be placed at the disposal to support the efforts in attracting German tourists. German Travel Association, as their President Jürgen Büchy pointed out, is enthusiastically expecting this year’s Congress, in mid November in Montenegro. “Montenegro is a small country of unique synergy, the coast and its hinterland with the mountainous area. We hope that during the Congress, the German economy will be able to get to know the potentials of this country and that the Congress will contribute to increasing the number of German tourists next year, “ said Büchy. The presentation of the Montenegrin offer was attended by the representatives of the influential media outlets, online and specialized media, such as Brigitte, FVW, Freizeit Woche, Neues Deutschland, Augsburger Allgemein, Alpin and others. Montenegro Airlines has, specifically for the presentation at the ITB, prepared promotional tariffs on flights from German-speaking countries to Montenegro during the winter season 2012/13, as well as for summer 2013. 13 VELIKO SRCE RUSIJE Pod zvijezdama Kremlja Tekst: Tatjana Jovović Carska Moskva se gradila na istočnjački način, kapriciozno, razbacano, šareno, neplanski, bila je spahijska i trgovačka prestonica. Izrazita stambena kriza dvadesetih godina prošlog vijeka, kakvu nije doživjela nijedna od evropskih prestonica, prinudila je na žurnu gradnju novih zgrada. Sabor Vasilija Blaženog 14 vaka metropola liči jedna na drugu, ali Moskva je drugačija od svih i posebna na svoj način. Ako ste sačuvali u sjećanju socijalistički lik ove ruske ljepotice, prije ponovnog susreta oslobodite se svih predrasuda: poslije perestrojke u Moskvi više ništa nije isto. Junakinja filma Nikite Mihalkova „Sibirski berberin” kasno shvata da u Rusiji ništa ne može pomalo i da se sa Rusima nije šaliti. Dovoljno je prisjetiti se graditeljske ambicije Petra Velikog, Tolstojevog „Rata i mira”, neponovljive priče između Majstora i Margarite, remek-djela Tarkovskog, filmova „Rubljov” i „Nostalgija”, KGB-a, bankovnih računa ruskih bogataša, ljubavi između Jesenjina i Isidore Dankan i ruskog potencijala za alkoholnu konzumaciju: malo graditi, malo piti, malo pjevati, malo pisati, malo voljeti – nekako nije u osnovi ruskog karaktera. Dakle, ruska megalomanija je prvi šok koji treba prebroditi prilikom susreta sa Moskvom. A onda se valja prepustiti ogromnoj energiji ovog bučnog, pomalo haotičnog i neizmjerno živopisnog grada. S Moskva je grad ženskog karaktera, hirovita, koketna i kao i svaka žena, opsjednuta modom. I sasvim ženski, više sluša srce i emocije nego razum, mada stari ruski film, dobitnik Oskara iz 1980. kaže da „Moskva 15 Novodjevičji manastir Novodjevičji manastir suzama ne vjeruje”. Carska Moskva se gradila na istočnjački način, kapriciozno, razbacano, šareno, neplanski, bila je spahijska i trgovačka prestonica. Izrazita stambena kriza dvadesetih godina prošlog vijeka, kakvu nije doživjela nijedna od evropskih prestonica, prinudila je na žurnu gradnju novih zgrada. Ogoljena, suva socijalistička zdanja kockastog oblika na kojima je utisnut žig, ponekad šarmantnog, ali često i pretencioznog neukusa, svjedoče o tom dobu. Originalnost Moskve počiva u strasnoj kombinaciji stilova i boja, širokih trgova i uskih prolaza. Na svakom uglu nalaze se crkve sa pozlaćenim ili šarenim kupolama, čiji kolorit prije podsjeća na raskošnu azijatsku bajku negoli na pravoslavnu jednostavnost. 16 Komplikovana i zagonetna duša Moskve može se naslutiti tek poslije obilaska nekoliko punktova. Savremeni ruski pisac Vladimir Sorokin smatra da na tijelu ruske prestonice ima sedam glavnih erogenih zona, koje posjetilac suptilno treba da upozna da bi mu se grad prepustio. Prva u nizu je staljinska gromada MGU (Moskovski državni univerzitet – Lomonosov) i vidikovac na Vrapčjim gorama sa koga se moskovska panorama otkriva u svom najboljem izdanju. Staljin je želio da se običan ruski čovjek osjeti kao Bog kada izađe na trg ili se spusti u metro. Takođe je htio da pokaže snagu sovjetskog stroja, pa je zahvaljujući tome moskovski metro pravi podzemni muzej, a svaka stanica je izložba za sebe. Osim sa visine ili pod zemljom, Moskva se može doživjeti i sa istoimene rijeke, na nekom od mnogobrojnih brodića koji neprestano isplovljavaju ili pristaju. Noćni prizor Kremlja u januaru, okupanog krupnim pahuljama i svjetlošću, nešto je što se ne zaboravlja, ali Moskvu je, ipak, bolje obilaziti ljeti. To je najbolje doba za duge šetnje bučnom Tverskom ulicom, za lagano prepuštanje boemskoj atmosferi stare moskovske ulice Arbata i otmenoj aristokratskoj smirenosti Prečistenke, u kojoj se sačuvao duh stare Moskve. Na lijevoj obali rijeke Moskve nalazi se najstariji dio grada, jedan od najvažnijih istorijsko-umjetničkih kompleksa u zemlji i rezidencija najviših organa državne vlasti. Sa dolaskom sovjetske vlasti, Kremlj je postao jedan od simbola novog poretka. Od Monumentalni Novodjevičji ženski manastir takođe je reprezentativni primjer ruske arhitekture iz 16. i 17. vijeka i nalazi se pod zaštitom Uneska. Naročito je poznat po tome što su se u njemu zamonašivale žene iz carske porodice. Među zidinama manastira živjela je udovica starijeg sina Ivana Groznog, carevića Ivana. Poslije smrti cara Fjodora Ivanoviča ovamo se povukla njegova udovica Irina Godunova sa svojim bratom Borisom Godu- novom, budućim ruskim carem. U Novodjevičjem manastiru odživjela je svoje posljednje dane i sestra Petra I, princeza Sofija, koju su nasilno zamonašili. Monahinje manastira obično su bile iz najviših plemićkih slojeva. Za vrijeme Otadžbinskog rata 1812. godine u Novodjevičjem manastiru nalazila se francuska vojska, koja je prilikom povlačenja namjeravala da raznese manastir. Samo zahvaljujući brzoj reakciji monahinja koje su stigle na vrijeme i ugasile fitilje, manastir je spasen. Zanimljivo je da su crkvene vlasti jedno vrijeme koristile manastir kao popravnu ustanovu za Moskovljanke koje je sud osudio zbog nevjerstva. Još od 16. vijeka na obližnjem Novodjevičjem groblju sahranjivali su se ugledni ljudi iz svjetovnog i crkvenog života. U lijepim alejama ovog groblja svoj vječni mir našli su i Gogolj, Čehov, Bulgakov, Majakovski, Skrjabin, Rihter, Hruščov... 17 Hram Hrista spasitelja 1935. do 1937. pet dvoglavih orlova koji su stajali na vrhu glavnih kremljovskih kula zamijenjeni su rubinskim zvijezdama prečnika 3 do 3,75 m, koje noću dominiraju nebom iznad Kremlja. Jedan od najljepših spomenika drevne ruske arhitekture jeste Sabor Vasilija Blaženog, koji od 16. vijeka ushićuje putnike, a za Ruse predstavlja simbol otadžbinske istori18 je i ruskog nacionalnog karaktera. Prvobitni naziv hrama bio je Sabor Bogorodičinog pokrova, a kada je u njemu sahranjen jurodivi Vasilije Blaženi, hram je dobio i novo ime. Po jednoj od legendi, Ivan Grozni je pitao neimara koji je gradio hram da li može da napravi ljepši. Neimar je odgovorio potvrdno, a Ivan Grozni mu je iskopao oči kako bi ljepota hrama ostala nenadmašena. Moskva je puna zelenih oaza i vještačkih jezera, tako da je relativno lako naići na zonu u kojoj se možete odmoriti od gradske vreve. Za cjelodnevni izlet idealni su predivni prirodni ambijenti u kojima se nalaze muzeji i arhitektonski kompleksi kao što su Kolomenskoe, Arhangelskoe, Ostankino, Caricino ili pak predivni ljetnjikovac grofa Šeremetjeva – Kuskovo. Čuveni moskovski Baljšoj teatar ljeti je obično na turnejama, ali u nekom od mnogih Panorama Moskve, Univerzitet Lomonosov Crveni trg, noću moskovskih pozorišta mogu se pogledati različita režiserska preispitivanja stare i nove, tradicionalne i avangardne dramaturgije. Moskovski cirkus Nikulina na Cvjetnom bulevaru od 1880. godine zadivljuje publiku nevjerovatnim tačkama svojih umjetnika: izvrsnih žonglera, nevjerovatno duhovitih klovnova, smjelih ekvilibrista, taktičnih krotiteljki lavova. Ogromna nacionalna zbirka umjetnina može se vidjeti u čuvenoj Tretjakovskoj galeriji, a u Muzeju likovnih umjetnosti, koji nosi ime Puškina, osim izvrsne stalne kolekcije, često gostuju postavke iz cijelog svijeta. Monumentalna arhitektura Moskve zaista traži mnogo energije: treba savladati širinu bulevara i prospekata, dužinu hodnika moskovskog metroa, visinu zgrada, izazove svih kulturnih i zabavnih događaja koji mame 24 časa. Uložena energija stostruko se vraća. Civilizacija nije ukrotila strasti kultura koje se prepliću u Moskvi. Upravo u tome je tajna njene zavodljivosti. Žena ruskog diplomate Mihaila Bondarenka, cejlonska princeza Farida, svojevremeno je izjavila da je Moskva najinteresantniji grad na svijetu. Nije teško povjerovati da ima još dosta onih koji dijele njeno mišljenje. %&'() Rubljovka je nezvanični naziv teritorije koja se pruža duž Rubljovo-Uspenskog auto- 22 puta. Prve državne vile visokih činovnika pojavile su se ovdje 1930. godine, kao i pansioni predstavnika sovjetske kulturne elite. U posleratno vrijeme tu su živjele zapadne diplomate, između ostalog, i zbog njegovog simboličnog zapadnog položaja. U skorije vrijeme ove ekološki privlačne, šumovite obale rijeke Moskve, pokupovale su zvijezde šou-biznisa, političari, industrijski magnati, itd. Prepoznavši svoju ciljnu grupu koncentrisanu na jednom mjestu, najveći svjetski brendovi otvorili su samo za njih svoje ekspoziture na Rubljovci. Prije ulaza u šume Rubljovke, nailazi se na ne naročito maštovite, gotovo identične hale, koje su poređane jedna pored druge i na kojima se čitaju natpisi: Guči, Bentli, Lamborgini, Ferari, Harli-Dejvidson... Jedna od poslednjih ludosti sa Rubljovke bio je kurs za vožnju helikoptera, specijalno organizovan za ovdašnje domaćice. Kako su gužve i zastoji na ovom putu veoma česti, neko se dosjetio da na ovaj način olakša život ženama milionera. Pošto se novcem ipak ne može kupiti ukus, na Rubljovci se može svašta vidjeti. Kuće počinju da „upozoravaju” kada im se približite na nekoliko metara. Pojedini bogataši su tik uz kuće izgradili crkve za ličnu upotrebu, nadmećući se sa komšijama u demonstraciji novca i moći. Ipak, upravo na Rubljovci, u prijatnom mirisu šumske vlage i mahovine, dok u stilizovanoj brvnari mlada pijanistička nada izvodi koncert samo za stanovnike sela Nikolina gora, vidi se koliko život može biti lijep. I da novac ponekad pomaže takvim spoznajama. Montenegro Airlines leti za Moskvu i do četiri puta dnevno. GREAT HEART OF RUSSIA Kremlj Under the stars of Kremlin *' (' ' + ' &' , -( '' .' (' '' & /''$0"#12&(3 ( 4' 5(' - 24 Text: Tatjana Jovović ll metropolises tend to look alike but Moscow is different, exceptional in its own way. If you imagine this Russian beauty according to its socialist past, prior to the new assembly, then free yourself from such prejudice. After the perestroika nothing is the same in Moscow. The main heroine in Nikita Mikhalkov’s movie “The Barber of Siberia” realizes too late that nothing in Russia can be done just “a little” Bear in mind the building ambitions of Peter the Great, Tolstoy’s “War and Peace”, the inimitable story of Master and Margarita, the A masterpieces of Tarkovsky, the films “Burly” and “Nostalghia”, the KGB, bank accounts of Russian millionaires, the love between Yesenin and Isadora Duncan, and the Russian penchant for alcohol consumption. Build a little, drink a little, sing a little, write a little, love a little – somehow “a little” is not in the heart of the Russian character. Thus, the Russian megalomania, its obsession with power, is the initial force to be dealt with when encountering Moscow. For that reason, one should just surrender to the great energy of this boisterous and chaotic, but extremely picturesque city. 25 Moscow is a city of female character - moody, flirty and just as any woman, obsessed with style. A purely feminine spirit, it follows the heart more than reason. (Although according to an old Russian movie, an Oscar winner in 1980, “Moscow does not believe in tears”). The Russia of the tsars was built, as such, in an oriental manner - capricious, dispersed, diverse, and unplanned, reflecting an important trade center. In contrast, bare and dry socialist structures with square forms, often charming but usually overstated, mark another period: a housing crisis during the 1920’s (never before experienced by a European capital) incited hasty building practices. Kremlin by night Nonetheless Moscow’s novelty lies in its loving combinations of style and color, its spacious squares and narrow passages. On each corner stand churches so striking, with gilded and vibrant cupolas, that they resemble a rich Asian fairytale rather than an Orthodox simplicity. The multifaceted, mystical soul of Moscow can be felt only after visiting several key areas of the city. The modern Russian writer, Vladimir Sorokin, believes that the Russian capital has seven erogenous zones; the visitor must experience each only slightly to be taken in by their charm.T he first area is of Stalinist relics – MGU (Moscow State University – Lomonosov) and the lookout from Sparrow Hills, offering the best panoramic view of Moscow. The next is the Moscow Metro train station. Stalin wanted the ordinary Russian to feel like a god when stepping into the square or descending into the metro; he wanted to demonstrate the power of the Russian machine. As a result, the Moscow Metro is a true underground museum; each station is a separate exhibition. Further from the streets and underground Moscow can be viewed from the river bearing its name, on one of the numerous boats that continuously cruise about. Kremlin is a must see while touring Moscow. At night in January, bathed in snowfla- kes and light, Kremlin is unforgettable. Still, it is best to visit Moscow in the summer. This is the best time of year for long walks down the lively Tverska Street, or to give in to the bohemian atmosphere of Arbata, an historic Moscow street. During summer experience the gracious serenity of Precistenka, where the spirit of the old city lives on. On the left bank of the Moscow River (the oldest part of the city) Kremlin is one of the most important historic and artistic complexes in the country and the residen- ce of main state officials. With the onset of Soviet rule, Kremlin became the symbol of this new order. In the period 1935-1937, five double-headed eagles that once stood on top of the main Kremlin towers were replaced with ruby-red stars. With diameters ranging from 3 to 3.75 meters, the red stars dominate the sky above Kremlin at night. The most beautiful monument of early Russian architecture, the Cathedral of St. Basil the Blessed, has been astounding visitors since the 16th Century. For Russians, it re- presents a symbol of historic heritage and national character. The original name was The Cathedral of the Intercession of the Virgin on the Moat. The temple was renamed when jurodivi Basil the Blessed was buried there. According to legend, Ivan the Terrible asked the cathedral builder to construct an even more beautiful temple. When the builder agreed, Ivan the Terrible took his eyes out; thus, the legend reminds how the beauty of this cathedral should never be surpassed. Golden domes Izmaylovo, wooden window Subway interior The Smolny Cathedral 6&&7& The immense Novodevichy Maiden’s Convent, another attraction, is a symbol of Russian architecture from the 16th and 17th Centuries. It is protected under UNESCO. Because women from the royal family took shelter there, this convent is most legendary. Behind these walls lived the widow of the older son of Ivan the Terrible, Prince Ivan. After the death of Feodor Ivanovich, the widowed Irina Godunova stayed there as well, with her brother Boris Godunov, the future Russian Tsar. Here was also where Princess Sofia, the sister of Peter the 28 Great, was forced to take cover in her last days. During the Homeland War in 1812, the French army stayed in the Convent and planned to blow it up upon retreating. Fortunately, due to the quick reaction of nuns, the convent was saved. It is interesting to note that church authorities have occasionally used the convent as a penitentiary for women condemned for infidelity. Nearby, Novodevichy Cemetery, since the 16th century, was used to bury notables from both secular and religious life. Here on these peaceful grounds is where such greats as Gogol, Czechow, Bulgakov, Mayakovski, Skrabin, Richter, and Hruscov are buried. Moscow is abounding with greenery and lakes. It is relatively easy to escape the city hustle and bustle to find rest and relaxation. For a daylong excursion the ideal places to visit are the beautiful parks with museums and historic buildings, such as Kolomenskoe, Arhangelskoe, Ostankino, Caricino, or the elegant Summer Palace of Count Sheremetev–Kuskovo. Moscow’s famous Bolshoi Theatre is usually on tour in summertime; however, it is possible to see various works of old and new, traditional and avant-garde dramaturgy, in one of the many city theaters. The Moscow Circus Niculina, on Flower Boule- Christ the Savior Church vard since 1880, is home to incredible acts by various artists: skilled jugglers, amusing clowns, and daring equilibrists and lion tamers. A substantial collection of national art may be seen in the famous Tretyakovskaya Gallery, while the Museum of Art, named after Pushkin, offers exhibits from around the world, in addition to a valuable permanent collection. Energy and stamina are required to fully experience the vast architecture of Moscow. One will need to cope with wide boulevards and the length of the Moscow Metro station halls, the heights of very tall buildings, and the lure of infinite cultural events and entertainment. Nonetheless, invested time and effort pay significant rewards. Civilization did not break the spirit of Moscow - a blend of interwoven cultures and influences. This is precisely the secret of its seductiveness. The Ceylon princess Farida, the wife of the Russian diplomat Michael Bondarenko, once said that Moscow is the most interesting city in the world. Not 30 surprisingly countless others share in this opinion. 8*' Rublyovka is the unofficial name of the territory surrounding the Rublyovo-Uspenski Highway. The first villas of high-ranking government officials as well as retirees of the Soviet cultural elite appeared here in 1930. After the war, this was where diplomats from the West lived for reason of its symbolic western positioning, among others. Recently these ecologically attractive, forested banks of the Moscow River have been purchased by celebrities, politicians, and industrial magnates. The leading world brands have opened their shops in Rublyovka specifically for these hi-end residents. Upon entering the forests of Rublyovka, extremely imaginative alleyways appear, patterned identically in a series of rows, with exclusive shops boasting bran- ds like Gucci, Bentley, Lamborghini, Ferrari, and Harley-Davidson. As the wealthy are often eccentric, a recent craze of Rublyovka was a helicopter operation course designed to ease transport as traffic jams are so common here. Geared specifically for housewives, this idea was meant to ease the lives of these wealthy wives. Money cannot buy taste, as is demonstrated by all sorts of oddities in Rublyovka. Houses “warn you” when approaching them too closely. Several homeowners have built private churches next to their homes, competing with neighbors in a show of money and power. Conversely, it is precisely in Rublyovka, with its pleasant smell of forest damp and moss, where a young pianist will give a private concert at one of the many new log-style homes. Among such ambience residents are reminded of how inspiring life can be. Money, after all, can easily afford such pleasures. Montenegro Airlines flies to Moscow up to four times per day. Za svaki slucaj Just in Case NOnVerIi Kupite polisu putnickog zdravstvenog osiguranja 24 sata dnevno, 365 dana u godini! www.sava.co.me par t Buy a Travel Health Insurance policy 24 hours a day, 365 days a year! Grčka, Egipat, Kuba, Maldivi... U jedno možete biti sigurni – putničko zdravstveno osiguranje učiniće Vaše putovanje bezbrižnijim i sigurnijim. Greece, Egypt, Cuba, Maldives... There is one thing you can be sure about Travel Health Insurance will make your trip safer and more enjoyable. Zašto putničko zdravstveno osiguranje? Za svaki slučaj. Why Travel Health Insurance? Just in case. U saradnji sa prestižnom međunarodnom asistentskom kućom Coris Assistance, Sava Montenegro AD Vam pruža usluge medicinske pomoći i pokriće neophodnih medicinskih troškova za vrijeme privremenog boravka u inostranstvu. In cooperation with the prestigious international assistance company Coris Assistance, Sava Montenegro AD provides medical assistance services and coverage for necessary medical expenses during a temporary stay abroad. Trajanje osiguranja prilagođeno je Vašim potrebama – može se ugovoriti na period od jednog dana, pa nadalje. Za sve one koji putuju često, osiguranje se može ugovoriti na godinu dana sa neograničenim brojem putovanja. Duration of insurance is tailored to your needs – it can be contracted for a period of one day, and onwards. For those who are frequent travelers, insurance can be arranged for one year with unlimited number of trips. Neka Vam putničko osiguranje postane navika i prije svakog polaska na put posjetite web shop Sava Montenegro AD – i osigurajte se. Za svaki slučaj: www.sava.co.me Let your travel insurance become a habit and before you travel, visit web shop Sava Montenegro AD – and get insurance for yourself. Just in case: www.sava.co.me Online kupovina osiguranja štedi Vaše vrijeme i novac i omogućuje jednostavniji pristup uslugama osiguranja! Buying insurance on line saves your time and money and allows easy access to insurance services! Nekoliko trenutaka nakon uspješno obavljene procedure plaćanja, na Vašu mail adresu dostavićemo polisu putničkog zdravstvenog osiguranja, što predstavlja čin zaključenja ugovora o osiguranju. A few moments after a successful payment procedure, Travel Health Insurance Policy will be delivered to your email address, which represents conclusion of the insurance contract. Buy a Travel Health Insurance policy 24 hours a day, 365 days a year! Srećan i bezbrižan put želi Vam Sava Montenegro AD! Sava Montenegro AD wish you a pleasant and safe journey! Sava Montenegro AD Rimski trg 70, 81000 Podgorica Tel/fax: +382 20 234 008 · Call center: +382 20 40 30 20 www.sava.co.me , [email protected] prodaja na RATE Piše: Maja Dragićević-Roganović Fotografije: Miodrag Marković M oje Cetinje je istorija. U njemu je izatkan duboki ponos, iz njega izvire duhovna snaga mojih sugrađana, ali i cijele Crne Gore. Svaka njegova sreća ili nesreća, uspjeh ili neuspjeh, uzlet ili pad, bio je sudbinski vezan za državu. Nema, valjda, manje prijestonice, a da je bila meta moćnijih imperija i carevina. Kao feniks, Cetinje se rađalo nanovo, uvijek jače, ljepše i – prkosnije. Prkos kao uslov opstanka i kao način trajanja. Stranice njegove slavne istorije pune su krvavih megdana, bojeva i bitaka, i još uvijek žive u sjećanjima žitelja ovog, za mene, čarobnog i neponovljivog grada. Tu veličanstvenu sliku prošlosti, ponekad nesvjesno izgubimo u skromnosti i tišini današnje svakodnevice. Ali, veseli i razdragani glasovi najmlađih i njihova ozarena lica pokazuju da su sva nekadašnja iskušenja i sve nedaće bili zalog za bolji i srećniji život. Kao što je pjesnik zabilježio: „...na grobu će iznići cvijeće, za daleka neka pokoljenja”. Malo je urbanih mjesta u Evropi u kojima spomenici kulture nijesu pretvoreni u kvaziidilične kulise, ili pak, podređeni turističkim dekorativnim sadržajima. Cetinje je imalo sreću jer je većim dijelom sačuvalo prvobitnu autentičnost, originalnost i duhovnost. To može primijetiti i osjetiti svaki posjetilac. Zato se oni koji jedanput dođu, Cetinju uvijek vraćaju. Cetinjske noći, svježe i pune mirisa lipa, zauvijek ostaju u duši. Kao sjenka idu za čovjekom, ma gdje da ode. Te noći pune zvijezda, kada je svaka emocija visoka do vrha Lovćena i svaki pogled jasan i bistar kao djetinji, i čine nas Cetinjanima. Znamo to, ogrnuti decentnom otmenošću i plemenitom, nenametljivom ljepotom naših ulica i trgova, gdje još – za noći punih mjesečine, ili za onih dana kada padaju duge cetinjske kiše – naš grad usred krša ipak diše mediteranski i miriše na narandže i lipe... VREMEPLOV Šetajući njegovim ulicama proputovaćete kroz vrijeme, vratiti se u prošlost i ‚sresti’ brojne harizmatične ličnosti koje su ovdje živjele i kraće ili duže vrijeme boravile. Kod crkve na Ćipuru, gdje je štampana prva južnoslovenska knjiga, srešćete Ivana i Đurđa Crnojevića; ispred Manastira, bastiona i čuvara slobodarske misli i crnogorske tradicije, sigurnim korakom prolazi Petar I Petrović, svetac i otac naše duhovnosti; u Biljardi, kamenom zdanju s kulama, svoje rime i misli zapisuje Rade Tomov; od Dvora Nikole I, cara junaka, sve do Vladina doma, pored impozantnih građevina baroknog stila, sa bijelim suncobranima u rukama, eno, šetaju naše lijepe princeze... A naveče, kad odu posljednje sunčeve zrake i sjen noći pokrije grad, vidjećete ih sve tu, u neposrednoj blizini, u Kraljevskom pozorištu. Samo nek se podigne zastor i nek igra počne! Vidjećete i onu cetinjsku momčad i djevojke što su dane provodili u biblioteci i čitaonici, skupljajući znanje i istine o svijetu i ljudima, iz tada dostupnih i poznatih knjiga i zapisa... I, kako onda da ne povjerujete da ste i sami akter jedne od mnogih cetinjskih priča? Moje je Cetinje grad poslanstava, odnosno ljubavi za arhitekturu. Nakon Berlinskog kongresa, podizanjem dvanaest diplomatskih predstavništava, vladarskih rezidencija %( &':(((99+ &'9&& & ''&&'9''' &''('-=&9 '& &)':' NAŠI GRADOVI !"