MEMBERS` INFORMATION BOOKLET

Transcription

The
Alaskan Malamute Club
Victoria Inc.
Incorporations Registeration No. A0016353X
MEMBERS' INFORMATION
BOOKLET
Contents
1. Club Information
Committee Members & Contact Details
Code of Ethics
Introduction
AMCV Club Rules & By-Laws
Statement of Purposes
Puppy Register Guidelines
Stud Dog Register Guidelines
Breeders’ Directory Guidelines
Register of Achievement
1.2
1.2
1.3
1.4
1.15
1.16
1.16
1.16
1.17
2. About the Alaskan Malamute
Alaskan Malamute Breed Standard
Owning a Malamute
FAQs
Malamute 101
Basic Puppy Training
Survival Characteristics
Alaskan Malamutes – Breed History
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.8
3. Malamute Health & Nutrition
Medical & Health Problems
Hip Dysplasia Control Program
Nutrition for Dogs
Obesity: A common problem in Malamutes
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.5
4. Breeding Information
What makes a breeder professional?
Facts about breeding
Breeding Considerations
AMCV Puppy Register
Selecting a puppy
The Decision to Breed
4.1
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.3
4.4
5. Activities
Obedience and the Malamute
Backpacking with your Malamute
Weight Pulling
Sledding and the Malamute
Dog Showing in Australia
Working Dog Title Program
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.8
6. Forms
Health Report Form
Hip Dysplasia Report Form
Thyroid Register Form
Puppy Register Application form
6.1
6.2
6.4
6.5
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.amcv.org.au
General Enquiries: Phone 9714 8540
Updated: 2 October 2015
Section 1: Club Information
Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria Inc.
The Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.)
Registered No. A0016353X
Patron: Mrs Olive Singer
Honorary Life Members:
Mrs Dulcie Sullivan
Mrs Sandy Koch
Mr Ian Luke
Committee Members & Office Bearers 2014/2015
Email Address: [email protected]
Health Officer
Shelley Turner
Postal Address: PO Box 41, Hurstbridge VIC 3099
(03) 5978 6001
Puppy Registrar / Referral Officer
Vacant
President
Sandy Koch
(03) 9714 8540
Vice Presidents
Activities: Colin McPhan
Breed Welfare: Shelley Turner
Publicity/Education Officer
Dayna Manser
0433 061 655
0438 347 513
(03) 5978 6001
Fundraising Officer
Matthew Hutton
0438 550 531
Backpacking Co-ordinator
Stuart Vanderpol
0413 118 305
Secretary & Public Officer
Sharen McPhan
Treasurer
Ralph Koch
Show Secretary
Dale Green
Newsletter Editor
E’vette Levett
Code of Ethics
0410 192 210
Obedience Co-ordinator
Vacant
(03) 9714 8540
0418 350 641
Sledding Co-ordinator
Ian Luke
0417 103 615
0427 301 043
Weight-Pull Co-ordinator
Melanie Gray
0404 104 619
of responsible dog ownership including keeping welfare, breeding, selling and
disposing of dogs by Members of the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria, Inc.
Adopted 28/1/1999
SECTION 1 - COMPLIANCE WITH CODE OF ETHICS
Each member, upon signing an application for membership or renewal of membership of the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria Inc. (AMCV), and being duly
elected to general membership of the AMCV, shall, in addition to agreeing to be bound by the Rules and Regulations of the AMCV, be also bound by the
AMCV's Code of Ethics relating to responsible dog ownership, including the keeping, welfare, breeding selling and disposing of dogs by members to the effect
of the terms and conditions set out under Section 2 hereof.
SECTION 2 - CODE OF ETHICS AND UNDERTAKING
In consideration of the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria, Inc. electing me to its general membership and approval of that renewal from time to time, I pledge
to the AMCV that:
1.
I shall ensure that at all times all dogs under my control are properly
fences, sufficient room and proper shelter, etc.) to perform their
housed, fed, watered, exercised and receive proper Veterinary
obligations.
attention, if and when required.
8.
I shall provide to all purchasers of dogs or placed by me, written
2.
I shall not allow any dogs under my care to roam at large and when
details of all dietary and immunization requirements and/or an
away from home ensure they are kept fully leashed, or under
appropriate publication relating to such requirements and
effective control, at all times.
responsible dog ownership.
3.
I shall breed only for the purpose of improving the standard of the
9.
I shall not sell any dog to commercial dog wholesalers, retail pet
breed, and not for the pet market or any other commercial purpose.
dealers, or directly or indirectly to allow a dog to be given as a prize
4.
That excepting in extenuating circumstances, I shall not breed from
or donation in a contest of any kind.
any bitch kept by me causing it to be mated before it is eighteen
10. I shall not knowingly misrepresent the characteristics of the breed,
months of age. Thereafter I shall not breed from any bitch kept by
nor falsely advertise, or mislead any person regarding the
me causing it to whelp more than twice in 18 months. I will not
performance of any dog.
breed any bitch kept by me causing it to whelp more than six times
11. I shall ensure when selling or transferring a dog to another person
without prior veterinary certification of fitness for further breeding.
that documents as required by V. C. A. Inc. Rules or Regulations, will
5.
I shall not permit any of my pure bred dogs to be mated to a dog of a
be provided to the purchaser or transferee.
different breed, to a cross-bred dog, or to an unregistered dog of the
12. I shall act in a responsible manner to rehouse those animals that are
same breed.
the result of my breeding.
6.
I shall not sell or otherwise transfer from my care any puppy under
13. I shall not offer for use at stud any dog that has not been certified
eight weeks of age, thus allowing for vaccination to be given at six
clear of Hip Dysplasia in accordance with the AMCV Hip Dysplasia
weeks of age, and the necessary ten to fourteen days for the vaccine
Control Program.
to take effect.
14. I shall not sell any puppy whose sire and dam have not been certified
7.
I shall ensure that all persons acquiring dogs from me clearly
clear of Hip Dysplasia in accordance with the AMCV Hip Dysplasia
understand their responsibility for the care and welfare of the
Control Program.
animal, and that they have the time and facilities (i.e. adequate
15. AMCV members will exhibit good sportsmanship at all times.
It is recommended that any puppy sold with the designation pet/companion be sold on a spay/neuter contract with the Limited Registration now offered by
the ANKC. It is recommended that adults sold as companions be sold on a spay/neuter contract.
SECTION 3 Any member failing to observe any provisions of the Code of Ethics may be dealt with under the Rules of the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria,
Inc.
Page 1.2
The Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.)
Incorporations Registered no. A0016353X
General Enquiries: (03) 9714 8540
Email: [email protected]
Postal Address: PO Box 41 Hurstbridge VIC 3099
Welcome to the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.). We hope you will find the Club both interesting and
helpful. If there is any thing you need assistance with, please feel free to contact the Secretary or any of the
Committee listed on the previous page.
If you have inquiries about puppies for sale or information about registering a litter (conditions apply), please
contact the Puppy Registrar. If you have a Malamute in need of a new home or wish to adopt a dog, contact the
Malamute Referral Service. If you require information regarding health and hereditary disease testing or
medical issues affecting the Alaskan Malamute, please contact the Malamute Health Officer. If you do not
know who to contact or for general enquires, contact the Secretary, Vice Presidents or President.
We rely on input from members, both at the meetings and in the form of contributions to our Newsletter, The
Malamute Mail, which we produce quarterly. Because we have a lot of members who live far from Melbourne
and interstate, the newsletter is our most important way of keeping in touch with Members. We especially
welcome articles, stories or letters from the Members who are too far away to attend Club functions.
We hold several General meetings and two awards nights a year to which members are welcome to come along.
Please introduce yourself to a member of the Committee on your arrival and sign the attendance register.
Watch your “Malamute Mail” or check the AMCV website or Facebook group for details of the next meeting
and the topics for discussion.
The Alaskan Malamute Club offers a range of activities that the Malamute loves to do, including obedience,
showing, sledding, weight-pulling and backpacking. To introduce newcomers to these activities the club
conducts a number of “Introduction to Activities” & training days throughout the year. These days are an ideal
way for new or prospective Malamute owners to find out more about the breed, and learn about the various
activities in a friendly, non-competitive environment. Fun days and bushwalks are held several times
throughout the year somewhere around Melbourne and are for fun, socialisation and to get members and their
Mals together doing something enjoyable to both.
The club conducts several sled dog racing, hiking and weight-pulling events over the cooler months to which
everyone is invited, including non-members and other breeds of dog, whether it to participate or just come and
watch. Details are published in the club newsletter, “The Malamute Mail”, can be downloaded from the
website or can be obtained by contacting the Secretary, Activities Vice-President or co-ordinator for that
activity.
In this new member’s pack we have tried to include a bit of information on everything you need to know about
the club and your Malamute. You will have already received your first copy of “The Malamute Mail” or it will
be enclosed with this information. Please let us know if there is something that you would like to know about
that is not included in this pack.
We look forward to seeing you at some of our many Club functions and hope that you can find the time to
participate with your Malamute.
Yours sincerely,
Sharen McPhan,
Secretary
Page 1.3
ALASKAN MALAMUTE CLUB, VICTORIA (Inc.)
CLUB RULES
Incorporations Registration No. A0016353X
(Adopted 19 June, 1997 – Amended 13 October 2011 & 9 October 2014)
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART 1
PRELIMINARY ................................................................................................................... 2
1.
Name 2
2.
Purposes ............................................................................................................................................ 2
3.
Interpretation .................................................................................................................................... 2
PART 2
POWERS OF ASSOCIATION ................................................................................................ 3
4.
Powers of Association ........................................................................................................................ 3
5.
Not for profit organisation ................................................................................................................. 3
PART 3
MEMBERS, DISCIPLINARY PROCEDURES AND GRIEVANCES ............................................... 3
6.
Application for membership .............................................................................................................. 4
7.
Annual subscription and joining fee ................................................................................................... 4
8.
Register of Members ......................................................................................................................... 4
9.
Classification of Members ................................................................................................................. 4
10. Privileges of Membership .................................................................................................................. 4
11. Resignation and Expulsion of Member .............................................................................................. 4
12. Disciplinary Action ............................................................................................................................. 5
13. Grievance Procedure ......................................................................................................................... 5
PART 4
GENERAL MEETINGS OF THE ASSOCIATION ....................................................................... 6
14. Annual General Meeting .................................................................................................................... 6
15. Notice of Annual General Meeting .................................................................................................... 6
16. Special General Meetings .................................................................................................................. 6
17. Notice of Special General Meetings ................................................................................................... 6
18. Adjournment of Meeting ................................................................................................................... 7
19. Proceedings at all Meetings of Members .......................................................................................... 7
20. Voting at Meetings............................................................................................................................. 7
PART 5
COMMITTEE ..................................................................................................................... 8
21. Committee of Management .............................................................................................................. 8
22. Officers Of The Club ........................................................................................................................... 8
23. General Duties ................................................................................................................................... 8
24. President and Vice-President ............................................................................................................. 8
25. Secretary ............................................................................................................................................ 8
26. Treasurer ........................................................................................................................................... 9
27. Composition of Committee ................................................................................................................ 9
28. Election of Committee of Management............................................................................................. 9
29. Vacation of Office ............................................................................................................................ 10
30. Nomination and Voting .................................................................................................................... 10
31. Meeting of the Committee .............................................................................................................. 10
32. Removal of Member of Committee or public officer ....................................................................... 11
PART 6
FINANCIAL MATTERS ...................................................................................................... 11
33. Financial Year ................................................................................................................................... 11
34. Banking Account .............................................................................................................................. 11
35 Source of funds ................................................................................................................................ 11
36. Financial records .............................................................................................................................. 11
37. Financial statements ........................................................................................................................ 11
38. Audit and Auditor ............................................................................................................................ 11
PART 7
GENERAL MATTERS......................................................................................................... 11
39. Notices ............................................................................................................................................. 11
40. Winding Up or Cancellation ............................................................................................................. 12
41. Seal 12
42. Custody of Records .......................................................................................................................... 12
43. Funds 12
44. Property ........................................................................................................................................... 12
45. Alterations of Rules and Statement of Purpose ............................................................................... 12
46. By-Laws ............................................................................................................................................ 12
47. Affiliation with the VCA Inc. ............................................................................................................. 12
BY-LAWS ....................................................................................................................................... 13
By-Law No. 1 .............................................................................................................................................. 13
By-Law No. 2 .............................................................................................................................................. 13
By-Law No. 3 .............................................................................................................................................. 13
Note:
The persons who from time to time are members of the Association are an incorporated association by the name given in rule 1 of these
Rules. Under section 46 of the Associations Incorporation Reform Act 2012, these Rules are taken to constitute the terms of a contract
between the Association and its members.
Page 1.4
PART 1 PRELIMINARY
1.
NAME
The name of the incorporated association is THE ALASKAN MALAMUTE CLUB, VICTORIA, Inc.
(in these Rules called "the Club" or “the Association”)
2.
3.
Note: Under section 23 of the Act, the name of the association and its registration number must appear on all its business documents.
PURPOSES
The purposes of the association are
(a)
to affiliate with the Victorian Canine Association (VCA) Inc.;
(b)
to promote and encourage the breeding of pure bred dogs and in particular the Alaskan Malamute.
(c)
to promote and raise the standards and exhibition of registered pure bred dogs, particularly the Alaskan Malamute.
(d)
to promote the holding of Exhibitions under the VCA Inc. Rules and Regulations and to conduct Exhibitions and/or to promote
Obedience training and to conduct Obedience training and to conduct Obedience Trials, Tracking Tests, and Field Trials;
(e)
to foster, promote and protect the interest of exhibitors of dogs at exhibitions and particularly the exhibitors of Alaskan Malamutes
(f)
to collect, verify and publish information relating to dogs and the breeding and exhibition of dogs;
(g)
to educate and encourage members, breeders and judges to abide by the requirements and standards approved by the VCA Inc. for
the conduct of Exhibitions and Shows;
(h)
to promote good fellowship and sportsmanship amongst members and those participating in or attending at Exhibitions and Shows;
(i)
to inform members of and make known to them the Laws and Regulations of the State relating to the ownership and care of dogs,
and the responsibility of owners for the conduct and actions of their dogs;
(j)
to hold functions and lectures relating to dogs and to the purposes of the Club generally;
(k)
to provide awards and donate prizes for competition at Exhibitions and for the competition by breeders and exhibitors of dogs;
(l)
to foster relations with other Clubs and bodies having similar aims;
(m)
to promote and assist worthy causes, as agreed at a General Meeting of the members of the Club;
(n)
to the invest the funds of the Club not immediately required in such manner as the members or the Committee in lieu thereof shall
determine;
(o)
to purchase, hire, lease, etc. and do such things as are conductive or incidental to promoting and achieving the purposes of the Club;
(p)
to carry on such other activities or promote or encourage interest in the breeding, upkeep and training of and the general well-being
and improvement of Alaskan Malamutes and to do all such other things as may be necessary or conductive to carrying out the
objects of the Club.
INTERPRETATION
(1)
In these Rules, unless the contrary intention appears:
"Absolute majority", of the Committee, means a majority of the committee members currently holding office and entitled to vote at
the time (as distinct from a majority of committee members present at a committee meeting);
"Act", means the Associations Incorporation Reform Act 2012 and includes any regulations made under that Act.
"Application for Membership", includes application for re-admission to membership.
"Association", has the same meaning as is ascribed to that word by Section 3 of the Associations Incorporation Reform Act 2012
which, inter alia, includes a Club.
"Body", means where the context reasonably admits, a Club, Society, Association, Company or group of persons.
"By-Laws", means the By-Laws in force for the time being of the Club and shall form part of and be deemed to be incorporated in the
Rules of the Club.
“Chairperson”, of a general meeting or committee meeting, means the person chairing the meeting as required under rule 19(6);
"Rule", means a provision of the Rules and where the context so admits includes a paragraph or sub-paragraph thereof.
"Club", for the purpose of these Rules, has the same meaning as is ascribed to the word Association by Section 3 of the Associations
Incorporation Reform Act 2012.
"Committee", means the Committee of Management of the Club and includes Officers of the Club and ordinary members of the
Committee unless the Rules specifically provide otherwise.
“Committee Meeting”, means a meeting of the Committee held in accordance with these Rules;
“Committee Member”, means a member of the Committee elected or appointed under Rule 28;
“Disciplinary Appeal Meeting”, means a meeting of the members of the Association convened under rule 23(3);
“Disciplinary Meeting”, means a meeting of the Committee convened for the purposes of rule 22;
“Disciplinary Subcommittee”, means the subcommittee appointed under rule 20;
"Dual Member", means one of any two members of the one family resident at the same address or one of any two of the persons
who are partners in the conduct of a kennel having a kennel prefix in their joint names registered with the V.C.A Inc. who has
been admitted with the other of such persons as a dual member of the Club.
"Exhibition", includes a Canine Show, Canine Exhibition, Canine Parade, Gundog Trial and Test, Canine Competition, Display,
Obedience Trial and Tracking Trail, Non-Slip Retrieving Trail, Agility Trial, Sledding, Weight Pulling, Contest, Match or similar
event.
"Financial Member", means a member of the Club who shall not be in default in the payment of the annual subscription or any fees
or other monies payable in accordance with the Rules. Unfinancial shall have the opposite meaning.
"Financial year", means the financial year of the Club as defined.
“General Meeting”, means a general meeting of the members of the Association convened in accordance with Part 4 and includes an
annual general meeting, a special general meeting and a disciplinary appeal meeting;
"Honorary Member", means a person, who upon the recommendation of the Committee or upon a written nomination signed by
not less than five members is elected by a resolution passed in general meeting by a majority of not less than three-fourths
of the members voting in person thereat as an Honorary member for such period as may be so determined and who in the
opinion of such meeting has rendered outstanding services to the Canine Fancy or to the Club of for other good and
sufficient reason and who need not comply with the provisions of Rule 3(1) and shall in addition have the rights and
privileges of a financial member, but shall not be entitled to vote at general meetings or hold office, unless a majority of
members otherwise decides.
"Insolvent under administration", in relation to a member of the Committee of Management has the same meaning as that given to
those words by Section 5 of the Companies (Victoria) Code.
"Junior Member", means a member under the age of eighteen years.
Page 1.5
(2)
"Life member", means a member who has been admitted to the Club as a member for life, whether upon payment of a subscription
or without payment of a subscription as may be determined by the members from time to time.
"Member", means a person who has been admitted as an ordinary or dual or Life member of the Club and where the context
otherwise so admits, shall include a person admitted to any other category of membership and the word "Member", where
the context so admits, shall mean and include persons who have been admitted to any category of membership.
“Member entitled to vote”, means a member who under rule 30 is entitled to vote at a general meeting;
"Office", means the Office of the Club, and shall be a place as determined from time to time at which the records of the Club are to
be kept.
"Officers", for the purpose of these Rules, has the same meaning as is ascribed to the word “Office Bearers”.
"Office Bearers", means the President, the Vice-President, Treasurer, Secretary, and such other nominated positions as referred to in
Rule 22 and the By-Laws for the time being of the Club.
"Period of Membership", in relation to a member, denotes the twelve months terminating at midnight on the 30th day of June each
year for which such member is for the time being elected or admitted to membership of the Club or such portion of that
term during which the membership continues
"Person", where the context reasonably permits, includes an individual, a firm or partnership, a company or corporation, or any
other legal entity.
"Registered", means breeds and breed varieties of dogs for which a separate register is kept by Victorian Canine Association Inc.
"Regulations", means either the Associations Incorporation Reform Act 2012 or the Regulations of the VCA Inc. as specifically
referred to in either case in the Rules of the Club.
"Rules", means the Rules for the time being of the Club and includes its By-Laws.
"Secretary", means the Honorary Secretary or Secretary of the Club and, where the context reasonably permits, includes the
Assistant Secretary and any other person for the time being appointed by the Committee to exercise the functions of the
Secretary.
“Special Resolution”, means a resolution that requires not less than three-quarters of the members voting at a general meeting,
whether in person or by proxy, to vote in favour of the resolution;
“The Registrar”, means the Registrar of Incorporated Associations.
"VCA Inc.", means the Victorian Canine Association Inc.
"Writing", includes printing and roneo and any other like recognised means of communication or of reproducing words in visible
form.
Words or expressions contained in these Rules shall be interpreted in accordance with the Interpretation of Legislation Act 1984 and
the Act as in force from time to time, and in accordance with the Constitution, Rules and Regulations of the VCA Inc.
PART 2
POWERS OF ASSOCIATION
4.
POWERS OF ASSOCIATION
(1)
Subject to the Act, the Association has power to do all things incidental or conducive to achieve its purposes.
(2)
Without limiting subrule (1), the Association may:
(a)
acquire, hold and dispose of real or personal property;
(b)
open and operate accounts with financial institutions;
(c)
invest its money in any security in which trust monies may lawfully be invested;
(d)
raise and borrow money on any terms and in any manner as it thinks fit;
(e)
secure the repayment of money raised or borrowed, or the payment of a debt or liability;
(f)
appoint agents to transact business on its behalf;
(g)
enter into any other contract it considers necessary or desirable.
(3)
The Association may only exercise its powers and use its income and assets (including any surplus) for its purposes.
5.
NOT FOR PROFIT ORGANISATION
(1)
The Association must not distribute any surplus, income or assets directly or indirectly to its members.
(2)
Subrule (1) does not prevent the Association from paying a member:
(a)
reimbursement for expenses properly incurred by the member; or
(b)
for goods or services provided by the member:
if this is done in good faith on terms no more favourable than if the member was not a member.
Note: Section 33 of the Act provides that an incorporated association must not secure pecuniary profit for its members. Section 4 of
the Act sets out in more detail the circumstances under which an incorporated association is not taken to secure pecuniary
profit for its members.
PART 3
MEMBERS, DISCIPLINARY PROCEDURES AND GRIEVANCES
6.
APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP
(1)
Minimum number of members
The Association must have at least 5 members.
(2)
A natural person owning a pure bred dog or interested in any of the activities referred to in the Statement of Purposes of the Club
who is approved for membership as provided in these Rules is eligible to be a member of the Club on payment of the entrance fee
and annual subscription payable under these Rules.
(3)
A person who is not a member of the Club at the time of the incorporation of the Club (or who was such a member at that time but
has ceased to be a member) shall not be admitted to membership unless nominated as provided in Subrule (4) and the admission as
a member is approved by the Committee.
(4)
An application for membership shall be in such form as the Committee may from time to time prescribe and shall be signed by the
applicant and lodged with the Secretary of the Club accompanied by the fees prescribed in Rule 7.
(5)
The Secretary shall submit such application to the next meeting of the Committee for approval.
(6)
Upon an application being referred to the Committee, the Committee shall determine whether to approve or to reject the
application.
(7)
(a)
Upon an application being approved by the Committee, the Secretary shall enter the applicant’s name in the register of
members and upon the name being so entered, the applicant becomes a member of the Club.
(b)
If the Committee rejects the application, it must return any money accompanying the application to the applicant.
(c)
No reason need be given for the rejection of an application.
Page 1.6
(8)
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
A right, privilege, or obligation of a person by reason of membership of the Club is not capable of being transferred or transmitted to
another person.
(9)
A member may within thirty days after the end of the Club's financial year, make application to the Club for re-admission as a
member and upon payment of the annual subscription shall be deemed for all purposes to have been re-admitted as a member.
(10)
A member, upon election to any category of membership, shall strictly observe and act in conformity with and not otherwise than in
accordance with the Act and the Rules and By-Laws of the Club and the Constitution and Rules and Regulations of the VCA Inc.
ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION AND JOINING FEE
Subject to notice of motion first being given by Resolution of the Committee, the members in General Meeting at any time and from time to
time may fix the amount of the annual subscription payable by each category of membership and may in like manner determine that a
membership joining fee shall be paid and the amount thereof.
REGISTER OF MEMBERS
The Secretary shall keep and maintain a register of members in which shall be entered the full name, address and date of entry of the name
of each member and the register shall be available for inspection by members at General Meetings.
CLASSIFICATION OF MEMBERS
Membership of the Club may be in any of the following categories:
(a)
Member; (Ordinary)
(b)
Dual Member;
(c)
Life Member;
(d)
Honorary Member;
(e)
Junior Member;
(f)
Interstate Member
(g)
Any other class of Member.
PRIVILEGES OF MEMBERSHIP
(1)
Subject to the restrictions and limitation prescribed by or pursuant to the Act, Rules and By-Laws of the Club the privileges of a
member shall be:
(a)
upon application and payment of the prescribed fee, (if any), to the Secretary to receive a copy of the Rules and By-Laws of
the Club;
(b)
the right to attend and vote at all general meetings of the Club; subject to the conditions of Rule 30(2) and 30(3);
(c)
to submit as a candidate for any Office of the Club and/or Committee subject to the conditions of Rule 30(2)and 30(3);
(d)
to receive any publication issued by the Club, upon the payment of the prescribed fee, (if any);
(e)
to compete for prizes (including trophies), available for members of the Club when exhibiting or competing at any exhibition
conducted by the Club.
(2)
A junior member shall be entitled to take part in the proceedings of a general meeting but shall not be eligible to vote and shall not
be eligible to hold office as an Office Bearer or an ordinary member of the Committee, but shall be entitled to exercise all other
privileges of membership.
RESIGNATION AND EXPULSION OF MEMBER
(1)
A member shall cease to be a member of the Club (a)
upon the termination of the period of membership, (whether by effluxion of time or otherwise), unless re-admitted pursuant
to Rule 6(8) as a member of the Club for a further period of membership;
(b)
if the member resigns by notice in writing addressed to the Secretary pursuant to Subrule (3);
(c)
if the member dies;
(d)
if the annual subscription for the forthcoming financial year has not been paid in accordance with Rule 6(9);
(e)
if pursuant to the Rules the member is expelled from the Club;
(f)
if as a member of the VCA Inc. is disqualified or suspended by the VCA Inc. for any period for which suspension or
disqualification applies.
(2)
Should any person cease to be a member of the Club for any reason whatsoever the person shall not be entitled to the return of the
membership fee or any part thereof.
(3)
A member of the Club who has paid all moneys due and payable to the Club may resign from the Club by first giving notice in writing
to the Secretary of such resignation.
(4)
Upon the receipt of a notice given under Subrule (6) the Secretary shall make in the register of members an entry recording the date
on which the member by whom the notice was given ceased to be a member.
DISCIPLINARY ACTION
(1)
Subject to these Rules, the Committee may by resolution:(a)
expel a member from the Club;
(b)
suspend a member from membership of the Club for a specified period; or
(c)
fine a member in accordance with the Associations Incorporation Act.
if the Committee is of the opinion that the member (i)
has refused or neglected to comply with these rules; or
(ii) has been guilty of conduct unbecoming a member or prejudicial to the interest of the Club.
(2)
A Resolution of the Committee under Subrule (1);(a)
does not take effect unless the Committee at a meeting held not earlier than 14 and not later than 28 days after the service
on the member of a notice under Subrule (3) confirms the resolution in accordance with this Rule; and
(b)
where the member exercises a right of appeal to the Club under this Rule, does not take effect unless the Club confirms the
resolution in accordance with this Rule.
(3)
If the Committee passes a resolution under Subrule (1), the Secretary shall, as soon as practicable, cause to be served on the member
a notice in writing;(a)
setting out the resolution of the Committee and the grounds on which it is based;
(b)
stating that the member may address the Committee at a meeting to be held not earlier than 14 and not later than 28 days
after service of the notice;
(c)
stating the date, place and time of that meeting;
(d)
informing the member that they may do one or more of the following (i)
Attend that meeting;
Page 1.7
(ii)
13.
Give to the Committee before the date of that meeting a written statement seeking the revocation of the resolution;
and
(iii) Not later than 7 days before the date of the meeting, lodge with the Secretary a notice to the effect that they wish to
appeal to the Club in general meeting against the resolution.
(4)
At a meeting of the Committee held in accordance with Subrule (2), the Committee:(a)
shall give the member an opportunity to be heard;
(b)
shall give due consideration to any written statement submitted by the member; and
(c)
shall by resolution determine whether to confirm or to revoke the resolution.
(5)
Where the Secretary receives a notice under Subrule (3)(d)(iii) the Secretary shall notify the Committee and the Committee shall
convene a general meeting of the Club to be held within 21 days after the date on which the Secretary received the notice.
(6)
At a general meeting of the Club convened under Subrule (5):
(a)
no business other than the question of the appeal shall be transacted;
(b)
the Committee may place before the meeting details of the grounds for the resolution and the reasons for the passing of the
resolution;
(c)
the member shall be given an opportunity to be heard; and
(d)
the members present shall vote by secret ballot on the question whether the resolution should be confirmed or revoked.
(7)
If at the general meeting: (a)
three-fourths of the members vote in person in favour of the confirmation of the resolution, the resolution is confirmed; and
(b)
in any other case, the resolution is revoked.
GRIEVANCE PROCEDURE
(1)
Application
(a)
The grievance procedure set out in this Division applies to disputes under these Rules between—
(i)
a member and another member;
(ii) a member and the Committee;
(iii) a member and the Association.
(b)
A member must not initiate a grievance procedure in relation to a matter that is the subject of a disciplinary procedure until
the disciplinary procedure has been completed.
(2)
Parties must attempt to resolve the dispute.
(3)
The parties to a dispute must attempt to resolve the dispute between themselves within 14 days of the dispute coming to the
attention of each party.
(4)
Appointment of mediator
(a)
If the parties to a dispute are unable to resolve the dispute between themselves within the time required by rule 26, the
parties must within 10 days—
(i)
notify the Committee of the dispute; and
(ii) agree to or request the appointment of a mediator; and
(iii) attempt in good faith to settle the dispute by mediation.
(b)
The mediator must be—
(i)
a person chosen by agreement between the parties; or
(ii) in the absence of agreement—
(I)
if the dispute is between a member and another member—a person appointed by the Committee; or
(II) if the dispute is between a member and the Committee or the Association—a person appointed or employed by
the Dispute Settlement Centre of Victoria.
(c)
A mediator appointed by the Committee may be a member or former member of the Association but in any case must not
be a person who—
(i)
has a personal interest in the dispute; or
(ii) is biased in favour of or against any party.
(5)
Mediation process
(a)
The mediator to the dispute, in conducting the mediation, must—
(i)
give each party every opportunity to be heard; and
(ii) allow due consideration by all parties of any written statement submitted by any party; and
(iii) ensure that natural justice is accorded to the parties throughout the mediation process.
(b)
The mediator must not determine the dispute.
(6)
Failure to resolve dispute by mediation
If the mediation process does not resolve the dispute, the parties may seek to resolve the dispute in accordance with the Act or
otherwise at law.
PART 4
GENERAL MEETINGS OF THE ASSOCIATION
14. ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING
(1)
The Club shall in each calendar year convene an annual general meeting of its members.
(2)
The annual general meeting shall be held on such date and time, and at such venue, as the Committee determines.
(3)
The annual general meeting shall be specified as such in the notice convening it.
(4)
The ordinary business of the annual general meeting shall be:
