Vaš besplatan primjerak Your complimentary copy

L j e to 2 0 1 3 . B ro j 34 / S ummer 2013 N o 34
Va š b e s p l at a n pr imje r ak Your c ompl im ent a r y c opy
Sadržaj / Contents
22
72
34
76
44
84
58
130
66
154
Međunarodni avio sajam u Parizu
na Le Bourget-u 17- 23. jun 2013............ 10
Paris Air Show 2013.
International Paris Air Show, ................... 13
Le Bourget, 17 to 23 June 2013
The Paris Air Show 2013
U avionu: Bonton.......................................... 16
Za ugodan let
On the plane: Etiquette.............................. 18
For a pleasant flight
Novo u ponudi Montenegro Airlines.... 20
Kupovina tokom leta
New offer of Montenegro Airlines.......... 20
In-flight shopping
Dizajn, priprema za Štampu i oglaŠavanje /
design, prepress and ADs
Montenegro Airlines putovanja Francuska, Provansa.................................... 22
Slatke strane života
Montenegro Airlines travels France, Provence........................................... 26
Sweet side of life
Glavni i odgovorni urednik / Editor-in-chief
Nada Bukilić
Jubilej - 200 godina od rođenja
Petra II Petrovića Njegoša.......................... 34
U slavu sile umstvene
Jubilee - 200 years since the birth of
Petar II Petrović Njegoš.............................. 36
To the glory of wise force
Umjetnik umjetniku.................................... 40
Vječnost je njegovo vrijeme
From one artist to another........................ 41
Eternity is his time
Etno: katuni, ljetnja stočarska naselja....... 44
Život na planini
Ethno: Shepherd’s summer settlements.... 50
Life in the mountains
Nacionalna turistička organizacija
Crne Gore preporučuje.............................. 58
Top 6 ovog ljeta
National Touristic Organisation
of Montenegro presents............................ 60
Top six for the upcoming summer
Naši gradovi – Herceg Novi..................... 66
Svaka skala jedna priča
Our towns – Herceg Novi.......................... 68
Each stair tells a story
Bilješke s juga – morski jež....................... 72
Bodljikavi ekolozi
Notes from the South – The Sea Urchin .. 73
Bristly Ecologists
Galerija – oldtajmeri u Podgorici............ 76
Te divne, divne kreacije…
Gallery – old-timers in Podgorica........... 80
Those beautiful creations...
Trideset godina Nacionalnog
parka Skadarsko jezero ............................. 84
Moćna bajka o nama
30th anniversary of
the National Park Skadar Lake................. 90
A powerful tale of us
Naše najljepše ljubavne priče.................. 99
Đurađ i Lizabet
Our most beautiful love stories............... 102
Đurađ i Lizabet
Pjesnici – Aleksandar Leso Ivanović ..... 106
Nečujan, nalik cvijetu
Poets - Aleksandar Leso Ivanović............ 108
Silent, like a flower
Moda – crnogorska ženska košulja....... 124
Pet vjekova stila
Fashion – Montenegrin women’s blouses.. 118
Five centuries of style
Sport – Danijel Furtula,
bacač diska i kugle........................................ 130
Medalje za lavlje srce
Sport – Danijel Furtula,
discus thrower and shot-putter.............. 134
Bubbles, Kisses
Pričam ti priču................................................. 140
Igra
Let me tell you a story.................................. 146
A game
Slatko od borovnica...................................... 154
Kašičica ljubičaste sreće
Bilberry preserve............................................ 158
A teaspoon of purple luck
Impressum
Inflight Magazine No 34
Ljeto 2013. / Summer 2013
Uređuje i izdaje / Editing and Publishing
Montenegro Airlines, Marketing & Corporative Communications Department,
Mr Aleksandra Gardašević-Slavuljica
Art direktor / Art Director
Vuk Eraković
DIZAJN / DESIGN
Vuk Eraković
tekstovi / TEXTS
Nada Bukilić, Goran Šaban, Ivana Dedić, Jasna Cvetković,
Igor Šuntić, Marta Planinić, Nata Prelević, Mari Sarap,
Tatjana Popović, Đorđije N. Vlahović
Fotografija / Photo
Goran Šaban, Miodrag Marković, Igor Šuntić, Duško Miljanić,
Slaven Vilus, Relja Eraković, Dragan Gačević, Vojo Radonjić
ILUSTRACIJE / ILLUSTRATIONS
Gavrilo Mirotić, Davor Golubović
NASLOVNA STRANA / cover page
Slaven Vilus
LektorI / ProofreaderS
Dr Sanja Šubarić, Paul Turner
Prevodilac / Translator
Mileta Lutovac, Dubravka Jocović
TEHNIČKI UREDNIK / TECHNICAL EDITOR
Gavrilo Mirotić
Oglašavanje / Advertising
Jelena Dragutinović
Tel: +382 (0)20 664 283
E-mail: [email protected]
Štampa / Printed by DPC & Grafotisak Grude
Tiraž / Number of copies: 5000
Montenegro Airlines
Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica,
Montenegro, tel: +382 (0)20 405 501
fax: +382 (0)20 405 528
E-mail: [email protected]
www.montenegroairlines.com
Montenegro Advertising and Production Agency
Stadion Budućnosti, Ul. 19. decembra 13, 81000 Podgorica, Montenegro
tel: +382 (0)20 664 283
[email protected] www.mapa.co.me
ISSN 1800-5462
Pozovite našeg operatera, saopštite mu
podatke sa vaše kartice i kupite kartu
na najjednostavniji nacin!
Garantujemo sigurnost
karticnog placanja.
Montenegro Airlines
Vaš siguran saputnik
Uskoro . . .
www.montenegroairlines.com
Međunarodni avio sajam u Parizu
na Le Bourget-u 17- 23. jun 2013.
Paris Air Show 2013.
Međunarodni Paris Air Show u Le Bourget, najznačajniji je događaj
u vazduhoplovnoj i svemirkoj industriji uopšte. Prvi put se održao još
davne 1909. i od tada je zadržao primat u ovim oblastima.
O
rganizator sajma nastavio je kvalitetan proces koji započeo prije
nekoliko godina, jer je smatrao da
je, dok je ekonomska kriza bila na vrhuncu, bilo važno investirati umjesto povlačiti
finansije, pogotovo imajući u vidu istraživanja koja su izvršena sa izlagačima na sajmu
i posjetiocima. Stoga je 50 miliona Eura
investirano u objekte u izložbenom centru
Le Bourget-a, 4 miliona Eura u renoviranje
350 poslovnih chalet-a kao i određeni broj
dodatnih radova.
U periodu od 5 nedjelja 10.000 ljudi radilo je na pripremanju ovog 50. jubilarnog
događaja i napravilo privremeno selo sa
20.000 stanovnika.
Sa 2.215 izlagača, 340.000 trgovačkih i drugih posjetioca, 200 međunarodnih delegacija i 3.200 novinara, Avio sajam u Parizu
ostaje ključni događaj u industriji vazduhoplovstva i kosmonautike, i namjerava da
ostane na ovoj poziciji i narednih 100 godina. Kao omiljeno sastajalište kompanija iz
industrije vazduhoplovstva i kosmonauti-
ke, Sajam je imao dužnost da još jednom
ispuni očekivanja čitave struke.
Paris Air Show obilježile su brojne predstavljene inovacije u oblasti avio industije,
kao i dva aviona o kojima se već godinama
naveliko priča.
Jedan je najveći avion na svijetu, Airbus
380 koji može da primi 800 putnika. Radi
se o dvopalubnom, širokotrupnom, četveromotornom putničkom avionu. Sa kapacitetom od 525 do 853 putnika i maksimal-
nom težinom od 590 tona, on nosi laskavu
titulu najvećeg putničkog aviona na svijetu.
riva i izbacuje trećinu manje štetnih gasova
u atmosferu, te se može nazvati i „zelenim”.
Drugi je Boeing 787 - DREAMLINER, posljednje čudo američke avio industrije, proizveden od posebnih, kompozitnih materijala koji sam trup aviona čine znatno lakšim
od ostalih putničkih širokotrupnih aviona.
Zahvaljujuči tome za 20% manje troši go-
Avion sa trupom dužine 58 metara i rasponom krila od 60 metara ima dva motora i
maksimalni domet od 15.200 km. U njemu
može da se smjesti između 210 i 250 putnika u dvije putničke klase. Pored zavidnih
tehničkih karakteristika, unaprijeđen je i
sistem snabdijevanja vazduhom u kabini,
a prozori koji su nešto veći u odnosu na
standard imaju ugrađen elektronski zatamnjivač stakla.
Oba ova tipa aviona koriste se isključivo na
prekookeanskim letovima.
International Paris Air Show,
Le Bourget, 17 to 23 June 2013
The Paris Air
Show 2013
International Paris Air Show in Le Bourget, is the most significant event
in aircraft and space industry in general. It was organized for the first
time back in 1909, and has kept priority in those fields ever since.
O
rganizers of the fair have continued with process of improvement, initiated a few years ago, as
they believed that with economic crisis at
its peak, it was important to invest, instead to withdraw finances, especially taking
into account researches conducted with
exhibitors and visitors of the fair. Therefore,
EUR 50 million was invested in objects in
the exhibition centre Le Bourget; and EUR
4 million were invested into renovation of
350 business chalets, and a number of improvements and additional works.
During the five-week period, total of 10,000
people were working on preparation of 50th
jubilee event, and made temporary village for
20.000 inhabitants.
With 2,215 exhibitors, 340,000 trade and
other visitors, 200 international delegations
and 3,200 journalists, the Paris Air Show has
remained the aviation and space industry’s
key, and intends to maintain this position
for the next 100 years. The Fair had a duty
to once again fulfil expectations of an entire
profession, as favourite venue of companies
from airline industry and cosmonautics.
This year’s Paris Air Show will be remembered by numerous presented innovations in
the field of aircraft industry, while the last
year’s show was marked by two planes,
which were talked about for over a year.
One of them is the world’s largest plane,
the Airbus 380, with a capacity of 800 passengers. It is a two-board, widebodied,
four-engine passenger plane. This plane
has flattering title of the world’s largest passenger plane with capacity of 525 to 853
passengers and maximal weight, amounting 590 tons.
Another is the Boeing 787 - DREAMLINER,
the latest miracle of aircraft industry, produced of special, composite materials, which
make the fuselage of the plane significantly
lighter than in other passenger widebodied
planes. Thanks to that, it spends 20% fuel
less and cuts production of harmful gases
for one-third, so it could be called “the green
plane”.
Plane with fuselage 58 metres long, and
wingspan of 60 metres, has two engines
and maximal range of 15.300 kilometres. It
has a capacity of 210 to 250 passengers in
two travel classes. Beside impressive tech-
nical characteristics, air supply system in
the cabin was enhanced, and windows are
a bit larger than standard ones, and they
have installed electronic glass tinting.
Both types of planes are used exclusively
on transoceanic flights.
U avionu: Bonton
Za ugodan let
Ljetnja sezona je počela, a sa njom i sezona putovanja. Koliko god da u njima
uživamo, ponekad se dese neprijatne situacije – dugački redovi, kašnjenja, nervozni
saputnici… ali, sve to nam ne daje za pravo da zaboravimo na pristojnost
Spuštanje naslona
sjedišta
Mogućnost spuštanja naslona je privilegija, a ne pravo. Ukoliko želite da spustite
naslon, okrenite se i pitajte osobu iza sebe
da li je to u redu, ili je bar upozorite da ćete
spustiti naslon. Sve više ljudi sjedi sa laptopovima ili tokom leta objeduje, a vi, spuštanjem naslona u nezgodnom trenutku,
možete izazvati nered. Takođe, trebalo bi
da imate obzira - nije svako raspoložen da
cio let presjedi skučen, dok vi uživate.
Nasloni za ruke
Naslon za ruke ne pripada nikome, tako da
ga morate dijeliti sa osobom pored sebe.
Zato, prije nego što krenete da ga prvi
zauzmete, sjetite se da je bitno i to kome
je potrebniji. Razmislite o tome da ostavite dovoljno prostora da osoba pored Vas
može opustiti ruke.
Razonoda
tokom leta
Kompanijski časopis „Inflight magazine”
koji se nalazi u pregradi ispred sjedišta je
besplatan i možete ga ponijeti sa sobom,
ali novine koje vam stjuardesa eventualno
donese, besplatne su za čitanje, ali ne i za
iznošenje iz aviona. Nakon što ih pročita-
L
etjeti lijepo i spokojno, želja je svih
putnika, ali i cilj svih avio-kompanija. Međutim, putovanje avionom
može biti veoma naporno iskustvo - veliki
broj ljudi na malom prostoru, smanjena
mogućnost kretanja, često bez odgovarajućih sadržaja kojima bi se „prekratilo”
vrijeme, mogu biti razlozi anksioznog ponašanja. Avion, kao prevozno sredstvo,
predstavlja neuobičajeno okruženje i putnici bi trebalo da imaju razumijevanja za
sve njegove specifičnosti. Kao što postoje
osnovna pravila ponašanja u svakodnevnom životu, tako postoje i posebna pravila
u avionu i na aerodromu.
Ukoliko poznajete pravila ponašanja u avionu i ukoliko ih primijenite, putovanje će
svima proći ljepše i bez nepotrebnih neprijatnosti.
Ulazak u avion
Predstavnici kabinskog osoblja će vas prilikom ulaska u avion dočekati s osmjehom
na licu i riječima dobrodošlice. Ljubazno im
uzvratite pozdrav: osmjehom, klimanjem
glave, pozdravom na engleskom ili na
svom jeziku - potpuno je svejedno. Nek let
počne lijepo!
Smiještanje
Prilikom ulaska u avion uvijek se možete
obratiti predstavnicima kabinskog osoblja
za pomoć u pronalaženju mjesta. Ako vam
zatraže boarding kartu to je zato što žele da
pogledaju koje je vaše sjedište, kako bi vam
pomogli da ga lakše i brze pronađete. Boarding karta vam se vraća i trebalo bi da je
čuvate sve do završetka putovanja.
Ručni prtljag
te vratite ih kabinskom osoblju. Besplatan
časopis je uvijek naznačen natpisom „Free
copy” ili „Your complimentary copy”. On se
naziva „Infligt magazine” i tako ga možete
razlikovati od ostale štampe koja se može
naći u kabini.
Pomoć kabinskog
osoblja
Ako vam je potrebna pomoć kabinskog
osoblja ili želite nešto da ih pitate, pozovite
ih uz pomoć tastera koji se nalazi iznad sjedišta. Nemojte dovikivati preko glava drugih putnika koji se možda odmaraju.
Razgovor u
avionu
Kada ste se već smjestili, ukoliko želite da
razgovarate sa svojim saputnikom, radite
to tiho. Ne žele svi da čuju kako ste juče
proveli dan, u to možete biti sigurni! Glasan
razgovor u putničkoj kabini smatra se izuzetno nepristojnim.
Pušenje i alkohol
tokom leta
te biti strogo kažnjeni zbog toga, ili čak i
uhapšeni po slijetanju.
Tokom leta izbegavajte alkohol ili ga pažljivo konzumirajte pošto je njegovo dejstvo
dodatno pojačano na velikim visinama i ne
možete znati kako će vaš organizam reagovati.
Izlazak iz aviona
Svi znamo da izlazak iz aviona traje, kao i da
zaustavljanje aviona ne znači da ćete moći
da izađete istog trenutka. Nikako ne vadite
svoj ručni prtljag i ne pravite red za izlazak,
dok je avion još u pokretu. Osim što to nije
bezbjedno, takođe je i izuzetno nepristojno. Nemojte se gurati, sačekajte da red ljudi ispred vas izađe, pa se tek onda izvucite
iz reda sjedišta – uvijek će vas neko iza vas
rado pustiti i propustiti.
Izdavanje prtljaga
Nakon dugog leta svi želimo da što prije uzmemo svoje torbe i izađemo s aerodroma.
Ali, nemojte sa cijelom porodicom stajati
tik uz pokretnu traku: tako niko drugi neće
moći da vidi svoju torbu i vrlo brzo će se
i svi ostali grupisati uz pokretnu traku, što
otežava i usporava preuzimanje prtljaga.
Na svim letovima pušenje je zabranjeno.
Nemojte pušiti u toaletima aviona. Može-
ljag može da izazove veliku nervozu kod
Vas, ali i kod drugih. Nemojte nositi torbu
koja je nepropisane veličine. Sve avio-kompanije imaju jasno definisane veličine prtljaga, istaknute na njihovim web sajtovima.
U slučaju Montenegro Airlinesa u putničku
kabinu možete unijeti jedan komad nepredatog prtljaga, maksimalne težine do
10 kg, a čiji zbir dimenzija (uključujući točkove, ručke i spoljne džepove) ne prelazi
115 cm (npr. 55x40x20 cm). Svima nam se
desilo da čekamo, i čekamo iza nekoga ko
pokušava svoju torbu da ugura u odjeljak
za ručni prtljag. Takve torbe treba čekirati, a
ne nositi sa sobom. Ručni prtljag koji želite
imati uz sebe, uvijek držite ispod sjedišta
pred vama, ne pored, jer ćete njime, nenamjerno, ali sigurno, gurnuti osobu koja
sjedi pored.
Ukoliko je neadekvatne veličine, ručni prt16
17
Entertainment
during the
flight
On the plane: Etiquette
For a pleasant
flight
The summer season has started, and the travelling season along with it. As much as we
enjoy it, unpleasant situations sometimes happen – long queues, running late, nervous
fellow-travelers...but nothing of that gives us the right to forget about politeness.
T
o fly nicely and peacefully is the wish
of all passengers and airline companies. However, travelling by plane can
be a very exhausting experience, with a large
number of people in a small space, a lack of
space for movement, often without enough
distractions to “kill” time, can all be reasons for
nervous behavior. The plane, as a means of
transport, presents an unusual environment
and passengers should have an understanding of all its peculiarities. Just as there are
basic rules of behavior in everyday life, there
are also special rules on the plane and at the
airport.
If you know rules of behavior on the plane,
and if you apply them, travelling will pass
more pleasantly and without unnecessary
inconveniences.
Boarding
the plane
Members of the cabin crew will meet you at
the entrance with a smile on their faces and
words of welcome. Return the greeting politely: with a smile, nodding your head, and
a greeting in English or your mother tongue
– it is does not matter. Let the flight begin nicely!
18
Accommodation
On boarding the plane you can always ask
members of the cabin crew to help you find
your seat. If they ask for your boarding card, it
is because they want to know which number
is your seat, in order to help you find it more
easily. The boarding card will be returned to
you and you should keep it till the end of
your journey.
Hand luggage
Hand luggage can be source of great nervousness both for you, and for others, if it is of
inappropriate size. Do not carry a bag of irregular size. All airline companies have clearly
defined luggage sizes noted on their web
sites. In the case of Montenegro Airlines, you
can carry in one piece of luggage into the passenger cabin, with a maximum weight of up
to 10 kilos, and with a total dimension (including the wheels, handles and outer pockets)
that does not exceed a limit of 115 centimeters (for example, 55x40x20). It has happened
to all of us to find ourselves waiting endlessly
behind someone who was trying to squeeze
his bag into one of the hand bins. Such large bags should be checked in, not carried
along with you. The hand luggage you want
to have with you, always keep below the seat
in front of you, and not next to you, because
you will surely, though unintentionally, push
it into the person sitting next to you.
The company magazine “In-flight”, which is in
the compartment in front of your seat, is free
and you can take it; however, the newspapers a stewardess brings you, are free for reading, but not for taking out of the plane. The
free magazine is always marked with the sign
“Free copy” of “Your complimentary copy”. It
is called “In-flight magazine” and thus you can
differentiate it from other newspapers and
magazines in the cabin.
Help of the
cabin crew
If you need help of the cabin crew, or you
want to ask something, call them with the
push-button placed above the seat. Do not
yell over other passengers’ heads, since they
might be resting or sleeping.
Talking on
the plane
Getting off
the plane
Once you have settled down, if you want to
talk to your fellow-passenger, do it quietly.
Not everyone wants to hear how you spent
your day, you can be sure of that! Loud conversation in the passenger cabin is considered very impolite.
We all know that getting off the plane can
take a little time, as well as that the final stopping of the plane does not mean that you will
be able to get out immediately. By no means
take out your hand luggage or line up for the
exit while the plane is still moving. Not only is
it unsafe, but it is also extremely impolite. Do
not push around, wait for the line of people
in front of you to get off, and only then get
out of your row of seats – there will always
be someone behind you who will gladly let
you pass.
Smoking and
alcohol during
the flight
Smoking is prohibited on all flights. Do not
smoke in the plane toilets. You can be strictly
punished because of that, or even arrested
on landing.
Avoid alcohol during the flight, or consume it
carefully, since its effect is intensified by altitude and you cannot know how your organism
will react to it.
Luggage claim
After a long flight we all want to claim our
bags as soon as possible, and get out of the
airport. However, please do not stand with
your entire family in front of the conveyor
belt: that way no one will be able to spot their
bags, and soon everyone else will group around too, which would complicate and slow
down the whole process.
Lowering the
back of the seat
The possibility of lowering the back of your
seat is a privilege, not a right. If you want to
lower your seat back, turn around and ask the
person sitting behind you if that is alright, or
at least warn him/her that you wish to lower
the back of the seat. More and more people
are sitting with their laptops, or eating during
the flight, and by lowering the back of the
seat at the wrong moment, you can cause a
mess. Also, you should be considerate – not
everyone is willing to spend the entire flight
cramped up while you are stretching out relaxing.
Arm rests
Arm rest does not belong to anyone, so you
have to share it with the person sitting next
to you. Therefore, before you go and take the
arm rest first, remember that it is important
who needs it more. Consider leaving enough
space, so that the person next to you can relax their arms as well.
19
Novo u ponudi Montenegro Airlines
Kupovina tokom leta
M
ontenegro Airlines je sa početkom ljetnje sezone upotpunio
svoju ponudu i proširio lepezu
usluga ponudivši svojim putnicima dodatni inflight servis. Novi servis namijenjen je putnicima – „duty-free” prodaja u
avionima.
Montenegro Airlines se pobrinuo da tokom leta putnici mogu izabrati nešto iz raznovrsnog asortimana duty free robe koja
je od nedavno u ponudi.
Na svim međunarodnim letovima Montenegro Airlines putnici imaju mogućnost
kupovine duty free robe po izuzetno atraktivnim cijenama. U avionima nacionalne
avio-kompanije mogu se kupiti poznati
brendovi: parfema, Swarovski nakit, cigarete, piće i još mnogi artikli predstavljeni
u ponudi. Kada je riječ o cijenama, one su
konkuretne u odnosu na cijene u evropskim free shopovima.
Osim direktne kupovine u avionima, putnicima je omoguceno da se unaprijed odlu-
ce za neki od proizvoda. Na kompanijskom
veb sajtu www.montenegroairlines.
com nalazi se katalog cjelokupnog asortimana. Nakon odabira proizvoda iz kataloga, potrebno je popuniti on-line obrazac
kojim se, jednostavnim popunjavanjem i
slanjem, predmeti naruče prije leta.
Narudžbenicu je potrebno poslati najkasnije 48 sati prije leta, i željeni prozivod će Vam
uručiti član kabinskog osoblja tokom leta
za koji ste kupili kartu.
Duty free
2013
Uštedite vrijeme , uštedite novac
kupujte tokom Vašeg leta....
Inflight shopping
Save time, save money
make the best of in-flight shopping
New offer of Montenegro Airlines
In-flight shopping
M
ontenegro Airlines has completed its offer at the beginning of
the summer season, and expanded its range of services by offering its passengers additional in-flight service. New
service is created for passengers – “dutyfree” sale on planes.
Montenegro Airlines made sure to enable
passengers choose something from diverse assortment of duty free goods, which
have been newly offered.
Passengers have an option to shop duty
20
free goods at extremely attractive prices in
all international flights of Montenegro Airlines. Famous brands of perfumes, Swarovski jewelry, cigarettes, beverage and many
more products presented in the offer can
be bought on planes of the national airline
company. When it comes to prices, they
are competitive with those in the European free shops.
Besides direct shopping on planes, passengers can opt for any of the products beforehand. Catalogue of entire assortment can
be found on the company’s web site www.
montenegroairlines.com. After you choose
the product from the catalogue, you need
to fill in an online form, by which you order
items before the flight, simply filling it in
and sending it to us.
Order form should be sent no later than 48
hours before the flight, and desired product will be handed in to you by a member
of the cabin crew during the flight you bought the ticket for.
www.montenegroairlines.com
21
U
svemu i o svemu prvi utisci su najvažniji i najduže se pamte. Uslovi u
kojima se nešto doživljava po prvi
put takođe su važni. Moj prvi susret sa Provansom bio je rezultat neočekivanog spleta okolnosti: zbog administrativne greške
nijesam mogao napustiti brod i otići avionom kući, pa sam ostao u Španiji. Time sam
dobio nekoliko dana na raspolaganje i iskoristio sam ih za krstarenje do Provanse. Sve
sljedeće posjete Provansi slatke su nadogradnje ovog prvog, očaravajućeg susreta.
Montenegro Airlines putovanja – Francuska, Provansa
Slatke strane života
Tekst i fotografija: Goran Šaban
Najčešće se putuje u Provansu sredinom
ili krajem juna, kad cvjeta lavanda – zaštitni znak Provanse. Ali, imajte u vidu ono
što se obično zanemaruje – Francuzi jako
vole svoje primorje i Provansu i većina njih
odmor provodi baš tu. Zbog toga bih preporučio da, ipak, u Provansu odete s jeseni,
kada je možete doživjeti u manjoj gužvi,
ličnije i neposrednije. Propustićete lavandu,
ali zapanjujući spektar boja dočekaće vas i
u septembru i u bilo kojem dobu godine.
Nebrojeni brežuljci nanizani jedan za drugim, sa svojim vinogradima i idiličnim selima, blaga klima i bogata tradicija, hrana po
ukusu bogova, bogata istorija i kultura vina,
šarm uređene i uredne oblasti, neskriveni
ponos mještana i neusiljena komunikacija svih zaljubljenika u Provansu, razbudiće
u vama i najuspavaniji atom romantike,
pokrenuće vas ka jačoj ili novoj ljubavi, rasplamsaće u vama želju da svim čulima i u
svakom momentu osjećate i slavite sve slatke strane života! Provansa je uistinu idilična
i, čini se, nigdje drugo ljubav i radost ne
mogu obilježiti čovjeka kao ovdje! Doduše,
i sva čula naći će svoja bogata zadovoljenja!
Da biste zaista uživali u svemu, morate voljeti hranu i piće, morate sa poštovanjem
gledati na djela ljudskih ruku i lokalnih zanata, i pri tome bilo bi dobro da preferirate
samostalni izbor maršruta ili da bar budete
fleksibilni kada pristanete na pravce i odluke turističkih vodiča. Jer obećaće vam jedno, a odvešće vas na drugo mjesto, s tim što
ćete i tamo biti toliko očarani da ćete silom
ljepote koju vidite zaboraviti gdje ste ono
krenuli!
Provansa je najljepši dio Francuske, a najbolje ju je obići u junu, kada cvjeta lavanda,
njen zaštitni znak! No, bilo kad da odete u Provansu, neće vam faliti boja i mirisa i lako
ćete se uvjeriti zašto je Francuzi obožavaju i zašto baš tamo najčešće provode odmor
22
Zanimljivi ostaci nekadašnjih raskošnih
rimskih zdanja, bistroi i seoski kafei, brojne
vinarije i raskošna ponuda vina, a onda i
blještavilo i luksuz francuske rivijere... – sve
to zajedno jeste jedinstvena i neponovljiva
Provansa.
Provansa je, u stvari, stari naziv za dio
Francuske koji se proteže od francuskih
Alpa na sjeveru do francuske rivijere na
Sredozemnom moru, na istoku se graniči sa Italijom, a na zapadu mu je granica
rijeka Rona. Provansa, zvanično nazvana
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, jeste oblast
koju ne posjećujete na dan-dva ili pet –
potrebno je vrijeme da biste što više doživjeli i u svemu uživali. No, koliko god vremena da imate na raspolaganju, nemojte
trčati i pokušavati da vidite baš sve. Izaberite nekoliko stvari (pa dođite ponovo)
i pošteno zadovoljite svoja čula. Svuda će
vas pratiti joie de vivre - veselo uživanje u
životu i razdraganost duha), pa im se u
potpunosti i prepustite! Uostalom, sigurno ste gledali film Francuski poljubac – ma
ko vas ljubio i ma kakav poljubac bio, nigdje drugo ne bi imao takvu snagu i efekat
kao u Provansi!
Uz Provansu se, poput sinonima, uklapaju
riječi: ljepota, raskoš, idila, čarobnost, bajkovitost, ljubav, radost, igra, sloboda... Ali, za
Provansu su vezani i: Sezan, Van Gog, Grof
Montekristo, Papa..., Nica, Kan, Avinjon,
Marsej..., lavanda, vino, Cote D’ Azure, Monako..., Nostradamus..., Zidan..., Ratatuli...
Bez obzira na to kojoj vrsti putnika pripadali, Provansa je oblast kojoj ćete se vraćati
i u kojoj ćete uvijek sticati nove, drugačije
utiske. Baš bih volio da vidim onoga kome
se Provansa ne može svidjeti.
Avinjon
Avinjoj je sagrađen kao tvrđava da bi
se lakše branio od najezde pljačkaša i
osvajača. Kada zađete unutar zidina, zaboravite da je rijeka Rona baš tu ispred vrata tvrđave, kao i čuveni Pont d’Avignon,
most iz srednjeg vijeka. Pont Saint-Bénezet, kako mu je pravo ime, jeste most koji
su poplave rušile više puta. Nakon što je i
obnavljan nekoliko puta, sada je ostao „na
pola” i tako prepolovljen svjedoči o nekim
davnim zaboravljenim vremenima. A kad
ste na mostu ili na drugoj obali Rone, ne
možete ni da pretpostavite da se unutar
avinjonskih zidina kriju lavirinti kamenih
ulica, arhitektonska čuda, gastronomski
užici i, kako rekosmo, joie de vivre! Zato je
vrlo teško napraviti fotografije Avinjona
na kojima bi se moglo vidjeti što više…
Pont Saint-Bénezet nosi ime sveštenika
koji je dobio naredbu „odozgo, s neba”
da sagradi most! Iako su svi mislili da je
sveštenik lud, nakon osam godina most
je završen i pušten u upotrebu 1185. godine. Korišćen je skoro 500 godina. No,
skeptici su bili u pravu: nesavladive struje
Rone i vjetrovi rušili su drveni, a onda i kameni most. Nakon katastrofalne poplave
1668. godine od dvadeset i dva luka na
mostu, ostala su samo četiri - da svjedoče o jednom prošlom vremenu i da budu
turistička atrakcija. Ispod lukova, od kojih
je najširi imao 35 metara, što predstavlja i
najširi lûk u rimskoj mostogradnji, bile su
kafane gdje se igralo, pjevalo i pilo! I jelo,
naravno. Ovaj most je i tema poznate dječije pjesme Sur le Pont d’Avignon, koja i
opisuje šta se dešavalo na mostu i ispod
njega.
Papska
rezidencija
Glavna atrakcija ovog, pomalo mističnog
grada jeste Papska palata. Možemo s pravom reći da su njena gradnja i avinjonsko
papstvo razlog za procvat ovog mjesta i
regije uopšte. Period od 1305. do 1378.
godine, koji se računa kao avinjonsko papstvo, jeste vrijeme kada je sjedište katoličke
crkve bilo baš tu. Sedam papa je vladalo iz
Avinjona i u tom periodu crkva je bila na vrhuncu svoje moći, sa papom Clementom
VII (1342/1352). On je kupio grad od kraljice
Jeanne od Napulja, za 80.000 zlatnih florina.
Svaki od papa je dograđivao palatu, a baš
Clement VII je i završio. Uz palatu razvijao
se i grad, nicali su gotički spomenici, zidale
nove i dograđivale stare crkve sa manastirima i samostanima. Od nekadašnjeg sjaja
Papske palate ostale su freske, lavirinti hodnika i neobičnih prostorija koje su služile za
skrivanje blaga. Zbuniće vas mala i neobična spavaća soba pape – a onda ćete čuti
da je bila tolika iz sigurnosnih razloga. Karakteristično za taj period jeste da je crkva
pod uticajem fransuskog dvora počela da
poprima i dvorski životni stil, i da sama uživa u pogodnostima koje joj je donosio veliki novac. Avinjon je do dolaska pape imao
oko šest hiljada stanovnika, što je tada bilo
mnogo. Ali, po papinom dolasku, taj broj
dostiže nevjerovatnih šezdeset hiljada stanovnika, što je Avinjon učinilo tada najvećim gradom u Evropi. Zasigurno, učinilo ga
je i kosmopolitskim…
23
pejzaži i fascinantni karakter Provanse
inspirisali su i mnoge druge velike filmove. Ima li boljeg načina da se upoznate sa
nekim dijelom svijeta od filma koji je snimljen tamo? Zato se sigurno sjećate Odmora Mr. Beana, ili nekih starijih ostvarenja
– I Bog stvori ženu, Pričajmo o kiši, Taxi, Dobra godina, Francuska veza, već pomenuti
Francuski poljubac...
Kad smo već kod filma, ako nijeste znali,
jedan od prvih filmova snimljen je i prikazan upravo u Provansi! Zato ona ima i
posebno mjesto u istoriji pokretnih slika.
Naime, braća Limijer su nijemi film Ulazak
voza u stanicu snimili u mjestu Ciotat, na
provansalskoj obali. Prije zvanične premijere u Parizu 28. decembra 1895. godine,
koja je izazvala senzaciju, prikazan je u
Eden bioskopu, još u septembru. Eden
bioskop jedini je od onih prvih bioskopa,
i još uvijek radi.
Papska palata i sve u Avinjonu pod zaštitom je Uneska. Danas je Avinjon grad
u kojem se mirno živi: grad studenata,
turista i umjetnika svih vrsta. Place de
l’Horloge ili Trg Sata jeste centralni trg
Avinjona i predstavlja dušu grada. Avinjonski festival u julu, na kojem učestvuju
umjetnici iz čitavog svijeta, jedna je od
najpoznatijih kulturnih manifestacija u
Francuskoj.
Sezan, Van Gog
i drugi…
Provansalski pejzaž i njegove jarke i pastelne boje u poljima lavande i suncokreta, razigrano zelenilo vinograda i maslinjaka i sve
nijanse plavog mora, inspirisali su i arhitekturu, pa se ove boje mogu vidjeti svuda – po
kućama, zgradama, u kamenim ulicama...
Umjetnici su voljeli Provansu od pamtivijeka. Crteži bizona, konja, i drugih životinja, nastali i 20.000 godina p. n. e., mogu se vidjeti
u pećinama blizu Marseja. U XIX i XX vijeku
brojni poznati slikari dolazili su u Provansu,
privučeni koloritom, klimom i čistim, jasnim
svjetlom. Maestral duva i odnosi prašinu iz
Montenegro Airlines leti više puta sedmično za Pariz:
Podgorica–Pariz–Podgorica, utorkom, četvrtkom, petkom, subotom i nedjeljom;
Tivat–Pariz–Tivat, subotom i nedjeljom.
Za više informacija, posjetite naš website www.montenegroairlines.com ili pozovite naš call centar na19804.
vazduha, povećavajući vidljivost. Iz istih razloga često ćete vidjeti i fotografe kako po
ovim predjelima traže najljepše motive.
Slikari koji su ovjekovječili Provansu brojni su: Pol Sezan, Van Gog, August Renoar,
Henri Matis, Pablo Pikaso, Klod Mone…
Van Gog je najveću slavu stekao djelima
inspirisanim upravo ovim predjelima:
Dvanaest suncokreta, Zvjedana noć iznad
rijeke Rone, Autoportret… Živio je u Arlu i
St. Remiu, dok je Sezan većinu svog života proveo u Aix-en-Proveneceu. Uzvišenje
Sainte Victoire bilo je njegova inspiracija. I
Pablo Pikaso je godinama posjećivao Cote
d’Azur, a tu se i nastanio 1946. godine...
