e Like the touch of king Midas

lllllll Putovanja / Travel
Muzej Arsenala Porto Montenegro
/ Muzej Arsenala Porto Montenegro
Kao
dodir
kralja
Mide
e
L ike the touch
of King Midas
CRNA GORA
u fokusu
Montenegro
in focus
Crna Gora je tek
treća mediteranska
zemlja, posle Italije
i Izraela, koja je
potpuno obnovila i
izložila u pomorskom
muzeju savremenu
podmornicu iz
doba Hladnog rata.
Nekadašnja baza
podmorničara, danas
je ekskluzivna luka za
najluksuznije jahte na
svetu
e Montenegro
is only the third
Mediterranean
country, following
Italy and Israel,
to completely
restore and exhibit
a contemporary
submarine from the
Cold War period at
the country’s Maritime
Museum. This former
submarine base is
today an exclusive
haven for the world’s
most luxurious yachts
Tekst / Words: Denis Kuljiš,
Fotografije / Photography:
Predrag Vučković
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lllllll Putovanja / Travel
lllllll
N
ajveći brod u luci Porto
Montenegro, koju međunarodni Jaht klub
(Asocijacija luka za jahte) proglašava najboljom marinom za superjahte na svetu
za 2015. godinu, ne plovi, nego se izdiže
nasukan na kopnu, i to nije neka aerodinamična bela lađa, nego čeličnosiva podmornica klase Heroj od 700 tona deplasmana
(istisnine).
Pedesetmetarski ratni brod izložen
je na otvorenom, kao eksponat izuzetnog
muzeja koji evocira dugu i slavnu prošlost
nekadašnjeg ratnog arsenala, pretvorenog
danas u mondensku luku sa 400 vezova.
Tu mogu pristati i najveće luksuzne krstarice svetskih oligarha dužine od 180 metara! Porto Montenegro je neprekidno u izgradnji – planirano je 850 vezova, što znači
da će postati najveća marina u Evropi…
Promena u tom mestu dogodila se kao
dodir kralja Mide iz grčke mitologije, koji
je sve pretvarao u zlato. Neugledne radionice komunističke države u pomorskom
gradiću Tivtu u zalivu Boke Kotorske u
Crnoj Gori pretvorene su u ovo luksuzno
gnezdo. I zaista, 2006. godine je objekat
Brod je na zadatku bio naoružan sa deset torpeda, a ispaljivana su
iz četiri torpedne cevi e When on a mission the ship was armed
with ten torpedoes that could be fired from four torpedo tubes
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nekadašnje Jugoslovenske ratne mornarice
kupio Piter Mank (88), vlasnik kanadskog
rudnika zlata, najvećeg na svetu. Njegova
vizija pretvorila je Arsenal u raskošnu luku.
Tivatski Arsenal proživljavao je u tom
času silnu oskudicu kao ugašeni remontni
zavod propale ratne mornarice države koja
je nestala 1990. godine. To je bila treća
država koja se raspala u istoriji Arsenala.
Tivatsku obalsku radionicu uspostavila je
još Austrougarska, koja je u zalivu imala
neosvojivo pomorsko uporište. U vreme
Prvog svetskog rata tu su se usidravali najveći drednoti i razmenjivali dalekometnu
vatru s francuskim artiljerijskim baterijama
dopremljenim na nepristupačne vrhunce
mitske crnogorske planine Lovćen, što se
izdiže iznad Boke. Posle rata bazu i brodogradilište uspostavila je flota Kraljevine
Jugoslavije, gde je u posetu uplovljavala
cela britanska Sredozemna flota. Konačno,
posle Drugog svetskog rata, tivatsko brodogradilište preraslo je u značajan industrijski
pogon za remont podmornica. Na flotnoj
listi uvek je bilo pet velikih poput izloženog
Heroja P-821, porinutog 1967, a sagrađeno
je i šest džepnih od 88 tona, od kojih je druga u seriji, Una P-912 iz 1986, takođe izlo-
Obnovljena podmornica Heroj P-821 iz 1967.
godine je veoma redak muzejski eksponat
koji bi sa ponosom izložili najugledniji
pomorski muzeji sveta e The restored
Hero T-821 submarine from 1967 is a very
rare museum exhibit that the world’s most
distinguished maritime museums would be
proud to present
Mokra diverzantska ronilica R-2 razvijena
šezdesetih godina prošlog veka e Wet
sabotage submarine R-2, developed in the
1960s
e The largest ship docked in Porto
Montenegro’s marina, which the international Yacht Harbour Association has
proclaimed the best super-yacht marina in
the world for 2015, does not sail, but rather
rises stranded on the land, and it’s no aerodynamic white ship, but rather an irongrey Heroj class (eng. Hero) submarine
with a displacement of 700 tonnes.
The fifty-metre-long warship is displayed in the open-air, as an exceptional
museum exhibit that evokes the long and
glorious past of the former war arsenal,
which has now been converted into a
fashionable port with 400 berths. The dock
can cater for the largest luxury cruisers
of world oligarchs up to 180 metres’ long!