(a)
to confirm the minutes of the last preceding annual general meeting and of any general meeting held since that meeting;
(b)
to appoint a Returning Officer, where necessary, and at least two scrutineers, pursuant to Rule 28(6);
(c)
to receive from the Committee reports upon the transactions and activities of the Club during the last preceding financial
year;
(d)
to elect Officers of the club and the ordinary members of the committee; and
(e)
receive and consider the statement submitted by the Club in accordance with the Act.
(f)
to appoint an auditor pursuant to Rule 38.
(5)
The annual general meeting may transact special business of which notice is given in accordance with these Rules.
(6)
The annual general meeting shall be in addition to any other general meetings that may be held in the same year.
Page 1.8
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
NOTICE OF ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING
(1)
The notice convening the annual general meeting shall be given to each member not less than thirty days before the date of the
meeting and shall be accompanied by a form of Nomination of Committee of Management, (see Rule 28(1)(a)). Such notice shall
specify the business to be conducted at the meeting in accordance with Rule 14(4) and (5).
(2)
The signature to the notice convening the annual general meeting may be written, stamped, impressed, typed or printed.
(3)
Notice of an annual general meeting and the form of Nomination of Committee of Management shall be deemed to have been given
to each member if they are published in, or enclosed with, the Club's newsletter or journal or such other publication as the Club may
circulate to its members provided that such publication is despatched to each member not less than thirty days prior to the date of
the annual general meeting or if they are served personally not less than twenty eight days prior to the date of that meeting or if
they are sent through the post not less than thirty days prior to the meeting addressed to each member at the address shown in the
Register of Members. A notice and form of Nomination of Committee of Management sent to one of a dual membership shall be
deemed for all purposes to have been given to each of such members.
(4)
A notice sent by post to a member shall be deemed to have been received at the time at which the notice would have been delivered
in the ordinary course of post.
(5)
The accidental omission to give notice to a member, or if a member shall fail to receive a notice sent in accordance with Subrule (3),
shall not invalidate an annual general meeting.
SPECIAL GENERAL MEETINGS
All general meetings other than the annual general meeting shall be called special general meetings.
(1)
The Committee may, whenever it thinks fit, convene a special general meeting of the Club and where, but for this Subrule, more than
15 months would lapse between annual general meetings shall convene a special general meeting before the expiration of that
period.
(2)
The Committee shall, on the requisition in writing of members representing not less than 5% of the total number of members,
convene a special general meeting to the Club.
(3)
The requisition for a special general meeting shall state the objects of the meeting and shall be signed by the members making the
requisition and be sent to the address of the Secretary and may consist of several documents in a like form, each signed by one or
more of the members making the requisition.
(4)
If the Committee does not cause a special general meeting to be held within one month after the date on which the requisition is
sent to the address of the Secretary, the members making the requisition, or any of them, may convene a special general meeting to
be held not later than 3 months after that date, and the Secretary shall for that purpose, if requested by such members, furnish to
them or otherwise make available a list of names and addresses of all members entitled to attend a special general meeting.
(5)
A special general meeting convened by members in pursuance of these Rules shall be convened in the same manner as nearly as
possible as that in which those meetings are convened by the Committee and all reasonable expenses incurred in convening the
meeting shall be refunded by the Club to the persons incurring the expenses.
NOTICE OF SPECIAL GENERAL MEETINGS
(1)
Every special general meeting convened by the Committee shall be convened by notice given by the Secretary to each member of the
Club specifying the date, time and venue of such meeting as prescribed in Subrule (3). Such notice shall specify the business to be
conducted at the meeting. The signature to any such notice may be written, stamped, impressed, typed or printed.
(2)
At least seven days prior notice shall be given in respect of each such meeting.
(3)
Notice of a special general meeting shall be deemed to have been given to each member if it is published in the Club's newsletter or
journal or such other publication, provided that such publication is made and despatched to the members not later than seven days
prior to the date of the meeting or if it is served upon the member personally or if it is sent through the post addressed to such
member at the address shown in the Register of Members. A notice sent to one of a dual membership shall be deemed for all
purposes to have been notice given to each of such members.
(4)
The accidental omission to give notice to a member or if a member shall fail to receive a notice sent pursuant to Subrule 3 shall not
invalidate a special general meeting.
(5)
A notice sent by post to a member shall be deemed to have been received by the member at the time at which the notice would
have been delivered in the ordinary course of post.
ADJOURNMENT OF MEETING
(1)
If at a special general meeting or at a Committee or Sub-Committee meeting a quorum shall not be present after the expiration of
thirty minutes from the appointed time thereof, the meeting shall there upon be adjourned in accordance with Rule 19(5).
(2)
A special general meeting of members or a meeting of members of a Committee or of a Sub-Committee shall have the power to
adjourn its proceedings from time to time for any period not exceeding at any one time, one month.
PROCEEDINGS AT ALL MEETINGS OF MEMBERS
(1)
All business that is transacted at a special general meeting and all business that is transacted at the annual general meeting with the
exception of that specially referred to in Rule 14(4) as being the ordinary business of the Annual General Meeting shall be deemed to
be special business.
(2)
Representation by proxy including voting by proxy is expressly precluded.
(3)
No item of business shall be transacted at a general meeting unless a quorum of members entitled under these rules to vote is
present during the time when the meeting is considering that item.
(4)
Nine (9) members personally present (being members entitled under these Rules to vote at a general meeting) constitute a quorum
for the transaction of the business of a general meeting.
(5)
If within half an hour after the appointed time for the commencement of a general meeting, a quorum is not present, the meeting is
convened upon the requisition of members under Rule 16(4) and (5) shall be dissolved and in any other case shall stand adjourned to
the same day in the next week at the same time and (unless another place is specified by the Chairperson at the time of the
adjournment of by written notice to members given before the day to which the meeting is adjourned) at the same place and if at
the adjourned meeting the quorum is not present within half an hour after the time appointed for the commencement of the
meeting, the members present (being not less than six (6)) shall be a quorum.
(6)
Chairperson
(a)
The President, or in the Presidents absence, a Vice-President, shall preside as Chairperson at each general meeting of the
Club.
(b)
If the President and the Vice-President are absent from a general meeting, the members present shall elect one of their
number to preside as Chairperson at the meeting.
Page 1.9
(c)
20.
The Chairperson of a general meeting at which a quorum is present may, with the consent of the meeting, adjourn the
meeting from time to time and place to place, but no business shall be transacted at an adjourned meeting other than the
business left unfinished at the meeting at which the adjournment took place.
(d)
Where a meeting is adjourned for 14 days or more, a like notice of the adjourned meeting shall be given as in the case of the
general meeting.
(e)
Except as provided in Subrules (1) and (2), it is not necessary to give notice of an adjournment or of the business to be
transacted at an adjourned meeting.
VOTING AT MEETINGS
(1)
A question arising at a general meeting of the Club shall be determined on a show of hands and, unless before or on the declaration
of the show of hands a poll is demanded, a declaration by the Chairperson that a resolution has, on a show of hands, been carried or
carried unanimously or carried by a particular majority or lost, and an entry to that effect in the Minute book of the Club is evidence
of the fact, without proof of the number or proportion of the votes recorded in favour of, or against, that resolution.
(a)
Upon any question arising at a general or committee meeting of the Club a member has one vote only. A dual membership
shall be entitled to one vote for each member of the dual membership.
(b)
All votes shall be given personally, except as provided for in Rule 28(5)(b).
(c)
In the case of an equality of voting on a question, the Chairperson of the meeting is entitled to exercise a second or casting
vote.
(2)
(a)
If at a meeting a poll on any question is demanded by not less than three members, it shall be taken at that meeting in such
manner as the Chairperson may direct and the resolution of the poll shall be deemed to be a resolution of the meeting on
that question.
(b)
A poll that is demanded on the election of a Chairperson or on a question of an adjournment shall be taken forthwith and a
poll that is demanded on any other question shall be taken at such time before the close of the meeting as the Chairperson
may direct.
(3)
A member is not entitled to vote at any general meeting unless all moneys due and payable by the member to the Club have been
paid, other than the amount of the annual subscription payable in respect of the current financial year.
PART 5
COMMITTEE
21. COMMITTEE OF MANAGEMENT
(1)
The affairs of the Club shall be managed by a Committee of Management constituted as provided in Rule 27(1).
(2)
The Committee:
(a)
shall control and manage the business and affairs of the Club.
(b)
may, subject to these Rules, the Regulations and the Act, exercise all such powers and functions as may be exercised by the
Club other than those powers and functions that are required by these Rules to be exercised by general meetings of the
members of the Club; and
(c)
subject to these Rules, the Regulations and the Act, has power to perform all such acts and things as appear to the
Committee to be essential for the proper management of the business and affairs of the Club.
22. OFFICERS OF THE CLUB
(1)
The Officers of the Club shall be:
(a)
a President;
(b)
two (2) Vice-Presidents;
(c)
a Treasurer;
(d)
a Secretary; and
(e)
such other Officers as required
each of whom shall be members of the VCA Inc.
(2)
The provisions of Rule 27 So far as they are applicable and with the necessary modification apply to and in relation to the election of
persons to any of the offices mentioned in Rule 22(1).
(3)
Each Officer of the Club shall hold office until the annual general meeting next after the date of their election but is eligible for reelection.
(4)
In the event of a casual vacancy in any office referred to in the Rule 22(1), the Committee may appoint one of its members to the
vacant office and the member so appointed may continue in office until the annual general meeting next following the date of
appointment.
23. GENERAL DUTIES
(1)
As soon as practicable after being elected or appointed to the Committee, each committee member must become familiar with these
Rules and the Act.
(2)
The Committee is collectively responsible for ensuring that the Association complies with the Act and that individual members of the
Committee comply with these Rules.
(3)
Committee members must exercise their powers and discharge their duties with reasonable care and diligence.
(4)
Committee members must exercise their powers and discharge their duties:
(a)
in good faith in the best interests of the Association; and
(b)
for a proper purpose.
(5)
Committee members and former committee members must not make improper use of:
(a)
their position; or
(b)
information acquired by virtue of holding their position:
so as to gain an advantage for themselves or any other person or to cause detriment to the Association.
Note: See also Division 3 of Part 6 of the Act which sets out the general duties of the office holders of an incorporated association.
24. PRESIDENT AND VICE-PRESIDENTS
(1)
Subject to subrule (2), the President or, in the President's absence, a Vice-President is the Chairperson for any general meetings and
for any committee meetings.
(2)
If the President and the Vice-Presidents are absent, or are unable to preside, the Chairperson of the meeting must be:
(a)
in the case of a general meeting—a member elected by the other members present; or
(b)
in the case of a committee meeting—a committee member elected by the other committee members present.
Page 1.10
25.
26.
27.
28.
SECRETARY
(1)
The Secretary must perform any duty or function required under the Act to be performed by the secretary of an incorporated
association.
(2)
The Secretary must:
(a)
maintain the register of members in accordance with rule 8; and
(b)
keep and maintain minutes of the resolutions and proceedings of each general meeting and each committee meeting in
books provided for that purpose together with a record of the names of persons present at committee meetings;
(c)
keep custody of the common seal (if any) of the Association and, except for the financial records referred to in rule 36(3), all
books, documents and securities of the Association in accordance with rules 41 and 42; and
(d)
subject to the Act and these Rules, provide members with access to the register of members, the minutes of general
meetings and other books and documents; and
(e)
keep and maintain all necessary records of the affairs of the club including a complete record of awards made at all
exhibitions and shows conducted by the Club, where necessary; and
(f)
shall forward to the VCA Inc. within one month of the annual general meeting an Audited Statement of Receipts and
Expenditure and Balance Sheet of the Club.
(f)
perform any other duty or function imposed on the Secretary by these Rules.
(3)
The Secretary must give to the Registrar notice of his or her appointment within 14 days after the appointment.
TREASURER
(1)
The Treasurer must:
(a)
Receive all monies paid to the Club and cause the same to be paid into the banking account of the Club kept for such purpose
within fourteen days of the receipt thereof;
(b)
Keep all necessary books of account and financial statements as shall be required by the Auditors, the VCA Inc. and the Act;
(c)
Make any payments authorised by the Committee or by a general meeting of the Association from the Association's funds;
(d)
Ensure cheques are signed by at least 2 committee members;
(e)
Prepare the annual accounts and accompanying reports;
(f)
Submit financial statements to all constituted meetings of the Committee and of the Club;
(g)
Produce in general meetings the cash books and bank passbook when requested to do so;
(h)
Keep vouchers for payments authorised by the Club and the Committee; and
(i)
Keep a true and correct inventory of all property of the Club.
(2)
The Treasurer must:
(a)
Ensure that the financial records of the Association are kept in accordance with the Act; and
(b)
Coordinate the preparation of the financial statements of the Association and their certification by the Committee prior to
their submission to the annual general meeting of the Association.
(3)
The Treasurer must ensure that at least one other committee member has access to the accounts and financial records of the
Association.
COMPOSITION OF COMMITTEE
(1)
Subject to the Act, the Committee shall consist of:
(a)
the Officers of the Club; and
(b)
the following Committee positions: Show Secretary, Health Officer, Puppy & Referral Officer; Publicity/Education Officer,
Fund Raising Co-ordinator, Sledding Co-ordinator, Weight-pull Co-ordinator, Back-packing Co-ordinator, Obedience Coordinator, Newsletter Editor.
(2)
Each ordinary member of the Committee shall, subject to these Rules, hold office until the annual general meeting next after the
date of the member's election but is eligible for re-election.
(3)
In the event of a casual vacancy occurring in the office of an ordinary member of the Committee, the Committee may appoint a
member of the Club to fill the vacancy and the member so appointed shall hold office, subject to these Rules, until the annual general
meeting next following the date of appointment.
ELECTION OF COMMITTEE OF MANAGEMENT
(1)
Nomination of candidates for election as Officers of the Club or as ordinary members of the Committee:
(a)
shall be made in writing in such form as the Committee shall prescribe, signed by one member of the Club and accompanied
by the written consent of the candidate (which may be endorsed on the form of nomination); and
(b)
shall be delivered to the Secretary of the Club not less than 21 days before the date fixed for the holding of the annual
general meeting.
(2)
If insufficient nominations are received to fill all vacancies on the Committee, the candidates nominated shall be deemed to be
elected and further nominations shall be received at the annual general meeting subject to each nominee consenting to such
nomination.
(3)
If the number of nominations received is equal to the number of vacancies to be filled, the persons nominated shall be deemed to be
elected.
(4)
If the number of nominations exceeds the number of vacancies to be filled, a ballot shall be held, for the purpose of Subrule 5(b) the
Secretary shall, upon closure of nominations of candidates for election to the Committee of Management when a ballot becomes
necessary under this Rule send forthwith to all members entitled to vote a list of all nominees in alphabetical order in respect of each
position on the Committee of Management for which they have been nominated.
(5)
The election of the Office Bearers and ordinary members of the Committee shall be by ballot:(a)
cast by members present at the annual general meeting and eligible to vote thereat;
(b)
notwithstanding Subrule 5(a) any member who is entitled to vote at the annual general meeting, but unable to attend shall
be entitled to apply to the Secretary for a postal vote. Application for a postal vote must be in writing and lodged with the
Secretary fourteen days prior to the annual general meeting. Within seven days the Secretary in the presence of the
President and one other Committee member appointed by the Committee will forward an initialled ballot paper to each
applicant and record their names. Members to whom ballot papers are posted will under no circumstances be given a second
ballot paper. Completed ballot papers are to be returned to the Returning Officer or the Secretary in envelopes endorsed,
"Ballot Papers". These envelopes shall be handed (unopened), to the Returning Officer officiating at the poll.
(6)
For the purposes of the ballot a Returning Officer shall be appointed at the general meeting of members immediately preceding the
annual general meeting or as the second item of business of the annual general meeting, and not less than two scrutineers shall be
appointed by the members at, and as, the second item of business of the annual general meeting.
Page 1.11
(7)
29.
30.
31.
Each member wishing to participate in the ballot shall strike out from the ballot paper all names in excess of the number of positions
vacant and ballot papers containing a greater or lesser number of candidates to be elected shall be invalid.
(8)
After the appointment of the Returning Officer and the Scrutineers the Returning Officer and the Scrutineers shall count the postal
votes returned in accordance with Subrule 5 and the votes cast by members in accordance with Subrules 5 and 7.
(9)
The Returning Officer shall declare the result of the ballot immediately after the votes have been counted and in the event of an
equality of votes in favour of any candidate which could affect the election of a candidate the members at the annual general
meeting shall elect one of such candidates to fill the vacancy for which he was nominate by a Resolution passed by a simple majority
of members present and voting thereon.
(10)
If any question shall arise as to the validity or invalidity of a ballot paper or whether any particular member has or has not been
elected to any particular Office a statement by the Returning Officer that the relevant voting paper is or is not valid or that a
particular member has or has not been elected to a particular Office shall be conclusive.
VACATION OF OFFICE
For the purposes of these Rules the office of an Officer of the Club or of an ordinary member of the Committee becomes vacant if the Officer
or member:
(a)
ceases to be member of the Club;
(b)
becomes an insolvent under administration within the meaning of the Companies (Victoria) Code;
(c)
resigns from office by notice in writing given to the Secretary;
(d)
is absent from three consecutive Committee meetings without leave of the Committee;
(e)
if as a member of the VCA Inc. is disqualified or suspended by the VCA Inc.
NOMINATION AND VOTING
(1)
Every member who was a financial member of the Club for not less than three months of the financial year preceding the annual
general meeting and is currently a financial member shall be entitled to vote at the annual general meeting and shall be eligible to
nominate or be nominated as an Office Bearer or member of the Committee. Unless the Club's By-Laws provide otherwise a
member may be nominated for but not hold more than one position on the Committee.
(2)
A person becoming a member between the closing date of the financial year preceding the annual general meeting and the date of
the annual general meeting, shall not be eligible to vote at the annual general meeting, nor to nominate, or be nominated for Office
Bearer or member of the Committee.
(3)
In all matters not covered by these Rules the rules of common debate shall apply provided always that the best interests of the
general members of the Club be served and general members have the right to vote in favour or against any Committee decision.
MEETING OF THE COMMITTEE
(1)
Meetings of the Committee shall be held at such place and at such time as the Committee from time to time determines.
(2)
The Secretary shall attend all meetings of the Committee. The minutes of such meetings signed by the Chairperson thereof or by the
Chairperson of a confirmatory meeting shall be accepted as sufficient evidence of the proceedings of such meeting.
(3)
The quorum for a Committee meeting shall be not less than half the number of elected members plus one, thereof present in person
or such other number as prescribed by members in By-Laws.
(4)
The Secretary shall call a meeting of the Committee whenever requested to do so by the President or by three members of the
Committee.
(5)
At meetings of the Committee:
(a)
the President or in the President's absence the Vice-President shall preside; or
(b)
if the President and the Vice-President are absent, such one of the remaining members of the Committee as may be chosen
by the members present shall preside.
(6)
A member of the Committee shall not vote in respect of any contract or proposed contract with the Club in which the member has a
conflict of interest or in respect of any matter arising thereout and if the member does so vote, the vote shall not be counted.
(7)
All acts done by any meeting of the Committee or of a Sub-Committee thereof or of a Sub-Committee appointed by the members or
by any person acting as a member of the Committee or of a Sub-Committee notwithstanding that it is afterwards discovered that
there was some defect in the appointment of the Committee or of a Sub-Committee or of any person acting as aforesaid, or that the
members of the Committee or any of them or of a Sub-Committee were disqualified shall be as valid as if any such person had been
validly appointed and was qualified to be a member of the Committee or of such Sub-Committee.
(8)
A resolution in writing signed by all members of the Committee for the time being entitled to receive notice of a meeting of the
Committee shall be as valid and effectual as if it has been passed at a meeting of the Committee duly held and convened. Any such
resolution may consist of several documents in like form each signed by one or more members of the Committee.
(9)
Subject to subrule (3) the Committee may act notwithstanding any vacancy on Committee.
(10)
Use of technology
(a)
A member not physically present at a Committee meeting may be permitted to participate in the meeting by the use of
technology that allows that member and the members present at the meeting to clearly and simultaneously communicate
with each other.
(b)
For the purposes of this Part, a member participating in a Committee meeting as permitted under subrule (10a) is taken to
be present at the meeting and, if the member votes at the meeting, is taken to have voted in person.
(11)
Conflict of interest
(1)
A committee member who has a material personal interest in a matter being considered at a committee meeting must
disclose the nature and extent of that interest to the Committee.
(2)
The member—
(a)
must not be present while the matter is being considered at the meeting; and
(b)
must not vote on the matter.
Note:
Under section 81(3) of the Act, if there are insufficient committee members to form a quorum because a member who has a material
personal interest is disqualified from voting on a matter, a general meeting may be called to deal with the matter.
(3)
This rule does not apply to a material personal interest—
(a)
that exists only because the member belongs to a class of persons for whose benefit the Association is established;
or
(b)
that the member has in common with all, or a substantial proportion of, the members of the Association.
(12) Minutes of meeting
(a)
The Committee must ensure that minutes are taken and kept of each committee meeting.
Page 1.12
(b)
32.
The minutes must record the following—
(i)
the names of the members in attendance at the meeting;
(ii) the business considered at the meeting;
(iii) any resolution on which a vote is taken and the result of the vote;
(iv) any material personal interest disclosed under subrule 11.
REMOVAL OF MEMBER OF COMMITTEE
(1)
The Club in general meeting may by a resolution, passed by three-fourths of the members voting in person, remove any member of
the Committee before the expiration of the term of office and appoint another member within fourteen days to hold office instead
until the expiration of the term of the first-mentioned member; however
(2)
Where the member to whom a proposed resolution referred to in subrule (1) makes representation in writing to the Secretary or
President of the Club (not exceeding a reasonable length) and requests that they be notified to the members of the Club, the
Secretary or the President may send a copy of the representations to each member of the Club or, if they are not so sent, the
member may require that they be read out at the meeting.
PART 6
FINANCIAL MATTERS
33. FINANCIAL YEAR
The financial year of the Club shall commence on the first day of July in each year, and terminate on the last day of June the following year.
Membership fees must be paid on or before the 1st day of November each year for continuity of membership.
34. BANKING ACCOUNT
(1)
The Committee shall cause a banking account to be opened with a recognised Bank or equivalent and be kept in the name of the
Club.
(2)
All cheques payable to the Club shall be deposited to the credit of the Club's banking account.
(3)
All monies payable on behalf of the Club amounting to $20.00 or upwards with the exception of prize money shall be paid by cheque
drawn upon the Club's bankers which shall be signed by the Treasurer or authorised deputy and any one of the Office Bearers
authorised to sign on behalf of the Club. Notice of every such authority or change thereof shall be given to the Club's bankers
forthwith whenever the need shall arise. Where an amount less than $20.00 is paid in cash, the Treasurer, or authorised deputy, shall
ensure a receipt is obtained at the time of the transaction.
35 SOURCE OF FUNDS
The funds of the Association may be derived from joining fees, annual subscriptions, donations, fund-raising activities, grants, interest and
any other sources approved by the Committee.
36. FINANCIAL RECORDS
(1)
The Association must keep financial records that:
(a)
correctly record and explain its transactions, financial position and performance; and
(b)
enable financial statements to be prepared as required by the Act.
(2)
The Association must retain the financial records for 7 years after the transactions covered by the records are completed.
(3)
The Treasurer must keep in his or her custody, or under his or her control:
(a)
the financial records for the current financial year; and
(b)
any other financial records as authorised by the Committee.
37. FINANCIAL STATEMENTS
(1)
For each financial year, the Committee must ensure that the requirements under the Act relating to the financial statements of the
Association are met.
(2)
Without limiting subrule (1), those requirements include:
(a)
the preparation of the financial statements;
(b)
the auditing of the financial statements;
(c)
the certification of the financial statements by the Committee;
(d)
the submission of the financial statements to the annual general meeting of the Association;
(e)
the lodgement with the Registrar of the financial statements and accompanying reports, certificates, statements and fee.
38. AUDIT AND AUDITOR
(1)
Subject to any Regulation that may be made under Section 222(1) of the Associations Incorporation Act the members at the annual
general meeting shall appoint a person with accountancy knowledge to be the Auditor of the Club and a person so appointed shall
hold that office until the next annual general meeting. A casual vacancy occurring in the position of Auditor shall be filled by the
Committee. A casual vacancy occurring in the position of Auditor shall be filled by the Committee.
(2)
Notice of the nomination of any person other than a retiring auditor for appointment as Auditor shall be given to the members not
less than fourteen days before the annual general meeting at which the appointment of Auditor is to be made.
(3)
A person shall not be appointed or act as Auditor of the Club if that person is an Office bearer or an ordinary member of the
Committee or an employee of the Club or any person with a perceived conflict of interest. Such Auditor to be a person suitably
qualified to conduct the audit and their qualifications to be included in the Auditor's Report.
PART 7
GENERAL MATTERS
39. NOTICES
(1)
A notice may be served on behalf of the Club upon any member either personally or be sending it by post to the member at the last
known address shown in the Register of Members.
(2)
Where a document is properly addressed pre-paid and posted to a person as a letter, the document shall, unless the contrary is
proved, be deemed to have been given to the person at the time at which the letter would have been delivered in the ordinary
course of post.
40. WINDING UP OR CANCELLATION
In the event of the winding up or the cancellation of the incorporation of the Club, the assets of the Club shall be disposed of in accordance
with the provisions of the Act and Rule 44 of these Rules.
41. SEAL
(1)
The Common Seal of the Club shall be kept in the custody of the Secretary.
(2)
The Common Seal shall not be affixed to any instrument except by the authority of the Committee and the affixing of the Common
Seal shall be attested by the signatures of either two members of the Committee or one member of Committee and the Public
Officer.
Page 1.13
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
CUSTODY OF RECORDS
(1)
Except as otherwise provided in the Act and in these Rules, the Secretary shall keep in custody or under control all books, documents
and securities of the Club.
(2)
The books and documents referred to in Rule 42(1) shall be available for inspection by members.
(3)
The Committee may refuse to permit a member to inspect records of the Association that relate to confidential, personal,
employment, commercial or legal matters or where to do so may be prejudicial to the interests of the Association.
(4)
The Committee must on request make copies of these rules available to members and applicants for membership free of charge.
(5)
Subject to subrule (3), a member may make a copy of any of the other records of the Association referred to in this rule and the
Association may charge a reasonable fee for provision of a copy of such a record.
(6)
For purposes of this rule, relevant documents means the records and other documents, however compiled, recorded or stored, that
relate to the incorporation and management of the Association and includes the following:
(a)
its membership records;
(b) its financial statements;
(c)
its financial records;
(d) records and documents relating to transactions, dealings, business or property of the Association.
FUNDS
The funds of the Club shall be derived from entrance fees, annual subscriptions, donations and such other sources as the committee
determines.
PROPERTY
The property assets and income of the Club, wherever derived, shall be applied towards the promotion of the Statement of Purposes of the
Club, and no portion thereof shall be paid or transferred either directly or indirectly to any member or members of the Club. Provided that
nothing herein contained shall prevent the payment in good faith of remuneration or reimbursement to any officers or servants of the Club
or any member in return for services actually rendered or for authorised expenses incurred nor prevent the payment of interest on money
borrowed from any member of the Club. Should the Club for any reason whatsoever cease to function, the members may, at a meeting
specially convened for the purpose of the winding up of the affairs of the Club, direct by resolution, passed by a majority of 75% of financial
members, that the funds be donated to an approved charity or applied for use by an approved canine activity.
ALTERATIONS OF RULES AND STATEMENT OF PURPOSE
These Rules and the Statement of Purposes of the Club shall not be altered except in accordance with the Associations Incorporation Reform
Act, and any such alterations are to be advised to the Manager of the VCA Inc. without delay.
BY-LAWS
Subject always to the Associations Incorporation Act, VCA Inc. Rules and Regulations, and these Rules, members in general meeting by
resolution passed by a majority of not less than three fourths of the members present and voting in person may make By-Laws and may from
time to time amend such By-Laws by variation, deletion or addition as they shall think fit in respect of:
(a)
nominations of members;
(b)
amount of joining fee, if any, and the annual membership subscription;
(c)
the conducting of ballots;
(d)
the holding and conducting of Shows and Exhibitions by the Club;
(e)
the granting of awards and prizes at such Shows or Exhibitions;
(f)
the manner and procedure of dealing with protests and objections made at Shows or Exhibitions subject always to VCA Inc.
Rules;
(g)
meetings of members and of Committees;
(h)
the publication of a newsletter or journal;
(i)
any matter the members consider necessary.
AFFILIATION WITH THE VCA INC.
(1)
The club shall affiliate with the VCA Inc. as provided for in the Rules and Regulations of the VCA Inc.
(2)
Members agree to be bound by the Constitution, Rules and Regulations of the VCA Inc. and the VCA Inc. Code of Ethics and Codes of
Practice. Members also agree to abide by, observe and comply with any decisions or directives of the Management Committee of the
VCA Inc.
BY-LAWS OF THE ALASKAN MALAMUTE CLUB, VICTORIA, INC.
as of 19 JUNE, 1997 (Amended 24 June 2008 & 13 October 2011)
BY-LAW NO. 1
Quorum at Meetings:
The quorum for a particular meeting shall be:(1)
Sub-Committee Meetings - at least 75% of members of the Sub-Committee.
(2)
General and Committee Meetings – quorum shall be one half of the number of elected Committee Members plus one.
BY-LAW NO. 2
Categories of Membership:
(1)
The membership of the Club shall consist of the following categories, the interpretation of some being that contained in Rule 3(1)
of the Club's Rules:
Ordinary, Dual, Junior, Family, Interstate, Honorary and Life Membership.
(2)
A Dual Membership is entitled to two (2) votes at General Meetings.
(3)
A Junior Member is not entitled to vote at General Meetings, but may participate in meeting proceedings.
(4)
A Family Membership comprises of the Parent/s and their children under eighteen (18) years of age and is entitled to one (1) vote
per adult member at General Meetings.
(5)
An Interstate Membership does not have voting rights, is not entitled to vote at General Meetings, but may participate in meeting
proceedings.
BY-LAW NO. 3
Committee Positions:
In the event of insufficient nominations being received, Committee persons may hold more than one Committee position.
Page 1.14
Statement of Purposes
The objects of the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria, Inc. are:
(a)
to affiliate with the Victorian Canine Association Inc.;
(b)
to promote and encourage the breeding of pure bred dogs and in particular the Alaskan Malamute.
(c)
to promote and raise the standards and exhibition of registered pure bred dogs, particularly the Alaskan
Malamute.
(d)
to promote the holding of Exhibitions under the VCA Inc. Rules and Regulations and to conduct Exhibitions
and/or to promote Obedience training and to conduct Obedience training and to conduct Obedience Trials,
Tracking Tests, and Field Trials;
(e)
to foster, promote and protect the interest of exhibitors of dogs at exhibitions and particularly the exhibitors
of Alaskan Malamutes
(f)
to collect, verify and publish information relating to dogs and the breeding and exhibition of dogs;
(g)
to educate and encourage members, breeders and judges to abide by the requirements and standards
approved by the VCA Inc. for the conduct of Exhibitions and Shows;
(h)
to promote good fellowship and sportsmanship amongst members and those participating in or attending at
Exhibitions and Shows;
(i)
to inform members of and make known to them the Laws and Regulations of the State relating to the
ownership and care of dogs, and the responsibility of owners for the conduct and actions of their dogs;
(j)
to hold functions and lectures relating to dogs and to the purposes of the Club generally;
(k)
to provide awards and donate prizes for competition at Exhibitions and for the competition by breeders and
exhibitors of dogs;
(l)
to foster relations with other Clubs and bodies having similar aims;
(m)
to promote and assist worthy causes, as agreed at a General Meeting of the members of the Club;
(n)
to the invest the funds of the Club not immediately required in such manner as the members or the
Committee in lieu thereof shall determine;
(o)
to purchase, hire, lease, etc. and do such things as are conductive or incidental to promoting and achieving
the purposes of the Club;
(p)
to carry on such other activities or promote or encourage interest in the breeding, upkeep and training of
and the general well-being and improvement of Alaskan Malamutes and to do all such other things as may
be necessary or conductive to carrying out the objects of the Club
Page 1.15
Breeders’ Directory, Puppy & Stud Dog Register Guidelines
In addition to the previous requirements, please note that updates to health testing requirements for use of the AMCV
Breeders’ Directory, Puppy and Stud Dog Registers are effective as of 1 January, 2012.
Guidelines for Breeders’ Directory
AMCV Members are invited to register their kennel for a one year period for a fee of $25.00. Entries remain in the directory for
the entire year regardless of the availability of litters from the breeder. The owner(s) of the kennel must have a kennel pr efix
registered with the ANKC, and must have been an AMCV member for at least the last 3 months for Breeders' Directory
advertisements to be accepted.
Breeders who are listed on the AMCV Breeders’ Directory are required to notify the AMCV Secretary (within 28 days) of any
litters whelped under their kennel prefix and must comply with the following requirements for any litters whelped under that
prefix. Both sire and dam must:

have been x-rayed for hip dysplasia and passed

have been x-rayed for elbow dysplasia and passed*

hold a current (issued no later than 12 months prior to mating) ACES eye certificate or equivalent, and

have within 12 months prior to mating been tested for thyroid including for TGAA, with such test results to indicate the
dog is clear of thyroid problems.
*elbow x-ray results will not be required from dogs that have already been hip x-rayed before 1 January 2012.
NB: Frozen semen from dogs not available for testing is exempt from the above requirements.
Failure to do so will result in the cancellation of their Breeders’ Directory entry for a period of 12 months, or at the Committee’s
discretion – no refund will be given.
Guidelines for Stud Dog Register
The owner of the stud dog must have been an AMCV member for at least the last 3 months for a stud dog advertisement to be
accepted. Any member wishing to register their Malamute on the AMCV Stud Dog Register can send their entry, photograph
and annual payment of $50.00 to the AMCV, PO Box 41, Hurstbridge, 3099. Please provide the owner’s name & contact
details, stud dog’s name, colour, sire and dam, date of birth, a brief note of his achievements (400 characters max.) and hip
grade status. To be eligible for advertisement, Stud Dogs must:

have been x-rayed for hip dysplasia and passed

have been x-rayed for elbow dysplasia and passed*

hold a current (issued no later than 12 months prior to mating) ACES eye certificate or equivalent, and

have within 12 months prior to mating been tested for thyroid including for TGAA, with such test results to indicate the
Please Note: Hip evaluation reports must be submitted for the hip grade status to be recorded as a “Pass” - entries submitted
without a hip evaluation report will have the Hip Grade Status recorded as “Not Provided”. Each entry will cover approximately
one quarter of a page and will be published for one year (6 issues). The list of stud dogs will also be made available to nonmembers.
Guidelines for Puppy Register
The requirements for litters to be eligible for the Puppy Register are as follows:

The owner of the dam (mother of the litter) must have been an AMCV member for at least the last 6 months;

Both sire and dam (father & mother) of the litter must:
- Be purebred Alaskan Malamutes registered with the ANKC or equivalent
- have been x-rayed and passed for Hip Dysplasia;
- be x-rayed for elbow dysplasia and passed.*
- hold a current (issued no later than 12 months prior to mating) Australian Canine Eye Scheme (ACES) eye certificate
or equivalent, and
- have within 12 months prior to mating been tested for thyroid including for TGAA, with such test results to indicate the

All puppies on the register are to be sold with registration papers (either main or limited register).
Members advertising on the breeders’, puppy and stud-dog registers are reminded that failure to comply with the
AMCV Code of Ethics and above requirements could result in cancellation of their advertisement. Advertisements will
be placed on the AMCV website unless the AMCV Secretary has been notified otherwise.
Page 1.16
AMCV Register of Achievement
The aim of the Register of Achievement is to recognise Alaskan Malamutes* in Australia that have achieved to an outstanding
level in a particular field or over a range of fields. A record of the Alaskan Malamutes who qualify for the Register of
Achievement will be kept in a dedicated record book which will include a photograph and profile on those Alaskan Malamute s.
Recognition of all Alaskan Malamutes who qualify for the Register of Achievement will also be published in the "Malamute
Mail". There is no application fee. The guidelines for the AMCV Register of Achievement are as follows:
The Committee will consider achievements which are not included on the above list if accompanied by suitable supporting
documentation.
*
Alaskan Malamutes must be purebred and registered with the ANKC to be eligible for inclusion in the AMCV Register of
Achievement.
HOW TO QUALIFY
To qualify for the AMCV Register of Achievement the Alaskan Malamute* must have fulfilled the criteria of AT LEAST ONE
OF THE FOLLOWING FIVE METHODS:
Method 1:
1.1 Grand Champion or 1000 point Champion
PLUS
1.2 Any one achievement from the list below.
Method 2:
2.1 Australian Champion Title (or equivalent title)
PLUS
2.2 Any two achievements from the list below
Method 3:
3.1 Australian Champion Title (or equivalent title)
PLUS
3.2 Any Working Dog Excellent title or Obedience Excellent title (e.g. Working Weight-Pull Dog
Excellent, Companion Dog Excellent)
Method 4:
4.1 Any Working Dog Excellent title or Obedience Excellent title (e.g. Working Weight-Pull Dog
Excellent, Companion Dog Excellent)
PLUS
4.2 Any two achievements from the list below (but not in the same field as the Excellent title used to
qualify under point 4.1)
Method 5:
Any 4 achievements from the list below
List of Qualifying Criteria*:
• Best In Show (Championship Show, minimum entry 500)
• Best In Specialty Championship Show
• Companion Dog
• Utility Dog
• Agility Dog
• Endurance Title
• Canine Good Citizen
• Working Pack Dog (AMCV or equivalent)
• Working Weight-pull Dog (AMCV or equivalent)
• Working Lead Dog (AMCV or equivalent)
• Working Team Dog (AMCV or equivalent)
• Dog that has sired, or Bitch that has whelped, 3 or more Australian Champions (or equivalent title)
*
The AMCV Committee will consider achievements which are not included on the above list if accompanied by
suitable supporting documentation.
HOW TO REGISTER
Applications for the AMCV Register of Achievement, are to be submitted in writing to the Secretary for the consideration
of the Committee. All applications are to be accompanied by supporting documentation of the dog’s achievements , a
copy of the registration certificate and a photograph.
Any queries about the AMCV Register of Achievement can be directed to the Secretary.
Page 1.17
Section 2: About the Alaskan Malamute
Alaskan Malamute Breed Standard
Country of Development: United States of America
GENERAL APPEARANCE: The Alaskan Malamute, one of the oldest
Arctic sled dogs, is a powerful and substantially built dog with a deep
chest and strong, well-muscled body.
The Malamute stands well over the pads, and this stance gives the
appearance of much activity and proud carriage, with head erect when
alerted. The muzzle is bulky, only slight diminishing in width from root
to nose. The muzzle is not pointed or long, yet not stubby.
The coat is thick with a coarse guard coat of sufficient length to protect
a woolly undercoat. Malamutes are of various colours. Face
markings are a distinguishing feature. These consist of a cap over the
head, the face either all white or marked with a bar and/or mask. The
tail is well furred, carried over the back and has the appearance of a
waving plume.
The Malamute must be a heavy boned dog with sound legs, good feet,
deep chest and powerful shoulders, and have all of the other physical
attributes necessary for the efficient performance of his job.
The gait must be steady, balanced, tireless and totally efficient. He is
not intended as a racing sled dog designed to compete in speed trials.
The Malamute is structured for strength and endurance, and any
characteristic of the individual specimen, including temperament,
which interferes with the accomplishment of this purpose, is to be
considered the most serious of faults.
CHARACTERISTICS - Important: In judging Malamutes, their function
as a sledge dog for heavy freighting in the Arctic must be given
consideration above all else. The legs of the Malamute must indicate
unusual strength and tremendous propelling power. Face markings
are a distinguishing feature.
TEMPERAMENT: The Alaskan Malamute is an affectionate, friendly
dog, not a “one man” dog. He is a loyal, devoted companion, playful
on invitation, but generally impressive by his dignity after maturity.
HEAD AND SKULL: The head is broad and deep, not coarse or
clumsy, but in proportion to the size of the dog. The expression is soft
and indicates an affectionate disposition.
Skull: Is broad and moderately rounded between the ears, gradually
narrowing and flattening on top as it approaches the eyes, rounding off
to cheeks that are moderately flat. There is a slight furrow between
the eyes. The topline of the skull and the topline of the muzzle show a
slight break downward from a straight line as they join.
Muzzle: Is large and bulky in proportion to the size of the skull,
diminishing slightly in width and depth from junction with the skull to
the nose. The lips are close fitting.
Nose, lips and eye rims’ pigmentation: is black in all coat colours
except red dogs. The lighter streaked “snow nose” is acceptable.
EYES: The eyes are obliquely placed in the skull. Eyes are brown,
almond shaped and of medium size. Dark eyes are preferred. Blue
eyes are a disqualifying fault.
EARS: The ears are of medium size, but small in proportion to the
head. The ears are triangular in shape and slightly rounded at the
tips. They are set wide apart on the outside back edges of the skull
on line with the upper corner of the eye, giving ears the appearance,
when erect, of standing off from the skull. Erect ears point slightly
forward, but when the dogs is at work, the ears are sometimes folded
against the skull. High set ears are a fault.
MOUTH: The upper and lower jaws are broad with large teeth. The
incisors meet with a scissors grip. Overshot or undershot is a fault.
NECK: The neck is strong and moderately arched.
FOREQUARTERS: The shoulders are moderately sloping; forelegs
heavily boned and muscled, straight to the pasterns when viewed from
the front. Pasterns are short and strong and slightly sloping when
viewed from the side.
BODY: The chest is well developed. The body is compactly built but
not short coupled. The back is straight and gently sloping to the hips.
The loins are hard and well muscled. A long loin that may weaken the
back is a fault.
HINDQUARTERS: The rear legs are broad and heavily muscled
through the thighs; stifles moderately bent, hock joints are moderately
bent and well let down. When viewed from the rear, legs stand and
move true in line with the movement of the front legs, not too close nor
too wide. Dewclaws on the rear legs are undesirable and should be
removed shortly after puppies are whelped.
American Kennel Club
Effective 31st May 1994 (Amended January 1996)
FEET: Are of the snowshoe type, tight and deep, with well-cushioned
pads, giving a firm, compact appearance. The feet are large, toes
tight fitting and well arched. There is a protective growth of hair
between the toes. The pads are thick and tough; toenails short and
strong.
TAIL: Is moderately set and follows the line of the spine at the base.
The tail is carried over the back when not working. It is not a snap tail
or curled tight against the back, nor is it short furred like a fox brush.
The Malamute tail is well furred and has the appearance of a waving
plume.
GAIT AND MOVEMENT: The gait of the Malamute is steady,
balanced and powerful. He is agile for his size and build. When
viewed from the side, the hindquarters exhibit strong rear drive that is
transmitted through a well-muscled loin to the forequarters. The
forequarters receive the drive from the rear with a smooth reaching
stride. When viewed from the front or from the rear, the legs move
true in line, not too close nor too wide. At a fast trot, the front will
converge toward the centreline of the body. A stilted gait, or any gait
that is not completely efficient and tireless, is to be penalised.
COAT: The Malamute has a thick, coarse guard coat, never long and
soft. The undercoat is dense, from 2.5-5 cm (1-2 ins) in depth, oily
and woolly. The coarse guard coat varies in length as does the
undercoat. The coat is relatively short to medium along the sides of
he body, with the length of the coat increasing around the shoulders
and neck, and down the back, over the rump, and in the breeching
and plume. Malamutes usually have a shorter and less dense coat
during the summer months. The Malamute is shown naturally.
Trimming is not acceptable except to provide a clean cut appearance
of feet.
COLOUR:
The usual colours range from light grey through
intermediate shadings to black, sable and shadings of sable to red.
Colour combinations are acceptable in undercoats, points, and
trimmings. The only solid colour allowable is all white. White is
always the predominant colour on underbody, parts of legs and feet,
and part of face markings. A white blaze on the forehead and/or
collar, or a spot on the nape is attractive and acceptable. The
Malamute is mantled, and broken colours, extending over the body or
uneven splashing are undesirable.
SIZE - Size, Proportion and Substance: There is a natural range of
size in the breed. The desirable freighting sizes are:
Dogs
63.5 cm (25 ins) at the shoulders - 38.5 kg (85 lbs)
Bitches 58.5 cm (23 ins) at the shoulders - 34 kg (75 lbs)
However, size consideration should not outweigh that of type,
proportion, movement and other functional attributes. When dogs are
judged equal in type, proportion and movement, the dog nearest the
desirable freighting size is to be preferred. The depth of chest is
approximately one half the height of the dog at the shoulders, the
deepest point being just behind the forelegs. The length of the body
from point of shoulder to the rear point of pelvis is longer than the
height of the body from ground to top of the withers. The body carries
no excess weight, and bone is in proportion to size.
FAULTS: The degree to which a dog is penalised should depend
upon the extent to which the dog deviates from the description of the
ideal Malamute, and the extent to which the particular fault would
actually affect the working ability of the dog.
Serious faults: Any characteristic of the individual specimen, including
temperament, which interferes with his strength and endurance is to
be considered the most serious of faults.
Any indication of unsoundness in legs and feet, front or rear, standing
or moving. Faults under this provision would be :
Ranginess, shallowness, ponderousness
Lightness of bone
Poor overall proportion
Straight shoulders
Lack of angulation
Bad pasterns
Cow hocks
Splay footedness
Stilted gait, or any gait that is not balanced, strong and steady.
Faults: High set ears
Over or undershot
Broken colours extending over the body or uneven
splashing.
Disqualification: Blue eyes.
NOTE: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles
fully descended into the scrotum.
Page 2.1
Owning an Alaskan Malamute
The Alaskan Malamute is an arctic sledding and hunting dog.
They are very attractive but can be a challenge to own and are
not suitable for everyone. They require an owner who has a
very good understanding and respect for the origins, traits and
needs of the breed.
The Malamutes’ strongly entrenched survival instincts include
hunting, digging, being competitive with other dogs, eating just
about anything and pulling very hard on lead.
Being a large, strong and sometimes exuberant breed, they
are not suitable as a children’s dog or for the elderly. The
Malamute is by no means the ideal family pet, there are many
other breeds of dog much more suited for that.
They are useless as a guard dog as they love all people, but
their friendliness often does not extend to other animals.
Before you get an Alaskan Malamute
When choosing a dog you need to consider if the breed is
going to suit your lifestyle, and if your family is going to be able
to cope with the needs and traits typical of that breed.
Owning an Alaskan Malamute is a decision that must not be
made without a great deal of consideration, research and
objectivity. If you are a fit active person and love plenty of
outdoor activities in which a dog can participate, you may find it
very rewarding to own an Alaskan Malamute.
Be realistic: if you are not going to be able to provide a caring
and suitable long-term home, please don't get a Malamute just
because it “looks good”.
What to expect from the Alaskan Malamute
Be aware that the Alaskan Malamute is quite likely to:

dig up your lawn and garden

not be friendly towards other pets

require very good fencing and strong gates

be very intelligent, but
not necessarily obedient

be difficult to train

pull on lead

run away if let off lead,
not come when called

be too strong for
children or the elderly to
walk

hunt other animals

not be friendly to other dogs, particularly those of the
same sex

require a lot of exercise, obedience training and mental
stimulus

do just about anything for food

shed massive amounts of hair at certain times
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need a lot of brushing but not much washing
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be friendly and happy to greet all people
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not be a good guard dog
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not bark, but occasionally howl
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require an owner that understands the breed and is firm
but fair.
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Are you going to be able to provide a permanent home for
the Malamute?
Are you financially able to support a large dog? Take into
account feeding, worming, registering, vet bills etc.
Do you have time to exercise a Malamute every day?
Are you fit enough to cope with a large, strong dog and will
you be able to walk it?
Are you confident with large dogs? The Malamute needs a
firm owner they can respect.
If you have another dog, are the two going to get along?
Do you own your own home, have a reasonably big yard
with excellent fencing and good gates?
Are you prepared to always walk your dog on lead?
Are you prepared to put up with a dog that may do some
extensive “garden remodelling”?
Purchasing a Puppy
It is important that any pet dog is healthy, has a good
temperament and is at minimal risk of hereditary defects.
Any purebred puppy should only be purchased from a
reputable and responsible breeder, even if it is just to be a
family pet. These breeders will keep the mother and litter
mates together until at least 8 weeks old, be very discerning
about where their puppies go, will have done the necessary
hereditary disease testing and will have pedigree papers and
other documentation about the puppy and its background.
Paying a bit extra for a puppy from a reputable breeder is
money well spent and could save you from costly health and
temperament problems later on. Read the articles on health
problems, selecting a breeder and puppy in the AMCV
information pack for more details.
If you already have a dog or other animals
Dogs: Be aware that Malamutes are not always friendly
towards other dogs. If you already have a dog, we strongly
recommend you get a Malamute of the opposite sex. The
Malamute may well need to be separated from your other
dog(s) at feeding times to avoid fights.
Cats & Other Animals: Malamutes and cats can co-exist quite
happily in many cases, and most often do when the Malamute
is brought up with the cat from puppyhood. However be
cautious if you are adopting an older Malamute it may well
think the family puss is something to be hunted.
Malamutes cannot be trusted around livestock or wildlife, and
will not always come when called. If you have caged animals
make sure the cages are strong and in a confined area away
from the Malamute.
Of course each dog is different - not all Malamutes will display
all of the above behaviours and there can always be the odd
exception to the rule. However, if you are not prepared to have
a dog that does any of the above, then the Alaskan Malamute
might not be the breed for you.
Be aware that young puppies may not display these
behaviours or traits, however as the Malamute matures it is
very likely that most of these behaviours will develop.
Things you need to consider:
Activities for the Malamute
Being a working dog, owners
must be prepared to spend
plenty of time exercising their
Malamute. Malamutes love to
satisfy their natural heritage and
working instincts with activities
such as sledding, weight-pulling
and backpacking.
Malamutes are not suited to
guard work or any activity that
involves being off-lead. The Malamute enjoys and needs
obedience training, however they may well not achieve high
standards in this activity.
Further Information
If you would like more information about the Alaskan
Malamute, purchasing a puppy or adopting please contact us
or visit the website www.amcv.org.au .
Page 2.2
Malamute FAQs
Is the Malamute the same as a Husky?
What activities can you do with a Malamute?
No, Huskies and Malamutes are two different breeds. They do
look similar, but the Malamute is a larger, stockier looking breed
and cannot have blue eyes. The Husky also tends to be more
hyperactive than the Malamute and is the faster of the two arctic
sledding breeds.
Do they eat a lot?
Being an arctic working dog, the Malamute enjoys any
activity that involves pulling in harness. These activities
including sledding (mainly done in Australia with the dogs
pulling scooters), weight pulling and backpacking. The
Alaskan Malamute Club offers these and other activities that
Malamutes love, and anyone is welcome to join in.
You would think so, but for a large dog they need surprisingly little
food. Being an arctic breed they metabolise their food very
efficiently, but because they will eat all they can lay their paws on
they are very prone to becoming overweight. They need an owner
who is prepared to be strict with their diet.
Are they good guard dogs?
No! Malamutes should love all people and will greet any
stranger with delight. Their size and appearance may,
however, act as a visual deterrent. They are not a loyal, oneman dog and most would happily go off with anyone.
How do they cope in summer?
Can a Malamute be walked off lead?
Malamutes cope very well in all
climates as in Alaska it also gets
quite warm in summer as well as
being extremely cold in winter. They
won’t be as active in the heat and will
need a cool shady place to lie and
plenty of cool water. The Malamute’s
double coat acts as it’s insulation,
just like the insulation in your roof, so
the coat should not be shaved or
clipped in summer.
NO! The Malamute has an inquisitive nature and strong
hunting instinct and most often will not come back when
called. This, coupled with the fact that they may not always
be friendly to other dogs, means that Malamute owners need
to be prepared always have their Malamute on lead in public
places.
Are Malamutes good with children?
Malamutes love all people, including children, however their
size and exuberance can make them unsuitable playmates
for children. The Malamute is also very strong and should
never be walked by a child – this breed is definitely an adult’s
dog.
Do they need much exercise?
Malamutes were originally bred as working dogs, so they love as
much exercise as you can give them. This is not a breed that will
run around the yard exercising itself, so Malamute owners must be
prepared to take their dogs out for some exercise. The adult
Malamute should have at least 1/2 hour exercise a day and
preferably be involved in some working activities to satisfy their
natural instincts to pull.
Are they good with the garden?
The answer is definitely NO! Malamutes have a natural survival
instinct to dig, which they do in the arctic to make a den or hollow
to shelter from harsh weather. They also dig in summer to create
a hollow to lie in and keep cool from the temperature of the soil,
and some dig just for fun or may eat the dirt. Because they love to
excavate, a Malamute can become a one-dog garden-remodelling
unit, even moreso if bored! If you love a nice neat, manicured
garden, this might not be the breed for you.
Do they need alot of grooming?
Malamutes need surprisingly little grooming, except when they are
dropping their coat (usually once a year for males and twice a year
for females).
The Malamute is a breed that needs little or no washing if the coat
is in healthy condition. A regular brushing should be sufficient to
keep most Malamutes clean and free of odours, however during
shedding of the undercoat they need daily brushing and grooming
with an undercoat rake to remove the loose hair. Their coat drop
acts as their “spring cleaning” and within a few weeks the new,
clean undercoat grows back.
Do they need a big backyard?
The adult Malamute may not run around the yard on its own so
they do not need a huge backyard, however they will need an
owner with plenty of time to exercise them, always on lead. The
Malamute has a natural instinct to roam over a huge distance if
given the opportunity, so the security and strength of fencing and
gates is very important.
Are they easy to train?
No - Malamutes are very intelligent and learn quickly, but also can
be extremely stubborn and independent-minded. They have many
strongly entrenched survival instincts that won't be overcome
completely with training. This makes obedience training a
challenging task, but an extremely important one as they need to
recognise that you are their pack leader.
Page 2.3
Are Malamutes related to the Wolf?
No - Malamutes are no more closely related to the wolf than
any other domestic dog. They have a wolf-like appearance
as they have many of the same physical characteristics that
are necessary for arctic survival.
Why do I need Pedigree Papers for a pet?
Even if you want the Malamute just as a pet, good health and
temperament are still extremely important.
The pedigree papers are the only proof you can get that the
puppy or dog you are getting is in fact a purebred Malamute.
The pedigree papers are similar to your car registration
papers and you wouldn’t buy a car without those!
Any breeder who does not offer papers for the puppy is not
being responsible, is in breach of the rules of the State and
National Canine Controlling bodies (VCA/ANKC) and should
be avoided.
How much can I expect to pay?
The price of a purebred pedigreed Malamute puppy will vary
considerably from breeder to breeder, however you can
expect to pay around the $1000 mark. Some breeders will
charge less, some quite a bit more, but purchase price is not
the time to try and save money. Spending a few hundred
dollars extra to purchase a pedigree puppy from a reputable
breeder could save you money and disappointment in the
long term.
What is a “Giant” Malamute?
The term "Giant Malamute" does not refer to a recognised
breed, but may be used by some breeders to make an
oversized Malamute sound more acceptable to the
unsuspecting puppy buyer. The recommended size for the
Alaskan Malamute is between 23-25 inches and 34-39 kg as
a mature adult so this is a large, but not giant, breed. A
reputable breeder would never deliberately breed or promote
oversized Malamutes as they cannot effectively do the work
the Malamute breed is designed for and can be more prone
to health and structural problems. Bigger is definitely NOT
better for this breed.
Prepared by the AMCV, January 2008
Malamute 101
By Ian DunbarPhD MRCVS
Reprinted from "Dogfancy" November 1995
while I earned my Ph.D. in dog
Despite their magnificent
behaviour. This information stood
northern good looks and
me in good stead when it came to
delightful sense of humour,
raising my second Malamute,
Alaskan Malamutes are not what
Phoenix. This information made
you would call "starter dogs." Of
her training as easy as it was
all the breeds of dog, the
enjoyable. And it provided brain
Malamute maintains the
fodder for my many books and
distinction of displaying the
videos on dog behaviour, which
greatest difference between its
have enabled numerous dog
cuddlability as a puppy and its
owners worldwide to enjoy dogpotential intractability as an adult
friendly and user-friendly training
dog. Malamute pups are seductechniques.
tively deceptive, luring
unsuspecting owners into a
I have lived with only two gorgeous
feeling of lovable overconfidence: fluffy, snuggly-cuddly dogs
Malamutes, but I have trained at least a couple of hundred.
that are quick to learn and easy to train.
Even though I am hopelessly biased, believing they can be the
most delightful of canine companions, I would be the first to
Unfortunately, even though Malamutes are incredibly smart
admit that Malamutes are not for everyone. Malamutes are
(certainly the fastest leamers of all the breeds) they are also
quite large and very strong, and they tend to approach training
the fastest to forget. Things begin to deteriorate as the pup
a little differently than other breeds. People call this trait
approaches adolescence, during which Malamutes can excel in
stubbornness, while Malamutes seem to look at it as creative
canny improvisations during domestic training - the first step of
thinking.
a lifelong quest to do it their way. But it gets worse.
Malamutes collide with full-blown adolescence, and seemingly
Regardless of the terminology, intelligent prospective owners
overnight, they develop into large, strong wily adults that can
familiarise themselves with the Malamute
be tricky to handle.
point of view before they get a puppy.
Remember, Malamute puppies grow up
So it was with my first Malamute,
One session with adult quickly, dramatically changing from
Totemtock's Omaha Beagle CD. Omaha
Malamutes is a simple but puppyhood to adolescence within three to
was a beautiful puppy who was easy to
ruthless test of your four months. For goodness sakes, do not
handle and quick to train. He sat
make the same mistakes that I made. Do
promptly and willingly, settled down
readiness for ownership. not use your first Malamute as your practice
calmly and heeled like a dream. More
dog. Make sure you know what to expect
importantly, he was people-friendly, dogand what you are going to do before you get a cute, cuddly
friendly and well-behaved around the house and garden. Then,
pup. Find out how any dog is likely to act as an adult, and
wham! He crashed headlong into adolescence and started to
especially find out how adult Malamutes are likely to act.
pull on his leash, howl at the moon, trim carpets and dig in the
garden. Moreover, he went about these activities with a
Good Malamute owners need to be dedicated and wellvengeance. What happened to that calm, quiet pup of
prepared, with grey matter as active as their lifestyles. Do a lot
yestermonth who heeled beautifully?
of research about breed specifics and training beforehand.
Make sure you are perfectly familiar with lure and reward
How could I have been so stupid? Of course Omaha would
training techniques and, specifically, that you feel comfortable
want to chew and dig and vocalize - he's a dog. What did I
training a dog that may be significantly stronger and probably
expect him to do? Needlepoint and crosswords? Of course he
larger than most family members - a dog that can easily pull
would want to howl and pull on leash - he's a Malamute. In
several thousand pounds.
fact, it was the howling and leash pulling that tipped me off to
simple solutions. His behaviour made me realize that his soMake sure you know how to redirect your pup's natural doggy
called "problems" were perfectly normal ingredients of any
behaviours to appropriate and acceptable outlets. Most
dog's natural behaviour repertoire that simply occurred at
importantly, make sure you know how to socialize your puppy,
inappropriate times.
and train it to be friendly with people and other dogs. Because,
if your Malamute is not friendly, you will have an enormous
I trained Omaha to perform each "problem" behaviour on cue
problem on your hands.
to help redirect each doggy activity to some appropriate setting.
All of a sudden, the behaviours were no longer problems. For
To learn how to teach basic manners and prevent the most
example, I encouraged him to howl through the sunroof
common behaviour and temperament problems, audit a local
whenever we were stopped in rush-hour traffic on the Oaklandpuppy-training class.
San Francisco Bay Bridge. He was happy, and I was happy.
The quickest and most revealing source of Malamutian
Also, he had less of an urge to howl at other times.
information may be obtained from taking a real-life Malamute
Similarly, I allowed Omaha to indulge his pulling habit by
101 course: Locate six Malamute owners, talk to them and testoccasionally instructing him to pull me along on walks - very
drive their dogs. I learned so much from Omaha. Think what
useful when trudging up hills. He also was allowed to pull me
you can learn from six Malamutes. Moreover, pet owners will
while I was on skis or in a sled. Now he was more inclined to
gladly forewarn you of all the problems they encountered as
walk by my side when heeling. Stuffing chew toys with treats
well as offer preventive advice. Learn from other people's
nattily solved the chewing problem. And in the garden, I built
mistakes and make sure your Malamute puppy enjoys the
Omaha a digging pit with hidden stuffed chewtoy treasures.
luxury of growing up with an educated owner.
We were back on track again - living in harmony. Omaha
If you cannot handle the adult dogs, do a lot more
enjoyed his life as a dog and a Malamute, and I enjoyed life as
research before you even think of getting a puppy. If you
a Malamute companion.
find adult Malamutes easy to handle, you are in for a bit of
The resolution to Omaha's problems taught me more about
a giggle with your new Malamute puppy.
dogs than I had ever learned during my veterinary education or
Page 2.4
Basic Puppy Training
Your new pup has arrived and the household is all excited. It is
important before the pup arrives to establish the ground rules
with the family. Obviously house rules and manners for the pup
need to be defined i.e. Is the pup allowed in the house, if so
which rooms, who will feed and oversee training etc. You must
have uniform rules so that consistency is maintained and the
pup does not become confused. After the pup has the general
rules in its mind you can start with the basic retrieving training.
Keep it short and simple.
Now the fun begins. We must not do any formal training with
our pup. All training should be done in a playful manner. Most
pups love to jump on you and bite your ears, take advantage of
this time and bond with him and slip a little training in.
Lead training
t is important for puppies to
start learning household rules
and basic etiquette from the
moment they come home.
Having said that, it is even
more important that the dog is
raised
in
a
positive
environment where it obeys out
of a desire to please you rather
than out of fear. A fearful dog
will not be nearly as pleasant a
dog, and will not learn as much or as quickly as one that's
treated as a member of the family from the start, that includes a
measure of discipline, understanding and love.
It is important that the pup not associate any nasty
experiences with you. The simplest way to lead train the
puppy is to let the pup do the work. Attach a very light lead
to the pups fixed collar and let it drag it around for a while
under supervision, never leave the lead on when the pup is
left alone in case it gets caught and he chokes. Pup will
probably chew on it for a while and step on it and trip over a
few times. But after a couple of sessions of about an hour he
will pretty much ignore it. Do 1 or 2 sessions a day of this for
about 3 days before you try to lead the pup anywhere.
Initially make sure the pup is going in the direction you want.
Have the pup on his lead and use a toy in your free hand to
get his attention to stop him trying to move away and hence
dragging against the lead. It’s easier to avoid the problem
than fix it, associate his early lead experiences with pleasant
things and all should go well.
Toilet training
Leave it!
The building blocks
Toilet training should not be difficult. This trick is not in
punishing the accidents but preventing them from occurring.
Puppies need to go out after eating and playing and
immediately upon waking.
They should be taken out
immediately after these events. They should also be taken out
every 20 or 30 minutes that they are in the house. This should
ensure that the pup is given plenty of opportunities to perform in
the required area and reduce the chances of accidents
occurring in the house. When the pup is in the desired area
encourage it to perform by using a simple word in a gentle tone.
When it performs make sure you tell it what a clever puppy it is,
even if you have had to wait 10 minutes in the rain. Don't just
put the dog outside and hope for the best, it will most likely hang
around the back door and wait to be let back in. Should an
accident occur in the house, do NOT "rub the dogs nose in
it", hit the dog (with a newspaper or anything else), or
reprimand the pup harshly. Putting the dog out with a few
quiet disapproving words will help to let it know that the action
was unpopular, the isolation (which doesn't have to last long)
will reinforce the words. If the dog had an accident in the house
it means that you didn't take it out often enough. Be more
observant and the training will take care of itself, pups will
naturally prefer to go to the toilet outside.
Sitting for food
Whenever you are feeding the pup, make sure that it sits before
eating. This is just a quick way to teach the dog a little selfrestraint and respect for people. With very young pups raise a
piece of food quickly up past their noses above the level they
can reach and say "sit" in a commanding but not threatening
tone. This will tend to raise their head, and the bottom will
hopefully fall to the floor. As soon as this occurs (don't make
pups wait) praise the dog, release it with a command like "OK"
and put the bowl down. As the pup gets older start to wait a bit
before praising and eventually get the dog to stay while the bowl
is placed on the floor.
Page 2.5
This is essential as an early puppy lesson. How many times
has the puppy picked up something he shouldn't have? It's
much easier to teach the dog to "leave it" than chase him
and make it a game in his eyes, and most probably damage
the item as well. Go for the "softly, softly" approach. There is
no need to be excessively harsh with your treatment of the
pup to teach "leave it", or grab things roughly from him.
Ensure that the pup always has a number of his playthings
available to reduce the chances of looking for forbidden
items as toys, these items should be as varied as possible,
things that roll, squeak, are soft or hard, rattle etc. If the pup
should grab something that is not his do NOT reprimand
him, or grab it from his mouth. Quickly pick up one of his
toys and try to make a swap. Make sure the item you are
holding seems really inviting. Most of the time the pup will
drop what he's got and grab your item. Remember that pups
need to learn and explore, if you have items of value around
keep them away from the puppy. Young pups can't be
expected to learn all the rules of etiquette instantly, any more
than young children can. There is a period when they are
learning the rules, and you must be patient and vigilant
during that time. It's no more his fault for picking up
something you left lying around than it is when he has an
accident because you forgot to take him outside.
Don't jump
The pup should be encouraged to keep all four feet on the
ground, not only to protect people, but also to protect the
growing bone structure from too much stress. This is easily
achieved by crouching down when greeting the pup so there
is no need for him to jump. Keep you hands low to
encourage the pup to remain at that level.
Survival Characteristics of the Alaskan Malamute
The Alaskan Malamute’s survival characteristics are those
characteristics of the breed which enable him to function in the
harsh arctic environment. The real “standard” for the Alaskan
Malamute was not written by man, but by extreme
temperatures, wind, snow, ice, rain, and sleet, long hours of
daylight, long hours of darkness, swarms of insects in summer
and a scarcity of food.
Food, or the lack of it, was probably the single most important
influence on the evolution of the Malamute. Food provides
calories. Calories provide energy for the dog to work and
calories provide heat. Therefore the breed developed a very
efficient metabolism, as the dog who could maintain himself on
the least amount of food would survive to reproduce. Any
characteristic which would help to retain the heat of the body
would reduce the number of calories needed. And so it was
that in this survival of the fittest environment everything from
the tip of his nose to his beautiful plumed tail had a function.
As breeders of the Alaskan Malamute it is our duty to maintain
these characteristics even if they are no longer necessary in
our environment today. The A.K.C. (American Kennel Council)
standard for the breed describes most of the characteristics
but it dose not tell their function.
As an example, the Standard simply says “nose black”. The
ranger in charge of the dog teams at Mount Denali in Alaska
stressed the importance of the dark nose. She said that light
pigment would sunburn in the long hours of sunlight in the
summer. The swarms of insects common in Alaska also were
more attracted to the light pigment and these dogs needed
continuous treatment to prevent infection. She would not keep
a dog with a light pigment unless exceptional in other aspects.
But what about the “snow nose” so commonly found in all
arctic breeds? This is the nose that is black in summer but in
winter a streak of lighter colour develops down the middle of
the nose. Since this phenomenon occurs in all northern
breeds there must be a reason for it. My theory is this:Sunlight is a rich source of vitamin D and it is absorbed more
readily through pink skin than black. In the arctic where
sunlight is so scarce in winter, the lighter skin on the nose
would allow more absorption of vitamin D. During the summer
the nose turns dark as sunlight is plentiful to prevent sunburn
and repel insects as previously discussed. Since this is only a
theory, I’d appreciate you comments. However, if this theory is
true, then the snownose should not be faulted.
Bite: The Standard says, upper and lower jaws broad with
large teeth, front teeth meeting with a scissors grip but never
overshot or undershot. The dogs were thrown big hunks of
frozen meat and fish. Strong jaws and big teeth that meshed
properly were essential in order to eat this kind of diet. Level
bites aren’t mentioned in the Standard. A dog with a level bite
would very likely survive but the teeth would wear down.
Neither is the “open bite” mentioned. An open bite is when the
teeth or the jaws are misaligned so that the teeth cannot come
together properly. In essence this dog cannot close his mouth.
The dog could not tear and chew frozen food effectively. A
bitch with an open bite could not cut the umbilical cord on her
pups so the pups would die. Would these dogs have survived
in their natural arctic environment? I doubt it. Therefore
should they be considered show and breeding stock today?
the adjectives I’ve capitalised as these are important
consideration. The skull should have no sharp angles for snow
or moisture to collect and freeze. Look at pictures of other
arctic animals. Note the similarity of shape. All are various
types of wedges. There is almost no stop on any of them, no
sharp angles or pockets to hold moisture.
Our Standard calls for no stop, “the topline of the skull and the
topline of the muzzle showing but little break downward from a
straight line as they join”. Actually, what appears to be a stop
is really the fatty pads above the eyes which also form the
“slight furrow between the eyes” as described in the Standard.
The Malamute should have a thick, almost puffy layer of fat
both above and below the eye for several reasons.
1. When working, the act of shaking the head or even blinking
the eyes will break away the frost, ice or snow collecting
around the eye by the jelly like movement of this fat.
2. This fat also works like a sun shade in that it can droop
over the eye with the lid slightly lowered and protect the
eye from glare.
3. The third and perhaps most important is that the eye is
protected by this layer of fat which absorbs the body heat
and maintains a stable temperature. Malamutes also have
eyelashes and these protect the eye from flying ice
particles, etc.
Eyes: The almond shape and oblique set of the eye is
determined by the shape of the head. The more stop the
rounder the eye can be. Also the amount of the fatty pads
about the eye will alter the appearance of the eye. A round or
protruding eye is more susceptible to injury and snow
blindness.
Ears: Our Standard precisely describes the correct placement
of the ears. This set allows for a correct cranium and occiput.
The occiput should be hardly visible at all due to the covering
of the skull. This cranium covering is very important to provide
a moving tissue to break away ice and snow from the eye and
ear area and to cover the vital part of the skull with sufficient
fat and tissue to keep cold and wet conditions from causing
visual and hearing difficulties. The proper set also allows the
dog to fold his ears together and lay them back against the
skull to keep out snow and cold and protect the inner organs.
It allows him to rotate the ear almost 180 degrees so that he
can catch the slightest sound of cracking ice or a command
from the driver of the team. The ears should be small and
thick and heavily furred to minimise heat loss.
One of the differences I noticed in the Arctic wolves as
compared to our Timber wolves was the difference in size as
well as the thickness of the fur, particularly on the inside of the
ear. Any tendency of the ears to flop or crease would cut down
Lips: Close fitting. The exposed skin of the drooping lip is
going to have more heat loss and a greater chance of freezing.
Now look at the description of the SKULL. The skull should be
broad between the ears, GRADUALLY narrowing to eyes,
MODERATELY ROUNDED between ears, FLATTENING on
top as it approaches the eyes, ROUNDING OFF to cheeks,
which should be MODERATELY FLAT. Make special notes of
Page 2.6
blood circulation resulting in an increased chance of freezing.
Neck: Not only is the neck of the Malamute strong and
moderately arched, but it must be of sufficient length to allow
the dog to reach down and scoop up snow as he is working
without breaking stride. The neck should accommodate a
prominent dewlap. This is the mass of fatty tissue and skin
hanging from the front of the neck. This fatty layer forms a
blanket on the windpipe so that the air is warmed rapidly
before it reaches the lungs. And when the dog is in repose this
blanket of fat drapes across the thoracic cavity insulating the
vital organs from the cold.
Feet: Good feet are essential. Actually, the dog is only as
good as his feet. If his feet give out, he is worthless. Our
Standard gives a pretty good description of the foot, but
unfortunately very few judges even bother to pick up the foot to
check for the thickness and toughness of the pads and the
protective hair between the toes. This hair must be bristly in
texture. Ice balls will form on long or soft hair. Dewclaws on
the hind feet should be removed but I’ve seen the dogs use
their front dewclaws. When the food gets frozen in the dish,
I’ve seen them lay down with the dish between the front paws,
dewclaws hooked over the sides of the dish to hold it while
they scrape the frozen food out with their teeth. I’ve seen them
use the same procedure on large bones. Have you noticed the
ability the dogs have to extend their toenails when on slippery
surfaces. They use them almost like a cat.
Coat:
The double coat is the most obvious survival
characteristic of the breed. The thick, coarse guard coat acts
as a water repellent covering for the insulating undercoat.
Since loss of body heat is so critical to survival, the proper coat
is essential. Because Wisconsin weather is so variable, I’ve
had a chance to observe how the different kinds of coats
tolerate different kinds of weather conditions. Dogs with a long
soft coat can do well in the cold temperatures, wind and dry
snow, but wet and sleet cause ice balls to form on the long
hairs. When working the ice pulls the balls out, they will tear
the coat right out and without shelter the moisture laden coat
will freeze. The dog with a short guard coat can’t tolerate the
wind and severe cold as well. They require more food to
maintain body weight and when the severe temperatures
continue for several weeks, I find fur worn off and sores
developing from constantly curling up in the dog houses. The
dog with the thick, coarse guard coat and dense oily undercoat
seems oblivious to the cold, wind, snow, sleet or rain. He is
ready to work or play and sleep out in all kinds of weather.
You can almost tell the windchill factor by which dogs are using
the dog house and which are sleeping out.
Tail: The tail of the Malamute is much more than just a
beautiful accessory. It is used as an insulator and as a means
of communication. First, let’s consider the insulator factor.
When the weather is warm, the Malamute stretches out with
paws extended exposing stomach area, head and neck to the
air to create his own air conditioning. On moderate days the
tail is used to cover the lightly haired part of the legs and the
feet of the rear legs with the dewlap providing a cover for the
front. Then as the weather becomes colder, he curls tighter
and tighter to protect the nose, eyes and feet. The front feet
are usually tucked under, the pads up and the rear legs are
turned on the side with the tail covering the nose and legs. In
severe weather he will tuck his nose under the haunch
protecting the nose and eyes. The tail is tucked between the
rear legs making a limited breathing hole so that the air about
the face is warmed by the body heat and warm breath. In this
position the snow can fall completely covering the dog,
becoming his own individual igloo. Therefore from a survival
standpoint the tail is of great importance. A snap tail, a short
tail, or a poorly furred tail would all be serious faults perhaps
even resulting in death in severe arctic conditions.
The tail is also used to communicate. Of course we are all
aware of the happy wagging tail of a friendly Malamute and the
tail tucked between the legs in fear. The tail will also be tucked
in a very submissive dog greeting a more dominant animal or
person. The tail held stiffly at a 45 degree angle to the
horizontal will be seen on an aggressive dog challenging
another. Once you know your dogs you can tell how hard each
one is working or what kind of mood he is in by the position of
his tail.
Temperament: The Malamute temperament has been shaped
by his environment and his work. His survival instincts are
very strong. Don’t expect to teach you dog not to steal food
from you or other dogs. His instincts tell him that the dog who
stole food, even if beaten for it, was the one who lived to
perpetuate the breed. The dog who refused to cross unsafe
ice no matter how much beaten, is also the one who lived. So,
independence and stubbornness are two more of their survival
characteristics.
The culture of the Eskimo also shaped the dog’s temperament.
The Eskimos were nomads so Malamutes have no territorial
instincts except for their own food and space. Home is
wherever he is staked for the night. Sharing was the Eskimo
way of life. No one was ever refused food, shelter or even the
company of one’s wife. Therefore, the dogs were never used
to protect anything.
During World War II the army tried to train Malamutes for
guard work. First it took a great deal more aggravation to get
Mals to attack. And when they finally did attack, they went
straight for the throat and couldn’t be called off. The breed
proved to be totally unsuited for this kind of work. This is not
surprising as our Standard specifically states he is not a one
man dog.
The Malamute has a very strong pack instinct. Because he
feels this need to establish his order in the pack, he frequently
shows aggression toward other dogs. And if the dog is not
properly disciplined he will eventually try to include human
family members in his pack. It is the owner’s inability to
understand and cope with this strong pack instinct that causes
most of the temperament problems in the breed.
The Malamute doesn’t belong in every household. So it is our
duty as breeders to screen our puppy buyers and to educate
them. With plenty of socialisation and proper and consistent
training the Malamute can be a perfect pet for the right family.
However, we must never forget that his original function was to
be a sledge dog for heavy freighting in a harsh arctic
environment and it is our duty to maintain every one of these
survival characteristics, even if they do not readily adapt to our
environment.
Note from the author: A good deal of information in this article
was from my correspondence with Penny Devaney during the
A.M.C.A. Standard study committee of 1973.
Page 2.7
Nancy Russell, Sussex. Wisconsin USA
A History of the Alaskan Malamute
For as long as time has existed, mankind has always depended
on the humble dog for his existence and none more so than the
tough Eskimo tribes of the Arctic regions.
The Eskimos occupied nearly all the Arctic coast line and
across to Greenland. They are a race of people that have
different characteristics than other North Americans. They
have small hands and feet, strong jaws and teeth, a narrow
bridge to their nose and can exist in conditions that are fatal to
others.
They moved across from the Arctic regions to
Greenland at about the same time as the Vikings, between 400
to 500 B.C. They were a race of people that depended on an
all meat diet as only a few summer lichens were to be found in
the hard ice country they inhabited. The dog they depended on
was the so called 'Spitz' or Arctic type and it is believed to be
representative of the oldest domesticated dog.
As time moved on, and the dogs with it, a tribe of Eskimos
known as the Mahlemiut settled in Alaska around the area of
Kotzebue Sound, where the great rivers Kobuk and Noatak
met. This particular tribe were less nomadic than many others
and established trading centres where they dealt in furs and
goods from the Asiatic regions, which after all was only a
narrow stretch of water away. Among other things they traded
was the dog they bred, a heavy compact animal which was a
wonderful puller, or 'freighting' dog. The sleds, upon which
humans were dependent for the transport of goods and
themselves, were pulled by man, woman, child and dog. Like
all Arctic breeds this Eskimo dog from the region had an ability
to work in impossible conditions and on near starvation diets. It
was the forerunner of the dog that is now know as the Alaskan
Malamute.
White man did not make an appearance in the massive
expanse of the Arctic until the 1700's and the dog that had
always given unswerving service to the Eskimos was to play an
equally strong role in the exploration of the region. The whites
tried all angles of approach to the Arctic region but in 1728 the
Russian, Vitus Bering, passed through the straight that was
later to take his name, from Siberia to Alaska. Here, on the
south Coast of Alaska the Russians were to set up trading
stations.
For thousands of years the Eskimos were to keep their
freighting dogs as pure as their society could manage, but the
discovery of gold in the Klondike in 1896 meant that the
Mahlemiuts could not meet the demand for dogs and cross
breeding began. There was an introduction of a number of
breeds, including the St. Bernard and all were crossed with the
Malamute and other Arctic dogs. It should be remembered that
the dog, now known as the Siberian Husky, and a native dog
bred by Indians in the more Southern regions, also plied their
way across this mighty region in the service of mankind. High
prices were paid for these dogs such was their demand and
many of these dogs rode on the fame of the pure bred.
But the Arctic dog had thousands of years to establish itself
and like the Arab in the horse world, the Spitz is very dominant
and it was noted that after several generations the outside
breeds lost influence. There was also the influence of isolation
on communities and consequently there were variations in the
breeding of the Arctic dog, which accounts for the variations
that are found in the breed today, which is not an indication of
impure breeding or a departure from type.
As with the Eskimo, the dog was to become the animal upon
which white man could depend and like other working dogs, tall
tales and true grew up around them. To many prospectors the
dog bred by the Eskimos was referred to as a 'Malamut' and a
writer of the day referred to it as being as tall as a Scotch Collie
with a short thick neck, a sharp muzzle, oblique eyes, short
pointed ears and having dense thick hair and being wolf like in
appearance.
Intensive research by breeders in later years dismissed the
theory that the Malamute was crossed with the wolf as there
was no evidence to be found in Eskimo history or mythology to
indicate that this was so. What led to the theory expounded by
By Di Gatehouse
the early Whites was probably the grey colour of some of the
Malamutes.
The Malamute was also found to be very loving to humans,
was never known to bite but was jealous of other dogs and an
incorrigible fighter. It had awesome power in its jaws and loved
to chew, not only tough old meat and bones, but equipment if
the opportunity presented.
Many an explorer had time on their hands in the region when
they found themselves snowed in or marooned by ice. It gave
them plenty of time to observe the behaviour and pecking order
of their dog packs, which quite frankly is not that much different
to a pack of humans on a working sight! Any dog that moved
outside the norm was picked on and dealt with by the others
and had to worm its way back into favour with the rest of the
pack. Friendships developed between dogs in which the
stronger tended to protect the weaker one, even after it had
died and was looking like a tasty morsel for the rest of the
pack. A dog suspected of not doing its fair share of work was
also picked on by the rest. And of course there was the
inevitable 'top dog' in the pack. Men found they also had to
observe and fit in with this pack routine, because often only
small things upset the routine in the camp. For example if a
small number of dogs were separated to go off for other duties,
their return sparked a fight, probably because these dogs were
suspected of slacking off somewhere else or receiving special
privileges. It all sounds so familiar, the only thing missing, the
Union fees!
It goes without saying, while these dogs could work on next to
nothing, they loved their tucker and would eat anything to
survive, but it was said that an Eskimo that ate his dogs was a
dead Eskimo because his dogs were his means to survival.
Captain Ross (later Rear Admiral Sir John) is shown
meeting Eskimos on his first trip to the Arctic in 1818. Note
the harness on the dogs.
While the Eskimos, Indians and Whites, that made the vast
white Arctic area their home, took the dog as part of their way
of life for granted for many years, it was not until the 1920's that
the rest of the Northern American continent was given the
opportunity to discover the virtues of this brilliant dog.
Page 2.8
Harper's Bazar for June 12, 1882, depicts the struggle of men and
dogs to save equipment from the sinking cruiser Jeannette.
In 1920 a famous sled driver and breeder of freight dogs,
Arthur T. Walden, gave an exhibition at a Winter Carnival in
New Hampshire. His team was led by a dog called Chinook
who had become a legend in his own country. His name still
appears among Malamutes today. Walden and his team
captured the imagination of organisers and in 1922 the first big
international race between dog teams was organised. The
race, staged over 120 miles, was to see the Malamute and
Siberian Husky run their way of life into the hearts of
'Southerners'.
Sledge racing became a very popular sport both in the U.S.A.
and Canada, and many legends came out of it. One was
Elizabeth Richer, a hotel owner who raced and bred Siberian
Huskies, and who was instrumental in getting the Husky
recognised and registered by the American Kennel Club. The
other was Eva Seeley who Walden introduced to sled racing.
At the time Walden was busy raising teams of dogs to go with
the American Expedition to Antarctica. Walden's offsider,
Scotty Allen, a man who had also earned a great reputation as
a horse and dog handler, called Eva over to Walden's Kennels
to see a dog he considered to be a true Alaskan freighter. Eva
found a big strong dog with a very lovable nature. While she
could not have him, she named him Rowdy of Nome. Rowdy
went off with Admiral Byrd's expedition and Eva set off in
search of dogs his type. She did not have many of the same
type in her own kennel but found one at sled racer Leonhard
Seppalas, who had opted for an all Husky team. She also
managed to obtain a dog and bitch, Yukon Jad and Besse.
Their offspring were recognised as the first 'Alaskan Malamute'
puppies.
Knowing that they could breed uniform puppies, Eva and her
husband Milton set about to find out all they could about the
breed, their enquiries and travels taking them to the North East
of Canada, to Alaska and through the Yukon Territory. They
found many characters, like Frank Gough, a man not so
interested in registration and kennel clubs, but devoted to
breeding a large uniform freighting dog. In Alaska they found
many more including Rev. Father Hubbard, a man known as
the Glacier Priest. He moved to and from across his huge
white Parish behind teams of Malamutes. A coast guard
captain who was cruising the Pacific Arctic seas picked up a
big dog called St. Lawrence Mukluk which he gave to the
Seeleys. Mukluk was a dog of considerable strength, working
ability and intelligence. He was mated to a good bitch of the
Seeleys and seven uniform greys were produced, and they
were called Admiral Byrd Grays. Others of this type were
found and after seven years the Seeleys felt that the breed
should be recognised by the American Kennel Club, even
though some had been out in the show ring beforehand. The
breed got full recognition in 1935 and the Alaskan Malamute
Club was formed in 1937.
The Seeley's Kennel, Kotzebue, and dogs from Walden's
Chinook Kennels, which later he gave to the Seeleys, made up
a large part of the early registrations but then the Malamutes
increased in number and popularity in the U.S.A. and Canada.
Apart from their obvious use as sled dogs at home, they were
bred in great numbers for further Expeditions and for the Army,
where they were used as freighters and pack dogs. The
Expeditions and World War II saw the loss of Malamutes, and
other breeds, in great numbers. However the postwar years
also saw a spread in popularity and ownership as many
handlers kept their dogs and others bought them up from Army
surplus.
Today the Malamute is found as a pet, show dog or sporting
dog, and no doubt still at work in its natural environment,
although metal machines have taken over a lot of the work,
even if they prove highly unsuccessful at times.
But a good Malamute is a strong Malamute and its gait is very
important, and best seen when it is doing what it was originally
bred to do, pull. The back legs should be powerfully muscled
and should move in line with the front legs. The loins of the
dog should also be well muscled and not so short it interferes
with the easy and rhythmic movement. There should be a
powerful drive in the hindquarters and no weakness in the
behind or back of a Malamute. It should have a good reach
with its front legs and of course, move straight.
What also sets a Malamute apart from other members of the
canine species is its personality. In the book, 'The New
Complete Alaskan Malamute' authors Maxwell Riddle and Beth
J. Harris say, "What then is the real personality of the Alaskan
Malamute: scoundrel or canine saint?" They conclude that the
answer lies somewhere between. It should be borne in mind
that the Malamute considers it has no peers because it can pull
heavier weights for greater distances at greater speeds and on
the emptiest stomach than anyone else.
So here you have 'top dog' who may be a bit aloof when
spoken to. They are great hunters and fishermen, some being
known to dive under water, they have a high l.Q. and have
been known to be champs at obedience, while others have
brought nothing but tears of frustration to their owners and
instructors.
While one or two may pick at food, they are basic gluttons and
food thieves and like all young dogs love to chew anything they
can get their jaws around. They are not watch-dogs but will
'alert' danger rather than tackle it - a sort of "I've told you there
is a burglar - you get it" approach. They also have the
reputation of loving little people and will give an adult the flick
pass if something younger is around. They make good knock
around dogs for kids, particularly if play-time involves them.
But basically they are a pack dog and best to learn all about life
and establish confidence in those surrounds. The mistake of
moving them out of a litter or out of a numbers situation too
soon can make it difficult for dog and owner alike.
But their crowning glory is their devotion and loyalty to man,
and while some people may think of them as being wolfy and
ferocious, which they are not, they love nothing more than
being loved. The Alaskan Malamute is now found all over the
world, where it has been able to adapt to all sorts of climatic
conditions and apart from pets, they are used for a variety of
things from farm work to back packing - they make ideal
companions who never shirk at carrying their own provisions sled pulling, obedience and pulling competitions, search and
rescue work, looking cute and beautiful on the show bench,
lounging on the best couch in the upstairs apartment to baby
sitting. But it is wise to remember that a Malamute can be
either a born comic or king pin so do not take the book "How to
Train a Dog" in hand and expect the dog to read it! Use a lot of
dog sense because you have a thinker.
The Malamute is like a cat in its obsession with its own