Dođete li u Provansu, ne smijete preskočiti
St. Remi – u njemu ćete saznati detalje o
životu Van Goga i vidjeti kuću u kojoj se rodio Nostradamus, apotekar i vidovnjak čija
su Proročanstva prevedena na sve svjetske
jezike. I danas se raspravlja o tome da li je
stvarno bio u stanju proricati budućnost ili
su se vremenom njegovim riječima u prevodima dodavale one koje će „dokazati” tu
sposobnost…
Reci mi to
filmom…
Druga po veličini trgovačka luka u Evropi
jeste Marsej - nakon Roterdama. Marsej je
zbilja posebna priča: iako se umnogome razlikuje od Kana i Nice, ipak se uklapa u sliku
Provanse.
Chateau d’If jeste tvrđava koja se nalazi
na istoimenom ostrvu nadomak Marseja
i mjesto je radnje čuvenog romana Grof
Montekristo Aleksandra Dime. Roman i
filmovi koji su snimani po njegovim motivima postali su vrlo slavni. Nevjerovatni
Hrana, vino
i ostale
provansalije
Jug Francuske bogat je lijepom prirodom,
pejzažima koji oduzimaju dah, prijatne je
klime i plodne zemlje. Nije onda čudno što
ovaj rajski vrt ima bogatu kuhinju i izuzetan
izbor vina očaravajućeg ukusa i neponovljive arome. Posjetiti Provansu, a ne prepustiti
se uživanju u najširoj mogućoj paleti ukusa
ove jedinstvene regije, bio bi ne samo grijeh
nego i zločin prema sebi samom!
Vina se ovdje proizvode, kako kažu, duže
od 2 300 godina. No, iako su vina ove regije
punila papske i dvorske podrume širom Evrope, nije uvijek bilo tako. Kad su Rimljani,
dobri poznavaoci vina, došli u Provansu, bili
su razočarani kvalitetom njenog vina. Rimski pjesnik Marcijal je po dolasku u Marsej
rekao da je tamošnje vino loš i skup otrov.
Ali, danas se neka od najljepših i najcjenjenijih rose i crnih vina proizvode baš ovdje.
Pustite da vas vodi lični impuls i za vinima
krenite iz Châteauneuf-du-Pape, jedne od
najpoznatijih vinskih regija u svijetu, južno
od Orangea...
O hrani i receptima mogli bi da se pišu romani. Činjenica je da je Provansa čuvena
po hrani. Restorana i bistroa ima na svakom
ćošku i za svačiji džep. Za šta god se odluči-
Provansalije
Da biste spremni otišli na put i kakše se uklopili u joie de vivre, naučite poneki
provansalski izraz:
tomettes – tradicionalne podne pločice od terakote;
boćanje (ovo nam bar nije strano) – igra iz La Ciotata, a u Francuskoj je igra
sedamnaest miliona ljudi;
cigale – (cvrčci) simbol su (i glas) Provanse; čuju se od juna do septembra; samo
mužjaci ’pjevaju’; ’pjevanje’ zavisi od vanjske temperature i zato ih ne možete
čuti poslije kiše ili uveče;
astis – liker sa aromom anisa, pije se kao aperitiv; u Marseju se pije rashlađen i
razrijeđen vodom, kao osvježenje u vrelim danima;
bories – kućice od suvog kamena, različite namjene; neke potiču još iz XIII vijeka; prvobitno štale za stoku, ostave za usjeve..., postale su skloništa za pastire,
pa vikendice; nedaleko od sela Gordes nalazi se selo Bories, zaštićeno kao istorijski spomenik;
mas – tradicionalna seoska kuća Provanse; pravouglog oblika, kuća uvijek ’gleda’ ka jugu jer maestral duva sa sjevera; zbog maestrala kuće su tradicionalno
bez prozora na sjevernoj strani, dok su ostali prozori uski da bi se zaštitila unutrašnjost kuće od prevelike vrućine ili hladnoće;
santons – male, rukom oslikane terakota figure, koje dočaravaju život Provanse;
aioli – namaz od bijelog luka i maslinovog ulja;
provençal (jezik) – provansalski dijalekt, karakterističan za ovo područje;
fougasse – tradicionalna pogača Provanse; moderne verzije imaju ukus maslina i začinskog bilja;
ratatouille – paprikaš od povrća, služi se kao dodatak ili glavno jelo, a nastao
je u Nici;
la pissaladière – jelo koje podsjeća na pizzu, napravljeno je od tijesta, ali nikada nema preliv od paradajza; nadijeva se sa dosta proprženog luka i paštetom
od sardina i inćuna, kao i crnim maslinama, obično iz Nice;
French Truffles – tartufi, podzemne gljive; nekad su se koristile svinje za iskopavanje tartufa, ali pošto i same vole da ih jedu, zamijenjene su psima; vrijeme
vađenja tartufa je od novembra do marta; najtraženiji je Perigord tartuf – crni
dijamant među gljivama…;
Grasse – rodno mjesto parfema; u ovom malom mjestu smještena su tri najpoznatija proizvođača parfema: Galimard, Fragonard i Moulinard; legenda kaže da
je selo u kome se na sve strane štavila koža, postalo slavno kada je neki kožar da
bi smanjio neprijatni miris rukavica za jednu groficu, u njih ukapao neka od eteričnih ulja i time zavrijedio grofičinu zahvalnost; iz te ideje o mirišljavim rukavicama razvila se ideja o proizvodnji parfema; gradić ima na desetine parfimerija
i proizvodi petinu svih francuskih parfema.
li, bilo skupo ili jeftino, kvalitet ne gine. Ako
ste od onih pravih gurmana koji sem što
vole dobar zalogaj, vole i kuvati, onda ćete
se u Provansi naučiti pravom majstorstvu!
Naime, na „svakom ćošku” mogu se pohađati kulinarske škole, tj. kursevi, a s tim se ne
mogu upoređivati prepisani recepti ili opisi
po časopisima. Na licu mjesta kuvaš i učiš,
a onda u slast pojedeš pripremljeno jelo i
nema više načina da ikad zaboraviš kako se
to čudo od kužine priprema. Na tim istim
„ćoškovima” možete degustirati različita vina
i probati raznovrsne lokalne sireve…
Dakle, za kompletan doživljaj francuskog
juga, za pravi odmor i revitalizaciju svih vaših
nerava, moždanih vijuga, srčanih komora,
mišića, svijesti i savjesti, za vrhunski hedonizam svake vrste, potrebno je da odete u
Provansu – da odete sa nekim ko umije da
jede, ko voli da pije, smije da pleše i zna da
slika ili bar fotografiše..., sa nekim ko se ne
boji poljubiti vas! Po sto puta! Pod suncem
Provanse, u mirisu lavande…
25
Montenegro Airlines
travels – France,
Provence
Sweet
side of
life
Text and photography: Goran Šaban
Provence is the most beautiful part
of France, and it is best to visit it
in June, when you can see its trade
mark lavender blossoms! Whenever
you go to Provence, an abundance
of colours and scents will welcome
you, and you will easily understand
why many French people adore it
and spend their holidays there.
F
irst impressions are the most important and are always remembered. The conditions under which
something is experienced for the first
time are also important. My first meeting
with Provence was result of unexpected
course of events: Due to an administrative mistake, I could not leave my ship
and take the plane home, so I had to
stay in Spain. Thus, I got few spare days,
and used them for a cruise to Provence.
Each future visit to Provence was just
an upgrade of this the first, enchanting
meeting.
26
People most commonly travel to Provence at the middle or end of June, when the
lavender, the trademark of Provence, blossoms. However, you should bear in mind a
fact usually neglected – the French people
love Provence and its coast very much, and
thus spend their vacation there. For that reason, I would recommend a visit to Provence in the autumn, when you can experience it more personally and directly, and less
crowded. You will miss the lavender though, but an amazing spectrum of colors
will also welcome you in September, just
as in any other part of the year. Countless
hills, one after another, with vineyards and
idyllic villages, a mild climate and rich tradition, food worthy of the gods, a rich history
and the wine culture, the charm of a well
arranged and neat area, the undisguised
pride of the local inhabitants and the spontaneous communication between all those
in Provence, will awaken in you even the
most dormant atom of romanticism. It will
push you into a more passionate or new
love, flare up desire, which you will feel
with all your senses and in every moment
celebrate the sweet side of life! Provence
is truly idyllic and it seems as though love
and joy could nowhere mark a person as
they can here! Indeed, all the senses will
find their full satisfaction here! I promise
you that!
watched the film “French Kiss” – no matter
who kisses you, and no matter what the
kiss is like, it could never be as passionate
and effective as in Provence!
In order to truly enjoy everything, you must
love food and drink, you have to respect
the work of human hands, which numerous local crafts will convince you of, and
it would be good if you preferred an independent choice of route, or at least, more
flexible than when you accept the routes
and decisions of tourist guides. They will
promise you one thing, but take you to
some place else. However, you will be so
enchanted by the force of beauty that you
will forget what your initial destination was
at first!
Words such as: beauty, splendor, idyllic,
magic, fairy tale, love, joy, game, freedom,
all fit Provence as its synonyms. But other
things are also associated with Provence:
Cezanne, Van Gogh, The Count of Monte
Cristo, the Pope...Nice, Cannes, Avignon,
Marseille...lavender, wine, Cote D’Azure,
Monaco... Nostradamus... Zidane... Ratatuille... Regardless of the type of traveller you
are, Provence is area that you will always
come back to and acquire new and different impressions. I would truly like to meet
the person that could dislike Provence.
The interesting remains of former luxurious Roman buildings, bars and village cafes,
countless wine cellars and an opulent selection of wines, the glare and luxury of the
French Riviera... It is all part of the unique
and inimitable Provence.
Avignon
Provence is actually the old name for
the part of France that extends from the
French Alps in the north, to the French
Riviera on the Mediterranean Sea; it borders with Italy to the East, and the Rhone River in the West. It is officially called
Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur. Provence is
an area that you do not visit for a day or
two, or even five, because it takes time to
experience as many things as possible,
and enjoy them all. However, no matter
how much time you have, do not run and
try to see everything there is to see. Choose several things (then come again) and
satisfy your senses sufficiently. You will be
followed by Joie de vivre (enjoying life and
hilarity of the spirit), and surrender yourself to it completely! After all, you surely
Avignon was built as a fortress used for
defense against invasion by robbers and
conquerors. When you enter the walls,
you completely forget that the Rhone River is just in front of the entrance, as well
as the famous “Pont d’Avignon”, the medieval bridge. Pont Saint-Benezet, which
is its exact name, has been repeatedly
knocked down by floods. After several rebuilds, the bridge was only half finished,
and thus bisected, left as witness of some
ancient, forgotten times. And when you
are on the bridge or on the other bank
of the Rhone, you cannot possibly imagine that inside the walls of Avignon hide
a labyrinth of streets paved with stones,
architectural miracles, gastronomic pleasures, and as we have already mentioned,
Joie de vivre! That is why it is so difficult to
take photos of Avignon that would capture all of this.
Pont Saint-Benezet is named after the
priest who received order from “heaven”
to build the bridge! Although everyone
thought that the priest was crazy, the
bridge was finished after eight years and
put into use in 1185. It has been used for
almost 500 years. However, the skeptics
were right: insurmountable currencies
of Rhone River and winds repeatedly
destroyed first the wooden, and then
the stone bridge, which could not resist.
The bridge had twenty two arches, out of
which only four survived the catastrophic
flood in 1668. The remaining arches are
witnesses of ancient times and a tourist
attraction today. The widest arch was 35
meters long, which is also the widest arch
in any Roman bridge construction. There
were a lot of cafes below the arches, where people dance, sing and drink! And eat,
of course. This bridge is also the topic of
the famous nursery rhyme “Sur le Pont
d’Avignon”, which describes events on
the bridge and below it.
The Pope’s
residence
The main attraction of this, a mystical
town, is the Pope’s palace. We can justifiably say that its construction and the
Avignon pontificate were the reasons
for the flourishing of this place and the
entire region. The period from 1305 to
1378, usually referred to as the Avignon
pontificate, is the time when the seat of
the Catholic Church was located here.
Seven Popes ruled from Avignon, and
in that period the Church reached the
peak of its power, with Pope Clement VII
(1342-1352). He bought the town from
the Queen Jeanne from Napoli, for a price
of 80.000 golden florins. Each following
Pope added something to the construction of the palace and Clement VII
finished it completely. Together
27
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you can call our call centre on 19804.
with the palace, the town also developed, and gothic monuments were built,
new churches constructed and the old
reconstructed, with monasteries and
abbeys. Frescoes, labyrinths of corridors
and unusual rooms, which were used
for hiding treasure, still remain from the
former splendor of the Pope’s palace. You
will be confused by the small and unusual Pope’s bedroom – and then you will
learn that it was that small due to safety
reasons. What is characteristic of that
period is that the Church, influenced by
the French court, began to adopt a court
lifestyle, and enjoy all the benefits that
money could bring. Avignon had about
6.000 inhabitants until the Pope’s arrival,
which was a lot for that time. However, after the Pope came, that number grew to
an unbelievable 60.000, which made Avignon the largest European town of that
time. It surely must have made it cosmopolitan.
The Pope’s palace and everything else in
Avignon is protected by UNESCO. Today,
Avignon is a peaceful town; it is a town
of students, tourists and artists of all kinds. Place de l’Horloge or the Clock Square
is the central square in Avignon, and the
very soul of the town. The Avignon festival in July is one of the most famous cul-
tural events in France, attended by artists
from all over the world.
Cezanne, Van
Gogh and
others...
The Provencal landscape and its bright and
pastel colors in sunflower and lavender fields, the playful greenery of vineyards and
olive-groves, and all shades of the blue sea
inspired the architecture, so these colors
can be seen on houses, buildings, paved
streets... Artists have always loved Provence. Drawings of buffalos, horses and other
animals, made 20.000 years before Christ,
can still be seen in caves near Marseille. Numerous famous painters came to Provence
in the 19th and 20th centuries, attracted by
the colors, climate, and clear, bright light.
The Mistral blows and takes away the dust
from the air, thus increasing visibility. That
is why you can often see photographers
searching for the most beautiful images in
this area.
The painters that eternalized Provence
are numerous: Paul Cezanne, Van Gogh,
Auguste Renoir, Henri Matisse, Pablo Pi-
casso, Claude Monet... Van Gogh achieved his greatest glory with works inspired by these areas: Twelve Sunflowers,
Starry Night Over the Rhone, Self-portrait...
He lived in Arl and Saint Remiu, while
Cezanne spent most of his life in Aix-enProvenece. Mount Sainte Victorie was his
inspiration. Pablo Picasso also visited the
Cote d’Azur for years, and here he stayed
to live from 1946...
If you come to Provence, you must not
skip Saint Remi. Besides details of Van
Gogh’s life, you will see the house where
Nostradamus, the pharmacist and clairvoyant, was born, whose Prophecies have
been translated into every language in
the world. It is matter of dispute, even
today, whether his ability to predict the
future was real, or meaning was added to
his words, through years of translations,
in order to “prove” his ability.
Tell me that
with a film...
After Rotterdam, the second largest port
in Europe is Marseille. Marseille is indeed, a
special story: although it immensely differs
from Cannes and Nice, it fits in the image of
Provence anyway.
Chateau d’If is a fortress situated on an
island near Marseille of the same name,
is where famous novel by Alexandre Dumas, “The Count of Monte Cristo”, was
set. Novel and the films based on it have
become very popular. The unbelievable
landscapes and fascinating character
of Provence inspired many other great
films. Is there any better way to meet a
certain part of the world, than to watch
a film made there? That is why you surely,
must remember Vacation by Mr.Bean, or
some older films: And God Created Woman, Let’s Talk About the Rain, Taxi, Good
Year, French Connection, and the already
mentioned, French Kiss.
Speaking of film, let me tell you that one
of the first films ever made, was recorded
and presented in Provence! That is why
Provence holds a special place in the
history of motion pictures. Namely, the
Lumiere brothers recorded the silent film
Arrival of a Train at la Ciotat Station, on the
Provencal coast. Before its official premiere in Paris, on 28 December 1895, which
caused a sensation, the film was presented in Eden Theatre Cinema in September. Eden Theatre Cinema is one of the
first ever cinemas, and is still working.
Food, wine and
other things
in Provence
The South of France is rich in beautiful nature, breath-taking landscapes, pleasant
climate and fertile land. It is no wonder
that this Garden of Eden has such rich cuisine and exquisite choice of wines, with
magic taste and unforgettable aroma. To
visit Provence, and not indulge in the wide
spectrum of tastes of this unique region,
would be not only a sin, but also a crime!
It is said that wine has been produced for
over 2.300 years. However, although wine
from this region filled the cellars of the
Pope’s palaces and courts all around Europe,
it was not always the case. When the Romans, connoisseurs of wine, arrived in Provence, they were disappointed by the quality of wine. When the Roman poet Martial
came to Marseille, he stated that the local
wine was bad and expensive poison. However, some of the most beautiful and most
valued Rose wines are produced here. You
should trust your inner impulse, and follow
wines from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape, one
of the most famous wine regions in the
world, south from Orange...
Novels could be written about the food and
recipes. It is a fact that Provence is famous for
its food. Restaurants and bars can be found on
More about Provence
You need to know some Provencal expressions, to travel readily and fit more easily
into Joie de Vivre:
Tomettes – traditional floor tiles made of terracotta
Bowling (this is not unfamiliar to us) – game from La Ciotat, played by 17 million
people in France
Cigale – Crickets are the symbol (and voice) of Provence. They can be heard from
June to September. Only males “sing”. “Singing” depends on the outer temperature
and that is why you can not hear them after the rain or at night
Astis – liquer with the aroma of anise, it is drunk as an appetizer. In Marseille, it is
used cold and diluted in water, as refreshment during hot days
Bories – little houses made of dry stone, serving different purposes. Some even
stem from the 13th century. They were primarily used as barns for cattle, stores for
crops...then became shelters for shepherds, then weekend cottages. Not far from
the village of Gordes, there is the village called Bories, protected as an historical
monument
Mas – traditional village house in Provence. Rectangular shaped, the house is
always turned towards the south, because the mistral blows from the north. Due
to the mistral, houses traditionally have no windows on the north side, while other
windows are narrow, to protect the inside of the house from too much cold or heat
Santons – small, hand painted terracotta figures, which evoke life of Provence
Aioli – a spread made of garlic and olive oil
Provencal (language) – Provencal dialect, characteristic of this area
Fougasse – the traditional Provencal sweet bread. Modern versions taste like olives
and seasoning herbs
Ratatouille – vegetable stewed meat, served as a side dish or main course, originates from Nice
La pissaladiere – resembles pizza, it is made of dough, but never has a tomato
dressing. It is filled with lots of fried onions and pate made of sardine and anchovy,
as well as with black olives, usually from Nice
French Truffles – Truffles, underground mushrooms; pigs were used to dig them
out, but since they love to eat them, they were replaced by dogs. The truffle season
lasts from November to March. Perigord truffle is the most in demand – black diamonds among the mushrooms...
Grasse – homeland of perfume! Three very famous perfume producers are situated
in this town: Galimard, Fragonard and Moulinard. According to legend, the village
became famous when a tanner, in order to diminish the unpleasant smell of gloves
for a countess, dropped them in certain oils, and thus earned the countess’s gratitude. Thus the idea of producing perfume was born. This small town has numerous
perfume shops and produces one-fifth of all French perfumes.
every corner, and for every pocket. Whatever
you choose, be it cheap or expensive, you will
certainly get quality. If you are true gourmet,
who loves not only to eat by also to cook, you
can master your skills in Provence! Namely, you
can attend cooking schools, or courses, practically at “every corner”, which cannot be compared to copied recipes or descriptions in magazines. You can learn and cook immediately,
and then eat your meal, and there is no way
you could ever forget the recipe. On the same
“corners” you can taste different wines and try
various local cheeses.
Therefore, for a complete experience of the
French south, for a true vacation and revitalization of all your nerves, brain cells, heart,
muscles, consciousness and conscience, for
supreme hedonism of all kinds, you need to
go to Provence – go with someone who is
not afraid to kiss you! Or kiss you a hundred
times! Under the Provencal sun, among the
smell of lavender...
29
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JUBILEJI
200 godina od rođenja Petra II Petrovića Njegoša
U slavu sile umstvene
Tekst: Ivana Dedić
Foto: Slaven Vilus
Ova 2013. godina u Crnoj Gori protiče u znaku Njegoša.
Kako se odužiti čovjeku koji je jedan od utemeljivača crnogorske poetske i filozofske
misli i kulture uopšte nego kulturom? Tim povodom od početka godine Crna Gora
je domaćin velikom broju izložbi, publikacija, koncerata, teatarskih programa,
manifestacija… Svi dajemo svoj doprinos u ovom velikom projektu, kako bismo učinili
da za nas posebno značajna godina protekne što bolje, razigranije, svečanije
Lj
eto je, ipak, u Crnoj Gori najljepše! Čemu druge želje
kad je ovdje tako bogato sunce, kad zove čisto more,
kad sve miriše po najljepšem cvijeću – od Durmitora
do naših južnih obala!? Uz to, uživaćete u velikom broju
događaja koji će imati zajedničku nit: posvetu djelu i liku Petra II Petrovića Njegoša, čiju godišnjicu rođenja sa ponosom slavimo.
Širom Crne Gore možete se upoznati sa domaćim folklorom i čuvenom igrom oro, jer su kulturno-umjetnička društva, kao ustupak tradiciji, pripredila zanimljive programe. A to je samo početak… I naši
najpoznajtiji slikari stvorili su bogate opuse inspirisani Njegoševim
riječima, a pozorišta uveliko rade na postavci ili obnovi predstava po
djelima velikana naše književnosti.
Ukoliko do sada nijeste imali prilike da pogledate predstavu „Gorski
Vijenac” u režiji Dijega De Bree, preporučujemo vam da to svakako
učinite. U godini jubileja ova predstava je redovna na repertoaru Crnogorskog narodnog pozorišta, tako da, kad god da dođete u Crnu
Goru, uživaćete u Njegoševim stihovima, kojima posebnost daje
vizura jednog stranca, a poznatog pozorišnog reditelja. Nacionalni
teatar se potrudio da još jednim značajnim teatarskim ostvarenjem
podigne važnost ove godine – predstava „Njegoš, vatre” takođe je
na redovnom repertoaru. Ovaj autorski projekat Radmile Vojvodić i
Paola Međelija, zasnovan na Njegoševom tekstu „Luča mikromozma”,
pomjera referentnu tačku gledanja i otvara nove vidike.
Uveliko se radi i na novim predstavama, tako da će svi ljubitelji teatra
imati prilike da uživaju u još dvjema zanimljivim pozorišnim postavkama. Crnogorsko narodno pozorište u saradnji sa Internacionalnim
festivalom Kotor Artom priprema predstavu „Ja i Njegoš, moj drug iz
mladosti” Paola Mađelija, a učestvuje i u realizaciji predstave „San na
Božić” Lidije Dedović, koja će biti rađena u koprodukciji Kotor Arta i
cetinjskog Kraljevskog pozorišta Zetski dom.
U okviru Kotor Arta biće održano muzičko-poetsko veče „Preplitanja:
Njegošu, s odanošću žene” – još jedan događaj koji pokazuje da Njegoš nije inspirativan samo za scenske već i za muzičke umjetnosti.
Povodom jubileja biće organizovan i koncert „Njegoševih dvjesta”, u
produkciji Kotor Arta i Muzičkog centra Crne Gore, u kojem kao solista nastupa pijanista Ivo Pogorelić. Kotorani i njihovi gosti sigurno
zaslužuju čuti Pogorelića, no, željeće da ga čuje, nesumnjivo, i mnogo
brojnija publika. Kotor će se potruditi da bude dobar domaćin i njemu i svim poštovaocima njegove virtuoznosti. Ni festival Grad teatar Budva neće zaostajati kada su u pitanju sadržaji
inspirisani Njegoševom mišlju. Ukoliko ovo ljeto provodite u Budvi, ili
vas samo put nanese u prijestonicu crnogorskog turizma od 15. juna
do 1. avgusta, program Grad teatra ne smijete propustiti. Festival, 27.
po redu, omogućiće praćenje najuspješnijih teatarskih ostvarenja u
regionu. Sam čin otvaranja odnosno zatvaranja festivala biće posvećen Njegošu i njegovom djelu. Na tome rade neki od najznačajnijih
crnogorskih reditelja.
Njegoš, vatre
Autorski projekat:
Radmila Vojvodić i Paolo Magelli
Svoj rediteljski pečat u ambijentalnoj muzičko-scenskoj svetkovini u
formi procesije, pod nazivom„Gle, idejo, iskro besamrtna”, daće Slobodan Milatović, koji će okupiti neke od najznačajnijih glumaca regiona.
Procesija, koja će nas provesti kroz ulice i maslinjake pred Manastirom
Praskvica, odnosno kroz tri segmenta (muzički, dramski i koreodramski), inspirisana je u potpunosti djelom, simbolom i značenjem Njego-
ša i njegove misli i riječi. Ako kojim slučajem ne pogledate premijeru
ovog igrokaza, prilika za to pružiće vam se i pri koncu festivala.
Sa druge strane, rediteljka Marija Perović, u saradnji sa dramaturškinjom Majom Todorović, priprema multimedijalni igrokaz „Njegoš za
početnike”. Ovaj projekat ima za cilj da Njegoša učini bliskim nama samima, pogotovu mlađim generacijama, i da pokaže da priznati kako
postoji „svakodnevni Njegoš” znači veličati ga na jedan nov način: duhovit, razigran, moderno čitljiv i jasan, zabavan, ritmičan, s kojim je
moguće slaviti pobjedu i shvatiti neuspjeh, koji razumije… Dakle, naš
novi svakodnevni Njegoš, nama današnjima biće mnogo bliži i – važniji! „Njegoš za početnike” zatvoriće Grad teatar Budva.
Centar savremene umjetnosti Crne Gore osmislio je nekoliko umjetničkih projekata u okviru programa obilježavanja dvjesta godina od
rođenja Petra II Petrovića Njegoša. Za sve vas koji ćete se u narednom
periodu naći u Podgorici, preporučujemo „projekat u formi multimedijalne izložbe koja će imati interaktivni karakter”, kako je opisan
autorski projekat Adele Zejnilović. Naime, ona se bavila rekonstrukcijom Njegoševih rukopisa, koji se nalaze Centru savremene umjetnosti Crne Gore od sredine aprila.
Još jedan projekat koji Centar savremene umjetnosti planira jeste
„200 godina samoće – Njegotiations”, čiji su autori istoričar umjetnosti i likovni kritičar Petar Ćuković i pjesnik i teoretičar muzike Vladimir
Đurišić. Projekat će se, simbolično, održati na datum rođenja Petra II
Petrovića Njegoša - 13. Novembra, odnosno smrti - 31. oktobra. Sa
druge strane, Centralna biblioteka organizuje izložbu slika Mihaila–
Muja Jovićevića „Njegoševa nebeska svjetlost”, kao i izložbu otkupljene knjige-skulpture „Noć skuplja vijeka” slikarke Irene Lagator.
Međutim, ukoliko ste od onih koji više vole pokretne slike, nećete
biti zapostavljeni, jer Crnogorska kinoteka raspolaže velikim brojem
filmskih naslova o ličnosti i djelu Petra II. U okviru obilježavanja dvjesta godina od njegovog rođenja, imaćete priliku da pogledate film
Branka Baletića „Noć skuplja dva vijeka”. „Film je … jedno viđenje Njegoševog životopisa, prožeto citatima fragmenata iz njegovih najznačajnijih djela i pisama...”, kazao je urednik programa Andro Martinović.
Martinović je naglasio da će ovaj film biti baziran na postojećim materijalima, na onome što svi mi uglavnom znamo ili bar poznajemo,
ali je ideja autora ono što film čini drugačijim. Naime, Baletić će filmom koji će biti strukturiran na nov način, prikazati Njegoša na nov,
moderan način, mnogo bliži ukusu, spoznaji i vrednotama današnje
publike.
Naravno, nije ovo sve što vas čeka ovog ljeta u Crnoj Gori. Biće tu
još mnogo, mnogo igre, plesa, muzike i smijeha, još mnogo, mnogo
povoda da ljeto provedete na našem moru (recimo radi Kotorskog
festivala za djecu…), ili na našim planinama, a za boravak na njima
pored njihove veličanstvene ljepote i nijesu potrebni drugi povodi.
Dakle: ljeto je najljepše u Crnoj Gori! Dok zovu more i pjace primorskih gradova, dok pjevaju klape, horovi, solisti…, dok cvrči asfalt pod
podgoričkim vrelim nebom, crnogorsko ljeto puno slika, mirisa i
boja, rascvjetano je od Durmitora do najjužnijih obala…
Dobro došli u Crnu Goru da zajedno slavimo život, umjetnost i ime
jednog od naših najvećih pjesnika!
jubilee
200 years since the birth of Petar II PeTrović Njegoš
To the glory
of wise force
Text: Ivana Dedić
This year in Montenegro, 2013, is in the year of Njegoš.
What better way to repay to a man, who is one of the founders of Montenegrin poetry and
philosophical thought and culture, than with culture? For that reason, Montenegro has
been the host of numerous exhibitions, publications, concerts, theatre programs, and events
since the beginning of the year... We are all contributing to this large project, in order to
make this especially significant year as solemn as possible.
Njegoš’s words, and theatres are already working on putting on
new plays or reruns of old ones, based upon the work of our greatest writer.
If you did not have the chance to see the play “The Mountain Wreath” (Gorski vijenac), directed by Diego De Bree, we recommend
you do so. In the jubilee year, this play will be the part of the regular
repertoire of the Montenegrin National Theatre, so whenever you
visit Montenegro, you can enjoy Njegoš’s verses, presented through
the special vista of a famous theatrical director. The National Theatre made an effort to emphasize the importance of this year with
another significant theatre piece of work - the play “Njegoš, Fires”
(Njegoš, vatre), which is also part of their regular repertoire. This project by Radmila Vojvodić and Paolo Magelli, based on Njegoš’s work
“Light of Microcosm” (Luča mikrokozma), shifts the reference point
and opens new horizons, all firmly based on Njegoš and his work.
New plays have already been worked on, thus all theatre lovers
will have a chance to see two more interesting theatrical plays. The
Montenegrin National Theatre, in cooperation with the International Festival Kotor Art, is preparing the piece “Me and Njegoš, my
friend from the youth”, by Paolo Magelli; and will also participate
in the production of the play “Christmas Dream”, by Lidija Dedović,
which will be made in cooperation with Kotor Art and the Royal
Theatre “Zetski dom” from Cetinje.
A music and poetry night, named “Inter-weavings: To Njegoš, with
female loyalty”, will be organized as part of Kotor Art. Another event
shows that Njegoš is inspiring not only for the theatre, but also for
the musical arts. A concert “Njegoš’s two hundred years” will be organized on the occasion of the jubilee, in production by Kotor Art
and the Music Centre of Montenegro, where the pianist Ivo Pogorelić will perform as soloist. The citizens of Kotor and their guests certainly deserve to hear Pogorelić, but a wider public will also, without
doubt, be interested in listening to him. Kotor will make every effort
to be a good host, both to Pogorelić and to those who respect his
virtuosity.
The Festival Theatre City in Budva will also keep pace when it comes
to contents inspired by Njegoš’s thought. If you are spending this
summer in Budva, or just happen to drop by the capital of Montenegrin tourism in the period from 15 June to 1 August, you must
not miss the program of the Theatre City. The Festival, the 27th in a
row, will provide the most successful of regional theatre accomplishments. The opening and the closing of the Festival will be dedicated to Njegoš and his work. Some of the most significant Montenegrin directors are working on it.
S
ummer is the most beautiful season in Montenegro! What else
to wish for, with such a rich sun, the calling of the clear sea, the
smell of the most beautiful flowers – all the way from Durmitor
to our coast in the south!? This year, you will have the chance to enjoy
the large number of events, which all have a mutual thread: they will
be dedicated to the personality and works of Petar II Petrović Njegoš,
36
whose anniversary of birth we proudly celebrate.
You will be able to encounter our national folklore all around Montenegro, and learn about the famous wheel dance called “oro”, since
many cultural and artistic associations have prepared their programs, as a concession to tradition. And that is only the beginning...
Our most prominent painters have created new works inspired by
The well known director Slobodan Milatović will leave his imprint
on the musical and dramatic celebrations in the form of a procession, under the name “Look, idea, you immortal spark”. The event
will gather some of the most prominent regional actors. The procession, which will take us through streets and olive-grove in front of
the Praskavica monastery, and will be comprised of three segments
(music, drama and dance) is entirely inspired by the work, symbolism and meaning of Njegoš and his thoughts and work. If by any
chance you miss the premiere of this theatrical piece, you will get
another chance at the end of the Festival.
Elsewhere, the director Marija Perović, in cooperation with the
playwright Maja Todorović, is preparing a multimedia play “Njegoš for
Beginners”. This project aims to bring Njegoš closer to us, especially to
the younger generations, and show that acknowledging the existence of the “everyday Njegoš” means glorifying him in a new way: as
funny, playful, and readable in a modern manner and clear... entertaining, rhythmic, understanding, and suitable both for a celebration
of victory and for an understanding of failure... Therefore, our new,
everyday Njegoš is a lot closer to us and – more important! “Njegoš
for Beginners” will run at the Theatre City Budva.
The Centre for Modern Art of Montenegro has created several new
artistic projects as part of the program dedicated to the celebration
of two hundred years since the birth of Petar II Petrović Njegoš. For
all of you, who will be in Podgorica in the upcoming period, we recommend the “project in the form of a multimedia exhibition with
an interactive character”, which is a project by Adela Zejnilović. In this
she deals with a reconstruction of Njegoš’s handwritten manuscripts,
which have been exhibited in this gallery since the middle of April.
Another project planned by the Centre of Modern Art is “200 years of
solitude – Njegotiations”, whose authors are Petar Ćuković, art historian and critic, and Vladimir Đurišić, poet and music theoretician. The
project will, symbolically, be presented on the dates of the death, and
birth of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, 31 October and 13 November. At the
same time, the Central Library will organize an exhibition of paintings
by Mihailo Mujo Jovićević, “Njegoš’s Sky Light”, as well as an exhibition
of a repurchased book-sculpture “A Night More Precious than a Century”, by the artist Irena Lagator Pejović.
However, if you are among those who prefer film, you surely will not
be neglected. The Montenegrin Film Archives disposes of a large
number of film titles, connected to the personality and work of Petar
II. As part of the jubilee, 200 years since his birth, you will have the
chance to watch the film by Branko Baletić, “A Night More Precious
than a Century”. “This film is...” one point of view of Njegoš’s biography,
permeated by quotes of fragments from his most significant works
and letters...” said the editor of the program, Andro Martinović. Martinović emphasized that this film would be based on existing materials, on what we already know, or have heard of, but the author’s idea
is what makes the film different. Namely, Baletić will present Njegoš
in a new way, through a differently structured film, in a modern way,
much closer to the taste, knowledge and values of today’s public.
Of course, this is not all that awaits you this summer in Montenegro.
There will be many more plays, dance, music and laughter, many
more reasons to spend the summer on our coast (for example because of the Kotor Festival for Children...), or in our mountains, which
will attract you with their magnificent beauty.
Therefore: the summer is the most beautiful season in Montenegro!
The call of the sea and the main squares of coastal towns, the singing
of choirs and soloists, the sizzling of asphalt under the scorching Podgorica sky are beckoning. The Montenegrin summer is always full of
pictures, smells and colors, blooming from Durmitor to the southern
coast.
Welcome to Montenegro to celebrate life, art and the name of one of
our greatest poets together!