Porto Montenegro is constantly under construction – 850 berths are planned, which
will make it the largest marina in Europe...
The transformation of this place came
like the touch of Greek mythology’s King
Midas, who turned everything he touched
into gold. The unsightly workshops of the
communist state in the maritime town of
Tivat in Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor were
converted into this luxurious haven. And,
indeed, in 2006 the premises of the former
Yugoslav Navy were bought the Peter
Munk (88), the owner of a Canadian gold
mine, the largest such mine in the world.
His vision has transformed the Arsenal
into a multifarious port.
At that juncture the Tivat Arsenal was
enduring a period of tremendous scarcity,
as an extinct repair facility of the combat
navy of a failed state that vanished in
1990. That was the third country to collapse during the history of the Arsenal.
The Tivat coastal workshop was first established by the Austro-Hungarian Empire,
which had an impregnable naval base in
the bay. During World War I the largest
dreadnoughts were anchored there and
exchanged long-range artillery fire from
the French batteries located the rugged
peaks of Montenegro’s legendary Lovćen
Mountain, which rises above the bay.
After the war, the base and shipyard were
re-established as the home of the Yugoslav
fleet, which welcomed the entire British
Mediterranean Fleet for a visit. Finally,
after World War II, the Tivat shipyard
developed into a major industrial facility
for the repair of submarines. The fleet list
always included five large exposed Hero
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lllllll Putovanja / Travel
žena u tivatskom muzeju, odmah
uz bok Heroja, kao mala ulješura
pod tatinim perajem.
Očuvane i održavane muzejske flotne podmornice veoma su
retke. Na Sredozemnom moru
postoje još samo dve – jedna italijanska, nešto manja od ove, može
se videti u milanskom tehnološkom muzeju, dok u đenovskoj
luci pored replike Kolumbove
karavele pluta jedna mnogo veća,
„Nacario Sauro“.
Heroj je bio moćan ratni brod
naoružan sa četiri torpedne cevi
nutku lansiraju ruska torpeda sa
200 kilograma eksploziva na cilj
udaljen deset do dvanaest kilometara… Stvarna prilika za to nije
im se, srećom, nikad ukazala.
Sve zgrade tivatskog
Remontnog zavoda srušene su
kada se gradio elegantni hotel
Ridžent u središtu luksuznog
kompleksa Porto Montenegro.
Ostala je i obnovljena samo tokarska radionica s drvenom krovnom konstrukcijom koja pomalo
podseća na venecijanski Arsenal
u kome se održava Bijenale. U
Očuvane i
održavane muzejske
flotne podmornice
veoma su retke. Na
Sredozemnom moru
postoje još samo
dve. e The museum
preservation and
maintenance of a
fleet of submarines
is extremely rare. In
the Mediterranean
there are only two
other examples
Tokarska radionica
sa drvenom krovnom
konstrukcijom pretvorena
je u Muzej (dole i desno).
Top „bofors 40mm“
predstavljao je glavnu
protivvazdušna zaštitaflotnih brodova (levo)
e Lathe workshop with
a wooden roof structure
was converted into a museum (bottom right). The
„Bofors 40mm“ cannon
was the main anti-aircraft
protection for the ships
of the fleet (left)
i deset torpeda. Ronio je više od
dvesta metara duboko, a najduže
je u misiji pod vodom ostao više
od mesec dana. Prostor podmornice strahovito je stešnjen.
Teško je zamisliti kako je pedeset članova posade na površini
manjoj od luksuznog apartmana
rezidencijalnog naselja „Porto
Montenegro“ izdržalo u toj zagušljivoj zamci opremljenoj jednim
toaletom u krmi. Kuvalo se u
prostoru ispod palube, nalik na
ćeliju samice, jedino je kapetan
imao odeljak sa svojim krevetom
na polici kao u spavaćim kolima
nekadašnjih vozova, dok su ostali
članovi posade spavali na uskim
visećim ležajevima uvukavši se
pored torpednih cevi…
Brod boje bitumena iz doba
Hladnog rata posadi nije pružao
nijednu pogodnost. Grupa neobrijanih muškaraca krstarila je pod
morem, spremna da u svakom tre66
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njoj je izložena stalna postavka
Muzeja, eksponati iz svih razdoblja tivatskog arsenala: starinska
ronilačka odela, Boforsov top od
40 milimetara, paravan minolovke, makete brodova i podmornica
izgrađenih ili opremanih u Tivtu,
i zastarele mašine koje čuvaju uspomenu na zanatska dostignuća
majstora tivatskih radionica.
Osim stalne postavke, Muzej
organizuje izložbe tematski povezane s delatnošću nekadašnjeg
arsenala. Upravo je otvorena
zbirka etnografskih crteža koje je
1914. načinio Leopold Forstner,
bečki likovni umetnik, prijatelj
Ota Vagnera i Gustava Klimta.