#$%&'$ &&'9'(7& &&'& &:((''''(&+ ):-;&7( < &7& =&6)- P 35 i objekata za smještaj državnih, kulturnih i prosvjetiteljskih ustanova, i naš vladar i naša mala sredina, prihvatili su savremene tendencije u graditeljstvu i ta zanimljiva i osobena arhitektonska rješenja oplemenila su izgled grada. Iako je bilo pod snažnim uticajem tradicije i preplitanja Istoka i Zapada, Cetinje je krajem XIX vijeka uspjelo da se približi savremenoj evropskoj umjetnosti i da, polako, prihvati evropske manire i način življenja. Otuda kod nas skijanje, klizanje, tenis, golf… Dva divna parka, njegovana od 1895. godine, bila su briga princeze Ksenije Petrović. Ona je vodila računa i o vrsti drveća i o broju stabala. Tu su i teniska igrališta, ali i naša Ljetnja pozornica, koja podsjeća na antička pozorišta i mnogo nam znači ljeti, kada nam u goste stižu umjetnici i zabavljači sa svih strana. POGLED SA VISINE Nad gradom se uzdiže Orlov krš, na čijem je platou podignut mauzolej vladici Danilu, rodonačelniku dinastije Petrović Njegoš. Sa Orlovog krša lako se sagledava cijelo Cetinje, naš mali i veliki grad: crveni krovovi, istorijske građevine, ulice i parkovi, male travnate parcele, voćnjaci i njivice zasađene povrćem, oteti su kršu i, sa visine, djeluju kao da su naslikani. Ako ste skloni meditaciji ili, prosto, želite da se odmorite od svega na mjestu gdje će vam samo ptica uznemiriti pogled, popnite se do Orlovog krša. Mnoge stvari, baš kao i mnoge misli, drugačije djeluju odavde. Moje Cetinje je grad specifičnog humora. Oduvijek je imalo kafanice u kojima se odvijao zanimljiv život, vodili se dugi i iscrpljujući razgovori o politici i drugim važnim pitanjima, i rađao cinični, a sasvim dobronamjerni humor. Pamte se mnoge aneg36 dote o načinu života, poznatim ličnostima i aktuelnim dešavanjima, sa originalnim, do suza duhovitim porukama. Taj zanimljivi kafanski život danas se preselio u kafiće, ali Cetinjani nijesu zaboravili kako se stvaraju dobre šale, niti su zaboravili da je smijeh lijek i da nema ljutnje, ma šta da se desi. Eto, i taj i takav humor čini nas Cetinjanima. Kao što nas Cetinjanima čini i onaj ponos na pretke i prohujala, slavna vremena. Naši kafići, slični pariskim bistroima i talijanskim baštama, vrlo često imaju simbolična imena: Gaeta, Antib..., ali nijedan nije kao Lokanda! Iz nekadašnje Lokande nikli su velikani cetinjskog humora, pa poučeni tim iskustvom lako podliježemo svemu što razgaljuje dušu i uljepšava život. U našem gradu nalaze se i tri akademije: likovna, muzička i akademija dramskih umjetnosti. Smještene su u starim zdanjima nekadašnjih poslanstava, te nas i tako podsjećaju na važnost umjetničke i svake druge povezanosti sa svijetom. A studenti, u svojim kratkim pauzama, razdragano i mladalački zaneseno uljepšavaju nama ionako lijepu sliku grada… Ako poželite da provjerite moje riječi, dođite. Dođite na Cetinje kad zamirišu lipe. Obećavam da ćete se srećno smijati, da će vam se duša ugrijati. Obećavam da ćete naći prijatelje i lako razumjeti zašto naš grad volimo više od svega. I garantujem: u dugim sjenkama koje pred zalazak padaju na zidove naših građevina i kuća, prepoznaćete i sami mnoge od onih velikana koji su ovdje živjeli i zbog kojih je Cetinje oduvijek i vaša prijestonica. MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO Relax, play and entertainment In romantic rocky bay of the Montenegrin Riviera, above the charming send beach, lays hotel “Maestral. The name has been taken from the fresh aromatic wind that has been companion of that picturesque rocky coast through the summer months. It has been splashed by the warm sea of the south Adriatic, and leans on the mountain background, which through the wormiest days brings to the sunny coast the freshness of the spring. Hotel offers the high quality of 418 beds in 196 rooms and 18 apartments. All rooms have air condition, safe strongboxes, mini-bars, telephone, TV (possibility of Pay TV). Most of the rooms have the beautiful view on the sea and Internet access. MAESTRAL RESORT & CASINO Odmor, igra i zabava U romantiènom stjenovitom zalivu crnogorskog primorja, iznad ljupke pješèane plaže, nalazi se potpuno obnovljeni hotel “Maestral". Ime nosi po svježem aromatiènom vjetru koji je tokom ljetnih mjeseci stalni pratilac te slikovite stjenovite obale. Zapljuskuje ga toplo more južnog Jadrana, a naslanja se na brdovito zaleðe koje i u najtoplijim mjesecima donosi svježinu proljeæa. Hotel raspolaže sa 418 ležaja u 196 sobi i 18 apartmana najviše kategorije. Sve sobe su klimatizovane i imaju sef, mini-bar, telefon, televizor (moguænost Pay TV). Veæina ima predivan pogled na more i pristup Internetu. Opuštanje i rekreacija "Maestral" vodi brigu i o trenucima potpunog opuštanja. Gosti hotela mogu da iskoriste prednosti kompletne wellness ponude na jednom mjestu. Razni bazeni i sauna centar sa finskom i infracrvenom saunom i turskim i rimskim kupatilom, kozmetièki salon, specijalni tretmani za podmlaðivanje, estetska stomatološka ordinacija, kupke sa masažom, a prije svega vrhunska udobnost, u potpunosti æe vas oèarati. U centru tradicionalne tajlandske masaže "Sa Wann" moæi æete da birate najrazlièitije vrste masaža. Igra i zabava Bez prave, uzbudljive zabave nema ni odmora. Potražiæete je u "Maestralovoj" igraènici koja treperi svjetlima 130 automata za igru, 3 elektronska ruleta, stolova za amerièki rulet, midi punto banco, blek-džek, HIT-ov progresivni draw poker i Texas Hold’em Poker. Na pozornici za priredbe možete vidjeti vrhunske koncerte, kabare i druge zabavne programe. Od 2010. godine obogatili smo našu ponudu redovnim organizovanjem poker turnira. Relaxing and recreation “Maestral” takes care about the moments of total relaxing. Guests of the hotel can use the advantages of the full wellness offer at one place. Different types of pools and sauna center with the Finland and infrared saunas, Roman and Turkish bathroom, cosmetic salon, medical and dentist center, bath massages, and more than anything, there is a great comfort that will bewitch you completely. In the gorgeous center of the traditional Thailand massage “Sa Wann”, we will pamper you with the most different types of massages. Play and entertainment Without the real and exited fun, there is not a real vacation. You can find it in the “Maestral’s” playground that shines with the lights of the 130 slot machines, 3 electric roulettes, as well as American Rulette, Black Jack, Texas Hold’em Poker, Midi Punto Banco and HIT Progressive Draw Poker tables. On the auditorium of spectacles “Theatre” you can see grand concerts, cabarets as well as many other entertainment programs. From 2010 we enhanced our entertainment offer through regular organization of poker tournaments. MAESTRAL Pržno, 85315 Sveti Stefan Montenegro t +382 33 410 108, 410 109 [email protected] www.maestral.info APART HOTEL TRE CANNE BUDVA- CRNA GORA Energy efficient and environmentaly friendly project with generated energy saving during the building exploitation- 68% of energy balance compearing to the building designed in the classical consumption and construction systems. Real Estate Sales & Marketing +382 69 019 999; +382 69 019 989; e-mail: [email protected]; www.trecanne.me Written by: Maja Dragićević Roganović Photos: Miodrag Marković OUR CITIES STORY OF CETINJE >&1('' 7&' & '( & -% 7 +?7&=&6)- U My Cetinje is history. It is embroidered with deep pride, the spiritual strength of my fellow citizens and of the whole of Montenegro springs from it. Every one of his fortunes or misfortunes, successes or failures, rises or declines was vitally linked to the state. There is no, I believe, smaller capital that was the target of more powerful empires and kingdoms. Like a phoenix, Cetinje rose again, always stronger, and more beautiful – more defiant. Defiance as a condition for survival and as a way of duration. Pages of its glorious history are full of bloody duels, combats and battles, and they still live in the memories of the inhabitants of this, to me, magical and unique city. We sometimes unconsciously lose this magnificent image of the past, in the humility and silence of the present everyday life. However, cheerful and joyful voices of the youngest and their beaming faces show that all former temptations, and all the troubles, were a pledge for a better and happier life. As a poet once noted: “.. the flowers will spring from the grave, for some distant generations.” There are but a few urban places in Europe where cultural monuments have not been converted into quasi-idyllic scenery, or even, subordinated to decorative tourist attractions. Cetinje was lucky because it has largely preserved its original authenticity, originality and spirituality. Every visi- >((' '' , ?& & ( - & ? ' tor noticed and felt this. That is why those who come once, always return to Cetinje. Night in Cetinje, fresh and full of linden tree scent, forever remains in the soul. They follow the person as a shadow, wherever he goes. Those nights full of stars, when every emotion is as high as Lovćen and every glance clear and bright as a child’s, are what makes us residents of Cetinje. We are aware of that, clothed in the subtle refinement and noble, unobtrusive beauty of our streets and squares, where in nights of full moon, or during the days when those long Cetinje’s rains fall - our city in the middle of the rocks still breaths in a Mediterranean way and smells of oranges and linden. TIME MACHINE Near the church on Ćipur, where the first South Slavic book was printed, you will meet Ivan Crnojević and Djurdj Crnojević, in front of the Monastery, bastion and guardian of libertarian thought and Montenegrin tradition, Petar I Petrović is passing with a steady pace, a saint and the father of our spirituality; in Biljarda, stone mansion with towers, Rade Tomov writes his rhymes and thoughts; from the palace of Nikola I, tsar hero, all the way to the Government House, next to the striking Baroque-style buildings, with white parasols in their hands, there, our beautiful princesses are taking a stroll... And in the evening, when the last sun rays depart and the shadow of the night covers the city, you will see them all in the immediate vicinity, at the Royal Theatre. Let the curtain be lifted and let the game begin! You will see those lads from Cetinje and the girls that have spent the days in the library and reading room, gathering knowledge and truths about the world and peo43 ple, from the, at that time, available and famous books and records ... How can you not believe that you are the actor in one of the many stories from Cetinje? My Cetinje is a city of consulates, i.e. love for architecture. After the Berlin Congress, constructing twelve diplomatic offices, royal residences and government buildings for accommodation of state, cultural and enlightenment institutions, our ruler and our small community, embraced the modern tendencies in architecture and these interesting and distinctive architectural solutions have enriched the appearance of the city. Even though it has been strongly influenced by tradition and the intermingling of East and West, Cetinje has, in late XIX century, succeeded to approach the modern European art and gradually ac44 cept European manners and way of living. Hence, we now have skiing, skating, tennis, golf... Two wonderful parks, nurtured since 1895, they were the concern of Princess Ksenija Petrović. She took care of the tree species and the number of trees. There we have tennis courts, as well as our summer stage which is reminiscent of ancient theaters and is of great importance to us when we are welcoming artists and entertainers from all sides. A VIEW FROM ABOVE Orlov krš arises above the city, on whose plateau was erected a mausoleum to Bishop Danilo, founder of the Petrović Njegoš dynasty. One can easily perceive whole of Cetinje from Orlov krš, our small, big city: red rooftops, historic buildings, streets and parks, small grassy parcels, orchards and small plowing fields planted with vegetables, they were hijack from the rock and, from a height, like as if they were painted on. If you are inclined to meditation, or simply wish to take a break from everything in a place where your view will only be disturbed by the birds, climb up to Orlov krš. Many things, just like many thoughts, have a different effect from here. It always had taverns in which interesting life unfolded, long and exhausting discussions were held on politics and other important issues, and cynical and quite benevolent humor was being born. Many anecdotes about lifestyle, famous people and current affairs are remembered, with original humorous messages that would dry one to tears. That interesting tavern lives has nowadays relocated into cafés, but people of Cetinje have not forgotten how good jokes are created, not have they forgotten that laughter is a cure and there are no hard feelings, no matter what happens. There, that kind of humor makes us people from Cetinje. Just as the pride makes us the people of Cetinje, pride of ancestors and bygone, glorious times, so our cafés, similar to Parisian bistros and Italian gardens, very often have symbolic names: Gaeta, Antib ... but none of them is like Lokanda! The giants of Cetinje’s humor sprang from the former Lokanda, and taught by that experience, we are easily subjected to everything that exhilarates the soul and beautifies life. We have three academies in our city: art, music and the academy of dramatic arts. They are situated in old buildings of former consulates, and remind us of the importance of artistic and every other relationship with the world. And the students, in their short breaks, joyfully and youthfully astonished adorn the, to us already, beautiful image of the city... If you wish to verify my words visit us. Come to Cetinje when the scent of the linden is noticed. I promise that you will laugh joyfully, that your soul will warm up. I promise that you will gain friends and easily understand why we love our city more than everything. And I guarantee: in the long shadows that fall on the walls of our buildings and houses before the sunset, you will recognize many of those great people who lived here and because of which Cetinje has always been your capital too. 45 PORTO MONTENEGRO Located in the UNESCO World Heritage Bay of Kotor, the Adriatic’s largest natural harbour, Porto Montenegro is a full-service marina and lifestyle destination for sea lovers from around the world. S U P E R YA C H T M A R I N A LUXURY RESIDENCES S H O P P I N G V I L L AG E WAT E R F R O N T D I N I N G PUROBEACH POOL & BAR WATER SPORTS & MOUNTAIN BIKING SPORTS CLUB WITH TENNIS & YOGA CHILDREN’S PLAYGROUND PIRATE SHIP NAVAL HERITAGE COLLECTION + 3 8 2 ( 0 ) 3 2 6 6 0 9 0 0 o r i n f o @ p o r t o m o n t e n e g ro.c o m w w w. p o r t o m o n t e n e g r o.c o m NA RULETU ISTORIJE SLAVI NAUK, (&)*"+$./ 6&@ &'' &A67B 9($C##9&< 9(''(&''&(+ '9: M ihaila, prvog kralja Duklje (Zete), za kralja (Rex Sclavorum) proglasio je papa Grgur VII 1077. godine. Mihailov sin Bodin (vladao od 1081. do 1101.) osnovao je Barsku nadbiskupiju 1089. godine uz pomoć pape, a na prijestolu ga je 1101. godine naslijedila njegova žena, kraljica Jakvinta. koji je došao na skijama u Crnu Goru. Bilo je to 17. januara 1893. godine. Sa Cetinja je krenuo u obilazak Crne Gore. Doživljaje sa tog putovanja opisao je kasnije u knjizi „Na skijama kroz Crnu Goru”. Na zahtjev knjaza Nikole kasnije je na Cetinje donio stotinu pari skija i osnovao kurs skijanja za vojnike i imućne crnogorske mladiće. ciji. Gvozdenović je jedan godišnji odmor proveo u Monte Karlu i na ruletu dobio orgroman novac, ali je zakasnio na voz za Varšavu, gdje je službovao. Da bi na vrijeme stigao u vojnu jedinicu u Varšavi, naručio je posebnu kompoziciju sa jednim vagonom! Prevoz je platio novcem dobijenim u kazinu i na vrijeme stigao u Varšavu. Ivan Crnojević je za svoju državu nabavio štampariju u Veneciji, koja slovi za prvu ćiriličnu državnu štampariju na svijetu. Francuski filozof Volter zapisao je: „Ima li na svijetu ijedne druge nacije osim crnogorske koja ima štampariju?”. Štamparija je svrstala tadašnje Crnogorce u prosvijećene evropske narode. Marin Bečić (1468, Skadar – 1526, Padova,) prvi je književni kritičar u Crnoj Gori. Književnu kritiku pisao je na italijanskom i latinskom jeziku. U Padovi je imao privatnu školu književnosti. Knjaginja Darinka Petrović, žena knjaza Danila, donijela je 1855. godine prvi kišobran u Crnu Goru. Vuk Popović Rišnjanin pisao je maja 1857. godine da se: „Sestre i nevjesta knjaza Nikole šetaju sa lumbrelinama u rukama kao maškare”. Mnogo kasnije, 1907. godine, Škotlanđanin Hari de Vint pisao je da u Crnoj Gori i muškarci nose kišobrane. Šćepan Mali, jedan od crnogorskih vladara čije porijeklo, pravo ime i zvanje još uvijek predstavljaju pravu enigmu, po mnogim pretpostavkama, bio je u stvari doktor filozofije Jovan Baljević. Baljević je doktorirao na Univerzitetu u Haleu u Njemačkoj, 1752. godine, a kasnije je postao major ruske vojske. Jedan od argumenata da je Šćepan Mali upravo Jovan Baljević jeste i to da bi neko vrlo teško mogao ostvariti ono što je pošlo za rukom Šćepanu Malom, a da nije bio Crnogorac koji je dobro poznavao mentalitet svojih sunarodnika. Princeza Ksenija (1881, Cetinje – 1960, Pariz), osma kćerka kralja Nikole i kraljice Milene, bila je prva žena na Balkanu koja je vozila automobil. Henrik Angel, norveški oficir, prvi je čovjek 54 Dimitrije, pop iz Crne Gore, bio je u XVI vijeku ambasador u kontaktima između Melanhtona, nasljednika Martina Lutera (osnivača protestantske crkve u Njemačkoj), i Vaseljenske patrijaršije. Često je putovao između Augsburga i Carigrada, pripremajući teren da se protestanti iz Njemačke pridruže pravoslavcima. Iznerviran odugovlačenjem Vaseljenske patrijaršije, učinio je obratno: preveo je njemačke katolike iz sedam rumunskih gradova u – protestantizam! Ante Gvozdenović (1854, Vučji Do – 1935, Ćeklići), general i crnogorski poslanik u Vašingtonu za vrijeme Prvog svjetskog rata, bio je ruski sanitetski general, službovao je u Vojno-medicinskoj upravi Kavkaskog vojnog okruga, a potom u Moskvi i Varšavi. Gvozdenović je bio jedan od prvih crnogorskih ljekara. Diplomirao u Moskvi 1872, a u vrijeme izgnanstva kralja Nikole bio je predsjednik crnogorske vlade u emigra- Kleant Teodorides, iz Cetinja, prvi je seksolog na svijetu. Dr Teodorides napisao je knjigu „Tajne bračne ljubavi”, prvu takve vrste na svijetu. Teodorides je Grk, rođen 1865. godine u Jedrenu. U Crnu Goru došao je kao dijete. Njegov brat bio je ljekar u turskoj vojsci za vrijeme Veljeg rata (1876–1878). Crnogorci su ga zarobili i on je ostao u njihovoj službi, a potom je čitava porodica Teodorides došla iz Grčke i nastanila se na Cetinju. Kao stipendista crnogorske vlade Teodorides je završio medicinu u Carigradu, a zatim je radio u cetinjskoj bolnici Danilo I. Zvaničnim osnivačem seksologije kao naučne discipline smatra se dr August Forel, koji je na francuskom jeziku objavio 1905. godine knjigu „Polno pitanje”, deset godina nakon knjige dr Teodoridesa. Ilustracija: Nada Bukilić 55 IN A ROULETTE OF HISTORY CELEBRATE EDUCATION, HOLD ON TO +$$0/ '@ &('$C##' +3+ D (B<(' ( M ihailo, the first king of Duklja (Doclea or Zeta), was declared a king (Rex Sclavorum) by Pope St. Gregory VII in 1077. Mihailo’s son Bodin (ruled from 1081 to 1101) founded the bishopric of Bar in 1089 with the help of the Pope, and was succeeded on the throne by his wife, Queen Jakvinta in 1101. Ivan Crnojević acquired a printing house in Venice for his own country, which is considered to be the first Cyrillic state printing house in the world. The French philosopher Voltaire wrote: “Is there any other nation in the world, apart from the Montenegrin, that owns a printing house?” The printing house placed the Montenegrin nation among the enlightened European nations. Šćepan Mali (Šćepan the Little), one of the rulers whose origin, real name and title still represents an enigma, under many assumptions was actually doctor of philosophy Jovan Baljević. Baljević received his doctorate at University of Halle in Germany 58 in 1752, and later became a major in the Russian army. One of the arguments that Šćepan Mali is actually Jovan Baljević is also that hardly anyone could achieve what Šćepan Mali managed to do, if he was not a Montenegrin who new the mentality if his fellow countrymen well. Princess Ksenija (Cetinje, 1881 - 1960, Paris), the eighth daughter of king Nikola and queen Milena, was the first woman in the Balkans to drive an automobile. Henrik Angel, Norwegian officer, was the first man to bring skiis to Montenegro. This happened in January 17th 1893. He left from Cetinje and set forth to tour Montenegro. He later on described the adventures from that trip in a book entitled “Traveling on Skiis through Montenegro”. At the request of Prince Nikola, he afterwards, brought hundreds of pairs of skiis to Cetinje and established a skiing training for soldiers and wealthy Montenegrin young men. Marin Bečić (Skadar, 1468 - Padua, 1526) was the first literary critic in Montenegro. He wrote literary criticism in Italian and Latin. He had a private school of literature in Padova. Dimitrije, a priest from Montenegro, was an Ambassador in XVI in contacts between Melanchton, Martin Luther King’s successor (founder of the protestant church in Germany), and the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople. He often traveled between Augsburg and Constantinople, preparing the field for the German Protestants to join the Orthodox Christians. Ante Gvozdenović (Vučji Do, 1854 - Ćeklići, 1935), general and Montenegrin delegate to Washington during the First World War, he was a Russian medical general, served in the Military Medical administration of the Caucasus military district, and then in Moscow and Warsaw. Gvozdenović was one of the first Montenegrin doctors. He graduated in Moscow in 1872, and during Illustration: Nada Bukilić King Nikola’s exile, he was an expatriate Prime Minister. Gvozdenović spent one holiday in Monte Carlo and won a substantional amount of money in roulette, but he was late for the train that was supposed to take him to Warsaw, where he served as an officer. In order to arrive on time in the military unit in Warsaw, he ordered a special composition with one carriage! He paid for the transportation with his own money that he won in the casino and arrived in Warsaw on time. Princess Darinka Petrović, Price Danilo’s wife, brought the first umbrella to Monte- negro in 1855. Vuk Popović Rišnjanin wrote in May of 1857 that: “Sisters and the bride of Prince Nikola are taking a walk with umbrellas in their hands like it is a carnival.” Much later, in 1907, Scotsman Harry De Windt wrote that in Montenegro even the men carry umbrellas. Kleant Teodorides, from Cetinje, was the first Sexologist in the world. Dr Teodorides wrote a book “Secrets of marital love” the first book of its kind in the world. Teodorides was Greek, born in 1865 in Adrianople. He came to Montenegro as a child. His brother was a doctor in the Turkish army during the war from 18761878. Montenegrins captured him and he stayed in their service, after which the whole Teodorides family came from Greece and settled in Cetinje. As a scholar of the Montenegrin Government, Teodorides graduated medicine in Constantinople, and then worked in Cetinje’s hospital “Danilo I”. Official founder of Sexology as a scientific discipline is dr Auguste Forel, who published a book entitled “The Sexual Question”, in French language in 1905, ten years after dr Teodorides’ book. 59 We invite you to experience unique feeling in unspoiled nature beauty, in the surrounding of Durmitor massif, its lakes, rivers and canyons. These resources make Zabljak one of the most beautiful mountain resorts in the Balkans. ABOUT HOTEL Respecting nature and environmental values, hotel SOA has been built at Žabljak, in the very heart of the National park Durmitor. Whether you are on a business trip, a romantic weekend or on a holiday with your family, Hotel offers you eight rooms and 10 suites that provide complete comfort. With a magnificent view of Durmitor massif, by fireplace, enjoy delicious meals and a selection of various desserts. Address: National park Durmitor 84220 Zabljak, Montenegro Tel: +382 (0)52 360 110 Fax: +382 (0)52 360 111 Mob: +382 (0)69 151 152 Email: [email protected] Web: www.hotelsoa.com PROIZVODNJA: Majevička br. 18 Tel: + 382 20 262 277 81000 Podgorica, Crna Gora www.doding.co.me SHOW ROOM: Cetinjski put bb (preko puta Delta city-ja) Mob: 069 018 181 Tel: + 382 20 290 290 KO BI TO REKAO? KANJON NEVIDIO Tekst: Doc. dr Goran Barović, Fotografija: Duško Miljanić @ &'9'9'& 7-6 8' 79 > E 9' F' &6&-6&F( )''9&' ''@ R ijeka Komarnica teče u visokoplaninskom pojasu Crne Gore. Prolaskom ispod mosta na Cikavcu, počinje najzanimljiviji dio Komarnice – kanjon Nevidio. starosjedioca ovog kraja izazivao je strahopoštovanje jer se mnogo puta desilo da u njega, zbog nepažnje, upadnu i stradaju i stoka i čobani. Zbog konfiguracije samog kanjona, kao i zbog nepoznavanja tehnika savladavanja takvih prepreka, u mnogim slučajevima nije bilo pomoći. Kanjon Nevidio posljednji je savladani kanjon u Evropi. Ekipa beogradskog Geozavoda 1957. godine prva je bezuspješ64 no pokušala proći kanjon – radi istraživanja u cilju formiranja Hidroenergetskog sistema „Gornja Zeta”. Drugi put to su pokušali i članovi ekspedicije koju su formirali Planinarski savezi Crne Gore i Srbije u ljeto 1964. Ekipa je napravila trase po njegovim stranama, a ujedno i obezbjeđenje za eventualni povratak nazad. Nakon nekoliko desetina metara, povratak nazad moguć je samo alpinističkim tehnikama. Sljedeće godine, samoorganizovana ekipa, koju je predvodio Miloš Bojanović, konačno je pobijedila mit kanjona Nevidio! Od tada se ovaj kanjon savladava, ali samo ako ste iskusni planinar, alpinista, ronilac, speleolog... Nevidio se može preći za dva do tri sata, naravno uz dobre plivačke i fizičke sposobnosti jer konfiguracija terena ne dopušta upotrebu plovnih sredstava. Prvi prolazak kroz kanjon trajao je tri dana. Sam kanjon dug je oko 3,9 km, a visinska razlika između Cikavca i sastavka sa Pridvoricom je oko 200 metara. Kanjon je na nekim mjestima dubok više od 350 m, a širok između jednog i pet metara. Članovi prve ekspedicije koja je savladala kanjon svjedoče da je strah od neizvjesnosti u koju su sve dublje ulazili i od opasnosti kojoj su bili izloženi bio izbrisan neo- čekivanom ljepotom kanjona. Usamljeno sitno rastinje koje se povremeno javljalo iz stijena, bijeli pjenušavi vodopadi, uski tjesnaci, mračne okapine, strme, kao nožem rasječene, litice i – oko podneva – poneki sunčev zrak, potvrđuju da samo priroda može sve ovo i ovako ukomponovati na jednom mjestu. Posjeta kanjonu moguća je samo ljeti, u vrijeme niskog vodostaja, zbog temperature vode koja ni tada ne prelazi 15˚C i zbog bezbroj skakala, bukova, brzaka i virova, ali i nepredvidljivih ćudi kanjona. Sve drugo je veoma rizično. Prostor oko kanjona karakterišu neobični prirodni motivi, zanimljive reljefne forme, veliki broj interesantnih speleoloških objekata, tragovi glacijacije, kao i reliktne i endemične biljne vrste. Ipak, svojom jedinstvenošću i neponovljivim geomorfološkim oblikom Nevidio nadvisuje sve te ljepote. WHO KNEW? NEVIDIO CANYON Text: Doc. dr Goran Barović, Photo: Duško Miljanić 7 (-6= 8'!