Magazine 2006 - Südtirols Süden
Transcription
Magazine 2006 - Südtirols Süden
13 JO UR N A L 2006 EXTRA//ACCOMMODATION 2006 Official list of accommodation, with prices! 9 8 FAX ENQUIRY JOU RNAL 2 0 0 6 To the Tourist Board South of Südtirol or another Tourist office To Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden Fax 0039 0471 633 367 Please send me copies of ARS VIVENDI JOURNAL & ACCOMMODATION or one of the 15 Tourist offices (see address on page 66) TOWN BROCHURE & SPECIAL OFFERS ACCOMMODATION Name of town Special requests First- and surname Street and house number Post code and town www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it Closing date: 15th November 2006 4 2 1 3 5 6 7 6 4 2 1 3 5 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Please insert your answer here: 8 9 10 11 12 2006 Int. Dialling code/tel. number Fax. number South Tyrolean Wine Road Julius-v.-Payer-Str. 1 I-39040 Tramin Tel. +39 0471 860 131 Fax +39 0471 860 820 www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it [email protected] JOURNAL TOURISMUSVERBAND SÜDTIROLS SÜDEN Pillhofstr. 1 I-39010 Frangart (Bozen) Tel. +39 0471 633 488 Fax +39 0471 633 367 [email protected] www.suedtirols-sueden.info MMM FIRMIAN Opening Easter 2006 WINE EMOTIONS Along the South Tyrolean Wine Road THE CRADLE OF SUMMER HOLIDAYS A nostalgic excursion to the Ritten mountain ‘BELLA FIGURA’ WITH MOUNTAIN VIEW Bolzano Bozen Fascinating Opposites w w w. s u e d t i r o l s - s u e d e n . i n f o EDITORIAL THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW Come to a holiday destination that all your senses can enjoy - giving you an experience second to none. A mixture of Mediterranean joie de vivre and a sunny climate, picturesque vineyards and majestic Alpine backdrops, romantic villages and urban flair, authentic customs and modern elegance. The South of Südtirol offers you all its typical landscape and culture, features which mark this region south of the Brenner Pass. A holiday destination full of highlights. Visit the buzzing city of Bozen with its cultural treasures, museums, exhibitions, theatres, elegant pedestrian zones, as well as its attractive hotels and restaurants. The nostalgic Ritten mountain was once the centre of true summer flair. The typical Sarn Valley offers proud peaks and archaic villages. The wide Etsch Valley combines its famous wine road, excellent wines and picturesque villages with southern relaxation and classic South Tyrolean hospitality. The fascinating Trudner Horn Nature Park and unique Bletterbach canyon offer picturesque bathing lakes, quiet trails leading from vineyard to vineyard, apple orchards and sunny peaks with panoramic views. PORTRAIT//GEORG WEINDL Journalist and author, Emphasis on Cars and Tourism, published by the Frankfurter Allgemeine The South of Südtirol is ideal for enjoyable idleness and flattering elegance. You’ll find all styles of restaurants, from a cosy farmhouse to nostalgic guesthouses and great gourmet restaurants. A paradise for sportsmen and nature lovers with demanding mountain tours, idyllic hiking trails, comfortable for sporty cycling trips or refreshing water sports. A holiday region, which is still natural and down to earth, despite its numerous attractions. No obtrusive commercial action, but authentic and typical landscape full of vitality and joie de vivre. Zeitung, Die Welt, Stern, Capital, Merian etc. Qualified Economics Engineer Sun, mountains, lakes, culture, wine and gastronomy. Everything you need to enjoy your holiday. JOURNAL 2006 AV 3 SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL ARS VIVENDI JOURNAL 2006 10 MMM FIRMIAN Boys’ trip to the MMM Firmian At Easter 2006, the South Tyrolean extremist mountaineer Reinhold Messner will open a centre for his museum pieces at Castle Sigmundskron 29 THE CRADLE OF SUMMER HOLIDAYS Nostalgic excursion to the Ritten mountain It offers many artists and philosophers such as Sigmund Freund, inspiration and relaxation 4 AV JOURNAL 2006 15 WINE EMOTIONS Along the South Tyrolean Wine Road South Tyrol’s ascent to one of the world renowned wine regions of Italy 39 BELLA FIGURA WITH A MOUNTAIN VIEW Bolzano Bozen: fascinating opponents Where you can choose from the best the South and North have to offer. An interesting mix! CONTENTS ARS VIVENDI JOURNAL 2006 TYROLEAN TRADITIONS AND ITALIAN RELAXATION Cultural trip through the South of Südtirol 20 FORTRESSES AND CASTLES Straight through the Upper Etsch region with Herbert Rosendorfer 25 MOMENTS OF LEISURE AT THE LAKE True relaxation for your feet and soul 34 WHERE SIMPLE THINGS ARE TRULY SPECIAL Genuine customs and old crafts 44 LESS IS MORE Wellness and relaxation: natural and stylish 48 EUROPE’S UNIQUE CANYON Bletterbach canyon: time engraved in stone 52 PURE NATURE Trip into the Trudner Horn Nature Park 55 THE JOYS OF WINTER The South of Südtirol: quiet and romantic 56 EVENTS & HIGHLIGHTS The most important events throughout the year 59 COLUMNS EDITORIAL ZOOM//Making a good figure FOCUS//The best tips and news 40 SECONDS//Short break with Goethe WINE//Highlights CULINARY//Weeks GOURMET//Our best BACCHUS//Excellent wines CULTURE//Museums & churches AGENDA//In & around South Tyrol ENIGMA//A quiz about your holiday CONTACT//All addresses at a glance ARRIVAL//How to reach us 3 6 7 9 19 23 62 63 64 65 66 66 67 EXTRA//ACCOMMODATION 2006 Official list of accommodation, with prices! YOUR THOUGHTS ARE IMPORTANT TO US! Any criticism, suggestions, ideas, praise or reproach? Please let us know: Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden, Pillhofstr. 1, I-39010 Frangart (Bozen) [email protected] JOURNAL 2006 AV 5 ZOOM DO’S AND DON’TS FOR SOUTH TYROL LOVERS HOW TO CUT A FINE FIGURE AND AVOID LITTLE EMBARRASSMENTS Most of the time, it’s only the little things, which divide the experts and connoisseurs from the unsuspecting tourists. We have put together a list with which you can leave a good impression and enjoy your holidays even more. | by Georg Weindl WHAT YOU DEFINITELY SHOULD DO South Tyrol is blessed with elegant gourmet restaurants. Still, you should not forget to try some of the great traditional restaurants. Typical cuisine, a hearty atmosphere and friendly hosts await you. YOU DON’T NEED TO STAY ON THE RIGHT TRAIL. Why not enjoy a hiking trip early in the morning or at sunset? Delve into a great atmosphere and unique stillness in the South Tyrolean mountain world. COMPLETE STRANGERS WELCOME YOU. No need to worry! In many places it is still traditional to greet people when you meet them, even though you don’t know them. Exchange a smile and enjoy a little chat. TOP 5 THE ULTIMATE LIST OF DON’TS NUMBER 1 Call the locals Italians/Austrians/Germans. They are South Tyrolean citizens. NUMBER 2 Use the Italian names for South Tyrolean villages etc. NUMBER 3 Order pasta as an accompaniment. NUMBER 4 Drive to Bozen on a Saturday morning while it rains. Take the bus or train! NUMBER 5 Believe that all fast-driving cars with a Munich, Rosenheim or Starnberg registration plate are tourists. Wrong! These are tax-saving South Tyroleans citizens. 6 AV JOURNAL 2006 IN SOUTH TYROL, PEOPLE DON’T GET TOO WORRIED TOO QUICKLY. Even if you have to wait for a while for your meal to be served – no need to panic. Here, people go out to enjoy good company and not only to get a meal. Be gracious and discover how quickly time goes by if you enjoy yourself. WHAT YOU DEFINITELY SHOULD NOT DO CIAO! Everyone can say that! However, you should only use it with friends and family, and not when you speak to the waiter, your host or other people. I guess, you wouldn’t kiss the lady at the cashier’s desk in the supermarket, would you? A GLASS OF RED WINE BEFORE LUNCH. Recommended only if you intend to make yourself known as a notorious drinker. You better take a glass of white wine. DON’T ORDER DRY WINE IN A RESTAURANT. It’s too basic! People will identify you easily as an inexperienced tourist. SPAGHETTI WITH A FORK AND SPOON IS UN-COOL. The same is true for pasta as an accompaniment or ice cubes in your wine. If you order some ‘Törggelen‘, you should expect the waiter to get excited. You just ordered an old South Tyrolean custom. THE CLASSIC FAUXPAS. After a fine meal, you shouldn’t order a cappuccino or – even worse – a latte macchiato. This is the true barbarian style in the eyes of every connoisseur. Show some style and order an espresso or ‘caffè macchiato’. TAKE OFF YOUR SHIRT AFTER A HOT MOUNTAIN TOUR. But not in the restaurant or on the terrace. This would be looked at like visiting a church in your swimming trunks. AUTONOMY The South Tyrolean package and autonomous status guarantee the country of South Tyrol legislation and executive powers. It gives South Tyrol an extensive independence status towards the region and the state. For further information about South Tyrolean autonomy, please click www.provinz.bz.it/aprov/suedtirol FOCUS TIPS AND NEWS THEME PATH//‘FRIEDENSWEG’ The Kaltern ‘Friedensweg’ leads you from the centre of Kaltern to St. Peter in Altenburg. Seven stations invite you to rest and meditate. The five themes ‘moderation/wisdom/justice/faith and hope’ were designed by artists and adopted to the local environment. The sixth station (courage) is the Rastenbachklamm itself. The seventh (love) features the early Christian church ruins of St. Peter in Altenburg, which are probably the oldest church ruins in Tyrol. CLIMBING FANS The first climbing paths in South Tyrol were mostly created during World War I, in order to supply the soldiers at the Ortler and Dolomite fronts. Today, there are more than 80 climbing paths. An El Dorado for climbing fans are also the climbing gardens of ‘Marderwand’ between Kurtatsch and Graun, the ‘Unterlegstein’ in Fennhals, the ‘Sefnar Plottn’, the ‘Tanzbach-Knottn’ and the Samer Scharte in the Sarn Valley, as well as the climbing gardens in Truden, the climbing halls in Eppan and Tramin and the climbing wall in the Montiggl forest. SARN PINE ORIGINAL PINUS SARENTENSIS The Sarn pine tree, locally called ‘mountain blessing’, SECURED! is one of the oldest medical plants used in the Sarn The tight-rope garden HETZ in Terlan offers adventure for adults and kids at the highest level: have fun, walk on new paths, conquer frontiers, change look out points... Ideal for leisure and sports clubs, annual office outings, company days and family events. For further information, please call Tel. +39 0471 257 944 www.xsund.it Valley. Even the Celts used its healing powers. Today, the precious oils are obtained according to old recipes, whereby for every 1 kg of pure oil, 250 kg of pine needles are required. Nature and Wellness on www.trehs.com CRISP SOUTH TYROLEANS WHERE ANGELS LEARN TO FLY... At the Thuniversum, you can meet a number of angels. In the visitors centre in Bozen South, you can watch professional painters create these Thun ceramic arts. Surrounded by light, colour and sound, we will introduce you to our product range made during the last fifty years. www.thuniversum.it In an area of 18,000 hectares at an altitude of 250 to 1,000 metres, every year they harvest 961,000 tons of apples in South Tyrol. There are 14 cultivated types of apples including Golden Delicious, Red Delicious, Gala, Granny Smith and Braeburn. The orchards along the river Etsch form the largest linked cultivation area in Europe. Around 12% of the European harvest, as well as every third biological apple comes from South Tyrol. To check the various sorts, click www.suedtirol.info/produkte JOURNAL 2006 AV 7 LAKE KALTERN//Southern perspective 8 AV JOURNAL 2006 40 SECONDS SONG OF THE GHOSTS ACROSS THE WATERS Johann Wolfgang von Goethe A person’s soul Is like water: It comes from heaven, And returns to heaven. Again and again It comes down to earth, Changing constantly. It flows from the high, Steep rocky wall, Creating a fine ray. Like dust. In airy waves At the smooth rock. Welcomed, With a vale, It comes quietly Down. Cliffs Want to protect it. It resists Restless Step by step Down into the deep. It slowly moves along the valley And into the calm lake. It’s face. Like a star. The wind Makes waves. It moves the sea The soul of a person. You are like water! Destiny of mankind. You are like the wind! JOURNAL 2006 AV 9 CASTLE SIGMUNDSKRON NEAR BOZEN//The largest fortress in South Tyrol and centre-piece of the Messner Mountain Museums (opening: Easter 2006) BOYS’ TRIP TO THE MMM FIRMIAN | by André Bechtold 10 AV JOURNAL 2006 The boys wanted to see Dragobert again, so we drove to Frangart, to the road just below the shining globe. This is where it stands, the 25 metre long steel dragon with gleaming eyes and a huge tongue. In the forest, all around him, strange trees grow and many one-eyed people look down on us. After an hour of extensive observation, we intended to drive back to Bozen. Just then, my youngest son asked me whether it would be possible to re-build the fortress again. He was talking about Castle Sigmundskron! Several construction cranes reach out of the old walls and there were a number of roofers working on the ‘White Tower’. I said ‘No, the fortress is just becoming a new museum’. ‘Museums are boring’, said my oldest son. I replied: ‘Well, it’s not really a museum, more like a meeting room!’ And immediately I noticed, that he thought this was an even dumber idea. ‘The museum is called MMM Firmian and is organised by Reinhold Messner!’ ‘Reinhold Messner climbed Mount Everest and, last year, ran through the desert’, said our other son. I wanted to reply ‘Yes, and say he also conquered both Poles and hiked up mountains more than 8,000 metres without any oxygen supply – the first person on earth to achieve this’. But I was interrupted by my oldest son who asked: ‘And why does a mountaineer organise a museum? Can he do that?’ There and then, I decided to drive them up to the fortress in order to give them more insight about the castle’s history and the new museum. Soon, we arrived at the lower gate. But it was closed. A sign emphasised that unauthorised persons were not to enter this area. We sat down in the shade of the tower and I began to tell them a story: ‘Once upon a time, a long time before Ötzi was born, some peo- ple decided to settle on top of this hill. The place was ideal as it is situated at the edge of the so-called Bozen basin and one could see across the entire Etsch valley, towards the Schlern, the Mendel, the Ritten, Kohlern and into the Lowlands. For this reason, people lived here for a long time. At a later stage, the Romans came here and in Castelfeder and built in a fortress, which they called ‘Formicaria’ and later ‘Formigar’. During the Middle Ages, there was an Emperor called ‘Sigmund der Münzreiche’ and he had trouble with the Bozen bishop Nicolaus Cusanus. Sigmund drove Cusanus from the land and renamed ‘Formigar’ Sigmundskron. The name ‘Firmian’ is derived from the fact, that – during the 14th Century -, the counts of Firmian hired the fortress. For this reason, the fortress has two names today: in Italian ‘Castel Firmiano’ and in German ‘Castle Sigmundskron’. I knew that this was already enough information for my boys, apart from the fact that the castle was of great importance in the early days of South Tyrol’s history. On 17th November 1957, Silvius Magnago had organised the largest demonstration in the history of this country. 35,000 South Tyroleans came to the fortress in order to demand autonomy for the region of South Tyrol: the ‘Destiny of Trient’. One of my sons asked: ‘So many in this castle? Were there more than all the kids at the kindergarten?’ My oldest son answered straight away: ‘More people than you have ever seen in one place before.’ There was a noise at the wall. A lizard was running across the wall. We were silent. What would South Tyrol be today without this autonomy? I thought for a moment. My youngest son became impatient: ‘When will they open the door?’ He knocked at the old wooden doors. ‘Next year in April, just before Easter’, I replied. (2006) ‘Do we have to wait here until then?’ he asked and smiled. JOURNAL 2006 AV 11 ERICH WONDER// „Wilhelm Tell“ PORTRAIT//ANDRÉ BECHTOLD Qualified professor of the Middle Ages and freelance artist. From 1999 to end of 2003, he was the charismatic and creative project manager at the castles of Runkelstein and Marestch. He loves making music and enjoys the culture of South Tyrol, preferably on the back of his Hafling horse ‘Oma’. 12 AV JOURNAL 2006 ‘No, of course, not’, I said, ‘But before we go, I’ll tell you something about this new museum.’ ‘Just a question’, said my oldest son. ‘What does this Messner do all day?’ I had to laugh and said quickly: ‘Messner does not have a proper job. He enjoys life and does what he wants. He’s earned enough money to make this project possible.’ ‘Hey, that’s cool! But now, he must be old and cannot walk in the mountains any more, and therefore, he built a museum. Logical? Well, this museum shows us what his life is all about.’ I answered and said: ‘Messner is only 62 years old. And he still walks in the mountains. Maybe he’s not as fast anymore as he was years ago. Your idea about why he builds this museum is not too far off, though. I’ll try to explain it to you as best I can.’ ‘MMM stands for Messner Mountain Museum. The MMM is not only a museum but is several museums in one. One is at the Monte Rite in Belluno and is called MMM Dolomites. It presents things about the Dolomites, the rocks and climbing. Then, there is the MMM Juval. That is the castle, where Messner lives during the summer. You can visit the castle if you want and get information about the mountains in general and also about religious things. And in Sulden, with a good view to the Ortler mountain, you will find the MMM Ortles. It introduces us to the world of ice and crystal. There, you can stand in a room, press a button and hear the sound of an avalanche coming down.’ ‘A real avalanche?’, asked my oldest son. ‘No’, I said, ‘but it gives you the sound of an avalanche experience. And you also can see a Yeti.’ ‘What’s that?’ he asked. One of my sons answered: ‘A Yeti is a friend of the Yak!’ My youngest son wanted to hear more. ‘And what is a Yak?’ ‘Okay’, I said, ‘I have a suggestion for you. Why don’t we drive to Sulden tomorrow? We will have a look at the MMM Ortles and then you can find the answers to your questions – or what do you think? Yak and Yeti are still somehow a little secret. But now, we are here at Castle Sigmundskron and I just wanted to let you know that a 5th MMM is planned. It will introduce us to the profane world of the mountains and the work of the people living here. This museum will be called MMM Mountain people. Here in Sigmundskron, in MMM Firmian, the subject will be ‘The heritage of the mountains’. They say that Reinhold Messner will be here one day a week in order to talk to visitors. He has planned all of the museums by himself, where all the parts of the exhibitions come from his own collections. And then, they also plan special events, concerts etc.’ ‘And when people get hungry?’, asked my youngest son. I realised, we had to go. ‘When MMM Firmian is opened, they also will have a restaurant attached to it and you can sit in the shade, eat knödel and drink elderberry juice.’ This idea made them all hungry and we went home. On the way down, I looked back: Somewhere around here, in the mountain, there is supposed to be a tunnel, where King Laurin lives. I had to think about the questions, my own father asked Reinhold Messner: ‘What happens if the tunnel gets thinner?’ I really look forward to the opening of MMM Firmian. The boys will love it! Foto: Arne Schultz They plan to have a special kind of meeting room in Sigmundskron. The MMM Firmian will not only offer information about the arts, but will also present information about the mountains and its people. Pieces of art will be inserted at different points, bringing together a collective biography of alpine life. It is intended that visitors, work and the meeting room will from a type of open dialog. The emphasis is less on the documentation concerning the surrounding mountains, but more about the people and their mountains, as well as the areas close by and in the vicinity, offering curiosity and amazement. MMM Firmian is located at Castle Sigmundskron (south of Bozen) and has a truly central location in South Tyrol. This centre-piece of the total MMM project will open around Easter 2006. The full museum concept is as follows: MMM FIRMIAN MMM JUVAL Mountain Heritage – The Heritage of the Mountains, Bozen/Sigmundskron. Mythos Mountain – The religious Dimension, Kastelbell-Tschars, Tel. +39 348 44 33 871 MMM DOLOMITES Dolomites/Rock – The vertical World. Belluno, Monte Rite, Cibiana di Cadore, Tel. +39 0435 890 996, www.museonellenuvole.it MMM ORTLES Ice/Ortler – Ice and Crystal Worlds, Sulden, Tel. +39 0473 613 266 MMM BERGVÖLKER Mountain people – Profane World of the Mountains (Project phase) The entire MMM concept is the first, the largest and the most unique mountain museum in the world. JOURNAL 2006 AV 13 14 AV JOURNAL 2006 WINE EMOTIONS ALONG THE SOUTH TYROLEAN WINE ROAD South Tyrol is one of the oldest and smallest wine cultivation areas in Europe. Wine, culture and tradition are closely connected. Numerous generations of wine-growers have shaped the history of South Tyrolean wine cultivation. The discovery of grape seeds bears witness to the fact that grapes have grown here, long before the conditions were ideal. The richness of the range of wine can without doubt be traced back to particularly good climate conditions. In the North, the Alps form a protecting shield against the cold winds. From the South, the mild Mediterranean influence is noticeable. An average of 1,800 sunny hours ensures that the grapes truly feel at home in this region. The charming South Tyrolean vineyard is a synonym for extraordinary and memorable wines. | by Herbert Taschler JOURNAL 2006 AV 15 VERNATSCH GEWÜRZTRAMINER LAGREIN the typical South Tyrolean wine the South Tyrolean wine which is at home all over the world the South Tyrolean wine with international recognition An easily digestible wine for every occasion and every day. Young, fresh, fruity, dry and soft with little acid. Harmonic and mild with a fine, well-developed cherry and bitter almond tone. Kalterersee, St. Magdalene, Grauvernatsch, Meraner and all the other South Tyrolean Vernatsch wines are suitable for different types of local meals, go well with a speck and sausage supper and/or guide you comfortably through any menu. An aromatic wine with a bouquet of roses and cloves. Headstrong, dry and strong. With a fine flavour, full-bodied and intensive on the palate. A good accompaniment to seafood, prawns and lobster, to curry dishes, pate and strong cheese. Or simply take it as an aperitif or dessert wine. Ruby-red in colour with light violet tones, full-bodied and strong. Fruity and soft with a juicy aroma and soft tannins. A truly unique wine. Excellent accompaniment to typical dishes of the local cuisine, with game, red meat and strong cheese. Accepted origin: Kaltern Accepted origin: Tramin Accepted origin: Bozen Serving temperature: 13 - 15 degrees, cool but not cold Shelf life: 1 - 2 years Serving temperature: Shelf life: Even during the Bronze Age, settlers cultivated the oldest wine-growing area in the German-speaking region. The ‘Rhaetian wine’ from the Etsch country was admired by the Romans. In wooden caskets, bound by iron belts, the Rhaetians transported their wine, renowned as being ‘second to none’. It was even delivered to the King’s court. This is when the Romans learnt that wine ripens much better in wooden caskets, rather than in earthy amphorae. From the 8th Century, Franken and Bavarian cloisters bought some wine-growing estates in order to ensure a continued supply. The South Tyrolean wine cultivation was supported for more than 600 years by the Austrian regime. Lagrein and Vernatsch, as well as Gewürztraminer formed many old and local types of grapes along the vineyards. This is still the case today. During the second half of the 19th Century, international grapes moved into the vineyards of South Tyrol. 16 AV JOURNAL 2006 11 - 13 degrees 2 - 4 years Serving temperature: 16 - 18 degrees Shelf life: 3 - 5 years, good vintage even longer SOUTH TYROLEAN WINES ON THE WINNING LIST Today, the wine-growers of South Tyrol cultivate more than 20 types of grapes – and this only on 5,000 hectare of land. Less than one percent of the Italian wine comes from South Tyrol. However, the quality measures up to the excellent wines from the Tuscany or Piedmont regions. TIP: All awarded wines from the South of Südtirol are listed on page 63 VARIETY & QUALITY SOUTH TYROL’S GRAPES AND WINES Just as South Tyrol’s landscape is varied, so is the assortment of grapes available. There are three important types of grapes, which have their origin in South Tyrol: the Vernatsch – a typical fruity, fresh and easily drinkable South Tyrolean red wine ‘par excellence’, the Gewürztraminer – now found all over the world as well as the Lagrein, the South Tyrolean red wine of international acclaim. er is available as a fine and aromatic wine. In addition, South Tyrol’s wine cellars and wine-growing estates offer a broad variety of magnificent wines, made from the most valuable international grapes available. WHITE WINES BOZEN AND THE SURROUNDING AREA White grapes are covered by nearly 40% of all South Tyrolean vineyards. The trend is growing. Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay are at the top of the list representing more than 50% of the quantity. Nowhere else in Italy, do white grapes such as Gewürztraminer, Pinot Nero, Silvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Sauvignon, Veltliner or Kerner produce such fruity, fresh, typical and characteristic wines, as in South Tyrol. Framed by vineyards and orchards, the provincial capital of Bozen, where the rivers Etsch and Eisack merge, is situated in a wide valley basin. Bozen’s fame as a city of wine is based on two autochthonous wines: the St. Magdalene and the Lagrein. Some of the best vineyard regions of South Tyrol are the hills and slopes of the St. Magdalena region just above Bozen. Altogether, there are approximately 300 hectares of vineyards from which the St. Magdalene wine is produced. On the other side of Bozen, in the suburb of Gries, the South Tyrolean Lagrein has found its home in the deep and well aired stony grounds of the Talfer and Eisack rivers. The Lagrein wine from around Bozen is cultivated on approximately 250 hectares. RED WINES 60% of all vineyards in South Tyrol are red grapes. In this statistic, the Vernatsch grape has the most important role. The great red wines of South Tyrol enjoy international importance, such as the characteristic Lagrein, the elegant Pinot Nero, the strong Merlot and the expressive Cabernet. SWEET WINES The tradition of South Tyrolean wine history shows that dry wines were always cultivated. Unique exceptions are two classic South Tyrolean rarities: the fruity Rose Muscatel and the aromatic Golden Muscatel. For some years, the cellar masters of South Tyrol have produced impressive sweet wines. The South Tyrolean Passiti (straw wines), as well as the late vintage wines today count among the most desired sweet wines of Italy. SPARKLING WINE Since the beginning of the 19th Century, sparkling wine has been produced according to the classic bottle fermentation method. South Tyrol’s manufacturers of sparkling wines, produce about 150,000 bottles per annum in careful manual work. It is marked through its fresh, sparkling finesse, its lovely dry fruitiness and typical light yeast tones. A COLOURFUL MOSAIC VINEYARDS MARK THIS LAND At the slopes and hills of the Etsch Valley between Meran and Salurn, the vineyards rule the landscape. 52 of 116 towns in South Tyrol produce wine. The South Tyrolean vineyards are like a colourful mosaic of 5,000 individual companies, in which more than 10,000 people offer their best abilities and efforts. 16 wine co-operations, about 40 wine-growing estates and wine cellars, as well as a huge number of self-distributing wine farmers intend to make the best wines from the grape capital given to them. A discovery journey through South Tyrol’s varied vineyard landscape along the South Tyrolean wine road will surprise you. All around Bozen, you will find the soft but still strong St. Magdalene wine, as well as the characteristic Lagrein. In the Upper Etsch region and the Etsch Valley itself, you can taste excellent white wines and the famous Kalterersee-Vernatsch. In the Lowlands, with its home in Tramin, the Gewürztramin- PORTRAIT//ROBERT SCHERER The works of this freelance artist not only consist of various techniques of wall painting (fresco, sgraffito, mosaic), panel painting, drawing and print graphics, but also include marble sculptures and creations of glass. Worth seeing: the Puntaykeller of the wine cellars Erste & Neue in Kaltern, designed by Robert Scherer. www.erste-neue.it JOURNAL 2006 AV 17 UPPER ETSCH REGION The Upper Etsch area, for many a byword for South Tyrol’s traditional wine cultivation, is situated at the foot of the Mendel mountain range at the soft hills of the Western Etsch Valley between Bozen and Tramin. The wine-producing villages of Eppan and Kaltern are both rich in tradition and at the same time are the largest wine-producers in South Tyrol. The idyllic and famous Lake Kaltern makes an impressive Mediterranean backdrop. Eppan with approximately 950 hectares of vineyards is the largest wine village in the country. Just as each individual fraction offers a different characteristic in the large villages of St. Michael, St. Pauls, Girlan with Schreckbichl and Frangart, so each vineyard is varied and unique. Kaltern, with 760 hectares of vineyards, is the second largest wine village in South Tyrol, and is a byword for many for South Tyrolean wine as a whole: not only due to its famous lake, but also for its magnificent winegrowing conditions. THE LOWLANDS About one third of the wine-growing area in South Tyrol (approximately 1,700 hectares) is found in the wine villages of the lowlands in the South of Südtirol. Salurn with 400 hectares, Tramin with 380 hectares and Kurtatsch with 280 hectares are found at the top of the list. They are followed by Margreid, Neumarkt, Montan, Auer and Kurtinig, Pfatten and Branzoll. The individual vineyards with their different soils and many microclimates allow the cultivation of the entire grape assortment available. Despite this broad variety, there are some grapes, which are prominent and which find particularly suitable conditions for growth: such as the Gewürztraminer, Ruländer and Chardonnay in the white wines and the Cabernet and Merlot, as well as the Pinot Nero with its classic growing region in the higher locations of Montan and Salurn, for red wines. CENTRAL ETSCH VALLEY In the central part of the Etsch Valley between Bozen and Meran, lies the Terlan basin, which is famous for its white wines. The porphyry soil of the Terlan hills, covered by the river sand, with its warm and well-aired climate, allows special white wines to grow. These are full-bodied and contain particular mineral substances. The villages of Terlan and Andrian are right in the centre of the white wine cultivation area. The Pinot Bianco and the classic Terlan Sauvignon are in the forefront, followed by Chardonnay and the ‘Terlan’ without classification (at least 50% of Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay), Riesling, Müller Thurgau and Silvaner. Also the red wines of the central Etsch Valley have something to offer. Due to the climatic conditions and the sandy loamy soil in the lower locations, these are full-bodied and well structured. 