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Umjetnik umjetniku
Vječnost je
njegovo vrijeme
From one artist
to another
Text: Jasna Cvetković
Fotografije: Miodrag Marković
Proslavljanje 200. godišnjice rođenja nenadmašnog crnogorskog duhovnika, poete,
filozofa i vladara, počelo je na Cetinju postavljanjem skulpture U slavu Njegoševe misli
P
od otvorenim nebom, u ambijentu Biljarde i Manastira, Njegoševog svjetovnog i duhovnog doma, s pogledom na Lovćen,
gdje počiva po svojoj želji, otkrivena je skulptura – U slavu Njegoševe misli. Skulptura Dimitrija Popovića dobrodošla je ne samo kao
poklon cijenjenog umjetnika rodnom gradu već i zato što Njegoševo
djelo i vječne istine sadržane u njemu i u našem vremenu imaju duboku aktuelnost: „Skulptura simbolički predstavlja čovjekovu uzaludnu
težnju da spozna apsulut ili Boga”, objasnio je Popović, „a visoki rosfrajni krak usmjeren prema nebu upućuje na nedokučivost kosmičkog
misterija; drugi niži, također zašiljen krak, sugeriše ograničeni domet
čovjekove spoznaje. Ljudska glava metamorfozne anatomije izražava
stremljenja duha zarobljenog u tjelesnoj tamnici. Čovjek, kao kažnjenik
zemaljskog bitisanja, živi svoju sudbinu svjestan tajne koju ne može
spoznati...”
Skulpturu prati i inspirativna izložba Misterijum Luče mikrokozma,
koja je, u stvari, susret dva umjetnika iz dva vremena, istog korijena a različitog umjetničkog izraza. Na izložbi je prikazano i deset
sofisticirano erotičnih akvarela, nadahnutih ljubavnim stihovima
Blago onom ko dovijek živi,
imao se rašta i roditi!
- Petar II Petrović Njegoš
jednog vladike!? „Sovršenstvo tvorenija tainstvene sile božje, ništa
ljepše nit je kada, niti od nje stvorit može ... malena joj usta slatka, a angelski obraščići, od tisuću što čuvstvujem, jednu ne znam
sada reći...” Antologijska, svevremenska pjesma Noć skuplja vijeka
na likovni način povezana je sa stihovima iz Luče, i svjedoči da su
čovjekove želje i čežnje svojevrsna mjera same ljudskosti. Njegoševi stihovi traju u našoj ukupnoj kolektivnoj i ličnoj svijesti, kao ukras
identiteta i samobitnosti, i potvrđuju se nanovo kao izvor inspiracije drugih umjetnika:
„Popović je stvorio svoj misterijum Luče mikrokozma i cjelinom izložbe jedno posebno viđenje.
Perfekcija izrade i dorađenost koncepta dopunjavaju utisak o umjetnikovoj posvećenosti temi i njenom značenju u sadašnjosti i budućnosti, i osvjetljavaju njen cilj – odavanje počasti velikom pjesniku i državniku.” (Olga Perović)
Njegoš, Luča, Noć... naša su velika inspiracija u suštinski vječnoj borbi duha i tijela, svjetlosti i mraka, dobra i zla... U borbi za čovjeka.
Eternity
is his time
Text: Jasna Cvetković
Photography: Miodrag Marković
The celebration of the 200th anniversary
of the birth of the unrivaled Montenegrin
clergyman, poet, philosopher and
sovereign, has begun in Cetinje, with the
unveiling of a sculpture „In honour of
Njegoš’s thought“
A
sculpture – „In honour of Njegoš’s thought“ was unveiled
– in the open air, in historical atmoshere of the Biljarda
(Billiard rooms) and Monastery, Njegoš’s secular and spiritual home, with a view of Lovćen, where he rests, according to
his wish. The sculpture by Dimitrije Popović is welcome not only
as a gift from a respected artist to his native town, but also because Njegoš’s work, that is, the eternal truths in his words, are
deeply relevent in our times: „The sculpture symbolically represents a man’s futile aspiration to comprehend the absolute or the
existence of God“, explained Popović,
„and high rostfrei branch, pointed towards the sky, refers to the
unfathomableness of the cosmic mystery; the other, lower, also
pointed branch, suggested limited range of man’s knowledge.
Human head with metamorphosis anatomy expresses aspirations of the spirit trapped in bodily dungeon. Man, condemned
to earthly existence, lives his destiny unaware of the secret he
cannot comprehend...“
The sculpture is followed by an inspiring exhibition „Mystery of
the Light of Microcosm“, which is actually, the meeting of two
artists from two different times, with the same roots, but of different artistic expression. Ten sophisticated erotic water colours
inspired by the love verses of a bishop, are presented at exhibition!?!
„There is nothing more beautiful that could have ever been or
ever would be made, than perfect creation of God’s mysterious
force... small sweet mouth and angelic cheeks, from a thousand
thoughts I am having now, not a single one can I express...“
The anthological eternal poem „A Night More Precious than a
Century”, was in an artistic way connected to verses from „the
Light of Microcosm“, and witnesses that man’s desires and longings are specific measure of his humanity itself. Njegoš’s verses
last in our collective and personal consciousness, as ornament of
Blessed is he whose name lives forever
A good reason had he to be alive!
- Petar II Petrović Njegoš
identity, and are repeatedly confirmed as a source of inspiration
for other artists:
„Popović has created his mystery of the Light of Microcosm, and
a special perspective from the aspect of the entire exhibition. The
perfection of construction and finished quality of the concept,
complete an impression of artist’s dedication to this topic and its
meaning in the present and in the future, and illuminate its goal
– paying respect to a great poet and sovereign.“ (Olga Perović)
Njegoš, the Light of Microcosm, A Night More Precious than
a Century...are our great inspiration, in essential eternal fight
between the spirit and the body, light and dark, good and evil...
In fight for man.
41
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Etno: katuni, ljetnja stočarska naselja
Život na planini
Tekst i fotografije: Igor Šuntić
Lje­pota života na katunu je u njegovoj jednostavnosti i
funkcionalnosti, kao i u dubokoj povezanosti čovjeka i prirode.
Katun Bljušturni Do, Moračke planine
K
atuni su specifična stočarska naselja na visokim planin­
skim pašnjacima. U njima stočari žive tokom ljetnjih
mje­seci, kada napasaju stoku.
Još od XII vijeka katuni su poznati pod ovim nazivom. Budući da
tu borave dobar dio godine, stočari od drveta i kamena grade
kolibe za stanovanje na planini, kao i druge prateće objekte.
Poljoprivreda i stočarstvo vjekovima su bili osnovna dje­latnost
ljudi u planinskim krajevima Crne Gore. Gajenje ovaca, koza,
goveda i konja je tradicija. Meso, mlijeko, kajmak, sir, koža i
vuna su proi­zvodi prepoznatljivog kvaliteta.
Život ljudi planinskog podneblja uglavnom se odvija na katu­
nima, a u sela se odlazi isključivo u zimskom periodu. Lje­pota
života na katunu je u njegovoj jednostavnosti i funkcionalnosti, kao i u dubokoj povezanosti čovjeka i prirode.
Zašto moderni turisti
vole katune?
- Skroman, jednostavan život… naporan – bez struje,
puta, tehnologije… a lijep, iskonski, predivan!
- Divljina, nepristupačnost, daljina, visina… čovjek u
prirodi, priroda u njegovim plućima, očima, damarima,
mislima...
- Otopljeni snijeg - voda sniježnica (gomile snijega tj.
leda, pokrivene lišćem ili sijenom, da se ne uprljaju i ne
otope), koja je hladna, čista, prirodna…
- Biljke i životinje koje su drugdje nestale, na katunima
imaju sigurne domove; tradicionalnim načinom života
i prilagođavajući se, čovjek-stočar je omogućio svemu
što je priroda dala da opstane i traje uz njega.
- Neponovljivi čar nomadskog života – nevjerovatna
udaljenost od svih zaglušujućih i zasljepljujućih pritisaka moderne civilizacije…
- Osama… planina… glasovi i tišina…
- Legende i pripovijesti starijih mještana i lokalnih maštara, uz ognjišta u drvenim kolibama…
- Zvjezdana noć koja obgrli cio katun, a po planinskom
putu padne mlada mjesečina…
- Titravo slabašno svjetlo petrolejke gasne, označi duboki mrak i vrijeme za snove…
- Najljepše spavanje u životu…
Autentičan izgled katunskih koliba dokazuje tu iskonsku
vezu. Kolibe i drugi objekti na katunima građeni su od prirodnih materijala iz neposrednog okruženja. Specifičnost
života i običaja, arhitektura tj. narod­no neimarstvo i etnografsko nasljeđe u selima i na katunima, privla­če sve one
koji žele da se neposredno upoznaju sa dugovječnim, tradicionalnim načinom života.
Sa katuna se pružaju pogledi na živopisne predjele i pla­
ninske masive u okruženju. Doživljaj upotpunjuju očaravajući pejzaži divljine, svježina vazduha, čista izvorska voda,
cvrkut ptica, neza­boravni mirisi i raskošne boje poljskog
cvijeća… A kad na planinu padne noć i zavlada spokojna
tišina, uljepšavaju je i griju pucketanja vatre u kolibam, miris razlivenog mlijeka i domaći, tek pečeni hljeb… ukusna
domaća hrana i dobri domaćini crnogorskih katuna.
Porto Montenegro
Trebinje
Dubrovnik
3D Naselje “Dubrovnik Heights”
Pogled vredan milion
Villa type 1
Villa type 2
Građevinske parcele od 450 do 1.000 kvadratnih metara po ceni od 50 i od 60 eura po kvadratu. Mogućnost gradnje po sistemu “ključ
u ruke”. Kompletna infrastruktura - obezbeđena. Vila bez bazena, od 140 kvadratnih metara - samo 142.000 eura. Mogućnost kreditiranja Hypo-Alpe Adria Banke.
Ivanica - BiH, na samoj granici sa Hrvatskom, sa predivnim pogledom na Dubrovačku rivijeru: Cavtat, Plat, Mlini, Srebreno, Kupari i
budući Golf Park Dubrovnik, na samo 6 km od Dubrovnika, 14 km od dubrovačkog aerodroma, 18 km od Trebinja, 28 km od Herceg
Novog.
Ethno: Shepherd’s summer cattle settlements
Life in the mountains
Text : Igor Šuntić
Photography: Igor Šuntić, Slaven Vilus
The beauty of living in these shepherd’s settlements lies in simplicity and
functionality, as well as in the deep connection of man with nature
S
hepherd’s settlements are special cattle-breeding villages
in the high mountain pasture lands. Cattle breeders live in
them during the summer months when they graze their
cattle.
Ever since the 12th century, shepherd’s settlements have been
known by this name. Given that they spend a large part of the
year there, cattle breeders carefully build their huts for life in the
mountains, as well as other necessary huts, out of wood and stone.
Agriculture and cattle breeding have been the basic activities of
people in the mountains of Montenegro for years and years. The
breeding of sheep, goats, cattle and horses is a long-standing tradition. Meat, milk, sour cream, cheese, hide and wool have long
been produced of the highest quality.
The life of people in the mountain area is mostly set in these
shepherd’s settlements, and the farmers only go to the villages
for the winter period. The beauty of living in these shepherd’s
settlements lies in simplicity and functionality, as well as in the
deep connection of man with nature.
An examination of the hut in the shepherd’s settlement proves that primordial relation. The huts and other objects in the
shepherd’s settlements are built of natural materials from the
immediate environment. This unique way of life and customs,
architecture, and the actual building construction and ethnographic heritage in the villages and shepherd’s settlements,
attract all those who want to directly experience a long-standing,
traditional way of living.
Views of picturesque regions and surrounding mountain massifs are always the backdrop for the shepherd’s settlements. The
experience is completed by the enchanting wild landscapes, the
freshness of the air, the clean spring water, the twitter of birds,
the unforgettable smells and the gorgeous colors of flowers. And
when night falls on the mountains and calm quietness prevails, it
is beautified and warmed by the cracking of fire in the huts, the
smell of spilled milk and homemade freshly baked bread. Come
and enjoy the tasty local food and good hosts of the Montenegrin shepherd’s settlements.
Why do modern tourists
love shepherd’s settlements?
- Modest, simple life... hard – without electricity, road, technology... but beautiful, primordial, gorgeous!
- Wilderness, inaccessibility, distance, height... man in nature, nature in his lungs, eyes, pulse, thoughts...
- Melted snow – snow water (piles of snow, that is, ice, covered with leaves or hay, to prevent getting dirty or melting), which
is cold, clean, natural...
- Plants and animals that have disappeared elsewhere, have safe homes at shepherd’s settlements; with his traditional way of
life and accommodating, man-cattle breeder enabled survival and duration of everything that nature gave.
- Unique charm of nomadic life – unbelievable distance of all deafening and blinding impressions of modern civilization...
- Isolation... mountain... voices and quietness...
- Legends and stories of older inhabitants and local dreamers, besides fireplaces in wooden huts...
- Starry night that hugs entire shepherd’s settlement, and young moonlight that falls on the mountain road...
- Flickering, weak light of oil lamp that marks deep darkness and time for dreams...
- The best sleeping in life...
LJETO U CRNOJ GORI
Vrijeme za uživanje u
umjetnosti i dobrom
provodu
Pored izuzetne kulturne festivalske ponude - Kotor Art, Budva Grad
Teatar, Barski ljetopis, Filmski festival Herceg Novi i Tivatsko kulturno
ljeto - čekaju na vas i tradicionalne fešte, popularne žurke na plažama
i ambijentalni koncerti ...
Foto: Slaven Vilus
Nacionalna turistička organizacija
Crne Gore preporučuje
Top 6 ovog ljeta
Southern Soul Festival Montenegro 2013, Ulcinj
Prvi Southern Soul Fest biće održan na plaži kite surfing kluba Dolcinium, Velika plaža kod Ulcinja, i trajaće tri dana (28 – 30. jun). Festival
će okupiti međunarodne zvijezde soul, fun, house, jazz i reggae scene
i muzičke talente iz regiona. Nastupe su potvrdili Alice Russel (V. Britanija), DJ ikona Theo Parissh, hip-hop legenda DJ Format, kao i pioniri
njemačke elektronske muzike – Jazzanova i Rainer Truby. Southern Soul
će ugostiti i priznate umjetnike iz okruženja – nadaleko poznatog Vasila
Hadžimanova i neke od najboljih DJ-eva sa prostora bivše Jugoslavije.
Mediteranska klima, izvanredna hrana, raznolikost smještajnih kapaciteta na području Ulcinja, bogata sportska turistička ponuda i čuveno
gostoprimstvo ljudi ovog kraja, samo su dodatni motivi za dolazak na
Southern Soul Festival.
Više informacija o ovom festivalu možete naći na zvaničnoj web stranici
http://www.southernsoulfestival.com/.
After Beach Parties, duž cijelog primorja
Budući da iz godine u godinu Crna Gora postaje sve prepoznatljivija
među mladima kao destinacija za dobar provod, koncept after beach
zabave uz zalazak sunca učiniće boravak na primorju nezaboravnim.
Festival After Beach Parties održaće se u periodu od 16. jula do 14. avgusta, na deset plaža duž crnogorske obale. Posjetioce će u navedenom periodu zabavljati neka od najvećih imena regionalne i svjetske
DJ scene.
Festival je namijenjen zaljubljenicima u elektronsku muziku različitih
žanrova. Tokom 300 zabava, koje će biti organizovane za vrijeme popodnevnih časova, prisutni će uživati u jedinstvenom spoju ambijenta
plaže i ljetnjih muzičkih hitova.
Za više informacija posjetite web stranicu http://www.event.its.me/.
Festivalski grad – Kotor
U „najmaškarnijem gradu” na Mediteranu svake godine održava se Internacionalni ljetnji kotorski festival, kao kruna karnevalskih svečanosti.
Centralni događaj je karnevalska povorka (prve subote u avgustu), koju
preko glavne gradske rive predvodi kapo karnevala. Prati ih gradska
muzika, mažoretke, karnevalske grupe iz Kotora, Tivta, Budve... Stižu i
gosti iz Italije, Hrvatske, Slovenije, Srbije... Organizuju se koncerti, ribarske fešte, „papalade ala maka”, a vrhunac je završnica karnevala – Bokeljska noć! Bokeljska noć obećava povorke specijalno dekorisanih barki,
raskoš mašte, vatromete i ludu zabavu do zore. Srdačni i druželjubivi
Kotorani sa ponosom će opet otvoriti srce ovog lijepog, drevnog grada.
Lake Fest, Nikšić
Ove godine muzički festival Lake Fest trajaće od 19. do 21. jula. U
Nikšiću, u okviru planiranog programa, nastupiće: Goribor, DLM,
Divlje jagode, Hladno pivo, Goblini, Disciplina kičme, Postolar Tripper,
Skroz, Iskaz & Marchelo, Letu 3, Majke, Bad copy, Atheist rap, Eyesburn,
Bajaga, Playboy, Obojeni program... Posebnu pažnju izazvaće i mladi crnogorski bendovi. Lake Fest je, i za ovu priliku pripremio bogat
umjetnički program, pa će veliki broj umjetnika sa svih strana prikazati
svoje performanse, instalacije, izložbe...
Za više informacija posjetite web stranicu http://www.lakefest.me/.
Durmitor Art Eco Festival, Žabljak
Glavni cilj organizatora durmitorskog festivala jeste podizanje svijesti
o ekologiji i to kroz umjetničko promišljanje očuvanja životnog prostora. Umjetnost u funkciji ekologije predstavlja nit koja se proteže
kroz cijeli festivalski program i ima za cilj očuvanje našeg prirodnog
bogatstva, odnosno – shvatanje ekologije kao svojevrsnog umijeća
življenja.
Festival će okupiti umjetnike iz oblasti filma, fotografije, slikarstva,
muzike, skulpture, dizajna, land arta, street arta...
U peridu od 15. do 19. avgusta, od ranog jutra pa do kasne večeri,
na za to predviđenim prostorima u gradu, na obalama Crnog jezera i
drugim lokacijama, prema programu će se crtati, izrađivati skulpture,
organizovati performansi i izložbe…, a svoje nastupe imaće i DJ-evi,
akrobate…
Petrovačka noć
Petrovačka noć je najveća tradicionalna fešta od ribe i vina, i biće
organizovana 30. avgusta. Ona podrazumijeva i cjelodnevni zabavni i sportski program. Za večernje sate predviđeni su, na platou ispred hotela „Palas”, koncerti muzičkih zvijezda, kao i veliki
vatromet.
Cjelogodišnji program manifestacija dostupan je i na zvaničnom turističkom portalu www.montenegro.travel
Broj telefona za sve informacije i rezervacije – Montenegro Call
Center: 1300, 24 h dnevno.
national touristic organisation
of montenegro presents
Top six for the
upcoming summer
Southern Soul Festival Montenegro 2013, Ulcinj
Lake Fest, Nikšić
The first “Southern Soul Festival” will be held at the kite surfing beach club “Dolcinium”, on the Long Beach near Ulcinj,
and will last for three days (28 to 30 June). The Festival will
gather international stars of the soul, funk, house, jazz and
reggae scenes, together with regional music talents. Alice
Russel (Great Britain), the DJ icon Theo Parrish, the hip-hop
legend DJ Format, as well as pioneers of German electro
music, Jazzanova and Rainer Truby have already confirmed their participation. “Southern Soul” will also feature
acknowledged artists from this region – the widely famous
Vasil Hadžimanov, and some of the best DJs from the former
Yugoslavia.
This year, the music festival “Lake Fest” will be held from 19 to 21
July. Bands: Goribor, DLM, Divlje jagode, Hladno pivo, Goblini,
Disciplina kičme, Postolar Tripper, Skroz, Iskaz & Marchelo, Letu
štuke, Majke, Bad copy, Atheist rap, Eyesburn, Bajaga, Playboy,
Obojeni program will perform in Nikšić, as part of a planned,
diverse program. A number of new young Montenegrin bands
will attract special attention.
The mediterranean climate, exquisite food, the diversity of the
available accommodation in and around Ulcinj, the rich sport
tourist attractions and the famous hospitality of the local inhabitants, are just additional motives to visit the “Southern Soul
Festival”.
You can find more information about the festival on official
website: http://www.southernsoulfestival.com/
After Beach Parties, along the coast
Given that Montenegro is becoming increasingly recognized
by young people as a good entertainment destination, the
concept of the “after beach” party after sunset, will make your
summer vacation unforgettable.
The festival “After Beach Parties” will be held in the period from
16 July to 14 August on ten beaches along the Montenegrin
coast. Visitors will be able to enjoy performances by some of
the most famous DJs from the regional and world scenes.
The festival is designed for lovers of electronic music of different genres. Guests will enjoy the unique combination of a beach atmosphere and summer music hits at 300 parties, which
will be organized in the evening hours.
For more information, visit the web page
http://www.event.its.me/
Festival town – Kotor
The International Summer Kotor Festival, as the crown
of carnival festivities, is organized every year in the “most
masqueraded town” in the Mediterranean. Guests from
Italy, Croatia, Slovenia, and Serbia will arrive... Concerts, fishing festivities, “papalada” (a traditional local dish) will be
organized, and the culmination is the final event of the carnival – Bokeljska noć (Boka Night)! Boka Night promises
processions of boats, specially decorated for that occasion,
splendors of imagination, fireworks and crazy partying till
dawn. The cordial and friendly citizens of Kotor will proudly
open the heart of this beautiful, ancient town again.
www.kotorart.org
“The Lake Fest” has traditionally prepared a varied artistic program; and so a large number of artists from different countries
will present their performances, installations, exhibitions...
For more information, visit the web page
http://www.lakefest.me/
Durmitor Art Eco Festival, Žabljak
The Main goal of the Durmitor festival is raising ecological awareness, through an artistic reflection of environmental preservation. Art for ecological purposes is the thread that spreads
through the entire festival program, and aims to preserve our
natural treasure. As a matter of fact, it is aimed at helping people to understand that ecology is a specific art of living.
The festival will gather together artists from the areas of film,
photography, painting, music, sculpture, design, land art, street
art...
According to the program, in the period from 15 to 19 August,
from early morning till late night, drawing, making sculptures,
performances and exhibitions will be organized at locations
prepared just for that purpose in the town, on the shore of the
Black Lake (Crno jezero) and other sites. DJ s and acrobats will
also perform...
Petrovac Night
“Petrovac Night” (Petrovačka noć) is the largest traditional festival dedicated to fish and wine, and will be organized on 30
August. The festivities includes all-day entertainment and a
sport program. Concerts by attractive music stars, and a huge
fireworks display are foreseen for the evening hours, on the promenade in front of the hotel “Palas”.
The whole-year program of events is available at the official tourist portal www.montenegro.travel
The phone number for all information and reservations –
Montenegro Call Center: 1300 is available 24/7.
61
www.prvabankacg.com • [email protected]
Centrala: Bulevar Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 141
Tel: +382 20 409 174 • Fax: +382 20 409 124
Srećan i bezbrižan put želi Vam Sava Montenegro AD!
Sava Montenegro AD wish you a pleasant and safe journey!
za svaki slucaj
just in case
Sava Montenegro AD • Rimski trg 70, 81000 Podgorica
Tel/fax: +382 (0) 20 234 008
Call center: +382 (0) 20 40 30 20
www.sava.co.me • [email protected]
Putničko zdravstveno osiguranje učiniće
Vaše putovanje bezbrižnijim i sigurnijim.
Travel Health Insurance will make
your trip safer and more enjoyable.
Neka Vam putničko zdravstveno osiguranje
postane navika i prije svakog polaska na put
posjetite web shop Sava Montenegro AD – i
osigurajte se.
Let your travel insurance become a habit
and before you travel, visit web shop
Sava Montenegro AD – and get insurance
for yourself.
za svaki slučaj: www.sava.co.me
just in case: www.sava.co.me
Online kupovina osiguranja štedi Vaše
vrijeme i novac i omogućava jednostavniji
pristup uslugama osiguranja!
Buying insurance on line saves your time and
money and allows easy access to insurance
services.
Kupite polisu putničkog zdravstvenog
osiguranja 24 sata dnevno i to 365 dana
u godini!
Buy a Travel Health Insurance policy
24 hours a day, 365 days a year!
Ne dozvolite da Vam bilo šta pokvari ugodnost
putovanja! Preuzimamo odgovornost i
brigu o Vama bilo da se sunčate, putujete,
razgledate ili se odmarate u svojoj hotelskoj
sobi. Sava Montenegro AD – za svaki slučaj!
Don’t let anything spoil your wonderful
trip! We take responsibility and care of you no
matter whether you are sunbathing, travelling,
going sightseeing or having a rest in your hotel
room. Sava Montenegro AD – just in case!
More, more...
More? Novsko more je čisto „kao dukat onog vakta”! Struje koje vitlaju kroz vode Boke Kotorske čiste šporkecu i odvlače je daleko na sinje
otvoreno more. Podzemne vode pomažu filtriranju morske pjene, pa
se prsti mogu zalediti od studene vode, što je čisti dokaz zdravine i
ljepote.
Ko želi u Novi, mora imati obuću za sve prilike. Za trčanje skalinama, za šetnju rivom, za veče, za dan... A iz Novog se odlazi bogatijeg
duha, jasnijeg sluha, bolje percepcije i zdravijeg pogleda na svijet. I sa
pravom identifikacijom – zalivskom čarolijom svako bude maskiran
u svog karnevalskog junaka, u pravog sebe!
NAŠI GRADOVI –
Herceg Novi
Svaka skala
jedna priča
Istorijat
Text: Mari Sarap
Foto: Duško Miljanić
Herceg Novi je jedan od najmlađih gradova na Jadranu. Nazivali su ga: Novi, Castrum
Novum, Castel Nuovo... Brojni vladari, banovi, kraljevi i sultani, željeli su Novi za odmor i
uživanje..., za utvrdu ili snažnu geostratešku poziciju. Kulture su prolazile, smjenjivale se,
a monumenti opstajali, pa se, na sreću, vjekovno istoriografsko blago gomilalo i bogatilo.
Herceg Novi je grad muzeja od važnosti, ugledne fortifikacije, grad sa starim gradskim
jezgrom, spomenicima i vjerskim objektima...
Fešte
N
ovi se vazda da prepoznati po specifičnoj ariji, svejedno
da li ste na rivi, skalama ili ste se zaputili u zaleđe Orjena,
Mokrina, Žljeba, Sutorine, Vrbanja... Svako parče novskog
šetališta ima glavni, najglavniji i najsporedniji punkt. Sve ima svoj
šmek i osobenost. Za to su zaslužni oriđinali, ljudi koji su nekad
živjeli pod novskom kapom, činjeli škerce, solili atmosferu grada i
odlepršali u mit, legendu... u origina’o. Bokeškim jezikom govore
samo kapriciozni i neke prilično sijede glave. Bokeški jezik je mješavina italijanštine, latinskih i domaćih riječi. Nalik na sve poznato,
no, po bokeški sklopljeno da „mušća na parićanje”, na samodovoljnu Boku i njene simpatične, galiotaste stanovnike.
Djevojke iz Novog su najzgodnije na crnogorskom primorju! Skaline čine trening: cio dan uza skale – niza skale..., jurnjava novskim
skalama djeluje protiv tromih nogu, krive kičme, debelih trbušina
i svakojakih tegoba današnjeg svijeta.
Mimoza je veoma dekorativno drveće sa upadljivim i mirisnim žutim
cvjetovima. U posljednje tri decenije mimozu su proslavile fešte u
čast njene ljepote. Cijelog februara grad miriše na mimozu. Mimoza
je veoma dekorativno drveće sa upadljivim i mirisnim žutim cvjetovima. U posljednje tri decenije mimozu su proslavile fešte u čast
njene ljepote, mada je mimoza, maltene, obični korov u odnosu na
bogumile, kamelije, oleandre, mirisne akacije i afrodizijačke pitasfore,
koje se takođe gaje u ovom kraju. Uz mimozin miris, što se prospe
nad gradom, ulicama lampaju mažoretke, maškare i dječji karnevali.
Maškaranje je obavezno, Gradska muzika i plesači prava su audiovizulena podrška, dok su trombonjeri vazda isti – po starinjski pucaju
i označavaju početak i kraj parade. Spaljivanje karnevalskog krivca je
feštađunska pikanterija, kojom se zatvara mimozin praznik i kojom se
kroz metaforu strarobokeškog zakulisnog govora iskritikuje pomalo
sve, a u jedan kain... tako se ulazi u sljedeću festivalsku godinu.
Filmski festival je posebna priča iz Novog. Dolaze značajni umjetnici,
vide se dobri filmovi, ugoste posebno dragi ljudi. Dolaze i dive, bude
glamurozno, a opet po naški, po novski, taknuto lacmanski, mušaljski, sve u svemu – gostoljubivo i dobronamjerno.
Grad je osnovan 1382. godine, kada se bosanski ban, kralj
Tvrtko I Kotromanić, utvrdio u Topaljskom zalivu, sa namjerom da utvrda postigne trgovački, pomorski i zanatski značaj i ulogu. Utvrđeni grad je nazvao – Sveti Stefan. Današnje
ime je dobio u vrijeme vladavine Hercega Stjepana, kada je
doživio i najveći procvat i razvoj. U njemu su se smjenjivali
razni narodi i civilizacije, ostavljajući duboke tragove u kulturi
i ukupnom nasljeđu grada: Turci, Mlečani, Rusi, Francuzi, Austrougari... Bogato spomeničko nasljeđe na području Herceg
Novog rezultat je prožimanja raznih naroda i kultura koje su
se kroz njegovu istoriju smjenjivale, sudarale, sretale... U hercegnovskoj opštini postoji 89 crkava (75 pravoslavnih i 14
katoličkih) i još 12 lokacija na kojima se nalaze ostaci crkava,
koje se arheološki proučavaju.
U Novom su: Herceg fest, Arhiv Herceg Novog, Zavičajni muzej, Gradska biblioteka...
Fortifikacioni objekti su: Španjola, Kanli kula, Sat kula, Kula sv.
Jeronima, Forte Mare i Citadela.
Mamula
Na samom ulazu u Bokokotorski zaliv nalazi se ostrvo Lastavica, sa napuštenom tvrđavom – Mamulom. Mamula
predstavlja jednu od najvećih i najbolje očuvanih austrijskih fortifikacija na Jadranu. Karakteriše je monumentalnost, izrazita preciznost gradnje i savršena funkcionalnost
oblika. Udaljena je od Herceg Novog 3,4 nautičke milje,
kružnog je oblika i prečnika oko 200 m. Ulaz sa pristaništem i minijaturnom plažom nalazi se sa sjeverne strane
ostrva, dok je sa ostalih strana obala strma i nepristupačna,
a more duboko. Po svom arhitektonskom rješenju Mamula predstavlja najljepšu tvrđavu na Jadranu. Sredinom XIX
vijeka podigao je austrijski general i namjesnik Dalmacije,
baron Lazar Mamula. Otuda i ime tvrđave. Inače, baron
Mamula bio je vjenčani kum crnogorskog knjaza Danila
Petrovića.
OUR TOWNS – Herceg Novi
Each stair
tells a
story
Text: Mari Sarap
Photographs: Duško Miljanić, Vojo Radonjić
Herceg Novi is one of the youngest
towns in the Adriatic region. It has
been called: Novi, Castrum Novum,
and Castel Nuovo. Numerous rulers,
governors, kings and sultans, wanted
Novi for their vacations and pleasure,
or as a fortress due to its important
geo-strategic location. Cultures have
passed through and changed, and their
monuments have survived, and luckily,
our centuries-old historic treasure
has become richer and more copious.
Herceg Novi is a town of important
museums, imposing castles, with an old
town nucleus, and many monumental
and religious objects.
N
ovi is always recognizable by something specific; no matter if
you are on the seafront, on the famous stairs or you are headed to Orjen, Mokrin, Žljeb, Sutorina, or Vrbanj. Each part has
its own charm and specificity. The “Originals”, the people that used to
live under the cap of Novi, added salt to the town’s atmosphere, and
flew away into myth and legend...these “Originals” contributed to the
town’s charm. The local language of the Boka is spoken only by a few
whimsical older citizens. That language is a mixture of Italian, Latin
and locally coined words. It is similar to something familiar, but entirely composed here.
The girls from Novi are the most attractive on the Montenegrin
coast! The stairs provide complete training: all day up and down the
stairs works against inactive plump legs, curvature of the spine, fat
bellies and all kinds of other issues in today’s world.
Festivities
The mimosa plant is a very decorative tree with notable and aromatic yellow flowers. In the last three decades, this plant has been
celebrated by festivities dedicated to its beauty. The town features
the scent of the mimosa all February. However, it is only a simple
weed, compared to the camellias, rosebays, aromatic acacias and
myrtle, with aphrodisiac properties, which are also grown in this area.
Majorettes, masquerades and children’s carnivals march through the
town, all followed by this aroma. Masks are obligatory, and the town
music and dances are a true audio-visual treat, while the trombonists are always the same, playing to mark the beginning and end of
the parade. The burning of the carnival villain is the piquant of the
festival, which closes the Mimosa Festival...and typically in this area,
everything is criticized again and again until the next festival year.
History
The Novi film festival is special story. Significant artists arrive, important films can be seen, and many people are welcomed. The Divas
also arrive, and it is always glamorous, and with a touch of Novi: hospitable and benevolent.
The town was founded in 1382, when the Bosnian Ban,
King Tvrtko I Kotromanić, settled himself in Topaljski Bay,
with the intention of giving this settlement of trade, sea
and craftsmanship, a greater importance and role. He
called the fortified town – Saint Stefan. Today’s name was
given during rule of Herzog Stjepan, when the town experienced its greatest wealth and development. Different
nations and civilizations occupied this town, leaving deep
marks in the culture and overall heritage of the town: the
Turks, Venetians, Russians, French, and Austrians...The rich
monumental heritage of Herceg Novi is the result of this
permeation of different nations and cultures, which met
one another, altered and clashed through history... There
are 89 churches in the territory of the Municipality of Herceg Novi (75 orthodox and 14 catholic), and there are12
more locations, where the remains of churches are being
archeologically researched.
The sea, the sea...
The Herceg Fest, the Archive of Herceg Novi, the County
Museum and Town Library are all in Herceg Novi.
The sea? The sea in Novi is as clear as a “gold coin from the past”! The
currents that race through the waters of Boka Kotorska clean all the
dirt and take it away into the blue open sea. Subterranean waters
helped by the filtering of sea foam, and fingers can often be frozen
by its coldness, which is clear evidence of its health and beauty.
The fortifications are: Španjola, Kanli kula (Kanli tower), Sat
kula, Kula of Saint Jeronimo, Forte Mare and Citadela.
If you want to visit Novi, you must have shoes for every occasion. You
need shoes for running up and down the stairs, for walking on the
seafront, for evening, for day. And you will leave Novi with a richer
spirit, better perception and a healthier view of the world. And with
a true identity – with the help of the bay magic, everyone is transformed into one’s own carnival hero, into their true self!
Mamula
The island of Lastavica is situated at the entrance to Boka
Bay. There is an abandoned fort on it, called Mamula, and
it is one of the best preserved and largest Austrian fortifications in the Adriatic. It is characterized by its sheer size,
outstanding precision of construction and perfect functionality of shapes. It is 3.4 nautical miles away from Herceg
Novi and round in shape with a diameter of around 200
meters. Access through its little port and miniature beach is at the north side of the island, while the coast on
the other sides is inapproachable and steep, and the sea
deep. According to its architecture, Mamula is known as
the most beautiful fort in the Balkans. It was built in the
middle of the XIX century by the Austrian General and
Dalmatian Regent, the Baron Lazar Mamula. That is where
the name of the fort comes from. Baron Mamula was also
the Best Man at the wedding of the famous Montenegrin
Duke, Danilo Petrović.
PROIZVODNJA:
Majevička br. 18
Tel: + 382 20 262 277
81000 Podgorica
Crna Gora
www.doding.co.me
SHOW ROOM:
Cetinjski put bb
(preko puta Delta city-ja)
Mob: +382 69 018 181
Tel: + 382 20 290 290
Notes from the South –
The Sea Urchin (echinus esculentus)
Bristly Ecologists
Text: Marta Planinić
Photographs: Dragan Gačević
The first sign of clear seawater is this Sea Urchin with black pricks. It can be easily spotted in the
shallow water.We respect it because we fear its pricks, but the urchin is not only a small, sea monster
I
t is very unpleasant to “find” the sea urchin barefoot. Swimmers
and other visitors to the beaches need to know that olive oil
sooths the pierced skin, and that the spikes can be taken out
far more easily from the heel or toes, with the help of oil.