cleanliness and will clean and preen in much the same way.
Despite its long coat it is also an odourless dog but it does
shed that coat and elbow work with the comb is necessary.
Reprinted from “Dog Showbiz”, February, 1993
Page 2.9
Section 3: Health & Nutrition
Health Problems in the Alaskan Malamute
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Chondrodysplasia (dwarfism) ‐ HEREDITARY Epilepsy ‐ MAY BE HEREDITARY Gastric Dilation and Torsion Complex (bloat) 
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Day Blindness ‐ HEREDITARY Hip Dysplasia ‐ HEREDITARY / ENVIRONMENTAL Hypothyroidism ‐ MAY BE HEREDITARY Hip Dysplasia Affects bone in the hip ball and socket. The mode of inheritance is polygenic (controlled by a number of genes) and can skip several generations without showing up. Environmental factors also influence the soundness of the hip joint. Controlled breeding programs offer the only means by which the incidence can be reduced. Only dogs with good hips as determined by hip x‐ray should be bred from, however, pups from x‐ray cleared parents can still be affected, although the likelihood is reduced. Relief can be provided to affected dogs by medication or surgery. Prospective buyers should make certain both parents of the pup have been x‐rayed and passed for hip dysplasia before choosing a pup. Chondrodysplasia (Dwarfism) Affects bone development and growth. The mode of inheritance is thought to be simple autosomal recessive, meaning that both parents of an affected animal must carry the gene, but may not be affected. The symptoms are shortened, deformed front legs with a downhill posture. Diagnosis by radiographic examination is fairly reliable before the age of three months. Pedigrees can be submitted to the AMCA’s Chondrodysplasia Certification Committee or AMCV’s Australian Chondrodysplasia Certification Scheme for analysis and determination of the probability of that dog carrying the gene for Chondrodysplasia. Day Blindness Also known as Cone Degeneration. Vision in bright light is affected. Mode of inheritance is simple autosomal recessive, meaning that both parents of an affected animal must carry the gene, but may not be affected. Affected pups may appear clumsy in bright light, stumbling over obstacles, feeling their way with their nose and paws and are unable to catch an object thrown to them. These symptoms disappear in dim light. Suspected cases should be checked by a veterinarian and can be confirmed by Electroretinograph (ERG). Affected dogs that have learnt their way around their home can lead a restricted but happy life ‐ they must be kept on lead in strange environments. Hypothyroidism A hormonal disorder arising from deficient production of metabolic hormones by the Thyroid Gland. The most common sign is lethargy, but symptoms may also include dry, coarse and sparse coat and obesity. Diagnosis is made by a blood test. Successful treatment of this condition requires an adequate level of hormone to be given each day to compensate for the deficiency in secretion. Epilepsy A functional disorder of the brain characterised by symptoms related to the nervous system including convulsions, hysteria and unusual behaviour patterns. Epilepsy can be due to parasites, exposure to toxic chemicals or hereditary factors. The clinical signs may include the dog convulsing, with or without loss of consciousness, and may be followed by drowsiness and disorientation for several minutes after the attack. Dogs that have suffered an attack will appear very tired afterward and will need to be rested. Medication can be dispensed during stressful times to help prevent an attack. Dogs with a history of epilepsy should not be bred, and owners of related animals should be notified. Gastric Torsion & Dilatation (Bloat) This condition can occur in any breed of dog at any age, but is more prevalent amongst large, deep‐chested breeds such as the Alaskan Malamute. Bloat results from the dog’s inability to pass food through the stomach into the lower intestines and, in cases of torsion (twisting) of the stomach, inability to vomit. The symptoms appear shortly after the dog has eaten and may include distension of the abdomen, restlessness, excessive salivation, unproductive attempts to vomit and reluctance to move or lie down. The situation worsens rapidly with the dog going into shock, indicated by pale mucous membranes, rapid heartbeat and weak pulse. Death is rapid and painful. Suspected cases must be taken immediately to a veterinarian for urgent treatment. Studies have indicated that overeating, swallowing large amounts of air whilst eating (gulping) and exercising shortly before or after eating may predispose a dog to this condition. Cataracts Cataracts are defined as an opacity or loss of transparency of the lens of the eye. They are not uncommon in Alaskan Malamutes, though their true prevalence is unknown. Small, non‐progressive cataracts will not interfere with vision, but complete cataracts (covering the entire lens) may result in blindness. Many cataracts are genetically inherited, although the specific inheritance pattern for cataracts in the malamute has not been established. Non‐hereditary cataracts also occur, resulting from other diseases, trauma, toxicity, metabolic disturbances, or aging. With their acute sense of smell and hearing, most dogs quickly learn to compensate for vision loss. Some cataracts can be seen with the naked eye, but most require special equipment for detection. Your veterinarian will use an ophthalmoscope to determine the presence and severity of cataracts. Treatment is nearly always conservative, particularly given that most cataracts do not affect the dog's quality of life and are not painful. Cataracts can be removed surgically, but surgery is not advised if the degree of visual impairment is minimal. Breeders must assume cataracts are inherited unless another cause can be identified ‐ dogs with inherited cataracts should not be used for breeding. Responsible breeders will screen their dog's eyes for cataracts and other ocular disorders. When inquiring about purchasing a puppy, ask the breeder for evidence of screening of both parents within one year of the date of the breeding. References: “The New Complete Alaskan Malamute”, M Riddle & B J Harris “Veterinary Notes for Dog Owners”, Ed. T Turner DVM “Successful Dog Breeding”, C Walkowicz & B Wilcox DVM “Everydog: A Complete Book of Dog Care”, R Blogg and E Allan, Methuen Australia, 1983. Alaskan Malamute Health website at www.malamutehealth.org “Cataracts”, Karyn Colman, B.Vet.Med., MRCVS Page 3.1
AMCV Hip Dysplasia Control Program
1. The Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria, Inc. (referred to as the
Club or AMCV) will only accept hip X-ray results where the X-rays
have been graded under the AVA (Australian Veterinary
Association) Hip Dysplasia (HD) Scheme or by the PennHIP
method by approved readers.
2. Dogs must be at least 12 months of age, and be identified in
accordance with this program before being X-rayed for Hip
Dysplasia. (see item 6), or at least 6 months of age for PennHIP
evaluation.
3. The program is open to all pedigreed Alaskan Malamutes,
whether their owners are members of the AMCV or not, and
under the same conditions, and upon payment of the prescribed
fee.
4. The AMCV has designated a maximum score of 7 on either hip
as being acceptable for breeding, i.e. a maximum score from 0 to
7,
or above the median by the PennHIP method:
5. (a) Dogs which have had their hips graded overseas or by the
PennHIP method will be accepted by AMCV only if the X-ray
results are submitted to the Club.
(b) Dogs which have been X-rayed prior to the commencement
of this program may be accepted under this program if
application is made to the AMCV and the results are
acceptable to the VCA’s HDC.
(c) If there should be any question about the acceptability or
otherwise of any HD result, the VCA HDC will make the final
decision.
6. (a) AT OR BEFORE THE TIME OF X-RAYS BEING TAKEN,
DOGS MUST BE POSITIVELY IDENTIFIED BY EITHER
TATTOO OR MICROCHIP, and if microchipped the number
should be recorded on the X-ray. If by tattoo, owners should
apply to the AMCV HDO (Hip Dysplasia Officer) for
allocation of a tattoo number which will be tattooed high on
the left inner thigh of the dog, and this number will be
included on the HD X-ray application form. Only dogs which
have been correctly identified at the time of X-ray will be
accepted by the Club, and will be included in the VCA suffix
scheme.
(b) The allocated Tattoo Number will consist of three prefix
letters for each Member and three numerals indicating the
number of each individual dog with that prefix, e.g. AMC004.
7. The AMCV will, if requested by an owner, apply to the VCA for
the suffix “[A]” to be added to the registered name of any Alaskan
Malamute owned by them if the requirements of this policy are
fulfilled and the dog passes the standard set.
8. The AMCV will actively encourage owners to have every Alaskan
Malamute X-rayed and graded for HD, and the results submitted
to the Club, before breeding from it.
9. The AMCV will actively encourage owners to breed for better
hips. Ie. dogs with a high pass score should be bred to dogs with
low pass scores.
10. The AMCV will strongly discourage the breeding together of 2
dogs with high pass scores. Failed dogs should not be bred
from, i.e higher than seven on either hip.
11. For advertising or publication of a dog in any AMCV literature the
club must publish the hip status by stating either (a) Pass, (b) No
hip score provided or (c) Dog too young.
12. A Health Officer shall be elected by the Members, and will be
responsible for the implementation and management of the
AMCV Hip Dysplasia Control program.
13. The Club will actively support any breeder who participates in the
control program, yet, from parents both passed for breeding, still
produces a puppy that scores higher than 7 on either hip (i.e. fails
the hip X-ray). The Club may, via the HDO, assist by providing
information about Hip Dysplasia, writing letters, and acting as a
liaison between the owner of the dog, the breeder, and the VCA
or other controlling interstate body, if the need arises.
14. The Club will actively support any person who owns an Alaskan
Malamute who fails a hip X-ray, if the owner fails to obtain
satisfaction from the breeder. The Club may, via the Health
Officer, assist by writing letters, and acting as a liaison between
the owner, the breeder, and the VCA or other controlling
interstate body.
15. All hip passes will be published when recorded, and a list of
passes will be made available to AMCV Members.
16. An annual report on the program will be prepared and forwarded
to the VCA.
17. This program will come into effect on the first day of October,
1992. As from that date, all Alaskan Malamutes must comply
with the requirements of this program before X-ray results will be
accepted, and all dogs which had been previously accepted
under the old AMCV HD Scheme will be included in the VCA
suffix application.
18. For a litter to be eligible for advertising on the puppy register:
(a) Both parents of the litter must have been hip X-rayed and
passed for breeding, and hip scores for both parents must be
submitted with the application to the puppy registrar.
(b) The litter must comply with all other health testing in
compliance with the AMCV Health Policy and Puppy Register
guidelines.
(c) The breeder must be a current member of the AMCV and
have been a member for at least the past 6 months.
(d) Advertisements for litters will not be accepted unless
advertised through the puppy register.
THE REASONS FOR A HIP DYSPLASIA SCHEME
Hip Dysplasia is a problem of medium and large breed dogs which
may produce hind limb lameness. Because of the poor correlation
between the severity of the clinical and radiological signs,
radiographic examination of the hips is the standard method of
assessment of a dog’s hip dysplasia status.
The OFA figures in 1986 showed that of the 4500 Alaskan Malamutes
examined, 70% had either excellent or good hips. There had only
been 25 dogs submitted to the BVA scheme up to June 1988 and
these had an average score of 17 with a range of 2 - 66.
The current situation regarding the hereditary nature of hip dysplasia
is that it has a polygenic mode of inheritance which contributes 20 50% of the factors involved in initiating the problem. Dr. Willis’s work
with the GSDL/BVA Hip Dysplasia Scheme suggests that there is
considerable benefit in running schemes providing club members are
willing to co-operate.
This means that everyone should participate and submit radiographs
of all dogs examined. It is just as important to have all the
radiographs of dogs with poor quality hips as it is those with good
quality hips if the scheme is to be of benefit to the breed as a whole.
The assessment of the hips will be made using a scoring scheme.
The scoring system was revised in 2000 with a score of 0 to 7 on
both hips being in the pass group and a score of 8 or greater on
either hip indicating failure.
Because of the poor correlation of the clinical and radiographic signs,
some owners of dogs that move well are going to be disappointed
when their dog’s hip radiograph is graded as a fail. Unfortunately
some dividing line has to be drawn if I am to give advice on those
dogs whose radiographic hip dysplasia status is appropriate for
breeding in the light of current knowledge. There should be no
variation in the way the hips are scored over a period of time but it is
certainly possible that the pass/fail line could vary in light of overall
standard of hips sent for assessment.
Owners of dogs that fall into the fail category by one or two points on
one hip might still consider using that dog for breeding if it is an ideal
example of the breed in all other aspects. After all, there is little point
in breeding from a dog with excellent hips that has poor construction
or uncertain temperament. However, if the choice is between dogs of
even construction and temperament, then it would be sensible to use
the dog with the best hips.
If members have problems in understanding the interpretation of the
hip radiographs, I would be pleased to try and explain their reports.
NEW AVA HIP DYSPLASIA SCHEME
Application forms for the new scheme are now available from the
National Office and State Offices.
Care should be taken to ensure that the details requested on the form
are completed accurately.
It should be noted that the radiographic examination must be
undertaken with the aid of a general anaesthetic. This is the
technique taught and required in all Australian veterinary schools and
as well as assisting accurate positioning, it will ensure the most
consistent repetitive results for the scoring system.
Any members with queries about the scheme should consult the
AMCV Health Officer.
Page 3.2
Updated 6 September, 2011
Nutrition for Dogs
A little bit of science, and a lot of common sense
A brief history of canine nutrition
When I first began to seriously investigate nutrition for dogs
and cats over 10 years ago, I was confronted with the
problem of where to begin. It is fair to say that the subject had
been given little consideration in scientific or veterinary
literature, prior to the development of commercial pet foods
some 50 years ago. Since then, it has become “big business”,
and there is a wealth of biased information available, to both
veterinarian, and dog owner. But what about prior to that?
How did people feed dogs before tinned and dry food became
available? What nutritional problems did they encounter?
Who advised them on how to feed their dogs?
insects, bark, soil, clay, decaying vegetable matter, animal
excretions, and more. Despite the immense variation, the one
common factor is that they are all consumed raw.
The dog’s entire digestive tract, from teeth and saliva, to
organs and intestines, digestive enzymes, microbial flora, and
ultimately the entire metabolic process to the cellular level,
has been finely tuned, over millions of years, to be able to
process, digest, and absorb the products of a raw food diet.
The breakdown process of the raw ingredients in the intestinal
tract is critical for normal assimilation of all the vitamins,
minerals, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, and other metabolic
factors essential for optimal growth and function.
The answers are all quite simple. Dogs were fed fresh meat,
bones, and left over table scraps. The nutritional problems
encountered were very few, and simple to correct (calcium
deficiency, rickets, hypervitaminosis A). Veterinary advice was
limited to suggesting additional calcium in the diet for growing
puppies. A majority of dogs were kept for specific purposes,
i.e. working dogs, guard dogs, hunting dog’s etc., and had
access to a wide range of different food sources via
scavenging on the job. Dogs were, in no way, as strictly
limited to the confines of the back yard, as they are today.
Some breeders and working dog trainers used various
supplements in their dog’s diets, like yeast, cod liver oil, raw
eggs and garlic, to improve their dogs’ fertility and
performance. But on the whole, homemade diets were basic,
uncomplicated, and perfectly adequate. The dogs of
yesteryear enjoyed long, active, healthy lives, with few
degenerative diseases.
When a dog (or dog pack) catches prey, there are welldefined eating patterns that emerge. Apart from the
hierarchical order in which the dogs are allowed to participate
in the feast, there is a systematic approach to consuming the
various parts of the prey. The abdominal cavity is opened
quickly, and the gut contents and organs (what we call offal)
are consumed first. The organs, like liver, kidneys, spleen etc,
are rich in vitamins, minerals, and trace elements. The gut
contents, including stomach, intestines and colon, are full of
semi digested plant and grain material. It is this “mush” of
plant matter that the dogs devour immediately, almost like a
prize to the hunter.
It was during the post-war era of the 1950’s and 60’s, when
processed foods began to gain popularity with people. Tinned
and dehydrated foods of all description began to infiltrate
grocery stores and fill the pantries of modern households.
And riding on the back of the success of the convenience era,
came the first processed foods for dogs.
What we have learned from this, is a simple understanding of
the basic ingredients in a dog’s natural diet. Apart from the
vast array of scavenged material a dog may eat, when
available, a diet of live prey is the ultimate in nutrition. This
consisting of pre-masticated (chewed), semi digested plant
material and grains, a serving of rich organ meats, and a
larger portion of muscle meat and bone.
It took nearly thirty years for the medical profession to realise
that this type of nutrition was detrimental to human health,
and begin to emphasise the importance of fresh food, fruit
and vegetables as part of a balanced diet. Unfortunately (for
dogs), the bulk of the veterinary profession is still yet to come
to terms with these same health issues, and begin
recommending fresh food (raw food) diets for dogs.
To fully understand the detrimental impact of commercial pet
foods on the general health of dogs, we must first understand
the basic principles of what dogs should eat. These answers
can be found by tracing the evolution of dogs, and
understanding how contemporary wild dogs eat.
The Truth about Dogs
The process of evolution is designed to “fine tune” every living
species to best survive and reproduce in its given
environment. Every structure of the living organism is affected
by this process, right down to the cellular level. The process
causes minute changes that accumulate over millions of
years, with the end result being an organism that is ready to
thrive, survive, and reproduce. Dogs are no exception. They
have been evolving for 40 million years (before human
intervention) existing on a natural diet of raw prey, vegetable
matter, fruits, nuts, insects, and all manner of scavenged
food. They are omnivores by definition, meaning they
consume both meat and plant based food sources. In fact,
they are the ultimate scavengers, able to exist on a purely
vegetarian diet, when necessary, and thriving on a meat
based diet, when available. They will eat almost anything to
stay alive, and have a cast iron constitution to reflect this. A
wild dogs diet can include up to sixty different ingredients in
one day, varying from live prey, carrion, grass, nuts, fruits,
The remainder of the carcass, comprising mainly muscle
meat and bones, is then consumed slowly, often over several
days if the prey is large. If there is an abundance of meat and
bone, dogs will bury some, to ensure a feed for themselves
later on.
So what does this mean with regard to dog nutrition? It is
certainly clear that dogs are best adapted to eating their food
raw, but does cooking a dog’s food really make that much
difference? The message became very clear when pet food
manufacturers first began making processed pet food.
Cooking creates deficiencies
The process of cooking food is unique to humans. We are the
only living species to have harnessed fire, and used it to
modify our natural food sources. Cooking is the oldest and
simplest form of preserving food. The process of heating
destroys the natural enzymes in food, and microbial content,
thus preventing the natural process of decay. Unfortunately, it
is not limited to just enzymes and microbes, it also destroys
natural vitamins, essential fatty acids, amino acids and
proteins, and renders many minerals unavailable for
absorption from the gut.
These problems became very evident in the early stages of
pet food manufacture. Severe, and sometimes fatal,
deficiencies were quickly identified. Deficiencies of Vitamins
A, D, E, B1, and several essential amino acids were
discovered in early tinned pet foods. Most of these were
overcome by adding large amounts of synthetic vitamins and
amino acids to the original ingredients, to overcome the levels
that were destroyed by the cooking process. Modern
processed dog foods have advanced a long way in nutritional
science, and have overcome many more problems along the
way. But there is still a range of subtle deficiencies that
cannot, and never will be, overcome in cooked pet foods.
Man has been domesticating animals for thousands of years,
for use as food, for transport, and as companions. Food
Page 3.3
animals have always held an important position, and animal
husbandry techniques (the care of animals for growth and
reproduction) have always placed supreme emphasis on
correct nutrition.
The basic understanding of how to feed an animal for
maximum growth, development and reproduction has come
from observing the animal in its natural state (in the wild), and
trying to reproduce the same environment in the domestic
situation (same types of feed, grasses, foliage etc). Due to
the enormous economic importance of cattle and sheep, there
has been intensive and ongoing research into nutrition for
these animals. We possess a total understanding of the
importance of soil types, mineral content, plant growth, and
ultimately the physiology of the cow or sheep, eating the
grass, and turning that into fleece, milk, or meat. In the
veterinary field we have identified a myriad of mineral
deficiencies, or toxicities, that affect health, and a vast array
of diseases that can be easily corrected using mineral
supplements and salt licks, or with simple dietary changes.
Much of the work in this area is actually a direct result of the
unnatural effects of domestication and modern farming
practices on domesticated animals. I may be exaggerating if I
said there had been 10% as much research on canine
nutrition, with very little information on the effects of long term
dietary deficiency. This may reflect a lower economic value
placed on dogs’ health, but it also reflects a lack of necessity
in the past to perform this type of research. The majority of
deficiency syndromes in dogs, that have been adequately
researched, are as a direct result of the commercial pet food
industry, and the nutritional problems they created when they
first began cooking pet food.
The major flaw in modern canine nutritional research is that it
has focused on the immediate effects of nutrition.
Deficiencies that create an obvious short term, readily
identifiable problem in health, have been extensively studied,
and corrected. But long term, subtle, non-life-threatening
deficiencies have not been investigated in much detail. The
effects over an animal’s life span, the altered absorptive
capabilities of older dogs, the accumulation of years of lowgrade deficiency, have not been addressed by nutritional
research. It is these types of deficiencies that are creating the
enormous “epidemic” of long-term degenerative diseases that
afflict modern dogs. Chronic skin diseases and allergies,
osteoarthritis, dental problems, autoimmune diseases, and
ultimately cancer, can all be linked to long term deficiency.
There are over 76 macro and micro minerals available in
natural raw foods. Modern nutritional research has focused on
studying only the importance of the major groups, the ones
that show an immediate short-term health disorder if deficient.
This comprises only 30% of known nutrients. In fact even the
most premium brand pet foods are lucky to contain 50 of the
76 nutrients available. Some cheaper pet foods may only
have 30-40. It is the damage caused by cooking and artificial
processing of modern pet foods that creates these
deficiencies (rendering minerals unavailable for absorption
from the gut), and results in subtle disease syndromes that
accumulate and worsen over an animal’s life -span. The
average dog will maintain reasonable health on commercial
pet foods for about 5-6 years, but it is the next half of its life
where the problems will become evident. Allergic skin disease
and early onset arthritis are the two most common syndromes
(omega 3 fatty acid deficiency, calcium deficiency). The more
basic and cheaper pet food brands will result in signs of
deficiency much sooner. A dull, dry, flaky coat, itchy skin,
poor dental health, blocked anal glands, obesity, diabetes,
hypothyroidism, irritable bowel syndrome, and a range of
degenerative conditions which were previously only
diagnosed in people, are just a few of the disease syndromes
that can be linked to long term dietary deficiency.
And for all the complexities of these deficiencies, for which I
can claim to understand only a few, the answer to correcting
them is so simple. A well balanced, raw food diet.
Raw food is the answer
A well-designed diet of raw food can provide all the available
macro and micronutrients necessary for perfect health. The
easy part, is that because it has not been cooked or
processed, it supplies all the nutrients in an easy to digest
and absorb form. You do not need to be a rocket scientist to
formulate a well-balanced raw food diet. The aim is to match
the natural components of a wild dog’s diet. A generous
portion of muscle meat and raw bones, some organ meats
(liver, kidney, heart), and a balance of carbohydrate and
vegetable matter, equivalent to the gut contents of the prey.
In general, it is easiest to use readily available ingredients,
like rolled oats for carbohydrate, flaxseed meal or oil for
omega 3 fatty acids, and plenty of green vegetables. There
are some simple additives you can use to fortify the diet, and
fill any gaps that would normally be supplied by a dog’s
natural scavenging habits. Brewers yeast, kelp, lecithin,
calcium, garlic, vitamin C, and powdered barley grass or
wheat grass, can all be added to the diet to create a fully
balanced, nutritional masterpiece. Using organic meats like
kangaroo and rabbit will further enhance the nutritional profile,
and purity of the diet.
Raw bones should be a daily part of the feeding program for
puppies, as they are the natural source of calcium for growth.
Raw bones should also be fed to all mature dogs at least 2-4
times weekly. Remove the marrow if feeding them to
overweight dogs. Vegetable matter should be pulped or
vitamised, to aid digestion, and prevent fussy dogs from
avoiding eating them. Increase the vegetable component for
overweight dogs. Try adding a clove or two of garlic to the
vegetable mix, and soak it in some chicken stock overnight.
Cereal grains, like rolled oats, should be soaked in an equal
volume of water, or stock, for 24 hours at room temperature,
before mixing with the rest of the ingredients. This will greatly
enhance the digestibility and bioavailability of the grain
content.
And there you have it. A simple, nutritionally complete, raw
food diet, that will provide your dog with the complete array of
nutritional building blocks, vitamins, minerals, and trace
elements, required for perfect health and a long, happy, and
active life.
Dr Bruce Syme BVSc (Hons), veterinary surgeon, and managing
director of Vets All Natural (all natural pet foods, supplements
and herbal medications).
Vets All Natural: Phone: 03 54706188. Fax: 03 54706811
Email [email protected] or visit the website for full
details at www.vetsallnatural.com.au
Page 3.4
OBESITY - An all too common problem in the Alaskan Malamute
One of the most common and easily fixed health problems that we see with the Alaskan Malamute is obesity. Most people don’t think of obesity as a medical problem because it is one that they have complete control over, yet it is a problem that can have serious consequences and significantly shorten the life span of your dog. Being an Arctic breed, the Malamute has evolved to live and work on very little food. For this reason the Malamute metabolism is extremely efficient and most Malamutes are easily overfed and are prone to obesity. The Malamute has evolved to be lean, and the body structure is not designed to carry excess weight ‐ the Malamute should be an athlete. Many caring dog owners are surprised or even offended when told that their dog is overweight, somehow viewing this information as a criticism of how they are looking after their dog. Sometimes the dog has gradually increased in weight and the owner has not even realised that their once trim Fido is now fat Fido. So if someone mentions that your dog could do with some weight loss, remember that they only have the best interests of your dog at heart and please don’t take offence. How Can I tell if my Malamute is overweight? There are quite a few tell‐tale signs that your dog is overweight but the most important thing is for the owner to take their head out of the sand, acknowledge that there could be a weight problem and be objective when assessing their dog. Unfortunately many Malamute owners think “big dog = big dish of food” without actually taking into account the condition of their dog. Take a good look at your dog, is he really in prime condition or is he a bit on the roly‐poly side? Is your dog a lean, well‐muscled athlete who is full of vigour or more your couch potato that gets puffed out walking around the block? Carrying out the following tests on your dog can help you decide. Weigh your dog: The AKC Alaskan Malamute Breed Standard dictates that the “desirable freighting size” is for males 25 inches high at the shoulder and around 39 kg, for females 23 inches high at the shoulder and around 34 kg. If you dog is around those heights then he or she should also be around those weights. Of course if your Malamute is taller or shorter the weight will vary accordingly, but you really wouldn’t expect a healthy Malamute to weigh that much more than the breed standard indicates. We are constantly dismayed by the number of Malamute owners who seem proud to announce that their dog is 60 or 70 kg, as if this fact is expected to impress. In our experience we haven’t yet seen a dog that weighs much more than around 50kg that doesn’t have some degree of weight problem. Feel the Ribs: One of the most obvious signs of a dog that is seriously overweight is that you cannot distinctly feel the ribs. Run your fingertips up and down your dog’s ribs, if you can feel every rib distinctly under the skin, with maybe a very slight covering of flesh, then your dog is probably around the correct weight. If you can feel the ribs but they are not distinct, and there is a fair bit of skin and fat between your fingertips and the ribs, then the problem is probably not too serious but you do need to get rid of that excess fat. If the ribs are very indistinct under a thick layer of fat, or even worse, if you can’t feel the ribs at all, your dog is seriously overweight and you need to take some drastic action to get some weight off before your dog suffers secondary health problems. To the other extreme, if the ribs are visible or you can feel them sticking out with just a very thin layer of skin covering them, perhaps your dog is too lean and needs a bit extra in the dinner bowl. Look at the tuck: Stand back and take an objective look at your dog from the side. The Malamute should have a distinct “tuck”, in other words there should be an obvious narrowing of the dog behind the rib cage in the loin (see diagram below). If your dog isn’t significantly narrower in the loin area then there is a good chance that he or she is a bit too porky. Another way to view the “tuck” is from above. Looking down on your dog again you should see a definite waist where the body narrows behind the ribcage at the loin. If your dog looks straight from ribs to hips from above and there is no apparent waist, then your dog is carrying too much fat. Feel your dog all over: You should only be able to feel a thin layer of flesh over the bony parts of your dog such as the spine, hips and shoulders. If you can feel a significant fat layer or can’t feel these bones distinctly, then your dog has a serious weight problem. Does he cope well with exercise? When you take your dog for a walk does he waddle rather than stride out? Does he or she drag you or do you drag your Malamute? Can you see the muscles working under his skin or does his fat wobble from side to side? Will he take as much exercise as you can dish out or does he get puffed out just strolling around the block? Take a good look next time you go for a walk and be realistic in assessing your dog’s physical condition and fitness. Why does my Malamute eat more than it needs? The survival instinct of the Alaskan Malamute dictates that any meal could be its last for quite some time, and feeding times are anticipated with much relish ‐ whatever you put in the bowl will never be enough in the eyes of the Malamute. These instincts have been with the breed and ensured it’s survival for thousands of years, so the fact that they are now a backyard pet in sunny Australia has had no impact at all on their instinct to eat all they can while they can. However, Malamute owners must resist the temptation to give in to the hungry look of the Malamute, or they'll end up with a very overweight and unhealthy dog, not to mention a huge food bill. Sometimes you’ll find your Malamute eating things that you might well not consider to be food, but for an arctic breed anything that may be vaguely nutritious is worthy of eating. This might explain why your Malamute likes to dine on plants from your garden, sticks, timber fences and kennels, any leather goods, dirt, not to mention animal droppings, including of course their own or those of their kennel mates. Most people are suitably disgusted by this behaviour (which in scientific terms is known as “coprophagia”) yet for an arctic breed where survival might depend on it the act of “recycling” simply indicates that your dog has a very well‐honed arctic survival instinct. Of course this is not highly desirable when the Malamute is a family pet that likes to give you a big lick on the face, not to mention the fact that eating their own or other dogs’ faeces can aid the spread of parasites. Don’t be alarmed – the Malamutes desire to supplement their diet doesn’t necessarily mean that you are underfeeding your Malamute or that his diet is deficient in any way. Page 3.5
So how much should I be feeding my Malamute? The Alaskan Malamute as an arctic breed has had to survive over thousands of years being able to hunt and work on a minimal diet. To cope with the lack of available food the Malamute has developed an extremely efficient and effective digestive system which enables them to draw every available ounce of nutrition and energy out of whatever it eats. As a general rule of thumb the Malamute will eat about the same amount as you would expect to feed a medium sized dog. Having said that, the metabolism of each dog is different and our Malamutes, even litter‐mates, get vastly different amounts of food depending on their individual metabolisms. A dogs’ metabolic rate is dictated to some extent by how active your dog is, the size and age of your dog, and how much exercise he gets, so there are no hard and fast rules about how much to feed. Often new Malamute owners make the mistake of religiously feeding what the breeder has told them, what Joe Bloggs down the road feeds his Malamute, or what is listed on the packet of dog food. This might work for your dog if you are lucky, but it well might not. The trick is to be objective and diligent in assessing your dog’s condition and adjusting the diet accordingly. If you exercise your dog it will help him lose weight, however the primary factor in weight‐control is how much YOU FEED your dog. Exercise is a good adjunct to sensible diet, but exercise alone will often not make a great deal of difference. We often hear people say that their Malamute is overweight because he doesn’t get walked as much as he should – RUBBISH! As with people, a dog is overweight simply because his calorie intake exceeds the amount of calories he burns up, so if he isn’t burning up many calories with exercise then simply reduce the calorie intake. You may find you are giving your Malamute a very meagre looking portion, but if that’s all he needs to maintain good health then don’t be tempted to increase the volume. A few of our Malamutes get fed next to nothing, in fact they just need to look at food to put on weight, yet they remain quite healthy and in good physical condition. The bottom line is that your dog doesn’t do the shopping and serve his own dinner, you do. It is up to you to give him just what he needs and no more. But he still looks hungry! It is always very tempting to give your Malamute just a bit extra because Fido is still looking at you with those pleading, hungry eyes when the dinner bowl is empty. Think of the welfare of your dog, be strong and don’t give in! If you feel that you need to feed you dog a larger quantity but don’t want him to gain weight, then try padding his meal out with low calorie / high fibre foods. Replace some of the higher energy portion of his diet, such as dry foods and meats, with filler foods such as vegetables, rice, pasta, barley or oats. These foods will fill your dog up without adding nearly as many calories as an equal quantity of other dog foods. Many of the good quality brands of dry dog food offer a lower calorie alternative for older dogs or dogs that put on weight easily, so try substituting your normal dry food with a “lite” formula. One of the downfalls in controlling the diet is often the temptation to feed your dog a snack every now and then – fine if this is properly monitored but if every member of the family is doing it then it will add up to quite a lot of extra calories your dog is ingesting per day. If everyone in the family enjoys giving the dog a treat that’s fine, just make sure it is a low‐calorie snack. You will find that your Malamute will enjoy a small bone or a carrot just as much as a high calorie biscuit or doggy treat from the supermarket, and the former is obviously much better for your dog than the latter. The same applies if you are using food to train your dog. Malamutes respond very well and learn quickly when food is offered as a reward, so all you need to do is replace the traditional supermarket treats with a vege or fruit treat such as pieces of carrot or apple. Another good weight‐control tip is not to give your dog leftovers if they are really better off in the rubbish bin. Sugary, spicy or salty foods really aren’t terribly good for your dog and he is much better off without them, so please think carefully before adding “human” foods to your dog’s dinner bowl. Last but not least, do not use food as a means to ease your guilt and as a substitute for attention! But does it really matter if my Malamute is overweight? The answer is of course YES! This breed has developed and survived for thousands of years in an environment where food is scarce, and the structure and function of the Malamute dictates that this is a breed that should be lean. Any excess weight on the dog, and especially on growing puppies, can lead to other quite serious health problems affecting the heart, joints, kidneys, lungs and liver and increases the risk of the following: 
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Hip dysplasia & joint problems Heart disease and high blood pressure Respiratory problems Decreased stamina Heat intolerance (will suffer more in hot weather) Increased surgical risk Digestive problems Reduced immune and liver function Coat & skin problems Increased risk of cancer Decreased length & quality of life Other factors causing obesity: Most cases of obesity in Malamutes can be attributed to the owner being overgenerous with the amount they are feeding the dog. However, there are also medical conditions that can lead to obesity and many of these can be treated. If your Malamute has an unexplained weight gain or does not respond to “dieting” then take him or her to a vet to make sure there is not an underlying medical cause. Obesity is a serious problem You don’t need to be a veterinarian to realise that the vast number of problems and conditions that are exacerbated by obesity will mean that an overweight dog has a decreased ability to lead a happy and healthy life. Obese dogs are generally more uncomfortable, prone to more medical problems, are less active and are much more likely to have a reduced lifespan. So do your dog a favour and keep him trim. Remember ‐ A fit, healthy and lean Malamute is a happy Malamute! References: Dog Owners’ Guide: http://www.canismajor.com/dog/obese.html Is Your Dog Overweight... What Should You Do? http://www.dogs‐and‐diets.com/html/obesity.html Is your dog overweight? http://www.pet‐foods.co.uk/page16.html Page 3.6
Written by Sandy Koch Section 4: Breeding Information
What Makes a Breeder Professional?
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A professional breeder is one who has made a lifetime
commitment to the well-being and IMPROVEMENT of one or
possibly two breeds.
A professional has studied and researched his breed and
knows, intimately, its history and standard, its strong points
and drawbacks.
A professional has spent time, effort and MONEY
researching and proving the qualities and health of his or her
breeding stock. Those that do not prove out are NOT bred.
He/she plans a litter only with the goal of puppies better than
the parents, not for profit or vanity.
A professional considers his/her dogs' health and well-being
far more important than their ability to reproduce.
A professional builds a good reputation slowly, based on
dedication and consistent quality, not on volume, advertising
or from a casual or self-glorifying attitude.
A professional can look at a bigger picture than dog show
wins or puppy sales and contributes in some way to the
betterment of dogs as a whole.
A professional has both the time and mental fortitude to BE
THERE for his/her bitches and puppies. They evaluate their
litters and make every effort to match the puppy to buyer in
temperament, attitude and energy level as well as physical
qualities.
Facts about Breeding
We think it is extremely important to learn the facts and possible
consequences in advance if you are contemplating breeding your
dog.
In today's overcrowded world, we, the wardens of our domestic
pets, must make responsible decisions for them and for
ourselves. The following points should be reviewed carefully:
Quality - ANKC registration is NOT an indication of quality. Most
dogs, even purebred, should not be bred. Many dogs, though
wonderful pets, have defects of structure, personality or health
that should not be perpetuated. Breeding Animals should be
proven free of these defects BEFORE starting on a reproductive
career. Breeding only should be done with the goal of
IMPROVEMENT - an honest attempt to create puppies better
than their parents. Ignorance is no excuse - once you have
created a life, you can't take it back, even if blind, crippled or a
canine psychopath!
Cost - Dog breeding is NOT a money-making proposition, if done
correctly. Health care and shots, diagnosis of problems and proof
of quality, extra food, facilities, stud fees, advertising, etc. are all
costly and must be paid BEFORE the pups can be sold. An
unexpected Caesarean or emergency intensive care for a sick
pup will make a break-even litter become a big liability. And this
is IF you can sell the pups.
Sales - first-time breeders have no reputation and no referrals to
help them find buyers. Previous promises of "I want a dog just
like yours" evaporate. Consider the time and expense of caring
for pups that may not sell until four months, eight months or more!
What WOULD you do if your pups did not sell? Send them to the
pound? Dump them in the country? Sell them cheaply to a dog
broker who may resell them to labs or other unsavoury buyers?
Veteran breeders WITH a good reputation often don't consider a
breeding unless they have cash deposits in advance of an
average-sized litter.
Joy of Birth - If you're doing it for the children's education,
remember the whelping may be at 3:00 A.M. or at the vet's on the
surgery table. Even if the kiddies are present, they may get a
chance to see the birth of a monster or a mummy, or watch the
bitch scream and bite you as you attempt to deliver a pup that is
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A professional is, first and foremost, selling, to responsible,
loving homes. While some exceptional pups may be saved
for special show homes, the professional does not force
entangling contract or arrangements for "puppies back" on
people who are only interested in a pet.
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A professional does NOT have so many dogs that there is no
time for individual attention, play and grooming, or so that
he/she has to skimp on food quality, space, preventive
medicine and health care.
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A professional assumes responsibility for the life he/she
creates - carefully screening buyers, helping find new
homes, making a comfortable life for the retirees, and yes,
being able to make the decision to euthanize when a puppy
born with a mental or physical problem has no chance for a
quality life.
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A professional goes further and assumes some responsibility
for the problems of his/her breed as a whole - they belong to
an organisation for the breed, they continue to read about
new developments, and they work to reduce the number of
their breed that are carelessly bred, ill care for and
discarded.
Given a choice, educated owners much prefer to buy from
these professionals. If you want to join the professional
ranks, we'll enjoy working with you as you learn. If you feel
this is more obligation than you care to take on, choose the
responsible alternative of having your pet neutered.
half out and too large. Some bitches are not natural mothers and
either ignore or savage their whelps.
Bitches can have severe delivery problems or even die in whelp pups can be born dead or with gross deformities that require
euthanasia. Of course, there can be joy, but if you can't deal with
the possibility of tragedy, don't start.
Time - Veteran breeders of quality dogs state they spend well
over 130 hours of labour in raising an average litter. That is over
two hours per day, every day! The bitch CANNOT be left alone
while whelping and only for short periods for the first few days
after. Be prepared for days off work and sleepless nights. Even
after delivery, mom needs care and feeding, puppies need daily
checking, weighing, socialization, and later grooming and training,
and the whelping box needs lots and lots of cleaning. More hours
are spent doing paperwork, pedigrees and interviewing buyers. If
you have any abnormal conditions, such as sick puppies or a
bitch who can't or won't care for her babes, count on double the
time. If you can't provide the time, you will either have dead pups
or poor ones that are had tempered, antisocial, dirty and/or sickly
- hardly a buyer's delight.
Humane Responsibilities - It's midnight - do you know where
your puppies are? There are THREE AND A HALF MILLION
unwanted dogs put to death in pounds in this country each year,
with millions more dying homeless and unwanted through
starvation, disease, automobiles, abuse, etc. Nearly a quarter of
the victims of this unspeakable tragedy are purebred dogs "with
papers." The breeder who creates a life is responsible for that life.
Will you carefully screen potential buyers? Or will you just take
the money and not worry if the puppy is chained in a junkyard all
its life or runs in the street to be killed? Will you turn down a sale
to irresponsible owners? Or will you say "yes" and not think
about that puppy you held and loved now having a litter of
mongrels every time she comes in heat which fills the pounds
with more statistics - your grandpups? Would you be prepared to
take back a grown puppy if the owners can no longer care for it?
Or can you live with the thought that the baby you helped bring
into the world will be destroyed at the pound?
Conclusions - Because of these facts, we believe that dog
breeding is best left to the "professional" breeder.
Reprinted from The ECSCA News-Review, JulylAugust 1991.
Page 4.1
Section 4: Breeding Information
Points To Consider Before You Breed