18 AV JOURNAL 2006 BOZEN WINE TASTING In 1896, the 1st Bozen Spring Wine Market took place. Today, the Bozen wine tasting takes place in the famous Castle Maretsch, which is surrounded by wonderful vineyards. Wine producers and wine connoisseurs taste more than 300 South Tyrolean wines. www.weinkost.it CLOISTER WINE CELLARS The monks make the best wine, it is said. Three important cloisters dedicate their time to the art of wine-making: Cloister Muri-Gries near Bozen, the Stiftskellerei Neustift near Brixen and the cloister cellars of Pircher in Lana. www.muri-gries.com CRYSTAL CLEAR – SOUTH TYROLEAN GRAPPA In South Tyrol, there are five renowned distilleries today, among them the Psenner and Roner in Tramin and the Walcher in Eppan. These guarantee extraordinary quality in South Tyrolean grappa. The grapes only come from South Tyrol, where 100 kg of fresh grapes results in an average of 9 to 12 litres of grappa. South Tyrolean grappa producers are found on www.grappaweb.it WEIN.KALTERN Wine producers, tourist agents farmers and representatives of public life founded the ‘Projektgruppe Weindorf Kaltern’ (project group Kaltern wine village) in 1999. From this, the label ‘wein.kaltern’ developed. Today, there are also other labels such as wein.weg, wein.wegweiser, wein.magazin and soon wein.brevier, as well as wein.haus. www.wein.kaltern.com DID YOU KNOW, THAT the Fennberg is the highest Müller-Thurgau vineyard in Europe? From the grapes, which are harvested at about 1,050 metres above sea level, they produce the wine ‘Feldmarschall von Fenner’. Mölten has the highest-altitude sparkling wine cellar in Europe? Since 1979, the sparkling jewels are filled into bottles at an altitude of 1,200 metres above sea level. the oldest South Tyrolean grape found in Margreid still bears fruit? The vine was planted in 1601 and produces up to 80 kg of grapes every year. the Andrian wine cellar is the oldest wine-producing estate in South Tyrol? It was founded in 1893. Only four months later, the Terlan wine association became established. Eppan has the largest wine-cultivation in South Tyrol? It has approximately 1,000 hectares, which is about 20% of the entire South Tyrolean wine growing area and is the largest vineyard area in South Tyrol. For more information about the wine country in South Tyrol, click www.suedtirolerwein.com the Gewürztraminer grape comes from Tamin? Today it is cultivated in all five continents. WINE//HIGHLIGHTS 84th Bozen Wine tasting: End of April at Castle Maretsch in Bozen wein.kaltern – hiking, adventure, enjoyment on 23rd April South Tyrolean Pinot Nero Days in Montan and Neumarkt in May Gewürztraminer Wine Road in Tramin on 13th July Wine Culture Weeks in St. Pauls/Eppan from 27th July to 8th August Lorenzo Night in Bozen on 10th August Kaltern Wine Days on 7th and 8th September Tramin Wine Street in Tramin on 21st October Lowlands Wine Week in Auer end of October The ‘wine ride’ is a one-day discovery tour through the South of Südtirol’s wine and cultural landscapes. You will visit some historic wine estates, cellars and cultural monuments and taste some exquisite wines. A 5 course tasting menu will be the finishing touch. Dates & information at: www.suedtirols-sueden.info South Tyrolean Wine Road Julius-v.-Payer-Str. 1 • I-39040 Tramin Tel. +39 0471 860 131 • Fax +39 0471 860 820 www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it THEME PATHS//ALL ABOUT WINE Kurtatsch Wine Teaching Trail The wine teaching trail leads for 1.5 km through a closed vineyard. Visitors get to learn about the ‘road of life’ of wine itself, as it takes you through planting the ‘rasel’ to wine tasting. wein.weg Along the wein.weg, limestone-white stones mark the way and show the names of the individual wine-growing estates. The names of the vineyards are given partly in Rhaetian, partly of Roman origin, and remembered in poetry: Keil and Ölleiten, Vial and Prunar, Puntara and Palurisch, Salt and Plantaditsch... SOUTH TYROL//WINE ROAD The South Tyrolean Wine Road was established in 1964 and is the oldest in Italy. The following villages are found along the road: Nals, Andrian, Terlan, Bozen, Eppan, Kaltern, Tramin, Kurtatsch, Margreid, Kurtinig, Salurn, Neumarkt, Auer, Montan, Pfatten. Wine Teaching Trail in Girlan In co-operation with the Laimburg school, an interesting wine teaching trail was established, which explains different cultivation methods, all about the local grapes, as well as thousands of years of wine tradition. JOURNAL 2006 AV 19 A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL TYROLEAN ROOTS AND THE EASY ITALIAN WAY OF LIFE | by Herbert Taschler PORTRAIT// HERBERT TASCHLER Born in Toblach, he has lived for 15 years in Kaltern and watches the South Tyrolean wine and gastronomy scene with a careful eye. As a freelance specialist publisher, gastronomy expert and sommelier, he tastes, tests and writes for several magazines A successful symbiosis of Alpine charm and Mediterranean temperament are uniquely reflected in South Tyrolean cuisine. The enjoyment that comes from South Tyrolean cuisines and cellars is a result of Tyrolean earthiness and Italian refinement. Whatever they put on a plate in South Tyrol mirrors the climate, the landscape, the culture and the people of this region. 20 AV JOURNAL 2006 such as Gambero Rosso, Der Feinschmecker-Weingourmet, Merum, Tageszeitung Dolomiten-Wirtschaftskurier and the Südtiroler Weinpresse. JOURNAL 2006 AV 21 CASTLE TRIANGLE// Missian/Eppan: Castle Korb, castle ruins of Boymont and Castle Hocheppan Its cuisine is sunny, mild, rooted and full of temperament at the same time. It is traditional but still open for soft impulses from all over the world. The extensive menu has true tradition: hearty, strong dishes with a farming background, menus from the Old Austrian type of cuisine, as well as the elegant and enchanting Italian way of cooking complement each other perfectly. Up and down the country, you can find strong aromas and fragrances in every kitchen. A hearty tradition of cuisine combines harmoniously with the southern refinement and Mediterranean easiness. South Tyrol’s cuisine shows itself in all its facets: from Mediterranean and soft to strong and Alpine. The same is true for the landscape around you. CASTLE HOTELS KNÖDEL & SPAGHETTI, SPECK & CARPACCIO Numerous fortresses, castles and noble residences invite you to dine and sleep like a king. The South of Südtirol offers many manor-style rooms and accommodation - mostly in the castle region of Eppan, but also in other places. For addresses of castle hotels and castle restaurants click www.suedtirol.info/burgen DID YOU KNOW, THAT for more than 100 years, they have cultivated exquisite asparagus in Terlan? The Terlan asparagus was first mentioned at the end of the 19th Century. Most important asparagus accompaniments: Bozen sauce and Terlan asparagus wine. BOZEN SAUCE In the 1920s, Maria Huber was the first person to serve the Bozen sauce in a Terlan restaurant. It was a creation of Bozen citizens. The original recipe was for 4 people: Squash two hard-boiled eggs and mix them with oil, vinegar and a little salt. Add one tablespoon of finely cut chives. (No mayonnaise!!) Speck on a wooden plate, grey cheese with onions, pickled tongue of veal, luke-warm goat’s cheese and baked horseradish are found on menus in typical ‘Buschenschank’ and traditional village restaurant. In Spring and Summer, the cuisine is more Mediterranean. In Autumn and Winter, it is often Tyrolean: farming barley soup with spinach – buckwheat shapes with grey cheese – roasted knödel and mushrooms with coleslaw – braised lamb leg on rosemary polenta – bacon & sausage dish during the Törggele season – sweet doughnuts with poppy seed, jam and chestnut fillings – chestnut rice with quinces, as well as quince ice-cream, invite you to discover and enjoy something new. The term ‘Marende’ translates into snack and these are very popular in South Tyrol. They offer speck and mountain cheese, ‘Schüttelbrot’ (type of bread) and often also hot potatoes, horseradish and everything the pub owner may be able to put on a plate. South Tyrol is like the Garden of Eden, a paradise rich in fruit and other wonderful products. Those who love quality, want to enjoy food with all their senses and, at the same time, would like to support the local economy, could allow the ‘Roter Hahn’ restaurant to spoil them, as they use only quality products from South Tyrolean farms. CREATIVE AND TEMPTING Young and innovative kitchen chefs have imported some new ideas into South Tyrolean kitchens. Visitors will be tempted with a variety of dishes, which come predominantly from the Mediterranean region and demonstrate some Asian influences without losing sight of the local traditions. SOUTH TYROLEAN GOURMET Hoods, forks and stars decorate the gastronomic sky in South Tyrol. In the local cuisine, Alpine and Mediterranean styles meet and enchant connoisseurs and gourmets alike. More information in ‘Gault Millau Südtirol’, which is available in every bookshops or can be ordered at www.athesiabuch.it 22 AV JOURNAL 2006 Fresh products and dishes – first of all South Tyrol’s quality products – are right in the centre of everything. The following is a small selection from an Upper Etsch menu: Carpaccio of goose paté with apple cream brulé, Balsamico juice and pistachio croissant – warm and cold smoked trout with white beetroot and horseradish shake – small potato & mushroom dumplings on truffle apple sauce and well-roasted pikeperch filet – shoulder of chamois ‘in Lagrein’, roasted, with red cabbage – pears in ginger and Topinambur crisps – coat- ed apple with sabayon cream of Gewürztraminer – quince jelly and ice-cream. Creations full of fantasy, as well as home-made cakes and chocolates form the crown of every festive menu, or each simple meal. And the wine culture with exquisite wines from the broad and varied assortment along the South Tyrolean Wine Road is always part of every meal. HOSPITALITY AND JOIE-DE-VIVRE ARE CONTAGIOUS The Southern Dolce Vita, lifestyle and savoir-vivre transport our guests into a culinary discovery trip with many enjoyable delights. Discover your love of life, while drinking a glass of good South Tyrolean wine with some tempting specialities from the South Tyrolean kitchen. In such an inviting atmosphere and warm hospitality, it is easy to enjoy the easy Southern way of life and the hearty Alpine charm. SOUTH TYROLEAN PRODUCTS From January to December, there is always a part of South Tyrol on our tables: bread, Zelten (type of fruit cake), strawberries, speck, wine and grappa are only a few of the South Tyrolean quality products, which guarantee a special culinary adventure. Recipes, addresses and information at www.suedtirol.info/produkte TIP: A list of our best restaurants and most beautiful pubs are on page 62 CULINARY WEEKS IN THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL Asparagus Weeks in the Asparagus Triangle Terlan-Vilpian-Siebeneich, end of March to end of May Cheers! Specialities from different Italian regions plus ‘Gourmet Market’ in April in Bozen SCHÜTTELBROT This thin type of bread is made of soft rye dough. Leaven is used for loosening the bread and spices round off the flavour. Small pieces of dough are ‘shaken’ into shape with a round piece of wood and then baked. Schüttelbrot is nearly all crust and is served with speck, sausage, cheese and wine or simply offered as nibbles. www.brot.org Culinary Speciality Weeks in Jenesien, beginning to mid April Gewürztraminer Cake with lots of Enjoyment Tramin in May Sarn Valley for Connoisseurs in five gourmet restaurants in May Gastronomic Nightly Tours with the Rittner Cable Railway from June to August ‘Sarnar Morgreti Essn’ in six Sarn Valley restaurants during the 1st half of July CHEESE During the summer, numerous Alpine meadows produce their own cheese. The dairymaids can be watched at their work and you can try the cheese if you like. Lots of fun not only for kids! Guided farmhouse tours and more information about the quality products can be found at www.roterhahn.it WEINoktober, events based around wine during October in Tramin GOLDEN MILK essen.kaltern drinking, eating and enjoyment in October/November Hansi Baumgartner, Italy’s first cheese specialist, distributes South Tyrolean cheese specialities world-wide. www.degust.com JOURNAL 2006 AV 23 CASTLE HOCHEPPAN// Missian/Eppan: Once the mightiest castles in the country. The castle chapel is worth seeing and hosts the first graphic display of the Tyrolean knödel (fresco from the 12th Century) ‘Statistics and the like can only be trusted’, said Churchill, ‘if you have worked on them yourself’. (Whether this statement can be trusted or not is another question.) Who knows, whether it is true or not, that South Tyrol and in particular the Upper Etsch region have the largest number of fortresses and castles in the world. Maybe certain provinces in the Inner Castilles have some more ... Nonetheless, there are a huge number of castles in this area! Fortresses, castles, noble residences – a clear art or culture-historic divide do not exist. The descriptions overlap. Hocheppan is a fortress, which was built during the great times of the knights, around the time, when Emperor ‘Rotbart Lobesam’ 24 AV JOURNAL 2006 BOYMONT CASTLE RUINS// Missian/Eppan FORTRESSES AND CASTLES | by Herbert Rosendorfer JOURNAL 2006 AV 25 (Barbarossa) moved towards the Holy Land. In order to have more defence against other armies, the Lords built fortresses with thick walls and high towers. Englar, however, is not a fortress but more like a castle. A very fine distinction! Englar – and many similar buildings – were built around a time, when they still remembered the times of tournaments and minnesingers, but the military and strategic importance had long gone. Therefore, they wanted to keep these times alive and built residences in their vineyards, decorated with Venetian loggias, merlons and towers. Then, and also today, Englar was owned by the Counts of Khuen-Belasi. Rainer Maria Rilke stayed here at some stage. Rilke loved everything aristocratic and had the talent of getting close to the ladies of the castle. He wrote poetry and was paid in free lodging. The poetry about Englar is exhibited in the castle. Above: ROMAN FRESCOES//castle chapel Hocheppan (Missian/Eppan) Below: CASTLE ENGLAR//accommodated Rainer Maria Rilke. A fine ambience for concerts and readings (Pigeno/Eppan) PORTRAIT// HERBERT ROSENDOFER Born in 1934 in Gries near Bozen. Studied law in Munich. Until 1997, judge in Bavaria. Since 1997, he has lived in St. Michael/Eppan. Numerous awards, such as the literature award of the City of Munich in 2005. Rosendorfer is the author of an extraordinary range of work; one of the most famous being ‘The letters of the Chinese past’ (1985). 