>2795 77& 2> 5---' '6&7-6&( ' '@& K omarnica River flows in the highmountain strip of Montenegro. Upon passing under the bridge on Cikavac, begins the most interesting part of Komarnica - Nevidio Canyon. It inspires awe in locals from this region, because cattle and shepherds fell in and died many times due to carelessness. Due to the configuration of the canyon itself, as well as due to the lack of knowledge of techniques necessary to conquer such barriers, in many cases there was no help. Nevidio Canyon was the last conquered canyon in Europe. Team of “Geozavod” from Belgrade was the first to unsuccessfully attempt to pass through the canyon in 1957, to explore in order to form a hydro energy system, “Gornja Zeta.” The second attempt was made by the members of the expedition formed by the Mountaineering Association of Montenegro and Serbia, in the summer of 1964. The following year, a self-organized team led by Miloš Bojanović finally conquered the myth of Nevidio! This canyon has been conquered since then, but only if you are an experienced mountaineer, alpinist, diver, speleologist... Nevidio can be crossed within two to three hours, naturally, with good swimming and physical abilities, because the configuration of the terrain does not allow the use of vessels. The first passage through the canyon lasted three days. The team made tracks at its sides, and also a safeguard for the eventual return. After a few tens of meters, the return is only possible with climbing techniques. The length of the canyon itself is about 3.9 km, and the altitude difference between Cikavac and confluence with Pridvorica is about 200 meters. In certain places, the canyon is more than 350 m deep and between one and five meters wide. Members of the first expedition that conquered the canyon, testified that the fear of uncertainty in which they entered ever deeper and of the danger they were exposed to was erased by the unexpected beauty of the canyon. Solitary, small vegetation that occasionally emerged from the rocks, white foaming waterfalls, narrow straits, small dark caves, steep knife cut cliffs and - around noon - an occasional sunbeam, confirm that only nature can incorporate all this in one place in such a manner. Visit the canyon is only possible in summertime, during low water levels, due to temperature of water that, even then, does not exceed 15˚C and due to the myriad of waterfalls, rapids and whirlpools, as well as the unpredictable temperaments of Nevidio. Everything else is very risky. The area around the canyon is characterized by unusual natural motifs, engaging relief forms, numerous interesting speleological sites, traces of glaciations, as well as relict and endemic species of plants. However, with its uniqueness and unrepeatable geomorphological shape, Nevidio surpasses all those beauties. 69 LIMITED EDITION LIMITED EDITION Vinograd datira s početka dvadesetog vijeka. Nalazi se zapadno od Podgorice, na mikrolokaciji poznatoj u tradiciji i zdravicama kao Rupice komanske. Vinograd je integralni. Pored njega se nalaze višegodišnje smokve, dunje i kruške. This vineyard dates back to the early twentieth century. It is located west of Podgorica, at a micro-location recognised in the tradition and mentioned in toasts as Rupice Komanske. The whole vineyard is grown in one piece of land. Perennial figs, quince and pears can be found next to it. Vino sa ovog vinograda je 1907. godine učestvovalo na balkanskoj izložbi u Londonu, gdje je crnogorsku izložbu za četiri mjeseca, koliko je bila otvorena, posjetilo 1285000 ljudi, a kao dobro i visoko kvalitetno vino pilo se i na mnogim evropskim dvorovima. Wine from this vineyard was presented in the Balkan wine fair in London in 1907, which was open for four months, where the Montenegrin stand was visited by 1,285,000 people. Also, this wine was served as high quality wine in many European royal palaces. Vinograd je dva puta obnovljen - prvi put 1970. godine, a drugi put 2007. godine i to novim sortama loza, sa dvije autohtone vranac i kratošija i dvije italijanske sangenoveze i marselan. Za života prvog vlasnika, do početka 1980. godine, vinograd je održavan na tradicionalan ekološki način. Naime, vino i rakija su se proizvodili u malim količinana i prodavali poznatom kupcu u malim staklenim demidžanama od 5 litara, ispletenim prućem. Naslednica vinograda, poštujući tradiciju, a koristeći zemlju, klimu i ličnu emociju koju osjeća kao dug prema precima, počinje proizvodnju DI loze i DIvine sa potpisom svog đeda Milovana Pejovića na etiketi, nastojeći da održi nivo i način proizvodnje koju vinograd sa ovakvim karakteristikama zaslužuje, a trudeći se da pakovanjem udovolji najzahtjevnijim kupcima ovog vremena. Ime rakije su inicijali vlasnice, a ime vina je spoj inicijala vlasnice i engleske riječi za božansko, kako ovom vinu i pripada. U CRNOJ GORI PROBAJTE NAJBOLJE SA SOBOM PONESITE SAMO NAJBOLJE. Prodajna mjesta: Regal – impex free shop Podgorica, Tivat Forza Mare Luxury Hotel and Restaurant TAZEKS – H.Novi www.rupice.me The vineyard was re-grown twice – for the first time in 1970 and secondtime in 2007 when new varieties of grapes were planted - two autochthonous Montenegrin varieties: vranac and kratošija and two Italian varieties: genovese and marselan. During the lifetime of the first owner, until the beginning of 1980, this vineyard was grown in a traditional ecological way. Wine and brandy were produced in small quantities and were sold to famous buyers in small glass 5-liter wine bottles coated with woven branches. Heiress of this vineyard, while respecting the tradition and by using the soil, climate and personal emotion for her ancestors, began the production of DI loza (brandy) and DIvine (wine) with the signature of her grandfather Milovan Pejović on the label, trying to preserve the level and mode of production that vineyard of these characteristics deserves, also trying to satisfy the most demanding customers of this time with its packaging. Initials of the owner’s name make the name of the brandy, while the owner’s initials and the English word divine, which means having a nature of a deity, make the name of the wine which it certainly deserves. TRY THE BEST OF MONTENEGRO AND TAKE WITH YOU ONLY THE BEST FROM MONTENEGRO Sales: Regal – impex free shop Podgorica, Tivat Forza Mare Luxury Hotel and Restaurant TAZEKS – H.Novi www.rupice.me NAŠA BOGATSTVA BOTANIČKA BAŠTA U KOLAŠINU ODBRANA NJENOG 1'$"$ PRIRODE Razgovarala: Nada Bukilić Foto: arhiv Botaničke bašte Kolašin i porodice Vincek *) ,7 &' !:()'8'&'999& &(:'&G N a širokoj terasi nad rascvjetalom baštom proteže se dobro uhranjeni, žućkasti mačak. Sunča se, lijen i razmažen, kao da je sultanov. To je Darvin, mačak mezimac bračnog para Vincek. S obzirom na njihovu posvećenost biljkama i prirodi, nije mogao dobiti prikladnije ime. – Darvine, ručak, zove gospođa Zora, i mačak ulazi u kuću, što je dokaz da je Darvin vrlo nadaren za jezike. Dok mazi raskošna, mekodlaka leđa svog mačka, gospodin Vincek kazuje kako je do njih navraćao nemali broj Engleza. je prirodom, prirodnim ljepotama i raskošnim biljnim bogatstvom planinske Crne Gore. Bašta zauzima površinu od 646 metara kvadratnih, a nalazi se na nadmorskoj visini višoj od 1.018 metara. Izgrađena je na terenu gdje se susreću masivi Bjelasice i Sinjajevine. Prirodno, on je pogodan za planinsku floru, ovdje predstavljenu sa preko 350 vrsta. Baš kao što posjetioci, fascinirani biljnim svijetom, opsjedaju Botaničku baštu, tako i novinari opsjedaju gospodina Vinceka, ne krijući da ih ponajviše zanima kako se jedan Slovenac našao među našim gorjem i, ajde što se našao, nego još i ostao decenijama. Međutim, to što je Vincek Slovenac manje je važno od činjenice da je ovaj gospodin, u godinama za poštovanje, i elegantno i dostojanstveno istrajao u svojoj strasti: sve biljke zaslužuju pažnju, izučavanje, njegu i održavanje, ali Crna Gora ima biljni svijet dostojan poštovanja i ljubavi i to treba svima pokazati i dokazati! Ovaj veliki cilj, baštom koju njeguju i razvijaju, u cjelosti je ostvaren. Valjda ne postoji građanin Crne Gore koji ne zna za porodicu Vincek i njihov rad, pa čak i kad od flore više voli faunu. Botanička bašta se održava kao privatnojavno dobro i da nije pomoći onih koji ipak razumiju njen značaj, ne bi mogla opstati samo na entuzijazmu. Gospođa Zora Marjanović Vincek posebno se raduje planu opštine Kolašin po kome bi trebalo da se od 2012. do 2016. godine realizuje mnogo toga što će pomoći ekonomski napredak, potpomognuti održivi razvoj i valorizovati sve ekološke vrijednosti kolašinskog kraja. rodnu raskoš. Evo primjera: tu, u Trebaljevu, postoje tri velika, odlična plastenika u kojima bi se lako moglo gajiti cvijeće, koje je postalo vrlo tražena ‚roba’. Naime, u Crnu Goru uvezu se ogromne količine različitog cvijeća, čak i magnolije stižu u Kolašin u nevjerovatnom broju?! A mi te staklenike koristimo kao rasadnike drveća, i to drveća koje je ovdašnje i koje je, dakle, potpuno otporno i koje se sviklo na ove planinske i klimatske uslove. Obradovala sam se kad sam uočila da pojedini ljudi u opštini razumiju ovakve planove i podržavaju ih, iako je Kolašin grad sa ozbiljnim urbanističkim nedostacima, pa mora prvo riješiti neke takve prioritete. Kako je ova priča počela? – Uvijek mi je zanimljivo kako će Englez reagovati na Darvina. Jedni se dure, nije im baš pravo, a drugi – brojniji, s neponovljivim engleskim humorom, prihvate i mačka i njegovo veliko ime. Gospodin Vincek šturo govori o prošlim vremenima. Nešto se, možda, zaboravilo, nešto izaziva tugu pri pominjanju, ali najviše je onog što je već sto puta ispričano pa mu se ne da gubiti vrijeme na ponavljanja. Ali, ne zaboravlja da ponudi najljepšu jabukovaču moračkog kraja: Botanička bašta planinske flore Crne Gore, koju su u Dulovini (Kolašin), još 1981. godine, formirali Daniel i Vera Vincek i prof. dr Vukić Pulević, i danas je pravo blago, izvor ushićenja i mjesto predanog rada velikih entuzijasta, okvir trajanja njihove fascinaci- – Mislim da razgovor moramo početi čašicom dobre rakije. To je odlična rakija i ne razumijem zašto se ne proizvodi u većim količinama? Svi prave šljivu. Šljiva?! Molim vas, pa šljive ima svuda po svijetu, a jabukovače baš i nema! I u pravu je: rakija je kao prosvjetljenje! – Otišao sam ja u Zagreb i upisao biologiju. To me zanimalo, to sam volio. Ali, znate, tada – poslije II svjetskog rata, drugi su nam određivali što ćemo studirati. Mene su poslali u Beograd da izučim spoljnu trgovinu. Tako je i bilo. Dugo sam živio u Beogradu, radio, a onda sam zbog nekih glupisti (tuđih!) morao da odem. Došao sam u Crnu Goru i – ostao! Vi svi znate kakvo bogatstvo 74 imate, ali, istovremeno, svi zaboravljate da se to bogatstvo mora sačuvati! Zato smo mi stali u odbranu prirode! Sav naš trud ima samo taj cilj. OZBILJAN POSAO, OZBILJNA ZARADA – Ja sam, priča gospođa Zora, osmislila i napisala nekoliko projekata – upravo da bih na taj način skrenula pažnju na sve ono što nam je tu, pred očima, a ne vidimo kako da ga iskoristimo. Ponekad i ne znamo da imamo odlične uslove da se ozbiljno pozabavimo ozbiljnim poslom, koji bi nam donio zaradu, a istovremeno sačuvao svu pri- – Znate, ti plastenici bi napravili čudo za ovaj grad. U njima bi mogli gajiti toliko traženo cvijeće koje je – gotov proizvod! Jer, teško je shvatiti zašto Crna Gora izvozi, recimo, debla visokog izraslog drveća? Strašno je i izgovoriti koliko se stabala u Crnoj Gori godišnje sasiječe! Zašto, dakle, izvoziti sirovinu kad se mnogo više zarađuje izvozom gotovih proizvoda, a istovremeno šuma se sačuva? Ne razumijem, kaže gospodin Vincek. E, da, postoje stvari pred kojima i najpametniji zaćute. Naša, tipična saga. Nego, da se vratimo mi Njenom Veličanstvu Prirodi: 75 HVALI MORE, (&)*" %1$/ – Ja sam vam obišao cijelu Crnu Goru, vidio mnogo lijepog, ali ništa nije lijepo kao crnogorske planine. Imao sam prijatelje koji su me nagovarali da ostanem u primorju. Ma, ni slučajno! A koja je planina najljepša? – Tu imamo isti ukus, počinje gospođa Vincek. – Da, nastavlja njen suprug, najljepši su Komovi! Sa koje god strane da ih posmatraš, na ma koju kotu da dođeš – Komovi su veličanstveni! Njihova nesaglediva ljepota, sve što na toj planini postoji, raste, cvjeta, sve je to neoboriv dokaz da je priroda umjetnik bez premca! Zato bih volio da se posveti više pažnje planinama. Da se Crna Gora ne ostavlja u slijepom ćošku Evrope. Potrebni su nam dobri putevi, sigurne veze, ali, prije svega, dobro organizovan avio-prevoz. Montenergo Airlines radi dobro, ali mora učiniti još mnogo to- NAPITAK OD SALEPA ZORIN RECEPT Salep je antidijaroik, antitusik, mucilaginozum. Koristi se kod nespecifičnih proliva, kod promuklosti i nadražajnog kašlja. Posebno je koristan u pedijatriji. U narodnoj medicini poznat je kao afrodizijak. Krtole (korijeni) salepa dobro se operu u hladnoj vodi, nanižu se na konac i popare vrelom vodom (1–2 min). Potom se suše na suncu. Suve se samelju. Jedna kašičica (od kafe) salepovog korijena prelije se sa 250 ml mlake vode ili mlijeka i kuva 15 minuta. Zasladi se medom i začini đumbirom ili cimetom. Nazdravlje! P. S. Na isti način priprema se i ako vjerujete u savjete narodne medicine! 76 ga na plasmanu onoga što Crna Gora nudi. Dakle, ciljno i organizovano praviti ture za sve one bogate penzionere koji imaju i vremena i želje za putovanjima, ali i druge zaljubljenike u prirodu, da brzo i lako stižu u Crnu Goru, gdje mogu posmatrati čitav niz zanimljivosti. A sve na malom prostoru! Uzmite, recimo, Izraelce: oni bi rado dolazili da posmatraju ptice, gljive, ljekovito bilje, planine uopšte… – Mi to sigurno znamo, jer kroz našu baštu prođe i po dvije hiljade posjetilaca kad se, ovako s proljeća, ona otvori za goste. I, vjerujte, samo oni koji su iz Crne Gore ne pitaju gdje još mogu otići da vide još nešto. Svi ostali uvijek pitaju da li organizujemo izlete po planinama, kako da dođu do mjesta gdje rastu rijetke gljive, gdje su staništa pojedinih ptica, kako doći do planinskih jezera i rijeka i slično. Tužno je priznati da Kolašin to nema. – Sa druge strane, postoji ta, rekao bih, naopaka valorizacija crnogorske divlje ljepote: organizuju se reli vožnje, sa ogromnim džipovima, po planinama!? Molim vas, pa to se ne radi nigdje u svijetu, zabranjeno je, ima barem šest–sedam godina. E, a kod nas, ona jadna Bjelasica trpi upravo takvo uništavanje. Ministarstva, Vlada, svi moraju znati šta se dešava. Slična je situacija i sa markiranjem i uređenjem staza – primijetio sam da se daju velika sredstva pojedinim nevladinim organizacijama da, kao bajagi, markiraju staze kroz planine! I one to rade. Nevolja je samo u tome što su te staze davno proučene i obilježene! KUKURIJEK NA JAPANSKI $$.# DANIJEL VINCEK: Naši gosti su često zanimljivi ljudi. Svako od njih dođe sa svojom predstavom o tome šta je priroda, šta su biljke i kako ih sačuvati. Imate one ’romantičare’, koji biljku primjećuju samo ako ima cvijet, kroz pojavnost, boju. Imate i one koji vole mirisne biljke, ali i ‚praktičare’, koji cijene biljke ako su u službi zdravlja. Japanci su sasvim druga priča, bar ovi koji su bili naši gosti, potom saradnici i sada – prijatelji. CVIJET NAD CVJETOVIMA U čitavom tom izobilju biljaka cvjetnica, biljaka – prirodnih ljekova, žbunova i drveća, koja je biljka najdraža bračnom paru Vincek? – E, tu su nam ukusi različiti, kaže gospođa Zora. Ja biram jeremičak (daphne blagayana), ima nježni, sitni, bijeli cvijet. Danijel, kao i dr Vukić Pulević, više vole valeriana pancicii, odnosno macinu travu, kako se u narodu zove. – Ma, čujte, to je teško odabrati: meni su sve biljke, pogotovu cvjetnice, prekrasne i za mnoge ću naći razlog da baš ona bude ta najbiljka Crne Gore, dodaje gospodin Vincek. Ali, kako smo se složili sa Pulevićem, ali i sa drugima, macina trava EROTICA BOTANICA DANIJEL VINCEK: Među zanimljive biljke ovih prostora, svakako, spada koprčevina (Cachrys ferrulacea), dijete Libije i Alžira; raste još samo ovdje kod nas, u Gornjoj Morači. Pretpostavlja se da su je ovamo prenijeli rimski vojnici, koji su sigurno znali za njena ljekovita i druga svojstva. Naime, korijen biljke je veoma jak afrodizijak. Biljka ima sitan list, trajnica je, raste u širinu na velikim visinama i cvjeta svake godine. Doduše, cvijet joj nije atraktivan, ali joj korijen para vrijedi! Taj njen korijen je debeo i jak, kao muška nadlanica. Kada sam vodio prof. Nadu Kovačević, sa Instituta Josif Pančić, da vidi koprčevinu, izvukli smo jedan veliki korijen za proučavanje. Htio sam je slikati sa tim korijenom, a ona je odbila uz obrazloženje: „Ni slučajno! Zamislite da me studenti vide sa ovim čudom? Šta bi mislili o meni?” Poslije smo se cio dan smijali. ZORA MARJANOVIĆ VINCEK: Ima kod nas još sličnih biljaka. Takav je i salep (Orchis morio), doduše više je ljekovit nego afrodizijak. Moj djed je bio solunac i pričao mi je da su ih, kada su stigli na Krf, tamo zatečeni francuski ljekari liječili i pokušavali ojačati i vratiti u život, upravo salepom. Vrlo je ljekovit. DANIJEL VINCEK: Svakako, ali jeste i afrodizijak, to je veoma poznato na Bliskom istoku. Salep je, kao cvijet, prava atrakcija. Liči na kaćun, koristi se njegov korijen, koji, kad se usitni i istuca, ima blag, sladunjav ukus. zadovoljava više kriterijuma: ljekovita vrsta, raste i cvjeta na velikoj nadmorskoj visini, a kako je Crna Gora, ipak, pretežno planinska zemlja, onda upravo macina trava izražava njenu pravu prirodu i iskazuje njenu ljepotu. Pronađena je i prvi put opisana na planini Komovi, a iz poštovanja prema velikom botaničaru Josifu Pančiću, nosi njegovo ime. Odabrali smo je i za simbol naše botaničke bašte. Gledajući ovako ‚nebotanički’, samo na osnovu izgleda ili boje, najcvijet Crne Gore je, u stvari, cijela ova bašta! Njen neveliki prostor, dom je mnogim vrstama, baš kao što je i sama Crna Gora nevelika zemlja, a dom raznolikim i raznovrsnim biljkama, od onih uobičajenih mediteranskih do rijetkih, koje rastu i opstaju uz ledene vrhove planina. Daniel i Zora Vincek ponosni su na autohtone vrste, kao i na one endemske, ugrožene i zaštićene, o kojima vode veliku brigu. Znatan broj biljaka u Baštu je unošen sa Bjelasice, Sinjavine, Komova, Durmitora i Moračkih planina. Jedan dio je unesen i sa vrhova primorskih planina Rumije, Orjena i Lovćena. Prilagodile su se i lijepo rastu u novom domu. Sve biljne vrste u Bašti su označene latinskim, a dio i narodnim imenima. Još postoji onih koje nijesu dovoljno izučene, pa su njihovi nazivi ‚pozajmljeni’ iz literature, uglavnom iz radova: D. Simonovića, V. Pulevića, R. Lakušića i Č. Šilića. .0( LJUBAVI Prema riječima Danijela Vinceka, Bašta ima zadatak da prikaže, sačuva, prikuplja i populariše planinske autohtone vrste Crne Gore, posebno one ugrožene i zaštićene: – Uz to, mi moramo djelovati edukativno u očuvanju genofonda, ali moramo pružiti i osnove za naučna istraživanja mladih botaničara i biologa. Zato sarađujemo sa Prirodno-matematičkim fakultetom, Prirodnjačkim muzejom, sa Zavodom za zaštitu prirode. Uostalom, kada smo prije tri decenije osnivali baštu, uz veliku stručnu pomoć dr Vukića Pulevića, dr Čedomila Šilića, prof. Toneta Wrabera i drugih, obavezali smo se da će naša ideja vodilja i krajnji cilj uvijek biti zaštita prirode! Priroda i prirodno je ono što imamo i što možemo ostaviti budućim pokoljenjima ili svijetu. Niko od nas nije ni Mikelanđelo ni Leonardo i svijet nećemo zadužiti slikama. Ali, moramo za života učiniti sve da sačuvamo, recimo, rijetku biljku koja je preživjela još od ledenog doba, a sada joj prijeti istrebljenje. E pa ta biljka, taj rijetko viđeni cvijet, najljepša je slika koju možemo ostaviti svijetu. Posebnu sreću imao sam u životu što sam mogao aktivno posvetiti vrijeme, sve ove godine, svojoj velikoj ljubavi – prirodi! Kukurijek, cvijet koji cvjeta u rano proljeće i koji je za nas u Crnoj Gori sasvim ‚običan’ (imamo 4 vrste), uopšte ne raste u Aziji. To je za Japance nepoznata biljka. Prije nekoliko godina u našu Baštu došla je grupa Japanaca i oduševili su se kukurijekom. Najprije su ga posmatrali i proučavali u vrijeme cvata, onda su došli sljedeći put da sakupe sjeme. Pokušali su i uspjeli da ga razviju u Japanu. Nijesu tu stali već su ga ukrstili sa nekim njihovim biljkama, radi bolje prilagodljivosti i otpornosti, i iz tih hibrida stvorili su nove kukurijeke živopisnih boja. Sada postoji čitava industrija koja se bavi isključivo odgajanjem i razmnožavanjem ovih hibridnih sorti kukurijeka i, naravno, njegovom prodajom. Pedantni i posvećeni, naši prijatelji Japanci poslali su nam album sa fotografijama odnjegovanih kukurijeka. Čekamo ih da ponovo dođu. E, sad: uporedite Japance sa nama, kojima je kukurijek najobičnija ‚trava’ na svijetu! Kad smo sa Japancima krenuli u potragu za kukurijekom, sretnemo jednog prijatelja, Kolašinca. Pozdravi se on sa nama i pita kuda ćemo. Odgovorim, a on kaže: „A šta će im kukurijek, to ni stoka neće da jede?!”. 77 World of communications belongs to us because we communicate in a way the whole world understands. Become a part of the largest PR network in the world! PR - MEDIA MONITORING - DIGITAL Mila Radunovica S|3, Podgorica, Crna Gora / T: +382 20 239 174 | F: +382 20 239 169 / www.represent.co.me OUR TREASURES BOTANICAL GARDEN IN KOLAŠIN DEFENSE OF HER MAJESTY THE NATURE Interview by: Nada Bukilić Photo: Archives of the Botanical Garden and Vincek family '3'', ! 8'&(& 7 & 'G Botanical Garden of the mountain flora of Montenegro, which was formed in 1981 in Dulovine, Kolašin by Daniel and Vera Vincek and prof. dr Vukić Pulević, is to this day a real treasure, a source of delight and a place of dedicated work of great enthusiasts, frame of the duration of their fascination with nature, natural beauties and lavish, floral wealth of the Montenegrin mountains. Garden occupies an area of 646 square meters and is situated at an altitude higher than 1018 meters. It was built on the ground where the massifs of Bjelasica and Sinjajevina encounter each other. Naturally, it is suitable for mountain flora, here represented with over 350 species. O n the wide terrace hanging over the blossoming garden, well nourished, yellowish tomcat is stretching. He is sunbathing, sluggish and spoiled, as if he belongs to the Sultan. That is Darwin, the favorite tomcat of the Vincek couple. Given their commitment to plants and nature, he could not have gotten a more appropriate name. - Darwin, lunch, calls Mrs. Zora and the cat enters the house, which is a proof that 80 Darwin is very gifted for languages. While cuddling the lavish, soft-coated back of his tomcat, Mr.Vincek tells how they were visited by quite a few Englishmen. -I always find it interesting how an Englishman would react to Darwin. Some sulk, it is not exactly right by them, while the others – more numerous, with unique English humor, accept the cat and his great name. Just like the visitors, fascinated with the plant world, besiege the Botanical Garden, the journalists besiege Mr. Vincek, not hiding the fact that they are mostly interested in how one Slovenian found himself among our mountains and, not solely found himself, but remained here for decades. However, the fact that Vincek is Slovenian is less important than the fact that this gentleman, in years worthy of respect, with dignity and grace persisted in his passion: all plants deserve attention, study, care and maintenance, but Montenegro has a flora worthy of respect and love and that should be shown and proved to everyone! This great goal has been achieved entirely with a garden that they nurture and develop. I guess there is no Montenegrin that has not heard about the Vincek family and their work, even if he prefers fauna to flora. How did this story begin? Mr. Vincek reluctantly talks about the past times. Something has, perhaps, been forgotten, something causing sorrow upon mentioning, but most of it he told a hundred times and he is not to waste time on repeating. However, he does not forget to offer the most beautiful apple-brandy of Moraca’s area. - I think we need to start a conversation with a glass of good brandy. That is a great brandy and do not understand why it is not produced in large quantities? Everyone makes plum brandy. Plum?! Please, there are plums are everywhere in the world, and apple-brandy not so much! And he is right: apple-brandy is like enlightenment! - I went to Zagreb and enrolled in biology. It interested me, I liked it. But, you know, then - after the World War II, others decided what we will study. I was sent to Belgrade to study foreign trade. And so it was. I lived in Belgrade for a long time, worked, and then due to some nonsense (someone else’s!) I had to leave. I came to Montenegro – and stayed! You know about the treasure you have, but at the same time, you all forget that that treasure needs to be preserved! Therefore we stood in nature’s defense! All of our efforts have only that goal. Botanical Garden is maintained as a private - public good and if it was not for the help of those who understand its importance, it could not survive solely on enthusiasm. Mrs. Zora Marjanović Vincek is especially looking forward to the plan of Kolašin municipality, according to which a lot is supposed to be realized from 2012 until 2012, which will help the economic growth, support sustainable development and valorize all environmental values of the Kolašin region. Darwin, The Cat PRAISES THE SEA, HOLDING ON TO THE +02$/ - I toured the whole of Montenegro, I saw many beautiful things, but nothing is as beautiful as the mountains of Montenegro. I had friends who persuaded me to stay at the seaside. Oh, not a chance! And that is the most beautiful mountain? - Here we have the same taste, Mrs. Vincek begins. -Yes, her husband continues, Komovi are the most beautiful! From whichever side you observe them from, to any elevation you climb - Komovi are magnificent! Their immeasurable beauty, everything that exists on that mountain, grows or blossoms, all that is indisputable evidence that Nature is a peerless artist! This is why I would like more attention to be devoted to the mountains. For Montenegro not to be left in the blind corner of Europe. We need good roads, secure connections, but first and foremost, a well organized air transport. Montenegro Airlines is working well, but they must do more regarding the marketing of what Montenegro has to offer. Hence, tours need to be made, in a marketed and organized manner, for all those wealthy pensioners who have the time and desire to travel, but also for other nature lovers, to quickly and easily arrive to Montenegro, where they can observe a whole range of attractions. And everything in a small area! Take, for example, the Israelis: they would gladly come to watch birds, mushrooms, medicinal plants, mountains in general... - We are sure of that, because two thousand visitors pass through our garden when we open it for guests in the springtime. And, believe me, only those from Montenegro do not ask where else they can go to see something. Other always ask whether we organize excursions to the mountains, how to reach the places where the rare fungi grow, where are the habitats of certain birds, how to get to the mountain lakes and rivers