Over 800 kinds of urchins are known in the world. The inhabitants
of the Adriatic Sea are: the sea urchin with long spikes, and the
violet, dwarf, cliff, and crimson urchins.
Bilješke s juga – morski jež (Echinus esculentus)
Bodljikavi ekolozi
Tekst: Marta Planinić
Foto: Dragan Gačević
Prvi znak čiste i nezagađene morske vode jeste domaći jež sa crnim bodljama. Lako se uoči u
plićaku. Uvažavamo ga jer se bojimo njegovih bodlji, ali jež nije samo malo morsko čudovište
V
eoma je neprijatno „pronaći” ježa golim stopalom. Plivači i
svi ostali posjetioci plaža, treba da nauče, jednom zasvagda, da maslinovo ulje umiruje ubod - bodlje ježa se uz tretman uljem, lakše povade iz bolnog mjesta.
Na svijetu je poznato više od 800 vrsta morskih ježeva. U Jadranskom moru žive: dugobodlji morski turban, ljubičasti, patuljasti,
hridni, maleni i grimizni jež.
Morski ježevi su najčešće veliki od 6 do 12 cm, mada se mogu naći
i pravi „džinovi” koji narastu i do 36 cm! Bodljikavi vragolani mogu
živjeti i do 30 ljeta. Njihovo kretanje je kuriozitet među morskim
bićima: u tijelu ježa postoje neobični kanali i sistemi cjevčica, koji
se kroz mjehove – ampule pune morskom vodom pod pritiskom
i usaglašenim djelovanjem višebrojnih kanala ili „nožica” gospodin
jež se polako, ali sigurno kreće – u stranu!
Sa donje strane tijela ima usta u kojima se nalazi pet trouglastih
zubića. Na ježevom meniju najčešće su alge, koje „pase” po podvodnim stijenama, a pojedine vrste su čak grabežljivci. Ova bockasta bića, najčešće nastanjuju kamenita i pješčana dna, kao i livade
morskih cvjetnica. Gospodičić morski jež diše „vodenim plućima”.
72
Ovi naši, domaći ili jestivi ježevi, poznati kao Echinus esculentus,
veliki su oko 16 cm, visoko zasvođeni, pravilnog su i sferičnog
oblika, od crvene do „zift” crne boje. U mondenskoj gastronomiji
prilično su popularni. Otvaraju se specijalnim alatom. Kašičicom
se vadi ikra iz ježevih gonada – unutrašnjih režnjeva, maže se na
tost i polagano jede. Ukus je, ne treba ni reći, vrlo poseban.
Ako nekom padne na pamet da ih lovi u domaćem plićaku, neophodna je opreznost. Ne samo zbog bodlji koje nezgodno ubadaju već i zbog činjenice da su među ježevima samo ženke ukusne! One imaju ikru, dok mužjaci nemaju ama baš ništa! Ženke se
prepoznaju po „nakitu”. „Ukrašavaju se” kamenčićima, školjkama i
morskim algama. One su šesnije i veselije od muških primjeraka.
Našem oku ne izgledaju privlačno jer djeluju neuredno. Ali, zato
i opstaju.
Preporučujemo: napuštene ježeve oklope koristiti kao ukras, suvenir ili pokloniti dragima za dar. Ježeve jedite ako baš morate! A
u more ulazite ili sa maskom za ronjenje ili sa prikladnom obućom. Kad ugledate ježa, budite zahvalni što je more još uvijek
čisto i mirisno... To je ljepota o kojoj treba brinuti... Uozbiljimo se i
dalje brinimo o našem moru!
Sea urchins are usually between 6 and 12 centimeters long, although true “giants”, up to 36 centimeters, can also be found! The
expected life span of these spiky rogues is 30 years. Their movement is a curiosity among sea creatures: there are unusual
channels and a system of pipes in the urchin’s body, which are
filled with seawater through bellows – ampullas. The harmonized
action of numerous of these channels or “legs” enables the Urchin
to move slowly, but always sideways!
The sea urchin has a mouth with five triangular teeth on the lower
side of the body. His menu normally consists of algae, which he
grazes on submarine rocks. Certain species are even predators.
These spiky creatures most commonly occupy rocky and sandy
sea-beds, as well as lawns of sea flowers.
Our local, or edible urchins are known as Echinus esculentus.
They are 16 centimeters long, spherical in shape, and vary in
color from red to darkest black. Sea urchins are very popular in
everyday gastronomy. They are opened with special tools. Roe
is taken out of their “gonadals” – or internal lobes, with a small
spoon, then put over toast. Needless to say, the taste is very special.
If anyone plans to hunt them in the local shallow waters, caution is recommended. Not only because of the spikes that are
unpleasantly prickly, but also because of the notorious fact that
only the females are tasty! They have roe, while the males have
none! Females can be recognized by their “ornaments”. They
“adorn themselves” with small stones, seashells and algae. They
seem more cheerful than the males. However, female urchins are
unattractive to the human eye, since they look very messy. But
that is the reason they survive. We recommend the following:
use abandoned urchin’s shells as an ornament, souvenir or gift.
Do not eat the urchins unless you really have to! Go into the sea
with either a diving mask, or appropriate shoes. When you see
the sea urchin, be grateful that the sea is still so clear. That is really
the natural beauty, which should be taken care of with attention
and respect... So please, be serious and take care of our sea!
NOVO
NEW
ADVERTISING AGENCY &
PRINTING DEVELOPMENT
OFFSET &
DIGITAL PRINT
SUPPORTED BY
Bulevar Josipa Broza Tita bb
Stari Aerodrom
81000 Podgorica
mail: [email protected]
tel: +382 78 11 33 33
fax: +382 78 11 33 34
‘’Elegance is not about being noticed, it’s about being remembered.’’
‘’Elegantan ne znači biti primijećen, već biti upamćen’’.
Habeeb Akande
Marka Radovića 16
81 000 Podgor ica
Montenegro
e-mail: [email protected]
Ph: +382 20 210 925
www.dpc.co.me
Moderan i jednostavan, a istovremeno primjetno sofisticiran,
Hotel AUREL obecava boravak za pamcenje.
Smjesten u novoizgradjenoj poslovnoj zoni Podgorice, u blizini centra
grada, idealan je kako za poslovne, tako i za goste koji dolaze na
odmor.
Izuzetno prostrane sobe predstavljaju pravi ugodjaj prozimajuci prijatnu i toplu atmosferu vrhunskim tehnoloskim kreacijama. Dodatni
hotelski sadrzaji i besprekorna usluga samo ce dodatno rasplamsati
Vas dozivljaj boravka ovdje.
U AUREL-u mozete organizovati bilo koju vrstu dogadjaja. Nasa visenamjenska sala je mjesto gdje se posao i zadovoljstvo spajaju.
Olaksajte svoj radni dan sa nekoliko pauza i uzivajte u svjezoj kafi,
soku ili nekom slatkisu na terasi restorana, gdje cemo pripremiti osvjezenje za Vas.
Bilo da dolazite zbog posla ili odmora, blizina Wellness i Spa centra
je uvijek prednost. Nakon dugog radnog dana ili tokom vikend pauze,
svako ce se rado prepustiti carolijama ove oaze mira i relaksacije.
Modern and simple, but at the same time notably sophisticated,
Hotel AUREL promises a memorable stay.
Located in a newly built business zone of Podgorica, in the very
vicinity of the city center, it is ideal for both leisure and business
travelers.
Exceptionally spacious rooms unite highest technology creations and
comfortably pleasant aura. Additional hotel offerings and premier
service are here just to kindle the already glowing experience of your
stay.
Any kind of happening can be easily held in AUREL’s event venue.
Our multipurpose hall is a place where business and pleasure meet.
Ease your working day with few breaks and enjoy the fresh coffee,
juice or some sweet at the restaurant terrace, where we will arrange
the refreshment for you.
Either you are coming for business or leisure, the proximity of
Wellness & Spa centre is always a positive feature. After a long
working day or during the weekend break, everyone will definitely
conform to the magic of this peace and relaxation oasis.
Zbliziti se predstavlja pocetak;
ostati zajedno je napredak; raditi zajedno je uspjeh.
Coming together is a beginning;
keeping together is progress; working together is success.
Henry Ford
Henry Ford
www.hotel-aurel.com
GALERIJA – oldtajmeri u Podgorici
Te divne, divne
kreacije…
Ponos
garaže
Mercedes 280 SE (w 108)
Rolls Royce Silver Shadow I
Alfa Romeo GT 1300 Junior
Alfa Romeo Spider S4
Renault 8 Gordini
BMW 2002
Peugeot 204 …
Tekst: Nada Bukilić
Fotografije: Relja Eraković
„Jedina razlika između dječaka i odraslog muškarca jeste u njihovoj igrački”, to je stara šala o
„nepodnošljivoj lepršavosti” muškoga života! Koliko je „nepodnošljiv” život sirotih muškaraca,
svjedoči istom pošalicom sam gospodin Ivan Suhih, vlasnik garaže za oldtajmere, ne bez one
šarmantne muške samodovoljnosti. Sa druge strane, razumjeti strast i iskrenu privrženost
lijepim četvorotočkašima, znači razumjeti ljepotu i snagu ljudske kreativnosti; to što automobili
imaju svoju svrhu, tj. praktičnu, upotrebnu vrijednost, ne smeta nikom – pa ni podnošljivoj
jednostavnosti ženske čeljadi – da u njima vide ljepotu i, time, umjetnost!
K
ad jedna žena uđe u garažu u kojoj se čuvaju, izlažu, njeguju, maze i paze prelijepi stari automobili, jasno je da
će prvo uočiti boje ovih ljepotana. Crveni, plavi, crni…
Nakon boje, na redu su forme, linije, zasvođenost, detalji..., a
onda i godine! Automobili su poput vina – što stariji to bolji!
Naravno, ne svi automobili!
Opsjednutost automobilima počela je davno – još u praistoriji,
samo tada se automobil zvao toljaga. Mnogo kasnije dobio je
ime konj, i kao konj trajao je sve dok se neki pametni čovjek nije
dosjetio i napravio prvi automobil!
Danas su ti prvi automobili rijetkost i u svijetu – muškarci se
nisu odmah sjetili da se igračke ne bacaju, niti daju drugima!
Upravo to – duge godine kroz koje traju – automobilima daje
posebnu draž i čini ih otmenom gospodom među prevoznim
sredstvima. Međutim, baš kao što je slučaj sa muškarcima, da bi
jedan stari automobil postao oldtajmer, mora sem godina imati
i druge karakteristike; mora biti u voznom stanju, dakle – aktivan, njegovan, uredan i elegantan, sa prefinjenim detaljima koji
upotpunjuju kompletnu sliku i, naravano, ljudskom rukom napravljen i ulickan do punog sjaja! A kad se upali i klizne cestom,
za sobom smije ostaviti samo uzdahe posmatrača!
Zašto ih volimo?
Zašto oldtajmeri? Zašto opsjednutost tim „banalnim”
stvarima, koje služe da vas prevezu iz tačke A u tačku
B? Šta je to što ih razlikuje od modernih automobila? Pa,
zaboga, oni imaju istu namjenu...
Možda zato što imaju ime i prezime? Kada kažete David,
to ne znači ništa, a kada kažete Mikelanđelov David, rekli
ste sve! Isto tako, Ferrari ne bi bio to što jeste da ga nisu
nacrtali Pininfarina, Vignale, Bertone..., da ga od lima nije
izvajao Scaglietti i da mu snagu nisu podarili Colombo i
Lampredi..., a sve pod dirigentskom palicom starog gunđala, nepodnošljivog karaktera, Enza Ferrarija.
Ili, možda, samo zato što žalimo za vremenima kada smo
bili malo više ljudi, a malo manje mašine…
Igor Mitrić
U car storageu, tj. garaži koja, zasada jedina u ovom dijelu Evrope,
sem brige za skupe i još skuplje automobile ima i izložbeni dio
za te skupocjene, posebne i nadasve lijepe primjerke, dočekaće
vas gospodin Igor Mitrić, koji o automobilima zna sve! Mitrić je
zato čovjek za sve – glavni menadžer i organizator svih poslova u garaži. Dijeleći sa gospodinom Suhihom istu strast prema
automobilima, Mitrić traga za dobro očuvanim „starcima”, liječi
ih i sređuje, nabavlja nedostajuće dijelove – uvijek originalne
proizvodnje i uvijek istog godišta kao što su automobili..., jer u
cijeloj priči autentičnost i originalnost garant su vrijednosti!
„Mene fascinira činjenica da je svaki od naših automobila kreiran, stvaran, izrađen i oblikovan ljudskom rukom, nisu napravljeni na fabričkim trakama, napravili su ih ljudi, a ne roboti. Dizajnirali su ih takođe ljudi sa imenom i prezimenom, a ne timovi
predvođeni marketinškim stručnjacima... Odnosno, na svakom
od oldtajmera prepoznajete ljubav sa kojom su izrađivani, maštu
koja ih je stvorila, trud koji je u njih uložen i to, prosto, morate cijeniti. Oni odišu romantikom i nostalgijom, sjaje kao ona dobra,
optimistična strana života i uz to simbolizuju izuzetnost i moć,
kakvu priželjkuje svaki čovjek”, objašnjava Mitrić.
I, zbilja, kada osmotrite ove uparađene ljepotane, shvatite zašto
su automobili u brojnim filmovima maltene glavni akteri, zašto
se ni muzički spotovi bez njih ne mogu snimiti i zašto, konačno,
jedna garaža može da bude vrhunski izložbeni prostor ili ponajbolja scena za performanse i alternativne predstave ili manifestacije.
A razumjećete i zašto na svim sajmovima, bilo oldtajmera bilo
modernih drumskih čudovišta, automobile prezentuju i reklamiraju – žene! Ništa nije tako lako spojivo kao lijep, skup automobil i lijepe ženske noge! One iste noge zbog kojih se od doba
toljage na ovamo, kroz vjekovne napore, sva muška mašta urotila da stvori najpouzdaniji simbol moći! I, očigledno, uspjela!
Zato, čuvajte svoje igračke!
Do posljednjeg daha
Automobilska industrija danas je pravi primjer globalizacije.
Nekoliko platformi na kojima su na stotine modela... Razlikuju
se po značkama, obliku žmigavaca, dezenu tkanine na sjedištima..., Suština – ista. Dosadno. Amerikanci dizajniraju italijanske
automobile, Italijani proizvode američke automobile, Njemci
proizvode i prodaju stogodišnju britansku tradiciju, Francuzi i
Japanci su se udružili i proizvode rumunske automobile... Posljednje oaze ručne izrade polako gutaju velike korporacije i
investicioni fondovi...
Šta je sa nama običnim ljudima koji smo voljeli japanske automobile zato što su neprimjetni, ali funkcionalni i pouzdani;
francuske zbog njihovog šarma i ekscentričnosti, zbog suludih
tehničkih rješenja koja su nam zagorčavala život; italijanske
zbog ljepote, brzine, fantastičnog zvuka i tradicionalne nepouzdanosti, koja je običan put pretvarala u putešestvije; njemačke zbog praktičnosti, kvaliteta i onog osjećaja teutonske pouzdanosti i istrajnosti...?
Nama ostaje da bježimo u naše male svjetove – baš kao dječaci
koji se igraju sa svojim autićima – i da odbijemo da odrastemo
i postanemo dio mase koja misli tuđom glavom.
Pa, dok istrajemo...
Igor Mitrić
GALLERY – old-timers in
Podgorica
Those
beautiful
creations...
Text: Nada Bukilić
Photography: Relja Eraković
“The only difference between a boy and
a grown man is in their toys”, goes an old
joke about the “unbearable frivolity” of
male life! Mr. Ivan Suhih, the owner of
a garage for old-timers, used the same
joke about the unbearable of life of poor
men without that charming aspect of
male self-sufficiency. On the other hand,
to understand the passion and sincere
devotion to these fine four-wheeled
machines means to understand the beauty
and strength of human creativity. The
fact that cars have their purpose, or
practical usage, prevents no one – not
even females – from seeing the beauty in
them, and thus, the art!
Pride of the garage
Mercedes 280 SE (w 108); Rolls Royce Silver Shadow I; Alfa
Romeo GT 1300 Junior; Alfa Romeo Spider S4; Renault 8
Gordini; BMW 2002; Peugeot 204 …
Why do we
love them?
The obsession with cars began long ago – back in prehistoric times, only that in those times the car was called a club. Much later,
it was known as the horse, and remained the horse until some
clever man had a great idea and made the first car!
Why do we love them? Why do we have this obssesion
with those „banal“ things, which serve to transport you
from point A to point B? What makes them so different
from modern cars? For God’s sake, they all have the same
purpose. Maybe because they have their name and surname? When you say David, it means nothing, but when
you say Michelangelo’s David, you have said it all! Just as
well, Ferrari would not be what it is now, if it had not been
drawn by Pininfarina, Vignale, Bertone...if Scagletti hadn’t
sculpted it from metal, and Colombo and Lampredi hadn’t
gave it the power...and if it all hadn’t been conducted by an
old grumbler, an unbearable character called Enzo Ferrari.
Or, maybe it is just because we miss the times when we
were more human, and less like machines.
Today, those first cars are rare, even in a world where men don’t
accept the idea that toys should not be thrown away or given to
others! It is precisely those long years that give the cars their special charm and make them elegant gentlemen among vehicles.
However, just like with men, in order to call an old car an old-timer, it has to have some other characteristics besides age; it has
to be drivable, taken care of, neat and elegant, with sophisticated
details which complete the overall picture, and of course, it has
to be hand-made and slicked up to full glow! And when you start
the car, and it begins to glide down the road, the only thing that
has to be left behind is the sighs of any passers-by!
Mr. Igor Mitrić, who knows everything there is to know about cars,
will welcome you into the garage that is for the time being, the
only of its kind in this part of Europe. It features an exhibition section for these valuable, special and above all, beautiful examples
of expensive and even more expensive cars! Mitrić is, therefore,
the man for everything, or the chief manager and organizer of
all the activities in the garage. Sharing the same passion for cars
with Mr. Suhih, Mitrić is constantly searching for yet more wellpreserved “old men”. He then restores and fixes them, provides
the missing parts – always original, and always of the same age as
W
hen a woman enters the garage where these beautiful old cars are stored, exhibited, cared for, cuddled
and pampered, it is clear that the first thing she will
notice is the color of those beauties. Red, blue, black... After the
color, the forms, lines, arching, and other details will be noticed
and finally their age! Cars are like wine – the older, the better! But
of course, not all cars!
81
the cars...because authenticity and originality are the guarantee
of value in this story!
“I am fascinated by the fact that each of our cars was created,
made, produced and shaped by human hand...they were made
on factory production lines, but by men, not robots. Those cars
were also designed by individuals who had their own name and
surname, and not by teams headed by advertising experts... This
means that on every old-timer you can recognize the love they
were made with, the imagination that created them, the effort
invested, and you simply must respect that. They exude romanticism and nostalgia, and shine like the good, optimistic side of life,
symbolizing power and exquisiteness, something that every man
desires”, explains Mitrić.
And certainly when you look closely at those dressed up goodlookers, you understand why some cars are almost the main characters in numerous films, why music promotional spots could
not be made without them, and why a garage can be an excellent
exhibition space or the best possible scene for performances and
alternative shows or other events. And you will also understand
why at all fairs of old-timers or modern road monsters, the cars
are very often presented and advertised by – women! There is
no better match than a beautiful, expensive car and the beautiful
legs of an attractive woman! The same legs which have inspired
all male imagination, from the prehistoric club until today, through centuries of effort, and thus conspired to create the most
reliable symbol of power with great success!
So, take care of your toys!
Till the last breath
The car industry today is a real example of globalization.
There are a number of platforms on which hundreds of
models are placed...they differ only by brand, the shape of
the indicator lights, design of the fabric on the seats...in a
word they are all the same and boring. Americans design
Italian cars, Italians produce American cars, Germans produce and sell British tradition, the French and Japanese
joined up and sell Rumanian cars...the last oases of handmade cars are being slowly swallowed up by large corporations and investment funds.
What about us, ordinary people, who loved Japanese cars
because they were invisible, but functional and reliable;
French because of their charm and eccentricity, featuring
crazy technical innovations that made our lives miserable;
Italian because of their beauty, speed, fantastic sound and
traditional unreliability, which turned an ordinary trip into
an adventure; German because of their practicality, quality
and that feeling of Teutonic reliability and perseverance...?
All we have left is to escape into our own small worlds –
just like boys playing with their toy cars – and to refuse to
grow up and become part of the crowd that thinks with
someone else’s head. As long as we can keep it that way!
Igor Mitrić
trideset godina Nacionalnog parka
Skadarsko jezero
MOĆNA BAJKA
O NAMA
Lesendro
Sva mjesta i ostrva na Skadarskom jezeru imaju svoje priče
i legende. Jedne su ljubavne i nježne, druge su tragične ili
osvetničke, a ima i onih koje su Pokrajvođani smišljali radi
šale i smijeha, da prekrate dan ili sivu zimu.
No, za Lesendro, jezersko ostrvo sa utvrđenjem na njemu,
direktno je vezana jedna priča o Njegošu.
Tekst: Nata Prelević
Fotografije: Duško Miljanić
Svi volimo Skadarsko jezero i svi imamo svoje razloge za tu ljubav. A ljubav treba slaviti!
Ove godine za tu proslavu imamo i lijep povod: upravo se navršilo trideset godina od kada
su jezero, njegova ostrva i priobalje proglašeni Nacionalnim parkom Crne Gore
N
esaglediva ljepota i neprocjenjivo bogatstvo osnovne
su karakteristike Skadarskog jezera – njegovo drugo
ime, i to bez pretjerivanja. Nešto malo više od 8% crnogorske teritorije zauzimaju nacionalni parkovi, koji su, u stvari,
nacionalni ponos, ali i osnove za neke nove, drugačije, brojnije
i raskošnije mogućnosti. Skadarsko jezero je i među njima sasvim posebno: ne postoji oblik rada, zanimanja, razonode…,
niti ima umjetničke forme, za koje ovo jezero ne bi moglo pružiti neophodne uslove i bogatu scenu.
Ranije je Skadarsko jezero bilo manje površine od današnjeg, a ostrva koja sada vidimo bijahu tek vrhovi brežuljaka između kojih su se prostirala plodna, zelena polja. Na
jednom od bregova, na Lesendru, još prije Njegoša počela
je gradnja tvrđave... U Njegoševo doba Žabljak Crnojevića
već je bio naseljen gradić i, poput ostalih naseljenih mjesta, za ukus vladike, previše povezan sa svakodnevicom.
A Lesendro je, u svojoj izdvojenosti, pružao utočište i kao
takav bio baš ono mjesto za kojim je žudio pjesnik… Zato
je Njegoš dovršio gradnju tvrđave, siguran da će na osamljenom Lesendru biti miran i svoj.
Ali, brzo je nezaustavljiva turska vojska osvojila Lesendro.
Pogođen na više načina, poražen i tužan, vladika je sa Crnogorcima učinio sve da povrati tvrđavu, ali za života to
nije uspio… Od tada, za nekog ko je ojađen i duboko razočaran narod kaže: „Izgorje ka’ vladika za Lesendrom”.
Tajanstvenom silom oblikovano, rukom nekom nečujnom i
nevidljivom u naš krš uklesano, Skadarsko jezero je višeznačno kolijevka Crne Gore. Njegovo srce je srce naše domovine.
Sve naše dinastije su, na ovaj ili onaj način, vezane za njegovu
vodu i njegova ostrva. Od Sv. Vladimira Dukljanskog naovamo, sve naše velike priče, odsudni događaji, najromantičniji i
najtajanstveniji valeri života brojnih generacija, iznjivili su se i
odgajili uz jezero i obronke njegovih planina zaštitnica. I ma u
koje stoljeće zavirili, ma koje njegove događaje, ličnosti i život
proučavali, kazaće vam se kako su i gdje nikli i rascvjetali se
najplemenitiji cvjetovi crnogorske tradicije i kulture.
„Nepregledni vijenci planinskih vrhova, koji se, nadvisujući sve
ostalo, nižu ka daljini, jutarnja izmaglica nad vodom i njena
ćudljiva narav, gnijezda u trsci i lagano klizanje čunova, širokokrili pelikani i usamljene crkvice na rasijanim ostrvcima, miris ribe i glasovi ptica..., sve su to, pojedinačno i ukupno, lica
Skadarskog jezera”, opisuje direktor Nacionalnih parkova Crne
Gore, Zoran Mrdak. „Ako tome dodate kulturnu baštinu koju
čuvaju jezerska ostrva, posebnosti koje čine veliki dio našeg
duhovnog i istorijskog bogatstva, kuriozitete poput bisera sa
Rijeke Crnojevića ili usoljene ukljeve koju smo izvozili za nekadašnje bogate trpeze mletačke gospode – vaša slika o jezeru
upotpuniće se, razumjećete njegov značaj, ali ni tada nećete
do kraja spoznati sve njegove vrijednosti. Drugim riječima: kad
provedete na jezeru samo jedan jedini dan, mnogo šta možete
doživjeti, ali i da cijelog svog života dolazite jezeru, opet će biti
dovoljno onoga što tek treba vidjeti i upoznati…”
I zbilja: od kestenovih šuma na Ostrosu, crkve Prečiste Krajinske i stare tvrđave Besac iznad Virpazara, pa preko Lesendra i
Žabljaka Crnojevića, Beške, Grmožura i cijele niske malih ostrvaca, sve do živopisne Rijeke Crnojevića i Oboda nad njom,
odnosno – od jedne hiljadugodišnje ljubavne priče, preko
dragulja naše kulture „Oktoiha prvoglasnika”, sve do skromnih
ribarskih čunova što mile pod mostom riječkog grada, kao nikad okončanu bajku o nama i našoj zemlji, kazuje i pjevuši jezerska voda – jednako s proljeća kao u poznu jesen, istovjetno
u ranu zoru i pred zalazak sunca, moćno kroz dubinu i kroz
blistavu površinu nebeskog zrcala.
Klica života
Sjeveroistočni dio jezera močvaran je (otuda u narodu za jezero ime Veliko blato), a ta naša močvara uvrštena je na Ramsar
listu močvara, najvažnijih u svijetu. Zato što se u biologiji upravo močvare smatraju mjestom, tj. uslovom nastanka života.
One su najsličnije uslovima na Zemlji kakvi su bili prije ko zna
koliko miliona godina kada se zametnulo prvo jajašce novog
živog bića. Otuda je Skadarsko jezero tzv. hot pot – centar biodiverziteta, sama klica života.
Močvara je rodila život, a nama je jezero omogućilo opstanak
i trajanje.
Ptice
Skadarsko jezero je najveće jezero, ali i najveći rezervoar pitke
vode na Balkanu. Morača i druge rijeke ulivaju se u jezero, a
„višak” vode k moru odnosi Bojana. Upravo to je omogućavalo
i trgovačke karavane vodenim putevima, pa je Crna Gora preko jezera imala veze sa cijelim svijetom. Zanatlije sa darom su
odvajkada izrađivali čunove, specifične čamce koji su pogodni
za plovidbu jezerom, a kojima se moglo prevesti mnogo robe
i ljudi. Nama se sada čini kako je romantično ploviti s jedne na
drugu obalu jezera, a, u stvari, taj vodeni put štedi vrijeme i
olakšava kontakt ljudi sa svih strana jezera...
Raznovrsnost biljnog i životinjskog svijeta uveličavaju kormorani, čija kolonija broji 5 000 jedinki i druga je po veličini na
svijetu. Inače, 40 000 zimujućih ptica ima dom na Skadarskom
jezeru. Tu su i pelikani, njih pedesetak, i jezero je najzapadnije gnjezdilište pelikana u Evropi. Pelikan je neobična ptica,
specifična i po svojoj građi i po načinu ishrane, po letjenju, selidbama..., pa je postao simbol našeg jezera. Baš radi pelikana
se i preduzimaju posebne mjere zaštite ptica – cilj je da im se
omogući nesmetano gniježđenje i gajenje mladih, sa nadom
da će ih biti sve više. Ali, i među drugim pticama ima veoma
interesantnih i rijetkih vrsta. Otuda je Skadarsko jezero zanimljivo i mnogim turistima koji vole posmatranje ptica i koji
radi njih dolaze sa raznih strana svijeta. Npr. da vide čaplje na
Omerovoj gorici…
Od biljnog svijeta je najzanimljiviji lokvanj – pravi ukras jezera,
zatim trska – čitavi nizovi visoke trske, ali i drveće koje je ljeti
maltene na kopnu, a već od rane jeseni živi u dubokoj vodi…
85
Najljepšom plažom na Skadarskom jezeru mnogi smatraju Murićku plažu, koja se nalazi lijevo od Virpazara, tamo
u podnožju Ostrosa i divnih kestenovih šuma. Restoran i
vrijedni ljudi koji se silno trude da posjetiocima pruže najtopliji ugođaj, skrovitost i osobenost ove jezerske ljepotice,
čine Murićku plažu jednom od najomiljenijih lokacija na
Skadarskom jezeru. Do nje se stiže i kopnenim putem, ali je
ljepše doputovati barkom ili čunom, koje je moguće iznajmiti na više mjesta u priobalju. Najorganizovanije ture su
one koje kreću sa obale živopisnog i minijaturnog grada
„na tri mosta” – Virpazara
ma i zahtjevima turista. Turista najčešće želi da na svojoj koži
osjeti čistu vodu, da takvu pije, da okusi ribu upravo ulovljenu
pred njegovim očima…, želi da se provoza čunom od ostrvca
do ostrva i da pred zalazak sunca sluša i osmatra ptice..., tj. želi
sve suprotno od onoga što već ima u svakodnevnom životu;
želi: kompletan mir u kojem će moći da se odmori u pravom
smislu, da vidi i doživi novo, upozna istoriju i kulturu i tako
se vrati sopstvenoj ljudskosti i sopstvenoj prirodi… Ljudima,
u stvari, treba da omogućimo da upoznavajući se sa nama i
našim jezerom upoznaju sami sebe i svoje mogućnosti. Jer,
ako negdje na našoj obali ili za stolom kod neke naše domaćice dožive lijepe trenutke i uživaju, ljudi će nam se vraćati. Od
toga samo možemo imati koristi, posebno oni koji i inače žive
od jezera i za jezero…”
Na ostrvcima raste raznovrsno grmlje i cvijeće, lovor, oleandri
i divlji nar..., a mještani i stručnjaci iz Nacionalnog parka mogu
vas posavjetovati gdje, kako i kad da sakupite gljiva i ljekovitog
bilja, kojih ima i na ostrvima i u priobalju…
Za sve to nijesu potrebni hoteli od betona i stakla, niti pozlaćene česme i porculanske kutije za sapune. Za to su potrebni
pedantnost, urednost, čisti putevi i staze, čista i na sigurnom
čuvana hrana, organsko voće i povrće, domaća vina i domaća
jela, organizovanost i – ljubazni domaćini…
Plaža
U vodi su takođe brojne vrste riba, među kojima su na najvišoj
cijeni jegulje, ukljeve i šaran, tj. krap. Usoljene ukljeve ili
prirodno sušene nekada su odvožene vodenim putevima
sve do Venecije, gdje su bile veoma popularne na bogatim
trpezama razmažene i slatkorane gospode. Slične po jačini
ukusa inćunima, ukljeve ištu dobro vino, koje je, gle čuda,
ovdje izuzetnog kvaliteta. Domaća crna vina iz Crmnice među
najtraženijima su. Međutim, vino ćete piti i ako u nekom od
nacionalnih restorana naručite krapa sa suvim šljivama…
Raj za turiste
Skadarsko jezero je naš ponos, ali i velika mogućnost za razvijanje turizma. Onog posebnog turizma, koji je sasvim usklađen
sa prirodom i koji ne ide na uštrb njenih primarnih svojstava.
Turizma koji se samorazvija i samoreklamira već postojećim vrijednostima nedirnute prirode i koji nudi svakom gostu izobilje
načina da tu prirodu doživi neposredno, izvorno, baš onako
kako je iznikla i izrasla sama pod kapom nebeskom… Sačuvati
jezero i njegovu okolinu u tom prirodnom stanju, sačuvati biljnom i životinjskom svijetu potrebne uslove, ne dati da otpad
industijske svakodnevice unakazi čisto lice vode, da polomi
krila našim pticama i otruje ribe, osnovni je zadatak zaposlenih
u Nacionalnom parku. Sektor koji se bavi turističkom valorizacijom Skadarskog jezera i ostalih nacionalnih parkova, pod
rukovodstvom je gospodina Miloša Vojvodića, čovjeka koji
svoju misiju u potpunosti zasniva baš na tim ciljevima:
„I prije nego stranac stupi nogom na crnogorsko tlo, kad još iz
aviona baci pogled dolje, vidjeće plavetnilo Skadarskog jezera.
To je naša prva slika u očima stranca i nema razloga da ne
ostane jednako lijepa kao što je sada. Mi ne možemo i ne treba
da nudimo ništa što je slično razvikanom, industrijalizovanom,
asfaltiranom i betoniranom svijetu. Moramo samo uskladiti
prirodno bogatstvo i uslove koje nude mještani u svojim kućama i malim privatnim motelima, kao i hotelske uslove, sa želja86
***
Na jezeru je moguće organizovati turističke posjete gotovo
devet mjeseci godišnje. Prilično blaga klima garantuje topla
proljeća i nezahtjevne jeseni, a ljeti je jezero i tako vrlo slično
moru i, pride, pošteđeno gužve i drugih pretjerivanja. Crna
Gora nije teritorijalno velika i njeni nacionalni parkovi lako su
međusobno povezivi, pa i ta okolnost poboljšava turističku
ponudu. Samo kod nas je moguće ujutru skijati na planini,
a popodne se izležavati na obali jezera i uživati u dobro pripremljenom jelu… Sezona ribolova, posmatranje ptica,
Put brašna
Ka granici sa Albanijom, blizu linije koja jezero dijeli na
naše i albansko, nalazi se Porat, tj. pristanište gdje su ranije
pristajali brodovi i barke, najčešće trgovački. Porat pamti
vremena kada su u njemu pristajali brodovi koji su prevozili suvu ukljevu iz Rijeke Crnojevića, bisere, vino ili nadaleko poznato brašno od bijelog kukuruza, koji je bogato
rađao u zelenoj dolini. Mjereno je tzv. bagašom (mjerica
slična današnjoj širokoj, povećoj šolji), nakon što bi se žito
samljelo u nekom od brojnih mlinova u Poseljanima. Tu
vrstu brašna naši stari zvali su cikvantin. Je li samo priča,
ne znamo, ali postoji čvrsto uvjerenje da je cikvantin bio
izuzetno kvalitetan, do te mjere da i danas za nešto što je
posebno ukusno ljudi kažu „pravi cikvantin”. Takođe, Porat
je bio i prva luka u koju su mogli pristati brodovi pri povratku kući, u Crnu Goru. Takođe, Porat je bio i prva luka
u koju su mogli pristati rodovi pri povratku kući, u Crnu
Goru, donoseći sve ono što je nedostajalo i što je mala
država mogla sebi priuštiti. Danas je Porat najviše uspomena na doba aktivnog i atraktivnog plovnog puta kojim
je mala kneževina bila povezana sa svijetom...
biciklističke i pješačke staze, izleti do spomenika vjerske i istorijske vrijednosti, kulturne manifestacije, legende, slikarske kolonije, tradicionalna kuhinja…, sve što ljudi mogu dati drugim
ljudima jeste odgovornost današnjih generacija – jer su nam
one prethodne ostavile svu tu ljepotu i bogatstvo u nasljeđe.
