Penang - Ransel Kecil

1 0 T H I N G S TO D O I N
Penang
IN A NUTSHELL
Penang is a menagerie of rich
cultural and historical legacies
all blended in a compact island
roughly one-half the size of
Singapore. The food is a major
scene and is a vein in everyday
life.
INTRODUCTION
When we think history, it’s not just
physical vestiges that are all in the dust.
They’re alive and breathing well — today.
!
When you think you’re done with the
history (though we bet you won’t), a lush
greenery of hills and meander roads
await you at the larger part of the island.
!
To blend everything in, the food scene in
Penang is like the blood that runs
between the rich history and culture.
!
Penang is an easy weekend gateway. It’s
compact, relatively modern but still
keeps its old-age charm. Prepare a good
sandal.
HERE ARE THE TEN THINGS YOU DO HERE
1. Early morning walk in
Lebuh Chulia
!
2. Evening in Little India
!
3. Savour Assam Laksa in
Weld Quay
!
4. Live life at a leisurely pace
!
5. Catch a ride to Balik Pulau
HERE ARE THE TEN THINGS YOU DO HERE
6. Eat in the breeze at
Fort Cornwallis
!
7. Cross to Butterworth
!
8. Ride up to Bukit Bendera
!
9. Eat your heart out at a
kopitiam
!
10. Walk through the history
ORIENTATION
To Butterworth
Bukit Bendera
Balik Pulau
Georgetown
Sg. Nibong Bus Terminal
PENA
NG BR
Penang International Airport
IDGE
GEORGETOWN
FORT CORNWALLIS
Leb
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LITTLE INDIA
an
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Pe
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tai
an
P
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Ch
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Le
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Le
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Le
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Kin
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LEBUH CHULIA
ia
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ASSAM LAKSA
KOMTAR
ld Q
We
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FERRY TO BUTTERWORTH
GETTING HERE
Four main points to arrive:
!
BY AIR
Penang International Airport (IATA: PEN)
!
BY LAND (BUS)
Komtar Bus Terminal (City centre)
Sungai Nibong Bus Terminal
(Closest to Penang bridge)
!
BY LAND (TRAIN)
Butterworth Train Station
(Cross with ferry)
!
!
GETTING AROUND
Four main modes to go around:
!
RapidPenang Bus Services
(Recommended, cheapest)
!
Rent a car
(Various choices)
!
Rent a bike/motorbike
(Various choices)
!
Taxi/cab
(Some don’t use meter so you need
to negotiate)
!
!
1.
!
Early
morning
walk in
Lebuh
Chulia
LEBUH CHULIA
Leb
u
Esplanade Park
rqu
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Leb
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Jl.
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Le asji
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Ke
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ia
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1. EARLY MORNING WALK IN LEBUH CHULIA
Lebuh Chulia is in the center of
Georgetown, the capital of Penang state.
It is literally also the heart of a preserved
old town. This is the ideal place to start
and base your journey in Penang.
Numerous budget accommodations line
in front of this street and behind all those
“lorongs” or lanes that connect to the
main street.
!
Some notable sights along this street is
endless array of Straits-style Chinese
shophouses, Kapitan Keling mosque,
numerous eateries, and if you meander
along the lanes, you can find more
surprises like an old wet market
(Campbell Market), Little India (for its
1. EARLY MORNING WALK IN LEBUH CHULIA
food), Beach Rd. for chick cafes and
plenty others. Get your breakfast at a
local mamak stall. It’s the best.
!
Be sure to wander early morning at
around 7am so that there is hardly any
traffic going around and you can see
fresh produces from the street markets.
!
It gets really hot during the day and
traffic jams are common.
1. EARLY MORNING WALK IN LEBUH CHULIA
Where:
Lebuh Chulia, it’s easily noticeable
because it’s the main street in old town.
!
When:
Early morning, 6 to 7 am
!
How:
Walk
2.
!
Evening in
Little India
LITTLE INDIA
Leb
u
Esplanade Park
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Leb
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i
ar
Jl.