and so on. It is sad to admit that Kolašin does not have that. - On the other hand, there is this, I call it, an upside down valorization of the Montenegrin wild beauty: organized rally rides, with enormous jeeps, on the mountains!? Please, this is not done anywhere in the world, it has been prohibited for at least six, seven years. And in our country, that poor Bjelasica suffers such destruction. Ministries, the Government, everyone must know what is happening. The situation is similar with the arrangement and marking of paths - I noticed that substantial resources are being provided for 81 some non-governmental organizations to, allegedly, mark the trails through the mountains! And they do it. The trouble is only that these paths have been studied and marked a long time ago! THE FLOWER ABOVE ALL FLOWERS Throughout this variety of flowering plants, plants - natural medicines, shrubs and trees, what is the most favorite plant of the Vincek couple? - Well, here we have different tastes, says Mrs. Zora. I chose Blagay’s Daphne (daphne blagayana), it has a delicate, small, white flower. Danijel and dr Vukić Pulević prefer valeriana pancicii, or valerian, as it is popularly called. - Well, listen, it is difficult to choose: I find all plants, especially floriferous ones, to be beautiful, and for many of them I will find a reason to have her be Montenegro’s best plant, adds Mr. Vincek. But as we agreed with Pulević and with others as well, valerian satisfies several criteria: medicinal species, growing and blooming at high altitudes, and since Montenegro is a predominantly mountainous country, precisely that valerian expresses its true nature and reflects her beauty. It was found and EROTICA BOTANICA DANIJEL VINCEK: Cachrys ferulacea belongs among the interesting plants of this area, the child of Libya and Algeria, growing here only in Gornja Morača. It is assumed to have been brought here by Roman soldiers, who certainly knew of its medicinal and other characteristics. Namely, the root of the plant is a very powerful aphrodisiac. The plant is perennial, has a small leaf, and grows in width at high altitudes and blossoms every year. Admittedly, its flower is not that attractive, but its root is valuable! That root is thick and strong, like the back of a man’s hand. When I took prof. Nada Kovačević, of the Josif Pančić Institute, to see Cachrys ferulacea, we extracted one large root for study purposes. I wanted to photograph her with that root, and she refused, arguing: “Not a chance! Imagine if my students saw me with this miracle? What would they think of me?” Later on, we laughed about it all day. ZORA MARJANOVIĆ VINCEK: There are more similar plants in our country. Such is the green-winged orchid or salep (Orchis morio), although it is more healthful than an aphrodisiac. My grandfather is from Thessaloniki and he told me that when they arrived at Corfu, the French doctors there treated them and tried to strengthen and bring them back to life using the green-winged orchid. It is very healthful. DANIJEL VINCEK: Certainly, but it is also an aphrodisiac, this is very well known in the Middle East. The green-winged orchid, as a flower is a real attraction. It looks like the orchid, and its root is used, when crushed into small pieces it has a mild, sweet taste. described for the first time on the Komovi Mountain, and out of respect for the great botanist Josif Pančić, it bears his name. We have selected it as the symbol of our botanical garden. From a non- botanical point of view, based only on appearance or colors, Montenegro’s best flower is, actually, this whole garden! Her smallish space is home to many species, just as Montenegro itself is a rather small country, and is a home to vibrant, diverse plants, ranging from BEVERAGE FROM THE GREENWINGED ORCHID - ZORA’S RECIPE The green-winged orchid (salep) is an antidiarrhoeal, antitussive, mucilaginosum. It is used for non-specific diarrhea, hoarseness and irritative coughing. It is particularly useful in pediatrics. It is known as an aphrodisiac in folk medicine. Tubers (roots) of the green-winged orchid are washed thoroughly in cold water, strung together on a thread and steamed with hot water (1 - 2min). Afterwards, they are left to dry in the sun. When they are dry, they are grinded. One teaspoon of the green-winged orchid root is poured over 250 ml of lukewarm water or milk and cooked for 15 minutes. Sweetened with honey and seasoned with ginger or cinnamon. Cheers! P.S. It is prepared the same way if you believe in folk medicine advices! 82 common to rare Mediterranean ones, which grow and survive along the icy mountain peaks. Daniel i Zora Vincek are proud of the autochthonous species, as well as those endemic, endangered and protected, taking major care of them. A significant number of plants were brought into the garden from Bjelasica, Sinjajevina, Komovi, Durmitor and Morača’s mountains. Some of them were brought from the peaks of coastal mountains Rumija, Orjen and Lovćen. They have adapted and are growing nicely in their new home. All plant species in the Garden are labeled in Latin, part of them have common names known among the people. There are still those that are not sufficiently studied, and their names are “borrowed” from the literature, mainly from the works of: D. Simonović, V. Pulević, R. Lakušić and Č. Šilić. MORE THAN LOVE According to Danijel Vincek, the Garden has the task to display, preserve, collect and popularize indigenous mountain species of Montenegro, especially those endangered and protected: - In addition, we must act educationally in order to preserve the gene pool, but we must also provide the basis for scientific research of young botanists and biologists. That is why we cooperate with the Faculty of Natural Sciences, Natural History Museum, with the Institute for Nature Protection. After all, when we founded the garden three decades ago, with great expertise help of Vukić Pulević, dr Čedomil Šilić, prof Tone Wraber and others, we have committed that our guiding principle and ultimate goal will always be the protection of nature! Nature and natural is what we have and what we can leave to future generations or the world. None of us are either Michelangelo or Leonardo, and we will not put the world in debt with paintings. But we must do everything during our lifetime to preserve, for instance, a rare plant that has survived since the ice age up to this era, and is now in threat of extinction. Well, that plant, the flower seldom seen, is the most beautiful painting that I, or we, can leave to the world. I was lucky in life to be able to actively devote my time, for all these years, to my great love - nature! HELLEBORE IN A JAPANESE AND OUR WAY DANIJEL VINCEK: Our guests are often interesting people. Each of them comes with its notion of what nature is, what plants are and how to preserve them. You have those “romantics”, who only notice a plant if it has a flower, through the appearance, color. You have those who love fragrant plants and “practitioners” who appreciate the plants if they are in the service of health. The Japanese are an entirely different story, at least those who were our guests, then associates and now - friends. om, next time they came to collect the seed. They tried and succeeded to develop it in Japan. They did not stop there, they crossed this flower with some of their plants in order to gain better adaptability and resilience, and from those hybrids they have created new colorful hellebores. There is now a whole industry that deals exclusively with raising and breeding of these hybrid varieties of hellebores and of course, its sales. Meticulous and dedicated, our Japanese friends have sent us a photo album with nurtured hellebores. We are waiting for them to visit us again. Hellebore, a flower that blossoms in early spring and that is for us in Montenegro quite “ordinary” (there are 4 types!), does not grow anywhere in Asia. For the Japanese it is an unknown plant. A few years ago, a group of Japanese visitors came to our garden and were ecstatic about hellebore. At first they observed and studied it at the time of its blo- Now: compare the Japanese with us, to whom hellebore is the most ordinary grass in the world! When we went looking for hellebores with the Japanese, we met a friend from Kolašin. He greets us and asks where we are going. I told him and he replies: “What are they going to do with hellebore, even livestock won’t eat that?!” 83 Sutomore Brod VUK 1 Transport 85310 Budva, Jadranski put bb Tel/Fax: +382 (0)33 451 502 e-mail: [email protected] www.rtours.me 191036 St. Petersburg, Russia 2 Sovetskaya 7, Buisness center SENATOR, off 003 Tel/Fax: +(812) 332 6813/3326815 e-mail: [email protected] www.piter.rtours.ru 117292 Moscow, Russia D. Ulianova 16/2 off. 319 Tel/Fax: +(495) 937 5722/125 6927 e-mail: [email protected] www.rtours.ru TAXI TRANSFER Budva 35€ Tivat St Stefan 35€ Kotor Petrovac 30€ Herceg Novi Bar 35€ Kolašin Ulcinj 50€ Bijelo Polje Airport Podgorica - Podgorica 45€ 45€ 65€ 40€ 55€ 8€ Berane Andrijevica Villa La Mer Офис в Баре: +382 (0)30 319 068 Мария Бабошкина +382 67 44 99 88 Телефон в Москве: +7 (495) 646 02 7 www.montenegroprospects.ru [email protected] ВИЛЛА LA MER ДОМ ИЗ СНА ЭКСКЛЮЗИВНА И КОМФОРТНА 27€ 75€ 80€ 90€ 75€ Cetinje Tirana Skadar 18€ 85€ 55€ Invoice payment for companies can be delayed. Villa La Mer находится в Добрых Водах, недалеко от Бара. Общая площадь 220 m2, 4 больших спальни, Море в 200м 3 ванных комнаты и одна индивидуальная, Закончены грубые работы и будущие вход из спальни, владельцы могут сами выбрать внутренний Гостиная/столовая 50 m2 с панорамным дизайн и отделочные материалы остеклением 4x2.5m Эксклюзивная вилла с круговым видом на Бассейн 11 x 4 m море. Парковка Алюминиевый профиль Фасад отделан камнем Теплые полы Солнечная система Сплит система Резервуар 50m3 Кабельное и спутниковое телевидение, интернет Zabilježila: Nada Bukilić, Fotografija: Relja Eraković GALERIJA MIODRAG ŠĆEPANOVIĆ %$&.#3 $$. N iko nije postao svetac u svom kraju, kaže stara izreka. Ta, uslovno rečeno, omeđenost krajem iz kojeg potiču, biva, često groteskno, opravdanje mnogih koji su silno željeli, a nikada se nijesu popeli do vrhova Olimpa da sa muzama ispiju, u ime zahvalnosti, makar pehar vina. O bogovima ni slovca! Šćepanović se ne krije iza izreka, ni kada su tačne. Njegov kraj nije ni mali ni veliki. Ne krije se ni iza usuda države u kojoj živi. Samo diletanti traže domovinu u državnom ustrojstvu. On iza sebe i pred sobom ima – skulpture. Skulpture koje je neprilično objašnjavati i nepristojno opisivati na stranicama magazina. O STRPLJENJU Odrastajući u malom, planinskom gradu, gdje je najveća pouka iz umjetnosti ona koju dobijete od nastavnika likovnog vaspitanja, Šćepanović je ipak zarana razumio pravu prirodu svog bića i, ne odustajući, išao za svojim nadahnućem. Završio je Akademiju u Beogradu („Ma, kasno sam se ja upisao, imao sam čak 25 godina tada”, kaže) i vratio se u Kolašin. Od 1983. godine, kada je dobio nagradu Fakulteta likovnih umjetnosti u Beogradu, tih i strpljiv i sa kamenom i sa sobom samim, Šćepanović kontinuirano stvara svoje skulpture, najčešće iz oblutaka koje nalazi po planini i rječnim obalama. U međuvremenu, izlaže samostalno ili kolektivno, i njegovo ime i rad ‚ulaze’ u našu spoznaju, čuvamo ih tu negdje, ali… Sve je to slično čekanju. Čekanju u kojem se ćuti. Ćuteći i strpljivo radeći i izlažući, Miodrag Šćepanović podiže porodicu. Njegova lijepa djeca, a četvoro ih je, imaju sigurno najnježnijeg oca na svijetu. Na 88 njihovim su policama figurice u veselim bojama: zečevi, vjeverice, ježevi, medvjedi i vuci, patuljci, lovci, princeze i vitezovi... Od žice otac im je napravio figure tananih žena, plesačica ljepotica, i lovaca s kopljima – oko njih se jasno čuju bubnjevi Afrike. Niko nema tako vrijedne igračke. Sa istim strpljenjem gradi kuću – sam. Zbog kamena kojim je sam ozidao zidove, zbog te boje podova i zidova, koje je opet on sam uradio, kuća je živa: ima vene, udara joj srce, pulsiraju pluća, diše. To je dom u kojem pri svakom otvaranju vrata u sobe ulazi lijepa namjera, topla želja, dobra nada i nježna riječ. Djeca rastu nasmijana i srećna. Zanimljivo je koliko je stvarnog razumijevanja u očima ove djece, kao i prirodnog, jednostavnog i jedinstvenog ponosa na oca i njegov rad. Kada su dječaci, igrajući se, nepažnjom polomili očevu skulpturu (drag, važan rad sa Akademije, u gipsu), toliko su se izbezumili da je ocu bilo teško išta reći. Umirili su se tek kada je ‚zakrpio’ skulpturu i vratio je, koliko se moglo, u prijašnje stanje. Toliko o dječijem „nerazumijevanju” umjetnosti. O NAGRADAMA „Tišinu oko Šćepanovićevog rada ukinula je nagrada na Jesenjem salonu skulpture u Parizu”, zabilježio je istoričar umjetnosti Mladen Lompar. Ukinula je tišinu i ćutanje i čekanje. „Izdržao sam”, jednostavno kaže Šćepanović. Iako je 2003. godine dobio nagradu ULUCG „Lubarda, Stijović, Milunović”, Šćepanović je postao u potpunosti ‚naš’ kada je osvojio prvu nagradu za skulpturu – „Pol Belmondo” na Jesenjem salonu u Parizu, 2006. godine! Mnogo smo se obradovali! Svi! Od publike, likovnih kritičara, pa do lokalnih političara u kraju. Toliko o našem razumijevanju umjetnosti i umjetnika. Povodom ove nagrade, Šćepanović je jednostavno rekao: „Duže od dvadeset godina dokazujem da to što radim jeste skulptura. Dokazao sam da takva skulptura nije prevaziđena”. Inače, još od 2003. godine Šćepanović redovno izlaže na Jesenjem salonu, što je rijetkost. Ono što ga uvijek obraduje jeste način postavke i mjesto koje za njegovu skulpturu biraju u Salonu. Nema sumnje da bi slično doživio i kada bi svoje skulpture izlagao u Kanu, Nici ili Firenci, gdje ga uporno pozivaju. „Ima sila koje mi ne daju otići”, smješka se umjetnik, ne želeći ni da se zapita: ko je to preči, kada se odlučuje o afirmaciji i podršci našim umjetnicima? Mir koji čuvaju njegova nekolebljiva gorštačka plemenitost i stvaralačka potencija, ne može ni da se zagrebe onim poznatim pritužbama „neshvaćenih umjetnika”. Nema on ni &&:&&':' /' @)'''!'' ''' 9(''' ' 9(' =9'' &9& '&'''7 ''' -*:H' S 89 EHO 245$ ŠĆEPANOVIĆ: „Imate vajare koji ne umiju da ponove svoje uspjele skulpture. Ne mogu jer polazna skulptura, koja se ljudima učinila lijepom, nije original već eho glasa iz tuđeg bića, replika tuđeg glasa. Svaka moja skulptura je prepoznatljiva… Svi poznaju moj rukopis i znaju da se radi o mojoj skulpturi, bez obzira na materijal i format. Znaju jer sam to ja.” sa njima ništa zajedničko. Sam i svoj, ide naprijed i priprema se za izložbu koja će biti organizovana na ljeto. O ODLASKU Ako se i buni ili ljuti zbog nečega, Šćepanović to čini u ime drugih: „Zaprepastio sam se nedavno kada je došao jedan moj kolega vajar da ovdje traži kamen za svoje skulpture. Brzo su ga uočili, pitali šta radi i – otjerali! Uz obrazloženje da je to zabranjeno, da se ne smije! Svašta?! Tjeraju vajara, a ne brane rijeku i kamen od građevinaca, kamenolomaca i sličnih”. Na pitanje da li mu je, zbog takvih stvari i još mnogo čega, padalo na pamet da ode, živi i stvara negdje drugo, kaže: „Upoznao sam, odlazeći u inostranstvo, mnoge umjetnike sa ovih prostora. Među njima je mnogo, posebno u Francuskoj, onih koji ne mogu da žive od svoje umjetnosti; zato redom imaju, ponekad i daleko od Pariza, svoje firme, farme ili rančeve, gdje rade da bi uopšte opstali. Ali, zato kad dođu na Balkan, oni su nešto posebno jer žive u Francuskoj! Pa su, kao, umjetnici iz Francuske! Možda bih i otišao negdje, ne znam, kada bi se od vajarstva dalo živjeti. A farmu mogu imati i ovdje, blizu Kolašina…”. 90 O UZORIMA „U mojim skulpturama poneko prepoznaje uticaj skulptura Rista Stijovića ili sličnost sa njima. Možda je tako... Mene fascinira egipatska kultura, njihova arhitektura i vajarstvo. U Luvru sam proveo više vremena posmatrajući egipatsko umjetničko čudo nego sve ostalo što se tamo može vidjeti. Volim kompaktnost, stilizaciju, odnose masa i monumentalnost egipatskog vajarstva… Veći od svih i u svim vremenima je Mikelanđelo… Njegove skulpture su vrhunac, pojam, smisao i suština umjetnosti uopšte.” IZ KATALOGA Mladen Lompar: „Šćepanović je od samog početka ‚odbio’ ponudu vremena da gradi svoj izraz na antiakademskim uticajima, i krenuo je u pravo prepoznavanje sebe, u poštovanju tradicije i klasičnih vrijednosti vajarstva… Nema bojazni za njegov rukopis – on jednostavno ostaje isti… Izuzetna skulptorska sigurnost u očiglednim i doziranim intervencijama i težnja da se ispoštuje prirodno stanje jesu ključna konstanta Šćepanovićevog rada.” Slobodan Slovinić: „Šćepanović u stvaralačkom postupku ne praktikuje da pravi skice i crtačke predloške. Zapravo, on se prevashodno oslanja na svoje imaginativnomentalne vizije i stvarateljsko-magične ruke koje na volšeban način uspijevaju da amorfnu, kamenu masu pretoče u tople i harmonizirane skulptorske eksplikate… Vrlo staložen i izuzetno smiren, Šćepanović ne uzurpira i ne siluje kamenu masu. On je maksimalno poštuje, nježno miluje i suptilno brusi… I tako se rađaju mnogi ženski portreti, torza, figure, te asocijativne predstave domaćih i divljih zoomorfnih egzemplara. Sve su površinski ručno polirane, kako bi do maksimalnog izražaja došli autentični strukturaliteti i hromatsko bogatstvo odabranog kamena…” 91 GALERRY MIODRAG ŠĆEPANOVIĆ PARISIAN, BUT OURS E &(' ('& /' @) ! ' '('' + .'''' '+ =' &' '' + ' -J ('- By: Nada Bukilić Photo: Relja Eraković N obody became a saint in his own neighborhood, the saying goes. That enclosure, so to speak, by the place they originate from often becomes a grotesque justification of many who strongly wanted and have never climbed the peaks of Mount Olympus to drink even cup of wine with the muses, in the name of gratitude. Not to mention the Gods! Šćepanović is not hiding behind sayings, even when they are true. His place is neither small nor big. There is no hiding behind the destiny of the state in which he lives. Only dilettantes are looking for the homeland in the state organization. Behind and in before him, he has – sculptures. Sculptures that are improper to explain and inappropriate to describe on the pages of a magazine. ON PATIENCE Growing up in a small, mountain town, where the greatest lesson you receive from art is the one you get from the art teacher, Šćepanović still understood the real nature of his being very early, and not giving up, followed his inspiration. He graduated from the Academy in Belgrade (“Oh, I have enrolled quite late, I was 25 years old at the time,” he says) and returned to Kolašin. Since 1983, when he received an award from the Faculty of Fine Arts in Belgrade, quiet and patient and with a stone and himself, Šćepanović continually creates his sculptures, mostly of pebbles he finds in the mountain and river banks. In the meantime, he has individual or collective exhibitions, and his name, i.e. his work “in94 vests” in our cognition, we keep them here somewhere but... This is all similar to waiting. Silently waiting. While keeping silent and patiently working and exhibiting, Miodrag Šćepanović raises a family. His beautiful children, there are four of them, certainly have the most gentle father in the world. Their shelves hold figures in bright colors: rabbits, squirrels, hedgehogs, bears and wolves, dwarves, hunters, knights and princesses. Their father made figures of delicate women, from wire, beautiful dancers and hunters with spears – the drums of Africa can be clearly heard around them. No one has such valuable toys. He is building a house with the same patience – himself. The house is alive because of the stone he used to build the walls, because of the color of floors and walls, which he also did himself: it has veins, its heart is beating, lungs pulsating, and it is breathing. This is a home in which, upon every opening of the door, beautiful intention enters the rooms, warm wish, good hope and gentle word. The children are growing happy and with smiles on their faces. It is interesting how much real understanding there is in the eyes of these children, as well as natural, simple and unique pride of a father and his work. When the boys have, while playing, inadvertently broke his father’s sculpture (dear, important work with the Academy, in plaster), they were in such a frenzy that it was hard for their father to say anything. They calmed down only when he “patched up” the sculpture and returned it, as much as possible, to the original state. So much for children’s lack of understanding of art. ON REWARDS Mladen Lompar, an art historian noted: “Silence around Šćepanović’s work was broken by the reward at the Autumn Salon (Salon d’Automne) of sculpture in Paris.” It broke the quiet and silence. “I endured”, Šćepanović simply stated. Although Šćepanović won an award from ULUCG (Association of Montenegrin Visual Artists) “Lubarda, Stijović, Milunović”, he became our own completely when he won the First prize for a sculpture “Paul Belmondo” at the Autumn Salon in Paris in 2006! We were very happy! All of us! From the audience and art critics to local politicians in the neighborhood. So much for our understanding of art and artists. Regarding this award, Šćepanović simply stated: “I have been proving for twenty years that what I do is sculpture. I have proven that this kind of sculpture is not obsolete.” By the way, since 2003, Šćepanović regu95 When asked if these kinds of things, and much more, made him think of leaving, living and creating somewhere else, he says: ”While traveling abroad I met many artists from this region. Among them, especially in France, are many who cannot live from their art; so they have, sometimes far away from Paris, their own companies, farms or ranches, where they work to survive. But, when they arrive to the Balkans they are special because they live in France! So they are artists from France! Maybe I would leave somewhere, I do not know, if one could live from sculptures. I can have a farm here, near Kolašin...” ON ROLE MODELS “Some people recognize, in my sculptures, the influence or similarity with the sculptures of Risto Stijović. Perhaps it is like that... larly exhibits at the Autumn Salon, which is rare. The thing that always rejoices him is the setting style and the place they chose for his sculpture in the Salon. He would, undoubtedly, experience something similar if he would exhibit his sculptures in Cannes, Nice or Florence, where they have been persistently inviting him. “There are forces that prevent me from going”, smiles the artist, not even wanting to ask: who is more FROM THE CATALOG Mladen Lompar: “From the beginning, Šćepanović “declined” the offer of time to build his own expression on anti-academic influences, and instead he set off in real self –recognition; in respecting the tradition and values of classical sculpture... there is no fear for his handwriting – he simply remains the same... Exquisite sculptural assurance in obvious and proportioned interventions and desire to honor the natural state are a key constant of Šćepanović’s work.” Slobodan Slovinić: “In his creative process, Šćepanović does not tend to make sketches and drawing templates. In fact, he primarily relies on his mental-imaginative visions and creative-magical hands that miraculously manage to transfer the amorphous, stone mass into warm and harmonized sculptural explications ... Very calm and exceptionally serene, Šćepanović does not usurp or rape the stone mass. He respects it to a maximum, gently caresses and subtly grinds...This is how female portraits, torsos, figure are born, those associative representations of domestic and wild zoomorphic exemplars. They are all hand-polished at the surface, to obtain the full expression of genuine structuralities and chromatic richness of selected stone ...” 96 important when deciding on the affirmation and support of our artists? The peace being kept by his unwavering highlander generosity and creative potential cannot even be scratched by those familiar complaints of “misunderstood artists”. He has nothing in common with them either. Alone and his own, he moves forward preparing for an exhibition to be organized in the summer. ON DEPARTURE Even if he rebels or angers about something, Šćepanović does it on behalf of others: “I was stunned recently when one of my fellow sculptors came here searching for a stone for his sculptures. He was quickly noticed and questioned about what he does – and driven away! With the explanation that it is prohibited, not allowed! Unbelievable! They are driving away the sculptor rather than defending a river and stone from construction workers, quarryman and similar.” I am fascinated by Egyptian culture, their architecture and sculpture. In Louvre I spent more time watching the miracle of Egyptian art, that everything else there. I love compactness, stylization, mass relations and monumentality of Egyptian sculpture... Greater than all and in all times is Michelangelo... His sculptures are the culmination, the notion, substance and the essence of art in general. “ ECHO OF SOMEONE ELSE’S BEING ŠĆEPANOVIĆ: “You have sculptors that cannot reproduce their successful sculptures. They are unable, because the initial sculpture, which the people found beautiful, is not an original but an echo of a voice from another being, a replica of someone else’s voice. Each one of my sculptures is recognizable... Everyone knows my signature, they know my sculpture, regardless of the material and format. They know because that is who I am.” 97 XXXQSWBCBOLBDHDPNrJOGP!QSWBCBOLBDHDPN $FOUSBMB#VMFWBS4WFUPH1FUSB$FUJOKTLPH 5FMr'BY Skulpture: M.Šćepanović SAVREMENA CRNOGORSKA POEZIJA PAVLE GORANOVIĆ NA MEĐUNARODNOJ LINIJI SOLUN−MINHEN 5 " 6% 7!+$ % 1 8/ 9 :" / * : 6 ; 1 ' JJoš oš jedno jedno v eliko spremanje spremanje veliko Na mjestu gdje su se nekada nalazile moje knjige, na tom mjestu, dakle, !" #$ Regina Olsen 8 ( < = > - 1 4 - - 1 ( % ? % & ' ' ( )*+ - " ( - ( ( ( - iz doba kada se nije dolazilo lako Na mjestu gdje su se nekada nalazile moje knjige, . / 01% .23' %- 4 uspomena sa jezera Komo, ( * zemlje, - " LUQV` [YH]LSPUN SLH]L[OLYLZ[[V\Z :4 Ramada Podgorica Montenegro Proud Member of the Wyndham Hotel Group www.ramadapodgorica.me Phone: +382 (0)20 622 623 Fax: !" #! 9HTHKH7VKNVYPJHPZV^ULKI`.PU[HZHUKTHUHNLKI`:VWOVZ/V[LSZ:(\UKLYMYHUJOPZLMYVT9HTHKH>VYSK^PKL0UJ V]LY OV[LSZ Sculptures: M.Šćepanović MODERN MONTENEGRIN POETRY PAVLE GORANOVIĆ REGINA OLSEN ( A&A B1 <@ A (=@ (G A@@AAG& D ( A & A&&3@@( AA(@A A (G A @LG A AAL @& @A 1((& &M @& @G@ 1 %A @ ? - A/9D ON THE INTERNATIONAL ROUTE SALONIKA - MUNICH J A %6 ( A $ %G-%0 O 3( A ( & / .A .A A . ( A & CA / (A& (. -(@ . A&6 A& (A@ 6AA 3(& & 1 @A A ( @ @ - A/*4&& Another Great Preparation (@ A A& && A @&& && B & CA A& @ - A&@ @A A @ ( A& @ D A E&& A @ A -@ ( A& @ & -& A A @ A& @A& A -A& & : 1AA( @ & 7*+ AA@ 0 & @ @ AF A && A A A @& & @A A & A @ @A 1 6 @ CA 6 A @ A 1 @ 9 (& - A &A&A. A&. (@ & @@GA @ (@ A @ . @ A & / @ . &% A &&23' @ % - 1 & A &H & IF @ (@ J A 6 & A . & & -@( . @@ & - A/1 *3 PAZI, SNIMA SE, AS PIK! 6& 7 '9&) ? ' 9&''' &' 9&9 -! 