Priroda pamti sve: i dobro i loše, i mala i velika djela… Ona je
veća od svih nas. Baš kao što je Skadarsko jezero veće od svih
drugih slika i priča o nama…
Ispod nivoa mora
Sem Poseljana, koji su poznati po mlinovima izgrađenim u
nizu, prelijepih Dodoša,Godinja, Vranjine…, posebno i neočekivano lijepo jeste malo selo Raduš. U Radušu je desetak
kuća koje i sada izgledaju onako kako su i prije 200 godina građene kuće u ovom kraju: debelih kamenih zidova, sa
uskim prozorima, sa popločanim stazama između njih... Ovu
autentičnu arhitekturu raduških kuća upotpunjuje i mali seoski pristan – lučica zaklonjena i od nevremena i od vremena. U Radušu se, nad krovovima kuća i između njihovih
zidova, lako osjeti dah prošlosti. One prošlosti kojoj ne treba
mistifikacija i kojoj ni mašta nema što dodati. Toliko je lijepo
ribarsko naselje Raduš...
A dolje, u jezeru, nedaleko od raduške lučice, nalazi se tzv.
ribolovno oko: tu je mjesto gdje se izlovljava mnogo ribe, ali
i gdje je najočiglednija kriptodepresija. Baš tu je dno jezera
ispod nivoa mora.
30th anniversary of
the National Park Skadar Lake
A POWERFUL
TALE OF US
Text: Nata Prelević / Miloš Vojvodić
Photography: Slaven Vilus, Duško Miljanić
We all love Skadar Lake and have our own
reasons for that. And love should be celebrated!
This year, we have very good reason to
celebrate: it is the 30th anniversary of the lake
its islands and the coastal area being declared a
National Park of Montenegro
I
mmeasurable beauty and priceless treasures are basic characteristics of the Skadar Lake, or its second name, without exaggeration. National parks occupy a little bit over 8% of all Montenegrin territory. They are, actually, a national pride, but also the basis
for some new, different, more numerous and luxurious possibilities.
Skadar Lake is even special among other national parks: there is not
an occupation, a form of entertainment...nor any artistic medium
that this lake could not provide the necessary conditions for.
Lesendro
Skadar Lake was shaped by some mystic force, and carved into our
rocky ground by some unheard and invisible hand, and thus is the
ambiguous cradle of Montenegro. Its heart is the heart of our homeland. All our former dynasties were one way or another, connected
to its water and islands. From Saint Vladimir Dukljanski till the present, all our great stories, decisive events, most romantic and most
mysterious tales and the values of the lives of numerous generations,
were born and raised by the lake and slopes of its protecting mountains. And no matter which century you look at, no matter which
events, people and lives you examine, you will see how and where
the noblest flowers of Montenegrin tradition and culture arose and
blossomed.
However, Lesendro, an island on the lake with a fortress on
it, is directly connected to a story about Njegoš:
“Boundless wreaths of the mountain tops which, surmounting
everything else, follow each other to a distance, morning mist over
the water and its moody nature, nests in the reeds and the smooth
gliding of dinghies, wide-winged pelicans and lonely churches on
scattered little islands, the smell of the fish and songs of the birds...
they are all, separately and together, the faces of Skadar lake”, describes the Director of the National Parks of Montenegro, Zoran Mrdak.
“If you add cultural heritage preserved by the lake islands, treasures
that make up a large part of our spiritual and historical wealth, curiosities, such as pearls from the Crnojevića River or salted bleaks, which
used to be exported to the rich tables of Venetian noblemen – your
picture of the lake will be fulfilled, you will able to understand its significance, but you will never fully conceive all its values. In other
words: when you spend only one day at the lake, you can experience
a lot, but even if you keep returning here for the rest of your life, there
will be an abundance of things you never see and encounter...”
And truly, from the chestnut woods in Ostros, the church of the Virgin in Krajina and the old castle of Besac above Virpazar, over Lesendro and Žabljak Crnojevića, Beška, Grmožur and all the line of small
islands, all the way to picturesque Crnojevića River and Obod above
it; or – from a thousand-year long love story, over the gem of our culture “Oktoih the First Voice”, all to modest fishing dinghies that crawl
under the bridge of the river town, like a fairytale about us and our
country that has no end, told and sung by the lake water – equally
in the spring and in the late fall, the same at the crack of dawn and
before the sunset, powerful through the depths and shiny surface of
the sky mirror.
Seed of life
The northeastern part of the lake is swampy (this is where the popular expression “Big Mud” came from), and the swamp is included
in the Ramsar list of swamps, as among the most important in the
world. Biologists consider swamps as places with those conditions
All the places and islands on Skadar Lake have their stories
and legends. Some are love and tender stories, other tragic and full of revenge, and there are also those made up
by the people living by the water just for fun and laughter,
to kill a lazy day or a grey winter.
In the past the surface area of Skadar Lake was smaller
than it is today, and many of the islands that we see today
were the tops of small hills, between which fertile, green
fields extended. Even before Njegoš’s time, the building
of a fortress had begun on one of the hills in Lesendro.
In Njegoš’s time, Žabljak Crnojevića was already a populated small town, and like other populated places, way too
much connected to everyday affairs for the Bishop’s taste.
But Lesendro provided sanctuary in its isolation, and as
such, was exactly the kind of place the poet in the Bishop
longed for. That is why Njegoš finished the construction of
the fortress, certain that in solitary Lesendro, he would be
able to live peacefully and on his own.
However, the unstoppable Turkish army quickly conquered Lesendro. The Bishop, who was badly affected by this,
defeated and sad, did all in his power, together with the
Montenegrins, to retake the fortress, but failed to do so
during his lifetime. From that time, the local people have
an expression for someone who is aggrieved and deeply
disappointed:”He longs for it, like the Bishop for Lesendro!”
necessary for the creation of life. Swamps are similar to the conditions on the Earth, who knows how many millions of years ago, when
the first egg of a new living creature was produces. This is the reason
why Skadar Lake is a so-called hot pot – a centre of biodiversity, the
very germ of life. The swamp gives birth to life and the lake enables
it to survive and last.
The Birds
Skadar Lake is the largest lake, and also the largest reservoir of drinking water in the Balkans. The Morača and other rivers flow into the
lake, and “excess” water is taken towards the sea by the Bojana River. Such conditions were favorable for trade by water, thus Montenegro was connected to the whole world through the lake. Gifted
craftsmen have always been making dinghies, special boats suitable
for sailing on the lake, which could carry a lot of people and goods.
Today, we believe that it is romantic to sail from one lake shore to
another, but actually, this “water road” saves time and facilitates contact between the people living on all sides of the lake.
The diversity of plant and animal life includes cormorants, whose colony consists of a total of 5,000 birds, and is the second largest colony
91
in the world. Besides that, 4.000 birds spend winters on Skadar Lake.
There are also pelicans, about fifty of them, and this lake is the most
westerly nesting site for pelicans in Europe. The pelican is an unusual
bird, specific in its build and manner of feeding, by its flight and migrations...thus, the pelican has become the symbol of our lake. The
pelican was exactly the reason why special measures for bird protection were introduced – the goal is to provide undisturbed nesting
and breeding with hope that there will be more of them. There are
also a large number of interesting and rare bird species. For that reason, the Skadar Lake is of great interest for many tourists that enjoy
bird watching, and thus arrive from all over the world. For example,
they come to see the egrets in Omerova gorica...
Among the plant life, the water lily is the most interesting plant – a
true ornament of the lake, then the reeds – all the lines of high reeds
and trees that are practically on the land during summer, and then
from early autumn, live in the deep water. A huge number of different bushes and flowers, and laurel, oleander and wild pomegranate,
also grow on the islands. The locals and experts from the National
Park can give you advice on where, how and when to collect mushrooms and medicinal herbs, that grow abundantly both on the
islands and on the shore.
Numerous kinds of fish live in the water, among which eels, bleak
and carp are the most valued. Salted bleaks, or naturally dried, used
to be transported by sea all the way to Venice, where they were
vastly popular on the rich tables of spoiled gourmet noblemen. Bleak resemble anchovies in taste, and they both require good wine,
which is, naturally of extraordinary quality here. Local, red wines from
Crmnica are among the most demanded. However, you will also get
wine if you order carp with prunes at any of the fine local restaurants.
Heaven for tourists
Skadar Lake is our pride and also a great opportunity for the development of tourism. It is the special kind of tourism, which is completely harmonized with nature, and does not harm its primary features.
That is a form tourism which is self-developing and self-advertising,
with the pre-existing values of untouched nature, offering each
guest plenty of ways to experience that nature directly, authenti-
The Beach
Many people consider Murićka Beach, situated on the
shore South of Virpazar, on the foothill of Ostros and surrounded by beautiful chestnut woods, as the most beautiful beach on Skadar Lake. Its restaurant and hard working
people, always striving to offer the warmest welcome for
their visitors, and the seclusion and distinctiveness of this
beautiful spot all make Murićka Beach one of the most popular locations on Skadar Lake. It can be reached by land,
but it is more beautiful to arrive by boat or dinghy, which
can be rented at several places on the shores of the lake.
Most organized tours start from the picturesque and miniature town on “three bridges” – Virpazar.
92
The Way of Flour
Porat, or the quay where all boats and dinghies, mostly
trading, used to land, carrying their loads to and from
Montenegro, is situated near the border that divides the
lake between our and the Albanian side, is near to the
border with Albania. Porat evokes the times when ships
landed here, transporting dried bleak from Crnojevića River, pearls, wine or the then widely famous flour made of
white corn, which grew abundantly in the green valleys.
The so-called “bagaš” was used as a measuring cup (similar to today’s wide, large measuring cup), after the flour
was milled in one of the numerous mills in Poseljani. Our
ancestors used to call that kind of flour “cikvantin”. It may
well be only a story, we cannot know for sure, but there was a firm belief that cikvantin was of incomparable
quality, to such an extent that people still call something
extraordinary a “real cikvantin” even today. Also, Porat was
the first port where boats on their way home to Montenegro could land. They brought from afar what was missing
here, and what a small country could afford. Today, Porat
is mostly just a memory of an active and attractive water
way, which connected a small principality with the world.
cally, just the way it is meant to be experienced. The basic task of
the employees of the National Park is to preserve the lake and its
environment in their natural state, preserve conditions necessary for
the plant and animal life, not let the waste of our industrial everyday
life to disfigure the clear face of the water, or to the break wings of
our birds and poison the fish. The sector engaged in the tourist development of Skadar Lake and other national parks, is headed by Mr.
Miloš Vojvodić, a man who has based his mission exactly on the above mentioned goals:
“Even before the foreigner steps on Montenegrin soil, when he casts
a look down from the plane, he will notice the blueness of the Skadar
Lake. That is the first image of us in the eyes of foreigners, and there is
no reason why it should not remain as beautiful as it was at first sight.
We cannot and should not offer anything to the dirty, industrialized,
paved and concrete world. All we have to do is harmonize the natural wealth and conditions, offered by the locals in their houses and
small private motels, as well as in the larger hotels, with the wishes
and demands of tourists. Tourists usually wants to feel the clear water
on their skin, to drink pure water, to taste fish freshly caught before
their own eyes... they want to take a ride in a dinghy from one small
island to another, and to listen and watch the birds before the sun
goes down. That is, the tourist wants exactly the opposite from what
can be found in our everyday lives; they want: complete peace, to
rest in every possible sense, to see and experience something new,
to experience and encounter history and culture and thus return to
our own humanity and nature. Actually, we have to provide a meeting with ourselves through a meeting with the lake. In truth if they
happen to experience some pleasant moments on the coast, or dining at the table of some of our housewives, people will come back.
We can only benefit from that, especially those who live for the lake
and from it.
To achieve all of that, we do not need concrete and glass hotels, or
gold-plated taps and porcelain soap boxes. We need care, neatness,
clear roads and paths, clean and safely stored food, organic fruit and
vegetables, local wines and local dishes, order, and above all, kind
hosts.
***
It is possible to organize tourist visits for nine months of the year. The
mild climate guarantees warm springs and undemanding autumns,
and in the summer the lake resembles the sea, which is a bonus, it
is free from crowds and all other exaggerations. Montenegro is not
a large country by its territory, and its national parks can easily be
inter-connected, therefore, this enhances our tourism. Only in Montenegro can you ski in the mountain in the morning, and lay on the
lake shore in the afternoon, enjoying a well prepared meal...fishing,
bird watching, cycling and walking, and excursions to monuments
of religious and historical value. Cultural events, legends, painters,
bird colonies, and traditional cuisine are all things that people can
give to others and keeping our traditions is the responsibility of our
modern generations. The previous generations left us all this beauty
and richness as our heritage. Mother Nature remembers everything:
good and bad, small and large activities, and is larger than all of us.
Just as the Skadar Lake is greater than all the other images and is
forever a tale of us.
“Boundless wreaths of the mountain tops
which, surmounting everything else, follow
each other to a distance, morning mist over
the water and its moody nature, nests in the
reeds and the smooth gliding of dinghies,
wide-winged pelicans and lonely churches on
scattered little islands, the smell of the fish and
songs of the birds...they are all, separately and
together, the faces of Skadar lake”, describes
the Director of the National Parks of Montenegro, Zoran Mrdak. “If you add cultural heritage preserved by the lake islands, treasures
that make up a large part of our spiritual and
historical wealth, curiosities, such as pearls
from the Crnojevića River or salted bleaks,
which used to be exported to the rich tables of
Venetian noblemen – your picture of the lake
will be fulfilled, you will able to understand its
significance, but you will never fully conceive
all its values. In other words: when you spend
only one day at the lake, you can experience a
lot, but even if you keep returning here for the
rest of your life, there will be an abundance of
things you never see and encounter...”
Below sea level
Besides Poseljani still known for its mills built in a row, and
the beautiful villages Godinje, Dodoši, Vranjina, is a special and unexpectedly beautiful little village called Raduš.
There are about ten houses in Raduš that still look exactly
like the houses that were built in this area 200 years ago,
with thick stone walls, narrow windows, and rough paved
paths between them. This authentic architecture of the
houses in Raduš is completed by a small village port quay
and a small harbor offering shelter both from good and
bad weather. The spirit of the past can be easily felt in Raduš, over the roofs of the houses and between the walls. It
is the kind of past that does not need mystification and to
which even a vivid imagination cannot add a thing. That is
the beautiful fishing settlement of Raduš.
And down, in the lake, not far away from the little quay in
Raduš, there is the so-called, fishing eye. It is a place with
abundant fishing. It is in fact where a crypto depression
is found on the lake floor. At this place the lake bottom is
below sea level.
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Luxury residences
Luxury residences
r e g e n t H ot e L o p e n i n g s u m m e r 2 0 1 4
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i n t e r n at i o n a L s H o p p i n g
Wat e r f r o n t d i n i n g
Wat e r f r o n t d i n i n g
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p u r o b e ac H p o o L & L o u n g e b a r
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Wat e r s p o r t s
Wat e r s p o r t s
+382 (0 )32 6 6 0 92 5
I [email protected] M
WWW.PORTOMONT ENEGRO.COM
+3 8 2 ( 0 ) 3 2 6 6 0 92 5
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Baldinini Crna Gora
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Naše najljepše ljubavne
priče: Đurađ i Lizabet
Prva štampana knjiga
Tako će
svijet
poznati
pravu
ljubav
kojom si
me ljubila N
Tekst: Nada Bukilić
Ilustracija: Gavrilo Mirotić
Iz dubina naše istorije, sjajem uzavrelog
rubina, blista testament Đurđa
Crnojevića – dokaz odane, iskrene
ljubavi. Svaka riječ upućena voljenoj
Lizabet, ima nadvremeno značenje i
zaslužuje, bez obzira na svoju primarnu,
testamentarnu svrhu, važno mjesto među
našim najljepšim ljubavnim zapisima
aslijedivši tron svog oca, velikog Ivana Crnojevića (XV stoljeće), Đurađ Crnojević je naslijedio i očeve državničke planove
i snove, ali i svjetonazor. Vladajući malenom državom, koja je
u ekspanziji osmanlijskih osvajanja ostala posljednja slobodna država na Balkanu, uzdigao je svoju državničku dužnost na nivo knjige i
kulture. Kao vladar, istovremeno je bio ugrožen malobrojnošću svog
naroda i teškim okolnostima u kojima je pokušavao sačuvati zemlju
i okupiti taj siromašni i neprosvijećeni narod. Sa druge strane, živio je
osebujnim, uzbuđujućim životom iskreno zaljubljenog čovjeka, koji
je jasno razumio jedinstvenost ljubavi i silovitu snagu sjedinjenog
muškog i ženskog bića.
Naša ga istorija pamti kao jednog od najznačajnijih vladara, ali ga
kultura slavi kao čovjeka koji je, u ovim našim skromnim i kamenom
okovanim obalama, koncem XV vijeka, osnovao prvu državnu
štampariju na svijetu, podarivši svom narodu jedinstvenu knjigu nad
knjigama. „Oktoih prvoglasnik” je artefakt neprocjenjive vrijednosti i
bez obzira na to što je bogoslužbena knjiga, bio je i ostao naše kulturno nadahnuće, ali i jedan od temelja nacionalnog ponosa.
Veoma obrazovan i upućen u evropska kulturna događanja, Đurađ
je bio mecena i inprimatur svih knjiga koje su štampane u obodskoj
štampariji. Visoko povjerenje u sopstvene snage i samopoštovanje,
koje je kod svog naroda razvijao još i njegov otac Ivan, kao i vjera u
znanje i umijeće štampara Makarija i njegovih učenika, odbranili su
mali Đurđev narod od kulturne inferiornosti. To je bilo doba kada su
se u Evropi rascvjetavali humanizam i renesansa i, s mirisom Mediterana, dospijevali u malu kneževinu Crnojevića. Prelijepo izvedena
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Đurađ Crnojević je bio obrazovan čovjek u dubokom saglasju
sa vremenom i svijetom u kojem je živio. Na Obod je donio
prvu štampariju i, prihvativši očevu mudrost da se jedinstvo
naroda može sačuvati a duh čovjekov uzdići najbolje i najjače
knjigom i jezikom, on naredi da se štampaju prve bogoslužbene knjige – na jeziku našem i ćiriličnim grafemama.
Štampanje inkunabula sa psalmima povjereno je jeromonahu
Makariju, koji je sa sedam svojih učenika štampao knjige ukrašene inicijalima neprolazne ljepote, u crvenoj i crnoj boji, sa stilizovanom zastavicom i grbom dinastije Crnojevića.
Jeromonah Makarije od Crne Gore štampao je knjige izuzetne
estetike i fine tehničke izrade, razvivši svoje umijeće do štamparskog savršenstva onog doba. Makarije i sedam monaha,
njegovih saradnika, štamparsko znanje su stekli u Mlecima,
gdje su, po volji Đurđevoj, kupljeni presa za štampanje, alat i
velike količine papira. Kuriozitet koji je doprinio razvoju kulta
„Oktoiha”, i knjige uopšte, predstavljaju olovna slova, pokretne
matrice za inicijale, grafičku ornamentiku i ilustracije, jer su u
potpunosti rađene u Crnoj Gori.
„Oktoih prvoglasnik” prva je štampana knjiga u Južnih Slovena,
završena 4. januara 1494. godine. Estetika i preciznost štampe,
osobita ljepota vinjeta i drugih detalja u knjizi, svjedoče o velikom majstorstvu naših prvih štampara, ali i o ambicijama vladara i vojskovođe Đurđa Crnojevića.
Prva južnoslovenska knjiga štampana u prvoj državnoj štampariji na svijetu duže od pet vjekova jedan je od duhovnih temelja crnogorske kulture, ali i materijalizovani eho onog vremena
kada su stasavale nacionalna osobenost i etika jednog malobrojnog naroda unutar evropske civilizacije.
slova, ukrasi i ornamenti na stranicama „Oktoiha”, elegantna štampa
i čistota svakog retka na njegovim stranicama, upravo to dokazuju.
U tome je veličina Ivana i njegovog sina Đurđa: ideja koja ih je vodila,
kao vladare i kao ljude, ovaploćena je na ovim predivnim stranicama,
a ne u osvajanju teritorija ili nagomilavanju beskorisnih materijalnih dobara. U onome što je inicirao veliki Ivan Crnojević, a ostvario
njegov sin Đurađ, zanjihale su se nacionalne osobenosti, estetske i
etičke vrijednosti naroda, koji će se, i nakon njih, razvijati upravo u
tom pravcu. Bez obzira na nepodnošljive, teške i surove okolnostima
kroz vjekove, ili baš uprkos njima. Otuda, ne čude preporuke koje je
Đurađ zapisao u svom testamentu. A toplina riječi kojima je izrazio
svoj odnos prema voljenoj ženi, neprikosnoveno svjedoče da mu je
upravo ta žena, odnosno ljubav, život učinila velikim i vrijednim.
Lizabet (Jelisaveta, kako joj izvjesni istoričari prevode ime) bila je
kćerka mletačkog plemića Encija i sudeći po testamentu njenog
muža, nimalo nalik ženi koju opisuje istorija. Naprotiv. No, istorija je,
upadljivo i veoma često, nesklona ženskim ličnostima i surova pri
ocjenjivanju njihovih uloga, bilo u odnosu na državu, bilo u odnosu
na njihov lični život, postupke i uticaje.
Iz testamenta se takođe vidi i posebno nježna ljubav prema djeci,
koju Đurađ uvijek naziva dječicom, ali se ni njegova očita očinska
privrženost ne da oteti onoj vezi koju je imao sa dragom Lizabet…
Kako god, Lizabet je voljela izuzetnog čovjeka i imala tu sreću da i
on voli nju, beskrajnom i odanom ljubavlju. I o drugim su ljubavima,
nesumnjivo, ostajali tragovi. No, malobrojna su svjedočanstva ljubavi
poput ovih Đurđevih zapisa: sa svakim novim retkom – uzevši u obzir
kad su pisana – ona bivaju sve poetičnija i – glede okolnosti koje su
ovo dvoje ljudi razdvajale – još potresnija…
Već početkom XVI stoljeća Đurađ je izgubio tron. Njegove planove
pretekli su vrijeme i nagomilane nevolje malobrojnog naroda. Vjeruje se da je od turskog sultana dobio imanje u Anadoliji i da je tamo
okončao svoj vijek, daleko i predaleko od svog naroda, Oboda i svoje
zemlje.
Lizabet je bila druga Đurđeva supruga (prva je, pretpostavlja se,
mlada umrla) i za nju su vezane neke kontroverze: prema skromnim
istorijskim svjedočanstvima, optuživana je za svađe unutar dinastije
Crnojevića, koje su uzbunjivale i talasale vlast ondašnje Zete, pa čak i
za gubljenje te iste vlasti i propast same države.
O Lizabet nema podrobnih podataka. Ali, ona živi u Đurđevim riječima:
„Tvoj Đurađ Crnojević, tebi draga ženo Lizabeta, evo pišem što ti oporučiti imam, ne bih li te razveselio… poznajući tvoju ljubav kojom si
me uvijek ljubila…”
Iz testamenta Đurđa Crnojevića:
„…Najprije znaj da sam u Milanu, sa
stricem Konstantinom. Do sada nijesam
hotio, podobra uzroka rado, ništa pisati
o mojijem stvarima, ali sada, kada sam
nakanio odovuda otići, odlučio sam napraviti svoju oporuku.
Poznajući tvoju ljubav, kojom si me uvijek ljubila, i znajući da s dobrote srca
udariš u plač, nijesam te hotio do sada
razžalostiti, ali sada, kada sam od tebe
daleko, a Bog sam zna, kada ćemo se, i
gdje opet sastati, spomenuvši se smrtnog časa, odlučio sam napisati vlastitom
svojom rukom ovu oporuku, za spas
duše tvoga Đurđa, i tvoje, sa onom nejake dječice naše.
Ako bi me snašla smrt, pošto nemam uza
se ni tebe, ni dječicu, želim da se vladate
po oporuci, koju evo pišem bistrijem razumom i zdravijem tijelom…
Sve stvari… bile od srebra, od zlata, od
mjeda, od kostreti ili svile, bile ikone ili
sveci, sa sudovima, bile čaše, žlice, i sve
fine stvari, imenovane i neimenovane sa
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pismima i pokućstvom, daj rekoh sve Crkvi sv. Marije na Cetinju; i tako će svijet
poznati pravu ljubav, kojom si me ljubila, kad vide da ljubiš i dušu moju poslije
smrti…
Nadalje da posjeduješ sve ono što je
gore napisano, udala se ili udovala, riječju: da budeš dok si živa gospodarica
od svega od čega bi bio gospodar ja, da
sam u životu…
Našeg sina Ludovika Konstantina odvedi
mom stricu Konstantinu – neka ga preda
kralju francuskome; a Salomona pošalji u
carski dvor njegovom stricu Skender-begu, i tako se uzdam u Boga da te ova dva
sinčića neće pustiti da umreš od glada,
jer će jedan biti uz cara, a drugi uz kralja…
…sve ostavljam i izručujem u ruke moje
žene Lizabete, kojoj osobito preporučujem poslije moje smrti, moje poštenje,
koje će ako bude hotjela moći uzdržati,
a na vlastito ako se spomene ljubavi, kojom me je ljubila, i svoga poštenja, koje
je uzdržala čisto i kad sam bio na putu i
kad sam bio uz nju.
Moja je tvrda volja da niko, bio on duhovni, bio svjetovni gospodin, bio brat,
bio stričević, ili kojeg drago umjeta čovjek, ne može zapovijedati ili te na što
silom primorati, nego naređujem da te
niko ne smije pitati za ono što si po mojoj zapovijedi učinila ili propustila, bilo
zlo ili dobro, nego što ti učiniš … za dušu
tvog Đurđa, koju preporučujem Bogu na
nebu, a tebi, vjerna moja ženo, na zemlji,
koja si me uvijek časnom ljubavlju ljubila,
da je dobro učinjeno.
Drugo ti draga ženo Lizabeto ne pišem
nego to da te Bog uzdrži sa dječicom,
kojoj, ponavljajući, ostavljam poslije svoje smrti potpuno cijeli svoj imetak, a ne
dopuštam nikome drugome da od tebe
pita razloga ili da ti što zapovijedi, izim
samog Boga, kome preporučujem dušu
tvoga Đurađa i tebe draga moja ženo sa
našom dječicom.”
Our most beautiful
love stories:
Đurađ and Lizabet
The first printed book
In such a
way, the
World
shall
recognize
the true
love you B
loved
me by
Đurađ was an educated man in deep harmony with the times
and the world in which he lived. He brought the first printing
press to Obod and by accepting his father’s wisdom that the
unity of the nation can be preserved and the human spirit elevated the best and most powerfully by books and language,
he ordered the first printed prayer books to be printed - in our
language and using Cyrillic characters.
The printing of the “incunabulas” with psalms was assigned to
the monk Makarije, who printed books together with seven of
his students, decorated with initials of timeless beauty in red
and black, with the stylized flag and emblem of the Crnojević
Dynasty.
The monk Makarije of Montenegro printed books with exceptional aesthetics and fine technical production by developing
his skills to the printing perfection of that time. Makarije and
seven monks, his associates, acquired their printing knowledge in Venice, where, according to the will of Đurađ, printing
press, tools, and large amounts of paper, were purchased. The
curiosity that contributed to the development of the cult of
this and books in general, are the lead letters, mobile matrix for
the initials, ornaments graphics and illustrations, as they were
created in Montenegro.
Oktoih Prvoglasnik, the first printed book of the Southern Slavs,
was finished on 4th January 1494. The aesthetics and precision
of printing, the distinctive beauty of the vignettes and other
details in the book, are evidence of the considerable mastery
of our first printers, and also the ambitions of the ruler and military leader, Đurađ Crnojević.
The first South Slavic book printed in the first state printing
shop in the world has been, for more than five centuries one
of the spiritual foundations of Montenegrin culture, as well as a
materialized echo of the times when they help develop the national particularities and ethics of this small nation within the
European civilization.
y Inheriting the throne of his father, the Great Ivan Crnojević
(XV century), Đjurađ also inherited his father’s plans, dreams
and worldview. Reigning in a small country, which remained
the last free Balkan country among the expanding Ottoman conquests, he raised his statesmanship to the level told of in books and culture. As a ruler, he was simultaneously threatened by the fewness of his
people and the difficult circumstances of trying to save the country
and bring together that poor and uncivilized nation. On the other
hand, he lived a distinctive, exciting life of a man honestly in love, who
clearly understood the uniqueness of love and the violent force of
united male and female beings.
Written by: Nada Bukilić
Illustrated by: Gavrilo Mirotić
The testament of Đurađ Crnojević
shines from the depths of our history,
by the glow of an exquisite ruby –
evidence of loyal, honest love. Every
word addressed to his beloved Lizabet,
surpasses time and deserves, regardless
of its primary, testamentary purpose,
an important place among our most
beautiful love stories.
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Our history remembers him as one of the most important rulers, but
culture celebrates him as the man who established the first state
printing press in the world, in this our humble, stone studded land, in
the late fifteenth century. He gave his people a unique book of books.
“Oktoih Prvoglasnik” which is a priceless artifact, and despite the fact
that it is a liturgical book, it was and is, our cultural inspiration, and
one of the foundations of our national pride.
Very well educated and knowledgeable about European cultural
events, Đurađ was the patron and creator of all the books printed
in the Obod printing press. His great self-confidence was developed
in him by his father John, and the knowledge and skills of his printer
Makarije, all combined to defend the small number of Đurađ’s people
from cultural inferiority. It was a time when Humanism and the Renaissance were flourishing in Europe, reaching the small Principality of
Crnojevići with the taste of the Mediterranean. The beautifully done
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letters, decorations and ornaments on the pages of “Oktoih”, the elegant printing and the purity of each line on its pages, testify to it.
That’s the greatness of Ivan and his son Đurađ: the idea that guided
them, as rulers and human beings, embodied in these beautiful pages, but not by the conquering of territory or the accumulation of
worthless material goods. In what was initiated by the great Ivan Crnojević, and accomplished by his son Đurađ, some national peculiarities, national aesthetics and ethical values ​developed further in the
same direction long after them. Regardless or just despite the unbearable, heavy and brutal conditions such trends continued through
the centuries.
Lizabet (Jelisaveta, as certain historians have translated her name)
was the daughter of a Venetian nobleman Enzio and according to
the testimony of her husband, not at all resembling the woman described by history, quite the contrary. But history is conspicuously and
very often unsympathetic towards female characters and brutal in
assessing their roles, either in relation to the state, their personal lives,
actions and influence.
We are also left with the personal testimony of Đurad about his
life and love. From the testimony is also visible an extra gentle love
towards children, whom Đurađ always called his little children, but his
apparent paternal affection can’t be separated from the relationship
he had with his beloved Lizabet...
Somehow, Lizabet loved an extraordinary man and was lucky enough that he also loved her, with an endless and loyal love. There are few
examples of love like in Đurađ’s essays: with each new line - taking
into account when they were written - they become more and more
poetic and - regarding the circumstances, even more moving...
Đurađ lost his throne at the beginning of the sixteenth century. His
plans were overtaken by time and the accumulated troubles of a
small nation. It is believed that the Ottoman sultan granted him lands
in Anatolia and that he ended his life there, far, far away from his people and his country.
Lizabet was Đurad’s second wife (the first, presumably, died young)
and linked to some controversies: according to the modest historical
records, she was accused of quarreling within the Crnojević dynasty,
which alarmed and rippled through the authority of the former Zeta,
and even for the loss of that power and the collapse of the State.
There is no detailed information about Lizabet. But she lives in Đurađ’s
words:
“Your Đurađ Crnojević, to you beloved wife Lizabet, here I’m writing
what I have to bequeath to you, wishing to, may be, cheer you up,
knowing your love... you always loved my by...”
From the Testament of Đurađ Crnojević:
“... First, let you know that I’m in Milan
with my uncle Constantine. So far I have
not wished due to good reason to write
about my affairs, but now that I have decided to go away from here, I decided to
make my will and testament.
all the fine things, named and unnamed
with letters and furniture, as I said, all
give to St. Mary Church in Cetinje, and so
the world will perceive the true love, that
you loved me with, when they see that
you love my soul even after death...
Knowing your love, which you have
always loved me by, and knowing that
because of goodness of the heart you
burst in tears, and I did not want to make
you sad, but now that I’m away from you,
and God knows when and where we will
meet again, mentioning the death hour,
I have decided to write this testament
by my own hand, for the salvation of the
soul of your Đurađ and yours, together
with those of our little children.
Take our son, Ludovic to my uncle Constantine - deliver him to the French king:
and send Solomon to the imperial court
to his uncle Skender Beg, and so I trust in
God these two little sons will not die of
hunger, because one will be next to the
Emperor and the other next to the king.
If a death comes upon me, I want you
govern according the testament, that
here I am writing with a clear intellect
and healthy body...
All the things... regardless of them being
silver, gold, brass, hair or silk, icons or saints, with dishes, were cups, spoons, and
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My hard desire is that no one, regardless
of whether he is a spiritual or a secular
gentleman, a brother, a cousin, or any
precious man of the arts, can command
or force you to do something, but I order that no one should ask what you
have done or omitted after my order
or, whether good or bad, but what you
do... for the soul of your Đurađ that I recommend to God in heaven, and to you
my loyal wife, make sure that it’s done
well.
Further that you possess all that is
written above, as married or widowed, in
a word: while you’re alive to be a mistress
of all of them I should be the master, as
if I were alive...
All I leave... and deliver into the hands of
my wife Lizabet, to whom I especially recommend, my honesty after my death,
if she will be able to restrain herself, and
on her own if she mentions love, she
loved Me by, and her honesty, she kept
pure when I was away and when I was
with her.
For any other reason I do not write to
you my dear wife Lizabet but that God
supports you with the little children,
to whom, I leave after my death all my
property, not allowing to anyone else to
ask a reason from you, or to command
you anything except the God himself
to whom I recommend the soul of your
Đurađ and you dear wife with our little
children.”
PJESNICI – Aleksandar Leso Ivanović
Ljudi sjenke
Nečujan, nalik cvijetu
Piše: Tatjana Popović
Fotografija: Goran Šaban
Aleksandar–Leso Ivanović svoj pjesnički svijet gradio je izjednačavajući čin stvaranja
sa činom življenja. Nedovoljno poznat u širim okvirima, kao ustalom svaki glas iz
malih sredina, on je, ipak, dao nešto što je crnogorskoj poeziji do tada nedostajalo:
istinsku proživljenost emocija, toplinu, nježnost i nenametljivu prisnost sa čovjekom
kroz detalje njegove svakodnevice
S
tihovi Lesa Ivanovića plijene svojom istinitošću, poetičnošću, melanholijom i čežnjom za čistotom ljudskih odnosa.
Plemenitost Lesovog izraza podiže njegovo djelo do vanrednog
poetskog značenja. Iako se u njegovim stihovima ne primjećuje trud oko tehnike, njegov iskaz je pravo savršenstvo – nema u
njemu ničeg suvišnog, a ipak je sve duboko i jasno, mudro i čisto,
fluidno i prirodno kao improvizacija. Jer svaka riječ kod Ivanovića
zadržava svoju zvučnost i boju. Svježina metafore, jednostavna
forma, sintaksa bez prenaglašenih tonova i skladnost jezičkih
oblika, osnovne su Ivanovićeve tehničko-estetske karakteristike.
Kako je (po Brodskom) poezija u suštini izražavanje zapažanja,
prevod tog zapažanja u jezičko nasljeđe, jezik je najbolje oružje i
oruđe. Ali, ono što čovjeka navodi da piše nije briga za sopstveno
trošno tijelo već žudnja da sačuva od propadanja bar nešto svog
svijeta, svoje lične civilizacije, svog nesemantičkog kontinuuma.