26 AV JOURNAL 2006 Around the middle of the 16th Century, long after the Renaissance moved northwards into the old ‘mountain country’ (Tyrol), the people of this region finally realised that it was possible to build beautiful large houses between vineyards and orchards without surrounding them with high walls and merlons. They began to build around 180 fine residences, which were not exactly fortresses or castles but could be defined as architectural pearls. The great South Tyrolean art historian Provost Joseph Weingartner invented the term ‘Upper Etsch style’. The mighty walls and the farming manor-like architecture were kept, but many decorative items began to show on the outside: oriels, arch windows, outdoor stairs and porticos, balconies and wrought iron ornamental grilles on the lower floor windows. A residence was always a type of aristocratic residence of certain jurisdictional liberty. Often, the residences were named after the builder. Of course, today, most of these families are extinct. The residences are owned by other people, many of whom are farmers and wine-farmers. Some of these (like the Massauerhof ) have been renovated into comfortable and representative apartments. Some (like the Tschindlhof ) use their charm to accommodate guests – even to enchant them. The Reinsberg residence is probably the finest example of Tuscan Renaissance character, with a loggia, a balcony-type extension and free standing steps. It is situated on a quiet path at the Eppan mountain and shows off its charm with a chapel dome (Holy Cross chapel), which hosts impressive paintings and other exhibits of Late-Baroque style. Another residence, and as many believe the most beautiful one, is the Thalegg residence, situated on the road between St. Michael and St. Pauls, in a suburb mystically called Mademeid, which was mentioned in the works of Hubert Mumelter. The Thalegg residence is a mighty mansion, an aristocratic fine residence, a Renaissance building of noble proportions. It nearly fell into ruins, but has now been carefully renovated. Even the small ‘Maria-Hilf’ chapel is used again for services, in particular at the Patrozinium Day (12th September), when the host invites family and friends to a service and welcome drink. This is a custom, which has been kept alive by many residence and castle owners. The Thalegg residence is also famous for other reasons: it was re-built in 1900 in Paris, on a scale of 1:1 for the world exhibition of that time as an architectural contribution by the Austrians. The reconstruction did not use cardboard PORTRAIT//FRANZ MESSNER UPPER ETSCH ARCHITECTURE// The most important building material is sandstone and plaster, but stone and bricks right up to the roof top. Inside, however, they displayed a ‘genuine Tyrolean wine bar’, which won the hearts of the Parisians straight away. Many of the families, whose pride – and money, of coursecovered the country with castles, fortresses and residences, no longer exist. Some rich merchants from Bozen bought summer residences in the Upper Etsch region and even many art-loving foreigners settled there, such as the famous Munich painter Schraudolph, who once owned Thalegg. However, ownership came without the emperor’s seal, displayed in the title given to fine residence owners, such as Lord and Lordship in Tyrol ... These titles are nowadays only existent on gravestones. If you look closely, you will discover that the residences were not only mighty mansions of idle layabouts. They also consist of functional buildings such as stables, barns, tool-sheds etc. Many of these are still closed estates today, such as the Kronhof, whose Baroque ornamental garden covers only part of its land. The lifestyle of the residences’ inhabitants and builder are naturally expressed in the interior design. Richly decorated tiled stoves, mostly kept in green, heated the rooms and frescoes and wooden-panelled lounges were used during the cooler part of the year. If you want to understand the history of these stoves, you would need to study them for years! A residence building or even a castle or fortress (in other words: an architectural building of art) never stands on its own, even if it is typically separated by gardens and other buildings. It is always a part of art and nature. A construction created by the hands of men, as well as God. If it would stand alone, it would merely be a museum-like building. Only the invisible network of aesthetic lines displayed in vineyards and orchards combines the inner order of these residences and castles and creates an earthly paradise, which is reflected in the Upper Etsch region, in the eyes of their inhabitants, as well as their guests. Franz Messner, an artist of extravagant works of art. The artist blacksmith of Ritten created amongst other things a ball in Frangart, which is visible from a distance. MODERN ART Since 1987, the Museum for Modern Art has been open in Bozen. Regional art, but also some of their own collections, as well as historic developments form part of the common Italian and German-speaking cultural region. For more information, click on www.museion.it DID YOU KNOW, THAT South Tyrol’s Southern region is one of the European areas with most castles? More than 400 castles and fortresses are found in South Tyrol. Alone in Eppen, there are more than 180 fortresses, castles and residences from the former ‘aristocratic paradise’. www.suedtirols-sueden.info from 2,500 inhabitants, the village of Eppan had around 500 people of aristocratic decent in the year of 1650? during the Renaissance, a unique architecture was created in the Upper Etsch region? Venetian and Tuscan architects created the ’Upper Etsch architecture’. in the chapel of Castle Hocheppan, you can find the oldest display of the knödel? The Roman frescoes derive from the 12th Century. CASTLE HIKING TRIP Easy hikes for all the family in the Eppan Castle Triangle of castles Korb – Boymont – Hocheppan. www.eppan.net JOURNAL 2006 AV 27 THE RITTEN CRADLE OF SUMMER HOLIDAYS GUESTS, BOZEN CITIZENS, AS WELL AS THE LOCAL RESIDENTS ALL LOVE IT: THE RITTEN MOUNTAIN JUST OUTSIDE THE PROVINCIAL CAPITAL. A POPU LAR HOLIDAY DESTINATION FOR HIKERS, ALL THE FAMILY AND INDIVIDUALS. SUMMER HOLIDAY TRADITION PAR EXCELLENCE AND A NUMBER OF NATURAL BEAUTY SPOTS AWAIT THE FRIENDS OF THIS CLIMATICALLY WONDERFUL TOWN, WHICH INSPIRES YOU AND OFFERS INSPIRATION NOT ONLY TO ARTISTS AND PHILOSOPHERS. 28 AV JOURNAL 2006 | by Beatrix Unterhofer Above: EARTH PYRAMIDS//A Ritten natural phenomenon Left: HISTORIC RITTEN NARROW GAGE TRAIN//Years ago and today PORTRAIT//BEATRIX UNTERHOFER Dr. phil., publisher, daughter of restaurant owner in Ritten: studied the German language and literature and publishing in Vienna. Since 1982, freelance writer with several media companies (television, radio and print) nationally and internationally. Organisation and implementation of projects (such as film, symposium, exhibition Ritten summer holidays). UP INTO THE ‘SUMMER FRESHNESS’ ‘CRADLE OF SUMMER HOLIDAYS’ Every year at the beginning of the summer, it was always customary to take a summer holiday. This custom was born in 1576 around the time of the plague. Around 1650, the first documents speak about the summer holidays, recorded on artfully painted targets and beautiful wooden ceiling paintings in the old summer holiday guesthouses at the Ritten. The traditional summer holiday period spread for 72 days. This is how it is commentated in the annual lists: Exactly on 29th June, the day of St. Peter and St. Paul, the people packed household items, sufficient clothing in boxes and chests; children were packed into wicker baskets and sat, together with ‘Mylady’ in the ladies’ saddle on the horse. The second residence, the Ritten summer resort, was mostly appreciated by the children of lords. Due to their work, the men usually stayed only for a few days and visited their families only at the week-ends. A regular summer holiday as we know it today, was not known then. In the ‘Eight Bozen Rules’ – the etiquette of every ‘correct’ citizen of Bozen – Karl Theodor Hoeniger writes: ‘Rule number 3 speaks about a summer holiday house at the Ritten mountain...’ Also the aristocracy and the upper class from the Vienna region with its former crown estate citizens did not mind the long journey. They literally brought their house and home to the train station and travelled with the Southern Railways across the Semmering mountain, Lienz and the cool Puster Valley to Bozen, from where they journeyed up the Ritten mountain. In around 1505, the first visitors came to the Ritten high plateau: Hanns Ried, customs officer at the Eisack, wrote on behalf of Emperor Maximilian I, a legendary book about region of the river Etsch. It is known as ‘Amraser Heldenbuch’. Due to the heat in the town of Bozen, he asked whether it would be possible to do his work in a slightly cooler place. Another document refers back to the year 1675, when the Bozen philosopher Christoph Parth asked for a plot to build a summer holiday residence: ‘...where the town of Bozen keeps you fresh ...’. In a description about the country of South Tyrol, Marx Sittich von Wolkenstein wrote around 1600: ‘Above Pozen, there is a lofty place with flat meadows and a larch forest...’ The Ritten mountain is known as the original source for the much-used and fashionable word ‘holiday resort’. POETIC PATRICIAN SON On 16th August 1877 around 2 p.m., Johann Nepomuk Anton Josef Maria zu Tirschtenberg and Hoffensthal was born (later known as the Ritten poet Hans von Hoffensthal), in the summer holiday resort of Maria Himmelfahrt, in the Zallingerhaus near St. Magdalena. The son of a Bozen patrician family not only spent the summer time at the Ritten, but lived there most of his life. He was able to enjoy extensive hunting sprees and romantic hiking trips through the Ritten forests. He fell ill in 1911 with TB and closed the doors to his neurologist surgery in the Mustergasse in Bozen, where he offered his services every day for about 2 hours. Then he regularly went back to the Ritten mountain. In his novels and JOURNAL 2006 AV 29 Above: TYPICAL FARMHOUSE//Ritten Below: MENZ GARDEN PAVILION//Maria Himmelfahrt, Ritten: This is where the world-famous primaballerina Fanny Elssler presented her dance in July 1987. Beautiful alley with ancient lime trees. 30 AV JOURNAL 2006 THE RITTEN PEOPLE ARE NO LONGER UNIQUE, THEIR BEHAVIOUR IS LESS ‘MOUNTAINOUS’. FOR CENTURIES AT THE RITTEN, THE BOZEN HOLIDAYMAKERS HAVE DECIDED THEIR COURSE. THEY PRESENT THEMSELVES WITH PRIDE, IN WHITE COATS WITH RED COLLARS. WITH PRIDE BECAUSE THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS WERE INVENTED IN BOZEN AND NOT IN THE NORTH. KARL THEODOR HOENIGER, SÜDTIROLER WEINFIBEL, 1946 JOURNAL 2006 AV 31 writings, Hoffensthal not only talks about the scenery at the Penegal, the Mendel and Ritten mountains, but also about the start of high altitude therapy on the Bozen mountain, offered ‘free-of-charge’: ‘At the beginning of the summer, when the heat laid like a cloud of lead over the Bozen valley basin, the women sat in their comfortable sedan chairs or used their two-wheeled coaches. Only the less slim ascended to the Ritten mountain on horse back. The summer villas were opened, the green benches put underneath the lime wood trees, and thin blue smoke rose from white chimneys... THE RITTEN TRAIN Besides the traditional relaxation regions of Klobenstein and Lengmoos, the little hamlet of Oberbozen-Maria Himmelfahrt was established as an exclusive resort. The Zallinger, Gummer, Graff, Menz, Eyerl and Hepperger families built some summer holiday residences in this area. While the women stayed with their children for the summer months, the husbands visited them only from time to time, as they had work to do in their offices. From 1907, the comfort of the cog railway carried people straight from the Bozen Waltherplatz – the salon of the town – to the summer houses. Hoffensthal sceptically watched this technical innovation, as well as the building of a hotel and announced the coming of Alpine tourism in his ‘Return from Oberbozen’: ‘Maybe the opening of the Ritten train will take place on 18th August. They talk about a great number of people coming, talk about shares, a large meadow on which the children play, now the hotel. We will meet elegant foreigners, well-dressed men and women, children with high heel shoes and sun umbrellas, richly decorated huts. Over there, I see the hotel with all its flags, ready for its guests to arrive. The owner and his personnel wait for them in front of the freshly painted doors. They bow and bow again and smile happily. They see good days ahead ... but one thing we have which the foreigners don’t. That is our memory, like a heritage, lovely, irreplaceable and dear. We won’t give it away.’ 32 AV JOURNAL 2006 PERSONALITIES// SIGMUND FREUD ‘Paradise at the Ritten...’ as Freud describes it. He celebrated his silver wedding anniversary on 14th September 1911 in Klobenstein. This is where ‘Totem and Tabu’ was written – one of Freud’s most acclaimed works. PETER MAYR Born in Siffian at the Ritten mountain, he belonged to the leading group of the Tyrolean freedom fighters of 1809, together with Andreas Hofer HANS V. HOFFENSTHAL (1877-1914) The Bozen patrician son and doctor lived at the Ritten around the turn of the century. In his novels, his poetry and other writings, he describes the landscape and people of the high plateau and became known in the history of literature as the ‘Ritten poet’. VILLA IN THE COUNTRY One article in the Graz Tagespost (newspaper) from 1913 gives some insight into the architecture and the building construction of the Ritten summer home. ‘The architect Marius Amonn has built a wonderful Ritten house in Oberbozen, which displays country-like and well-rooted motifs of a highest standard. There is a music room with old farmhouse oriels, from where a lovely country scenery appears through the windows ...’ Monument-like manors and extensive parkland were declared as a refuge in a small, closed facility with its own customs and regulations. Through the conversion of the natural landscape, alleys, porticos and hedges divided the noble aristocracy from the local people and farmers, and at the same time, they created an elegant, nearly theatrical ambience. Under the Italian influence, the ‘Merltennen’, a small pavilion with nets was established – a home for birds. It is a wonderful summer resort with a great view over the town of Bozen, as well as the Lowlands to the Salurn retreat. Even the Menz monument, which was dedicated to one of the descendants, can still be seen in the Menz meadow, together with the garden pavilion, in which in July 1877 the world-famous primaballerina Fanny Elßler presented her dance. These residences are for some guests and hikers like small copies of a mini Schönbrunn castle or a Belvedere. In the alley, between the century-old lime trees, they placed benches and little tables. This was the place to meet people for coffee or tea in the afternoon or after the siesta at 4 p.m., they played cards and other games. Boat trips at the Wolfsgrubner Lake, moonlight hiking trips and day excursions determined the programme. The people up here lived a wonderful life: between bridge parties and after target shooting, the women served snacks. It was the place to meet the love of your life, marriages were arranged or broke up and on 18th August – the Emperor’s birthday – they celebrated a large lantern festival with fireworks. The artificial town, a colony of villas, brought high life to its citizens and the landscape became a stages adventure. Fashion developed, e.g. the Ritten coat, one with a red collar and a white cape. It was easily distinguished from the green shepherd’s coats and, today, still carries a status symbol and an emblem of aristocracy. The Ritten mountain was and is for artists a platform and showroom for feelings and motifs. Up there, Franz Kafka wrote his ‘Milena’, Sigmund Freud was inspired by the landscape and its people to write ‘Totem and Tabu’, Friderike Zweig and Otto Flake manifested their impressions and feelings about the Ritten mountain in their literary work. Together with the holiday makers and their leisure activities such as boccia tournaments, target shooting, bridge and tarock games, as well as the annual Emperor’s birthday celebrations, a highly developed city culture arrived in the mountain world. The travelling painters of the 19th Century found food and lodging in the old villas and, in return, paid by painting the wooden ceilings of the individual houses. The targets of the shooting range established in 1668 were often painted ‘to maintain good friendship and the neighbourhood’. They show adoration of saints but also about happy social events. Even Archduke Johann visited the Ritten mountain in 1839 and the target given to him expressed the cultural vicinity of the former Danube monarchy. DID YOU KNOW, THAT the Ritten train was the last, functioning narrow-gage train of South Tyrol? The historic wagons were built in 1907. the Ritten cable railway is mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records? At 4,565 metres, it is the longest cable railway in the world (without a terminal in between) the Ritten is particularly famous for its earth pyramids? The most beautiful earth pyramids can be found between Lengmoos and Mittelberg. in the middle Ages, the German emperors went via the Ritten to their crowning ceremony in Rome? More than 60 emperors lodged in the village of Lengmoos, which then was a hospice under German command. As quickly and as punctually as the holidaymakers appear, so they disappear again - mostly at the beginning of September. The shutters are closed, the benches and tables carried back into the houses, the doors closed ... and when the first leaves fall onto the streets, the people of the city have returned to the