9'& 9 ' 9& %!6$) I STARA DOBRA RAKIJA N U filmu igraju crnogorski glumci srednje generacije, ali i oni mlađi: Branimir Popović, Danilo Čelebić, Jelena Simić, Dragan Račić, Momčilo Otašević…, dajući priči autentičnu mentalitetsku notu, za koju se reditelj Đurović nada da će biti poseban kvalitet filma. Uz naše glumce u ekipi filma su i 112 srpski glumci Milica Milša, Rastko Janković, Peđa Bijelac (vidjeli smo ga kao čarobnjaka u filmu Hari Poter IV), ruski glumac Gregorij Pusep, ali i holivudska zvijezda Michael Madsen! Zajedno, oni čine prvu međunarodnu filmsku ekipu koja učestvuje u je upravo Michael Madsen, jer nije baš bilo za očekivati da ga vidimo u Crnoj Gori, a kamoli u našem filmu! No, jednostavnost i profesionalizam ovog zvijezdama okićenog holivudskog glumca, i u tih nekoliko dana, koliko je trajalo snimanje scena u kojima on A--*' '& (&9''':' ')': & (:---B jednom crnogorskom filmu, nakon što je odnedavno obnovljena crnogorska kinematografija! Svaka čast svima, ali našu pažnju zaokupio učestvuje, ostavili su dubok utisak na sve. Madsen je strpljivo slijedio rediteljeva uputstva, vrlo kooperativno učestvovao u stvaranju situacija i scena i, prijemčivošću i ljubaznošću, zaslužio poštovanje cijele ekipe. „Prije svega radi samog filma (lijepo je imati u glumačkoj ekipi strance, posebno zvijezde svjetskog glasa), ali i radi iskustva nas ostalih. To je prilika da glumci na očitom primjeru vide i dožive rad glumca kojem su se do tada samo divili, da neposredno osjete bar dio njegove harizme, konačno – i da se uporede sa njim, što može biti dobra smjernica za njihov budući rad. A za reditelja je to posebno zadovoljstvo, pogotovu kada se desi da se sjajno razumijete”, kaže Đurović. Istim povodom, Madsen kurtoazno komplimentira Đuroviću tvrdnjom: „Tarantino i Đurović me najbolje razumiju – ne stavljaju me u kutiju!”. On sam bio je fasciniran okolinom Bara i Ulcinja, arhitekturom starih gradova, kontrastima blagog mediteranskog priobalja i visokih strmih planina nad njima. „U ovim pejzažima osjećam i prepoznajem ambijet filma Rajanova kći. Taj film pamtim i volim i zbog Roberta Mitchama, mog glumačkog uzora… Mora da vam je lijepo živjeti ovdje.” Film je sada u procesu postproostprodukcije i njegovo prikazivaazivanje se očekuje u avgustu, stu, na nekom od festivala. Sa u i nadom da je Madsenu Crna Gora, sem ljudi sa kojima je radio, ostala u srna, necu kao lijepa uspomena, zivanje. strpljivo čekamo prikazivanje. Biće zaista lijepo vidjeti ga kako og Bara ili ulazi na velika vrata Starog … trči niz ulcinjske stijene… Michael Madsen je, budući da je kratko ostao u Crnoj Gori, u svega nekoliko navrata osjetio crnogorsko gostoprimstvo i to začinjeno rakijom! Uostalom, on je došao da radi i vrlo savjesno je to obavio, ali se moralo malo i predahnuti! Baš za vrijeme jednog od predaha Madsen je sa kolegama pio staru, dobru, domaću lozu: „Uh, ovo je jače od škotskog viskija!”. I, ko zna, možda, kad naša kinematinuitet, a Crna tografija uspostavi kontinuitet, o kvalitetna, Gora se prepozna kao erano skupa inspirativna i ne pretjerano destinacija za snimanje filmova, buetati u našim de sasvim očekivano sretati vijezde koje gradovima svjetske zvijezde jene dobru vole jednostavnost i cijene lozu… Zabilježila: Aida Rastoder a živopisnim barskim i ulcinjskim lokacijama, koje su poslužile kao idealna kulisa za filmsku priču, reditelj Draško Đurović snimio je novi film. As pik, po scenariju Obrada Nenezića, jeste melodrama koja tretira devedesete godine minulog vijeka i sva ona iznenađenja i traume koje su te godine donijele u naš svijet i u našu svijest, a prelomile se kroz lične živote pojedinaca – kao refleksije našeg kolektivnog iskustva, sa trenutnim ili dalekosežnim posljedicama. i nasmije i odobrovolji i razoruža snimateljsku i glumačku ekipu, kao što to učine prave profesionalci i dobromisleće ličnosti. Jer dok se radi, svi smo u nekakvoj trci, borimo se i sa vremenom i sa svim drugim predviđenim i nepredviđenim problemima, stalno smo da kažem ‘budni’ i napeti iz bojazni da nešto ne ode naopako”, kaže reditelj Đurović. „Tako smo napeto čekali scene sa Madsonom, a on je učinio da nam to bude najlakši dio posla. I kad nam je čestitao na izboru rakije, i mi smo povjerovali da je loza čudo!” Madsonova uloga u filmu As pik za njega je, vjerovatno, zanemarljiv biografski detalj, ali je za sami film i za crnogorski film uopšte značajno pojavljivanje ovakve zvijezde. %&1$'0 LICE NEGATIVCA Michael Madsen je, poput drugih velikih glumaca, svoj zanat pekao prvo kroz pozorišne uloge. To iskustvo, naslonjeno na evidentan talenat (i Madsenova sestra je istaknuta glumica i pjevačica – Virginija Madsen) i specifičan glumački izraz, učinilo je od njega – glumca koji suvereno vlada scenom odnosno ekranom i kada igra manju ulogu, čak i kada igra negativca, a igrao je priličan broj baš takvih likova. Poštovaoci filmske umjetnosti pamte ga iz čitavog niza vrlo uspješnih filmova: Thelma & Louise (gdje mu je partnerka bila neponovljiva Susan Sarandon), Kill Me Again, Doni Brasco, Kill Bill 1, 2, Reservoar dogs, Free Willy, James Bond – Die another day… MEGAFON Michaelu Madsenu veoma je smetalo što se Đurović ekipi obraća preko megafona. Činilo mu se da reditelj stalno viče (taj utisak je pojačavala jezička barijera). Zato je bio vrlo zadovoljan kad je megafon u jednom trenutku nestao. Svi su se dali u p g Đurović jje baš objašnjavao j j potragu. američkom glumcu da mu je megafon neophodan jer je to jedini način da umiri crnogorsku ekipu, kad su megafon, konačno, pronašli. Madsen je tada priznao ono što su svi već shvatili: on je sakrio od reditelja taj mrski predmet… „Rijetko ko uspije da u tako malo vremena 113 Hotel . Restaurant . Catering Vo j i s l av l j e v i ć a 7 2 , Po d g o r i c a od/from 35€ t/f: 020 641 777 m: 067 614 777 m: 069 777 740 e: [email protected] www.hotel-laguna.me ATTENTION PLEASE, CAMERA ROLLING AS PIK! On the set of As Pik with director of the film Draško Đurović LANDSCAPES AND GOOD OLD SCHNAPPS ?& J -J' '(,('&( - O n the picturesque locations of Bar and Ulcinj, which served as the perfect backdrop for the story line, director Draško Djurović made a new film. As pik, upon the screenplay by Obrad Nenezić, is a melodrama which deals with the nineties of the past century and all those surprises and traumas that those years brought into our world and our consciousness, and broke through the personal lives of individuals - as reflections of our collective experience, with current or far reaching consequences. Montenegrin actors the middle generation star in this movie, as well as the younger ones: Branimir Popović, Danilo Čelebić, Jelena Simić, Dragan Račić, Momčilo Otašević… providing the story with an authentic note of mentality, for which director Djurović hopes will be the movie’s special quality. Along with our cast, the film crew includes Serbian actors Milica Milša, Rastko Janković, Peđa Bijelac (we saw him as a wizard in the movie Harry Potter IV), Russian actor Gregorij Pusep, and the Hollywood star Michael Madsen! Together, they form the first international film crew that participates in a Montenegrin film, following the recent renewal of Montenegrin cinematography! Well done to everyone, but our attention is occupied by Michael Madsen, because it was unexpected to see him in Montenegro, much less in our film! However, the simplicity and professionalism of the star-decorated Hollywood actor made a lasting impression on everyone, during those few days while the scenes in which he participates lasted. Madsen patiently followed the directors instructions, very cooperatively participated in the creation of situations and scenes, with responsiveness and kindness, earned the respect of the whole crew. He was fascinated by the surroundings of Bar and Ulcinj, the architecture of old cities, contrasts of mild Mediterranean coast and the high, steep mountains above them: “ I feel and recognize the ambience of the movie Ryan’s daughter in these landsca- 116 pes. I remember and love that movie because of Robert Mitchum, my acting idol ... It must be lovely living here. “ Michael Madsen has, given that his stay in Montenegro was short, in just a few occasions felt Montenegrin hospitality and it was flavored with schnapps! After all, he came to work and very conscientiously did just that, but a little breather was necessary! During one of the breaks, Madsen drank good, old local grape schnapps with his colleagues: “Oh, this is stronger than Scotch Whisky?” “People rarely manage to, in such a short while, laugh and appease and disarm the camera and cast crew, as true professionals and well-meaning individuals do. Because, while we are working, we are all in a rush, fighting with time and with all the other problems, foreseen and unforeseen, we are constantly, to say, “awake”, tense and fearful that something might go wrong, “ says director Djurović. “So we tensely awaited for scenes with Madsen, and he made them the easiest part of the work. And when he congratulated us on the choice of schnapps, we too believed that grape schnapps is a miracle! “ Madsen’s role in the film As pik is probably an insignificant biographical detail for him, but for the movie itself and for the Montenegrin film in general, the appearance of such a star in our story is significant. “Primarily because of the film itself (it is nice to have foreigners in the cast, particularly world renown stars), but also for the experience of the rest of us. This is an opportunity for actors to see an apparent example and experience the work of the actor whom they previously only admired, to feel at least a part of his charisma, ultimately - to compare themselves with him, which can be a good guideline for their future work. And it also represents a particular pleasure for the director, especially if you happen to understand each other perfectly” Djurović said. On the same occasion, Madsen courteously compliments Djurović saying: “Tarantino and Djurović understand me the best – they do not place me in a box!” The movie is now in the post-production process and its screening is expected in August, on one of the festivals. We are eagerly waiting for the screening, hoping that Madsen has Montenegro, as well as the people he worked with, in his heart as a beautiful keepsake. It will be really great to see him entering the front door of Old Bar or running down Ulcinj’s rocks ... And, who knows, perhaps when our cinematography establishes a continuity, and Montenegro is recognized as a quality, inspirational and not too expensive destination for filmmaking, it might be quite expected to meet international stars in our cities, who love simplicity and appreciate the good old grape schnapps... Attractive face of a villain Michael Madsen has, like many other major actors, crafted his trade through theater roles first. That experience, leaning against an obvious talent ( Madsen’s sister is a prominent singer and actress, Virginia Madsen) and a specific acting expression, has made him - the actor that dominates the screen i.e. the stage, even when he is playing a minor role, or a villain, and he played a very considerable number of such characters. The admirers of cinematic art remember him from a number of highly successful films: Thelma & Louise (where his partner was the unique Susan Sarandon), Kill Me Again, Doni Brasco, Kill Bill 1,2, Reservoir dogs, Free Willy, James Bond – Die another day… and others. Loudspeaker Michael Madsen was very bothered that Djurović addressed the crew through the loudspeaker. It seemed to him that the di- rector is continuously yelling (that impression was reinforced by a language barrier). Therefore, he was very pleased when the loudspeaker disappeared at some point. They all started searching. Djurović was just explaining to the American actor that the loudspeaker is necessary because it is the only way to calm down the Montenegrin team, when the loudspeaker was finally found. Madsen then admitted what everyone had already realized: he hid the hateful object from the director... 117 Bar Ulica Vladimira Rolovića bb · +382 (0) 30 303 872 Bijelo Polje Ulica 3. januara 7 · +382 (0) 50 430 432 Berane Ulica Mojsija Zečevića 22 · +382 (0) 51 230 454 Pljevlja Budva Ulica 22. novembra bb · +382 (0) 33 403 844 Cetinje Ulica Njegoševa bb · +382 (0) 41 230 100 Bijelo Polje Herceg Novi Trg Nikole Đurkovića 26 · +382 031 350 310 Berane Rožaje Kotor ŠC “Kamelija” · +382 (0) 32 302 032 Nikšić Nikšić Ulica Njegoševa 1 · +382 (0) 40 212 711 Pljevlja Ulica Kralja Petra I · +382 (0) 52 300 380 Herceg Novi Podgorica Kotor Tivat Podgorica Cetinje Budva Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 33 · +382 (0) 20 409 409 Ulica Marka Miljanova 46 · +382 (0) 20 440 440 Bulevar Pera Ćetkovića 51 · +382 (0) 20 610 120 Rožaje Ulica Maršala Tita bb · +382 (0) 51 270 274 Tivat Trg od kulture bb · +382 (0) 32 660 420 Bar Ulcinj Ulica 26. novembra bb · +382 (0) 30 401 316 Ulcinj www.erstebank.me PAZI, SNIMA SE! ODRASTANJE, LJUBAV 7(&2%&' 7' '(' (&& 6':&& ?=&'+ :' :'' 9&' && ': &-6 / ') ' ('G Zabilježila: Aida Rastoder Fotografija: Aleksandar Jaredić iz urbane problematike dva istovremeno ista i različita grada – Titograda i Podgorice. N ovi crnogorski film, koji se snima u dvije etape, ima vrlo nostalgično i simbolično ime – DJEČACI IZ ULICE MARKSA I ENGELSA. Film režira Nikola Vukčević, poznati crnogorski reditelj i profesor Filmske režije na FDU Cetinje. Zanimljivo je da je snimanje filma podijeljeno na zimsku i ljetnju etapu, a ta dvojnost vremena, u stvari, simboliše dva doba našeg glavnog grada, dva doba u životima filmskih junaka, odnosno dva lica istog grada i istih ljudi, koji su tokom odrastanja preživjeli i doživjeli mnogo toga. Nastavak snimanja počeće pred samo ljeto i u ovoj etapi igraće drugi glumci (izuzev pojedinaca) kako bi se dočarao protok vremena. Biće, dakle, istih junaka, ali sada dvadesetak godina starijih. Za očekivati je da film bude završen početkom 2013. godine s obzirom na to da je montaža snimljenog materijala već počela. Glumačka podjela je takođe zanimljiva, pa u filmu igraju i već afirmisani glumci iz regiona, ali i studenti cetinjske Akademije: Ana Sofrenović, Nebojša Glogovac, Emir Hadžihafisbegović, Branimir Popović, Momčilo Otašević, Branka Stanić i drugi. hovim intimnim istorijama, o vrijednostima koje ne prolaze. Reditelj Vukčević pojašnjava da će njegov film biti priča o Titogradu i Podgorici, o porodici i odrastanju, o mladim ljudima i nji- Scenario su napisali dramska spisateljica Milica Piletić i reditelj Vukčević, na osnovu motiva drame „Instant” poznatog srp- 120 skog pisca i reditelja Đorđa Milosavljevića. Pozorišnu verziju teksta, pod naslovom „Instant seksualno vaspitanje”, Vukčević je režirao 2009. godine za Gradsko pozorište Podgorica, pa je novi scenario nadgradnja te priče sa nizom kulturno-socioloških slika ($0(.!$ DOBA: %&0.10" "$($.!0" Film Dječaci iz ulice Marksa i Engelsa snima se u dva vremenska perioda. Zimski dio filma vezan je za prošlost porodice koja se opisuje u priči, a ljetnji za temu koja se tiče sadašnjosti. Na taj način producenti su željeli da vizuelno i likovno odvoje prošlost (1991–1993) i vežu je za zimski period, a u ljetnjem vremenu potenciraju motive sadašnjosti (2008). Radnja filma je vezana za početak devedesetih godina (kada je nastala i pjesma „Ne brini”, grupe U škripcu), pa je scenografija prilagođena osobenostima tog vremena (Podgorica je ponovo postala Titograd). Osim Ane Sofrenović, Emira Hadžihafisbegovića i mlade Branke Stanić – u ljetnjem dobu, odnosno sadašnjosti, svi ostali akteri biće bi promijenjeni. NA BRZIM STAZAMA ISTORIJE ! " #$% & ' (' )*% )+% ' ), %' ,*) 121 ATTENTION PLEASE, CAMERA ROLLING! A ATTEN By: Aida Rastoder Photographs: Aleksandar Jaredić dić GROWING UP, LOVE & OTHER STORIES ' 6':&? ' +=9'& ((?-K3 /8' ' &G sed on the motives of the drama called “Instant”, by a famous Serbian writer and director Djordje Milosavljević. Theatrical version of the text, entitled “Instant sexual education,” Vukčević directed in 2009, for the Podgorica City Theatre, so the new scenario is an upgrade of that story with a series of cultural and sociological images from the urban issues of two, simultaneously, same and different cities - Titograd and Podgorica. Continuation of shooting will begin just before summer and this stage will include other actors (with the exception of certain individuals), to depict the passing of time. Therefore, the characters will be the same, but now twenty years older. The film is expected to be completed in the beginning of 2013, given that the editing of the already recorded material has already begun. ON THE FAST PATHS OF HISTORY Explaining the framework of the story, director Vukčević emphasizes that during the last 20 years history consistently occurred in the Balkans (wars, coups, strikes, ensuring of existence, opposite set of values), that never cared about the personal histories of young people - first kisses, growing up and emotional maturity ... “This film deals with such young people whose personal / intimate history has no alternative and whose hopes and desires are stronger than the circumstances that separate them, “ Vukčević said. “The story of the movie, in his words, deals with family and what arises from it in a time of disintegration. T he new Montenegrin movie which is filmed in two stages, has a very nostalgic and symbolic name Boys from the Marx and Engels Street. The film is directed by Nikola Vukčević, famous Montenegrin director and professor of film directing at the Faculty of Dramatic Arts in Cetinje. Interestingly, the filming of the movie is divided into winter and summer stages, and 124 that duality of time, in fact, symbolizes two eras of our capital city, two eras in the lives of movie heroes, i.e. two faces of the same city and same people who have, while growing up, survived and experienced a lot. Cast division is also interesting, and some renowned actors from the region play in the movie, as well as the students from the Academy in Cetinje: Ana Sofrenović, Nebojša Glogovac, Emir Hadžihafisbegović, Branimir Popović, Momčilo Otašević, Branka Stanić, and others. Director Vukčević explains that his film will be the story of Titograd and Podgorica, about family and growing up, about young people and their intimate histories, the values that do not pass. The screenplay is written by playwright Milica Piletić and director Vukčević, ba- The focus is on issues regarding values and satisfaction of drives and needs, through maturation, which is much faster and much different from the one they had hoped for. In addition, the story is being built at the junction of the hard dramatic style and very comic elements, with a series of local distinctiveness, containing the spirit of the universal, stemming from Titograd as well as from Podgorica. Momčilo Otašević on a set: “Boys from the Marx and Engels street” TWO SEASONS: PAST AND PRESENT The movie “Boys from the Marx and Engels street” is filmed in two time periods. Winter part of the movie is related to the past of the family being described in the story, and the summer part is related to the topic that concerns the present. In this way the producers wanted to visually and artistically separate the past (19911993) and link it to the winter period, while emphasizing the motives of the present (2008) in summer time. The plot is related to the beginning of 90s (when the song “Ne brini” by a band called “U škripcu” originated), so the stage design is adapted to the peculiarities of that period (Podgorica became Titograd again). Apart from Ana Sofrenović, Emir Hadžihafisbegović and young Branka Stanić - in the summer season, i.e. the present, all other actors will be replaced. 125 STAMBENO POSLOVNI KOMPLEKS PODGORICA Ul. Oktobarske revolucije 130 +382 69 150 516 +382 20 634 001 U ŽABLJAKU IZGRADNJA I PRODAJA STANOVA, POSLOVNIH PROSTORA STANOVI OD 37 m2 DO 136 m2 "ŽIVITE SVOJ SAN UZ SAVRŠEN STAN" t +382 20 647 222 m +382 69 168 268 m +382 69 268 268 m +382 69 368 268 @ [email protected] a Bracana Bracanovića 40c, Podgorica www.razvrsjerentacar.me EUROSONG 2012 IQ TESTOM '9 &97': ) &:'9 '4& &(' =') '*(' L)&9F)*(< Fotografije: Duško Miljanić, Dalibor Ševaljević K I, kada je pjesma bila završena, čak su i najvjerniji fanovi i poštovaoci Rambovog djela i lika, nanovo otkrili zašto ga vole: radi se o čovjeku nesagledive kreativnosti i umjetniku neuporedive imaginacije. Dio publike je, međutim, razočaran – to su oni koji ni do sada nijesu razumjeli Rambov stil i opus, i koji radije slušaju ljubavne i slične tugovanke. Za pjesmu je, kako to zahtijevaju evrovizijske propozicije, bio neophodan i spot. Produkciju spota, RTCG povjerila je agenciji MAPA iz Podgorice. Kreativni direktor ovog projekta je Radmila Vojvodić, a reditelj Miha Knific. U snimanju je učestvovala brojna ekipa, a povremeno je na setu, sa sve statistima, bilo i po osamdesetak ljudi. Osnovne ideje bile su da spot mora promovisati prirodne, odnosno turističke vrijednosti Crne Gore (spot je sniman u februaru, po ne baš lijepom vremenu, a na atraktivnim lokacijama crnogorskog primorja), ali i da mora izraziti osnovnu intenciju: ne smije, kao ni sama pjesma, ni po čemu sličiti uobičajenom evrovizijskom senzibilitetu! Tako je nastala „priča” o ovdašnjem čovjeku koji se silno trudi da „izađe u susret Evropi”, razumijevajući na svoj način njene uzuse i vrijednosti, i prerađujući ih onako kako sam on može, a sve sa svojih deset prstiju i jednim magarcem! Magarac je u spotu jer Rambo kaže da: „Magarac simbolizuje održivi razvoj – mnogo radi, a malo troši; skroman je, pouzdan.” No, razumjeli ga ili ne, slagali se sa njim ili ga smatrali za sasvim pogrešan izbor za Eurosong, Rambova Euro neuro pjesma svima nam je pokazala da se o Evropi može razmišljati na bezbroj načina, kao i da bezbroj puteva vode pravo u Evropu. Najbrže oni direktni, ali… Simpatično je da je magarac, ustvari magarica – Anči, sa kojom nije bilo ni malo problema pri snimanju. Odlično se snalazila, ne samo po kotorskim ulicama i na ulcinjskoj plaži – bila je na visini zadatka čak i u hotelu Splendid! Ni malo je nijesu zbunili ni bazen, ni ljepotice oko nje, pa čak ni ma- ada je Rambo Amadeus, Svjetski Kilo Car, prihvatio da nas predstavlja na Evroviziji, znali smo unaprijed da ćemo od njega dobiti samo original! Ali, kakav i na koju temu, e to nijesmo ni naslućivali! Rambo je gotovo dva mjeseca radio na pjesmi, a publika je čekala. Sa nestrpljenjem. Poneko i sa tremom, jer ljudi imaju različite predstave o tome šta je i kakva treba biti euro-pjesma. Tim prije što je Rambo kratko prokomentarisao da se prihvatio ovog posla da bi „ostao dosljedan sopstvenoj kontroverznosti”. E, baš ta kontroverza je i brinula naš, inače na svašta svikli, slušalački puk. 128 $&0%2/ seri! Njena uloga dobija na važnosti na samom kraju spota kada pojede sav novac iz džepa svog već umornog gazde Ramba… Zato se nadamo da će Rambo biti shvaćen diljem raspjevane Evrope, jer su komentari spota i pjesme više nego ohrabrujući. Jedan od zanimljivijih komentara je onaj u londonskom „Indipendentu” gdje je Rambo nazvan najintrigantnijim izvođačem na ovogodišnjem Eurosongu, pa mu je još, uz izvinjenje britanskom predstavniku, britanski novinar obećao i glas! Najljepši komen- tar, koji se odlično uklapa u cijelu ovu priču, jeste da Euro neuro, u stvari nije pjesma već „test inteligencije”! Me Istina je da, ne samo nama, već i Evropi, nedostaje i nove estetike i nove poetike. Iako „kontroverze radi” odlazi na Eurosong, Rambo će otvoriti vrata jednoj novoj, drugačijoj i, svakako, nelicemjernoj poetici, samim tim što se ničim ne udvara navikama i očekivanjima stare muzičke dame. Jer, ipak je on Svjetski Kilo Car! o nit Mo a di ga rin nd Analysis Pr od u Graphic Design cti on Na prvoj polufinalnoj večeri, nastupa naš Kilo Car, i to prvi. Ne baš sjajne prognoze evropskih kladionica, ne daju nas zbuniti – mi i dalje vjerujemo da je Evropa baš tamo gdje je vidi Rambo, tj. da smo svi baš onamo gdje nas je ova pjesma postavila, sa svim svojim „izmima”- ponekad nemoćni pred puritanizmom… snobizmom... nacio- nalizmom, a tako željni pacifizma, liberalizma, biciklizma… o Vi de PR nts Eve si nc 130 e 2 0 00 Montenegro Advertising and Production !(23&'++3+,%#,-#)($.4(-+##(3)!)