Umjetnost nije bolje već drugačije postojanje. Ona nije pokušaj
da se izbjegne realni svijet, već suprotno – pokušaj da mu se
udahne duša. A otvoreni prozori Ivanovićeve duše, katkad djetinjski puni povjerenja u ljude, puni su plemenitosti i humanosti. Od
malena noseći u sebi sjete i boli, ovaj pjesnik čovjeka – gledanog
plemenitim očima i sa plemenitim težnjama za dobrom – stvarao
je takvu poetiku pred kojom čitaocu ne mora zastati dah, ali koju
će duboko osjećati kao svoju, intimnu, ličnu…, kao da se ono što
osjeća autor drugačije i nije moglo doživjeti niti izraziti…, kao
poeziju koja ujedinjuje misao i osjećanje pjesnika sa osjećanjima
čitaoca. Bol koju nam neupitno pokazuje pjesništvo Aleksandra
Ivanovića, svi mi na neki način već nosimo u sebi.
Iako je za nekih četrdesetak stvaralačkih godina napisao i tek
toliko pjesama, Aleksandar Ivanović je pisao uvijek. Stalni gost
cetinjske kafane Lokanda, gdje je duge sate provodio uz šoljice
kafe, ostao je upamćen po zapisivanju stihova na svemu što bi
mu došlo pod ruku. Pjesnikov prijatelj Ratko Đurović bilježi: „S
vremena na vrijeme, izvukao bi svoje papiriće i jednu od malih,
oštro zašiljenih olovaka, nešto bi pribilježio, vratio sve to u džep,
pa ponovo to vadio, brisao… uvijek kritičan prema sebi i svojoj
riječi, stalno tražeći poetsku sintezu i destilaciju, ono bez čega
ne može. Toj svojoj ćutnji, ponekad bi glasno nešto ispričao, kao
da je s onim drugim sobom razgovarao, međusobnim strujanji-
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ma svijesti i prenošenjem misli.” Nevelik broj pjesama upravo je i
uslovljen strogim umjetničkim mjerilima i kriterijumima. O tome
je sam Ivanović govorio: „Taj kriterijum okarakterisao bih kao stalno prisutnu svijest da je čitaočeva emotivna potreba za dobrom
pjesmom i njegova sposobnost da je ocijeni uvijek veća od mojih
mogućnosti da mu je pružim. Prema tome, sva moja nastojanja
u tom pravcu samo su pokušaj da tu razliku što je moguće više
smanjim.”
Najbolje svjedočanstvo tome jeste rukopis zbirke Čapur u kršu,
koji je ostao u porodičnoj ostavštini, pun korekcija… ili činjenica da je pjesma U susret nebu od 1930. do 1960. pretrpljela tri
štampane redakcije autora! Ali, Aleksandar Ivanović je vjerovao
da pjesma mora imati čistotu forme da bi očuvala čistotu misli i
osjećanja koja kazuje.
Pjesme Aleksandra–Lesa Ivanovića kratke su po formi, često minijature, ali između sadržine i njihovog značenja postoji savršen
sklad. Čak i onda kada djeluju fragmentarno, lako je uočljiva cjelovitost umjetničke zamisli. Misaone poente njegovih minijatura
ostavljaju neočekivan utisak i izazivaju bogat, često uznemirujući doživljaj. Sve je to Ivanović: isitnjen, sav od komadića, odsjaja,
problijesaka…
Smisao sopstvene egzistencije pjesnik simbolično daje u (gotovo
epitafnoj) minijaturi
Čapur u kršu
Daljini svakoj dio sam srca dao,
na rodnom kršu ostao prepolovljen,
ko suhi čapur u kamen urastao,
koprivom ljutom i dračom zakorovljen.
Kod njega nema velikih riječi, prenaglašenih tonova, niti poruka
opšteg značenja, koje u sebi nose pretenziju da protumače stvarnost bez ostatka. Njegova polazna pozicija i preokupacija jeste
čovjek koji živi svoju bol, svoju tišinu, s kojom bez pobune, mirno
i sjetno, prolazi kroz život. Skučenost ljudske sudbine i egzistencijalna zebnja unutrašnje su biće Ivanovićeve poezije. Mozaik svog
pesimizma Ivanović daje u autobiografskoj ispovijesti, u pjesmi
Ima na svijetu mirnih, dobrih ljudi
što kroz život nečujno i tiho gaze
kao da nogom stupaju po pamuku,
a naše oči nikada ne opaze
ni njih ni njinu tihu radost ili muku.
Ima ćutljivih patnika na svijetu
što se samo umorno i gorko nasmiješe
na ljude kad se o njih teško ogriješe
i suminu ih nevini, nalik cvijetu.
I ima ljudi usamljenih i bonih,
sa obrazima upalim i žutim,
što ne čuje im se ni smijeha ni plača,
što žive kao samotna i divlja drača,
ali s bodljama unutra okrenutim,
da nijedna nikog ne ogrebe
i da nijednom nikoga ne ubodu
do samo svoje rođeno srce i sebe.
Njih ne vidi naše oko kad ih srijeta,
kad tiho prođu u mimogredu mirnu,
jer nikog oni ni laktom ne dodirnu
u vječnoj gužvi i vrevi
ovog svijeta.
I žive oni tako, nečujni i neveseli,
i mile kao sjenke, kao vrijeme i sati,
i tek kad umru, slomljeni i uveli,
objave crni posmrtni plakati
da su i oni sa nama živjeli.
Rođen 1911. godine na Cetinju, čijim
je bojama i mirisima kolorizovao
svoje stihove, Aleksandar–Leso
Ivanović je proživio svoj relativno kratak život (1965) nečujno
i smjerno, baš kao jedan od tih
njegovih odnosno naših ljudisjenki.
Čudni su razlozi zbog kojih se
riječi pjesnik i život doživljavaju gotovo kao sinonimi. A ako
je Dikens u pravu kada tvrdi da
je „genijalnost beskrajna sposobnost podnošenja muka”,
onda se zaključak o Lesu, nježnom pjesniku čovjekove sudbe, sa svakim pročitanim i
doživljenim stihom sam
nameće i potvrđuje…
T
he verses of Leso Ivanović win over people by their
truthfulness, poetics, melancholy and longing for the purity of human relationships.
POETS - Aleksandar
Leso Ivanović
Silent, like
a flower
Written by: Tatjana Popović
Photography: Goran Šaban
Aleksandar Leso Ivanović built his
poetic world by equating the act of
creating with the act of living. Not well
known in general, he was a voice from
a small milieu who gave something that
Montenegrin poetry had been lacking
until then: a genuine communicator
of emotions, warmth, tenderness and
unobtrusive intimacy with a human
being through the details of his daily life
The nobility of Leso’s expression raises his work to an extraordinary poetic meaning. Although in his verses no efforts at improving his technique, can not be noticed, his expression is real perfection – there is nothing superfluous in it, and yet it is profound
and clear, wise and pure, and as fluid and natural as pure improvisation. Every word retains its resonance and color. The freshness
of metaphor, simple form, syntax with no exaggerated tones and
a harmony of language forms are the basis of Ivanović’s technical
and aesthetic features. As (according to Brodsky) poetry essentially is the expression of observations, language is the best weapon and tool, for the translation of such observations into linguistic heritage. But what drives a person to write is not a concern for
his own fragile body, but is a longing to preserve from decay, at
least for some of this world, his own civilization. Art is not a better,
but a different state of existence. It is not an attempt to avoid the
real world, but on the contrary, an attempt to inhale it into the
soul. And it open windows into Ivanović’s soul, sometimes childishly full of confidence in people, who are full of kindness and
humanity. From an early age, bearing in himself melancholy and
pain, this poet of a man – observing with precious eyes and with
noble aspirations for good - was creating such poetry in front
of which the reader would deeply feel it as intimate, personal ...
something the author felt could not be experienced or expressed
differently... as poetry that unites the mind and feelings of the
poet with the feelings of the reader.
Although during some forty creative years he didn’t write too
many poems, Aleksandar Ivanović was constantly writing. As a
regular guest of the Cetinje pub “Lokanda” where spending the
long hours with a cup of coffee, he is remembered as writing
down verses on everything that would come to hand. The poet’s
friend, Ratko Djurovic, notes: “From time to time, he took out his
small collection of papers and one of the small, sharp sharpened
pencils, to annotate something and returned all it into pocket,
and then again took it out, and rubbed it out... always critical of
himself and his words, constantly seeking poetic synthesis and
distillation, as something irreplaceable. Sometimes he added something loudly to that silence as if he was talking with another,
by mutual streams of consciousness and transfer of thoughts.”
A small number of poems are determined by rigorous artistic
standards and criteria. That’s what Ivanović talked about: “I would characterize this criterion as an ever-present awareness of
the reader’s emotional need for a good poem, and his ability
to always rate it, higher than my ability to give it him. So, all my
efforts in this direction are just an attempt to reduce such differences as much as possible.”
The best testimony of that is the manuscript of the collection
called “Čapur in the Karts” that remained in the family legacy, full
of corrections... or the fact that the poem “Towards the sky” from
1930 to 1960s had three different printed author’s versions! But
Aleksandar Ivanović believed that the poem had to have a purity
of form in order to preserve the purity of thoughts and narrating
feelings.
108
The poems of Aleksandar – Leso Ivanović are short by form, often
miniature, but with perfect harmony between the content and
its meaning. Even when apparently fragmented, the fully intact
artistic ideas are easily visible in them. The meditative points of
his miniatures leave an unexpected impression and form a rich,
often unsettling experience. All this is Ivanović: chopped, all
made of pieces, glares, and sparks.
The poet symbolically gives meaning of his own existence in (an
almost epitaph) miniature
Čapur in karst
Piece of heart I gave to many far places,
some of it is still on birthstone
with nettles and weedy thistles
like potpourri in my own home
For him there are no big words, exaggerated tones or messages
of general meaning, only a pretending to interpret the reality entirely. His starting position and concern is that of a human being
living his grief in silence by which, with no rebellion, he quietly
and sadly, goes through the life. The narrowness of human destiny and existential anxiety are the internal essence of Ivanović’s
poetry. A mosaic of his pessimism is given by Ivanović in an autobiographical confession, a Poem:
People of Shadow
In the world there are peaceful, good people
who walk through life quiet and silent
like on balls of cotton,
and our eyes never see
them, their joy or anguish.
There are reticent in the world
who just give tired and bitter smile
to heavy offenders
and pass them innocently, like a flower.
And there are people lonely and sick,
with sunken and yellow cheeks.
I never hear them laughing or crying.
They live solitary as wild brambles,
but with spines facing inward,
with scratching nobody
apart from themselves and their own heart.
Passing quietly, with no elbow touching,
they are not seen, in this world of
eternal hustle and bustle.
And so they live, silent and moody,
walk as shadows, like time and hours
and only when they die, broken and dry,
obituaries show
that they have lived with us.
He was born in 1911, in Cetinje, whose colors and scents permeate his verses, Aleksandar Leso Ivanović lived out his relatively
short life (until 1965) silently and reverently, exactly like one of his
shadow-people.
It is strange are that the word “poet” and “life” are considered almost as synonyms. And if Dickens is right when he argues that
“ingenuity is the endless capacity of enduring torments”, then the
conclusion about Leso, the gentle poet of human destiny is imposed and affirmed, with each read and experience of his verse...
Poetry translation: T. Popovic
109
Poslušaj me – odigraću ti!
Njegoševim ulicama
Tekst: Nada Bukilić
Fotografije: Milena Kaluđerović-Tonić / Marko Gardašević
Na Cetinju i u Podgorici najljepše ulice nose Njegoševo ime. A najljepše ulice bile su
odgovarajuće pozornice za nesvakidašnji koreoperformans, koji su po ideji Sanje Garić
izveli mladi glumci i studenti Fakulteta dramskih umjetnosti. Koreopeformans Poslušaj
me – odigraću ti!, unio je svježinu – prisutni su zavedeni igrom i plesom umjetnika i sami
zaplesali… i plesali…
postulat je u pedagogiji i psihologiji i, prije
svega, u umjetnosti. Ako je igra rodila umjetnost, ples je otac životne radosti. Na toj osnovi je i zamišljen koreoperformans Poslušaj
me – odigraću ti Sanje Garić, docenta na cetinjskom Fakultetu dramskih umjetnosti, koji
je realizovala sa svojim bivšim i sadašnjim
stu
dentima glume.
„Zajedno smo identifikovali aktuelne probleme mladih ljudi – nedostatak kvalitetne
komunikacije i povjerenja, otuđenost i usamljenost… Zatim smo, opet zajedno, tragali
za odgovarajućim plesnim rješenjima, za
igrom koja može izraziti sva ta nakupljena
osjećanja tjeskobe i nesnalaženja, a onda i
odvesti ka oslobođenju, oljuđenosti, radosti…”
– Zašto Vas je privukla igra na otvorenom?
Sanja Garić, koreograf
K
ako ćeš mi reći da me voliš? Pokaži
mi zašto si ljut…, veseo…, srećan…
Jesi li usamljen? Čemu stremiš? O
čemu sanjaš? Gdje je tvoja snaga?
Sve neka važna i velika pitanja, zar ne? Zato
što je čovjek, shvaćen kao jedinka koja misli i
osjeća, srećan onoliko koliko te misli i osjećanja uspijeva razmijeniti sa drugima. Tanana
je ta jedinka, koja u mnoštvu drugih može
da osjeti usamljenost i sve daljine ovog svijeta; i svemoćna je, jer u istom tom mnoštvu
može da doživi vrtloge ličnog uspjeha i nadahnuće svake vrste!
„Samo čovjek koji (se) igra, jeste čovjek” –
114
GARIĆ: Zar se i Vama ne čini da je baš otvoreni prostor najadekvatniji za ovu vrstu
plesa? Lično, privlačilo me je da plesom, tj.
koreoperformansom objedinimo sve ono
što veže nas koji smo u ovome učestvovali, ali i sve druge ljude, i to tako očigledno,
otvoreno i neposredno. Ulica, odnosno ljudi
koje ćemo zateći na ulicama naših gradova
biće svjedoci naše igre, pa ćemo i njih, njihove pokrete, njihova osjećanja i mogućnosti,
objediniti, i postaće ne samo publika već i
direktni učesnici u našem performansu...
– A to treba da djeluje ljekovito ili…?
GARIĆ: Nadahnjujuće. Cilj je postignut ako
doprete do ljudi, ako i razumiju i osjete to
što igrate… jedino tada to nije tek mnoštvo
nekih pokreta - okreta, koraka, padova, skokova… već ples. Poseban jezik, koji se ne da
prevoditi riječima, a opet, svi ga razumiju.
Dragocjenost plesa i jeste u tome što njime,
u stvari, možete izraziti i ono što je, riječima,
ponekad, teško iskazati. Jer ples je, zaista,
objedinjavanje… Odnosno, ples je kao život
– neposredan i autentičan i samo takav ima
smisao.
- Kakva je bila saradnja sa glumcima i
studentima?
GARIĆ: Od početka smo sa mnogo volje i
svi zajedno radili na projektu, na svakom
njegovom segmentu. Ovakvu igru smo
jedino tako i mogli stvarati. Ne mogu ja da
dodjem u salu i izdiktiram gotovu kombinaciju plesnih pokreta, jer to nije moj, već naš
koreoperformans. Svi su kreirali koreografiju, tragali za vlastitim pokretima. Ja sam ih
vodila, usmjeravala, kako bi to traganje bilo
lakše i uspješnije, kako bi manje lutali, brže
stigli do cilja. Naša saradnja je, kao i uvijek,
bila i prijatna i uspješna, sa lakoćom smo
komunicirali i napredovali, jer se dobro i poznajemo i razumijemo.
- Šta je bio osnovni cilj rada na projektu?
GARIĆ: Istražiti mogućnosti objedinjavanja
glume i plesa u savremenom pozorišnom
izrazu, odnosno vlastite mogućnosti da
takvom igrom govorimo o nečemu što
nam je važno. Istovremeno, to je promocija
i same umjetničke igre i umjetničkih potencijala mladih glumaca, ali i Njegoševe ulice,
kao zivog scenskog prostora.
– A cilj samog performansa, komunikacije, interakcije sa publikom?
GARIĆ: Pa, prvo je bilo važno da sami glumci iskreno osjete sebe, svoje tijelo i njegove
mogućnosti, a onda se cilj, savladavanjem
glumačkih odnosno plesnih zadataka, uveličavao i narastao do naše želje da publici
ponudimo isto – da osjeti brižnost, nježnost,
povjerenje, bliskost…, i da i sama, plešući,
odagna neugodne misli, prevaziđe zazor od
bliskosti sa drugima…
– Laici obično ne znaju što sve znaju i umiju glumci. Ovim performansom ste pružili
priliku da ih vidimo i u jednom drugačijem svjetlu, pa i da ih, nadam se, više cijenimo. Ko se od njih Vama najviše dopao,
ko je ispunio sva očekivanja?
GARIĆ: Glumci mnogo toga znaju i umiju.
I njih i mene je radovalo što im je data mogućnost da pokažu još neka znanja i vještine,
jer im se takve prilike ne ukazuju baš često.
Kad je ples u pitanju, ja sam zaista zadovoljna i ponosna sam na naše studente, i bivše i
sadašnje… Karmen Bardak i Petar Novaković
su imali, da kažem, glavne uloge – na njima je
sva„priča” i samim tim imali su najteži zadatak,
i oboje su bili više nego odlični! Međutim, i
svi ostali su bili jako dobri u svojim ulogama.
Studentima druge godine takođe sam veoma zadovoljna – povjerene su im zahtjevne
uloge i – radili su kao zreli umjetnici, profesionalci. Zatim tu su Aleksandar Radulović, Slavko Kalezić, Manja Pavićević… A tek Bojana...,
zahvaljujući njoj sa nama je zaplesao i Aleksandar Bogdanović, i mogu reći da gradonačelnik Cetinja pleše odlično!
– Petar Novaković Vam je pomagao i u izboru muzike. Šta ste odabrali?
GARIĆ: Da, Petar je bio glavni, nepogrešivi
konsultant po tom pitanju i pomogao je da
pronađemo mnogo lijepih, različitih muzičkih numera. Koristili smo: Martha’a dream
(Nick Cave), Lascia ch’io pianga – iz opere
Rinaldo (Hendl), Esoteric surgery (Gojira), Burning Jacob’s ladder (Mark Lanegan)… Muzika
je, naravno, sa svim svojim značenjima i moćima od izuzetnog značaja u koreografiji.
– Imate li sličnih planova za ubuduće?
GARIĆ: Sad, kad znamo kako publika reaguje na ovakve koreografije i performanse,
možemo lakše odabrati i povode za igru, ali
i mjesta, učesnike, kao i teme koje interesuju
našu publiku. Želja nam je da ovaj i naredne
projekte igramo u što više gradova, sa što
brojnijim učesnicima i publikom. Da zaplešu
sve naše ulice…
– A gdje će se opet plesati?
GARIĆ: Već u julu na Kotor Artu! Poziv iz Kotora doživjeli smo kao potvrdu našeg umijeća i
kvaliteta projekta, ali i potvrdu da smo prepoznali šta nedostaje crnogorskoj publici…
– Akteri u Poslušaj me – odigraću ti, nakon svih peripetija, odlučuju se za ljubav i
ostaju zajedno i zagrljeni…
GARIĆ: Da. Tako se zatvara krug u ovoj igri –
zagrljajem!
115
Film
– Nakon ovog iskustva – ne čini li Vam
se da je, u stvari, kod nas najteže raditi
ovakve pionirske poslove?
Jedno je vodilo drugom – filmski materijal je
tu! Film o koreoperformansu Poslušaj me –
odigraću ti, režira Marija Perović.
GARIĆ: Vjerovatno jeste, ali je tada i izazov
najveći. Moja je i želja i obaveza da sa ljepotom i značajem igre upoznam što više
ljudi... Stvari se mijenjaju nabolje, mada
polako. To je proces, a on se ne može dogoditi preko noći. Uostalom, Poslušaj me –
odigraću ti pokazao je da su, i mimo mene,
stasali brojni mladi ljudi koji će sve to, sa
ljubavlju i znanjem, dalje iznijeti na svojim
plećima…
O iskustvu kroz koje je prolazila od početka stvaranja koreoperformansa pa do završnice u montaži filma, rediteljka Marija
Perović govori sa ushićenjem. Otkrivajući
mnoge dobre strane ovog projekta, koje
su je i navele da se prihvati rada na filmu o
koreoperformansu, rediteljka naglašava da
je veličina ovog projekta ne samo u zajedničkom radu i novini koju je darovao našoj
publici već i u izazovu koji su pred nju postavili autorka Garić i realizatori njene ideje
– mladi ljudi, željni igre.
Slavko Kalezić: Biti dio ovakve ideje i projekta za mene je suštinski važno. Međuljudski odnosi, usamljenost, otuđenost – sve u
tridesetak minuta sjajne koreografije i glumačkih zadataka. Sve postaje jedno i dišemo kao jedno. Nadam se da je ovo samo
početak jedne duge tradicije...
Aleksandar Radulović: Iskustvo je prelijepo zbog naše međusobne konekcije, ali
i zbog činjenice da smo uspjeli animirati
okupljenu publiku. Bilo je izazovno jer je
ipak drugačije od onoga što jeste gluma
uglavnom. Ovdje ne treba tražiti odgovor
na pitanje o glumačkoj koristi, već o dobrom stanju duha svih koji su učestvovali u
ovom projektu!
Bojana Knežević: Koreoperformans je
svojim konceptom izazvao da se suočimo sa gledaocima na drugačiji način. Da
svojim tijelima, koja cijepaju nesvakidašnji
scenski prostor, pošaljemo impuls u okolne ulice. Čini mi se da smo uspjeli da, bar
na kratko, zajedničkom igrom poremetimo
ravnotežu svakidašnjeg. Još nam je ovakvih
događaja potrebno. Da udružimo igračku
vještinu i glumačko iskustvo i progovorimo
o bitnim stvarima, koje nas se tiču i koje nas
dotiču.
Karmen Bardak: Za mene umjetnost znači život. Za mene život znači sloboda. Za
mene sloboda znači tijelo u skladu sa prirodom. Plesati znači radovati se svijetu oko
sebe na najprirodniji mogući način…, svojim tijelom i sobom… Grliti se, ljubiti, voljeti, radovati se, padati i ustajati… plesati...
to je mir, cilj nas plesača, nas glumaca, nas
ljudi… nas koji želimo i vjerujemo u bolji
svijet… I koji ga tražimo, tražimo, a on je
– u nama!
Petar Novaković: Moj generalni utisak o
svemu je izuzetan. Ples je bitan dio u školovanju glumca, ali je bitan i kao ljudska
potreba i u smislu ospoljavanja poezije
doživljenog. Voljeli bismo da često, često
igramo – jer nam se ne priča, ne govori baš
mnogo... Bilo bi lijepo komunicirati što češće u takvom kontekstu. Ne može prestati
potreba za igrom, dodirom, zagrljajem…,
posebno ne sada kada je čovjek tužno sam
i sav zatvoren, skučen, ophrvan brojkama… Ples je sam po sebi čin oslobađanja i
otuda je neophodan. Neophodan!
Manja Pavićević (balerina): Osjećam se veoma dobro! Glumci su me sjajno prihvatili i
pomogli mi da shvatim svoj zadatak. Drago
mi je što sam ja pomogla njima da tehnički bolje izvedu neke pokrete… To je bilo
uzbuđujuće lijepo... Izuzetna atmosfera i ti
dragi, zanimljivi i talentovani ljudi koje sam
upoznala – za mene značajno iskustvo!
„Veoma me je obradovala ideja o plesnom
teatru i street performansu. Obradovala me
je njena namjera, ali i poziv da se priključim
i bavim nečim modernim, drugačijim…,
bez dijaloga. Zapisi, vizuelni kadrovi, nacrti
scenarija, scene, uzori „plesnih” filmova u
video zabilješkama..., polako su prerasli u
materijal u kojem se nazirao izazovan uslov
za dokumentarni film. Film bilježi napor,
radost, kreaciju, odnos…, mlade talentovane ljude, koji o svemu bolje od mene
govore svojim pokretom, gestom, izrazom,
radom… Igrom! Karmen Bardak i Petar Novaković, koji su glavni akteri, glavni plesači,
zatim Bojana Knežević, i svi, svi drugi… A
onda – kadrovi koje je snimao meni najbliži
saradnik, Željko Bracanović… Kroz montažu je taj utisak postajao još jači i potvrdio
je kao vrlo vrijednu ideju o animacionom
događaju po ulicama. Sjajna forma, za nas
potpuno nova. Sjećam se koliko sam bila
zagledana, zatečena, obradovana na prvoj
plesnoj probi koju sam odgledala u cjelosti. Pratila sam rasplet i bilo mi je potresno!
Nakon toliko odgledanih stvari u profesionalnim, predavačkim angažmanima, iskustvo ovog rada mi je – novo! To je jedna od
najljepših stvari u ovim našim poslovima…”
U koreoperformansu, pa tako i u filmu,
učestvuju i: Anđelija Rondović, Maja Stojanović, Filip Đuretić, Sanja Vujisić, Jelica Bulatović, Jovan Dabović… Ali, i svi oni građani
koji su se tih lijepih dana zatekli u gradu i
zaplesali sa glumcima…
Listen to me – I will dance it for you!
Walking down the
Njegoš's Streets
Text: Nada Bukilić
Photography: Milena Kaluđerović Tonić / Marko Gardašević
The most beautiful streets in Cetinje and Podgorica are named after Njegoš. And the
most beautiful streets were suitable scenes for an unusual choreo-performance, which
was presented by young actors and students of the Faculty of Dramatic Arts, based on
an idea by Sanja Garić. The choreo-performance “Listen to me – I will dance it for you”
brought freshness – those present were seduced by the dancing of the artists and started
to dance as well... and danced... and danced
the vortices of personal success and inspiration of all kinds!
“Only a man that can play is a man” is a
postulate in psychology and pedagogy,
and above all, in art. If the game has born
art, dance is the father of joy. The choreoperformance “Listen to me – I will dance it
for you” was based on this, created by Sanja Garić, professor assistant at the Faculty
of Dramatic Arts in Cetinje, in cooperation
with some of her former and current drama students:
We identified the current problems of young people; the lack of quality communication and trust, alienation and loneliness... Then we, together, searched for
appropriate dance solutions, for a form
of dance that can express all those gathered feelings of anxiety and confusion, and
then lead towards liberation, humanization, and joy...”
- Why were you attracted to dance in
the open air?
GARIĆ: Don’t you think that the open air is
exactly right for this kind of dance? Personally, I wanted to unite all that connects us
who participated in this, and all the other
people, obviously, openly and directly,
through dance, that is, a choreo-performance. The street, or the people that we
find in the streets of our towns, will witness our dance, thus, we will include them,
their movements, their feelings and possibilities, and they will become not only
the audience, but also direct participants
in our performance.
- It should be healing or...?
Sanja Garić, choreographer
H
ow will you tell me that you love
me? Show me why you are angry...cheerful...happy... Are you lonely? What are your aspirations? What are
your dreams? Where is your strength?
All big and important questions, aren’t
they? Because a man, as an individual
that thinks and feels, is as happy as he
succeeds in exchanging those thoughts
and feelings with others. That individual
is delicate, able to feel loneliness and the
distances of this world; and almighty, because in that multitude he can experience
GARIĆ: Inspiring. The goal is achieved if
you reach the people, if they understand
and feel what you are dancing... A light
touch, fingers on the shoulder, twist, step,
fall, jump...it is a special language which
cannot be translated, but then again,
everyone understands it. The value of
dance lies in the fact that you can express
by it all that is sometimes impossible to
express in words. In other words, dance is
like life – direct and authentic, and only as
such, meaningful.
- What was your cooperation with the
actors and students like?
GARIĆ: We have all been working on the
project, on each segment, with a lot of
enthusiasm from the very beginning. I am
not one of those who “knows best”, so I do
not come to the hall and dictate the finished combination of dance movements.
Quite the contrary – the very nature of the
course I am teaching forbids narrow-mindedness and only one way or manner of
work. We cooperate with each other in our
wishes and possibilities, and thus create
our dance. And all of them are completely
involved in each segment of the work on
the project, right till the end. In the choice of music, costumes... For example, the
dramatist Balša Poček, who wrote our text
as the dialogue that the performance begins with, could have left after the task
was done, but he stayed, helped me during development of the choreography (a
couple begins fighting, they separate, and
then, through meetings and contact with
other people, feel their loneliness and pay
its price, just to return to each other again);
or Bojana Knežević, who has helped me a
lot in work with the youngest participants,
drama students, to find the best body movements. They were all great.
- What was the basic goal of the work
on the project?
GARIĆ: It is about the presentation of our
art in a public space, through communication with the audience, together with
the promotion of artistic dance, and the
artistic possibilities of the young actorsdancers, and Njegoš’s Street, as a live
scene, with the concept of the town as a
stage.
- And what was the goal of the performance, communication, and interaction with the audience?
GARIĆ: Well, first of all, it was important
for the actors to sincerely feel themselves, their bodies and their possibilities,
and then the goal evolved by the mastering of acting and dancing routines and
grew into our wish to offer our audience
the same, to feel: carefulness, tenderness,
trust, intimacy...and to chase away unpleasant thoughts, and overcome fear from
being close to others through dance... I
believe that we succeeded in that.
119
- Laymen are usually unfamiliar with all
possibilities of actors. This performance gave us the chance to see them in
a different light, and hopefully, respect
them more. Who did you like the best?
Who fulfilled all your expectations?
this, and future projects, in as many towns
as possible, with more numerous participants and public. To make all our streets
dance.
GARIĆ: Actors know and can do a lot of
things. We were all happy because of
the opportunity to show some additional knowledge and skills, because such
opportunities do not show up that often.
When it comes to dance, I am truly satisfied and proud of our students, both former and current. They all did great in the
choreo-performance, honestly. Karmen
Bardak and Petar Novaković had, let me
say, the leading roles – they were carrying
the entire “story”, and therefore, their task
was the hardest, but both were more than
excellent! However, all the others were
very good in their roles. I am also very
pleased with the students of the second
year – they were entrusted with demanding roles and they performed like mature artists, professionals. There are also
Aleksandar Radulović, Slavko Kalezić, Manja Pavićević... And Bojana...thanks to her,
even Aleksandar Bogdanović danced with
us, and I can tell you that the Mayor of Cetinje is an excellent dancer!
GARIĆ: In July, at Kotor Art! We accepted
the invitation from Kotor as confirmation
of our capabilities and the quality of the
project and as confirmation that we recognized what the Montenegrin audience
was missing. I believe that we will make
the audience in Kotor dance, just as we
succeeded with the audiences in Cetinje
and Podgorica. After all, when you make
people sense and feel, there follows the
first dance move...
- Petar Novaković helped you with the
choice of music. What did you choose?
GARIĆ: Yes, Petar was the main, infallible
consultant on that matter, and helped me
to find a lot of beautiful, different music
numbers. We used: Martha’s Dream (Nick
Cave), Lascia ch’io pianga – from the Opera
Rinaldo (Hendl), Esoteric Surgery (Gojira),
Burning Jacob’s Ladder (Mark Lanegan)...
Music is a serious and difficult part of the
job, and that part significantly affects the
further course of work, because the music, with all its meanings and power, is of
extreme importance in choreography, of
course.
- Do you have any similar plans for the
future?
GARIĆ: Now that we know that the public
reacts positively to such choreographies
and performances, we can more easily
choose motives for dance and places, participants, as well as topics that would interest our audience. It is our wish to present
120
- Where will you dance again?
- The protagonists of “Listen to me – I
will dance it for you” opt for love after
various ups and downs, and remain together and hug.
GARIĆ: Yes. That is how the circle closes
in this dance...with a hug! That is the way
many situations in life should be solved.
- After this experience: don’t you think
that working on such pioneering projects in our country is the hardest
thing?
GARIĆ: It is probably true, but that is when
the challenge is greatest. My wish and
obligation is to meet as many people as
possible with the beauty and significance of dance. Things are changing for the
better, though slowly. It is a process, and
it cannot happen overnight. Anyway, “Listen to me – I will dance it for you” showed
that apaert from me, there are numerous
young people who grew up and will bear
all this on their shoulders, with love and
knowldge.
Slavko Kalezić: To be a part of such an
idea and project is of crucial importance
for me. Interpersonal relationships, loneliness, alienation are all explored in about
thirty minutes of great choreography and
acting. We, the performers, and audience,
all become one, and we breathe as one. I
hope that this is just the beginning of a
long tradition.
Aleksandar Radulović: Well, I joined the
project a bit later... if only we had more
time – I would have been better... But, we
know our professor Garić and know what
she wants from us, so we communicated
easily and “hit the target”. This experience
is beautiful because of our inter-connection. We included people who were
passing by. It is not about searching to
answer the question of acting benefit, but
about good state of mind of all those who
participated in the project!
Bojana Knežević: The choreo-performance with its concept has challenged
us to face the audience in a different way.
To use our bodies, which in the unusual
space send impules to the surrounding
streets. It seems to me that we succeeded, for a short period of time, at least,
to alter everyday life with our dance. We
need more of these events. To connect
dancing skills and acting experience, and
talk about important things that concern
and touch us all.
Karmen Bardak: For me, art means life.
It means freedom. For me, freedom is the
body harmonized with nature. To dance
means to rejoice in the world around you
in the most natural way... with your body
and yourself... To hug, kiss, love, be happy,
fall and rise... dance... that is peace, and
the goal of us dancers, us actors,.us people, who wish for and believe in a better
world... And who are searching, and searching for what is inside of us!
Petar Novaković: My general impression
about everything is extraordinary. Dance
is an important part of the education of
an actor, but it is also important as a human need, and in the sense of expressing
the poetry of experience. We would like to
dance more often – because we do not
feel like talking too much. Dance is a form
of expression that has a future. The need
for dancing, for touching, for hugging can
never disappear. Especially not now when
man is sadly alone and closed in, constricted, and overpowered by numbers. Dance
in itself is an act of liberation and thus, necessary. Very necessary!
Manja Pavićević (ballerina): I feel very
good! The actors looked after me and helped me understand my task. I am glad I
could help them perform certain moves
better in a technical way. It was exciting
and nice. An extraordinary atmosphere...
and all those dear, interesting and talented people I met. It was a great and significantexperience for me!
The film
One thing led to another - so the film material is here!
The film about the choreo-performance, “Listen to me – I will dance it for you”,
which is just nearing completion, is being
directed by Marija Perović.
The director, Marija Perović, speaks with
excitement about the experience she has
been going through, since the beginning
of the creation of the choreo-performance to the editing of the film. Perović
emphasizes that greatness of this project
lies not only in the joint work and novelty
presented to our audience, but also in the
challenge author Garić and the young people performing the dance, set before her.
She reveals the many good sides of this
project, which induced her in the first place to begin working on the film.
The “Listen to me – I will dance it for you”,
film about the choreo-performance,
includes several, unfortunately, “unknown”
words for us... The first is: Listen to me...???
Yes, really: how do we listen to each other,
in everyday life, on a public scene, in life...
what about communication? The second:
Dance...??? Who is still dances today, moving, getting around? And then: choreoperformance! What kind of word is that?
What does it really mean? Through all those unknown words, we came to just one,
familiar to everyone. To the word: film,
which makes me extremely happy.
I was very happy with the idea of dance
theatre and street performance. I was delighted by her intention, but also by the
invitation to join and work on something
modern, different... without dialogue. Recordings, visual shots, scenario drafts, scenes, role-models of “dance” movies in the
video notes... slowly grew into material
from which a challenging documentary
emerged. This film marks: effort, joy, creation...relations...young, talented people
who speak about this much better than
me, through their movement, gesture,
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expressions, and work. Dance! Karmen
Bardak and Petar Novaković, the main protagonists, the leading dancers, then Bojana Knežević... and all the others, perform
flawlessly. And then, the shots filmed by
my closest collaborator, Željko Bracanović... This impression became even stronger through editing, and he confirmed
the idea about an event in the streets, as
very valuable. It is a great, new form and
completely new to us. I remember how
fascinated, surprised and happy I was at
the dance rehearsal, the first I watched till
the end. I was following the denouement
and it was shocking for me! After all the
things I have seen in my professional and
teaching, the experience of such work
was totally new to me! Well, that is...one
of the most beautiful things in our work...”