M
Le asji
bu
d
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Le
bu
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n
Ke
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lin
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Lo
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Ch
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ia
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We
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ni
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2. EVENING IN LITTLE INDIA
Just a shy away from Lebuh Chulia is the
entrance to a colorful world of Little
India. Now, like everywhere, you’d expect
some glaring audio from music shops,
different kind of smells from all the
different kinds of Indian snacks and
cuisines from the endless choices of
eateries, and not to say the last, a feast
for the eyes for all the displays of vibrant
shop signages. It’s everything for the
senses.
!
Some delicacies are must-haves in Little
India: thosai, mutton rice and puthu.
Thosai is a thin crepe made of flour,
roasted and usually served in a single
rolled leaf that would roll your eyes for
2. EVENING IN LITTLE INDIA
its sheer size. Your choice of fillings, from
a simple plain thosai to a delish masala
and onion-sprinkled mashed potato—
add some chutneys of your choice too—
it’s like an all-day energy-booster you
can always rely on.
!
Mutton rice is like what it says: it’s rice
over mutton (or vice versa, if you prefer).
Topped up with curry sauce, make sure
you eat with your bare hands. Sounds
rude, but this is how you do it. It is eaten
on top of banana leaf. Wash things down
with cardamom-sprinkled teh tarik. Then,
puthu is a great dessert or afternoon
time snack that you can buy off a street
vendor.
2. EVENING IN LITTLE INDIA
Where:
Little India, enter through Lebuh King or
Lebuh Penang
!
When:
Evening, starting from 3 or 4pm
!
How:
Walk
!
3.
!
Savour
Assam Laksa
in
Weld Quay
WELD QUAY
Leb
u
Esplanade Park
rqu
h
Leb
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i
ar
Jl.
M
Le asji
bu
d
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Le
bu
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Ke
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lin
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Lo
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Ch
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ia
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Ac
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ld Q
We
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ni
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tai
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3. SAVOUR ASSAM LAKSA IN WELD QUAY
Assam laksa is a fine delicacy unique to
Penang, and the northern part of
Malaysian peninsula in general. It’s a
soupy, noodle-y dish tossed in an
aromatic and fresh broth, topped up with
fish shreds, torch ginger slices, shallots,
chillis, tamarind and other fine-tuned
tropical ingredients made especially for
your senses. Influences of Chinese, Thai
and Malay cuisines abound in this dish.
!
There are, of course, several versions
throughout the island, but being close to
the heart of Georgetown, this particular
stall wins the day.
3. SAVOUR ASSAM LAKSA IN WELD QUAY
Where:
Lebuh Ghat Aceh off Weld Quay
!
When:
Noon for lunch, or afternoon for relaxed
walk
!
How:
Cycle, motorcycle or walk
!
4.
!
Live life
at a
leisurely
pace
LEBUH CHULIA, LEBUH PANTAI, WELD QUAY
Leb
u
Esplanade Park
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Leb
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i
ar
Jl.
M
Le asji
bu
d
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Le
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Ke
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lin
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Ch
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ia
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Ac
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We
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ni
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4. LIVE LIFE AT A LEISURELY PACE
Head up to the nearest modern coffee
shop (or a kopitiam for that matter). Or
just wait by the side of the road until a
make-shift food court appears by the
side of it.
!
If you choose, just walk around your local
neighborhood and find surprises: food
festival, street arts, old man on a bike.
!
Life life at your own leisure, and it’s
possible in Georgetown. Walk around
and discover something new.
4. LIVE LIFE AT A LEISURELY PACE
Where:
Around Lebuh Chulia, Weld Quay and
Beach Rd (Lebuh Pantai).
!
When:
Anytime of day
!
How:
Cycle, motorcycle or walk
!
5.
!
Catch a ride
to
Balik Pulau
THE WHOLE PENANG ISLAND
To Butterworth
Bukit Bendera
Balik Pulau
Georgetown
Sg. Nibong Bus Terminal
PENA
NG BR
Penang International Airport
IDGE
5. CATCH A RIDE TO BALIK PULAU
“Balik Pulau” literally means “the back of
the island”. The western part of the
Penang island is pretty much a lush
green paradise. Georgetown and most of
the developments are in the eastern part
of the island. Rent a car or take a bus,
pick a map and then stop by to eat
seafood or kampong dishes and enjoy
the lush greeneries through meandering
roads.