+#)(-enegro -& 3 1 3!,'3000'*)'3'*-)'' SUPPORTED BY Tržni centar Palazzo Slovenska obala 4, Budva Doo. Inter-kin, Cetinje EUROSONG 2012 WITH AN IQ TEST TOWARDS 2&0%/ ' &' &14' %7(=') '*('4&' *(+ hen Rambo Amadeus, World Kilo Emperor, agreed to represent us at Eurovision, we knew beforehand that we will receive only an original from him! However, of what kind and on what topic, we have not sensed that! W creativity and an artist of incomparable imagination. Part of the audience was, however, disappointed – this includes those who have not understood Rambo’s style and opus before, and who would rather listen to love songs and similar laments. Rambo has worked on a song for almost two months, and the audience waited. With anticipation. Some waited with jitters because people have different ideas about what a Euro-song actually is and what it should be like. Especially since Rambo briefly commented that he accepted this job in order to “remain consistent with his own controversy.” Well, precisely this controversy was worrying our, already accustomed to everything, listening regiment. Whether they understood him or not, whether they agree with him or consider him the wrong choice for Eurovision, Rambo’s song Euro neuro has shown to us all that Europe can be contemplated in a myriad of ways, as well as that countless roads lead straight to Europe. The fastest ones are those which are direct, however... When the song was finished, even the most loyal fans and admirers of Rambo’s work and image re-discovered why they love him: this is a man of immeasurable It was necessary for the song to have a video clip, as required by Eurovision propositions. RTCG (Radio Television of Montenegro) entrusted the production of the video to MAPA agency from Podgorica. Creative Director of this project was Radmila Vojvodić, and the Director was Miha Knifić. Numerous crew members participated in the shooting of the video, and there were occasionally up to eighty people on the set, with all the extras. The basic ideas were that the video has to promote the natural and tourist values of Montenegro (the video was filmed in February, under unfavorable weather conditions, and at the attractive locations on the Montenegro coast), but it also must express basic intention: it must not, like the song itself, resemble in any way the usual Eurovision sensibility! Thus was created the “story” of the local man who is strongly committed to ‘meeting the European needs”, understanding in his own way its mores and values, and reworking them the way he can with his own ten fingers and a donkey! The donkey found its way into the video clip, because Rambo says that:”A donkey symbolizes sustainable development – works a lot and spends little; he is modest, reliable.” Photo: Duško Miljanić, Dalibor Ševaljević 134 135 Novi BMW Serije 3 sm ... nationalism, and so desirous of pacifism, liberalism, cyclism ... www.bmw-voli.me We, therefore, hope that Rambo will be understood throughout the playful Europe, because the comments on the video and the song are more that encouraging. One of the more interesting comments is the one from the London’s “Independent” where Rambo was named the most intriguing performer at this year’s Eurovision Song Contest, and the British journalist even, with apologies to the British representative, promises him a vote! The finest comment, fitting perfectly into this whole story, is that Euro neuro is actually not a song but an “IQ test!” It is interesting that the donkey is actually a female donkey– Anči that caused no problems during the shooting. She managed excellently, not solely on the streets of Kotor and the Ulcinj beach – she lived up to her job even in the Hotel Splendid! She was not fazed by the pool, the beautiful women around her, not even by the massage therapists! Her role gains in importance at the end of the video when she eats all the money from the pockets of her already weary master Rambo... Our Kilo Emperor will be the first performer at the first semi-final evening. Not quite great European bookmaker’s forecasts do not confuse us – we still believe that Europe is exactly where Rambo sees it i.e. that we are all precisely where this song placed us, with all our ‘isms” – sometimes powerless before the Puritanism ... snobbi- The truth is that we and the Europe as well, lack new aesthetics and new poetry. Although he is going to Eurosong ‘for the sake of the controversy”, Rambo will open the door to a new, different and certainly non-hypocritical poetics, just by not courting the habits and the expectations of the old musical lady. Because, after all, he is the World Kilo Emperor! ELEGANCIJA ILI SNAGA. !"#"$%&'()' %* *"+' www.bmw-voli.me NOVI BMW SERIJE 3. 328i VOLI Motors, Podgorica, Bulevar Josipa Broza bb 020 445 065, 020 445 066 136 6.4 l/ 100 km 180 kW (245 KS) Zadovoljstvo NEOBIČNA NEKA DJECA FILIP ĆABAK, KANTAUTOR (!'$'#"00 VELIKOM BICIKLU Razgovarala: Jelena Suvara Foto: Dalibor Ševaljević %&)) K N(':+ '9:)A =&B&A9 :(&'&'B =K &(&' & &'AO 'B)( + &'9- F ilip je svoj muzički život počeo u podgoričkom dječijem horu „Zvjezdice”, zajedno sa mlađim bratom Vladimirom. Zahvaljujući talentu, brzo su postali solisti i počeli nastupati na brojnim dječijim festivalima. Tako su muzika i pjesma na velika vrata ušle u njegov djetinji svijet i postale značajan dio života. Kada si poželio da napišeš prvu pjesmu? FILIP: Prošle godine sam krenuo na časove song writinga jer kad sam prerastao dječije festivale, želio sam pisati sam, ali nijesam znao kako?! U meni su se preplitala razna interesovanja, ali posvetio sam se komponovanju. A uz sopstvene kompozicije najbolje idu sopstveni stihovi. Filip tekstove piše najčešće na engleskom, a želi naučiti dovoljno dobro i romanske jezike (španski i francuski) jer su zbog milozvučnosti bliži muzici. Komponuje pop, 140 FILIP: Za mene je to, sigurno, sloboda. Sloboda da odaberem motiv koji me pokreće (ljubav, život, prijateljstvo…) i sloboda da ga obradim onako kako ga ja vidim i osjećam. Tu je uzbuđenje, a ohrabrenje se desi kada se vaša pjesma dopadne i drugima. Recimo, prošle školske godine na ispitu moja pjesma „Radiance”, u izvođenju Jovane Jokić, bila je među tri najbolje kompozicije. I sada mi je teško opisati kakvo je to osjećanje da sam stvorio nešto što drugi ljudi, ozbiljni i upućeni, prepoznaju kao vrijedno i kvalitetno. Ne radi se tu o ocjeni, niti o uspjehu, već o produženom osjećanju sreće koju ste sami sebi iskreirali. A koji je kompozitor, od klasičara, tvoj izbor? FILIP: Ipak, Šopen. Zbog njega, iako slušam i pop i r’n’b, rok i haus, u mojim kompozicijama često postoji i jedna romantičarska, nježna nit, koja mi treba kao spoj sa svim onim što meni muzika znači. Koje kompozicije su, trenutno, tvoj ponos? r’n’b, a odnedavno pravi i aranžmane. Mnogi tvoji vršnjaci, ali i oni stariji, imaju problem sa tremom. Kako si ti to prevazišao? Pitali smo Filipa i gdje tako mlad momak otkriva inspiraciju, koji su motivi njegovih pjesama i kakve ga to nevolje more da se mora izraziti kroz stihove i taktove? FILIP: Imao sam devet godina, a moj brat osam, kada smo u duetu pjevali na festivalu ,,Zlatna pahulja” u Rožajama. Otpjevali smo pobjedničku pjesmu (prve nagrade u sve tri kategorije), što je izuzetno iskustvo i tako smo se zarazili festivalskim virusom. Kasnije, na dječijoj Evroviziji u Beogradu pjevali smo „Neznalicu”, osvojili sedmo mjesto, a po glasovima publike prvo! Mislim da je trema neminovnost, jer nije lako ni govoriti a kamoli pjevati pred brojnom publikom, Ali kad krene pjesma, trema prođe i jedino sam svjestan onog dobrog osjećaja koji me drži sve vrijeme dok sam na sceni. Doduše, sada imam i sve manje razloga za tremu – zato što više sviram, a manje pjevam. FILIP: Ne mora sve biti iz nevolje; često me dirnu i zaintrigiraju i vrlo lijepe stvari, neke male ljudske priče, pojedini problemi meni bliskih ljudi, mojih drugova, drugarica. Neka tuđa pjesma mi da motiv za moju, neki dobar film mi otvori čitav niz pitanja na koja želim odgovoriti, notama ili stihom, ali i sasvim obični razgovori i svakodnevne situacije mogu postati moja inspiracija. Nekad me ideja i iznenadi: legnem, mrtav umoran, hoću da se naspavam, ali mi sine neka ideja i, što ću, ustanem da je zapišem, da mi „ne pobjegne”. Velika inspiracija ili uzori su mi grupa Coldplay i mlada kantautorka Emeli Sande, kojoj se zaista divim. Šta je posebno uzbuđujuće u činu stvaranja pjesme? FILIP: Prošle godine sam napisao tekst i kompoziciju za pjesmu „Mali memoari”, koju je interpretirala Maša Vujadinović na festivalu „Naša radost” i, priznajem, ponosan sam na to. Objavljena je još jedna moja kompozicija – „Božićna čestitka” (stihovi Sanje Perić), koju je za Novu godinu izveo hor „Zvjezdice”. Ta kompozicija je bila moj poklon horu u kojem sam i sam propjevao. Međutim, nije lako sa šesnaest stići sve ovo. Filipov dan liči na radni dan udarnika: školski časovi do podneva, zatim časovi klavira, kompozicije, probe u dva hora i sviranje u bendu. Kratki predah – vikend, vrijeme je za skitnju, druženja i izlaske. Jedno bez drugoga ne ide. Filipovo društvo ga snažno podržava, posebno oni koji uče u istoj školi i sa kojima se najbolje i muzički razumije. Sa njima razmjenjuje ideje, upoređuje stavove, sarađuje. Pored toga, Filip uči svirati gitaru, ali mu se mnogo sviđaju i bubnjevi. No, kako to biva sa talentovanom djecom, Filip ima još jednu veliku ljubav: fotografiju! Otkud to? FILIP: Bio sam još u vrtiću kada sam u grupi za darovitu djecu učio slikati i crtati. Vjerovali ili ne, imao sam šest godina ka- ---M' &'>'- ''& ''''9 &: :--da sam za svoje crteže dobio dvije prave pravcate diplome! Ah, kakva je to radost bila! Jedna je stigla iz Skoplja, a druga čak iz Moskve! I kasnije sam nešto crtao, bojao. Mislim da je ta ljubav prema slici ostala zauvijek u meni i otuda interes za fotografiju. Ja se nadam da su te fotografije dobre, Društvo me uglavnom bodri i hvali moje fotografije. Ovaj suptilni mladi čovjek, toliko različit od dječaka kojima savjesne majke plaše svoje tinejdžere, ipak vjeruje da o njemu više govori jedna kompozicija ili čak jedna fotografija nego cio ovaj razgovor. Ali, šta da radimo kad novine ne umiju pjevati? Zato objavljujemo nekoliko Filipovih fotografija, pa prosudite sami kakav je naš momak! Zasada Filip mašta i vrijedno radi. Mora, jer želi studirati komponovanje u Londonu. I želi, jednom, u istom gradu osnovati produkcijsku kuću! A znamo da od snova nema jačih pokretača. FILIP: Ne mogu znati šta će jednom biti, samo znam šta želim. Pokušavam da učim od drugih i pametnijih. Dopalo mi se par mudrosti koje, po meni, otkrivaju najbolji način da ostvariš snove, da pobijediš sebe i da se spasiš od neočekivanih obrta. Prva je: „Život je kao biciklo – da bi se balansirao, moraš nastaviti da se krećeš”, a druga (ona utješna, rekli bi mi stariji i ciničniji): „Trenutak kada prestaneš da griješiš jeste trenutak kada prestaneš da učiš!”. Eto, tuda se ja negdje tražim i provlačim, čekajući da odrastem i ozbiljno osvojim slobodu… E pa, dragi Filipe, srećno! Nek točkovi tvog slobodnog bicikla stignu daleko, daleko! 141 UNUSUAL CHILDREN FILIP ĆABAK, SINGER AND SONGWRITER BOYISH DREAMS OF A BIG BICYCLE Interview by: Jelena Suvara, Photo: Dalibor Ševaljević F ilip began his musical life in Podgorica’s children choir “Zvjezdice”, together with his younger brother Vladimir. Thanks to their talent they soon became soloists and began performing at numerous children’s festivals. Thus, music and song entered through the front door in his childlike world and became an important part of his life. FILIP: Last year I took songwritting classes, bacause when I outgrew children’s festivals, I wanted to write myself, but did not know how?! Various interests have intertwined in me, but I have dedicated myself to composing. And my own verses go best with my own compositions. FILIP: For me, that is the freedom. Freedom to choose a motive that moves me (love, life, friendship...) and the freedom to process it the way I view it and feel. That is the excitement, and encouragement happens when your song is liked by others as well. For example, during the previous school year, at the exam, my song “Radiance”, performed by Jovana Jokić, was among the top three hits. I now find it hard to describe the feeling that I created something that other people, serious informed people recognized as valuable and of good quality. It is not about judgment or success, but an extended feeling of happiness that you yourself created. FILIP: Chopin. Because of him, even though I listen to pop r’n’b, rock and house, there is often a romantic, delicate thread in my compositions, which I need as a fusion with everything that music means to me. Which compositions, are currently, your pride? Filip mostly writes his lyrics in English, but he wants to learn Romance languages well (Spanish and French), because they are closer to music due to their mellifluence. He composes pop, r’n’b and arranges since recently. Many of your peers, as well as those who are older, have a problem with stagefright. How did you overcome it? 144 What is particularly exhilarating in the act of creating a song? And what is your choice of classic composer? When did you wish to write a first song? FILIP: I was nine, and my brother eight years old, when we sang in duet at a festival ”Zlatna pahulja“ in Rožaje. We sang the winning song (first prizes in all three categories), which is a remarkable experience and that is how we got infected with a festival virus. Afterwards, at children’s Eurovision in Belgrade, we sang “Neznalica”, won seventh place and first place by votes of the audience! I think that stage fright is inevitable, it is not easy to speak, much less sing front of a large audience. But when the song starts, stage fright goes away and the band Coldplay and young singer Emeli Sandé, who I really admire. I am only aware of that good feeling that has a hold of me the whole time I am on stage. Admittedly, I now have fewer reasons for stage fright - because I play more and sing less. We asked Filip where such a young man finds his inspiration, what are the motives of his songs and what troubles him that he has to express himself trough lyrics and beats? FILIP: Not everything has to be out of trouble; I am often moved and intrigued by very beautiful things, some small human stories, some of the problems of people close to me, my male and female friends. Someone else’s song motivates me for my own, a good movie opens up a series of questions I wish to answer, with notes or by verse, but also quite ordinary conversations and everyday situations can become my inspiration. Sometime the idea catches me by surprise: I lay down, very tired, I want to get some sleep and suddenly an idea comes to my mind and what can I do, I get up to write it down so it does not “escape”. Great inspiration or role models are FILIP: Last year I wrote the lyrics and composition for the song “Mali memoari”, which was interpreted by Maša Vujadinović at the festival “Naša Radost” and I admit I’m proud of it. Another one of my compositions was published “Božićna čestitka” (lyrics by Sanja Perić), which the choir “Zvjezdice” performed for New Year’s. This composition was my gift to the choir in which I started singing. However, it is not easy to achieve all this at sixteen. Filip’s day looks like the work day of a shock worker: classes until noon, then piano lessons, compositions and rehersals in two choirs and playing in a band. Short breather – weekend, is a time for walks, socializing and going out. One can not work without the other. Filip’s friends strongly support him, especially his school friends with whom he is in perfect understanding musically. He exchanges idea with them, 3K P('J %'D=&BB D%&K (? BO 'D &&&'compares views, cooperates. In addition, Filip is learning to play the guitar, but he also like drums. But, as it usually happens with gifted children, Filip has another great love: photography! How come ? FILIP: I was in still in the kindergarten when I was, in a group for gifted children, learning to paint and draw. Believe it or not, I was six years old when I received two real diplomas for my drawings! What a joy that was! One came from Skopje, and the other all the way from Moscow! Later I drew a little, colored. I believe that love of painting remained in me forever and hence the interest for photography. I hope those photographs are good, otherwise my friends are lying to me when they are encouraging and praising my footage, hahaha... This subtle, young man, so different from boys that conscientious mothers scare their teenagers with, however, believes one composition or a photograph speaks more about him than this whole conversation. But what do we do when the newspaper does not know how to sing? We will publish a few of Filip’s photographs, so you can judge what kind of a person is our young man! Filip currently works diligently and fantasizes. He has to, because he wants to study composing in London. He wishes to establish a production company in the same city! And we know that there is no stronger driving force that dreams. FILIP: I do not know what is going to happen, I only know what I desire. I am trying to learn from others, more intelligent ones. I liked a couple of wise thoughts, which, in my opinion, reveal the best way to achieve your dreams, to conquer yourself and to rescue yourself from unexpected twists. The first one is: ““Life is like a bicycle - in order to balance, you must keep moving,” and the other (the comforting thought, as the more older and cynical ones would call it): “The moment you stop making mistakes is the moment when you stop learning!” Well, this is where I am trying to find myself and crawling through, waiting to grow up and seriously conquer freedom... Well, dear Filip, good luck! May the wheels of your free bicycle take you far, far away. 145 Ministarstvo finansija Crne Gore Poreska uprava Crne Gore kosturi nekadašnjih puzavica, iscrnjeli kao nakon požara. PRIČAM TI PRIČU PROLJEĆNI CVJETOVI Nada Bukilić J oš su planinski vrhovi bijeli i to će tako ostati dugo. Odavde, čini se da su vrhovi blizu. Čudno je sjesti pred kuću, onako u košulji i papučama, a oko vas topao dan iz koga vam, s vremena na vrijeme, sunce namiguje odsjajem sa nedalekih, zaleđenih planina. Stara kuća u predgrađu, koju smo kupili zajedno sa dugačkim, zapuštenim dvorištem iza nje i bašticom naprijed, nije bila ni veća ni ljepša od ostalih koje su se prodavale, ali se nama ona učinila posebnom. Možda zbog krova, koji je, u cijeloj toj zapuštenosti, blistao nov i crven, sa staklenim svjetlarnicima na sve četiri strane. Moj muž je, prvog dana kada smo postali vlasnici kuće i zapuštene okolice, otvorivši kapiju i još ne ušavši u dvorište, vrlo ozbiljno i vrlo značajno, rekao: „Dobar dan, kućo!”. Ja sam se nasmijala, poželjela i sama dobar dan toj žućkastoj starici i čak joj se, pred pospanim zatvorenim škurama, s poštovanjem naklonila. Pri tom su mi poispadale kutijice, čaše i teglice iz visoke papirne kese i, začudo, nijedna se nije razbila! Dobar znak! Oboje veseli, kao pijani, svečarski smo otključav a l i vrata naše kuće i, konačno, zakoračili u naš mali raj: veliko ogledalo na desnom zidu i drveni starinski čiviluk u lijevom uglu, uz vrata, sav su namještaj koji smo naslijedili od bivših vlasnika; sa obje strane hodnika ređaju se vrata velikih soba, a naspram ulaznih još jedna široka vrata sa ustakljenom gornjom polovinom; kroz ta se vrata izlazi na prostranu terasu sa koje se da vidjeti cijelo dvorište; zima je prošla i sada se u dvorištu vide mreže korova, divljeg nara, kopriva i one čudne biljke koju domaćice nazivaju zeljem; sve to raste u našem novostečenom dvorištu, u čudnoj simbiozi, raspoređeno kao po nekom dogovoru; ne smetajući jedno drugom, vižlja se i uznosi ka raspamećenom proljećnom suncu; stepenasta forma tog rasporeda gdje jedna nad drugom rastu različite biljke, pojačava utisak da tu ima još skrivenih biljnih vrsta, ali i neka kornjača sa svojom djecom, a, možda, i zmija; sa obje strane kuće, uz žičanu ogradu, prepoznaju se krti i truli To je taj raj! Od prvog dana pa sve, evo, do juče, mi smo svakodnevno krečili, farbali, doziđivali, pregrađivali, zakucavali, lakirali, bušili, krpili, lemili…, uživajući u svemu. Mnogo smo ponosni što nas sve to nije koštalo ni približno onome kako su naši prijatelji procjenjivali vrijednost rezultata: – Vidi samo ova divna vrata? – Kakva vrata? Plakar je predivan! Ko zna pošto je ovo čudo!? – Ah, imate divnu, divnu biblioteku! Basnoslovno, a? – Mora da su vam zabiberili dobro kad ste kupili ovu čarobnu trpezariju… – Ljepši, veći i udobniji krevet nikad nisam vidio! – Terasa vam vrijedi moga stana! I tako redom. Danas ćemo pretresti tavan. Pripremila sam sve što je potrebno za jedno dobro ribanje. Uh, al’ će da rade metle! Blješti sunce, udara u velike prozore kuće preko puta. Sjedim, čekam muža. Ljenčarim takoreći, a metla mi u ruci. Tada me nešto uznemiri. Ni zvuk, ni sjena, nego nešto što liči na njihov sastanak – nešto što vidiš i čuješ stomakom. Ustadoh, gledah na sve strane – ne vidjeh ništa! Samo divlji nar, iždžikljao do visine prozora, udara granom o otvorena škura, kad god ih povjetarac navede na njih. To je sve što se dešava u dvorištu. Začuh nešto drugo: neko korača… čini mi se i da otvara vrata naše spavaće sobe – poznajem njihov drveni uzdah… Danas i ovdje može doći samo moj muž, ali ovo nije on. Šta sad? Biti hrabra žena i ući? Zvoniti? Viknuti? Ući sa obje metle pravo u sobu? A da prvo odem do komšija i zamolim za pomoć? Svašta! Ovo je moja kuća, svaki pedalj joj poznajem kao sopstveno lice! Šta i da je došao neko stran i nepoznat? Neka je – već ćemo se upoznati. Ko god da je, objasniće mi šta radi u mojoj kući! Ohrabrena, krenuh u kuću. Hodnik je bio sasvim miran, prazan. Iz kuhinje je još mirisalo na kafu. Vrata su sva redom zatvorena, pa i ona od naše spavaće sobe. Ali, eto ga! Opet nešto… Čujem – nešto puca kao kad se slama suva grančica pod nogom. Opet?! Sad već nešto lupa! Udara! Opet pucketa! Evo, mislim: to neko širokih, velikih stopala, tromo gazi po… po… Shvatih: po našem tavanu!?! Naoružana metlom, zakoračih drvenim stepeništem ka tavanu. Škripe stepenice, podrhtavaju mi koljena, ali ne odustajem: imam oružje, penjem se i kroz mala, drvena vrata, prvo guram metlu. Vrata se širom otvoriše, kao da su jedva dočekala da ih nešto dodirne. Ništa se ne dešava. Potpuni mir. Kratko se, iz daljine, začu komšijin glas. Koraknuh. Opet ništa. Usudih se i uđoh pod krov. Pod krovom puno svjetlosti, toplote i začujuće prijatnog mirisa. Vrisnuh, jer nešto sa desne strane pade. Od straha ne mogu da dogledam šta se dešava i ko je to na tavanu. Gledam, ali ne vidim. Zatim zacvrča i sa druge strane, pa još nešto zapucketa tamo, niže, pod svjetlarnikom, i ja sve to propratih paničnim vrištanjem. *** Još sam vrištala kad su me zagrlile sigurne ruke mog muža. I vrištala sam kad sam konačno shvatila šta vidim pred sobom: stari vlasnici su nam ostavili čudesnu baštu pod krovom! Samo, sad sam vrištala od ushićenja: visoke biljke, dugih, zelenih listova i sa bogatim cvatom, snažno su se granale ka svjetlarnicima. Pucale su zelene čahure iz kojih su se potom otvarale, široke kao dlanovi, jarko crvene latice. Kao da gledate ubrzani dokumentarni film o cvijeću. Komadi čahura su padali na sve strane, a grane biljaka su udarale u crijep koji im se svojom težinom vraćao natrag – to je lupalo naizmjenično. Grana hoće van, pomjera crijep; on se malo pridigne, a kad grana ne sluti, opet padne i pokunji je natrag. Da nije tako mirno u našem predgrađu, ovo ne bih ni čula. Ushićenje još traje. Toliko smo oduševljeni da ćemo pozvati goste na večeru – da proslavimo! „Kako su mogli da zaborave ovo čudesno cvijeće”, zabrinut je moj dobri muž. Pregledali smo po internetu, ali nismo našli ništa što liči na našu tavansku baštu. Ja ću sad do prodavnice, po vino i sir. I neću više da razmišljam zašto smo dobili cvijeće: ostavili su ga tavanu i crvenom krovu, koji su zbog njega podigli. Toliko su ga voljeli da su ga se radije odrekli nego odnijeli negdje gdje neće imati neophodne uslove za rast i cvat. Zahvaliću im – moraju znati da ćemo ga i mi mnogo voljeti! Proljeće, ah, proljeće! Kako divno miriše i cvjeta sve oko nas, čak i na tavanu, iako su blizu, sasvim blizu, zaleđeni vrhovi planina… LET ME TELL YOU A STORY SPRINGTIME FLOWERS T Nada Bukilić he mountain peaks are still white and it will remain so for a long time. It seems, from here, that the peaks are near. It is strange to sit in front of the house, in a shirt and slippers, with a warm day around you, out of which the sun winks at you from time to time with a glare from the near, icy mountains. Old house in the suburbs, which we bought together with a long, overgrown yard and a rather small garden in front, was not bigger of more beautiful than the others that were on sale, but we found it special. Maybe because of the roof, which in this whole neglect, shone new and red with glass skylights on all four sides. On our first day as owners of the house and dilapidated surroundings, while opening the gate and not yet entering into the backyard, my husband very seriously and significantly said: Good day house!” I smiles, bid a good day to that yellowish old lady and even bowed respectfully in front of the drowsy closed shutters. Thereby my boxes, glasses and jars from a tall paper bag all fell out, and surprisingly, nothing broke! A good sign! Both joyful, punch-drunk, we festively unlocked the door of our house, and finally stepped into our little paradise: large mirror on the right wall and wooden, old coat hanger in the left corner, next to the door, is all the furniture that we have inherited from the former owners, on both sides of the corridor are doors of large rooms in a row one after another, and opposite the entrance is another wide door with glazed upper half; that door leads to a spacious terrace with a view of the whole garden; the winter passed and now you can see networks of weeds in the yard, wild pomegranates, nettle and those strange plants which housewives call green vegetables; all of that grows in our newly acquired backyard in strange symbiosis as assigned by an agreement; not disturbing each other, it ascends and exalts towards the wild spring Sun; stepwise form of that arrangement, where one upon the other grow different plants, reinforces the impression that there are more hidden plant species and some turtles with their children, and, perhaps a snake; on both sides of the house, next to the wire fence, one can recognize brittle and rotting skeletons of former climbers, blackened as if they were on fire. This is that heaven! From the first day until yesterday, we plastered and painted every day, re-built, reconstructed, hammered, applied polish, drilled, mended, did soldering...enjoying everything. We are very proud that it did not cost us nearly as our friends estimated would be the value of the result: Just look at this wonderful door? What door? The closet is beautiful! Who knows how much this miracle is worth? Ah, you have a lovely, lovely library! Fabulous, ha? They must have spiced it up well when you bought this magical dining room I have never seen a more beautiful, bigger, more comfortable bed! You terrace is worth my apartment! And so on. Today we will ransack the attic. I have prepared the essentials for a good scrub. Uh, the booms will be working! The Sun is glowing, hitting the large windows of the house across the street. I am sitting ,waiting for my husband. Being idle, so to speak, with a broom in my hand. Then something disturbed me. Neither sound nor shade, but something that resembles both of them together – something you see and hear with your stomach. I stood up, took a look around me – not seeing anything! Only the wild pomegranate, that rose up to the window, hitting its branch on the open shutters, whenever the breeze lead them that way. This is all that is happening in the backyard. I heard something else: someone’s footsteps....it seemed that the door of our bedroom were opening - I know their wooden sigh... Today and here only my husband can arrive, but this is not him. What now? To be a brave woman and enter? Ring? Yell? Enter with both brooms straight into the bedroom? Maybe I should go to the neighbors and ask for help? ked screaming. ...jer Vaš Dom je Vaša sigurnost i sloboda. *** ...because your home is your security and freedom. Unbelievable! This is my house, I know every inch of it like my own face! So what if someone strange and unknown came? Let him be – we will get to know each other. Whoever it is, he will explain what he is doing in my house! I was still screaming when my husband’s safe arms hugged me. I was screaming when I finally realized what I see before me: previous owners left us a marvelous garden under the roof! Only now I was screaming in exultation: tall plants with long, green leaves and rich blossom branched heavily toward the skylights. Green cocoons were cracking, from which bright red petals as a broad as palms opened. As though you are watching an accelerated documentary about flowers. Pieces of cocoons were falling all around, and branches were hitting the roof tile, which was pressing back with its weight – that is what caused the alternating pounding. The branch wants out, it moves the tile; it rises a little, and when the branch least expects it, falls down and bends it back. If it wasn’t so quiet in our suburb, I would not have heard this. Encouraged, I moved into the house. The corridor was very quiet, empty. The kitchen still smelled like coffee. The doors were all closed , even those from our bedroom. But, there it is! Again...I hear something – something is crackling like a dry twig breaking under the feet. Again!? Something is pounding now! Hitting! Crackling again! Here, I think: it is someone slowly treading with wide, large feet on...on...I realized: in our attic?! Armed with a broom, I stepped onto the wooden staircase towards the attic. The stairs are squeaking, my knees are shivering, but I am not giving up: I have a weapon, climbing and through the small, wooden door I’m pushing the broom first. The door opened widely, as if they were looking forward to being touched. Excitement is still ongoing. We are so thrilled that we will invite guests to dinner - to celebrate! Nothing is happening. Complete serenity. The neighbor’s voice was heard briefly from afar. I stepped in. Again nothing. I am going to the store now, to get wine and cheese. I and will no longer contemplate why we got the flowers: it was left to the attic and the red roof, that they built for it. They loved it so much that they preferred to renounce it than take it away where it would not have the necessary conditions for growth and bloom. I will thank them – they must know that we will love it a lot as well! I dared and entered under the roof. There was a lot of light under it, warmth and surprisingly pleasant scent. I screamed because something on my right fell down. Fear prevents me from seeing what is going on and who is in the attic. I am watching, but cannot see anything. I could hear chirping from the other side, then something cracked over there, beneath the skylight, and I followed it with panic- ...