Other participants in the choreo-performance, and thus in the film are: Anđelija
Rondović, Maja Stojanović, Filip Đuretić,
Sanja Vujisić, Jelica Bulatović, and Jovan
Dabović. And also, all those citizens, who
were in the streets during those beautiful
days and who danced with the actors...
Moda – crnogorska ženska košulja
Pet vjekova stila
Tekst: Jasna Cvetković
Foto: Miodrag Marković
Crnogorske ženske košulje, čiju eleganciju i ženstvenost nijesu pregazili ni vjekovi,
ni stilovi, ni svemoćna moda i pomodnost
D
o skoro je bilo nezamislivo da postoji crnogorska kuća
u kojoj sva ženska čeljad nemaju bar po jednu košulju s ošvicama, bez obzira na godine, porodični status
ili ekonomsku moć same porodice. Košulja nije bila mjerilo za
imam ili nemam, bogat sam ili nijesam bogat, već potvrda da je
žena od ukusa, tj. identifikaciona karta otmenosti i ženstvenosti. Vremena se jesu promijenila, ali je crnogorska ženska košulja ostala iste ljepote – savršena!
A cetinjska Revija ženske crnogorske košulje pokazala je da je
savršeno lijepo samo ono čemu ni vrijeme ni modni trendovi ne oduzimaju čar... Iako je osmišljena unutar našeg folklora, i
to veoma davno, crnogorska ženska košulja može i treba da se
nađe u ormaru savremene žene. Crnogorska košulja se nosi i
ležerno i svečano – podjednako u najvažnijim događajima, u
najekscentričnijim prilikama, ali i u najintimnijim, romantičnim
trenucima… Ona daje ekskluzivnost svakoj od tih situacija, jer
ženu čini posebnom i otmenom, važnom i sebi i drugima.
Vjeruje se da je osobeni šarm crnogorske ženske košulje nastao
još na dvoru dinasta Balšića i Crnojevića, jer je kraljevski elegantna
i jednostavna, a finu liniju ženstvenosti daju joj srmom i zlatom
izvezene ošvice (opšivi oko izreza za vrat i dekolte), koje se dopunjuju raznobojnim svilenim koncem. „Sem njegovanja petovjekovne tradicije, cilj ove revije, tj. kolekcije crnogorskih košulja, jeste da i modernim ženama pokloni osjećaj posebnosti”, rekla je
Sanja Pejović, autorka kolekcije. Prikazane košulje izrađene su od
pamučnih i svilenih materijala, sa geometriziranim floralnim motivima, prijatne su za nošenje, estetski vrlo lijepe i izuzetno moderne. Ukombinovane sa trendovskom odjećom daju ličnu notu,
a istovremeno – pokazuju da gajite poštovanje prema onome
kod koga dolazite u ovakvoj košulji. Zato su i veoma prikladne
kao dar ženi koju cijenite i/ili volite…
Ipak, da bi pristajala kako treba, najvažnije za crnogorsku košulju
jeste da žena koja je nosi bude svjesna da sa njenim ošvicama
nosi i jednu veoma dugu, neprekinutu nit dostojanstvenosti i prirodne, autentične erotičnosti crnogorskih žena. Onih žena čija je
suptilnost odnjegovana uprkos kršu i čija nježnost nije izgorjela ni
pod suncem ni pod vjetrovima sa planina…
Po mišljenju etnologa Zorice Mrvaljević,
crnogorska ženska košulja datira iz doba
Balšića i Crnojevića
124
Fashion – Montenegrin
women’s blouses
Five
centuries
of style
A
The elegance of montenegrin
women’s blouse was not
clouded by the centuries,
styles, high fashion and
trendiness
ny
Montenegrin home was
unthinkable without at least one
blouse with trimming, owned by female members, regardless
of their age, or marital status or the economic power
of the family. The blouse was
not a measure of I have or I
have not, I am rich or I am not
rich. It was confirmation that the
woman had taste, a kind of identification card of grace and femininity. Times have changed, but a Montenegrin
women’s blouse retains the same beauty
– simply perfect!
The Fashion show of women’s blouses in
Cetinje showed that only that, which has remained unchanged through time and fashion
trends, could be considered perfectly beautiful. Although it was created a very long time
ago, as part of our folklore, the Montenegrin
women’s blouse can and should be in every
woman’s closet even today. The Montenegrin
blouse can be worn either casually or formally,
during the most important events, in the most
eccentric occasions, and, of course, during
the most intimate, romantic moments... The
blouse adds exclusiveness to each of these
situations, because it makes a woman feel special and graceful, important to herself and to
others.
It is believed that the unique charm of Montenegrin women’s blouses was created back in
the courts of the Balšić and Crnojević dynasties,
Offering you formulas for success:
Let's make it simple
Text:
Jasna Cvetković
Photography:
Miodrag Marković
since it is regal elegant
and simple, and the
nice line of femininity
is given by the gold embroidered trimming (bordering around neckline for
the neck and décolletage),
which is supplemented with
multicolored, silk thread. “Besides cherishing a five-century
long tradition, the goal of this
fashion show, or collection of
Montenegrin blouses, is to give a
feeling of uniqueness to modern
women”, stated Sanja Pejović, designer of the collection. The blouses
presented were all made of cotton
and silk, with geometric floral motives,
they are very pleasant to wear, aesthetically very beautiful, and now, as they
have always been – extremely modern.
Combined with trendy clothes, they give
a personal touch, and at the same time –
demonstrate that you respect the person
you are meeting by wearing this kind of
blouse. That is why the blouses are a very
appropriate gift for the woman you respect and/or love...
However, in order for a shirt to fit right, it
is most important that the woman wearing it is well aware of the very long,
unbroken thread of dignity, and natural, authentic eroticism of Montenegrin
women that are woven into the trimming of the blouse. The same women,
whose subtlety exists despite the rocky
ground, and whose tenderness could
not be burned by the sun and the mountain winds.
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member firms affiliated with KPMG International Cooperative ("KPMG International"), a Swiss entity All rights reserved. The KPMG
name, logo and “ cutting through complexity” are registered trademarks or trademarks of KPMG International.
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SPORT – Danijel Furtula, bacač diska i kugle
Medalje za lavlje srce
Razgovarala: Nada Bukilić
Fotografije: privatna arhiva
Svi smo ludi za fudbalom, rukometom, košarkom…, ali sem tih sportova volimo
i – medalje! One zlatne posebno, koje sijaju na grudima naših vrhunskih, mladih
sportista! Uvijek nam se učini dok gledamo kako se naš sportski idol penje na
pobjednički pijedestal, da to korača i cijela naša zemlja i da se sa dobrim glasom o
sportisti svijetom širi i dobar glas o nama! Najbolje i najljepše glase o nama pronio je
Evropom i svijetom i mladi Mojkovčanin Danijel Furtula, osvajač zlatne medalje na
posljednjem Evropskom prvenstvu malih zemalja
N
aša ljubav prema uspješnim
sportistima jeste sebična, ali je i
puna ponosa i divljenja. Sa tim
osjećanjima strepimo za naše sportiste,
podržavamo ih i dočekujemo! Osvajanje
medalje, himna u čast pobjednika, čestitke, povratak sportiste... – to su trenuci
kad i sportista i svi mi znamo da imamo
svoju zajedničku i lijepu kuću! U kojoj je
moguće izgraditi izuzetnog sportistu i
kada uslovi za to nijesu idealni… Individualni sportovi, poput disiplina kojima
se bavi Furtula – bacanje diska i kugle – i
sami po sebi su izolovana, izdvojena pregnuća i napori; posebni sportovi kojima
se i mogu baviti samo izuzetne, snažene
ličnosti – bez svjetala reflektora i bez velike publike, često usamljenički, jakom
voljom i čeličnom voljom koncentrišući
se na veliki rad. Kod nas je ta usamljenička
borba još očitija i teža, jer se tek na osnovu
Furtulinih iskustava i rezultata možemo
nadati da će i bacanje kugle i diska dobiti
dimenziju popularnijeg sporta... Na muci
se poznaju junaci, rekli bi naši stari – i baš
u svjetlu te istine Furtulin uspjeh jače sija i
znači mnogo više od medalje. Danijel Furtula je postao uzor i podsticajni autoritet
među mladima, jer im je dokazao kako se
upornošću, radom i snagom volje stiže do
visokih zvijezda...
– Rođen si u živopisnom, ali malom
gradu. Crna Gora, uz to, nema tradiciju
sporta kojim se baviš. Kako to da nijesi
učinio ono što rade sva đeca: u trk za
loptom?
FURTULA: Moram priznati, i sâm sam prve
sportske korake napravio kao – potencijalno – fudbaler! Počeo sam trenirati sa nekih
šest-sedam godina, jer je to činila većina
mojih vršnjaka. To su godine kada postanete svjesni sopstvenog bića i kad prepoznate one rane potrebe za potvrđivanjem
i dokazivanjem. Bio sam željan dokazivanja, pa nijesam mogao odoljeti tom izazovu... Inače, u pravu ste, Crna Gora nema
tradiciju u disciplinama koje sam kasnije
odabrao, ali ta je priča o bacanju kugle i
diska počela kasnije, dosta spontano i nekako slučajno…
130
Danka i otac Mileta moji su najveći oslonci, moja snaga. Ali, tu je i moj trener Danilo Krtinić – on je moj pokretač i vizionar,
moja podrška i moja „druga polovina” na
svakom takmičenju, postolju…
– Veoma si mlad, horoskopski lav, pa
opiši sebe lavovski u nekih pet-šest riječi?
FURTULA: Hahaha… Jesam, lav sam u horoskopu i vidim da je to mnogima bitno,
iako ja nijesam baš siguran koliko to ima
veze sa uspjehom ili snagom. Ali, kao svaki
lav, ovako bih sebe opisao: tvrdoglav, uporan, iskren, pažljiv, pozitivan…
– Šta smatraš svojim najvećim sportskim uspjehom, a šta onim ličnim, intimno važnim uspjehom?
FURTULA: Najvećim sportskim uspjehom
smatram ovo: uspio sam sebe uzdignuti
i afirmisati kroz sport, uspio sam postati
nezavisan i svjestan sam da je moj život, a
na određen način i život moje porodice, u
mojim rukama. A intimno, za mene je najveći uspjeh kad usrećim ljude koje volim i
koji mi najviše znače u životu, poput moje
porodice…
– Kako si se osjećao kad si osvojio zlatnu medalju na Evropskom prvenstvu –
šta za tako mladog čovjeka znači predstavljati svoju domovinu, malu, ma
kako lijepa bila, pored velikih sportskih
sila i pred velikim sportskim silama?
– Ko ti je pružio najjaču podršku?
FURTULA: Osvojiti medalju na tako velikom takmičenju jeste nešto zaista veličanstveno! To je nešto što se rijetko doživi,
do čega rijetko dođu i najbolji među
sportistima. Ali oni koji su imali čast stajati pod zastavom svoje zemlje, zastavom
koja se zavijorila zbog njih i u njihovo ime,
znaju da je to nešto vrlo, vrlo posebno.
Slušati himnu, a imati medalju na grudima! Veličanstveno! Kao sportista ću reći
da je to i posebna vrsta odgovornosti, ali
za mene, prije svega – čast. Ja to doživljavam na takav način: imam osjećaj da je to
uspjeh izvojevan u jednom sportskom,
odnosno „modernom ratu” za čast i svoj
narod…
FURTULA: Najveću podršku od početka, i
očekivano, a na veliku moju sreću, imam
u svojoj porodici: majka Nataša, sestra
– Kako se osjećaš onih nekoliko minuta pred bacanje diska? O čemu se tada
misli?
FURTULA: Huuuu…, iskreno, veoma je teško dok ne počne samo takmičenje. Uznemireni ste, tijelo je napeto, uzbuđenje
raste sa svakom sekundom…, navru i svakakva osjećanja, naraste želja… Nemam
neku posebnu mantru pred takmičenje pokušavam da se koncentrišem i ostanem
miran, bez obzira na sve to što osjećam…
I da, ostavši smiren, sve to pretvorim u rezultat…
– Najbolji rezultat i rezultat koji sanjaš?
FURTULA: Moj najbolji rezultat je trenutno
64,60 metara, koji je trenutno najdalji hitac
diska u svijetu (mislim na mlađe seniore), a
ja očekujem da ove godine bacim i dalje.
E sad, želje - želim da osvojim olimpijsku
medalju. To bi bilo nešto posebno, a osjećam da to i mogu…
– Šta voliš sem sporta?
FURTULA: Volim druženja, jer volim ljude.
Međutim, drago mi je i kad neko ili nešto
postavi pred mene izazov. Zato što se kroz
odolijevanje ili pobjeđivanje tih izazova, u
stvari, upoznaju i život, i sopstveno biće, i
ljudi oko nas… Učim, takođe, jer i to volim,
bitno mi je da se usavršavam. Ona strana
moje ličnosti i mog bavljenja drugima, što
me takođe interesuje, jeste želja i potreba
da pomognem… Volim da pomognem
dobrim, časnim ljudima, onim neiskvarenim i skromnim i, kad mogu, onima koji
su siromašni. To mi je važno i uspijevam
pomoći jer su me osnažile ljubav i nježnost koje dobijam iz toplog doma, iz porodice…
– Rukometni trener Dragan Adžić insistira da sportisti čitaju i vjeruje kako
knjige „otvaraju nove svjetove” mladim ljudima, kako utiču na samoupoznavanje i razumijevanje ljudi…
FURTULA: Naravno, pa rekoh maloprije –
treba učiti, čitati, saznavati što više. Slažem
se sa Adžićem potpuno. Ja sam, mislim,
upravo vjerujući u tu moć koju daruje knjiga i izgradio svoj pobjednički duh, proširio
svoje znanje, razvio strpljenje i, možda,
najvažniju stvar u sportu – samopouzdanje…
– Da li si upoznao neke od zanimljivijih,
šire poznatih sportista?
131
Lična karta
Danijel Furtula, atletičar košarkaške
visine (195 cm) rođen je 31. 7. 1992.
godine, u Mojkovcu, Crna Gora. Član
je Atletskog kluba Tara, a njegova
disciplina, u kojoj je postigao najviše
uspjeha, jeste bacanje diska. Uspješno baca i kuglu.
Pobjeđivao je na balkanskim prvenstvima za mlađe i starije juniore
– 2009; iste godine na Evropskom
prvenstvu mladih u Tampereu bio je
četvrti, a u Talinu 2010. srebrni… Na
Evropskom zimskom kupu za bacačke discipline osvojio je zlatnu medalju (nacionalnim rekordom 60,24
m)… U Luksemburgu krajem maja
ove godine osvojio je zlatne medalje u objema disciplinama…
Nacionalni rekordi:
bacanje diska: 64,60 m – 10. 3. 2013,
Bar
bacanje kugle: 18,43 m – 28. 5. 2013,
Luksemburg
FURTULA: Upoznao sam brojne vrhunske
sportiste iz raznih sportova i disciplina, što
mi je značilo jer sam i od njih učio – principom očiglednosti. Naučio sam mnogo
gledajući i trenirajući u kampovima gdje
se pripremaju olimpijski, svjetski i evropski
šampioni..
– Kako izgledaju tvoje pripreme? Da
li ponekad poželiš da odustaneš, da li
pomisliš: uh, ovo je teško?
FURTULA: Pripreme su jako teške, gotovo
surove, pogotovu u pojedinačnim sportovima, ali to je sport! U pojedinačnim sportovima sve zavisi od vas, dok je trener tu
da vam pomogne, da vas podrži. Teško je
ponekad izdržati i fizički, ali i psihički; to
su ogromni napori, treninzi dva puta na
dan, nekad i tri puta… Sve su to ogromna
odricanja. Dešavaju se krize naravno, naročito onda kada dajete sve od sebe, a ne
ide vam od ruke ništa… Tada je najteže,
tada ste na ispitu: da li ste kadri pobijediti sebe samog, prvo sebe, pa onda sve
što stoji pred vama kao prepreka ka cilju..
Ako jeste, tek tada možete ići u borbu sa
protivnicima. Dakle, sportski život je, u
132
najvećem dijelu – spartanski život; to je
život pun teških, ali i veličanstvenih trenutaka… Dešavalo mi se, naiđu takvi trenuci,
kad sam poželio da odustanem od svega,
da pobjegnem od svega, a onda shvatim
da ono što je lako mogu svi drugi, a ono
što je stvarno teško mogu samo rijetki…
Pa idem dalje!
– Kako izgleda tvoje slobodno vrijeme?
Kako se odmaraš?
FURTULA: Nekako mi je najugodnije i najviše mi prija – čitanje! Čitajući, zamišljam
scene, likove, prirodu…, pustim mašti na
volju… Tako se opustim od svakodnevnih
problema i izazova.
– Postoji li nešto od čega je tako snažnog momka strah?
FURTULA: Hahaha…, iskreno, nemam nekih strahova…, baš nemam, ali uvijek treba biti oprezan i obazriv.
– Kako te dočekaju kući, u Mojkovcu, u
Crnoj Gori…?
FURTULA: Kući me uvijek dočekaju sa
puno ljubavi, obaspu me pažnjom, toplinom…, vidim da su jedva čekali da dođem. To je sjajan osjećaj. Poznanici i sugrađani me, bar ja tako osjećam, uvažavaju i
podržavaju. U Crnoj Gori se najljepše osjećam, naravno, jer tu pripadam i dušom i
tijelom… Imam zaista taj osjećaj da sam
u narodu prihvaćen, možda čak i omiljen,
i to mi, priznajem, mnogo prija i veoma,
veoma znači…
– Koji su planovi pred tobom?
FURTULA: Prvo želim da krajem juna na
Mediteranskim igrama uzmem medalju,
onda ću po medalju na Evropsko prvenstvo.
– Ma nemoj!?
FURTULA: Hahaha…, hoću! Evropsko za
mlađe seniore, u Finsku… I, kao krunu
svega, želim da uđem u finale Svjetskog
prvenstva u Moskvi…
– Samo naprijed! A šta za tebe predstavlja odlazak na Olimpijadu, koja te
izgleda čeka…?
FURTULA: Olimpijada je najviši nivo takmičenja, najgledanija sportska manifestacija, doba kad prestaje sve, kad sve izblijedi, a ostane samo sport i nad njim duh
olimpizma, koji miri sve narode, sve države, sve ljude… Što je veliko, veličanstveno.
Za mene je London 2012. bio veliki korak
naprijed, veliko iskustvo i motiv da jednog
dana budem i osvajač olimpijske medalje.
Možda već u Riu de Žaneiru 2016…
– Dakle, otuda ćeš nam donijeti…?
FURTULA: Sve što osvojim!
SPORT – Danijel Furtula, discus
thrower and shot-putter
Medals for the
lion heart
O
Interviewer: Nada Bukilić
Photography: private archive
We are all crazy about football, handball, basketball...but besides those sports, we also
love – medals! The golden ones especially, which shine on the chests of our top young
athletes! As we watch our sporting idol ascending the triumphant pedestal, it always
seems as if whole our country is celebrating, and that its good name is spreading
together with good name of that athlete! The best and most beautiful image of us
was spread around Europe and the world, by a young man from Mojkovac, Danijel
Furtula, a gold medal winner at the last European Championships of small countries.
ur love for successful athletes is selfish, but also full of pride and admiration. With all those feelings, we fear
for our athletes, support them and welcome
them! The winning of medals, the anthem
in honor of the winner, congratulations, the
return of the athlete...these are the moments
when both the athlete and all of us, know that
we have a joint and beautiful home of our
own! The home where it is possible to build
an extraordinary sportsman, even when conditions are not the most favorable... Individual
sports, such as the disciplines Furtula practices – disc throwing and shot-putting – are
in themselves isolated, separate efforts and
endeavors; special sports that can be practiced only by extraordinary, strong individuals
– without the spotlight and without a big
audience, often lonely and improved on by
hard work and a strong, steel will. In our country, that lonely fight is even more obvious
and harder, because we can only hope that
disc throwing and shot-putting will become
more popular sports with the experiences
and results of Furtula... Tough going separates the men from the boys, as our old people
would say – and exactly in light of that truth,
Furtula’s success shines with a brighter light
and means much more than a medal. Danijel Furtula has become a role model and an
encouraging authority for young people,
because he proved them that stars may be
reached with perseverance, work and will
power.
You were born in a picturesque, but small
town. In addition, Montenegro has no
tradition in the events you are practicing.
How come that you did not do what all
the other kids did: chase a ball?
You are very young, and your sign is Leo
in the horoscope, so, can you describe
yourself like a lion in five, or six words?
FURTULA: Hahaha... Yes, I am Leo, and I can
tell you that it is important for many people,
although I am not so sure if it could be related
to my success or strength. But, as every Leo, I
would describe myself in this way: stubborn,
persistent, honest, caring, and positive.
What do you consider to be your greatest
sport success, and what personally, intimately important?
FURTULA: I believe that my greatest sport
success is this: I have succeeded in raising
and affirming myself through sport, I have
managed to become independent, and I am
aware that my life, and in a way, the life of my
family, is in my hands. And intimately, I believe that my greatest success is when I make
the people I love and that mean the world to
me, happy...like, for example, my family.
How did you feel when you won the gold
medal at the European Championships?
What does it mean for a young man to represent his small homeland, against the
great sporting powers?
Who was your strongest support?
FURTULA: It is truly magnificent to win a medal in a competition that big! It is something
that one can rarely experience, and it is something not so often achieved even by the
best among sportsmen. However, those who
have had the honor to stand below the flag
of their country, the flag that began fluttering because of them and in honor of them...
Well, that is something really, really special. To
listen to the anthem, while the medal is on
your chest! Magnificent! I can tell you, as a
sportsman, that it is a special kind of responsibility, but for me, above all – an honor. I perceive it in such a way: I have a feeling that it is
success achieved in a sport, or “modern war”
for honor and for my nation.
FURTULA: As may be expected from the very
What are those minutes before you throw
FURTULA: I have to admit that my first sporting steps were made in football! I began training when I was six, or seven, because most
of my peers did the same. At that age you are
becoming aware of your own being, and you
recognize the early needs for affirmation and
proving yourself. I was hungry for success, so I
could not resist that challenge... Anyway, you
are right, Montenegro has no tradition in the
disciplines I later chose, but the story with discus throwing and shot-putting began much
later, spontaneously and somehow, accidentally.
134
beginning, I was lucky to get the greatest
support from my family: mother Nataša, sister
Danka and father Mileta. They are my strongest support, my strength. But also, I have to
mention my coach Danilo Krtinić – he is my
motivator, my initiator, support, visionary...my
“other half” in every competition...on each
winning pedestal.
the discus like? And what do you feel
in those moments? What do you think
about?
FURTULA: Huh...honestly, it is very difficult
until the competition actually begins. You are
anxious, the body is strained and your excitement is growing with every minute... all kinds
of feelings are gushing up, a desire grows...
I do not have any special mantra before a
competition I rather try to focus on staying
calm, regardless of what I feel and then to
turn it all into results, by staying calm.
What is your best result so far? And what
is the result you are dreaming of?
FURTULA: Currently, my best result is 64.60
meters, which is at the moment the farthest
discus throw in the world (for younger seniors), and I expect to throw even farther this
year. And now, wishes...well, I wish to win
an Olympic medal. It would be something
special, and somehow I feel...I think that I can
even do that.
What do you like besides sport?
FURTULA: I love socializing, because I love
people. However, I like it more when someone or something sets a challenge before me.
Because you can get to know life, yourself
and people around you, through resisting or
conquering those challenges... I am studying,
because I also love that, and it is important to
me to improve myself. What also interests me
is the other side of my personality and my dealings with other people, and that is my will
and need to help... I like to help good, honorable people, the uncorrupted and modest
ones, and when I can, the poor ones. That
is important to me, and I manage to help,
since the love and tenderness I am getting
from my own home and family, gives me the
strength.
Handball coach, Dragan Adžić insists on
sportsmen reading, and believes that books are “opening new worlds” to young
people, that they influence self-awareness and understanding for other people.
FURTULA: Of course, as I have already said –
one should study, read, learn as much as possible. I completely agree with Adžić. I think
that exactly by believing in the power of
books, I have built my victorious spirit, expanded my knowledge, developed patience,
135
ID card
Danijel Furtula is an athlete of basketball height (195 cm) and was
born on 31 July 1992 in Mojkovac,
Montenegro. He is a member of the
Athletic club Tara, and the discipline
in which he has achieved the greatest success is discus throwing. Because of his great results, he has begun shot-putting, also successfully.
He won the Balkan championships
for younger and senior juniors in
2009; the same year, he won fourth
place at the European Championship for young people in Tampere, and in Tallinn, in 2010, he won
the silver medal. He won the gold
medal at the European Winter Cup
for throwing events (national record
60.24)... He won gold medals in both
disciplines in Luxembourg, at the
end of May this year.
National records:
Disc throwing – 64.60 m, 10 March
2013 Bar
Shot-putting – 18.43 m, 28 May
2013 Luxembourg
and what is maybe the most important in
sport, strengthened my self confidence.
Have you met any of the interesting,
widely known athletes?
FURTULA: I have met numerous top athletes
from different sports and disciplines, which
meant a lot to me, because I also learned
from them. I also learned a lot just by observing and training in camps where the Olympic, World and European champions were
preparing.
especially when you are giving your best, but
nothing is going your way... It is the hardest
thing, and a kind of exam: are you capable of
defeating it all, first yourself, and then all that
is standing in your way as an obstacle towards the goal. If you are, only then can you go
and fight your opponents. Therefore, a sporting life is mostly a Spartan life; it is the life full
of difficult, but also magnificent moments...
It happened to me...such moments have
come, when I wished to give up everything,
to run away from everything...and then I realized that anyone could do what was easy, but
only a few what was truly hard... So, I move
on!
I feel the best when I am in Montenegro, of
course, because this is where I belong in my
heart and my body...I really have the feeling
that I am accepted among people, maybe
even popular, and I have to admit that it feels
good and means very, very much to me.
What does your free time look like? How
do you rest?
FURTULA: Hahaha...I will! The European
Championship for younger seniors, in Finland... And, as a crowning glory, I wish to get
to the final of the World Championships in
Moscow.
FURTULA: The most pleasant and appealing
thing for me is – reading! When I read, I am
imagining scenes, characters, nature...I let
my imagination flow... And thus I relax from
everyday problems and challenges.
Is there anything that can scare such a
strong guy?
What do your preparations look like? Do
you ever wish to give up, do you ever
think: Oh, this is tough!
FURTULA: Hahahah...honestly, I do not have
any special fears...I really don’t...but you always
have to be careful and cautious.
FURTULA: Preparations are very hard, almost
brutal, especially in individual sports...but,
that is sport! Everything depends on you in
individual sport, while the coach is there to
help you and support you. It is sometimes
hard to endure both physically and mentally;
those are enormous efforts, training twice a
day, sometimes even three times... It is all an
enormous sacrifice. Crises happen, of course,
How are you welcomed in your home...in
Mojkovac...in Montenegro...?
136
FURTULA: I am always welcomed with a lot
of love in my home...I am overwhelmed with
the attention and warmth... I can tell that they
could not wait to see me. That is a great feeling. Acquaintances and fellow citizens respect and support me, at least I feel that way...
What plans are ahead of you?
FURTULA: First, I want to win a medal in the
Mediterranean Games at the end of June,
and then I will go to get a medal at the European Championships.
You don’t say!?
Just go ahead! And what does going to
the Olympic Games, which seems to be
ahead, mean to you?
FURTULA: The Olympics is the highest level
of competition, the most watched sporting
event. A time when everything stops, and fades...and only sport remains, and the Olympic
spirit appears, which reconciles all peoples,
all countries, everybody. London 2012 was a
huge step for me, a great experience and a
motivation to win an Olympic medal someday. Maybe even in Rio Di Janeiro in 2016.
So, what will you bring us from there?
FURTULA: All that I win!
since 1992
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140
utovala sam ka moru, po svom običaju –
sporednim putevima, i po njegovom običaju
– izdalo me auto! Krenuh pješke da tražim
pomoć. Od vreline je stari asfalt bio omekšao, pa
kao da sam koračala po ljepljivoj traci. Zarubljena
livada zdesna bijaše urešena cvjetićima koji su se
još odupirali suvom ljetu i suncu. Nadvisivalo ju je
vitko borje iza kojeg se uzbrdo nastavljao šumarak
prošaran malikom, ružmarinom i trnjem. Sa lijeve
strane puta samo sparušena trava i grmlje – široko,
žućkasto polje iskošeno od ivice puta naniže, ka
glavnoj auto-cesti. Cesta je kao linija vidikovca,
izlomljena i oštro urezana nad ponorom. Odozdo
zijevaju gladni zubi stijena o koje biju talasi. Sve
dovde se čuje njihov jek. Iako bi mi bilo mnogo
bliže, nisam se usudila da kosinom siđem dolje, na
cestu: sa papuča su mi svako malo klizala stopala,
pa bi me suva trava i oštri vrhovi izlomljenog
trnja izgrebli i povrijedili. Strpljivo sam koračala
izranjavanim asfaltom seoskog puta. Vidi se da su
ga davno sami radili žitelji obližnjih zaselaka, da
se brže i lakše spuste do grada, do mora. Zavijutci
su na svakih stotinjak metara; nenadno put vodi
uz brijeg ili se spušta između livadica i, čini se,
još više se udaljava od onog željenog oboda
šume, da bi se opet k njemu vratio, pobjegavši iz
zagrljaja stijena na ivicu odakle puca pogled na
platinasto blještavo more. Mještane je vodio cilj –
da putem dospiju, najbliže što se može, i ka onim
kućama koje su visoko u brdu, i koje odozgo, iz
siromašnih vinograda stepenasto razuđenih po
kamenim terasama, gledaju čeomice na pučinu,
obasjane i zimi oštrim zracima svjetlosti. Vodili
su računa da ionako posnu zemlju ne oštete, pa
se put probija kroz uske ucjepe stjenovitih strana,
krivuda između neplodnih ravnina, gdje je zemlja
toliko pjeskovita i suva da ni najžilavije travke
na njoj ne mogu dugo. Razmišljala sam o tim
osamljenim vrijednim ljudima, koji su ovaj put
sigurno radili sa uzbuđujućom nadom da će sa
njim sve biti bolje. Svaki dan koji dožive u suštini
je jedan mali boj u velikom ratu života; u životu
po strani, daleko i predaleko od svijeta o kojem
slušaju preko radija ili ga gledaju na televizorima
sa slabim tv signalom. Nakon sjenovitih dvjestatrista metara izbih opet između ruba borove šume
i vidikovca…
Iznenadni glas ptica nad glavom mi prelomi
misli. Zagledah se u nebo, pepeljasto od jare.
Tamo iznad borova nešto je izazvalo plahe letačice
i one su izlijetale jedna za drugom, hvatale širok
polukrug nad vrhovima borova, a onda su se, kao
uigrani artisti, hvatale za nebeski trapez i njišući se
u jednakom ritmu spuštale ka bjelasastoj površini
vode…
Ptičje glasove zamijeni smijeh. Ubrzah korak.
Smijeh se istanji, utiša i nesta nad putem. Upravo
sam bila na dionici koja je hvatala polukrug
ulijevo – zbog krivine nisam vidjela ko je na putu,
a kada je savladah, pred sobom ugledah dječaka,
ne starijeg od dvanaest. To se on smijao, nije
bilo nikog drugog. Usporih. Nisam htjela da me
odmah čuje. Dječak je vrludao putem, zastajkivao,
osmatrao… Nakon nekoliko koraka, sagnuo bi se
i zagledao u travu i među kamenčiće kraj puta …
ah, dijete! Meni treba pomoć! Dječak sigurno zna
ima li đe benzinska pumpa ili kakav auto-servis…
O, da, bilo je krasno to što sam naišla na njega!
Ali, nešto me navelo da ga ćutke posmatram.
Dječak je i dalje hodao bez žurbe. Zanimalo
ga je sve. Stao bi da osmotri nebo –gledao je u
nešto iznad sebe vrlo pažljivo; onda se okretao
ka moru – i tamo bi isto vidio nešto značajno.
Možda brodice koje su se ljuljuškale u daljini. Ja
nisam vidjela ništa posebno ili neobično. Zatim se
okretao ka borovima, činilo se da zagleda jedan po
jedan; zastane, osmotri pa korakne dva-tri puta;
opet zastane, savije se skroz iz struka kao da će
zauzeti start za trku, a onda samo gleda i gleda u
bor, pa opet nađe razlog i pomjeri se malo tamo,
malo ovamo, ne ispravljajući se; uglavnom, ne
izlazi iz prostora koji kao da je obilježio na jedan
jedini kvadratni metar. Već mi je dosadilo da
ćutim iza, pa požurih. Baš kad sam pomislila da
će me čuti, jer su moje papuče zveckale po sitnim
razbacanim kamenčićima, dječak zastade i poče se
smijati iz sve snage!? Okretao se oko sebe raširenih
ruku, tvrdo zatvorivši oči, i smijao se, smijao, tako
glasno da sem njegovog smijeha ništa više ne čuh:
ni huk talasa, ni ptice, ni sopstvene papuče…
„E sad je stvarno dosta, inače nikad neću stići do
pumpe”, pomislih. Zovnuh: „Mali!” Učini mi se
to ružnim, pa se ispravih: „Dječače!?” On zastade,
ispravi se, ali glavu podiže ka nebu. Držeći i dalje
raširene ruke, upinjao je glavom istežući vrat, a
mršave nogice u platnenim patikama skupio
je u koljenima tako da je ličio na malog Isusa,
razapetog na nevidljivom krstu. Stadoh. Nisam
ga smjela zvati. Opet se smijao sasvim nesvjestan
mog prisustva. Sunce mi je sa te strane udaralao
u oči pa sam dječaka vidjela kao sivkastu priliku
142
sa neodređenom modrinom iza, i to mi smuti i
razbaca misli. Neobično ponašanje potpuno me
zbunilo. U jednom trenutku prilika se umiri, ne
bi ni glasa, i dječakova glava pade na slabašne
grudi. Ručice su još stajale raširene i bez pokreta.
Samo je jedan kraj njegove košulje poigravao na
blagom vjetru. Uplaših se. I, umjesto da odem do
dječaka, zaobiđoh ga u velikom luku, pa nastavih
svoj put, ali hodajući natraške i sve gledajući u
malog Isusa na seoskom starom putu. Sada je
slika iza njega bila drugačija – iza jednog ramena
sivkasti bor, iza drugog parče neba, a on sam,
sada gledajući, bijaše osvijetljen: košuljica mu je
bila žućkasta, pantalonice i patike u istoj plavoj
boji. Ali nikako nisam mogla vidjeti dječakovo
lice: toliko bijaše pognuo glavu da sam vidjela
samo u jednu stranu nagužvanu kosu, onako
kakva je kosa u djece obično nakon buđenja.
„Čudna li đeteta, čudna li đeteta”, uplaših se još
više i htjedoh već da potrčim što dalje od njega,
kad se desi neočekivano: sa pučine se, preko sve
one silne vode, pa gore ka brdu, pruži toliko jak
snop svjetlosti da mi kao dugom oštrom sabljom,
niotkuda bačenom, raspoluti cio vidokrug.
Svjetlo je rezalo poprijeko i dječaka: gore, iznad
svjetlosne sablje, ugledah njegovo nasmijano lice i
sada širom otvorene oči, a dolje par plavih patikica
nad kojima su se ukazivale noge. Ruke dječakove
se nisu vidjele jer je svjetlost pratila njihov položaj
– one su još bile onako raširene. Prešavši tako
preko dječakovih ruku, koje su joj pokazale put,
svjetlost je kidisala ka brdu. Udari ga, ali otuda
se u milionima sitnih svitaca rasprši i zabljeska
– i na tren nestadoše i dječak i dio puta i parče
brda … sve! Ni ne trepnuh, a svjetlo nesta i sve
opet bi isto: pod nogama meki stari asfalt, pred
očima sivkasti borovi s jedne, i morska modrina
podno žutog polja s druge strane, glavna cesta
kojom proletješe dva automobila, jara u vazduhu i
pucketavo drhtanje sasušenih grančica ukraj puta
… i dječak. To neobično luckasto dijete, ta mala
drumska avet…
Odozgo, na moje čuđenje, trepnu prozor i jedna
žena zovnu: „Sine, ’ajde da ručaš!”