Financial considerations
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Can you afford to breed your dog? Have you realistically
worked out your expenses (and then add more for
unforeseen expenses, e.g. emergency Caesarian,
illnesses). You will need to outlay a huge amount of
money for hip x-rays, stud fee, care for the pregnant
bitch, vaccinating, worming and feeding puppies, hire of a
whelping box, advertising, vet bills, etc.
Breeding is not a profitable venture - a great deal of
expense is incurred weeks before any money comes in
from sale of puppies. If you are lucky you might make a
small profit, more often responsible breeders break even
or make a loss from breeding.
Will you be able to sell your pups? Are Malamute pups
currently in demand, or has the market already been
flooded with pups?
Are you aware what prices Malamute pups are being sold
for? It is a good idea to look in newspapers (the Trading
Post has the most dog advertisements) to get a feel for
the market.
Are you willing to refund a certain amount of money on
proof of desexing by a certain age?
Do you have sufficient room to raise a litter until at least 8
weeks of age? Litters can be as large as 12 pups, or
sometimes even larger.

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Suitability for breeding


Time considerations
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Can someone be with the bitch before and during
whelping? It is irresponsible to leave the bitch to whelp
on her own as problems could arise and you may risk
losing both the bitch and all the pups.
Are you able to be with the bitch and pups after the pups
are born? Can you be there to feed the pups every few
hours after they are weaned?
If problems arise and the bitch cannot feed the pups
herself, will you be able to hand-rear the pups (this
requires feeding every few hours for the first couple of
weeks)?
Screening prospective owners and having them come
over look at the pups is a very time consuming exercise.
You may spend hours talking to people, only to find that
they buy their pup from someone else. Have you the
time and patience for this?
Are you prepared to provide new puppy owners with
information about the breed and the pups' requirements?
Are you prepared to talk at length to your puppy owners
after they have purchased the pup and answer any
queries they may have? If this is their first puppy there
will be plenty!
Are you prepared to keep in touch with the owners of
your pups on an ongoing basis?
If the owners can no longer keep the pup for some
reason at a later date, are you prepared to take the dog
back?
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
Why do you want to breed? You will probably not make
money, so this is not a good reason.
If you are breeding because you would like another pup
to keep, have you considered that it is easier (and may
be cheaper) to purchase a pup from a reputable breeder.
Do you know and understand the Alaskan Malamute
Breed Standard? Breeders should always be aiming to
improve the breed - without knowing the breed standard
you won't know what points are desirable in your
dog/bitch, and which points are not (e.g. many new
Malamute owners think "bigger is better" - it isn't)
Are both sire and dam purebred, registered Alaskan
Malamutes? If you do not have pedigree papers, you
could be breeding very close relatives, or to dogs with
hereditary problems in their background. Without papers
you cannot be 100% sure that the dog is a purebred
Malamute. It is harder to sell dogs without papers, and
people will not be prepared to pay nearly as much for
unregistered pups.
Do the sire and dam conform closely with the Breed
Standard? Never breed with a dog that has a major fault,
hoping to breed that fault out - you are only perpetuating
the problem.
Are the dog and bitch of suitable age to breed and are
they in excellent health? The AMCV Code of Ethics
states that the minimum age for breeding is 18 months.
Do you know what hereditary problems Malamutes are
prone to, and are you prepared to screen your breeding
stock for hereditary problems including eye and thyroid
problems?
Have both sire and dam been x-rayed for hip and elbow
dysplasia? Good hips and elbows cannot be determined
by looking at the dog, so an x-ray is the only way of
detecting dysplasia other than in quite severe cases.
Breeding from dogs of unknown hip status is
irresponsible and may result in a litter of pups with bad
hips.
Do you know if there are any hereditary problems in the
lines of your dog or the stud dog? Breeding without
knowing the medical background of both dogs is
irresponsible and could result in puppies with costly
medical problems.
Finding a suitable match


Reasons for breeding

It is not true that every bitch should have a litter before
being spayed. It is also not true that having a litter will
settle a bitch down. These are not reasons for breeding.
Remember that a vast majority of Malamutes:
- are beautiful to look at
- have excellent markings
- have friendly temperaments
- are seen by their owners as being the perfect dog.
These in themselves are not reasons to breed.
Do not breed just because your friends say you should, or
that they would like a puppy. When the time comes,
often promises made in the past are forgotten, and the
people you were assured would take a pup have changed
their minds.

Page 4.2
Are you able to locate a suitable stud dog at a price you
can afford?
Do you understand pedigrees and the difference between
line-breeding, inbreeding and an outcross? You should
be seeking a stud dog which would make a good match
according to the pedigree as well as conformation
(physical attributes) of both dogs. If you are not sure, ask
a reputable and experienced breeder for advice.
Do both sire and dam have excellent temperament?
Never breed from dogs with bad temperament,
regardless of how wonderful you think other attributes of
your dog are. A fantastic specimen of the breed is
useless if no one can go near the dog. Breeding with a
Malamute of bad temperament is perpetuating a serious
problem.
Finding suitable homes for your pups
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How and where are you going to advertise your pups?
Are you a member of the breed club? Many responsible
prospective owners will approach the breed club for
advice and recommendations. If you are a member of
the AMCV and both parents of the litter are passed for
Hip Dysplasia, you may be able to advertise and receive
referrals through the club.
Are you prepared to cull any puppy born with a congenital
defect, e.g. cleft palate, serious heart defect, missing
digits, etc?
Can you find good homes for your pups? Are you
prepared to screen prospective owners to determine their
suitability as Malamute owners? Are you prepared to turn
away people who you don't think are suitable?
Are you prepared to keep puppies until suitable homes
are found, even though good homes sometimes cannot
be found until the pups are 6 months of age or even
older?