потому что Ваш дом - это Ваша безопастность и свобода. Osiguranje nove generacije. The Insurance of a new generation. Страхование нового поколения. “How could they forget these wonderful flowers,” my good husband was concerned. We searched through the internet, but could not find anything that looks like our attic garden. Spring, ah, spring! What a wonderful scent and bloom all around us, in the attic as well, even though the frozen mountain peaks are close, quite close... orodicdoamaæinstva Dom a,&kuP æa i èlanova anov Osiguranje st ily members Homertm&entsFaanm d household pa /a es us ho of e nc ra Insu ов семьи Дом & Семья и чл ы, имущества дома/квартир Страхование ен CRNOGORSKA KUŽINA Nahranivši prosjaka, zadovoljna ode ka planini. Odmakla je dobar dio puta, a za sobom je još čula blagosiljanje: „Hvala ti, nevjesta, vazda imala! Hvala ti! Lijepog li doručka, bože mili! Hvala ti, nevjesta…” Prođe i cijela godina. Žena se više nije ni sjećala ovog događaja – malo li prosjaka mine njihovim selom… Jednog dana, isti čovjek joj zakuca na vrata: – Dobar dan, nevjesta, reče. – Dobra ti sreća, dobri čovječe, odgovori žena. Koga tražiš? – Tebe! Došao sam zbog onog doručka koji si mi prošle godine napravila. Nikad se ljepše i ukusnije ne najedoh! Lutam svijetom, ali onakav doručak nikad više ne probah. Htio sam te moliti da mi ga opet napraviš… Žena se nasmija, pa se odmah lati posla. U široku šerpu usu malo vode i tri puta toliko varenike (ukupno da bude do litar tako razrijeđene varenike). Zatim dobar komad sira (oko 200–300 g, najbolje i mladi i stari sir) izmrvi unutra. Dok se sir topio, žena je usitnila i dodala u šerpu više od pola kilograma juče ili prekjuče pečenog hljeba Pripremila: Nada Bukilić Fotografija: Slaven Vilus POPARA, %&0"!$'#(0&2'$# H'&(6 ':)(') & J(''''&)'' S vako jelo ima svoju priču; neka su jela nastajala zahvaljujući volji i mašti svojih tvoraca, a neka, bogami, zahvaljujući nevolji i istoj toj, dobroj, staroj mašti. Evo jedne takve storije od kužine. Priča o prosjačkom doručku U zenitu ljeta seljaci su nekada kosili široke livade po cio dan. Žene su im spremale jela od ranog jutra i, obično u podne, stizale 158 do kosaca po planini. A za kosioce treba mnogo dobre i kvalitetne hrane, koja uz to, mora biti ukusna i kada se ohladi. Jedna domaćica tako krenu ka kosiocima, namaknuvši na leđa veliku torbu hrane. Samo što izađe pred kuću, srete prosjaka. Nazva mu dobar dan, a prosjak otpozdravi pružajući mršavu ruku. No, viđe da žena žuri, pa odmah spusti ruku i krenu dalje. Neki plemeniti sjaj u očima došljaka ožalosti ženu i ona se vrati kući. Zovnu prosjaka na do- ručak. Čovjek, unaprijed zahvalan, sjede na kameni prag kuće i čekaše. Znajući da je sve što vrijedi spakovala za kosce, žena stade da pretura po kredencima i posuđu, tamo i ovamo, i nađe poveći komad sasušenog hljeba i nešto sira na tanjiru. Učini joj se ružnim da tako nahrani čovjeka. Zato mu od toga napravi topao, ukusan doručak. (domaći obavezno!). Odozgo, kad se hljeb natopio, dodade još dvije dobre kašike mladog kajmaka. Hljeb je upijao tečnost, ona je lagano miješala, a kad se sve lijepo spojilo – jelo je bilo gotovo! Žena uze duboki tanjir, usu jelo u njega i pozva gosta za sto. Dodade i šolju tople varenike! Čovjek je jeo toliko slatko i zaneseno, da mu se i sama domaćica pridruži. – Mmmm, divno… mmmm, prelijepo, uživao je prosjak. – Bogami, jeste, čudila se žena i divila samoj sebi. – A kako se zove ovo jelo? – Ah, to? To je… Pa… To je popara, izmisli ime domaćica. Eto, tako je to bilo, davnog ljeta na jednoj planini. Da ne bi prosjaka, ne bismo znali kako da iskoristimo ostatke hljeba, sira, kajmaka… Ovaj siromaški – prosjački doručak, u stvari, uopšte nije siromašan, naprotiv! Vrlo je kaloričan i veoma ukusan, posebno ako se napravi sa kvalitetnim sirom i „dopuni” kajmakom. A sad šalu i priče na stranu: ovakav doručak su nekada majke redovno pripremale svojoj djeci, posebno onoj koja su rano ustajala i dugo pješačila do škole. Djeca su jela poparu sa apetitom, jer je zbilja ukusna, a, istovremeno, veoma hranljiva, što je omogućavalo da djeca dugo ostanu sita. Danas popara nije više ono što je bila zbog prostog razloga – sada rijetko ko peče domaći hljeb! A praviti poparu sa hljebom koji kupujemo – uh, to nije ni za prosjaka! Popara danas nema ništa sa prosjacima – eno je, miriše na davna djetinjstva, na bakinu kužinu, i vrela se puši u dubokim, drvenim činijama u svakom nacionalnom restoranu koji makar malo drži do istinske tradicije. Kad vas umore skitanja i prehranjivanja po restoranima koji imitiraju bjelosvjetske trendove, kad se uželite bakinog krila, kad vas stane daviti nostalgija, kad vas sjećanja pritisnu još od ranog jutra – jedite poparu! Moćni antidepresiv iz naše kužine. Prijatno! MONTENEGRIN CUISINE POPARA, BEGGARLY BREAKFAST 4& '('' '1 (' ''K (' '& ' ( E stirred it gently, and when everything merged nicely - the meal was over! The woman took a deep plate, poured the meal into it and invited the guest to the table. She added a cup of warm milk! - Mmmm, wonderful...mmmm, wonderful, the beggar enjoyed. - By God, yes it is, marveled the woman admiring herself. - And what is this meal called? - Ah, that? That is....well...That is popara, the housewife invented the name. Prepared by: Nada Bukilić, Photography: Slaven Vilus very meal has its own story; some meals have been created thanks to the will and imagination of its creators, and some, indeed, thanks to distress and the same, good, old imagination. Here is one of such cuisine stories: Having fed the beggar, she left towards the mountain satisfied. She progressed a good chunk of way, and could still hear the blessings: “Thank you, bride, may you always have everything! Thank you! What a nice breakfast, dear God! Thank you, bride ... “ Story of a beggarly breakfast At the peak of summer, the farmers used to mow broad meadows all day long. The women were preparing their meals from early morning and usually at noon, arrived to the harvestmen in the mountains. Mowers need a lot of fine and good quality food, which in addition, must be delicious even when it gets cold. One housewife went towards the mowers putting a large bag of food on her back. Just as she left the house, she met a beggar. She bid him good day and the beggar greeted back putting forth his skinny hand. However, he saw that a woman was in a hurry, so he immediately put his hand down and moved on. Some noble luster in the eyes of the stranger grieved the woman and she returned home. She called the beggar to breakfast. A man, thankful in advance, sat on the stone threshold of the house and waited. Knowing that she packed everything worthy for the mowers, women began to dig through the cupboards and dishes, here and there, and found a sizable piece of dried bread and some cheese on a plate. It seemed unsightly to feed the man in such a manner. So she made him a warm, delicious breakfast out of that. 160 A whole year has passed. The woman no longer remembered this event – quite a few beggars passes through their village... One day, the same man knocked on her door: - Good day, bride, he said. - Good fortune, good man, the woman replied. Who are you looking for? - You! I came for the breakfast that you made me last year. I never ate a more beautiful and tasty meal! I wonder around the world, but I never tried a breakfast like that anymore. So I wanted to plead you to make it again... The woman laughed, and immediately started working. In a wide pan she poured a little water and three times as much milk (a total of up to one liter of diluted milk). Then a good chunk of cheese (about 200 - 300 g, preferably both young and old cheese) crumbled inside. While the cheese melted, the woman crumbled more than half a kilo of baked bread (homemade is required!) from yesterday or the day before and added it to the pot. When the bread soaked, she added two more good full spoons of kajmak on top of it. The bread absorbed the liquid, she This is the way it was, one bygone summer on one mountain. If it was not for the beggar, we would not know how to use the remnants of bread, cheese, kajmak... This poor – beggarly breakfast, in fact, is not poor at all, on the contrary! It is very caloric and very tasteful, especially if it is made with good quality cheese and “supplemented” with kajmak. Joke on the side: mothers used to prepare a breakfast like this to their children, especially those children that got up early and had a long walk to school. The children ate popara with appetite, because it is indeed delicious, and at the same time very nutritional, which enabled the kids to stay satiated for a long time. Today, popara is not what it once was, for a simple reason – nowadays people rarely bake homemade bread! And to make popara with the bread we buy - uh, it’s not even for the beggars! Today, popara has nothing to do with beggars, there it is, b is, beears ars th t e scen centt of of dist d st s an ant nt ch child ildhoo hoo ods, ds, grandm gra ndmoth dmother’ er’ss cuis cuisine ne an a d is stea eamin ming g h iin hot n de d ep, e woode wooden nb bow owls in each na na-ttio ti io onal a re resta st ura rant nt who holds o on, at leas eastt a little lit tle,, to genu tle enuine en ine tr tradi aditio ti n. When you get Whe et ti t red wa wande nderin ring g and and eat eating at re ing in resta taaur urants ura nts th that at imitat imi mitat atee worl worl o dly d tre rends n , when nds w en you crav ravee fo for grandm ndm dmoth dm other’s wing ing,, when when yo you u get get cho choked ked ed up by nostalgia, when the memo emoriees striike do n - eat popara! Mighty anti dow nt dep eprresres sant from our our cuisine. Bon appétit! OTKRIJTE NEPOZNATU LJEPOTU SKROVITA MJESTA U CRNOJ GORI %9': 7)+ (- & )'&:'(''& Z Osmanlija, koji su vjekovima ugrađivali svoju kuturu, arhitekturu i način života u trajanje ovog kraja. Otuda na istom području – i džamije i crkve i manastiri. Okolina Plava, Gusinje, Alipašini izvori Visoke Prokletije, odnedavno u statusu nacionalnog parka, nadvisuju cijelu oblast, uzdižući se do 2530 metara, zbog čega su i ljeti prekrivene snijegom. Očaraće vas prelijepe glečerske doline, oivičene kamenitim kosinama. Idealan povod za obilazak plavsko-gusinjskog kraja jeste ekološko-turistička manifestacija Dani borovnica, kada se, za avgustovskog sunca, beru borovnice – još jedan ukras i lijek iz naše prirode. načajne i neobične lokacije u Crnoj Gori ne daju se tekstom valjano opisati i predstaviti. Možemo vas samo uputiti i nagovijestiti uzbudljivost ovih lokacija, ali pravu vrijednost i ljepotu morate otkriti i doživjeti sami. Na istočnoj strani naše države, nedaleko od Plava i Plavskog jezera, u podnožju planina, nalazi se mala varoš Gusinje. Nad Plavom i Gusinjem – planine, a na planinama još jezera: Hridsko i Visitorsko jezero. Do ovih jezera najljepše je i najuzbudljivije doći pješice (uz kvalitetne vodiče), ali je to moguće i terenskim vozilima koja sigurno stižu do samih jezera. Tu su i kraška vrela, a najljepša među njima su Alipašini izvori i Oko skakavica. Ovaj kraj poznat je i po kulama stražarnicama iz XVII i XVIII vijeka, po ukusu i mjeri 162 &3( Na poluostrvu Luštica nalaze se Rose – jedno od najstarijih naselja u Boki Kotorskoj. U istorijskim spisima, kao Resnium, pominju se još u IV vijeku. Mala luka na jugoistočnoj strani Hercegnovskog zaliva nekada je bila sigurno sklonište za jedrenjake. Ovdje su, i na kopnu i u podmorju, važna arheološka nalazišta. Veliki broj ronilaca dolazi zbog podvodnih arheoloških istra- živanja i razgledanja davno potonulih brodova. Rose su lako dostupne kopnenim, ali i morskim putem – turistički brodići iz Herceg Novog, Tivta i Budve organizovani su i redovni. Do Dobreča, takođe na Luštici, može se doći samo vodenim putem. To je skrivena uvala na samom ulazu u Boku Kotorsku. Mikroklima mirne uvale i bogatstvo tipične mediteranske vegetacije daju posebnu draž ovom izolovanom kutku. Plaža na Dobreču ekološkim kvalitetom zaslužila je plavu zastavicu. )9;< u Ulcinju Uvala kraj Ulcinja, okružena mirisnom borovom šumom, jedinstvena je ženska plaža. Od maja pa sve do konca oktobra, ovu plažu koriste isključivo žene. Zbog sumpornih izvora, u najbližem plićaku, ovdašnja morska voda smatra se ljekovitom, a uz vrelo, južno sunce i mir, i vrlo blagotvornom. Dokazano je da uslovi ženske plaže pomažu u izlječenju ženskog steriliteta. Bigovo Na putu između Tivta i Budve, nedaleko od Kotora, a daleko od svake gužve i vreve – nalazi se uvala, duboko uvučena u kopno. Uvala, ipak, gleda na otvoreno more, što doprinosi njenoj specifičnosti. Nekada je tu bila poznata ribarska luka, a danas je privlačna poznavaocima ljekovitog bilja i ljubiteljima kamenih plaža, nedirnute prirode i ribarskih specijaliteta. Skadarsko jezero: &=3 (3#3 );= Rijeka Crnojevića je staro urbano jezgro specifične arhitekture, nastalo u XV vijeku, kada je vladar Ivan Crnojević preselio prijestonicu sa Žabljaka na brdo Obod i utemeljio utvrđeni Riječki grad. Ovdje su, kasnije, 163 svoje ljetnjikovce imali i pripadnici dinastije Petrović. Rijeka Crnojevića je imala fabriku oružja, u kojoj su očuvane i puške otete od Turaka, prvu apoteku u Crnoj Gori i, za ratničku zemlju posebno zanimljivo, manufakturu u kojoj su od riblje krljušti izrađivani biseri… Danas je prepoznatljiva po restoranima u kojima se služe jedinstveni tradicionalni specijaliteti. Dodoši su na rtu, u podnožju Bobije, naselje zbijenog tipa, u slikovitom i sezonski promjenjivom pejzažu. Ribarsko mjesto Karuč prepoznaje se po Kuli svetog Petra i potpuno autentičnoj arhitekturi. Nalazi se na krajnjem sjeveroistoku istoimenog rukavca Skadarskog jezera. Žabljak Crnojevića Usred močvarnog polja okruženog vodotocima Morače, Karatune, Šegrtnice i Sjerave, nalazi se najpoznatiji istorijski spomenik čitavog kraja – Žabljak Crnojevića. Ovdje su stolovali Crnojevići, dok mjesto nijesu zauzeli Turci. Ostalo je pod turskom vlašću sve do Berlinskog kongresa, kada je vraćeno Crnoj Gori. Žabljak Crnojevića je opasan moćnim bedemima, a dio njih je nastao još u vrijeme kada nije postojalo vatreno oružje. Žabljak Crnojevića, samo utvrđenje, danas je nenaseljeno, ali je njegovo podgrađe i dalje živo. %<>9> Za sve one koji bi željeli da provedu miran odmor do juna na Primorju ili u centralnom i planinskom dijelu Crne Gore, Nacionalna turistička organizacija Crne Gore, Montenegro Airlines i crnogorski hotelijeri, napravili su posebne paket aranžmane. Aranžmani obuhvataju hotelski polupansionski smeštaj i avio-prevoz po izuzetno atraktivnim cijenama. Tako je, na primjer, za sedmodnevni aranžman (polupansion i avio-prevoz iz Beograda i nazad) potrebno izdvojiti od 213 do 396 eura, u zavisnosti od kategorije hotela za koji se odlučite. U ponudi je i povoljan vikend aranžman u najekskluzivnijim crnogorskim hotelima, sa korišćenjem wellnessa i spa (takođe polupansion i avio-prevoz iz Beograda) po cijeni od 169 eura po osobi. Sedmodnevni aranžmani koji obuhvataju druge evropske destinacije sa kojih Montenegro Airlines ima let, kreću se od 279 eura, a spa vikend aranžmani od 235 eura sa uključenim prevozom. Više informacija na www.montenegro.travel. Specijalni MICE paket aranžmani podrazumijevaju: avionski prevoz na relaciji Beograd – Tivat (Podgorica) – Beograd, smještaj i organizaciju sastanaka, seminara, kongresa i sličnih događaja u skladu sa potrebama i zahtjevima klijenata, u hotelima visokih kategorija (4* i 5*) u Bečićima i Miločeru. Za trodnevni MICE paket aranžman, koji uključuje povratnu avionsku kartu, smještaj na bazi polupansiona, organizaciju poslovnog događaja uz korišćenje sala i svih tehničkih kapaciteta hotela, te niz popusta na wellness, spa i ostale usluge, potrebno je izdvojiti od 198 do 228 eura po osobi, u hotelima sa 4* (Queen of Montenegro u Bečićima i Maestral u Miločeru), dok se cijena istog takvog aranžmana u luksuznom hotelu sa 5* (Splendid Conference & Spa Resort) kreće od 225 do 285 eura po osobi. Aranžmani važe do 1. maja 2012. godine. Više informacija na www.montenegro.travel. RESTAURANT PROVATivat 164 DISCOVER UNKNOWN BEAUTY HIDDEN PLACES IN MONTENEGRO S ignificant and unusual locations in Montenegro cannot be the properly described and presented in the text. We can just direct you and hint the excitement of these locations, but the true value and beauty you must discover and experience yourself. Surroundings of Plav, Gusinje – Alipaša’s springs On the eastern side of our country, not far from Plav and Lake Plav, in the foothills of the mountains, there is a small town of Gusinje. Above Plav and Gusinje – the mountains, and on the mountains more lakes: Hridsko and Visitorsko Lake. The best and most exciting way to reach these lakes is on foot (with quality guides), but this is also possible with off-road vehicles that safely reach the lakes. There are also karst springs, and most beautiful among them are Alipaša’s springs and Skakavica’s Eye (“Oko Skakavice”). This area is known for sentry towers, from the XVII and XVIII century, according to the taste and criterion of the Ottomans, who have, for centuries, been building in their culture, architecture and lifestyle in the duration of this region. Hence, we have mosques and churches and monasteries together in the same area. High mountain of Prokletije, recently declared a national park, stand tall above the whole area, rising up to 2530 meters, due to which they are covered with snow even in summer. You will be captivated by beautiful glacial valleys, bordered by rocky inclines. Ideal occasion to visit the Plav - Gusinje region is the eco-tourism manifestation “Days of blueberries”, when the blueberries are being picked in the August sun - another ornament and remedy deriving from our nature. '' ' - '(& 166 &3( Rose is situated on the Luštica peninsula - one of the oldest settlements in the Bay of Kotor. In historical writings, known as Resnium, it has also been mentioned in the IV century. Small harbor on the southeast side of Herceg-Novi bay was once a safe haven for sailing ships. There are important archaeological sites here, both on land and in the seabed. A large number of divers arrive here due to underwater archaeological exploration and sightseeing of ships sunken long ago. Rose is easily accessible by land, as well as by sea - tourist boats from Herceg Novi, Tivat and Budva are very organized and regular. Dobreč, also in Luštica, can be reached only by waterway. This is a hidden cove at the very entrance into the Bay of Kotor. Microclimate of a quiet, peaceful bay and the richness of the typical Mediterranean vegetation, give a special charm to this isolated corner. The beach on Dobreč earned a blue flag for its environmental quality. Women’s ?2;? Bay near Ulcinj, surrounded by fragrant pine forests is a unique women’s beach. From May until the end of October, this beach is used exclusively by women. Due to the sulfur springs in the nearest shallow, the local sea water is considered curative, and with a hot, southern sun, and peace, also very beneficial. It has been proven that the conditions of the Women’s beach help in curing female sterility. Bigovo On the way between Budva and Tivat, near Kotor, and far from any hustle and bustle there is a bay, deep into the land. The bay, however, overlooks the open sea, which contributes to its specificity. Formerly a famous fishing port, today it is appealing to connoisseurs of medicinal plants and admirers of rocky beaches, pristine nature and fish delicacies. 167 Skadar Lake: &=3 (3#3 );= Package arrangements for the preseason Rijeka Crnojevića is an old urban core of the specific architecture, built in the XV century, when the ruler Ivan Crnojević moved the capital from Žabljak on the Obod hill and established a fortified town of Rijeka. Later on, members of the Petrović dynasty had their summer residences here. Rijeka Crnojevića had a weapons factory which preserved the guns taken from the Turks, the first pharmacy in Montenegro, and particularly interesting for a warrior country, a manufacture in which pearls were made out of fish scales ... Today it is known for restaurants that serve unique traditional dishes. Dodoši are at the cape, at the foot of Bobija, a compact village, in the picturesque and seasonally variable landscape. Thus, for example, for a seven-day package (half board and air transport from Belgrade and back) it is necessary to allocate from EUR 213 to EUR 396, depending on the category of the hotel that you choose. The offer also includes affordable weekend package at the most exclusive Montenegrin hotels, with the use of the wellness and spa (also half board and air transport from Belgrade) at a price of EUR 169 per person. Fishing village Karuč is recognized after the tower of St. Peter and completely authentic architecture. It is located in the far northeast of the homonymous estuary of Lake Skadar. );= In the middle of a swampy field surrounded by watercourses of Morača, Karatuna, Šegrtnica and Sjerava, lays the most famous historical monument of the entire regi- For those who would like to spend a quiet holiday until June on the coast or in the central mountainous region of Montenegro, the National Tourism Organization of Montenegro, Montenegro Airlines and Montenegrin hoteliers, have prepared special package arrangements. Arrangements include half-board hotel accommodation and air transport at very attractive prices. Kvalitetom do vas... Seven-day arrangements covering other European destinations from which Montenegro Airlines has a flight, range from EUR 279, and spa weekend packages from EUR 235 including the transport. More information on www.montenegro.travel. Special MICE package arrangements include: Transportation on the route Belgrade - Tivat (Podgorica) - Belgrade, accommodation and organization of meetings, seminars, conferences and similar events in accordance with the requirements and demands, in high category hotels (4 * and 5 *) in Bečići and Miločer. For a three-day MICE package, which includes the return flight , accommodation on half board basis, the organization of a business event with the use of halls and all technical capacities of the hotel, and a range of discounts on wellness, spa and other services, one should single out from EUR 198 to EUR 228 per person in 4 * hotels (“Queen of Montenegro” in Bečići and “Mistral” in Miločer), whereas the price for the same package at the luxurious 5 * hotel “Splendid Conference & Spa Resort”, ranges from EUR 225 to EUR 285 per person. Arrangements are valid until May 1st 2012. More information on www.montenegro.travel. on - Žabljak Crnojevića. Crnojevići resided here until the place was occupied by the Turks. It remained under their rule until the Berlin Congress, when it was returned to Montenegro. Žabljak Crnojevića is surrounded with powerful bulwarks, and some of them originated in the time when there have been no firearms. Žabljak Crnojevića, only a fortress, is now uninhabited, but its outskirts are still alive. PreduzeÉe za proizvodnju, promet i usluge, export-import Humci 29, Cetinje, Crna Gora Tel. +382 41 / 238-232, GSM +382 67 504 378 INTERVJU PROF. POL DIŠMAN, AMERIKANAC PAŠTROVIĆKE KRVI S ada, možda, može da se doživi i kao romantično putovanje kroz prošlost to traganje gospodina Dišmana za korijenima na crnogorskoj obali. Može se otkriti i neka, makar poetska pravda, u tome da umjesto svog đeda Filipa dođe na prag stare, kamene kuće i rukom dodirne te oronule zidove i zakorači po kamenim pločama pred kućom, gledajući modru pučinu preko koje su, davno, otišla braća Radović. Pa, ipak, tuga se ne da odagnati. Iako je veoma malo znao o korijenima svoje majke, Pol Dišman je sa nestrpljenjem i radošću došao u Crnu Goru i to na poziv Univerziteta Donja Gorica. Po povratku u Ameriku, priredio je izložbu fotografija – svjedočanstava o prirodnim ljepotama i specifičnoj arhitekturi, Amerikancima sasvim nepoznate, Crne Gore. Koliko ste znali o Crnoj Gori prije dolaska? Razgovarala: Nada Bukulić, Fotografije: Pol Dišman $&$() BOJE SUNCA =:'&(''' ''9 &'9('&'9& -;9':&&-&) '&&&(-9''(9& : + '='8)':FK *&)''9':*& 172 DIŠMAN: Vrlo malo, pa sam morao da pročitam više knjiga. Moj đed je bio iz sela Drobnići, na obali blizu Reževića. Otišao je kao petnaestogodišnjak, nikad se nije vratio u