Dječak zapljeska rukama i opet se nasmija
mangupski i gotovo suludo kao prije. „Odma’ ću.
Evo ga, stiže i tata”, doviknu dijete i odjednom
krenu ka meni. Bi mi jasno da me je već uočio i bi
me stid što sam koraknula unazad.
„Teto, jeste li dobro”, upita me umiljato, djetinje.
Očito je o meni pomislio: gradska luda sama
luta… „Jesam, jesam… samo nisam… ne znam
đe sam”, zamuckivah. „Mora da vam je neđe stao
auto?” „Jeste. Stao mi auto”, odgovorih. „Pa, ništa
za to. Dođite sa mnom, brzo će moj tata… a onda
će vam on popraviti sve”, reče dječak, priđe mi i
uze me za ruku, pa sa mnom uz brdo, kući.
I ja koračah uz brdo, papučama po oštrom kršu
prilaza ka kući, čvrsto se držeći za dječakovu
mršavu ručicu… i smrači mi se pred očima...
Satima kasnije probudih se u nepoznatoj sobi, na
tuđem krevetu. Raznježiše me vezena jastučnica
pod obrazom i njen blagi miris. Predvečerje je
kroz prozor unosilo jugo. Vani su se otac i sin
dovikivali radeći oko mog automobila. Uđe
ljubazna dječakova majka i pozva me na kafu.
Izađoh na terasu. Tek sad sagledah svu ljepotu
ovog mjesta: uz vremenom isklesane skulpture
od stijena, cvjetala je raskošna šarena bašta,
ponegdje široka jedva metar; nad njom su se
uznosile puzavice i, pletući se i granajući uz
ogradu terase, uz kamene izbočine na stijenama
i uz grane koje su štrčale sa žbunja, pele su se ka
metalnom krevetu po kome su listale loze. Pčele i
ose su horski zujale oko nedozrelog grožđa i tamo
podalje, oko debelih bijelih dudova. Iza te cijele
slike bjelasalo se, prilično nisko, veličanstveno
more. Cio svijet se vidio odavde. Dječakova majka
je pila kafu zagledujući me i kazivala mi o životu
u ovoj samštini. Između ostalog reče: „Drugovi
su mu podaleko, igra se sam samcit po cijeli dan.
Posebno ovako ljeti, kad nema škole. Al’ on ne
mari… Zabavlja se nekim svojim igrama i uvijek
smisli nešto drugačije. Ovog ljeta je tražio da mu
se javljam svjetlosnim signalima, pa ja, što god
da radim po kući, s vremena na vrijeme odem do
onog prozora, otvorim ga i ma’nem krilom desnolijevo… Znam udariće zraka staklo, zacakliće, i
on će, đe god da je, viđeti da sam se to ja sjetila
njega…”
„Ha, rekoh, pa to je baš lijepo!”
„Ne sporim, reče dječakova majka, jeste. Sad mu
se i otac sa brodice tako javlja kad krene natrag s
ribanja. I desi se ponekad, pričao mi je, da nađe
određeno mjesto na putu, stoji tu i čeka. Čeka da
se sudare i svežu ujedno moj i očev signal sa mora,
da zabljesnu jedan u drugi. Tada je on najsrećniji:
sve troje smo u isto vrijeme pomislili jedni na
druge…”
„To je, gospođo, ponovih sigurnim glasom, zaista
prelijepo!”
„Eto… Ali, to je i tužno… usamljeno dijete…”,
reče, i ona tužna.
Pomislih koliko puta sam ja poželjela da budem
„sama samcita” kao moj mali spasilac! Koliko puta
sam poželjela da budem nevidljiva sve dok… sve
dok… Sve dok odrastem do neranjavanja.
Kasnije, ona postavi sto na toj istoj terasi i okupi
nas da večeramo. Za večerom su mi objasnili šta
je bilo sa mnom: sunčanica je uzela svoj danak, pa
su me spremili u postelju. Prespavala sam cijelo
popodne. Sada smo i auto i ja bili „kao novi” i
mogli smo na put! Pozdravih se sa svima kao sa
najrođenijima. Dječaka poljubih u oba oka, sa
sunčano zlatnim prstenjem oko zenica…
***
Evo me opet na istom mjestu. Zaustavih auto i
izađoh. Pogledah: iznad stijenja je ivica poznate
nadstrešice i tenda žućkaste boje, pa onda loza,
osuta sunčanim pečatima i vrhovi dudova…
Ispod njih je mirisna hladovina i terasa sa koje se
vidi cio svijet! Iskosih retrovizor, uhvatih sunčevo
oko i ono bljesnu ka prozoru. Prozor mi namignu.
Čekaju me prijatelji…
143
PRIJEM I SLANJE
NOVCA
www.wu-cg.me
Let me tell you a story
A GAME
Written by: Nada Bukilić
Illustrated by: Davor Golubović
O
sole, sole miooo... I’m humming while
driving along the narrow road on the
south side of the hill. The familiar
landscape brings joy to my soul. I fell in love with
this rocky soil some years ago in a very unusual
way.
I was travelling to the sea, by the back roads and
as usual the car failed me! I set out on foot to seek
help. The old asphalt was softened by the heat as
I walked down it, and the meadow to the right,
was adorned with flowers still resisting the dry
summer and sun. It was flanked by slender pine
trees beyond which the hill continued to a small
forest dotted with bushes, rosemary and thorns.
On the left side of the road there was just a barren
area of grass and shrubs - a broad, yellowish field
sloping down from the side of the road, to the
main road. The road was like a zigzag and formed
a sharply curving line above the abyss. Hungry
rocks lay at the foot of the cliff on which the waves
beat. Their crashing could be heard everywhere.
Although it would be much quicker I did not
dare come down to the road by the slope: my feet
slipped every now and then and the dry grass and
sharp broken thorns scratched and injured me. I
patiently walked along the asphalt of the country
road. You could see that it was constructed just
the residents of the nearby villages, to make
it quicker and easier when descending to the
city and the sea. There were bends about every
hundred meters; and it seemed to still shift away
from the edge of the forest, to turn its back to
it and running away from the embrace of the
rocks on the edge, offering a view of the platinum
146
glittering sea. Residents were led to their goal to reach the road, as close as possible, even those
houses high in the mountains, which faced the
sea. They made sure not to damage the already
barren soil, so the road ran through narrow
passages with rocky sides, meandering among
infertile planes, where the land is so dry and sandy
that even the toughest grass can’t stay on it long.
I was thinking about those lonely, hard-working
people, who had constructed this road with the
hope that all would be better with it. Every day
their experience is essentially a small battle in a
big war; in a life apart, far away from the world
about which they only knew by listening to the
radio or watching it on TV, with poor reception.
After two hundred, three hundred shady meters,
I came again between the edge of the pine forest
and the cliff.
The sudden sound of birds overhead broke my
thoughts. I looked up at the sky, ash grey from the
heat. Something had provoked the timid birds,
there, above the pines and they flew out one after
another, taking a wide semicircle over the tops of
the pine trees, and then, like well trained artists,
caught the divine trapeze and swinging in the
same rhythm, descended to the whitefish surface
of water.
The bird’s song was replaced by laughter. I speeded
up. The laughter became thinner and gradually
disappeared over the path. I was on a section turning
in half a circle to the left – because of the curve I
could not see who was on the path, and when I
passed it, I saw a boy, in front of me, not older than
twelve. That was him laughing, there was nobody
else. I slowed down. I did not want him to hear
me immediately. The boy wandered by the road,
halted, watched... After a few steps, he bent down
and looked at the grass and among the rocks by the
way... Oh, child! I need help! The boy must know if
there is gas station or auto repair shop any where...
Oh, yes, it was great that I came across him! But
something made ​​me watch him silently.
The boy continued walking without hurry. He
was interested in everything. He stopped to take
a look at the sky - looking at something above
him very carefully; then he turned toward the sea
– as if there he would see something significant.
Maybe, boats were sailing in the distance. I did not
see anything special or unusual. Then he turned
toward the pine trees, it seemed he was looking at
them one by one; paused, and glanced up, stepped
forward two or three times; paused, bent down
all the way from the waist as if at the start of a
race, and then just watched the trees, and moved
a little bit there, a little here, not straightening up,
he did not get out of the area that seemed marked
by him on a single square meter. I was already
tired of being here and so I hurried towards him.
Just when I thought that he would hear me,
because my shoes moved and crashed on
the small, scattered stones, the
boy stopped and began
to laugh with
all his might!?
He turned
around with
open arms,
closing
his
eyes firmly, and laughed, laughed, so loudly that I
could no longer hear anything except his laughter:
not the roar of the waves, or the birds, or my own
shoes.
“Now, this is really enough, because otherwise
I’ll never get to the gas station”, I thought. I
called to him: “Hey you!” It sounded impolite,
so I corrected myself, “You boy!?” He paused,
straightened up, but raised his head to the sky. Still
holding his arms outstretched, craning his head
with a stretched neck and gathered in the knees of
his skinny little legs in canvas sneakers, so that he
looked like a little Jesus, crucified on an invisible
cross. I stopped. I should
not have called
him. He laughed again quite unaware of my
presence. The sun was in my eyes from that side,
and I could only see the boy as a grayish human
figure with indefinite blue behind, that confused
me, scattering my thoughts. The unusual behavior
totally confused me. At a certain moment, the
figure calmed down, there was no sound, and the
boy’s head fell to onto his chest. His little hands
still remained widespread and motionless. Only
one end of his shirt waved in the gentle breeze.
I was scared. So, instead of going to the boy, I
walked around him in a big circle and continued
on my way, but walking backwards, staring at the
baby Jesus on the old village road. Now, the image
behind him was different - behind one shoulder
there was a grayish tree, behind another a piece
of sky, and he was highlighted: his little shirt was
yellowish, his shorts and shoes in the same blue
color. But there was no way to see the boy’s face:
he had bent his head so much that I could see
only one side of his rumpled hair. “What a strange
child, what a strange child, I was frightened even
more, and would have not run away from him
as far as possible, when something unexpected
happened: a strong light beam came from the
open sea, through all the mighty waters, then up
the hill into half of my entire field of vision, like
by a long, sharp sword thrown out from nowhere.
The light also struck the boy, the top of him above
the light sabre, I saw his smiling face and his eyes
now wide open and below a pair of little blue
sneakers. The boy’s hands were not visible because
of the light, they were still so widespread. Having
crossed over the boy’s hands, showing it the way,
the light continued towards the hill. It hit there,
scattering and flashing in millions of tiny fireflies
- and for a moment the boy and a piece of the hill
disappeared... everything! I do not even blink, and
the light vanished and everything again became
as before: the soft, old asphalt underfoot, grayish
trees on one side and the blue sea below the yellow
field, on the other side, the main road with two
cars driving along it, and a boy. That strange, silly
child, a little road specter...
148
From above, to my amazement, blinked a window
and a woman called out: “Son, you need to have
lunch now!”
The boy applauded and laughed again as rowdy
and ludicrously as before. “I’m coming right
away. Here’s someone else”, hailed the child, and
suddenly moved toward me. I realized that he had
already noticed me and was so ashamed that I
took a step back.
“Are you okay, ma’am”, he asked me sweetly,
childishly. Obviously he thought of me as: a
stupid person from the city wandering alone...
“Yeah, yeah... I just do not know where I am”, I
stuttered. “Somewhere there must be your car?”
“Yes. My car broke down”, I responded. “Well,
never mind. Come with me, my dad will come
quickly... and then he will fix everything”, said the
boy, came up to me and took me by the hand, and
setting off with me, up the hill, home.
So, I walked uphill, over sharp rocky terrain
approaching the house, firmly clutching the boy’s
little hand... and everything grew dark in front of
my eyes...
Hours later I woke up in an unknown room, a
strange bed. I was affected by an embroidered pillow
under my cheek and its gentle scent. The early
evening south wind came through the window.
Outdoors, the father and son were working around
my car. The boy’s mother entered and invited me
to have coffee. I went out on the terrace. Only
now I realized all the beauty of this place: next
to the time carved sculptures made out of rocks,
flourished a lavish, colorful garden, somewhere
barely a meter wide; against it creepers ascended,
braiding and branching along the balcony’s fence,
rocks and branches sticking out of the bushes,
climbed to the metal vine girder covered with
leaves. Bees and wasps buzzed in chorus around
immature grapes out there and around some thick,
white mulberry trees. Behind that whole picture,
lay, glimmering the magnificent sea. The whole
world was visible from there. The boy’s mother
was drinking coffee staring at me and telling me
about life in this solitude. Among other things,
she said: “His friends are far away, he plays alone
all day. Especially now in the summer, when there
is no school. But he does not mind… Having fun
with some of his games and always thinking up
something different. This summer, he asked me
to give him signal lights, and, from time to time,
whatever I am doing at home, I go to the window,
open it and move it right or left... I know, the
sunrays will hit the glass, glisten, and wherever
he is, he will see that I am thinking about him...”
“Ha, that’s really nice!”, I said.
“I do not deny it” said the boy’s mother.” His
father gives him signals from the boat when it
sets off fishing. He told me, that sometimes he
finds some place on the road, and stops there
waiting. Waiting to collide and bind into one, his
and his father’s signal from the sea flashing into
each other. Then he is the happiest: all three of
us, thinking about each other, at the same time...”
“That, madam, is really beautiful!” I repeated with
a confident voice.
“Well... But it’s sad… a lonely child...” she said,
also sad.
I thought of how many times I’ve
wanted to be “completely alone”
as my little rescuer! How
many times have I wanted
to be invisible until... until...
Until I reach invulnerability.
Later, she set the table on the
same balcony, gathering us
to dinner. Over dinner,
they
explained
what had happened to me: sunstroke had taken its
toll, so they put me to bed. I slept all afternoon.
Now, both the car and the driver were “like new”
and we could go on our trip! I said good-bye to
everyone as if they were the closest members of
my family.
***
Here I am in the same place again. I’ve stopped
the car and got out of it. I look: over the rocks
is the edge of the familiar eaves and yellowish
trees, then the grapes, covered by the tops of the
mulberry trees... Further down the scented shade
and a balcony from where you can see the whole
world! I move the mirror, catch the sun and flash
it toward the window. The window winks back.
My friends are waiting for me...
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Trg od kulture bb · +382 (0) 32 660 420
Ulcinj
Ulcinj
Ulica 26. novembra bb · +382 (0) 30 401 316
www.erstebank.me
Moja omiljena slika iz djetinjstva jeste ova: nas nekoliko dječaka i
djevojčica sjedimo na proplanku, smijemo se. Jedno ima kapu na
glavi, drugo povrijeđena koljena, treće je u jakni, četvrto žmuri…,
ali svi imamo „brkove i brade” – ljubičaste fleke od borovnica oko
usta, niz bradu. Meni su i oba dlana takva… Mali klovnovi!
Ima godinâ kada borovnice toliko rode da se ima šta brati danima
i sedmicama. Rukom brani plodovi pažljivo se odlžu u posude
obložene mekanom travom ili lišćem. Zatim se donose sa planine
do sela, gdje se za kuću ostavi dio, a ostalo se provjerava, pakuje
i – prodaje! Zbog uspomena, i danas kad naiđem na dijete koje
prodaje šumsko voće uz cestu, obavezno stajem i kupim makar
teglicu. Odavno i sâm otac, još jače vjerujem mom ocu da je borovnica najčistije zdravlje!
Crnogorska kužina –
slatko od borovnica
U ime zdravlja preporučujem jednostavnu poslasticu od borovnica: slatko! Treba znati da slatko od borovnica nije slatkiš! Ono
se pripravlja iz mnogo dubljih razloga. Nekada je jutro počinjalo
slatkim. Iz tegle se uzme ujutru samo kašičica slatkog, zatim se
popije čaša vode i čovjekov organizam odmah se razbudi. Šećer
iz voća daje neophodnu energiju za ono što čovjeka čeka tog
jutra. Tek poslije će se doručkovati, kad se obave jutarnji poslovi u
kući i oko kuće… To nenasilno slatko „buđenje organizma” veoma
je zdravo. Takođe, slatko je služilo i za dobrodošlicu: i danas po
crnogorskim selima ima domaćica koje će goste dočekati slatkim i vodom. Sami protumačite značenje i simboliku ovakvog
dočeka.
Kašičica
ljubičaste
sreće
Napisao i kuvao za vas: Đorđije N. Vlahović
Foto: Shutterstock
U crnogorskim planinama, posebno u
sjeveroistočnoj oblasti, raste obilje šumskog
voća, koje zrijeva od poznog proljeća pa
do kraja ljeta. Slatke sitne jagode, maline,
kupine, divlje višnje i trešnje, brojne vrste
jestivih gljiva i raznorazno ljekovito bilje,
obogaćuju crnogorske visine. Najljepši,
najzdraviji i najznačajniji voćni slatkiš jeste
njeno veličanstvo – borovnica!
154
U
albumu uspomena iz djetinjstva najdraže su mi slike sa
Visitora, Goleša, Sjekirice…, kuda me je sve „vukao” moj
otac, strastveno zaljubljen u visine. Iskreno uvjeren da je
„zdravlje u crnoj, rodnoj zemlji, u svakoj travci, svakom listiću na
grani i u krošnji lijeske”, naučio me je da razlikujem gljive, da opažam dugačke puteve šumskih i livadskih mrava, da ne uznemirim ose u njihovim kruškastim visećim košnicama i da, na osnovu
sjenki oko nas, gotovo bez greške očitam koliko je sati… A najljepša i najdraža od svih uspomena jeste slika sa borovnicama...
Brovnica (vaccinium mirtillus) jeste niski zimzeleni grm (visine od
20 do 30 cm, ponekad i do 50 cm), sićušnog cvijeta i sitnog bobičastog ploda tamnoljubičaste boje. Najčešće raste na proplancima i uz obod šuma. Izuzetno bogata vitaminima (A, C, B…) i
drugim sastojcima neophodnim za čovjekovo zdravlje, borovnica
je veoma djelotvoran antioksidans i često se računa u prirodne
ljekove, a ne samo u voće (list borovnice, ubran prije dozrijevanja
ploda, spada u vrlo zdrave čajeve, kao i čaj od suvih borovnica).
Njene plodove, koji, u zavisnosti od nadmorske visine na kojoj
rastu, dozrijevaju već početkom avgusta, pa sve do sredine septembra, najbolje je jesti svježe da bi se iskoristili svi kvaliteti ovog
čudesnog voća. Ali, od borovnica se spravljaju i izuzetno ukusni i
zdravi sokovi, džemovi i pekmezi, a posebanu aromu i boju borovnice daju domaćim likerima i vinima.
Slatko od borovnica je više od slatkog! Ako se pripremi na pravilan način, ono je sama esencija zdravlja. Neophodno je probrati
plodove (bobice ne smiju biti nagnječene ili premeke), oprati ih
svježom vodom i ostaviti da se dobro ocijede i prosuše. U široku šerpu sipati šećer i to u ovom omjeru: na kilogram borovnica
manje od pola kilograma šećera (ova mjera važi posebno za borovnice koje su dozrijevale na sunčanim stranama planina jer su
one uvijek nešto slađe; na one malo kiselkastije može se dodati
više šećera). Zatim šećer pokvasiti sa malo svježe vode, tek toliko
da bude vlažan, i staviti da se otopi na nevelikoj temperaturi. Kad
se šećer otopi i počne polako da vri, pretvarajući se u gust sirup,
dodati borovnice i ravnomjerno ih rasporediti po posudi - treba
ih ukuvati bez miješanja. Dovoljno je da se smješa, pošto uzavri,
prokuva još nekoliko minuta. Dodati vanilin šećer i, pred skidanje
sa vatre, kašiku-dvije ruma (ili nekog voćnog likera), što će zaštiti
slatko od nepotrebnog vrenja. Kad se sasvim ohladi, u čiste i suve
tegle sipati slatko, dobro zatvoriti i ostaviti na hladnom mjestu,
najbolje u frižideru. Ovako pripremljeno slatko ostaje svježe i po
dva-tri mjeseca. Naravno, poješćete ga mnogo prije ovog roka!
Ukoliko želite da duže ostane za upotrebu, onda slatko morate
kuvati nešto duže i sa više šećera (3 kg borovnica: 2,1–2,4 kg šećera). Nema, dakle, nikakvih konzervansa i sličnih štetnih tričarija.
Probajte! Iznenadite svoj organizam ovom ljubačastom srećom:
jedite borovnice u svakom obliku i svim povodima! Iskoristite darove neprikosnovenih crnogorskih planina! Eno, djeca uz cestu
već prodaju korpice borovnica…
Our service portfolio consists of:
•
•
•
•
•
Recruitment
Outsourcing / staff leasing / payroll
Screening / psychological analysis of employees
Working permits for foreigners
Consulting
Our branch offices are located in:
Budva
069/115–115
Podgorica 069/116–116
Niksic
069/114–114
Tren kwalder is leading HR ser vice provi de r i n M on te n eg ro
Montenegrin cuisine bilberry preserve
jams and marmalades, and bilberries provide a special flavor and
color to homemade liquors and wines.
A teaspoon
of purple
luck
My favorite picture from my childhood is like this: a few of us,
boys and girls, sitting in a meadow, laughing. One has a cap on
his head, another an injured knee, a third is wearing a jacket, a
fourth keeping his eyes closed... but we all have a “mustache and
beard” – purple bilberry stains around our mouth and down our
chins. We resemble little clowns.
In the mountains of Montenegro, especially in
the north-eastern areas, grows an abundance
of wild fruit, which ripens from late spring to
the end of summer. Sweet, tiny strawberries,
raspberries, blackberries, and cherries,
numerous types of edible mushrooms and
different medicinal herbs, enrich the heights of
Montenegro.The prettiest, healthiest and most
important of all is its majesty – the bilberry
In the name of health I recommend a simple dessert of bilberries:
a preserve! You should know that a preserves is not intended just
to sweeten; therefore it’s not a candy preserve! It is prepared from
much more profound reasons. Once, the morning began with
preserves. First thing in the morning, a teaspoon of preserves is
eaten straight out of the jar, then a glass of water is drunk and the
human body is immediately awakened. The sugar from the fruit
provides the necessary energy for a person in the morning. Only
later, when morning jobs in and around the house are done will
there be breakfast... Such a non-violent, sweet “awakening of the
Written and cooked for you by: Đorđije N. Vlahović
Photo: Shutterstock
I
n the album of memories from my childhood, closest to my
heart, are the pictures from visits to Goleš, Sjekirica and all
those location where I was “dragged” by my father, passionately in love with heights. Sincerely believing that “health is found
in black, fertile land, every leaf on the branch and every hazel
treetop”, he taught me to distinguish between different mushrooms, perceive the long paths of forest and meadow ants, not to
disturb the wasps in their bulbous hanging hives and based only
on the shadows around us, almost always correctly to be able to
say what time it was... And the most beautiful and nicest memory
of all is contained in those pictures featuring bilberries.
Bilberry, (Vaccinium mirtillus) is a low, evergreen shrub (20 to
30 cm tall, sometimes up to 50 cm), with tiny flowers and small,
berry, dark purple fruit. It most frequently grows in meadows and
along the forest perimeter. Extremely rich in vitamins (A, C, B...)
and other ingredients necessary for human health, the bilberry
is a very effective antioxidant and is often classified among natural medicines, not only fruits (the bilberry leaf, picked before
the ripening of the fruit, can be made into a very healthy tea). Its
fruit, which, depending on the altitude at which they grow, ripen
in early August to mid-September, is best eaten fresh in order to
take full advantages of the qualities of this wonderful fruit. One
can also make from bilberries extremely tasty and healthy juices,
In some years the bilberry harvest is so rich that you can pick
them for days and weeks. Handpicked fruits are carefully laid in
containers lined with soft grass or leaves. Then, they are brought from the mountain to the village, where a part is left for the
people at home, and the rest is checked, packed and - for sale!
Because of the memories, even now when I come across a child
selling berries along the road, I always stop and buy at least a jar.
I have been a father for a long time, and even more, thanks to my
father I believe that bilberries help create the purest health!
body” is very healthy. Also a preserve was served as a welcome:
even today in Montenegrin villages there are housewives who
still welcome guests with preserves and water. You can easily interpret the meaning and symbolism of such a welcome.
A bilberry preserves is more than a preserve! If prepared properly,
it’s the very essence of health. It is necessary to select the fruits
(the berries should not be squashed or too soft), wash them with
fresh water and leave to completely drain and dry out. Pour sugar
into a wide saucepan in this ratio: one kg of bilberries and less
than one kg of sugar. (This measure is especially true for those
bilberries that ripen on the sunny side of the mountains, as they
are always a little sweeter. For sourer ones you can add more sugar.) Then moisten the sugar with a little fresh water, just enough
to wet it, and leave it to melt slowly at a low temperature. When
the sugar melts and it begins to slowly ferment transforming into
thick syrup, add the bilberries by evenly distributing them in the
container. Allow them to slowly boil thoroughly without mixing.
It is enough that the mixture after boiling, continues boiling for
a few minutes. Add sugar and vanilla, and a spoon or two of
rum (or a fruit liqueur) before removal from the heat, which will
protect the preserve against unnecessary fermentation. When
completely cool, pour the preserve into clean and dry jars, tightly
close, and keep in a cool place, preferably in the refrigerator. Thus
prepared, the preserve will remain fresh for two or three months.
Although it is certain that you’ll eat it well before this period! If
you want it to stay longer in use, then you need to cook the preserve a little longer and with more sugar (3 kg of bilberries: 2.1 to
2.4 kg of sugar). Therefore, there are no preservatives and similar
harmful junk-food elements.
Web: www.hotelmnikic.com
e-mail: [email protected]
Kralja Nikole bb
81 000 Podgorica, Crna Gora
Tel: +382 78 115 550 ,
020 220 292
Fax: +382 78 115 554
H
otel M Nikić is located in the heart of the
city center, and Hotel M Nikić is a convenient place for guests coming for business
Our 71 room hotel offers range of amenities
a contemporary businessperson requires, services created to exceed the expectations of the
most demanding guests, and personnel which
will make your stay truly enjoyable. Modernly
designed guestrooms are all equipped with
“smart room” technology.
In addition, our hotel offers 220 m2 of modern
meeting space, 80-seat restaurant and fitness
center. Our conference room is equipped with
projector, screen, TVs and hotel’s own equipment for simultaneous translation.
For the very short time we received a many
awards including the award from international
agency for online booking “Price line,” which
is also the owner of popular booking.com
whose side we are the best ranked hotel.
Hotel “M Nikic” offers a free transfer from
airport to hotel and back.
H
otel M Nikić je smješten u samom centru
grada, I predstavlja pogodno mjesto za
poslovne ljude.
Naš hotel ima 71 sobu,svaka jeopremljena
sadrzajima koji su savremenom poslovnom
covjeku potrebni, sadrzajima o kojima naš
posvećeni personal brine i koji će sve naše
goste rasteretiti nepotrebnih briga. Moderno
dizajnirane sobe hotela M Nikić su opremljene
“smart room” tehnologijom.
Naš hotel nudi 220 m2 modernog konferencijskog prostora, restoran sa 80 mjesta i fitnes
centar. Naše sale za sastanke su opremljene
projektorom, platnom, televizorima i opremom za simultano prevođenje.
O nasem kvalitetu govori I to sto smo za vrlo
kratko vrijeme dobili niz velikih priznanja
medju kojim je I priznanje svetske agencije za
online rezervacije “Price line “ koji je ujedno I
vlasnik popularnog booking .com na cijoj smo
listi rangirani kao najbolji hotel sa najboljom
uslugom I najvise ostvarenih nocenje
Hotel “M Nikic” nudi besplatan transfer gostiju
od aerodrome do hotela I nazad.
ANKONA
PALERMO
KATANIJA
162
163
Online booking & buying
ušteda prilikom svake kupovine
www.montenegroairlines.com
KONTAKTI Direkcija
Head office
Beogradska 10, 81000 Podgorica
Montenegro (Serbia & Montenegro)
+ 382 20 405 500
+ 382 20 405 501
+ 382 20 405 548 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Informacije i rezervacije
Booking
+ 382 20 9804
+ 382 20 405 543 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Komercijalni sektor
Commerce department
+ 382 20 405 533
+ 382 20 405 535 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Sektor za marketing
i korporativne komunikacije
Marketing & Corporative
Communications Department
+ 382 20 405 538
+ 382 20 405 537 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
POSLOVNICE
Offices
Podgorica
Slobode 23, 81 000 Podgorica
+ 382 20 664 411
+ 382 20 664 433
+ 382 20 665 291 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Beograd / Belgrade
Knez Mihailova 23, 11 000 Beograd
+ 381 11 2621 122
+ 381 11 3036 535
+ 381 11 3036 536
+ 381 11 2181 861 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Budva
Slovenska obala bb, 86 000 Budva
+ 382 33 451 735
+ 382 33 456 244
+ 382 33 454 900 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
166
CONTACTS
www.montenegroairlines.com
Kotor
Stari grad 320, Zgrada turističkog fakulteta
+ 382 32 304 860
+ 382 32 304 861
+ 382 32 304 864
+ 382 32 304 865 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Kopenhagen / Copenhagen
Kopenhagen - Quality Air Tours
Adresa: Vester Voldgade 96, 4 sprat
1552 Copenhagen V, Denmark
+ 45 33 11 33 16
+ 45 33 11 54 55
e-mail: [email protected]
Beč / Vienna
Liechtensteinstrasse 12, Wien 1090
+ 43 19226289
+ 43 19226289
e-mail: [email protected]
Cirih / Zurich
Postfach 2419, 8058 Flughafen, Terminal 2
+ 41 43 816 7876
+ 41 43 816 7877
+ 41 43 816 7878
+ 41 43 816 7884 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Frankfurt
Terminal 2, halle d, 60547 Frankfurt am Main
+ 49 69 28 23 74
+ 49 69 28 11 76 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Rim / Rome
Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci,
Terminal 2, 00187 Roma
+ 39 06 6595 8661
e-mail: [email protected]
Pariz / Paris
120, avenue Des Champs Elysees
75008 PARIS
+ 33 1 42 25 08 69
+ 33 1 42 25 08 71 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
London
Grosvenor Gardens House, suite 112/3th floor
35-37 Grosvenor Gardens
London SW1W 0BS, United Kingdom
+ 44 (0) 207 8644 031
+ 44 (0) 207 8644 032
+ 44 (0) 207 8644 033 fax
e-mail: [email protected]
Moskva / Moscow
Montenegro Airlines
Kadesevskaja nabereznaja, br.6/1/2 str. 1.
+7 499 230 16 73
e-mail: [email protected]
Šalteri na
aerodromima
Airport offices
Podgorica
+ 382 20 445 105
+ 382 20 445 160 fax
+ 382 20 67 624 524 (GSM)
FLOTAFLEET
www.montenegroairlines.com
FOKKER 100
DIMENZIJE/DIMENSIONS
Razmah krila / Wing span
Ukupna dužina / Total lenght Ukupna visina / Total height
Prečnik trupa / Fuselage diameter
Površina krila / Wing area
PERFORMANSE / PERFORMANCE
Max brzina leta / Max operating speed Max brzina leta / Max operating speed
Max visina leta / Max operating altitude TEŽINE / WEIGHTS
Max težina bez goriva / Max zero fuel weight Max težina na polijetanju / Max take-off weight Max težina na slijetanju / Max landing weight
28.08 m
35.53 m
8.50 m
3.30 m
93.5 m2
92 ft 1.4in
116 ft 6.8 in
27 ft 10.5 in
10 ft 9.92 in
1006.5 sq ft
320 kts CAS
0,77 M
10.668 m
35000 ft
35835 kg
43090 kg
38780 kg
79000 lb
95000 lb
85500 lb
39 ft 8 in
(12.08 m)
Tivat
+ 382 32 670 500
+ 382 32 670 501 fax
+ 382 67 670 500 (GSM)
Beograd
+ 381 11 228 6241
+ 381 11 209 400 (lokal 7302)
Ljubljana
Letališče Brnik, 4210 Brnik
Passenger Service
+ 386 4 2594 252
+ 386 4 2594 245
Moskva / Moscow
Montenegro Airlines
Aerodrom Domodedovo, kancelarija 3.57
Tel: + 74 95 28 715 25
Fax: + 74 95 28 715 26
e-mail: [email protected]
EMBRAER 195
Spoljne dimenzije / External Dimensions
Razmah krila / Wingspan
Ukupna dužina / Length Overall
Ukupna visina / Height Overall
Razmah horizontalnog stabilizatora / Horizontal Stabilizer Span
Širina trupa / Fuselage Width
Visina trupa / Fuselage Height
94ft 3in
126ft 10in
34ft 7in
39ft 8in
9ft 11in
11ft 0in
28.72m
38.65m
10.55m
12.08m
3.01m
3.35m
Unutrašnje dimenzije / Internal Dimensions
Dužina putničke kabine / Cabin Length
Širina putničke kabine / Cabin Width
Visina putničke kabine / Cabin Height
Širina prolaza između sjedišta / Aisle Width
Širina sjedišta / Seat Width
92ft 5in
9ft 0in
6ft 7in
19.75in
18.25in
28.17m
2.74m
2.00m
0.50m
0.46m
94 ft 3 in
(28.72 m)
Niš
Montenegro Airlines Niš
ul. Vazduhoplovaca 24
18000 Niš
+381 18 4 583 336
39 ft 8 in
(12.08 m)
167
Destinacije
ljeto 2013.
Destinations
Destinacije
summer 2013
NAUTIČKE MILJE KM
NAUTIC MILES
Trajanje leta (min)
ljeto 2013.
Flight time
PODGORICA
BEOGRAD/BELGRADE169
313
38
BEČ/VIENNA 43179865
FRANKFURT
7861456115
LJUBLJANA
40174360
RIM/ROME
35365460
CIRIH/ZURICH 6601222105
PARIZ/PARIS
9541764140
LONDON
9601776155
NIŠ
200365,2 35
Kopenhagen
900
1625 Destinations
summer 2013
CHARTER FLIGHTS
NAUTIČKE MILJE
KM
Flight time
NAUTIC MILES
Trajanje leta (min)
PODGORICA
BARI
21239236
NAPOLI
33762454
Brindizi (Brindisi)213
393
40
Istanbul (Istanbul)437
809
80
PETROGRAD/ST. PETERSBURG
1123
2078
180
ANKONA
330610 85
PALERMO
451834 90
Katanija
497 919110
160
TIVAT
BEOGRAD/BELGRADE190
352
MOSKVA/MOSCOW1058
1959
40
190
Dragi putnici,
Dear passengers,
Molimo poštovane putnike da kontaktiraju Montenegro Airlines
Booking službu (++ 382 20 19804), naša predstavništva ili ovlašćene
putničke agencije radi detaljnih informacija o letovima. Please contact Montenegro Airlines central booking service on tel. +382 20 9804, our Branch Offices or authorised
travel agents for flight details.
S poštovanjem, Montenegro Airlines Komercijalni sektor
Best regards,
Montenegro Airlines Commercial Department
www.montenegroairlines.com
168
Na osnovu interline ugovora sa brojnim avio-kompanijama u svijetu,
Based on interline agreements with numerous airlines in the world, you can
kod nas možete kupiti kartu za neku od sledećih destinacija:
buy tickets to some of the following destinations in Montenegro Airlines offices:
iz/from Frankfurt:
Atlanta / Detroit / Chicago / Los Angeles / Miami / New York / Houston / Washinton / Dallas / Singapore / Manila
Kuala Lumpur / Sydney / Toronto / Montreal / Tokyo / Osaka / Rio de Janeiro / Buenos Aires / Caracas / Mexico City
iz/from Rome:
Boston / Miami / Chicago / New York / Washington / Toronto / Beijing
iz/from Wienna:
Toronto / Montreal / Delhi / Beijing / Bangkok / Sydney / Melbourne
169