Are you prepared to keep any puppies that you cannot
find good homes for?
A breeder is responsible for dogs that they breed for the
life of the dog. Would you be prepared to take back the
pups that you bred at a later date should a problem
arise? The club will refer unwanted Malamutes back to
their breeders.
Are you prepared to take back any pup that you breed if it
develops a serious health problem or inherited disease,
and refund monies or replace the pup?
If you have answered NO to any of these questions DO
NOT BREED, desex your Malamute and have a nice pet.
If you have answered YES to all these questions and have
taken into account all the above considerations, be prepared
to continually outlay money. A word of advice - YOU DO
NOT MAKE MONEY OUT OF BREEDING DOGS.
Produced by the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria Inc., July, 1998
Alaskan Malamute Puppy Register
If you are considering purchasing a Malamute puppy, we encourage you to contact our club's Puppy Registrar for
details of breeders who have pups available (contact details are elsewhere in this information pack).
Guidelines for the Puppy Register are that:
1. The owners of the mother of the litter (dam) must have been members of the club for at least the last 6 months.
2. Both parents of the litter must be purebred, registered Alaskan Malamutes.
3. Both parents (sire and dam) of the litter must be x-rayed and passed for hip & elbow dysplasia and have been
tested for thyroid and eye problems.
4. Puppies must be sold with their registration papers (either limited or main register) and be at least 8 weeks old.
Selecting a Breeder
To help determine if a breeder is reputable and responsible, consider the following:
11. How old is the dam? How old is the sire? Are they
1.
How long has the breeder been involved in this
both of suitable age for breeding? The AMCV Code of
breed?
Ethics states that bitches should be at least 18
2.
Does the breeder belong to the breed club and the
months of age before breeding.
State canine controlling body?
12. Does the breeder offer a guarantee? If so, can you
3.
Does the breeder encourage prospective puppy
read it before buying the puppy? What does the
buyers to visit and see their stock? Do the dogs
guarantee cover?
appear to be healthy and well cared for?
13.
Does the puppy come with information on worming,
4.
Will the whole litter, dam and sire be available for
feeding and vaccinations?
viewing?
Does the breeder provide information and seem
5.
Has the breeder a good relationship with the dogs
knowledgeable about the breed?
he/she owns?
14.
Will
the breeder be available and willing to help you as
6.
What is the temperament of the dam and sire?
the puppy grows?
7.
Do both parents and the puppies have registration
15. At what age can you pick up the puppy? The
(pedigree) papers?
Victorian Canine Association Code of Ethics states
8.
Is the breeder aware of health and hereditary
that 8 weeks is the minimum age for pups to leave
problems that the Malamute is prone to?
their litter mates and dam.
9.
Is the breeder aware that Hip & elbow dysplasia are
16. Does the breeder have some hold on the puppy after
only detectable for evaluation by X-ray? Are both the
you buy it?
sire and dam X-rayed and passed for hip & elbow
17.
Agreements on breeding and stud arrangements
dysplasia and does the breeder provide a copy of the
should be discussed and understood by both parties.
results?
18.
Will
the breeder pick the puppy or will you select it?
10. Does the breeder test for eye and thyroid problems,
19.
How
much will the puppy cost? Is a deposit required?
and know that hereditary cataracts and
Does the breeder issue a signed receipt?
hypothyroidism can affect the breed?
Written contracts often protect both parties
Page 4.3
The Decision to Breed . . .
The following is reprinted from “Successful Dog Breeding” (2nd edition) by Chris Walkowicz & Bonnie Wilcox DVM. parents. Despite Should I or Shouldn’t I? this abundance of A decision concerning living creatures should never be pet homes, each taken lightly. All factors must be carefully considered. Let’s breeder’s goal should be to strive to improve. While a face it. The life of a breeder is demanding. Sure, it’s fun to show prospect still makes a good companion, a pet‐quality cuddle adorable puppies. But more time is spent dealing pup rarely makes a show dog of breeding quality. with the mundane. Midnight whelpings, weighing squirmy Sweetness, loyalty and cuteness are not enough reason to pups, mixing goopy cereal, wiping puddles, scooping poop breed a dog. Sweet, loyal, cute but unwanted dogs die and clipping countless nails are all part of a breeder’s life. every day. And it doesn’t stop there. Selling puppies isn’t posting a With five million dogs euthanized annually because of a sign in your yard or running a newspaper ad. It begins with lack of homes, we feel no one should breed who is not the decision to breed and doesn’t end until the last puppy willing to sign the following pledge: dies of old age ‐ because we are responsible for every  I pledge that all animals that I breed from are animal we bring into this world. sound, both mentally and physically, and that they are outstanding examples of their breed. Professionalism and Responsibility. The person who is the breeder of an occasional litter does not have to be synonymous with a poor one. On the contrary, the quantity of litters has nothing to do with the quality of the puppies produced ‐ unless the quantity outweighs the care. Breeders should act professionally even though they do not breed dogs as a business. In fact, commercial breeding practices ‐ puppy mills ‐ are contrary to professionalism. Whether breeding is a life’s dedication or only a hobby, professionalism means that breeders intend to produce happy, healthy, attractive dogs. They refuse to mix breeds or to pair dogs indiscriminately because of proximity, convenience or financial appeal. There is no reason to perpetuate mediocrity ‐ or worse. If a dog has a genetic problem, why pass it to its pups and their owners? Professionals research the conditions existing in their breed and particularly in their own dogs. Sellers should discuss a breed’s drawbacks, as well as its appeal, with buyers. Honest representation of the breed and the individuals is a must. Breeders are sure of the soundness of their breeding animals. They have proved their dogs’ worth in at least one area of competition: breed, obedience or performance. 
I pledge to sell all pets on spay/neuter contracts and to enforce my contracts. 
I pledge to stand behind my sales with health guarantees for those problems that may result from my breedings. 
I pledge to assist in providing a loving home during its lifetime, to the best of my abilities, for every animal I breed. Each year, millions of ex‐pets, once‐upon‐a‐time cute puppies, die or live out their lives in cells. They die in pounds; they die under cars; they die of starvation or disease. Often they die in agony. Remember that anyone who creates a life is responsible for that life . . . for a lifetime. Another consideration for those who wish to breed is a toughie. Reproduction is not only the miracle of birth. Sometimes it brings the tragedy of death. Breeders must be able to face the terrifying possibility of losing a puppy or the entire litter ‐ or, even worse, losing the bitch to one of several whelping complications. Even the most successful exhibitor receives more calls for companions than for show puppies, and nearly every litter contains pet‐quality puppies, even those from top‐notch Page 4.4
Section 5: Activities
Obedience & the Alaskan Malamute
The Alaskan Malamute can be a very independent and stubborn
breed that often won’t do anything without good reason. This,
coupled with the Malamute’s need for you (and your family) to be
the “alpha” or “pack leader”, makes it all the more important that
all Malamute owners obedience train and socialise their dogs
from an early age, preferably with a reputable obedience club or
organisation.
An untrained Malamute may be cute and amusing as a pup, but
will soon turn into a large, energetic, uncontrollable dog if left
undisciplined - hence the numerous phone calls the club receives
each week from people wanting to “get rid” of their adult
Malamutes. Often these people have not done their research
into the breed or been prepared to discipline, socialise or
obedience train their dogs.
Malamutes are classified as a high-intelligence, low-trainability
breed, so it is all the more important to start as soon as you get
your Malamute no matter what age he or she is. Not only is it
vital that they learn to respect you and recognise you as being in
authority, but they will also get the
opportunity to socialise with other dogs
of all breeds and sizes in an
environment where all the dogs should
be under good control. This will help
reduce the likelihood of your dog
becoming fear-aggressive towards
other dogs and may help reduce its
natural competitive instincts as it
matures.
With the Malamute being a pack dog, they will quickly recognise
who commands their respect, and they will just as quickly work
out who is a bit of a “push-over” and can be ignored, but even if
you have an older Malamute it is never too late to start. Some of
our most unruly, out-of-control rescue dogs have, in the hands of
a firm but understanding owner, become model Malamute
citizens.
This does not mean using physical punishment, but it does
mean that you have to be extremely firm with your Malamute and
let him know that you mean what you say. Once you have
issued a command, don’t give in until he has done as you ask.
You need your Malamute to see you as someone who is to be
respected and in authority, as well as someone who is kind and
fair.
Every time you let your Malamute ignore you and get his way
you are undermining your authority and giving your dog the
message that he’s the boss, which can be unpleasant to live with
when its a large, strong dog such as the Alaskan Malamute.
What is Obedience?
When you mention dog obedience most people think of
dogs in an obedience class doing various exercises under
strict control. Partly correct, but there’s a lot more to
obedience than just that hour every week down at the
obedience club.
Obedience means quite simply that your dog will obey you – you
will give a command, the dog will understand it and carry it out.
Obedience is something that comes into play in your everyday
interaction with your dog, for instance when your dog sits and
waits for you to put down the food bowl or waits at the back door
while you go through with the groceries. Obedience means
good doggy manners and a much more pleasant canine
companion to live with.
How much can my
Malamute Learn?
A Malamute is very intelligent
and can be taught to
understand a huge vocabulary
of commands, so don’t think
that just because you are
training for one activity that it
will exclude your dog participating in other activities.
The same Malamute that will sit during obedience class or when
waiting for the command to eat dinner can also be trained to
stand for examination and gait on loose lead in the show ring, or
pull a weight pull trolley or scooter in a sled dog race. A
Malamute is clever enough to discern between the various
activities and will quickly come to associate different items of
equipment or preparation routines with each activity. How much
your Malamute can learn depends largely on your patience,
understanding and ability as a trainer.
Obedience School
It is very important that Alaskan Malamutes go
to obedience classes from an early age. Most
obedience clubs will accept puppies from
around 3 months of age with proof of
vaccination, however the rules may vary slightly
between clubs. We recommend you contact a
Dogs Victoria (VCA) affiliated obedience club
near you to find out about puppy classes and
their requirements.
Remember that when you go to obedience school with your
dog, YOU are the one who will be receiving instruction on how
to train your dog, the dog is not there to learn from the
instructor. For this reason obedience classes usually last for
about an hour - your dog may not have such a long
concentration span but the handler should!
Armed with the knowledge about dog training that you have
gained at your obedience class you should then be able to apply
what you’ve learnt at home with your dog – this is where your
dog will do most of his or her learning.
Keep in mind that the Malamute is not noted for their obedience
trainability, so do not set unrealistic goals. No matter how
young you start or how hard you train, you will probably never
fully be able to conquer those behaviours associated with arctic
survival. For this reason a Malamute should never be let offlead.
Obedience Sessions
The AMCV obedience sessions are fairly casual and
should be used in conjunction with a weekly obedience
class at an all-breeds obedience club. We recommend
any obedience clubs that are affiliated with Dogs Victoria
(VCA) as they are fairly cheap to attend and usually have
quite a few instructors and good facilities. A list of affiliated
obedience clubs is available from the Dogs Victoria
website at www.dogsvictoria.org.au .
The aim of our practice sessions is to give you some
additional assistance with your obedience training and
offer some Malamute-specific advice that you might not get
at an all-breeds obedience club.
All are welcome, no matter what age*, whether you dog is
registered or not, well-behaved or uncontrollable!
If you would like assistance with any specific problems, or would
like some general advice about your Malamute, obedience
equipment or training, please contact the AMCV Obedience Coordinator.
*Pups must be at least 13 weeks of age – please bring proof of
vaccination
Details of obedience practice sessions are published on the
website, in the club’s newsletter, The Malamute Mail, or can be
obtained from the AMCV’s Obedience Co-ordinator, Vice
President (Activities) or Secretary.
Page 5.1
Backpacking with your Malamute
Being a working dog, the Malamute will enjoy any working activities including backpacking, and of course will help make him or her healthier, happier, fitter and less frustrated dog. Longer backpacking events can at times be a strenuous activity for both you and your dog, however the AMCV conducts events at varying levels of difficulty to suit everyone. Anyone can join in as long as you and your dog are in good health, are reasonably fit and have the right equipment, however age limits apply to dogs attempting to gain the Working Pack Dog (WPD) and Working Pack Dog Excellent (WPDX) titles. Who Can Participate? Any dog will enjoy walking and hiking, and all breeds are welcome to attend AMCV backpacking events. Dogs of any age can attend fun walks and activity introduction days, however young puppies should not be walked too far although they will enjoy a short walk and the socialising during a walk with other dogs. Any dog over 12 months of age can participate in the 16 km, 1‐day backpacking events, however it is recommended that dogs do not hike carrying full weight until over 18 months. Dogs must be over 2 years of age to attempt a leg towards the Working Pack Dog Excellent title (WPDX) which is a 3‐day hike of at least 64km involving camping out and carrying all necessary equipment for self‐sufficiency. Where to walk Try to choose trails that will provide plenty of shade for your walk and have a suitable surface for your dog to walk on. Also be aware that there are many areas in which you are not permitted to have a dog, including National Parks, so check before your big excursion that you and your dog won't be breaking any laws just by being there. Some State forests and old rail trails are ideal for packing and provide an ideal dirt & leafy surface for hiking on. Getting Started Training should not start too young as this could do damage to a rapidly growing puppy, however at around 9 months of age a puppy can be introduced to an empty or very lightly loaded backpack to get them used to it. Training should begin with walking you dog with a lightly loaded pack to get him or her used to the feel of it, and to ensure that the pack is fitted correctly and is comfortable for the dog. Once the dog is used to wearing the pack, gradually increase the weight and the distance of your walks. By building up the weight in this way, any problems with your dog or the backpack should become apparent before you find yourself miles from anywhere participating in a long distance hike. It is useful if your dog understands some basic obedience commands such as “leave it”, “stop”, “wait”, and “slowly” as this will make your trip a much easier one. Teaching your dog to walk in front or behind you will also allow you to navigate the trails more easily. Equipment Expect to be exposed to a wide range of temperatures when hiking and always be prepared for changing weather conditions. Ensure that you have adequate water for the trip for both you and your dog – generally a Malamute may consume 1‐3 litres of water during a 16 km hike, maybe more on a warm day or longer hike. Never assume that water will be available along the trail. You will require a sturdy lead (6 ‐ 8 feet long is ideal) & collar, food, water & water bowl for your dog, and a basic first aid kit as well as your own requirements. The only specialised equipment you may need is a canine backpack for your dog, although on 1‐day hikes and fun walks do not need to carry a pack as long as the handler is carrying water, first aid kit and other essentials for the walk. Dog backpacks can be obtained through the club and are made from a heavy‐duty water‐proof material with adjustable straps so that the pack can be fitted to your dog. There are several styles of backpack available, with the 2‐piece pack made up of a padded saddle and a separate pannier bag section being the best for longer walks and multi‐day hikes. The backpack should sit well forward on the dog’s back and over the shoulders. A badly fitted pack will be uncomfortable for the dog, may rub and could cause injury. If you are not sure that your dog’s pack is fitted correctly, please check with an experienced backpacker. Be aware that Malamutes are a breed that must be walked on lead at all times ‐ wildlife will almost certainly be encountered on your hike and will often pose an irresistible temptation to even the most obedient of Malamutes! Backpacking Events There are several types and levels of event the club conducts from introduction days, fun walks and day hikes, through to the multi‐day long distance events. The types of events on offer are as follows: Activities Introduction Days: These events focus specifically on all working dog activities, including backpacking. Several of these are held throughout the year at venues around Melbourne, and provide information about what is involved in packing with your Malamute, rules, training, dog care, etc. The club supplies a limited range of dog packs and leads for members to borrow for the day. Fun Walks: These are short “picnic” fun walks which are just a few kilometres, dogs do not have to carry a backpack or much weight and younger dogs are welcome to attend. Please note that young puppies should not be walked too far. 1‐day Hikes (WPD Standard): These are walks of at least 16 km and will commence early in the morning – allow at least 6 hours. Dogs must be at least a year old, but do not have to carry weight or a backpack unless seeking to obtain a WPD title, and do not have to complete the full distance. The trails used are mostly forest tracks and hiking trails, some of which are not accessible by vehicle. These events may be cancelled if the temperature is over 25°C. 3‐day Hikes (WPDX Standard): These are 64 km multi‐day hikes for those seeking a Working Pack Dog Excellent title. For a dog to participate in the multi‐day events they must have completed successfully at least one 16 km day hike and must be over 2 years old. Details of packing events being held by the AMCV are published on the website, in the club’s newsletter, The Malamute Mail, or can be obtained from the AMCV’s Backpacking Co‐ordinator, Vice President (Activities) or Secretary. Page 5.2
Weight Pulling
Alaskan Malamutes have a renowned reputation for great strength and possess an uncanny ability to pull heavy loads in varying conditions for a variety of purposes. The Alaskan Malamute is a true working animal and has been bred overseas for many years to assist with the transportation of heavy loads in arctic conditions. In Australia, we generally do not weightpull in arctic conditions and weightpull competitions are held for recreation and enjoyment for you and your Malamute. It is widely agreed that although Malamutes possess great strength and natural instinct to pull, they require you to train them correctly to weightpull so as to minimise injury and to maximise pulling power. Your Malamute’s ability to pull heavier weight will depend more on technique than individual strength. It is highly recommended your Malamute be well trained to act on voice command as this is the only assistance the handler may provide in encouraging your Malamute to pull weight in competition. General fitness of your Malamute must be maintained when weightpulling. Pulling heavy loads can place unnecessary strain and lead to injury if you do not maintain sound physical condition of your Mal. All AMCV weightpull competitions are conducted with enjoyment being the primary objective. Your Malamute will truly enjoy the experience and will leave you in awe of this truly powerful animal. Weightpulling in Australia Weightpulling in Australia is generally conducted on natural, flat surfaces such as clean gravel or grass, however, weightpull can be held on any surface which allows for non‐restricted movement to the pulling equipment. The AMCV hold most weightpull events at VCA headquarters at KCC Park. Several events are conducted all year round ranging from competition days, training days and working dog expos. AMCV weightpull competitions require the dog to pull a trailer, which is attached to the dogs harness by sturdy rope. The distance required to pull the trailer is 16 feet and must be achieved within a time limit of 1 minute. Weight is added at minimum 42 kilogram increments after successful completion of each previous weight Before the commencement of competition, each Malamute is weighed and grouped in one of four weight categories to compete against similar weighted dogs. Class winners are decided from each of the weight divisions and an overall winner is determined by calculating the weight to weight ratio, that is, how much the dog pulled relative to its own body weight. Who Can Participate? Anyone with a healthy dog aged 18 months and over can participate – you don’t have to be a club member and it doesn’t matter what breed of dog you have or if the dog has registration papers or not. All dogs are eligible for prizes, however the major club awards are reserved for purebred registered Malamutes. All bitches in season at the time of competition will not be able to compete. Any dog that has been unwell, or is showing signs of lameness or illness should not be brought to any event as this is not in the dog’s best interests or those of the other dogs attending. It is important that the handler be well prepared to embarrass themselves. As often is the case, the handler must display humorous and sometimes embarrassing techniques in order to have your dog come on command. Very funning watching!! Equipment To participate in weightpull activities with your dog you will require a weight pull harness. This harness is the most critical piece of equipment for the dog to have to wear and is specifically for weightpull purposes. The harnesses are made to measure for each individual dog to ensure good fit, and are made from strong, lightweight webbing with padding around the neck and chest to maximise comfort for the dog and minimise the risk of injury or discomfort. Weight‐pull harnesses can be purchased via the AMCV or from a weightpull outfitter such as Windchill Dog Gear. Some would argue that an even more critical piece of equipment is your ability to have fun and be prepared to laugh. One thing is for sure, you will certainly enjoy the experience more if you have these tools. We look forward to you joining us at our future weightpull events and any other activity you choose. Our club offers many activities for you and your Mals to enjoy. Be assured, your furry companion will forever thank you for participating. Weight Pull Events* Introduction to Activities Days: These events focus son all working dog activities, including weight‐pulling. Several of these are held throughout the year at venues around Melbourne, and provide information about what is involved in weight‐pulling with your Malamute, rules, training, dog care, etc. The club supplies a limited range of weight‐pull harnesses for members to borrow for the day. Weight Pull Competitions: These are all held at the AMCV’s weight pull facility at KCC Park, Westernport Highway (Dandenong –Hastings Road), Lyndhurst. Melways Map Reference 128 H 12 Competitors are asked to arrive in plenty of time to register, weigh‐in and organise equipment, and are welcome to practice in the weight‐pull chute prior to commencement of the event. Weight pull events may be cancelled if the forecast temperature is 25oC or over. Details of Weight Pull events and Activities Introduction days are published on the website, in the club’s newsletter, The Malamute Mail, or can be obtained from the AMCV’s Weight‐
pull Co‐ordinator, Vice President (Activities) or Secretary. Page 5.3
Sledding with your Malamute
Sledding is an activity enjoyed by many breeds of dog, but particularly by breeds that have a history and instinct for pulling in harness such as the Alaskan Malamute. The Alaskan Malamute is a freighting sleddog whose purpose is to pull moderately heavy loads at a steady speed over long distances. Even though the Malamute is not a sprint sleddog like the Siberian Husky, they nevertheless enjoy the sport of sled dog racing just as much and will quite happily plod along at their own pace. The instincts of this breed are strongly entrenched and most Malamutes still harbour a natural desire to pull and don’t require a great deal of training to learn to pull in harness. There is no better way of satisfying the Malamutes’ natural instincts to pull than by harnessing them up and getting them to pull you along, whether it be on a bike or scooter or in the more traditional manner of pulling a sled on snow. The Alaskan Malamute is basically a working dog, and getting your Mal involved in some sledding activities will not only make him or her a healthier and fitter dog, but also a happier and less frustrated one. It’s also an enjoyable and fun activity for the “musher” (dog driver) as well, and allows your Malamute to get plenty of exercise while being kept under effective control, and it’s easy for you to keep up with your dog even if you aren’t terribly fit. You don’t necessarily have to be involved in sledding events to enjoy this activity. Many dog owners use the local trails and parks to exercise their dogs in harness in preference to being dragged along on lead during walks. Even though sledding events are often competitive, remember first and foremost that sledding should be fun and an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog. Sledding in Australia Most of Australia’s alpine areas are National Parks and are off limits to dogs. Accordingly most sledding events in Australia are conducted in bushland on dirt tracks with the 1‐dog and 2‐dog teams pulling scooters and larger teams pulling 3‐wheeled rigs, although there is one snow race in Australia held annually at Dinner Plain. The AMCV conducts several sledding events from April to September each year ranging from training days, sprint race events, longer maxi race events through to 16 km excursion and multi‐day long distance events. A number of private clubs also conduct sledding events that are open to anyone who wishes to enter, however these usually require pre‐entry. The AMCV uses a number of forests around Melbourne for our sledding activities, including areas around Geelong, Macedon and Heathcote. These areas are all within 1 to 1.5 hours drive from Melbourne, and for 2‐day events many participants choose camp overnight with their dogs. For any dog, strenuous exercising should be avoided in warm weather, so the sledding rules dictate that a sledding event cannot be held if the temperature is over 15oC. Who Can Participate? Anyone with a healthy dog can participate – you don’t have to be a club member and it doesn’t matter what breed of dog you have or if the dog has registration papers or not. Most sleddog races offer 1‐dog, 2‐dog and 4‐dog classes, so even if you only own one dog you are still able to participate. The AMCV does have a requirement that participants must have competed in the 1‐dog class before progressing to larger team sizes for safety reasons. Equipment To participate in sledding activities with your dog you will require some specialised sledding equipment: Sledding Harness Scooter (for 1 and 2 dog teams) or gig Bungee line Limited Slip Collar Helmet Line (side) cutters The sledding harness is the most critical piece of equipment and is made to measure for each individual dog to ensure good fit. They are made from strong, lightweight webbing with padding around the neck and chest to maximise comfort for the dog and minimise the risk of injury. The bungee line is used to connect the scooter, rig or sled to the harness of the dog. This is a poly‐rope line around 2 metres in length which incorporates an elastic bungee section which acts as a shock absorber to minimise the risk of injury to your dog. Scooters and gigs are specially manufactured for the sport of sled dog racing, and are generally only available from a specialised sledding outfitter. A helmet is required for musher safety and line cutters are needed in case lines becoming severely tangled. Sledding Events & Training Days There are several types of events the club conducts involving sledding, from introduction and training days right through to long distance endurance events. The types of event on offer are as follows: Training and Introduction Days: Activities Introduction days & Sledding training days are a good start for anyone wanting to find out more about what is involved in dog sledding. Anyone is welcome to come along and the club supplies a limited range of harnesses and scooters at these events for members to borrow. Race Events: These are timed sledding events which offer 1‐dog, 2‐dog and 4‐dog classes, with trail distances being 2 – 4 km per dog for sprint race events (ie a 2‐dog team will be required to run a distance of between 4 and 8 km) and slightly longer for Maxi race events. Dogs must be over 12 months of age to participate in sled dog races. The AMCV also offers Junior and Pee Wee classes for the young “mushers” in the family. These are very short, fun events and everyone gets a prize. Excursion & Long Distance Events: Excursion events are a minimum of 16 km and Long Distance events are usually held in 3 heats over 2 days with a minimum distance of 25km per heat. Although these events are timed they are not a race (ie no winners or places are awarded). For a dog/driver to participate in an excursion event they must have completed at least one race event (in any team) during the season. Age restrictions apply. Details of sledding events are published on the website, in the club’s newsletter, The Malamute Mail, or can be obtained from the AMCV’s Sledding Co‐ordinator, Vice President (Activities) or Secretary. Page 5.4
Dog Showing in Australia by Wilma Livingston
(Updated 4/5/94)
Please note: All dogs (male & female) are referred to as "dogs" and all Exhibitors and Stewards as
male. For variety the Judge is referred to as female. "You" may include your dog.
Getting Started
Firstly, the dog must be registered with the controlling canine
body (in Victoria it is the Victorian Canine Association – referred
to as the VCA) and the owner must be a financial member of
that Association. You get the Registration papers from the
Breeder, and you must transfer the dog into your name.
You must have a supply of Entry Forms, which can be
purchased from Dogs Victoria www.vca.org.au, and from some
dog equipment vendors at dog shows.
Entering a Show
Shows are advertised in the VCA Gazette (VicDog), and if you
have any queries about any Show, you can phone the
appropriate Secretary. Malamutes are eligible to enter for any
Shows run by the Alaskan Malamute Club, or any All Breeds
Club, such as Lyndhurst Kennel Association.(but not the Hound
Club, Doberman Club, Fox Terrier Club etc.)
Shows are usually of two types - Championship or Open - but
Sanctioned Competitions are also run. The Classes each Club
is offering are advertised in the schedule for that Show. The
Ordinary Classes are numbered for each age group and sex,
(e.g. 1 Baby Puppy Dog, 4A - Junior Bitch), and the age groups
are defined on the back of the entry forms. Special Classes
(Sweepstakes, Owner Handler Bred, or Local) always specify
which dogs they are for and allocate a Class number.
The closing date is published, and the entry must be in to the
Secretary by that date, which is usually about four weeks before
the date of the Show. If you send an S.A.E. (stamped, selfaddressed envelope) you will get your exhibit number posted to
you, and you will know for certain that your entry has been
accepted. If you included an SAE but have not received your
number at least two days before the Show, phone the Secretary
to be sure you are actually entered before you go to the trouble
of bathing and grooming your dog, and travelling to the Show.
Filling Out Entry Forms
Make sure that you enter in the correct age Class i.e. the age
that your dog is on the day of the Show1. If you enter in the
wrong Class, the Secretary may put you in the Open Class,
which is not appropriate for dogs under three years of age who
have their own age groups.
Fill in all the relevant sections on the entry form, including
Breed, but not the height section which is not for Conformation
Shows. I recommend ordering a Catalogue, so that you can
follow what is going on at the Show.
Remember to enclose your cheque for the correct amount for
the Classes you want to enter, and a Catalogue. If the Show is
to be held at the Melbourne Showgrounds, or at KCC Park, a
$1.00 Ground Usage Levy will be incorporated in the charge for
your first entry.
It is usual to enter in the youngest Class for which your dog is
eligible, i.e. Class 2, Minor Puppy Dog - which is for male dogs
of six and not exceeding nine months of age.
Preparing for the Show
Bath and groom your dog thoroughly. If possible bath him two
days before the Show, so that his coat has a chance to regain
its natural oils. When his coat is dry, groom him thoroughly,
from his head to his heels, and his tail. If you brush him
thoroughly before you bath him, it will be easier afterwards.
Collect all your gear together (store it in a special bag,
especially for Shows) and remember to put in your Exhibit
Number.
Day of the Show
Try to get to the Show about one hour before the advertised
time for your Group. (Malamutes are in Group 6, but if the
Group is split, may be 6A, 6B or 6C.) Find out which ring you
1
For a multiple day show, such as the Melbourne Royal, the
dog’s age on the first day of the Show is used.
are in, and collect your
Catalogue. Check that
you are entered in the
correct Class. Take your
dog for a walk to relieve
himself, and clean up
any mess he drops. Give your dog a final grooming, put on the
Show Lead (a not too heavy Choke Chain, and a lead about 2540 cm long is recommended, and can be purchased from the
Dog Shop, or from suppliers at Shows). Pin or clip your Exhibit
number on the left side of your chest, or slip into a holder on
your left upper arm. Take your dog to the Show Ring.
At the Ringside
Be at the ringside before the start of your Group, as you may be
in very quickly. You never know how many dogs ahead of you
will not turn up, or how fast the Judge will be in her judging.
Look for the people wearing the numbers before yours, and be
ready to move when they do. Watch the dogs being judged
ahead of you, so that you will know the Judge's style of judging
before you go into the ring. Watch what the Steward does with
the dogs when he sends them into the ring, where they stand,
where the Judge is placing them to be judged, where she is
asking them to run, and where she sends them when she is
finished examining them for the first time, etc.
All the male dogs are judged before the bitches, and the
younger dogs go in first.
Make sure that you are in a position which enables you to hear
the Assembly Steward call your number, and make sure that he
knows that you are there. When he calls you, approach him,
ready to go into the ring when he tells you. Try to see which
dogs are first and last in your Class. If you are near the front of
your class, you must be very alert, as the dogs in front may not
arrive. If it is your first Show, tell the Assembly Steward or Ring
Steward as you go in, and he will tell you exactly what to do. If
there is a dog in front of you, basically you do what his handler
does. Listen to what the Steward tells you, and then listen to
what the judge tells you to do.
In the Ring
Keep your dog on your left side at all times, and do not let your
body get between the Judge and your dog.
Usually, the dogs are run into the ring one behind the other.
Run your dog at a steady trot - it is not meant to be a race keeping at least six feet between your dog and the dogs in front
and behind. You (or the handlers of the dogs up the front of the
class) will be told by the Ring Steward where to stop, and
sometimes you will be asked to go around twice. Gently pull up
where requested, again keeping a good distance between
dogs, and put your dog into a "Show Stance". The judge will
usually then look down the line of dogs. Do what you can to
make your dog look alert and bring his ears up, but always keep
him under control.
The judge will then examine every dog individually, often
moving him away from the 1ine of dogs to do so. You may
relax your dog until your time approaches. The Judge usually
starts by looking at the
head and examining the
teeth first, and working
down the body to the
rear. Hold your dog's
head firmly between
your hands while she
examines his mouth.
Continue to hold him
firmly by his collar while
the Judge is examining
the rest of him, but try to let her have a good view of the dog at
all times.
Gaiting or Moving Your Dog
Page 5.5
If you are asked to "Do a triangle" the Judge wants to see your
dog (not you) running STRAIGHT away from her (rear view),
then across (side view), then straight back to her (front view),
pulling up gently (do not adjust your dog at this time) about six
feet in front of the Judge. Line your dog, not yourself, up with
the judge. Hold that natural stance until the Judge dismisses
you. Usually she will say "Thank you" and may tell you to go to
the end of the line, or "Take him around to the end" in which
case she wants you to run your dog right around the ring to the
end of the line (and she will watch you). If you are not sure
what she said, or what she wants you to do, ask her again!
Sometimes she may just turn away to the next dog, or wave her
hand in a certain direction. Unless you are told anything
different, run your dog gently around to the end of the line (don't
cross immediately in front of the other dogs).
Sometimes a judge will say something like "Straight out and
back" or "Take him across" in which case she wants to see your
dog running straight away from her, turning and running straight
back, again pulling gently up into a natural stance about six feet
from her.
Remember that she is trying to see how he gaits (moves), and
how balanced he is when he pulls up. If your dog breaks into a
gallop she cannot assess him, and it is probably because you
are running him too fast. It is very important for the Judge to be
able to assess your dog's gait, so if necessary, take him back
and start again. It is better to have a dog just loping along in a
slow trot than galloping. Moving off slowly helps.
Finishing
As the last dog steps up to be examined, you should start to get
your dog in position for the Judge to have her last look, and
make her decision. Make the best of your dog - stand him
squarely, with his front legs and the hocks of his back legs
parallel and try to make him look alert (sometimes gently
clicking your fingers, or using a small piece of food, or a small
squeaky toy helps), but keep him under control. Try to keep
one eye on the Judge, and one eye on your dog, and another
eye on the other exhibitors, at all times when you are in the
ring.
If she selects your dog, the judge will call you out and tell you
your place. There are various ways of doing this - one judge
will say "Thank you" and point to each dog in turn, another will
just point, another will look at you and hold up one, two or three
fingers, while others will be very specific and say "Thank you,
Sir, I'll have your dog first".
Leaving the Ring
If you have been chosen as 1st, 2nd or 3rd, gently praise your
dog for being good, and move to a position in front of the
appropriate marker, and wait until the Ring Steward writes
down your number, and dismisses you. The judge may give
you a ribbon, and shake your hand. Remember to keep a good
control on your dog - it is too soon to relax yet. Try to
remember to congratulate the other placegetters. If you have
not been chosen, praise your dog, and just move quietly out of
the ring in your place behind the others when they go. Try to
smile and be a good sport, no matter what, and don't get a
swelled head if YOU won, because the roles may be reversed
next week. You also congratulate the winners, even if you don't
agree with the Judge's decision.
Best Dog
If you have won your Class you will be required to go back into
the ring again to compete for Best Dog or Bitch, so move into a
position near the Assembly Steward, and be ready when he
calls you. If you have got second place, do the same, as you
may be required also. The oldest dog leads into the ring with
the youngest last. Again, do exactly as you are told by the
Judge, who will probably do things differently, and faster, this
time.
After Best Dog (at a Championship Show, he is Challenge
Winning Dog), is chosen, the second place winner in his Class
enters the ring to compete for Reserve Dog. That is the end of
the judging of the Males. All dogs should move away from the
assembly area to give the bitches room, but the Best Dog,
Reserve Dog, and all Class Winners should not go far as they
will be required again.
The bitches will then be judged in the same way, through to
Best Bitch and Reserve Bitch.
Best of Breed
The Best Dog and Best Bitch then enter the ring, with the male
leading, so the judge can select her Best of Breed (BOB), and
Runner-Up to Best of Breed (RUBOB). If the dog is chosen as
BOB, then the Reserve Dog enters the ring and competes with
the Best Bitch for Runner-Up. If the bitch is BOB, the Reserve
Bitch competes with the Best Dog for Runner-Up.
Baby Puppies
The exception to the above is the Baby Puppy Class winners,
who are too young to compete for Best Dog/Bitch, but will be
required for the Run-off and if they win that, Group Specials.
Run-Off for Class Winners
After the RUBOB is chosen, all Class Winners who have not
been eliminated are required back in the Ring for the Judge to
choose the best of each age class. Only the winners of the
Run-off go into the Group Specials.
End of Breed Judging
That is then the end of the Breed Class judging, and everyone
can move away until all the rest of the breeds in Group 6 have
been judged. If you have not won your Class, or got RUBOB,
you may go home, if you wish. It is always a good idea to
check with the Steward to make sure that you will not be
required again that day. If you have won, you are eligible to
present your dog for Group Specials12. Check your Catalogue,
and keep an eye on what is going on in the Ring, so that you
will be ready for the Specials, which usually follow straight after
the Siberian Huskies, and St. Bernards.
Group Specials
All Best of Breed winners go into the ring in catalogue order
(Malamutes are second, behind Akitas) for judging of Best
Exhibit in Group, with the Runner-Up's standing by. If the group
was split, the judge will first examine the dogs she has not
seen. If the Alaskan Malamute is selected for Best Exhibit,
then the Runner Up Malamute goes in for judging of Runner-Up
to Best Exhibit. The Best Exhibit is automatically the Best In
Group for the age class in which he is entered, and if the
Runner Up to Best Exhibit is from a different class, he is also.
This is where they hand out the big sashes and the trophies.
The Best Baby Puppy in Group (if there is one) is judged next,
Best Minor Puppy in Group etc. is judged, and so on, up to Best
Open. Remember that one, and possibly two, Classes have
already been eliminated, so if you are a winner, be ready!
Best In Show
If you are fortunate enough to win an In Group award, you will
be eligible to compete for an In Show award, where the
procedure is the same as for In group, except the competitors
are the winners from the other six groups.
Challenge Certificate
If your dog won the Challenge, remember to collect your
Challenge Certificate at the completion of Group Judging, or at
the end of the Show Specials. These certificates are not
available until your dog has finally been eliminated from the
competition.
You are now free to go home, show off all your goodies (if you
got any), and send in your Show Results for publication in the
Malamute Mail.
2
Attendance for Group specials judging is no longer compulsory in
Victoria. Any Challenge points awarded will not be forfeited.
Page 5.6
Class Winners do not compete for Group Specials if:
1. They have been eliminated at Breed level, by being beaten
in their Age Class Run-off, or by the dog or bitch who won
BOB or RUBOB, i.e. if the Open Dog gets BOB and the
Intermediate Bitch gets RUBOB, then both the Open Bitch
(beaten by the Open Dog) and the Intermediate Dog
(beaten by the Intermediate Bitch) have been eliminated,
even if they are Reserve winners. If BOB is Open Bitch,
and RUBOB is Intermediate Bitch, there both Open and
Intermediate Dog have been eliminated, even if one is
Challenge Winner. If you do not understand this, get
someone to explain it to you. A lot of exhibitors present for
Group Specials when they have already been eliminated at
Breed judging level, and could have left hours earlier.
2. The Best Exhibit In Group, or Runner Up in Group is from
your Age Class, e.g. if a Newfoundland gets Best Exhibit,
and she is from Junior Class, she eliminates all Juniors,
because she is automatically Best Junior in Group.
And if the Akita, who gets Runner Up is from the Puppy
Class, he is automatically Best Puppy, and all puppies are
eliminated. If both the Group winners are from Intermediate
Class, then only the Intermediates have been eliminated,
and all other Classes are eligible to compete.
3. You fail to answer your call to the ring, and are marked
absent. Once the Ring Steward calls you absent, you
cannot enter the ring. If you are the Challenge Winner, you
also lose your Championship points.
PLEASE NOTE:
Be aware of the VCA Rule which states that Baby Puppies can
only compete against other Baby Puppies, and are not eligible
to compete for Best Dog or Bitch. They are also not eligible to
compete for any Special Classes, except Baby Puppy
Sweepstakes.
Also, do nothing to identify your dog while you are in the ring.
Dogs are supposed to be anonymous while in the ring.