Crnu Goru, a umro je prije nego sam se ja rodio. Ipak, moja majka se trudila da ne zaboravim porijeklo, pa sam pišući u školi sastave o drugim zemljama najčešće pisao o Crnoj Gori i Jugoslaviji. Pred sam dolazak, imao sam priliku da upoznam Miodraga Vlahovića, crnogorskog ambasadora u SAD. On me je uputio u neke od važnijih stvari i, na taj način, pripremio za prvi susret sa Crnom Gorom. Da li Vas je intrigirala postojbina Vašeg đeda? DIŠMAN: Moj đed je rođen pred kraj devetnaestog vijeka, a otišao je u Ameriku jer u Drobnićima, i pored zemlje, lijepog roda voća i maslina, meda i kozjeg sira, ipak nije moglo da se živi sem siromašno – jer, nijesu imali sa kim razmijeniti svoja dobra. Iz doma Toma i Kate Radović prvo je otišao sin Andrija, za njim i mlađi Miloš i Filip. Ostavili su u velikom očajanju roditelje, posebno majku, koja je proklinjala i sudbinu i svog muža što joj djeca odlaze u bijeli svijet. Slutila je da najmlađeg Filipa grli posljednji put. Tako je i bilo. Moj đed je sa broda kojim je krenuo prvo ka Italiji još jednom vidio obalu svoje domovine, možda i onaj dio gdje mu je bila kuća i – nikada više. Njihova kuća je bila na kraju sela Drobnići, koje gleda na predivni Jadran. Drobnići su bili najjužnija tačka Austrougarske monarhije na crnogorskoj obali. Za mene je to magično mjesto: možete jesti narandžu ubranu sa drveta i gledati svuda oko vas planinske vrhove pokrivene snijegom. Bio je to težak život? DIŠMAN: Naravno, radili su mnogo – od rudnika pa do kafana i restorana. Filip i Miloš su otišli na različite strane, a Andrija se vratio u Crnu Goru. Filip je u partnerstvo ušao sa drugim Crnogorcem, M. L. Krstovićem i otvorili su The Palace Cafe. Ali, dešavale su se i lijepe stvari? Ljubavi, djeca? DIŠMAN: Da. Jedne subote 1925, dok je Filip brisao suđe, u Cafe je ušla jedna od malobrojnih žena u gradu Globu u to vrijeme. Bila je učiteljica u indijanskom rezervatu i odlučila je da sebe časti dobrim ručkom u mjesnom restoranu. Bila je to moja baba Jessie. Pošto je završila koledž, Jessie je radila kao učiteljica u različim mjestima po Teksasu. Već je mislila da će ostarati kao učiteljica usjedjelica. Voljela je svoj posao, đake, ali je ubrzo zavoljela i egzotičnog stranca po imenu Filip. On je imao 31 godinu, ona šest više. Vratili su se u Hereford, IZ PISMA MAJCI A8 @ ))) (-8) ( )) &)G (-6(9') )-=9& '& ' '9- '&(&&&()K *& 2&'')( ' 9&'5B (Postoji oglas iz novina iz 1925. i fotografija na kojoj Filip i Krstović stoje pored magareta, kojem češkaju uši.) Njihov The Palace Café selio se kako su se selili ljudi – iz rudnika u rudnik, pa su otišli prvo u Majami, pa u Siperior, i na kraju u Globe (Arizona). Teško je bilo i onima koji su ostali. Tomo i Kata više nikada nijesu vidjeli ni Filipa ni Miloša. Miloš je bio onaj sentimentalniji sin. Pisao je često pisma kući i slao pakete sa hranom, odjećom i ćebadima. I Filip je slao pakete i razglednice. Miloševa pisma su uvijek bila puna vijesti o životu u Kaliforniji, o porodici i novostima iz Amerike. Raspitivao se za svakog pojedinačno iz sela. Uvijek je brinuo za roditelje: da li imaju dovoljno odjeće, da li im je toplo, imaju li dovoljno hrane. Vjerovatno znajući šturost svog brata, uvijek je bio ljubazan da pisma potpisuje sa Miloš i Filip, iako su živjeli hiljadu milja udaljeni jedan od drugog... gdje im se rodila kćerka. Dali su joj ime Phillis, po ocu. Nijesu imali više djece. Filip je, dakle, svojoj kćeri, a Vašoj majci, pričao o Crnoj Gori? DIŠMAN: Naprotiv. Phil nikada nije ništa rekao o svom jeziku, domovini, ni o svojoj porodici u Crnoj Gori. Nikada joj nije pričao o svom djetinjstvu, školi, radu na porodičnom imanju. Nikada nije rekao da ima roditelje, rođake ili braću. Nikada ni riječ o tome. Jedan od razloga što sam odlučio da dođem u Crnu Goru jeste i taj da otkrijem njegove razloge za to. Vaše impresije kada ste došli u Crnu Goru po prvi put? DIŠMAN: Crna Gora je jednostavno predivna! Ministarstvo turizma je reklamira 173 kao „divlju ljepotu” i zaista nijesu pretjerali. Ima planine koje liče na Alpe, doline sa čokotima grožđa, brze rijeke, bogate, netaknute (i stare) šume, ima fjordove sa skoro vertikalnim masivima koji streme ka nebu, a opet svuda plaža do plaže, nadovezane pod suncem. I sve to u zemlji koja je 55 x 80 milja. Veličanstvenost u malom! Šta Vas je najviše impresioniralo? DIŠMAN: Teško je odlučiti šta je ljepše, da li pejzaži ili ljudi. Crnogorci su visoki, crne kose i malo tamnijeg tena (zbog mediteranskog sunca), i izuzetno lijepi. A tek žene? Žene imaju dugu crnu kosu, naglašeno duge noge, ten kao bebe i osmijeh koji „ubija”. Sve su prave slavenske sirene. Obično ljude koji dođu u Crnu Goru, impresionira mješavina kultura na malom prostoru. To ste i Vi primijetili, pa se može mnogo toga vidjeti i na Vašim fotografijama. Međutim, kao profesor ste upoznali i mlade ljude u Crnoj Gori? DIŠMAN: Pošto sam imao čast da predajem na Univerzitetu Donja Gorica, vrlo sam impresioniran uspjesima koje je postigla prva generacija studenata u liderstvu u biznisu. Osjetio sam veliku želju među studentima da se posvete biznisu i stvaranju radnih mjesta, kao i njihovu želju da učestvuju u stvaranju nove Crne Gore. Bio sam vrlo impresioniran mladim ženama i njihovom posvećenošću visokom obrazovanju i napredovanju. Jeste li se sprijateljili sa nekim u Crnoj Gori? DIŠMAN: Crnogorci su divni prijatelji. Imali smo sreće, moja žena i ja, što su nas ljudi prihvatili tako srdačno. Iako smo sada geografski udaljeni, naši novi prijatelji u srcu su nam. Stalno smo u kontaktu preko interneta. A rođaci? Jeste li uspostavili kontakt sa nekim ko zna ili se sjeća Vaših predaka? DIŠMAN: Kad sam došao, upoznao sam tetku Evu Radović, koja ima 92 godine, a vrlo je bistrog uma. Ima dugu srebrnu kosu, prodorne plave oči, lice puno istorije i imamo isti široki nos. Njen sluh je i dalje dobar i vrlo je precizna u izražavanju svojih osjećanja. Rekao sam joj koliko mi je žao što moja majka nije mogla da dođe i upozna je. Pripremili smo za Evu album sa fotografijama mog đeda i bake, roditelja, sestre i naših porodica. Dok je listala, plakala je. Kada bi naišla na fotografiju nekog rođaka, poljubila bi je. Nije prije toga vidjela fotografiju mog đeda, niti moje majke. U potkrovlju njene kuće još je bilo kutija koje je moj đed slao sa poklonima iz Amerike, ali nikada nije poslao svoju sliku. Kada je Eva poljubila album, srce mi se steglo jer sam odjednom shvatio porodicu koju su vrijeme i geografska udaljenost razdvojili. koja boluje od Alchajmera. Sa svakim novim čitanjem, nanovo doživljavam sva prijašnja uzbuđenja. Uzbuđenje što sam vidio zemlju, našao kuću, upoznao ljude iz porodice moga đeda. Gledam fotografije mjesta koja smo posjetili, porodice koju smo našli, ljudi koje smo sreli. I zasuze mi oči. Ponekad i zbog razloga koje ne razumijem. Kakvi su sada komentari porodice i prijatelja o Crnoj Gori? DIŠMAN: Većina Amerikanaca nikada nije čula za Crnu Goru, a oni koji jesu, ne umiju je naći na karti. Ljudima u Americi riječ Montenegro zvuči španski. Kada bih rekao kuda putujem, svi bi me pogledali zbu- njeno, pokušavajući da se sjete gdje bi to moglo biti. Većina prijatelja je mislila da je to glavni grad Urugvaja. Drugi su me pitali da li je to neka republika blizu Belizea. Treći su mislili da je to neko portugalsko ostrvo, pored Afrike. Nakon što smo se vratili u SAD i opisali im naše putovanje i iskustvo, većina je rekla da bi voljeli da otputuju u Crnu Goru i vide istorijske i prirodne znamenitosti. Šta ste probali iz crnogorske kuhinje i šta Vam se od toga dopalo? Vino, rakija..? DIŠMAN: Moja žena obožava masline i tokom boravka u Crnoj Gori jela ih je svaki dan, šest različitih vrsta! Meni se dopalo lo- kalno voće: smokve, narandže i mandarine. Tako slatke i ukusne, pune sunčevog sjaja! Pokušavao sam da pijem domaću rakiju, a sok od narandži pio sam svakog dana, kad god sam imao priliku. Dopalo nam se da jedemo po restoranima duž cijele Boke Kotorske, gdje je riba odlična, a ambijent predivan. Nešto što biste željeli da kažete, a nismo Vas pitali… DIŠMAN: Morate dovesti što više gostiju! Što više ljudi treba da uživa u onome što Crna Gora nudi. Treba da odu u prirodu, da vide tu ljepotu i toliku raznolikost pejzaža koji čine Crnu Goru predivnom. %.$12 Dok smo bili kod Eve, došli smo i do priče o zajedničkim crtama lica. Pitao sam je da li ja izgledam kao Crnogorac? Eva je uzela moju glavu među svoje dlanove, protresla je i pogledala je pažljivo od čela do brade. Klimnula je glavom i rekla: „Crnogorac… ne!” A onda je napravila pokret preko mojih gustih obrva i dodala: „Paštrović, da!” .0( FOTOGRAFIJE Zbog svega što sam doživio došavši u Crnu Goru, zbog domovine mog đeda, zbog svega što jesam i što nijesam uspio da razumijem i shvatim, a najviše radi moje majke, napisao sam knjigu o ovom iskustvu. U knjizi ima i mnogo fotografija. Čitam majci 174 175 INTERVIEW PROF. PAUL DISHMAN, AN AMERICAN WITH THE PASTROVICS’ BLOOD SUN COLORED ORANGES Were you intrigued by your grandfather’s homeland? DISHMAN: My grandfather was born before the end of the nineteenth century, and he went to America, because in Drobnići, despite the land, beautiful fruit and olives, honey and goat’s cheese, the only life to be led was poor. They had no one to exchange their good with. Son Andrija was the first to leave the home of Tomo and Kata Radović, and the younger Miloš and Filip followed. They left their parents in great despair, especially their mother, who cursed the destiny and her husband that her children were leaving to see the great wide world. She sensed that she was embracing the youngest one, Filip, for the last time. And so she was. My grandfather saw the shore of his homeland once again from the boat headed for Italy, perhaps watching a part where his house was – then and never again. Their house was at the end of the hamlet of Drobnići, looking over the beautiful Adriatic. Drobnići was the southernmost point of the Austro-Hungarian Empire on the Montenegrin coast. This is a magical place for me: you can eat an orange picked from a tree and watch mountain peaks all around you covered in snow. Interviewed by: Nada Bukilić, Photo by: Paul Dishman Was it a hard life? ('' &( ( & - ?'-J&& -K =='8K *&' *&- N ow, perhaps, this quest for Mr. Dishman’s roots on the Mo ntenegrin coast may be experienced as a romantic journey through the past. One can detect some, at least poetic justice that he arrived at the threshold of the old, stone house instead of his grandfather Filip, touched the dilapidated walls and stepped onto the stone slabs in front of the house, watching the blue horizon, across which Radović brothers left. And yet, grief cannot be driven away. Although he knew very little about his mothers roots, Paul Dishman came to 176 Montenegro with anticipation and joy, at the invitation of the University of Donja Gorica. Upon returning to America, he organized an exhibition of photographs testimonies about the the natural beauties and the specific architecture of, to the Americans quite uknown, Montenegro. How much did you know about Montenegro prior to arrival? DISHMAN: Very little, so I had to read multiple books. My grandfather was from the hamlet of Drobnići, on the coast near Reževići. He left as a fifteen-year-old, never returned to Montenegro, and died before I was born. However, my mother made sure that I did not forget about my heritage, so while writing essays in school, I mostly wrote about Montenegro and Yugoslavia. Before arriving, I had the opportunity to meet with Miodrag Vlahović, the Montenegrin Ambassador to the U.S., who briefed me on some of the most important things and, in that way, prepared me for the first meeting with Montenegro. DISHMAN: Of course, they worked a lot from the mines to the bars and restaurants. Filip and Miloš went their separate ways, and Andrija went back to Montenegro. Filip has entered into a partnership with another Montenegrin, M. L. Krstović and opened The Palace Cafe. (There is a newspaper advertisement from 1925 and a photograph of Filip and Krstović standing beside a mule, scratching his ears). Their Palace Café moved as the people moved – from mine to mine, first they went to Miami, then Superior, and finally in Globe, Arizona. It was hard for those who stayed at home as well. Tomo and Kata never saw Miloš and Filip again. Miloš was the more sentimental of the two. He frequently wrote letters and sent packages of food, clothes and blankets. Filip also sent packages and postcards. Miloš’s letters were full of news about his life in California, his family and news in America. He would ask about everyone in the village. He was always worried about his parents, if they had enough clothes, food, if they are warm enough. Probably knowing his brother’s terse nature, he was always kind enough to sign the letters with “Miloš and Filip” although they lived a thousand miles from each other.0 But, nice things have happened too? Love, children? DISHMAN: Yes. One Saturday in 1925, Filip was cleaning dishes when in walked one of the few women in Globe at the time. She was a teacher on the Indian reservation and had decided to treat herself to a meal at the local diner. It was my grandmother Jessie. After graduation from college, Jessie worked as a teacher in various places in Texas. She thought that she would grow old as a teacher-spinster. She loved her job, the students, but she soon fell in love with an exotic foreigner by the name of Filip. He was 31 years old, and she was six years older. They returned to Hereford where their daughter was born. They named her Phyllis after her father. They did not have any more children. Filip has, therefore, talked about Montenegro to his daughter and your mother? DISHMAN: On the contrary. Phil never told her a single thing about his language, his homeland, or his family in Montenegro. He never told stories of his childhood, school, or working on the family farm. He never mentioned that he had parents, or cousins, or brothers. He never said a word about any of it. Part of the reason for my journey was to come to Montenegro and find out why. What impressed you most? DISHMAN: It is difficult to know which is more beautiful, the landscape or the people. Montenegrins are tall, with dark hair and complexion (from the Mediterranean sun), and are exceedingly handsome. And the women? The women have long black hair, accentuated long legs, baby-like complexions and killer smiles. All of them are the Slavic sirens. Usually when people who come to Montenegro, they are impressed with the mixture of cultures on such a small area. You have noticed that, and much of it can be seen on your photos. However, as a professor, you also met young people in Montenegro? DISHMAN: Having the honor of teaching at University of Donja Gorica, I was very impressed with the accomplishments of the first generation of students being trained in business leadership. I sensed great hunger among students to dedicate themselves to business and creating jobs, as well as contribute toward the building of a new Montenegro. I was especially impressed with the young women and their dedication toward higher education and improvement. Have you made any friends in Montenegro? DISHMAN: Montenegrins are wonderful friends. We were lucky, my wife and I, to have been so embraced by people. Even though we are now geographically distant, our new friends are in our hearts. We stay in touch through Internet. Your first impressions when you came to Montenegro for the first time? Have you made contact with someone who knows or remembers your ancestors? DISHMAN: Montenegro is simply magnificent. Their Ministry of Tourism markets it as having “Wild Beauty” and they have not exaggerated. It has Alp-like mountains, valleys of grape-filled vineyards, roaring river rapids, lush, pristine (and primordial) forests, fjords with almost vertical massifs that march straight up to the sky, and beach after beach that face into the setting sun. All of this in a country of 55 per 80 miles across. It’s magnificence in a miniature. DISHMAN: When I came, I met Aunt Eva Radović who is 92 years old and very sharp. She has long silver hair, piercing blue eyes, a chiseled face full of history, and we share the same large nose. Her hearing is fine and she was quite articulate in expressing her feelings. I told her how sorry I was that my mother could not come and meet her. We had made Eva a photo album with pictures of my grandfather and grandmother, my parents, sister and our families. She cried 177 while she leafed through. When she would come across a picture of some relative, she would kiss it. She had never seen a picture of my grandfather, much less my mother. In the attic of her house, she still had large boxes that my grandfather had sent her filled with gifts from America, but he had never sent a picture of himself. When Eva kissed the album, it was heartbreaking as I suddenly understood a family separated by time and geographical distance. WRITTEN ON THE FACE As we sat with Eva, the subject of common physical family traits came up. I asked if I looked like a Montenegrin. Eva grabbed my head, tilted it, and examined it closely from the forehead to my chin. She nodded and said “Montenegrin... no!” And then she made a movement over my thick eyebrows and added, “Paštrović, yes!” MORE THAN A PHOTOGRAPH Because of everything I experienced coming to Montenegro, because of my grandfather’s homeland, because of everything that I am and what I did not understand and comprehend, I wrote a book about this experience. The book contains many photos. I read it to my mother who has Alzheimer’s. When I re-read the story, I relive all the previous excitements. The excitement of seeing the land, finding the house, meeting my grandfather’s family. I look at the pictures of the places we went to, the people we met, the family we fo178 und. I get teary eyed. Sometimes for reasons I do not understand. What were the comments of your family and friends about Montenegro? DISHMAN: Most Americans have never heard of Montenegro and those who have cannot find it on a map. To people in the United States, the word Montenegro sounds Spanish. When I would mention to people where we were going, they would all get a glazed look while they tried to remember where it could be. Most of our friends thought that it was the capital of Uruguay. Others asked if it was some republic near Belize. The third thought it was some Portuguese island off the coast of Africa. After we returned to the States and described our travel and experiences, most said that they would like to travel to Montenegro and see the historical sites and natural wonders. What did you try of Montenegrin cuisine, and what did you like of it? Wine, rakija? DISHMAN: My wife loves olives all during the stay in Montenegro she ate them every day, six different kinds! I liked local fruits: figs, oranges, and pomegranates. So sweet and succulent, full of sunshine! I tri- ed to drink the homemade rakija and orange juice every day, every chance I got. We loved eating at the restaurants on the Bay of Kotor, the fish was wonderful and the ambiance sublime. Anything you would like to say, that we did not ask you… DISHMAN: You must bring as many guests as possible! More people should enjoy in what Montenegro has to offer. They should travel the countryside to see the beauty and the immense variety of scenery that make up the wonderful country of Montenegro. FROM A LETTER TO THE MOTHER Dear Mother, When you write, tell me wha hat you need. Do you have something warm to cover yourself with when you go too beed? Pleasee re r cei e ve our deepest affection. Do not worry and do no n t ange g r your ge ou sellf beca c use it doess not n do you an ny good. Give i our greetings to those who do and those that do not ask about us. We will always be your sons and we wish you wel well, l, ) K * *& & (Thee othe (Th others rs tha thatt are are her heree from from ou ourr hills hil ls sen send d thei t e r love, too. oo ) 179 ANKONA PALERMO KATANIJA PROLJEΔE / LJETO 2012. GODINE 19804 PROMOTIVNE CIJENE NA SVIM DESTINACIJAMA MONTENEGRO AIRLINES ZA VAS +382 20 66 44 11 +382 20 66 44 33 +382 33 45 17 35 KONTAKTI Direkcija Head office Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica Montenegro (Serbia & Montenegro) ++ 382 20 405 500 ++ 382 20 405 501 ++ 382 20 405 548 fax e-mail: head.offi[email protected] Informacije i rezervacije Booking ++ 382 20 9804 ++ 382 20 405 543 fax e-mail: [email protected] Komercijalni sektor Commerce department ++ 382 20 405 533 ++ 382 20 405 535 fax e-mail: [email protected] Sektor za marketing i korporativne komunikacije Marketing & Corporative Communications Department ++ 382 20 405 538 ++ 382 20 405 537 fax e-mail: [email protected] POSLOVNICE OFFICES Beograd / Belgrade Knez Mihailova 23, 11 000 Beograd ++ 381 11 2621 122 ++ 381 11 3036 535 ++ 381 11 3036 536 ++ 381 11 2181 861 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] FLOTA Kotor Kopenhagen / Copenhagen Stari grad 320, Zgrada turističkog fakulteta ++ 382 32 304 860 ++ 382 32 304 861 ++ 382 32 304 864 ++ 382 32 304 865 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] Kopenhagen - Quality Air Tours Adresa: Vester Voldgade 96, 4 sprat 1552 Copenhagen V, Denmark Telefon: + 45 33 11 33 16 Fax: + 45 33 11 54 55 e-mail: offi[email protected] DIMENZIJE/DIMENSIONS Razmah krila / Wing span Ukupna dužina / Total lenght Ukupna visina / Total height Prečnik trupa / Fuselage diameter Površina krila / Wing area ŠALTERI NA AERODROMIMA AIRPORT OFFICES PERFORMANSE / PERFORMANCE Max brzina leta / Max operating speed Max brzina leta / Max operating speed Max visina leta / Max operating altitude FLEET www.montenegroairlines.com 28.08 m 35.53 m 8.50 m 3.30 m 93.5 m2 92 ft 1.4in 116 ft 6.8 in 27 ft 10.5 in 10 ft 9.92 in 1006.5 sq ft 320 kts CAS 0,77 M 10.668 m 35000 ft 35835 kg 43090 kg 38780 kg 79000 lb 95000 lb 85500 lb Beč / Vienna Kaiserstr. 86, 1070 Vienna ++ 43 664 3 111 405 ++ 43 179 639 35 e-mail: offi[email protected] Cirih / Zurich Postfach 2419, 8058 Flughafen, Terminal 2 ++ 41 43 816 7876 ++ 41 43 816 7877 ++ 41 43 816 7878 ++ 41 43 816 7884 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] Podgorica ++ 382 20 445 105 ++ 382 20 445 160 fax ++ 382 20 67 624 524 (GSM) TEŽINE / WEIGHTS Max težina bez goriva / Max zero fuel weight Max težina na polijetanju / Max take-off weight Max težina na slijetanju / Max landing weight Tivat Frankfurt Terminal 2, halle d, 60547 Frankfurt am Main ++ 49 69 28 23 74 ++ 49 69 28 11 76 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] Rim / Rome Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci, Terminal 2, 00187 Roma ++ 39 06 6595 8661 e-mail: offi[email protected] Pariz / Paris 140, avenue Champs Elyseés, 75008 Paris ++ 33 1 70 36 19 07 ++ 33 1 70 36 19 08 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] Podgorica Slobode 23, 81 000 Podgorica ++ 382 20 664 411 ++ 382 20 664 433 ++ 382 20 665 291 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] CONTACTS www.montenegroairlines.com London Grosvenor Gardens House, suite 112/3th floor 35-37 Grosvenor Gardens London SW1W 0BS, United Kingdom ++ 44 (0) 207 8644 031 ++ 44 (0) 207 8644 032 ++ 44 (0) 207 8644 033 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] ++ 382 32 670 500 ++ 382 32 670 501 fax ++ 382 67 670 500 (GSM) Beograd ++ 381 11 228 6241 ++ 381 11 209 400 (lokal 7302) Ljubljana Letališče Brnik, 4210 Brnik Passenger Service ++ 386 4 2594 252 ++ 386 4 2594 245 Moskva / Moscow Montenegro Airlines Aerodrom Domodedovo, kancelarija 3.57 Tel: + 74 95 28 715 25 Fax: + 74 95 28 715 26 e-mail: offi[email protected] SPOLJNE DIMENZIJE / EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS Razmah krila / Wingspan Ukupna dužina / Length Overall Ukupna visina / Height Overall Razmah horizontalnog stabilizatora / Horizontal Stabilizer Span Širina trupa / Fuselage Width Visina trupa / Fuselage Height 94ft 3in 126ft 10in 34ft 7in 39ft 8in 9ft 11in 11ft 0in 28.72m 38.65m 10.55m 12.08m 3.01m 3.35m UNUTRAŠNJE DIMENZIJE / INTERNAL DIMENSIONS Dužina putničke kabine / Cabin Length Širina putničke kabine / Cabin Width Visina putničke kabine / Cabin Height Širina prolaza između sjedišta / Aisle Width Širina sjedišta / Seat Width 92ft 5in 9ft 0in 6ft 7in 19.75in 18.25in 28.17m 2.74m 2.00m 0.50m 0.46m 94 ft 3 in (28.72 m) Moskva / Moscow Montenegro Airlines Kadesevskaja nabereznaja, br.6/1/2 str. 1. Tel: +7 499 230 16 73 e-mail: offi[email protected] 39 ft 8 in (12.08 m) Budva Slovenska obala bb, 86 000 Budva ++ 382 33 451 735 ++ 382 33 456 244 ++ 382 33 454 900 fax e-mail: offi[email protected] 184 Niš Montenegro Airlines Niš ul. Vazduhoplovaca 24 18000 Niš tel/fax +381 18 4 583 336 185 Destinacije LJETO 2012. Destinations Destinacije SUMMER 2012 Destinations LJETO 2012. SUMMER 2012 NAUTIČKE MILJE NAUTIC MILES KM Flight time Trajanje leta 212 337 392 624 36 54 213 437 1123 330 451 497 393 809 2078 610 834 919 40 80 180 85 90 110 CHARTER FLIGHTS NAUTIČKE MILJE NAUTIC MILES KM Flight time Trajanje leta (min) (min) PODGORICA PODGORICA BEOGRAD/BELGRADE BEČ/VIENNA FRANKFURT LJUBLJANA RIM/ROME CIRIH/ZURICH PARIZ/PARIS LONDON NIŠ KOPENHAGEN 169 431 786 401 353 660 954 960 200 900 313 798 1456 743 654 1222 1764 1776 365,2 1625 38 65 115 60 60 105 140 155 35 160 190 1058 352 1959 40 190 BARI NAPOLI BRINDIZI (BRINDISI) ISTANBUL (ISTANBUL) PETROGRAD/ST. PETERSBURG ANKONA PALERMO KATANIJA TIVAT BEOGRAD/BELGRADE MOSKVA/MOSCOW Dragi putnici, Dear passengers, Molimo poštovane putnike da kontaktiraju Montenegro Airlines Booking službu (++ 382 20 19804), naša predstavništva ili ovlašćene putničke agencije radi detaljnih informacija o letovima. Please contact Montenegro Airlines central booking service on tel. +382 20 9804, our Branch Offices or authorised travel agents for flight details. S poštovanjem, Montenegro Airlines Komercijalni sektor www.montenegroairlines.com 186 Best regards, men Montenegro Airlines Commercial Department Na osnovu interline ugovora sa brojnim avio-kompanijama u svijetu, Based on interline agreements with numerous airlines in the world, you can kod nas možete kupiti kartu za neku od sledećih destinacija: buy tickets to some of the following destinations in Montenegro Airlines offices: iz/from Frankfurt: Atlanta / Detroit / Chicago / Los Angeles / Miami / New York / Houston / Washinton / Dallas / Singapore / Manila Kuala Lumpur / Sydney / Toronto / Montreal / Tokyo / Osaka / Rio de Janeiro / Buenos Aires / Caracas / Mexico City iz/from Rome: Boston / Miami / Chicago / New York / Washington / Toronto / Beijing iz/from Wienna: Toronto / Montreal / Delhi / Beijing / Bangkok / Sydney / Melbourne 187
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