!
Remember to be back by the evening!
5. CATCH A RIDE TO BALIK PULAU
Where:
Western part of the island
!
When:
Early morning to evening (all-day)
!
How:
Bus or rent a car
!
6.
!
Eat in the
breeze at
Fort
Cornwallis
FORT CORNWALLIS
Leb
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Esplanade Park
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Leb
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Jl.
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Le asji
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6. EAT IN THE BREEZE AT FORT CORNWALLIS
There’s a couple of eateries near Fort
Cornwallis, you can pick any place you’d
like, although we recommend the one
closest to the fort and away from the
shore. This food court probably has no
name, but there’s a special dish called
“mee sotong”, which is basically a squid
friend noodle (the super-nicest version).
!
Quench your thirst with a coconut float,
which is a coconut water drink with a
vanilla ice cream on top of it.
!
Make your way to Fort Cornwallis if you
want, then to the shore where you can sit
for as long as you wish.
6. EAT IN THE BREEZE AT FORT CORNWALLIS
Where:
Northeastern-most part of the island.
Get to Lebuh Light and cross the street
to the old fort.
!
When:
Starting from 10am
!
How:
Bus, cycle or walk
!
7.
!
Cross to
Butterworth
THE PIER
Leb
u
Esplanade Park
rqu
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Leb
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Jl.
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Le asji
bu
d
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Le
bu
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Ke
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lin
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Ch
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Ac
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We
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ni
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tai
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7. CROSS TO BUTTERWORTH
There’s a very-frequent ferry service
between Georgetown and Butterworth in
the mainland. This service is free
Butterworth-bound, and less than a
ringgit the other way around.
Butterworth is nothing much to see, but
you can see the Penang bridge (longest
in south east Asia) from the ferry ride.
First ferry departs Butterworth at
05:20am, the last being at 00:40am.
First ferry departs from Georgetown at
05:40am, the last being at 01:00am.
!
If you want to catch the peninsula train
heading to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur or
Bangkok, this is the transportation mode
you have to use first.
7. CROSS TO BUTTERWORTH
Where:
Northeastern part of Georgetown, just
ask where ferry terminal is.
!
When:
Ideally 8am when it’s not too hot and
you can see the bridge.
!
How:
Bus to ferry terminal
!
8.
!
Ride up to
Bukit
Bendera
BUKIT BENDERA
Georgetown
Bukit Bendera
Start here at Komtar
8. RIDE UP TO BUKIT BENDERA
Bukit Bendera (“the hill of the flag”) is
situated at 833 m above sea level and it’s
a strategic point to view Georgetown and
the northeast portion of Penang island.
You will enjoy the ride up and down, in a
modern rail-based transport that takes
around 10 minutes each way. Bring your
umbrella in case it rains or shines too
hard. It can also get very windy up there.
!
To get here, you need to catch bus 204
from Komtar or from Weld Quay. The 6
km journey would approximately take
15-20 minutes depending on traffic.
!
The fee to go up is RM30 for foreigners,
return trip.
8. RIDE UP TO BUKIT BENDERA
Where:
Air Itam, central part of the island, west
from Georgetown
!
When:
7am — finish
!
How:
Bus no. 204 from Komtar/Weld Quay
!
9.
!
Eat your
heart out at
a kopitiam
9. EAT YOUR HEART OUT AT A KOPITIAM
You can find kopitiams in almost every
modern part of the world, but nothing
beats the charm of old-age, original
version. Penang is one of the forefronts
in this Chinese peranakan coffee culture.
As in any kopitiams, try kopi-o or kopi,
both -c or -peng. No idea what those
are? Well, you have to learn those terms
first! Dishes vary from just toasts and
half-boiled eggs to something like
wonton noodles.
!