valley. THEME PATHS// THE LEGENDS AROUND THE SALTEN MOUNTAIN OF JENESIEN The European distance hiking path called E5 accompanies you along the Salten to the Edelweiss pub in the direction of Langfenn. There are twelve legends told in the region of Jenesien. The scenes of these legends mark the landscape of larch meadows and make the Salten mountain even more attractive! THE RITTEN THEME PATH The Ritten theme path shows the special features of the high plateau: from the fascinating coming and going of the earth pyramids, to the old emperor’s road and the ‘invention’ of the summer holidays. THE SARN VALLEY HORSESHOE TOUR An experience for all the family. The six to seven stages from one hut to the next in the Sarn Valley Alps, offers you breathtaking views of the ice-covered mountain, at a height of more than 3,000 metres and into the jagged Dolomite peaks. HOLIDAYS//ON THE MENDEL MOUNTAIN Just like they did in times gone by, most of the inhabitants of the Etsch Valley go to the surrounding higher regions of their towns, as soon as the hot summer months arrive. Many families from Kaltern go with their families to the Mendel mountain. Already during the 17th Century, the first holidaymakers went to the Mendel. At the end of the 18th Century, the Mendel mountain became the destination of the social elite of Europe. In 1903, the Mendel cable railway, the steepest and longest cable railway in Europe, was put into operation. Today, it still covers a difference in altitude of 850 metres from St. Anton/Kaltern to the Mendel Pass in only 12 minutes. JOURNAL 2006 AV 33 LEISURE TIME AT THE LAKE JUST SITTING THERE, WITH YOUR FEET IN THE WATER AND WATCHING THE WAVES COME IN, COMBINED WITH THE REGULAR NOISE OF THE WAVES ON THE SHORE, DOES WONDERS TO CALM YOUR NERVES. THIS SOOTHING EFFECT IS ONLY DISTURBED BY NEUROTIC AND STRONGMINDED STRESS MACHINES. A SIMPLE AND EFFECTIVE METHOD. | by Georg Weindl The classic place for this adventure is Lake Kaltern. Your view moves across the soft hilly vineyards to the steep walls to the left and right of the Mendel Pass. Or as a romantic alternative look at the large or smaller Montiggl Lakes in Eppan - two romantic bathing lakes, framed by shady forests. They are ideal for a leisurely walk. If you want to move into higher regions and fill your lungs with some hearty mountain air, look no further than the Durnholz Lake, a clear mountain lake at an altitude of 1,545 metres, in the back part of the Sarn Valley. A refreshing experience in every aspect. As a secret tip, there is the small Fennberg Lake. A nearly perfectly hidden mountain lake just above Kurtatsch at the Unterfennberg. During late summer, it is a favourite location for the locals, as you can relax well here without the usual crowds. The same quietness can be experienced at the Göller Lake near Aldein and the Wolfsgrubner Lake at the Ritten mountain. 34 AV JOURNAL 2006 STILL ANOTHER SECRET TIP// The Montiggl Lakes in Eppan JOURNAL 2006 AV 35 Above: LAKE KALTERN//The warmest bathing lake in the Alps. The belt of reeds in the south of the lake with more than 100 types of birds, is a true paradise for ornithologists. Left: DURNHOLZ LAKE//Sarn Valley With the St. Nikolaus church INFO//LAKE SAILING & SURFING Due to the southern wind which flairs up during the late afternoon, it is possible to run regular sailing tournaments at Lake Kaltern. It is a paradise for surfers. For information about the beach at ‘Gretl am See’ call Tel: +39 0471 960 055. There is a rental service for rowing boats and pedal boats at the beaches of the Large Montiggl Lake, as well as Lake Kaltern. 36 AV JOURNAL 2006 The project of the architects Fuchs and Harnoncourt, was presented during the Biennale in Venice in 2005. LAKE POOL KALTERN LARGE-SCALE HORIZONS The new lake pool in Kaltern moves away from the direction of pre-fabricated water slides and theme parks. The architects lifted the swimming pools out of their usual anchoring, individualised the theme adventure and realised their impression of nature and landscape. The bathing scene is subdivided into different levels. There are children’s, sports and enjoyment pools. The roof hangs above the integrated free pool, which has a view across the landscape. There is no frontier between the lake pool area and the garden – bathing inside and outdoors. Opening: Summer 2006. For further information, click www.kaltern.com NOT ONLY FOR CHILDREN: ADVENTURE POOLS Tramin’s sports and adventure pool with a water surface of 1,300 m2 is a fascinating experience for everyone. Climbing rocks and a waterfall, a jacuzzi and other water sports such as a floor whirlpool, current pool and underwater massage pool offer you an exciting and cooling variety. The adventure pool at the Large Montiggl Lake with the largest slide in South Tyrol, is a great highlight. The locals call it the ‘Lido’. It combines the comforts of a swimming pool with the experience of a lake. PUT ON YOUR SWIMMING SUIT... 300 sunny days a year. Lots of time to bathe and get tanned in the bathing lake, the adventure pools and the outdoor swimming pools. These are found in most villages and at all altitudes: from 220 metres in Salurn to 1,221 metres in Oberbozen! The accommodation area of South Tyrol has the highest density of swimming pools in the entire Alpine region! DID YOU KNOW, THAT PERSONALITIES// KLAUS MARAN the South Tyrolean bathing lakes are continually checked? The results can be found at www.provinz.bz.it/umweltagentur ‘Aqua Walking’ was invented at the Montiggl Lake? Try it out at the Large Montiggl Lake! Klaus Maran from Kaltern is the three times world champion in wind-gliding. Today, he owns a surfing school at Lake Kaltern, as well as two successful restaurants. the Small Montiggl Lake at a depth of 14.8 metres is the deepest lake in the Upper Etsch region? Lake Kaltern has only an average depth of 3.5 metres, which in turn makes it the warmest bathing lake in the Alps. JOURNAL 2006 AV 37 BOZEN AND THE ROSENGARTEN// According to the legend, when the Rosengarten glows a red colour in the sunset, you can see the rose-garden of Laurin, the king of the dwarfs. 38 AV JOURNAL 2006 BELLA FIGURA WITH A MOUNTAIN VIEW NO OTHER TOWN OFFERS SO MANY OPPOSITES AND IS YET STILL FASCINATING AND VARIED. IT IS RICH IN TRADITION, MODERN, ELEGANT AND WELLROOTED, MOSTLY ITALIAN AND SOUTH TYROLEAN. | by Georg Weindl JOURNAL 2006 AV 39 Every town creates its own impression. Venice has its St. Mark’s Square, the canals and the gondolas. Milan has the Scala, the dome and the elegant shopping arcades. Rome has the Colosseum, the Via Veneto, and Antique Forum Romanum. Other towns have churches and areas of interest. But what about Bozen? Of course, there are small fruit markets, the dark and varied porticos with their shops and bars, the wide and airy Waltherplatz with its majestic parish church. Then, your view slides across the roofs to the suburbs of the town and up to the vineyards at the Ritten mountain, the forests of the neighbouring mountain ranges of Jenesien and further South, where the Etsch Valley opens, to the left and right with vineyards stretched along the roads. In the North, there are the mountains, in the South the flood light Etsch Valley with its DID YOU KNOW, THAT the fairy-tale castle of Bozen, Castle Runkelstein, houses the largest maintained explicit fresco cycle of the Middle Ages? You can ‘read’ the tragic love story of ‘Tristan and Isolde’. Tel. +39 0471 329 808 Mediterranean climate. Bozen is not only at the frontier of two regions geographically. It is classic South Tyrol, just as you like it - alpine, comfortable and full of tradition. Bozen has many facets. Visitors from the North love the Italian and sometimes Tyrolean characteristics. Why not try it out and sit in a street café at the Waltherplatz or in the Silbergasse near the fruit market. Order a cappuccino or an espresso and glance along the streets. You will see an old farmer with his typical blue apron. Most likely, he will have just appeared from a bar, where he was enjoying a glass of red wine with his friends. Businessmen are totally different characters. They walk fast, with their mobile phone pressed to one ear. Their eyes are hidden behind dark sunglasses. Their suits are made by Armani or Zegna. Their shoes are elegant and polished. Don’t think that these are people from Verona, Milano or Vicenza. It is possible, but it is more likely that these stressed people work in banks around the area, on their way to the next appointment. Soon you will discover some elegant women, holding a small bag in their hands, on the left some shopping bags, a mobile phone somewhere in their possession, wearing beautiful shoes. Everyone discusses things in a lively fashion. ARMANI & LUIS TRENKER the Ötzi Museum is the most visited regional museum between Florence and Munich and receives 250,000 visitors per year? www.iceman.it 40 AV JOURNAL 2006 Shopping in Bozen is a truly special experience. In the heart of the town, between the Rathausplatz, Waltherplatz and Sparkassenstrasse, you could think you were in a NorthItalian metropolitan city. There are boutiques with tempting displays and expensive designer goods. Armani, Dolce & Gab- bana, Prada and Gucci are worn in Bozen, as well as in the large Italian cities. However, there is also a different type of shopping available. Tradition-conscious and proud, with a touch of nostalgia, such as Oberrauch Zitt or the established hat maker Rizzolli, as well as the fine wood carvings of Tschager and the traditional assortment of the South Tyrolean craft trades. Don’t forget the interesting bookshops and the small, well-sorted food stores. markets and streets, you will discover some new and interesting wine bars. They mostly serve South Tyrolean wines – not only due to their patriotism. The South Tyrolean vintners have made a good name for themselves all over the world, e.g. Alois Lageder from Margreid, Franz Haas, Baron Widmann, Count Enzenberg etc. Of course, Bozen also offers wines from Tuscany, Piedmont or Umbria. However, the local wines are preferred in this region. There is a saying in Bozen: Talking about food! Bozen, the town between the North and the South, has lots to offer. In the centre, there is a broad variety of food on offer, for example, the classic South Tyrolean cuisine, such as the Gasthaus Vögele near the fruit market. There are also a number of pubs, a restaurant with its own brewery, or other traditional pubs such as the Batznhäusl or the Löwengrube. Here, you will not only sit in a nostalgic ambience, but also find the protagonists of the good old South Tyrolean cuisine. Schlutzkrapfen (large ravioli), knödel (dumplings) and speck, as well as other hearty meals can be found on the menu. The menu is not only bi-lingual but includes also classic Italian food, given that Bozen citizens and their guests discovered the advantages of the Italian cuisine long ago. Nowadays, as many of us sit in offices and don’t move too much, we cannot eat like the old farming generations. Therefore, places such as the Hostaria Argentieri in the Silbergasse, as well as other well-established Italian restaurants and pubs show off their pizza selection. IN BOZEN, THEY ALWAYS LOOK FOR THE BEST. So much about food. Let’s move on to talk about drinks ... more precisely wine. Bozen citizens, together with the rest of South Tyrol, enjoy their own wine. If you walk through the Depending on your personal taste, this can be South Tyrolean or Italian. You could be jealous! The wines you enjoy during your holidays are available in this region all year round. Combining the cultures of Italy and Tyrol was not without its problems. Nowadays, however, fighting between South Tyrol and Italy is more or less over. At least generally. PERSONALITIES// DR. EDUARD EGARTER VIGL Pathologist at the Bozen hospital and Ötzi’s private physician. A scientific attraction was the discovery of an arrowhead in the left shoulder of the world-famous glacier corpse. JOURNAL 2006 AV 41 PORTRAIT// MATTEO THUN Matteo Thun was born in Bozen as the son of a South Tyrolean count, whose dynasty was also world-famous as a manufacturer of ceramics. Today, the top architect and designer lives in Milan. www.matteothun.com Bozen has seen its chance and used it for its own good. The city is a link between the North and South. Apart from the good trade connections between the North and the South, which has existed for many centuries, Italians have learnt to love the orderly nature and reliability of the Northerners. A new trend is also their love of the mountains. And the people from the North have fallen in love with all things Mediterranean. And in the midst of it all, you will find Bozen, which offers something of everything. There are also the climate – and the architecture. In the centre of town, you will find classic art nouveau-type houses, as they were built around the turn of the century by Vienna architects. In between, you can see Gothic facades and every now and then even a piece of Rococo. In the old days, Vienna was the capital – also for the Bozen region – until South Tyrol was given to the Italians after World War II. Today, there are also typical Italian suburbs to be found, e.g. the Don Bosco quarter or the European quarter along the Palermo Road. These are not shopping or entertainment areas but more residential in character. But when you have walked through the relatively new Greif Passage with its fine boutiques, you will soon realise that you won’t find another in Milan or even Rome. FROM THE TRADE TOWN TO A CITY WITH CULTURE BOZEN// Above: Façade in the Sparkassenstrasse Below: F. Busoni tournament 42 AV JOURNAL 2006 Many years ago, Bozen was known as the town of merchants. Due to its location, it was practically suited to it. It was full intended to use the central position between the North and the South to trade in wool, spices and oil. One of the sovereigns of that time was Archduke Sigismund of Tyrol, who was also called ‘Moneybags’ as he lived a very luxurious lifestyle. Culturally, the town is not one of the biggest cities in the country. During his Italian travels, Goethe only stayed here for a short while and, then, moved to Trento. Also Mozart travelled through the town, as did many others on their way to the sunny South and to the Adriatic coast or the Roman temples. ‘The sun was shining when I arrived in Bozen. The many faces of the merchants made me smile. A truly relaxed lifestyle with a touch of action’, wrote Goethe in 1786. The new modern town theatre represents the cultural Renaissance of the town, which finds its own place between the North and the South. Part of the programme are the great Italian operas by Verdi (who has given for a short period his name to the theatre), as well as German works of art. Things have changed! Today, the Germans love Verdi and the Italians are interested in foreign music as well. The Bozen theatre is using this fact to keep in touch with other theatres from the North and the South. The cultural town of Bozen is not only the provincial capital with regular visits of Maestro Claudio Abbado. Since the people of Bozen have discovered their role between the North and the South, they have a lot of interesting activities to offer to their guests. WWW.UNIBZ.IT For example, the new university was founded in 1997. The curriculum is taught in three languages. This suits the Italians just fine as they are known not to be too eager in general to adapt to other languages. But it also works the other way around. The German students have the opportunity to study design or tourism, as well as German, English or Italian. Surely, this atmosphere motivates many students to come and stay, as there are only few universities, which can offer such cultural and other attractions. In addition, Bozen has official recognition for its attractiveness. The renowned Italian economy magazine ‘Il Sole 24 Ore’ lists Bozen beside Bologna, Milan and Verona as the town with the highest quality standards of life. This type of standard is usually calculated by facts and figures. Far more important, however, is the atmosphere. Whether you enjoy a visit to a wine estate on the Ritten mountain or whether you look across the vineyards down into the wide valley basin. Whether you like to take a walk through the orchards of cypresses, olive groves or palm trees of the Etsch Valley or whether you like to enjoy the Mediterranean climate. Whether you love to dive into the active atmosphere of the town centre while shopping or do something else. This town will win you with its charm, as it offers something for everyone. It does not matter whether you are a romantic, whether you love nature, a good lifestyle or anything else. Bozen has a broad variety of offers for all its guests. THEME PATHS//BOZEN PROMENADES The new parish church of Leifers All around the Bozen valley basin, you will find a circle of promenades. Some of these gems are the Guntschna and the Oswald promenades with a wealth of flora and many lookout points. Mediterranean plants grow here, such as palm trees, magnolias and agaves. The Talfer promenade and the new Virgl promenade pass fortresses and castles (Castle Maretsch, Castle Runkelstein and the Haselburg). ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN–DARING TO BE MODERN Design is not only a factor in the great cities of this world. The people of South Tyrol have shown great courage when it comes to modern architecture, such as the European Academy in Bozen, the wine cellars of Manincor at Lake Kaltern or the project for the Museum of Modern Arts. An absolute highlight of modern architecture is the new parish church in Leifers for which the Meran architects Höller & Klotzner received the South Tyrolean Architecture award in 2004. In particular, the jury considered ‘the high quality of the geometric appearance’. Just so that you can visualise it: the Bronze exterior design consists of 105,000 kg of bronze and 3,210 panels. The internal construction is made of 25,000 kg of high-grade steel. Lecture hall of the Free University of Bozen ‘LUIS TRENKER’–A SOUTH TYROLEAN CULT LABEL The trendy Alpine fashion designs of the Bozen brothers Michi and Hansjörg Klemera, a modified retro look for mountaineering gear from the 30s and 40s, comes across as fresh and youthful and can be worn anywhere, any time of the day. Just ask Arnold Schwarzenegger or Thomas Gottschalk. For further information about the cult fashion, click www.luistrenker.it JOURNAL 2006 AV 43 THE QUILTERS IN THE SARN VALLEY AND THE BARREL MAKERS OF GIRLAN ARE ONLY TWO EXAMPLES THAT SHOW HOW REAL CUSTOMS AND GOOD OLD TRADE PRACTICES ARE SOMETHING TRULY SPECIAL TODAY. IN PARTICULAR, IF THE WORK IS DONE WITH GREAT ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND QUALITY. WHERE SIMPLE THINGS ARE TRULY SPECIAL | by Georg Weindl It is a long way from a plain oak trunk to a precious barrique wine barrel. And this is not only because there are many stages of work, which require a lot of attention and time, until the barrels reach their final destination. For this reason, barrel makers are usually people with lots of patience. Konrad Mittelberger and his brothers Markus and Peter have returned to this old tradition in an old workshop just below Castle Sigmundskron, near Girlan. The oak wood is personally checked and purchased by the brothers in a place in France. The trunks are transported by train to South Tyrol, where they are cut in a saw mill and split by a machine. This is a very tedious job as it is important to keep the highest standard of quality. The planks need to be sawn parallel in such a way, that the wood will not move at a later date. And this is only the start of the process. The cut wood is moved to a warehouse above 44 AV JOURNAL 2006 JOURNAL 2006 AV 45 BARREL MAKERS//Mittelberger The pieces used for making barrique barrels are stored for two to three years near Mölten at an altitude of 1,200 metres above sea level, the highest storage for this type of wood in Europe. Bozen at an altitude of around 1,200 metres. It can take up to three years before the wood is ready to be made into barrique barrels. Then, it is brought to the workshop. The pieces are once more cut, as well as compressed and shaped inside and out. When the parts are ready, the hoops are fixed and finally pressed together and baked. The three brothers learnt this trade from their father. However, working with wood in itself isn’t the secret of the trade. As a barrel maker, you also need to understand something about wine as the customers are renowned wine-growers. The character of the barrel is very important for the wine. In the meantime, the brothers have several South Tyrolean wine-growers on their client list. Over the past few years, the Tyrolean wines have been awarded for having a higher quality than ever and therefore, many wine-growers who produce top wines are returning to the traditional processing methods. Old trades, as well as customs have an important role to play around Bozen and the Etsch Valley. Quality needs time, they say. In the time of mass consumption and anonymous cheap products, it is exciting to select high-quality materials with care and process them into unique products. Of course, handmade articles have their price. However, the end product will award you with quality and character. This is something they truly love in South Tyrol. On the other hand, it isn’t that long ago that the people of this region earned their daily bread with craftwork. A new way of earning money arrived with tourism. Old customs are not long forgotten and our guests are very interested in them. BEAUTIFUL FEATHERS THEME PATH//CHESTNUT PATH Approximately 30 km long Ritten part of the Eisack Valley Chestnut Hiking Path leads you along ancient settlements, numerous churches, a Roman cemetery and other legendary places. Not only recommended during Autumn! www.ritten.com 46 AV JOURNAL 2006 The Sarn Valley is a region, which is known for tradition. Many customs have been kept alive in this area like nowhere else. Not only Sarnthein, the main town in this long valley, but also many small hamlets have kept their original charm and identity. There are no concrete blocks and glittering Wellness stamps. Instead, you will find genuine farming charm and originality. This is today’s attraction. The same is true for the famous embroidery of the Sarn Valley. Johann Thaler in Sarnthein practises this art the same way it has been done for generations. When modern-day people see how this craft is carried out for the first time, they could easily mistake it as a ‘living anachronism’. And somehow, this is what it is ... only in a positive sense. For centuries, the Sarn Valley has kept this tradition. During the early years, the farming people used it to earn some extra money during the long and cold winters. This type of embroidery is carried out with a quill. Tradition says that is must be taken from peacock feathers, which are cut into strips and used as needles. The embroidery is often made on a pair of braces and the broad hems of the Sarn Valley tradition costumes. They are also used on shoes, but to be honest, they don’t turn out as decorative. The Thaler workshop also decorates purses or belts and key rings. Of course, it is also possible to ask for personalised crafts. No problem at all, as everything is done by hand anyway and each piece of work is unique. It is necessary to have lots of patience, of course and a fine, accurate hand. Some ornaments require 100 working hours or more. In addition, a good worker must also bring a certain type of creativity. Nobody wants to keep repeating the old patterns over and over again. New patterns are required and make the work more pleasurable. Johann Thaler senior from Sarnthein watches carefully over this trade. In the meantime, doing embroidery with a quill is an official teaching profession and young people from South Tyrol and abroad are being trained in it. Of course, it would also be possible to have this work carried out by a machine. However, it really would not be the same. The material must be selected with care and worked by hand. People who love to wear hand-made shoes will hardly buy cheap slippers in the supermarket. An authentic product with history and personality, as well as the quality of the craftsmen are on regular demand. As you can see, there are sufficient reasons to check out the barrel makers and quill embroiderers. In addition, there are many other farming traditions in South Tyrol, such as wicker makers or manufacturers of felt slippers. CHESTNUTS AND NEW WINE South Tyrolean festivities involve lots of traditional customs. Parish church festivals and processions are still the highlight of the year in many villages. ‘Törggelen’ has become a real tourist attraction. However, in the autumn, when it’s Törggele time, it’s not only the tourists who enjoy these events, but the locals as well. A lovely autumn walk through vineyards and shady mountain forests with their genuine ‘Buschenschank’ (a kind of snack bar) or farmhouses invite you to some new wine and home-made dishes. They also serve chestnuts, speck, cold meats or even a farming roast and, for dessert, a calorie rich sweet. Now, you might understand why ‘Törggelen’ is linked to walking or hiking. Life here moves in accordance with nature and the seasons. This makes the farming traditions in South Tyrol very lovely and to be recommended. It is great to meet people who do not only want to make a profit but are willing to produce less, respecting their culture and tradition. Their work is also their hobby. Many of us realise that nowadays this is a privilege, almost luxury. PERSONALITY// RUDY GIOVANNINI The trained tenor and star of folk music was born in Leifers, where he invites to the ‘Köfelefest’ in June every year. ‘TAKE YOUR OATH, TYROLEAN LAND, lift your heart and hand to God!’ The custom of the Heart of Jesus fire derives it roots from an oath, which the Tyrolean craftsmen took in 1796, while fighting against Napoleon: if they were able to defeat the enemy, at Heart of Jesus–sunday, they would sweat eternal faithfulness to the Heart of Jesus. Every year, hundreds of people renew this oath, lighting Heart of Jesus fires all over the South Tyrolean mountains. ‘KLÖCKELN’ When spine-chilling tones, bells and other sounds break through the quiet winter nights, everyone in Sarn knows that the ‘klöckel night’ has arrived! The bell ringers walk from house to house and sing their ancient songs. This advent custom has its roots in a German fertility rite: the road must be cleared for Donar, the God of fertility, and the bad winter spirits must be driven out. THE SOUTH TYROLEAN DIALECT The German-speaking part of South Tyrol has about 300,000 inhabitants, which means that about 99.995% of all mankind are foreigners. The German-speaking part of these foreigners are recommended to learn some of the most important words of the South Tyrolean dialect, to make themselves understood. Learn the South Tyrolean dialect at www.oschpele.ritten.org SARN COSTUMES The Sarn Valley is one of the few valleys in South Tyrol where, even today, on Sundays and sometimes even during working days, people wear their local costumes, which is considered as one of the most sober costumes of the whole German speaking area and it kept its ancient nature. After observing a group of Sarn people, Ludwig Thoma wrote that due to their smarty aspect they made him think to English lords. A small secret for the feminine guests who meet a man wearing the costume: if he wears a red bow on hat he is still single, if he wears a green bow his wife is not far. SARN CRAFTS There are altogether 13,271 craftsmen in South Tyrol. This includes the Sarn craftsmen, who – for centuries – have kept alive old traditions such as art weaving, wood turning, quill embroidery and wood carving to name but a few. www.sarner-gschick.com DID YOU KNOW, THAT the community of the Sarn Valley with 303 km2 is the largest community in South Tyrol? the smallest church near the refuge hut of the Latzfonser Cross in the Sarn Valley Alps is the highestaltitude pilgrimage place in Europe? This place is called ‘Black God of Latzfons’ and is located at an altitude of 2,305 metres. the Tramin Egetmann procession is one of the oldest and strangest carnival festivities in Tyrol? It was first mentioned in 1591. Its origin, however, most likely comes from pre-Christian times. The festivity is only celebrated in odd-numbered years. www.egetmann.com JOURNAL 2006 AV 47 SPRINGTIME//Blossoming time From mid to end of April, the largest orchards in Europe begin to blossom LESS IS MORE FORGET EVERYDAY LIFE. RELAX IN NICE PLACES AND CHARGE YOUR BATTERIES. THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL IS A LITTLE PARADISE FOR BEING IDLE. WELLNESS AND RELAXATION COME IN A NATURAL AND STYLISH WAY. 48 AV JOURNAL 2006 | by Georg Weindl Left: LONELY//Perdonig Eppan Below: TOGETHERNESS//Little church near Castle Englar Eppan It is remarkable how many people make the effort to do absolutely nothing. They sit for many hours in a crammed aeroplane in order to stay for weeks in the monotony of a beach. They pay a lot of money for exotic productions in exquisite Wellness hotels and then try to relax with the help of Tibetan bells, sheep wool massages, purification through deep massage or Yin-Yang-Thalasso baths from their stress of life. The aim is always the same: relaxation, time out, down sizing, slow motion. Relaxation through minimal leisure time activities or by doing nothing. As new as this theme seems to be, it is not really. ‘Boredom – is the mother of all leisure’, wrote Goethe in his Venetian epigram. This was written at a time, when Wellness was not even known. In the 1950’s, the USA started its first real Wellness movement, a preventative medicine measure. The health-supporting effect was quickly acknowledged, including the cost-reducing effect for the health system. This might not sound much like a spa holiday and the NHS. However, a relaxed person knows quite well, that it is possible to relax without Thalasso and a sheep wool massage. All you need it a certain measure of inner contentment and a suitable place, which will have a good influence on you. The mountains are very popular. It is interesting to watch how people change so much and leave their hectic life behind when they walk in higher altitudes. Water and beautiful beaches will do the same trick. It is highly recommended to visit historical places with some atmosphere. Mountains, lakes, picturesque historical places. South Tyrol has lots of these on offer, including endless hours of sunshine and a mild Mediterranean climate. These are ideal preconditions for comfortable and stylish relaxation. Don’t forget that relaxation cannot be switched on like a button. You need some instructions South Tyrolean style. FOR THE ADVANCED Keep cool. Look down into the valley and realise how far your problems are away from you. The therapeutic effect of mountain hiking is indisputable. Just sitting down, enjoying the fresh air and the quietness and looking over the mountain ranges. You don’t need to walk to one of the refuge huts. Visiting the peaks even without eating at a hut, might even give you more relaxation. On the left side of the Etsch river, you will be able to discover many beautiful hiking tours with panoramic views. Comfortable walks through vineyards, passing stylish residences or hike up into the Alpine regions of the Trudner Horn Nature Park. If you like to be more sporting, you can enjoy an excursion into the Sarn Valley Alps. If long hiking trips are too much for you, you can choose different lift facilities, e.g. from St. Anton/Kaltern to the Mendel mountain, von Vilpian to Mölten, from Bozen to Jenesien, Oberbozen/Ritten or Kohlern. Higher up you can get a lift to the Rittner Horn and from Reinswald. FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO ENJOY LIFE The entire region of the South of Südtirol is full of romantic places and paths, which will help you to relax. For example on a bench in one of the vineyards, looking across the wide and open Etsch Valley, letting the sun touch your skin while your eye moves across the vineyards, olive groves and cypresses. Historic