Pridodat zbog naučne ekspedicije
ogranku austrougarske vojske
koji se preko Boke otisnuo na
Balkan, on je skicirao zemlju i
ljude, prizore orijentalnog života
od Skoplja do najzabačenijih sela
Albanije.
lllllll
Na otvaranju izložbe, u Muzeju
se okupio i klub bivših jugoslovenskih podmorničara koji su
učestvovali u gradnji i operacijama
podmornica iz Tivta. Danas, kao
građani država nastalih na području
bivše Jugoslavije, neguju zajedničku tradiciju, jer smatraju da su
njihove podmornice bile ne samo
tehničko već i kulturno dostignuće,
bez obzira na to što se radi o oružju.
Naime, šezdesetih godina prošlog
veka, kada je podmornica Heroj
izgrađena, bilo je samo deset zemalja u svetu koje su bile sposobne za
takav poduhvat.
Imponuje što je jedan kanadski
milijarder, čija kompanija iskazuje
toliki obzir prema tradiciji, tivatsko
nasleđe razumeo i omogućio gradnju Muzeja. Tim više, raskoš Porto
Montenegra nije fatamorgana, nego
neobičan novi procvat jedne čudne
pomorske biljke dubokog korena…
Izloženo je i starinsko
ronilačko odelo e The
exhibition also features
an antique diving suit
P-821 submarines, launched in
1967, while six pocket subs of 88
tonnes were also built here. The
second such sub in that series,
“Una” P-912 from 1986, is also
exhibited by the Tivat Museum,
right alongside the Hero, like a
small member of a whale pod
under father’s fin.
The museum preservation
and maintenance of a fleet of
submarines is extremely rare. In
the Mediterranean there are only
two other examples – one in Italy,
slightly smaller than the Montenegrin example, can be seen at
the Milan Museum of Technology, while at the Genoese port, in
addition to replicas of Columbus’s
caravels, floats a much larger Nazario Sauro class submarine.
The Hero was a mighty
warship armed with four torpedo
tubes and ten torpedoes. It could
dive to a depth of more than two
hundred metres and the longest
it spent submerged on a mission
was in excess of a month. The
space within the submarines is
terribly restricted. It is hard to
imagine how a fifty-man crew
endured in that stuffy trap,
equipped with only one toilet in
the stern, in an area less than the
size of a luxury apartment in the
Porto Montenegro residential
village. They baked in the space
below deck, as though locked in
a solitary confinement cell, while
only the captain had a section
with raised bed like those in the
sleeper cars of old trains, while
the other crewmembers slept on
narrow suspended hammocks
beside torpedo tubes...
The grey bitumen colour
of the boat from the Cold War
era did not provide the crew
with any benefit. A group of
unshaven men cruised under the
seas in permanent readiness to
launch Russian-made torpedoes
with 200 kilograms of explosives at any moment, targeting up to a distance of ten to
twelve kilometres away... A real
opportunity for them to do that,
thankfully, never occurred.
All buildings of the Tivat
“Overhaul Institute” were
destroyed during construction
of the elegant Hotel Regent
at the heart of the luxurious
Porto Montenegro complex. Also
remaining is the renovated lathe
workshop, with a wooden roof
structure that is somewhat reminiscent of the Venetian Arsenal
Osim stalne postavke,
Muzej organizuje izložbe
tematski povezane s
delatnošću nekadašnjeg
arsenala.
e In addition to the
permanent exhibition, the
museum also organizes
exhibitions that are
linked thematically to the
activities of the former
Arsenal.
that hosts that city’s Biennale. It
houses the permanent exhibition
of the Museum, with exhibits
from all periods of the Tivat
Arsenal: antique diving suits,
a 40-milimetre Bofors cannon,
naval minesweeper covers, models of the ships and submarines
constructed or equipped in Tivat,
and antiquated machinery that
is preserved in memory of the
masterful achievements of the
craftsmen of the Tivat workshop.
In addition to the permanent
exhibition, the museum also
organizes exhibitions that are
linked thematically to the activities of the former Arsenal. There
is a recently opened collection
of ethnographic drawings from
1914 by Leopold Forstner, a
Viennese artist and a friend of
Otto Wagner and Gustav Klimt.
It was added due to the scientific
expedition of the Austro-Hungarian Army unit that sailed
across the Bay to the Balkans, for
which he sketched the landscape
and the people, depicting scenes
of oriental life from Skopje to the
remotest villages of Albania.
The opening of the exhibition saw the Museum also attract
a gathering of the club of former
Yugoslav submariners, who
participated in the construction
and operations of submarines
from Tivat. Today, as citizens of
the countries that emerged out
of the ashes of the former Yugoslavia, they foster a common
tradition because they believe
that their submarines were not
only technical, but also cultural,
achievements, regardless of the
fact that they are weapons. Specifically, in the 1960s, when the
Hero class submarine was built,
there were only ten countries in
the world capable of such a feat
of engineering.
It is impressive that a
Canadian billionaire, whose
company shows such consideration towards the tradition
and heritage of Tivat, had
understanding and facilitating
the construction of the Tivat
Museum. Moreover, the luxurious Porto Montenegro is not a
mirage, but rather an unusual
new blossoming of a strange
marine plant with deep roots...
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