Just walk around Georgetown,
particularly in Lebuh Chulia and find the
flocks — there’s a good chance you’ll
bump into a (good) stall.
9. EAT YOUR HEART OUT AT A KOPITIAM
Where:
Almost any part of Georgetown and
Penang island
!
When:
All day, really
!
How:
Walk, cycle, motorcycle, rent a car, bus
!
10.
!
Walk
through
the history
SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS
CHONG FAT TZE MANSION
FORT CORNWALLIS
CLOCK TOWER
Leb
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PERANAKAN MUSEUM
Ch
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g
an
Pe
n
ai
nt
a
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b
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Le
b
Le
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Kin
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MASJID KAPITAN KELING
CAMPBELL MARKET
u
b
Le
lia
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ld Q
We
10. WALK THROUGH THE HISTORY
With old colonial-style buildings mixed
with Chinese Straits-style shophouses
lined up along the historic Georgetown,
you can’t miss the history. Some buildings
are converted into museums that you
might want to visit. Peranakan Museum
and Cheong Fat Tze Mansion are both
recommended, although if you don’t, a
sheer walk covering Georgetown is enough
to feel the historical value, especially in
Lebuh Pantai (Beach Rd.)
!
A (rather) complete list in the next page.
10. WALK THROUGH THE HISTORY
Historical highlights:
!
• Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, Lebuh Leith
• China Town
• Clock Tower, Pesiaran King Edward
• Esplanade
• Fort Cornwallis
• Nagore Shrine
• Penang Islamci Museum
• Penang Museum of Art Gallery
• Pinang Peranakan Mansion
• Residence of Ku Din Ku Meh
• State Art GAllery
• Sun Yat Sen’s Penang Base
• Dr. Sun Yat Sen Museum
• War Museum
10. WALK THROUGH THE HISTORY
Where:
Mostly in Georgetown
!
When:
All day
!
How:
Walk, cycle, motorcycle, rent a car, bus
!
Photo Gallery
Street hawker prepares his dinner for
everybody in Lebuh Chulia.
Georgetown heritage trail puts decent
signages that help you get around
The deteriorating city hall in Esplanade
doesn’t make it less beautiful.
Old couple enjoying the afternoon breeze
at Esplanade.
As an art scene, Georgetown streets can
sometimes be quirky.
Old and new: Modern coffee shops and old
kopitiams live side-by-side in harmony.
When days get hot (and they do), find one
of these drink hawker stalls.
Malay-English (Manglish) is a cute
everyday conversation-starter.
A man doing watercolor painting of Lebuh
Chulia in the afternoon.
Scouring the morning markets around
Campbell Old Market.
Architectural details abound if you really
look into them.
Don’t be fooled by the mediocre-looking
building. It can have great food!
Try this cardamom-sprinkled teh tarik at
Veloo Villas, Little India.
Looking at the Penang Bridge from the
Bukit Bendera.
Inside the Peranakan mansion that is
now a museum.
Locals walk on the street.
At one side from Lebuh Chulia.
Wonton noodle.
Life is relaxed at early mornings.
Looking at the bay to Tanjong Bungah from
Eastern & Oriental Hotel.
Old Campbell Market.
A bowl of assam laksa. It may look ugly,
but sure is worth a try.
Penang High Court building.
Picture frames at Old Penang Hostel.
Thank you for using this guide.
!
We picked top ten activity you could do
at leisurely pace that would give you a
great glimpse of what the destination is
about. One thing is for sure: we don’t
want to be an encyclopedia.
!
We know you’d think this guide would
have more to offer, but we believe in
curating our best experiences, so they
can be uniquely yours, too.
!
Email us at [email protected] for
suggestions and critics. Visit us at
ranselkecil.com/guides for more guides!
!
Ransel Kecil means “little backpack”,
which originated as a travel blog back in
the 2010, serving Indonesian readers.
Our content comes from our readers,
sometimes from our own editors. We
share journeys, photo essays, tips,
accommodations, food and many others
—in the hope of spreading travel bug
among Indonesian young generation.
!
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