castles and residences are wonderful places to relax. At the legendary hills of the castle ruins of Castelfeder, between Auer and Montan, there is a magnificent view over the JOURNAL 2006 AV 49 DID YOU KNOW, THAT Italy’s first lama and alpaca culture is found at the Ritten mountain? On the meadows of the Kaserhof in Oberbozen, you can find lamas, which are used as carriers, hiking companions, wool suppliers and leisure animals. Trekking with lamas at www.lama.bz.it the Mendel cable-car is the oldest and longest of its type in Europe? It was built in 1903, in order to connect two spa towns: Gries near Bozen and the Mendel Pass. This is where the Empress Sissi spent some time. the name of the ‘Frühlingstal’ (Spring Valley) is a true reflection? Already at end of February/beginning of March, there are some signs of Spring in the air. the old aristocracy feels right at home in the mountains of South Tyrol? Descending from an ancient aristocratic desert tribe, which dates back to more than 4,000 years, ‘Paks von Aswan’ from the Gaughof farmhouse in Wangen has found a new home in South Tyrol. Today, the first Arab stud farm in South Tyrol is owned by the Selva family (Stilmöbel Selva). Etsch Valley. It’s a perfect place to experience an unforgettable sunset. Or you could go to the small romantic church of St. Jacob’s just above Tramin at the hills of Kastelaz. Beautiful places and adventures can be combined in wonderful ways, e.g. on a comfortable cycle trip along the river Etsch or a hiking tour. Discover the excitement of real ‘Törggelen’, a comfortable walking tour to a traditional farmhouse, where you can take a snack in the shade of their beer garden or in the nostalgic lounge. It’s also worth taking an excursion to the Ritten mountain, using the almost 100 year old Ritten cable-car. The nostalgic and elegant atmosphere of the Ritten with its beautiful villas makes for great relaxation time. Summer holidays have a long tradition in this region and mean nothing more than people enjoying the cool altitude during the hot summer months and doing ... nothing! For those who could afford it, they did this all summer long. TAKE A PIECE OF SOUTH TYROL HOME WITH YOU! You can capture all the impressions you made in this beautiful region and take them home with you! A moment of inner peace and stillness is better than anything else, as the old Persian saying goes. You can always come back. In the South of Südtirol, there are many beautiful places and adventures to discover! 50 AV JOURNAL 2006 SOFT MOVEMENTS// Cycling paths More than 600 km of well-marked valley cycling paths can be discovered in South Tyrol. Cycle through apple orchards and forests or along a river. The new ‘South Tyrolean Apple Cycling Path’, South Tyrol’s first theme path on a bike, runs between Algund and Bozen and offers you 40 km of ‘apple pleasure’ for all the family! Cycling through 2,000 years of history The Via Claudia Augusta connects people, times and cultures. Along the cycling paths, the ancient cultural and trade paths of the Roman Empire come alive again. The cycling guide ‘Via Claudia Augusta – von der Donau an die Adria’, ISBN 3-85000131-8 can be ordered at Verlag Esterbauer, [email protected] www.viaclaudia.org A bit of advice! Be safe on the roads and use the cycling path in the South of Südtirol – with 41 detailed cycling-hiking and bike tour suggestions. Available at your local tourist offices, from € 3.80! On the back of a Hafling horse The best way to discover nature is on the back of a Hafling horse. Due to its good-nature and its safe step, it is the ideal FOTO NORDIC riding companion for beginners and children. For Haflings, the best riding village is Jenesien: there are 6 equestrian centres, where you can find the popular horses. Why don’t you try it out!? Wide forest roads and small forest paths offer something for everyone. Find more information on riding courses, excursions, trekking tours and riding camps for children at www.jenesien.net There are equestrian centres in Leifers, Eppan, Kaltern, Kurtatsch, Neumarkt, Mölten, in the Sarn Valley, at the Ritten mountain and in Aldein-Radein. Information in your local tourist office. Tee off in relaxation mode! There are four beautiful golf courses nearby: the 18 hole course ‘Petersberg’ near Aldein and ‘Dolomiti Golf Club’ in Sarnonico (TN), 8 km behind the Mendel Pass. In addition, there are the 9 hole courses of ‘Gutshof Brandis’ in Lana and ‘Karersee’ at the Karer Pass. More information at www.golfinsuedtirol.it THEME PATHS// Dürer Path Nordic Walking Love sports! There are five different Nordic Walking tours in the beautiful hilly vineyard region of Eppan. PERSONALITIES// ANDREAS SEPPI After his victory at the Masters Series tournament in Hamburg against Guillermo Canas (August 2005), the tennis player from Kaltern is now for the first time amongst the top 100 in the world. SEPP MESSNER The ex chief trainer of the Italian Men’s Ski National Team from Vilpian is now director of the International Ski Association (FIS) at World Cup Run, World Championships and Olympic Games. On the historic Dürer Path leading from Salurn via Neumarkt to Buchholz and across the Sauchsattel to the earth pyramids of Segonzano, visitors will find commemoration stones with the initials of Dürer in all places, the artist once visited. www.duererweg.it Nature teaching trail ‘Gleif church – Eppan ice holes’ A nature teaching trail informs you about the geological particularities in the Eppan village area, from glacier pots to glacier cuts and the legendary ‘devil’s chairs’, as well as the natural phenomenon in Eppan: the Eppan ice holes (‘Eislöcher’). Nature adventure trail Castelfeder A hiking path gives you insight into the particularities of Castelfeder’s nature, culture and history during the past centuries. JOURNAL 2006 AV 51 THE BLETTERBACH CANYON EUROPE’S UNIQUE CANYON | by Beatrix Unterhofer In the footsteps of the dinosaurs, the Bletterbach canyon gives some fascinating insight into the Old Times of our planet’s history. With the opening of the visitors’ centre, the forest teaching trail and the panels complement the geological trail. The canyon was opened to the public and has its own programme, particularly for children. you like an open book. It is said, that if you walk along and down to the Bletterbach, you should always keep an eye towards the sky. Weather changes are not rare in this region. Enjoy this excursion, while discovering many figures and faces engraved in the rock, or eyes, mouths, noses and ears are often associated with cave entrances ... Open mountains. Time in a fossil. Bletterbach. Many millions of years ago, in Aldein, situated south-east of Bozen, the little Bletterbach (creek) developed, at a length of 8 km and more than 400 metres deep into the soil. This created an imposing canyon, which is unique in Europe. The best time for an excursion is the afternoon when the light conditions are best and the creek is like an exciting amphitheatre. In approximately 3 hours walking time, you can get an impressive insight into the past. Descending into the canyon, which takes about 2.5 hours, you will come across 260 million years of the earth’s history. The creek lies in front of One million years - for us an eternity It is fascinating, what geological layers can tell us. A creek in search of a new beginning. The Bletterbach shows numerous layers from different times. The lowest layer, the porphyry, is of a volcanic origin and extremely free of erosion. Clouds of fire spread across the creek at speeds up to 500 hours/km. Steep, rocky walls and vertical cliffs still bear witness to this today. Now, the creek runs quietly into the valley. The evening air is mild and the last sunrays look through the trees. It is difficult to imagine that animals from the sea once lived here. In some places, you can discover plant materials 52 AV JOURNAL 2006 Geoparc Bletterbach | Lerch 40, I-39040 Aldein | Tel./Fax +39 0471 886 946 | www.bletterbach.info Opening times: 1st May to 4th November, daily from 9.30 a.m. to 6 p.m. in the stone. Beside the fossils of plants and wood, you also can find some micro-organisms and traces of different types of dinosaurs and also crustaceans. This gives some indication that the sea spread from the East and finally reached America and Japan. Things are constantly changing. Every winter, every thunderstorm, disintegration and decay play their part and make the Bletterbach canyon a unique natural phenomenon, impacting the earth’s history, as well as natural monuments. Be tempted ... to visit Alpine huts, farmhouses and mills or the legendary world of Aldein. And for the kids, there is ‘Bletterbach for Kids’. Beside some guided hiking trips, there is also the museum card Aldein-Radein and interesting family tickets! On nature’s trails Guided hiking trips bring nature lovers just to the right spots. Every tourist office offers special hiking trips: blossom hiking trips or culinary asparagus trips in Spring, Törggele weeks in Autumn, excursions from castle to castle, to the Ritten earth pyramids or walking from farmhouse to farmhouse. Specially recommended are the nature-scientific hiking trips into the Trudner Horn National Park or into the Bletterbach canyon. JOURNAL 2006 AV 53 54 AV JOURNAL 2006 THE TRUDNER HORN NATURE PARK IS A UNIQUE HIKING PARADISE. IT CONSISTS OF 7,000 HECTARES OF LAND AND IS THE MOST SOUTHERN OF THE 7 SOUTH TYROLEAN NATURE PARKS. WITH HIGH FORESTS AND BUSH FORESTS, AS WELL AS WIDE ALPINE MEADOWS, IT SPREADS TO AN ALTITUDE OF 220 METRES TO 1,700 METRES. THROUGH ITS SUBMEDITERRANEAN VEGETATION ZONE, IT PROVIDES A HABITAT FOR MANY PLANTS AND ANIMALS. PURE NATURE NATURE PARK HOUSE The Nature Park House in Truden offers you several exhibition areas, giving information about the park. An amphibian pond, a herb garden and a corn field are part of the facility. The elevator mill was built in 1948-49 and is the only functioning mill of its kind in South Tyrol. It was carefully renovated and grinds up to 2,000 kg of corn daily for the farmers of Truden and the surrounding area. The Nature Park House is open from mid April to mid November. Tues – Sat 9 a.m. to noon and 3 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. (JulySeptember also Sundays) For further information, please call Tel. +39 0471 869 247 BIOTOPS IN THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL The reed area of the biotop ‘Kalterer See’ is home to more than 100 types of birds, of which many are migrating birds. The biotop ‘Castelfeder’ near Montan is preferred by the emerald lizard. In the biotops ‘Langes Moos’ and ‘Peraschupf’ many rare types of orchids and plants grow, as they need lots of water. The biotop ‘Fennberger See’ with the lake creek, the reed area and the wet meadows, offer important living space to partly threatened species of flora and fauna. Crayfish can also be found here. Other biotops are: the ‘Fuchsloch’ near Andrian, the ‘Eislöcher’ near Eppan, the ‘Lengmoos’ and the ‘Frühlingstal’ (Spring Valley) near Montiggl, the ‘GisserAuen’ and the ‘Heiss-Aue’ with its rare tamarisk bushes near Weißenbach. NATURE CONSERVATION South Tyrol’s territory stretches to an area of 7,400 km2. 40% of this is taken up by nature reserves, as well as national and nature parks. For more information check out www.provinz.bz.it/natur THE FARMER The farmer is the natural landscape gardener and a guarantor for the protection of our cultural landscape. Around 27,000 agricultural and forestry enterprises can be found in South Tyrol. More about agriculture at www.provinz.bz.it/landwirtschaft JOURNAL 2006 AV 55 THE JOYS OF WINTER | by Georg Weindl THE SARN VALLEY, THE RITTEN MOUNTAIN, THE SALTEN MOUNTAIN WITH MÖLTEN AND JENESIEN, ALDEINRADEIN, TRUDNER HORN. WINTER IN THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL IS JUST THE RIGHT PLACE TO BE IF YOU LOVE NATURE ... AND IF YOU ARE A ROMANTIC! Leave the city behind, turn off the motorway and jump into the joys of winter. Wonderful snowy landscapes, clean brisk air. Relaxing stillness instead of bars and après ski pubs. Far away from the stress of life, you can enjoy genuine winter romance. Just ideal for relaxation and having lots of fun in the snow. More and more people discover the advantages of the smaller, lesser known ski resorts. These are comfortable and friendly. The 56 AV JOURNAL 2006 landscape is untouched and you feel right at home. The peaceful Sarn Valley, for example, is a hot spot. The family-friendly ski resort near Reinswald offers beautiful and wellcared pistes for unspoilt winter fun. No endless queues at the lifts. Space to move about in the snow. The ‘Pensertal’ crosscountry trail could not be further away from being on a boring circular course, but offers pure enjoyment at a length of 24 km. The prices are still a bit lower than anywhere else, which makes the Sarn Valley with its true South Tyrolean culture and lifestyle even more attractive. Do you have a longing for nostalgia and elegance? Do you love romantic winter landscapes without any trouble? Then, the Ritten mountain is just the right place for you. The view from the peak of the Rittner Horn across the Etsch Valley and the Dolomite summits is stunning. The Ritten mountain will also give you lots of fun in the snow, on the pistes, as well as on the cross-country trails. However, also the romantics will not come up short. From the Ritten, you can reach quietness and get away from the buzzing centre of Bozen within minutes. Before lunch, you could go snow-shoe hiking or do some cross-country skiing and in the afternoon, the shops of Bozen await you. This is how varied a winter holiday can be at the Ritten. Stress and noise are all around us, day in day out. There is no logic reason to live through it all during your precious holiday. No wonder, that more and more people discover the advantages of untouched winter landscapes. Wellness – the natural way. Far into the South of Südtirol, where many people don’t think about winter holidays, you’ll find great offers at AldeinRadein with the Weißhorn mountain, the Jochgrimm and the Trudner Horn Nature Park - a perfect winter wellness scene. On a sunny terrace between 900 and 1,200 metres in altitude, you can undertake wonderful hiking trips in untouched snowy landscapes and still be only minutes away from the busy ski resorts. You feel like you’re in a different world. You are one with nature, relaxed and quiet inside. A real holiday! Stress and hectic are forgotten. And how? Simply by deciding that you don’t do what everyone else does. This is the special winter experience at the Trudner Horn or in Aldein-Radein, at the Salten mountain and its villages of Mölten and Jenesien. Individual winter adventures! Authentic natural beauty with romance, instead of overcrowded motorways. Just like it was years ago! You’ll see that it will do you a lot of good! Mountains covered in snow The winter season runs from the beginning of December to mid April. Enjoy an altitude of 1,000 to 3,000 metres: while skiing, cross-country skiing, snow-shoe hiking, snowboarding or enjoying a ride in a horse-drawn sledge. Further information on winter in the South of Südtirol look at www.ortlerskiarena.com Snow-shoe hiking Away from the ski-runs, you can experience South Tyrol’s winter landscape in snow-shoes. The 40 most beautiful tours are listed in the book ‘Schneeschuhwandern in Südtirol’ (snowshoe hiking in South Tyrol – with a compact information section about walking times, difference in altitude and grades of difficulty. Available in every bookshop or online at www.folioverlag.com PERSONALITY// PATRICK THALER Born in 1978, Sarn Valley. 2002 Italian Champion / Great Slalom. 2004 1st place in Europa Cup Total/Slalom. 