Please contact the AMCV Show Secretary or the Victorian
Canine Association (03 9788 2500) if you have any queries
about showing your dog.
Show Point Score Competition Rules
(The following rules were adopted at the General Meeting on 21st August, 2003) The competition shall run from 1st January, 2014 to 31st December, 2014. 1. All Championship shows held in Victoria shall count (except the Melbourne Royal & AMCV Championship Show) and the winners will be awarded from the ten (10) best results submitted. To be eligible for an award in the Show Point Score Competition, all registered owners of the exhibit must be current AMCV Members. Points will only be allocated if all registered owners are financial members of the AMCV at the time of the show for which results are being submitted. 2. The onus is on exhibitors to send their results to the Show Secretary, no later than one (1) month after the event together with a marked catalogue, (front cover and Judge’s page along with the Alaskan Malamutes fully marked) including the best of classes in breed marked with a circle or asterisk. The exhibitor submitting the results must also sign on the front of the catalogue. 3. One exhibitor may send in the results for all those at a show, but all exhibitors who wish their results to be submitted for the competition must sign the front of the catalogue as some people may not wish to be included in the Point Score Competition. 4. There is no limit to the number of results that can be submitted, however only a competitor’s ten (10) best results submitted will be published as the year progresses. Once a competitor has reached the ten (10) shows the Show Secretary will automatically adjust the points accordingly. 5. A complete record of shows submitted together with catalogues will be kept by the Show Secretary in the event of any dispute arising. 6. Trophies will be awarded to the registered owner/s of the winners at the time of submitting their dog’s last results. 7. The competition will consist of Most Successful Alaskan Malamute, Most Successful Dog, Most Successful Bitch and Class awards. 7.1 Most Successful Alaskan Malamute Dog and Bitch Most Successful Dog and Bitch will be awarded to the dog and bitch which has the most points from the ten (10) best shows submitted. Points will be awarded to Challenge winners on the basis of one (1) point for each dog or bitch beaten including one (1) for your dog or bitch, to a maximum of twenty‐five (25) points per show 7.2 Most Successful Alaskan Malamute Most Successful Alaskan Malamute will be awarded to the Dog or Bitch which has the highest number of points from their ten (10) best shows submitted. Points will be awarded to Best of Breed and Challenge winners on the basis of one (1) point for every dog or bitch beaten including one (1) for your own dog, to a maximum of twenty‐five (25) points per show. 7.3 Class awards Awards will also be given for: Best Baby Puppy ‐ Dog and Bitch Best Minor Puppy – Dog and Bitch Best Puppy – Dog and Bitch Best Junior – Dog and Bitch Best Intermediate – Dog and Bitch Best Australian Bred ‐ Dog and Bitch Best Open – Dog and Bitch Class points will be allocated as follows: 1 point for every dog or bitch beaten in your class 1st , 2nd and 3rd placings including one (1) for your exhibit, also one (1) point for every exhibit of the opposite sex if you take your class of breed, to a maximum of twenty‐five (25) points per show. Example: If there are 6 exhibits shown in a class, 1st wins six (6) points, 2nd five (5) points, 3rd four (4) points. If this 1st place winner then wins its class of breed and four (4) of the opposite sex were shown, it gains a total of ten (10) points. Page 5.7
Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.) Working Dog Title Program Updated March 2009 The Working Alaskan Malamute The Alaskan Malamute Club Victoria's Working Dog (WD) Program was initiated in 1997 to encourage people to work their dogs. Dogs can be certified in three fields: sledding, backpacking and weight pulling. The awards in sledding are WTD (Working Team Dog) or WLD (Working Lead Dog); in weight pulling WWPD (Working Weight Pull Dog); and in backpacking WPD (Working Pack Dog). Each field has a number of specific requirements which must be met, and these are set out in the Rules. For the Working Team Dog in sledding the dog must qualify in three different races, but beyond that there are a number of options as to distance, number of dogs per team, and what speed will be acceptable. A sledding award can be won by "excursion" miles as well as by racing, or a combination of the two. There is a freight team where a minimum weight per dog must be added to the weight of the sled: and a cross country team with a suggested minimum distance of 32 km per day. For the Working Lead Dog, the same requirements as for Working Team Dog apply, except that the dog must run single lead on a team consisting of at least three dogs. Working Weight Pull Dog. The dog must qualify in four separate events. On natural surfaces the dog must pull at least 8 times its weight (over a specified distance and within a specified length of time), and on artificial surfaces, 12 time its weight. Working Pack Dog. The packing requirements must be spread out over at least two trips, and must be on natural terrain, such as hiking trails or cross country. The dog must carry a weight equal to at least 30% of its own weight completing of a total distance of 64 kilometres, with each trip a minimum of 16 kilometres. Working Dog Excellent (WDX) Programs consist of the same fields but with considerably more stringent requirements in each. The corresponding titles are WTDX, WLDX, WWPDX and WPDX. Awards may be earned at events that are not AMCV‐sponsored and at non‐competitive events such as backpacking trips and sledding trips, however unless the circumstances are extenuating these events are to be conducted by a recognised organisation or club. In these instances an applicant must provide the required forms, signed by an approved official or impartial witness. The WD level requires a minimal amount of training and conditioning and should not be beyond the means of any sound Malamute. The WDX on the other hand was intended to recognise a very considerable achievement, and a dog without a good attitude and physical abilities would not be able to complete the WDX requirements as written. Owners of Alaskan Malamutes wishing to earn a working award may obtain the application forms by writing to the Secretary or any member of the Working Dog Certification Subcommittee. AMCV WORKING DOG CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTS Purpose To encourage people to work their Alaskan Malamute in the pursuits for which they were intended. To provide certification for those Alaskan Malamutes or associate dogs proven in these pursuits. To thus encourage the breeding of a better Alaskan Malamute. Scope The role of the Working Dog Title Subcommittee is to: 
establish criteria for certification of the working Malamute. 
establish those specialties for which a Malamute may receive certification. 
establish the rules for certification.  revise the criteria as required to improve the certification program. The criteria may be modified, amended, corrected, or otherwise changed, or the program may be discontinued upon the recommendation of the majority of the Subcommittee upon the approval of the AMCV membership. The working dog certification program shall be self supporting and thereby not be a burden to AMCV. Certification charges shall be sufficient to pay for printing and mailing of certificates and any unforeseen costs. Fields of Certification 
Working Team Dog 
Working Lead Dog 
Working Weight Pull Dog 
Working Pack Dog Eligibility a) The Alaskan Malamute shall be registered or registrable with a recognised kennel club (FCI recognised). b) Associate titles: Dogs that do not comply with the eligibility requirements of a) above may achieve the title of Associate Working Dog in each of the fields of certification. BASIC REQUIREMENTS All races or weight pull events entered shall be open events and must meet the requirements of this document. Open events are those that are not restricted to club members only and are sufficiently advertised so that non‐club members may participate for a nominal charge. Page 5.8
It is the responsibility of the dog owners to make sure that their dogs are sufficiently trained and conditioned that they pose no hazard to the health or welfare of themselves or other dogs participating in the event. Any team proven a hazard to other teams or mushers shall be disqualified from certification. Any driver/handler who displays poor sportsmanship, places any dog’s welfare in jeopardy or abuses his dogs shall be disqualified from certification. It is the responsibility of the dog owner to obtain and mail all the necessary documents, signatures and otherwise complete all requirements to get their dogs certified by AMCV. Dog does not have to run on an all Malamute team. In order to discourage irresponsible practices that could place the wellbeing of a dog in jeopardy, the event organiser has the right to disqualify a dog or team for any valid reason as agreed on by the working or event committee. CERTIFIED DOGS Any dog certified by AMCV shall be privileged to use the title in any AMCV literature. PROTESTS Any person wishing to protest the eligibility of a dog or dog team, the qualification of an event for certification purposes, or protest any violation of race rules or certification requirements, must do so immediately following the conclusion of the event. The protest may be verbal but must be followed by a written statement to the race Marshall or chief judge of the event within 10 days with a copy to the certification committee. The committee shall notify the concerned parties of the protest in order that they may file a rebuttal. It shall be the responsibility of the certification committee to decide whether or not the protest is valid by a 2/3 majority vote. DOCUMENTS AND PROCESSING Any person found guilty of willingly falsifying documents in order to certify a dog shall be ineligible for certification. (Falsifying records may consist of a dog’s name, forging documents or otherwise making false claims to certify a dog). The Working Dog Title subcommittee shall consist of the AMCV Vice President ‐ Activities (Chairperson), the three AMCV working Activities Co‐
ordinators (Sledding, Weight‐pull & Backpacking Co‐ordinators), plus one other Committee member to be appointed by the AMCV Committee following the Annual General Meeting. This additional subcommittee member should preferably have experience in all three working activities, and preferably have titled dogs in some or all of the activities (Excellence level preferred). Certification application forms may be obtained from the Working Dog Title Subcommittee Chairperson, AMCV Secretary or can be downloaded from the AMCV website. The completed forms, with payment, shall be returned to the AMCV Secretary, and will be forwarded to the Working Dog Title Subcommittee for review. If the applicant has completed the requirements and documentation to the satisfaction of the Working Dog Title Subcommittee, the application will then be tabled before the AMCV Committee for approval and the member notified of the outcome. OFFICIALS Judges, or other necessary officials may be AMCV members or other persons the Committee recognises and accepts as having necessary qualifications. Applications from competitive events must be signed by an event official. Officials for approving a packing excursion shall be impartial persons accepted by the committee as having the necessary qualifications and integrity. If a club event the witness may be club official or event organiser. If an individual event, the witness must be experienced in the field being assessed, preferably who has completed titles to the AMCV WD or WDX standard, and is sufficiently experienced to assess the ability of the dog and, if necessary, be prepared to disqualify the participants if the standards are not being met or if the dog’s wellbeing is in jeopardy. The mailing address of the official must be provided on the application form. Definitions Race Marshall is appointed by and reports to the race giving club, but has complete and full charge and responsibility for the race from the time it starts through to its completion. All other officials report directly to him and are responsible to him in all matters. He has the final word and the power to cancel or stop the race under extenuating circumstances, weather or trail conditions. Can disqualify or refuse teams at the start, at his discretion. He must be experienced, capable and responsible expert in the sport of dog racing. He will chair the drivers meeting, officials meeting and protest committee. Time Recorder is responsible for the recording of the time made by all teams during the race. He may have an assistant known as a recorder. He is responsible to the race Marshall. It is his responsibility to use proper and adequate equipment for this purpose. He shall act on the protest committee. Chief Judge shall report and be responsible to the race Marshall. He shall be in charge of the judges, the dog marker and his assistants. He shall deal directly with all drivers and will receive any protests or complaints. He shall be in charge of starting and finish line, and remain at this position during all heats of the race. He will examine teams at the start and finish and has power to disqualify dogs unfit to run in his opinion. Trail Judge shall report directly to the race Marshall and is responsible for laying out, preparation of, and marking the race trail. He should be familiar with the requirements of a race trail suitable for dog teams, to do his utmost to prepare a trail that will not have dangerous corners, road crossings, etc. that can be hazardous to dogs and driver. He is responsible for patrolling the race trail during the race, and placing the trail stewards at locations as may be required. Protest Committee shall consist of race Marshall, chief judge, trail judge, and time keeper to settle all disputes, complaints and protests. To levy all penalties and disqualifications. Decisions of this Committee are final and irrevocable. Spotter and Trail Steward is a person located at corner or intersection of trail, responsible for directing teams in corrections and reporting any incorrect occupants to trail judge. Racer is a person participating in a race or races. Trainer is a person who trains sled dogs for racing, freighting or weight pulling. Page 5.9
SLEDDING EVENT RULES AND REQUIREMENTS 
Sledding ‐ snow or wheeled cart. 
Races shall be held under AMCV or ISDRA rules plus any amendments created by the officiating club’s race rules, as long as they do not change the basic requirements of AMCV/ISDRA rules. 
The applicant shall pay the costs of entries plus payment to the AMCV for certification processing. WORKING TEAM DOG To earn the "WTD." title the following requirements must be met: A. Vehicle may be snow sled or wheeled cart. B. Team does not have to be all Malamute. C. Dog does not have to run on same team each time. D. Certification may be achieved by one of the following two methods. Method 1 ‐ Racing A. Dog must qualify in three different races. The races may be any class. the dog may run in any combination of three races. Minimum number of teams competing is three. Races must be run under ISDRA rules or the rules must have been approved by the Committee. Each heat may count as a race as long as it fulfils the above requirements. 1. The team must complete the race in an acceptable speed as determined by the committee. Under normal conditions this will be 14.5 KPH for the sprint class and 11 KPH for freight races. Under conditions of extreme weather or terrain, the Committee may accept a slower average time. 2. OR the team must complete the race in the top 30% of the competition. B. Required distances will be determined by the class in which the dog is running. Required distances will be 1.6 kilometres for each dog on the team with a minimum of 4.8 kilometres required. The freight class shall be a minimum of 8 kilometres with a minimum of 20 kilograms for each dog on the team added to the weight of the sled/gig. Method 2 ‐ Racing A. Dog must accumulate a minimum of 40 race kilometres. The dog must have completed the course in all races considered. Races must be a minimum of 8 kilometres if a freight race. Distances of Method 1 apply. B. The dog must complete all races in an acceptable amount of time as determined by the Committee – see Addendum. C. All events must be certified by a race official or an impartial witness – See addendum. Method 3 ‐ Excursion Dog must accumulate a minimum of 65 sledding excursion kilometres. Dog or dogs must pull sled a minimum of 16 kilometres per excursion. An event official or impartial witness must sign the form to be sent to the Committee verifying proof of distances and dog or dogs competing – see addendum. Method 4 ‐ Combination racing and Excursion One or two 16 kilometre or longer races may count towards the total of 65 excursion kilometres. Race events must comply with the requirements of Method 2B & C. Races that comply with methods 1 & 2 above may be combined with excursion kilometres to a total of 65kms. In addition: 
For an event to count towards a WTD or WLD title the dog must be working and contributing to the team effort. 
To constitute an “acceptable” speed under Methods 2, 3 and 4 the team must achieve the following: ‐ Race events (less than 16 km) – average of at least 11.2 kph ‐ Excursion distance events* (16 km or more) – average of at least 10 kph *teams that have completed a heat of at least 16 continuous kilometres at a speed between 10 – 11.2 kph can opt to have that event counted as an excursion for the purpose of the Working Team & Lead Titles under methods 3 and 4. Addenda A. Each heat shall be counted as a race for the following reasons. 
Heats are occasionally run to establish the top teams in each heat. The top teams or team then running in a final heat. 
Occasionally the first heat is completed, but musher, dogs or equipment may be too damaged to compete in the next heat or heats. 
A change in weather or other conditions may cause heats to be cancelled. B. When certifying by accumulating 40 race kilometres, completing one race of 40 kilometre or more is qualifying. C. Witness – must be acceptable to the working committee. Must be impartial (ie friend, relative or neighbour not suitable). Needs to be someone with knowledge of rules and experience in sledding. WORKING LEAD DOG To earn the "WLD" title the following requirements must be met: A. DOG MUST RUN SINGLE LEAD on a team consisting of 3 dogs minimum. B. Lead dog requirements are identical to those for working team dog. C. Dog does not have to lead the same team each time to qualify. D. Dog must run on the LEADING team if 2 or more teams are travelling together. Page 5.10
WORKING TEAM DOG EXCELLENT To earn the "WTDX" title the following requirements must be met: A. Race rules shall be AMCV, ISDRA, other nationally recognised rules, or rules previously approved by the committee. B. Dogs may run on any size team and need not run on the same team for each event. Sledding may be Alaskan style or Nordic style (single file team pulling a pulk). C. Teams must pull sleds or wheeled carts. D. Total mileage for all applicants shall be 290 kilometres. The distance of each event will be as determined by the committee depending on terrain and weather conditions and must be completed in an acceptable speed as determined by the committee. However, generally speaking: 1. Races must be a minimum of 96.5 continuous kilometres or two or more heats of at least 64 kilometres where the applicant has completed at least two consecutive heats. 2. Backcountry excursion trips shall be a minimum of 96 kilometres and shall incorporate backcountry areas inaccessible by regular vehicles. The team must travel as a self‐sufficient unit hauling supplies necessary for the trip. Examples of suitable places are Forests, parks or other areas. If the trip takes place in a Wilderness type area where there are no defined trails and dogs may be expected to break trail, the trip must be a minimum of 64 kilometres. 3. Under no circumstances will acceptable distances be less than 75 kilometres ran in consecutive heats of 25 kilometres over 2 days. 4. The team must complete the event in an acceptable speed as determined by the committee. Under normal conditions this will be 14 kilometres per hour or 11 KPH for freight and cross‐country races. Under conditions of extreme weather or terrain, the Committee may accept a slower average time. 5. Under no circumstances will an acceptable speed be less than 10 kilometres per hour or in the case of a freight event, 8 kilometres per hour. 6. If participating as a freight class, teams must carry a minimum of 20 kilograms per dog added to the weight of the sled or cart, not including the musher. E. Dogs must be at least 24 months old. In addition, evidence of a vet check having been undertaken no more than 4 weeks prior to the event in question, must be provided on the day of the event for any dogs over the age of 7. The vet check must assess the dog’s suitability to take part in strenuous exercise. Owners of dogs over 7 years of age are also required to sign a disclaimer denoting that the owner(s) & or musher of the dog will take responsibility for whatever circumstances that may arise from any such event. WORKING LEAD DOG EXCELLENT The WLDX award shall be for dogs who have completed requirements for the WTDX, who have completed at least 75%* of those requirements running single lead in a team of at least three dogs, where that team is also the lead for approximately 50% of the time if several teams are travelling together. * The 75% requirement for a dog to be in single lead of a team of at least 3 dogs applies to the total of 290 km, and not to each qualifying event. WTDX & WLDX 
For an event to count towards a WTDX or WLDX title the dog must be working and contributing to the team effort. 
Witness – must be acceptable to the working committee. Must be impartial (ie friend, relative or neighbour not suitable). Needs to be someone with knowledge of rules and experience in sledding. WORKING WEIGHT PULL DOG To earn the "WWPD" title the following requirements must be met: A. A dog must qualify in 4 separate events. Dogs must be weighed before each event. 1. On natural surfaces such as snow or dirt the weight pulled must equal or exceed 8 times the dog's weight. 2. On artificial surfaces such as concrete, carpet etc, the weight pulled must equal or exceed 12 times the dog's weight. B. ISDRA, AMCA, IWPA or AMCV rules must be used in qualifying for a weight pull certificate. Working Weight Pull Dog Excellent To earn the "WWPDX" title the following requirements must be met: A. ISDRA, AMCA, IWPA, AMCV or other previously approved, nationally recognised rules shall be used. B. All dogs must be weighed at each event. C. Dogs must qualify in 5 competitions by: 1. Pulling 14 times his body weight on snow with a sled. 2 Pulling 16 times his weight on any other natural surface with a wheeled cart. 3. Pulling the following weights by weight class, on a man made surface: • 27‐36 kg class ‐ 23 times the dog's weight • 36‐45 kg class ‐ 21 times the dog's weight • Over 45 kg Class ‐ 19 times the dog's weight 4. In addition to requirements 1, 2 or 3 the dog must place in the top 1/3 of his weight class in each event. In the event the top 1/3 comes out as a fraction, that dog will qualify. 5. If at a competition over 75% of the dogs pull the required weight, that pull will be disallowed. Page 5.11
WORKING PACK DOG To earn the "WPD" title the following requirements must be met: A. Dog must be a minimum of 18 months of age. B. Dog must carry a daily initial weight equal to a minimum of 30% of the dog's weight. This weight shall not decrease except by normal consumption of items such as food or water. The final pack weight must be at least 75% of the initial pack weight requirement. C. Pack trips must be on natural terrain such as hiking or cross country trails, but should be restricted to marked trails for safety purposes. Suitable locations for pack trips include State Forests, parks, hiking and undeveloped natural terrain. D Dog must pack a minimum of 64 kilometres. Each trip must be a minimum of 16 kilometres per day. E. Elevation gain may be substituted for kilometres in the following manner: 300 metres of elevation is equivalent to 1.6 kilometres of flat terrain. Elevation gain will be figured as the difference between the highest and lowest points of the trip. F. Packing requirements shall be spread out over a minimum of 2 trips. G. An impartial witness or Committee representative must sign the form to be sent to the Committee verifying proof of distances, weights and dog competing. WORKING PACK DOG EXCELLENT To earn the "WPDX" title the following requirements must be met: A.
Dog must be a minimum of 24 months of age. B.
Dog must have successfully completed at least one hike to the WPD standard. C.
The dog's weight and the weight of his pack must be verified by an impartial witness or trip official prior to the start of the trip. The dog shall carry an initial load of at least 30% of his body weight. The weight carried shall not decrease except by normal consumption of items such as food or water. The final pack weight must be at least 50% of the initial pack weight requirement. D. Pack trips must incorporate backcountry trails with the dogs and hikers carrying equipment necessary for the trip. Hikers must be self‐sufficient and may not receive outside assistance other than in cases of emergency, for provision of water or medical aid. Backcountry is a remote area, inaccessible and unsuited to regular vehicular traffic at the time of the trip, where support and aid is not generally available. Campouts will be necessary due to the distance requirements. Campouts may take place in the backcountry, at trailheads, roadside camping areas and the like, but not at commercial campgrounds or established accommodation. Suitable locations for pack trips include State Forests, parks, hiking and undeveloped natural terrain. E. A total of 192 kilometres shall be completed in 1 to 3 trips. F. Each trip shall be a minimum of 64 kilometres with an average of 16 kilometres per day on travelling days under normal conditions such as maintained trails and normal weather conditions. Day trips from the base camp must adhere to the weight requirements unless the applicant does not wish to include those kilometres in the trip total. On the second and subsequent days of hiking, the dog must commence with at least the final pack weight of the previous day, providing the weight is within the specified guidelines. G. Because some trips will take place in mountainous terrain, each 300 metres of elevation gain may be substituted for 1.6 kilometres of the total kilometres requirement. APPLICATION FORMS AMCV Working Dog Title Application forms can be obtained from the relevant co‐ordinator or the Secretary. A fee of $30.00 is payable upon submission of applications. Please note that AMCV Working Dog Titles are not recognised by the ANKC, and may not be used in any VCA/ANKC publication. Prepared by the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria Inc. Amended January 1999,July 2006, June 2008. Last Revision dated 12 March, 2009 Page 5.12
Inc Reg No. A0016353X
HEALTH PROBLEM REGISTRATION FORM
This form is for reporting of any health problem in Alaskan Malamutes. By monitoring the incidence of all health
problems the AMCV hopes to identify health problems in the breed and to deal with them before they become
widespread. It is only with knowledge of problems in the breed that we can begin to eliminate or reduce health
problems. The data will remain confidential, and will be used to compile a record of health problems in the breed,
their incidence and prognosis. Veterinary reports would assist but are not essential.
STRICT CONFIDENTIALITY OF THE RESULTS WILL BE ASSURED.
Your Name:
......................................................................................................
Date: .............................
Address:
............................................................................................................................................................
Email Address:
.................................................................................................
Phone: .....................................
DOG DETAILS:
Pet Name:
............................................................
Sex: ..................
Age: ...................
DOB: ...................
Registered Name (preferred but optional): ...................................................................................................................
Diagnosis / Nature of health problem: ..........................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
Age of onset: .................................................................................................................................................................
What symptoms did / does your Malamute exhibit?: ....................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
What treatment is being / was received?: .....................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
Is / was the treatment successful?: ..............................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
What is the prognosis for your Malamute?: ..................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
Please mail this form to:
AMCV Secretary, PO 41 Hurstbridge VIC 3099
Please feel free to copy and distribute this form to local clubs and owners/breeders who may not be members as all
data is of importance. Any queries or requests for further information can be directed to the AMCV Health Officer.
Section 6: Forms
Page 6.1
ALASKAN MALAMUTE CLUB, VICTORIA (Inc.)
Incorporations Reg. No. A0016353X
CANINE HIP & ELBOW DYSPLASIA SCHEME REPORT FORM
Please use BLOCK LETTERS
ANKC Registered Name: ........................................................................................................................................................
ANKC Registration Number: ..................................................
Date of birth: ...............................................
Tattoo/Microchip Number: ...............................................
Sex: M / F
Name of owner: ......................................................................
Date Radiograph taken: ..........................................
Address: ..........................................................................
..................................................................................................................................................................................................
Sire
PGS
PGD
Dam
MGS
MGD
I hereby declare that:
(a) the particulars above are correct and relate to the dog submitted for radiographic examination.
(b) The dog has not previously been submitted for scoring by the AVA Panel or any individual reader.
(c) I give permission for the results of the radiograph to be used at a future date for the purpose of statistical research which
will be published and for use by the ANKC on the internet
 Yes  No
NOTE: THE MINIMUM AGE FOR ASSESSMENT IS 12 MONTHS.
Owner’s signature: .................................................................................................................
Veterinary Surgeon submitting
(A) Hip radiograph of anaesthetised dog 
Date: ................................................
(B) Elbow radiograph 
Identification sighted (please tick appropriate box(es)):
Tattoo Number 
Microchip read  Pedigree registration papers 
Name: ........................................................................
Clinic: ....................................................................................................
Address: .................................................................................................................................
Phone: ......................................
Signature of Veterinary Surgeon: ..........................................................................................
Date: ........................................
Advice to Veterinary Surgeon:
Hip Radiograph: One view of the dog’s pelvis is to be taken under general anaesthesia. A high quality radiograph is required
and any incorrectly exposed or poorly positioned films will not be read but returned for a repeat X-ray.
VIEW: EXTENDED VENTRO-DORSAL PELVIS.
The radiograph should cover an area from the iliac crest to the stifle joint. The femora should be parallel and the stifles rotated
inwards so that the patellae lie in the centre of the trochleae of the femora. Care should be taken to ensure that the pelvis is
square.
LABELLING:
The radiograph should be labelled with (a) either the dog’s tattoo or microchip number, (b) the date, (c) left and right.
The radiograph, cheque for $56.25 made payable to “AVA Ltd” and completed application form should be sent to:
AVA HIP DYSPLASIA SCHEME
PO BOX 4257
KINGSTON ACT 2604
1.
2.
DISCLAIMER OF LIABILITY; No liability will be accepted for any circumstances of canine hip and / or elbow dysplasia not mentioned in this
report which manifests after the date of this report.
DISCLAIMER OF LIABILITY TO THIRD PARTIES: This report is made solely for the use and benefit of the owner named herein and no
liability or responsibility whatsoever is accepted for any third party who may rely upon this report wholly or in part. Any third party acting or
Updated Feb 2011
relying on this report wholly or in part does so at their own risk.
Section 6: Forms
Page 6.2
Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.)
Incorporations Reg. No. A0016353X
CANINE HIP & ELBOW DYSPLASIA SCHEME REPORT FORM
Please print clearly & use BLOCK LETTERS
Dog’s ANKC Registered Name: .....................................................................................................................................................................
Dog’s ANKC Registration Number: ................................................
Date of birth: .........................................
Tattoo/Microchip Number: .............................................................
Sex: ....................................
Name of owner: ..............................................................................
Date Radiograph taken: ..................................................
Address: .........................................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Sire
PGS
PGD
Dam
MGS
MGD
RADIOGRAPHIC REPORT
FILM QUALITY:
POSITIONING:
Satisfactory
Satisfactory
Underexposed
Overexposed
Tilted lateraly left / right
HIP JOINT
RIGHT
Extraneous marks
Femora not sufficiently extended
Femora not evenly extended
LEFT
Comment
Norberg Angle
Subluxation
Cranial acetabular edge
Dorsal acetabular edge
Cranial effective acetabular rim
Acetabular fossa
Caudal acetabular edge
Femoral head / neck exostosis
Femoral head recontouring
TOTAL
TOTAL SCORE (Maximum score 106):
Breed Average Score:
ELBOW GRADE:
RIGHT
0
1
2
3
(
mm)
LEFT
0
1
2
3
(
mm)
Date submitted for examination: ......................................................................
Reference No.: .............................................................
Date examined: ................................................................................................
Date returned: ...............................................................
Radiologist Number: ........................................................................................
AVA HD Secretary: ......................................................
TAX INVOICE
AVA Ltd ABN 63 008 522 852
Name: ...............................................................................................................
Company: ..........................................................................................
Position: .......................................................................
Phone: ..........................................
Fax: .................................
Address: .........................................................................................................................................................................................................


Hips @ $56.25 per dog (GST inclusive)
$ .......................
Please make cheque payable to AVA Ltd
Elbows @ 13.20 per dog (GST inclusive)
$ .......................
and send with all copies to:
Total amount payable (GST inclusive):
Section 6: Forms
$ ......................
Page 6.3
AVA Hip Dysplasia Scheme, PO Box 4257, Kingston ACT 2604
Inc Reg No. A0016353X
THYROID RESULTS SUBMISSION FORM
This form is for registering of thyroid results for Alaskan Malamutes, with the main aims being to determine the incidence of true
hypothyroidism in our breed and the normal range of thyroid hormone for the Alaskan Malamute breed.
RESULTS ARE REQUIRED FROM ALL DOGS including those with normal thyroid and/or no symptoms, as well as those with
symptoms or illness. Veterinary reports are NOT required.
STRICT CONFIDENTIALITY OF THE RESULTS WILL BE ASSURED.
OWNER’S DETAILS:
Name: ...........................................................................................
Date submitted: ............................
Address:
................................................................................................................................................................................
Email Address:
................................................................................................................................................................................
MALAMUTE’S DETAILS:
Age:
.......................
Pet Name (optional): .........................................................................................................................
Sex:
MALE / FEMALE
ENTIRE / DESEXED: Date of desexing: ...........................................
Malamute’s Registered Name (optional): ..........................................................................................................................................
TEST RESULTS Please complete as many sections as you can. Reference ranges and units of measurement are vital.
Dog’s result
Measurement Unit
Normal Reference Range
Date of tests: ………………………
e.g. nMol/L pmol’L etc.
Free T4 (FT4)
TSH (Thyroid Stimulating Hormone)
TgAA
Other Test results: e.g. Total T4 (TT4), Cholesterol or any other test results that may be relevant
Test
Result
Measurement Unit
(if applicable)
Normal Reference Range
(if applicable)
Reason for test: BREEDING / HEALTH PROBLEMS / HEREDITARY REASONS Other: ..........................................................
If the test was done due to the dog experiencing health problems, please list symptoms:
.............................................................................................................................................................................................................
What treatment was received as a result of this testing?: ..................................................................................................................
.............................................................................................................................................................................................................
Was the treatment successful?: YES / NO
If Yes, please state the nature of the improvements seen in your dog.
.............................................................................................................................................................................................................
Thyroid levels are affected by factors such as vaccinations, unrelated illnesses, heat cycles, strenuous training (please provide
details), stresses etc. please state if your dog had experienced any of these prior to testing, details and date:
.............................................................................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................................................................................................................................................................
Please mail this form to: AMCV Secretary, PO Box 41, Hurstbridge VIC 3099
or
Email to: [email protected]
A copy of this form is also available on the AMCV website at www.amcv.org.au. Please feel free to copy and distribute this form to local clubs
and owners/breeders who may not be members as all data is of importance. Any queries or requests for further information can be directed to
the AMCV Health Officer.
Office use only
Section 6: Forms
Date received:
Page 6.4
Reference No.
Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.)
Incorporations Registration No. A0016353X
LITTER REGISTRATION FORM
1. Complete all details on this form.
2. Attach a copy of the pedigree papers for both sire and dam of the litter.
3. Attach a copy of the thyroid, eye and hip & elbow dysplasia x-ray results of both sire and dam of the litter, in
accordance with the Puppy Register Guidelines.
4. Enclose a cheque for $25.00 made payable to the “Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.)”
5. Send the litter registration form, copies of pedigree papers and health testing results for sire and dam, and
payment to the AMCV Secretary who, upon approval, will pass it on to the Puppy Registrar.
Name of Breeder:
....................................................................................................................................................
Address:
...................................................................................................................................................................
Postcode:
...................
Telephone: Home
Email: ................................................................................................................
.....................................................
Work
Website: ............................................................................................
.......................................................................
VCA/ANKC No:
........................................
LITTER DETAILS
Name of Sire:
.........................................................................................................................................................
Name of Dam:
.........................................................................................................................................................
Date litter whelped:
............................................................................................................................................
Total No. Puppies available:
Further details:
..............
No. Males: .................
No. Females:
...........................
............................................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................................................
I declare that I am the registered owner of the dam of this litter, that I have been a financial member of
the Alaskan Malamute Club, Victoria (Inc.) for at least the last six months and that the information on
this form is correct to the best of my knowledge.
I will sell all puppies on the Register with their ANKC/VCA registration papers and will comply with the
AMCV Code of Ethics.
I will notify the Puppy Registrar as soon as all the puppies from this litter are sold, or if I no longer
have any male or female puppies from this litter available for sale.
Signed:..........................................................................................
Date:
........................................
The Puppy Registrar will continue to refer each registered litter for a period of 3 months, or as notified. A litter can
be registered for a further three months upon payment of an additional $25.00 fee. Members must be financial for
at least six months before a litter registration will be accepted.
Please complete and send with payment to
AMCV Secretary, PO Box 41, Hurstbridge VIC 3099
Updated January 2012
Section 6: Forms
Page 6.5

MEMBERS` INFORMATION BOOKLET

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