2005 19th place in Slalom World Cup. 2005/2006 Member of the Italian National Team/Slalom. Fast ascent 80% of South Tyrol’s area is mountainous – only 8% of this is habitable. In 1908, the first cable railway in the world for transporting people was built: from Bozen to Kohlern (1,100 metres altitude). Today, 377 different lift facilities transport hikers and skiers from all over the world from our valley into the mountains. As quietly as the lake In winter, the bathing lakes transform themselves into large ice-skating courses: the Wolfsgrubner Lake, the Montiggle Lakes as well as Lake Kaltern. But attention! Ice-skating is only possible for a short while! Winter dreams between tradition & customs Bozen Christmas Market from 25th November to 23rd December Crib exhibition in the historic wine village of St. Pauls/Eppan in December ‘Klöckeln’ in the Sarn Valley the first 3 Thursdays during the Advent season „Alpenadvent“ in Sarnthein in December www.alpenadvent.sarntal.com DID YOU KNOW, THAT the ice rink at the Ritten mountain is the fastest open-air rink in the world? The combination of water (soft water) and the altitude (thin air) ensures that the fastest times can be measured. www.arenaritten.it in Reinswald you can find the longest toboggan run of South Tyrol? The 5,200 metres long course is extremely popular with the locals in full moon light. www.reinswald.com JOURNAL 2006 AV 57 GIRLAN CELLAR FESTIVAL 2005// On summer week-ends, we have a number of wine and village festivals organised for you EVENTS & HIGHLIGHTS IN THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL 365 DAYS OF DANCING, INDOOR OR OUTDOOR THEATRE, CONCERTS AT THE CASTLE OR IN THE PARK, PARADES, EXHIBITIONS, WINE TASTING OR GASTRONOMIC EVENTS. FOR MORE INFORMATION, CLICK www.suedtirols-sueden.info 58 AV JOURNAL 2006 THE FESTIVE TABLE// Event in the small streets of St. Pauls/ Eppan on 1st August 2006 SOUTH TYROLEAN SPECK Tradition says that it is necessary to slaughter animals and process their meat before and after Christmas. Pork legs are cured with salt and herbs. The mixed spices give speck its special taste. Then, at a maximum temperature of 20 degrees, the meat is smoked and then air-dried. After 22 weeks, the speck is ready to be eaten. www.speckfest.org EVENINGS UNDER A BLUE SKY Extended opening hours on Tuesdays in Auer during July and August. Extended opening hours on Wednesdays in St. Michael/ Eppan in July and August. – The shopping event! Extended shopping hours until 10 p.m., festive atmosphere in the traffic-free centre with live music, street artists and lots of other highlights! Sarn ‘Virwitzmitte’, a special evening in Sarnthein. Every Wednesday from the end of July to the end of August. ‘Laubenzauber’ in Neumarkt. Every Friday during July and August. ‘s’Traminer Dorfleben’ in Tramin. Every Wednesday from the end of July to the beginning of September the Tramin people present their culture, customs and crafts, linked with entertainment and extended shopping hours. Summer Holidays in Jenesien. Every Wednesday evening from mid July to the end of August. ‘Schronnenkuchl’, village highlights, concerts with music bands and jazz bands, family evenings. July Festival at the Ritten. Small street festivals with culinary highlights. Every Thursday in July. Alternating in Klobenstein, Oberbozen and Unterinn. Extended opening hours on Thursdays in Leifers during July, August and September. treff.kaltern – The longest shopping event in South Tyrol. In Kaltern in July and August. Castle concerts: Castle Enn near Montan/mid August. Castle Auer, Auer/mid August. Castle Rechtenthal in Tramin/3rd August. Haderburg near Salurn. In Eppan at the castles of Englar, Hocheppan and Boymont, at the Lanserhaus residence and in Kaltern at the castles of Kampan and Sallegg. Organ concerts in Kaltern and St. Pauls/Eppan Concert evenings ‘Music & Culture’ in Lengmoos, from May to October Jazz festival in Bozen in June Runkelstein Music Festival and Bozen Dance Summer in July International Music Summer. Eppan in July at Castle Englar and Lanserhaus residence, with master courses by Brigitte Fassbaender Musical – At the stage at Lake Kaltern in July Bozen Festival in August 2006 56th International Pianist Competition ‘F. Busoni’ 2006-2007 end of August/beginning of September in Bozen CONCERTS & EVENTS Ritten Summer Festival in Lengmoos, end of July/mid August CURTAIN UP New town theatre of Bozen and concert house ‘Josef Haydn’, addresses in South Tyrol with 30 to 50 events each month, ranging from theatre to ballet, dance and music events, as well as opera and musicals. Time-table 2005/2006 on www.ntbz.net or www.theater-bozen.it JOURNAL 2006 AV 59 ALWAYS ACTION IN BOZEN// The best pubs are around the Fruit Market Lowland Open-Air Festival in Neumarkt, end of July/mid August IT’S FESTIVAL TIME There is always a good time to have a party. South Tyrol offers you the opportunity to follow this motto all year round: from the traditional speck festival to parish church events, from jazz festivals with an international cast to folk theatre. Events under www.suedtirols-sueden.info WINE FESTIVALS, VILLAGE FESTIVALS & OTHER EVENTS 84th Bozen Weinkost End of April at Castle Maretsch in Bozen wein.kaltern – Hiking, excitement, enjoyment, 23rd April International Eppan Castle Ride from 29th April to 1st May Maypole Festival in Terlan and August on 1st May South Tyrolean Pinot Nero Days in Montan and Neumarkt in May 3-day Archway Festival in Salurn at Whitsun, 2nd- 4th June Whitsun Festival in Terlan, 3rd-4th June 125th Anniversary of the Leifers Music Band, 20th-21st May South Tyrolean Speck Festival in Bozen, 25th-28th May Parish Festival in Leifers, 27th-28th May Rudy Giovannini’s Köfele Festival in Leifers on 10th June Seit Parish Day on 10th June Kurtatsch Parish Day with village festival on 28th June Gewürztraminer Wine Road in Tramin on 13th July Magdalene Parish Day near Bozen on 22nd July Wine Culture Weeks in St. Pauls/Eppan 60 AV JOURNAL 2006 from 27th July to 8th August Kaltern Market Festival on 29th-30th July Marksmen Festival in Altrei, end of July The Festive Table in St. Pauls/Eppan on 1st August Hay Festival in Gfrill on 6th August Lorenzi Night in Bozen on 10th August Wine Festival in Kaltern from 11th to 14th August Oberbozen Parish Day on 15th August Village Festival in Montan in August Leifers Festival during the last week in August and first week in September St. Pauls Village Festival in St. Pauls/Eppan beginning of September Kurtatsch ‘Wimmet’ Festival, beginning of September Vilpian Parish Day on 3rd September Kaltern Wine Days on 7th and 8th September ‘Schupfen’Festival at the Salten/Jenesien on 17th September Tramin Autumn Festival in Tramin on 30th September and 1st October ‘Last Grape Cart’ in Girlan/Eppan in October Pumpkin Festival in Bozen in October Tramin Wine Street in Tramin on 21st October Lowland Wine Tasting Week in Auer, end of October Kastelruther Spatzen Festival in Kastelruth, 6th-8th October TRADITION & CUSTOMS Leifers Carnival Parade on 19th February Joseph Market in Salurn on 19th March Markus Market in Auer on 25th April Fair Market in Leifers on 28th May and 1st October CHRISTMAS MARKET BOZEN// Tip: Shopping & Winning The Christmas lotteries in the villages are very interesting! Etsch Rafting in Branzoll in June/July Heart of Jesus Procession with village festival in Aldein in June Parish Day in Mölten on 15th August Cattle Drive on ‘Bartlmä’ at the Ritten Alpine meadows on 24th August Cattle Drive in Aldein in August/September Sarn Parish Day in Sarnthein, 2nd to 4th September Cattle Drive in Altrei, end of September Folk Music Evening ‘s’herbstelet’ in Tramin on 19th October Martini Festival and Shooting Event at the historic shooting range in St. Michael/Eppan in November Martini Market in Girlan/Eppan on 11th November Martini Market and Village Festival with goose drive in Kurtinig on 11th November Andreas Market in Salurn on 30th November ‘Klöckeln’ in the Sarn Valley, first 3 Thursdays in Advent Bozen Christmas Market from 25th November to 23rd December Crib Exhibition in the historic wine village of St. Pauls/ Eppan in December ‘Alpine Advent’ in Sarnthein in December SPORTS INFORMATION World Cup Sprint in speed skating at the Ritten from 28th to 29th January Hafling Horse Sledge and Ski Jöring Run at the Salten mountain, Jenesien, 29th January Women’s’ Europa Cup Run – Downhill & Super G in Reinswald, 6th to 9th February Snowboard Contest ‘Horn of Flames’ at the Ritten Horn in February International Tournament in Curling in Auer in February International Yacht Regatta at Lake Kaltern in April/May and September Traditional Folk Cycling in Andrian on 1st May Oldtimermeeting in Bozen on 21st May South Tyrolean Nostalgy Run from San Lugano to Montan on 27th May International Triathlon at Lake Kaltern in May International Wine Road Tournament German Shepherds in Eppan at Whitsun Competition with historic bows at the bow route in the Eppan Castle Triangle in July Giro delle Dolomiti (Tour de Dolomites) from 30th July to 5th August Pichlberg – Duathlon mid August in Sarn Valley South Tyrolean Running Tour in Neumarkt & surroundings,18th-20th August International Futures ATP Tennis Tournament Rungg/Girlan, end of August Fit for Business – Company tournament Neumarkt, 1st September Mountain Run Leifers Weißenstein 3rd September Motocross Hill Climbing in Sarnthein, 9th September South Tyrolean Marathon in Neumarkt, 8th October Half Marathon villages of Leifers, Branzoll, Pfatten on 22nd October Ice Gala in Bozen, end of December New Year’s Eve Run ‘Boclassic’ 31st December, Bozen city centre JOURNAL 2006 AV 61 GOURMET OUR BEST Whether you are in a renowned pub with stars, an award winning restaurant, a fine gourmet or aristocratic castle restaurant, a farming pub with tradition, an inviting pizzeria, a simple but unique snack bar, a mountain hut or a similar place: the South of Südtirol always has something to offer you. This is confirmed by important restaurant and gourmet guides, which present different types of awards each year to gastronomy locations in the South of Südtirol. Edition 2005 Gasthaus Hopfen & Co. Restaurant Hostaria Argentieri Restaurant Luna-Mondschein Gasthof Kohlern Restaurant Laurin Belle Epoque Restaurant Vögele Restaurant Walthers‘ Restaurant Zur Kaiserkron Restaurant Pra Meisa Bistro Reinisch Vinoveris Gasthof Patauner Landgasthof Bad Turmbach Restaurant Marklhof Restaurant Zur Rose Restaurant Ansitz Pillhof Restaurant Castel Ringberg Restaurant Ritterhof Restaurant Schlosskeller Restaurant Siegi‘s Gasthaus Zur Rose Buschenschank Santlhof Restaurant Johnson & Dipoli Restaurant Tenz Restaurant Auener Hof Restaurant Bad Schörgau Restaurant Bar Günter Gasthof Ansitz Kematen Gasthaus Patscheiderhof Restaurant Holzner Restaurant Berghofer Restaurant Zirmerhof Restaurant Krone Restaurant Ploner Restaurant Zur Mühle 62 AV JOURNAL 2006 L‘Espresso & Gault Millau Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Terlan Eppan Eppan Eppan Eppan Kaltern Kaltern Kaltern Kaltern Kurtatsch Kurtatsch Neumarkt Montan Sarntal Sarntal Sarntal Ritten Ritten Ritten Radein Radein Aldein Aldein Truden Osterie d‘Italia 2005/2006 Gasthaus Weißes Rössl Gasthaus Hopfen & Co. Gasthof Kohlern Gasthaus Batzenhäusl Gasthof Unterweg Restaurant Schwarzer Adler Restaurant Badl Buschenschank Santlhof Gasthof Fichtenhof Gasthof Dorfnerhof Gasthof Tschürtsch Gasthaus Patscheiderhof Gasthof Signaterhof Restaurant Krone Gambero Rosso 12,5/20 12,5/20 13,5/20 mentioned 13/20 13/20 80/100 76/100 Bozen Bozen Bozen Bozen Jenesien Andrian Kaltern Kurtatsch Salurn Montan Auer Ritten Ritten Aldein Michelin Guida Rossa * * * * * * * * * * * * * Veronelli 82/100 78/100 14/20 mentioned mentioned mentioned 84/100 13,5/20 16/20 mentioned 14/20 85/100 78/100 89/100 82/100 mentioned 13,5/20 mentioned mentioned 14/20 14/20 75/100 mentioned 75/100 82/100 83/100 mentioned 12,5/20 13/20 mentioned 81/100 12,5/20 13,5/20 14/20 mentioned 80/100 82/100 mentioned BACCHUS EXCELLENT WINES The road to the success of the South Tyrolean wines is visible from afar: in renowned Italian wine guides, they have South Tyrolean wines on the top of the list. And this is not enough: In 2000, the wine cellars of St. Michael/Eppan were awarded the ‘Cantina dell’Anno’ by Gambero Rosso – the best wine cellar of the year in all of Italy. Cellar master Willi Stürz of the Tramin wine cellars was awarded the best cellar master of DUEMILAVINI AIS 2006 ’5 GRAPPOLI’ Cabernet Mumelter Riserva 2002 Wine cellar Bozen Lagrein Taber Riserva 2002 Wine cellar Bozen Lagrein Abtei Muri Riserva 2002 Wine cellar Muri-Gries, Bozen Terlaner Chardonnay 1993 Wine cellar Terlan Terlaner Sauvignon Quarz 2003 Wine cellar Terlan Cabernet Sanct Valentin 2002 Wine cellar St. Michael/Eppan Sauvignon Sanct Valentin 2004 Wine cellar St. Michael/Eppan Cabernet Sauvignon Lafòa 2002 Wine cellar Schreckbichl/Eppan Goldmuskateller Serenade Passito 2002 Wine cellar Kaltern Amistar Rosso Edizione 2002 Peter Sölva & Söhne, Kaltern Beyond the Clouds 2003 Elena Walch, Tramin Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof 2004 J. Hofstätter, Tramin Pinot Nero Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano 2002 J. Hofstätter, Tramin Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2004 Wine cellar Tramin Gewürztraminer Vendemmia Tardiva Terminum 03 Wine cellar Tramin Goldmuskateller Passito Baronesse Baron Salvadori 2003 Wine cellar Nals-Margreid Rosenmuskateller 2004 Franz Haas, Montan Pinot Nero Schweizer 2002 Franz Haas, Montan GUIDA ESPRESSO „VINI D’ITALIA“ 06 ‘5 BOTTIGLIE’ Goldmuskateller Vinalia 2003 Wine cellar Bozen Italy by the same guide in 2004. In 2005, the wine cellars of Terlan received an award for their price – performance ratio for the Terlan Pinot Bianco with the national ‘Oscar qualitàprezzo’. Up-to-date wine news and other awards at www.suedtirolerwein.com Terlaner Chardonnay 1993 Wine cellar Terlan Terlaner Sauvignon Quarz 2003 Wine cellar Terlan Gewürztraminer Vendemmia Tardiva Terminum 2003 Wine cellar Tramin Gewürztraminer Baron Salvadori 2004 Wine cellar Nals-Margreid I VINI DI VERONELLI 2006 ’SUPER TRE STELLE’ Lagrein-Merlot Mauritius 2003 Lagrein Riserva Taber 2003 Wine cellar Bozen Terlaner Chardonnay 1993 Terlaner classico Nova Domus 2003 Wine cellar Terlan Chardonnay Cornell 2003 Wine cellar Schreckbichl Lagrein aus Gries Riserva 2003 Euforius Vigneti delle Dolomiti Rosso 2003 Josef Niedermayr, Girlan Chardonnay Sanct Valentin 2003 Gewürztraminer Sanct Valentin 2004 Wine cellar St. Michael/Eppan Gewürztraminer Tenuta Freienfeld 2004 Wine cellar Kurtatsch Contest Hirschprunn Mitterberg 2000 Casón Hirschprunn, Alois Lageder, Margreid Goldmuskateller Passito Baronesse Baron Salvadori 2003 Wine cellar Nals-Margreid Chardonnay Passito Aurum 2003 Happacherhof, Auer Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Iugum 2003 Peter Dipoli, Neumarkt Manna Vigneti delle Dolomiti Bianco 2003 Fanz Haas, Montan Rosenmuskateller 2002 Winery Laimburg, Pfatten FALSTAFF WEINGUIDE 05/06 (93-95 of 100 points) Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2004 Gewürztraminer Terminum 2003 Wine cellar Tramin Gewürztraminer Ansitz Freienfeld 2004 Merlot Ansitz Freienfeld 2002 Wine cellar Kurtatsch Blauburgunder Vigna S. Urbano 2002 J. Hofstätter, Tramin Merlot Cabernet Arzio 2003 Baron di Pauli, Kaltern Lagrein Merlot Mauritius 2003 Goldmuskateller Vinalia 2003 Wine cellar Bozen/Gries, Bozen Cabernet Sauvignon Còr Römigberg 2000 Alois Lageder, Margreid Cassiano 2002 Manincor, Kaltern GAMBERO ROSSO ’3 GLASSES 2006’ Lagrein Riserva Abtei Wine cellar Muri-Gries, Bozen 2002 Lagrein Taber Wine cellar Bozen 2003 Goldmuskateller Passito Vinalia 2003 Wine cellar Bozen Lagrein Riserva Grieser Select Hans Rottensteiner, Bozen 2002 Sauvignon St. Valentin Wine cellar St. Michael/Eppan 2004 Stoan Wine cellarTramin 2004 Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer Wine cellar Tramin 2004 Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof J. Hofstätter, Tramin 2004 Gewürztraminer Kastelaz Elena Walch, Tramin 2004 Weißburgunder Vorberg Wine cellar Terlan 2002 Lagrein Porphyr Wine cellar Terlan 2002 Blauburgunder Schweizer Franz Haas, Montan 2002 Sauvignon Palladium Martini & Sohn, Girlan/Eppan 2004 JOURNAL 2006 AV 63 CULTURE MUSEUMS & CHURCHES THERE ARE 70 MUSEUMS ALL OVER THE REGION: ARCHAEOLOGY AND CULTURAL HISTORY, NATURAL HISTORY AND AGRICULTURE. OPENING TIMES AND INFORMATION ON THE INDIVIDUAL MUSEUMS AT www.provinz.bz.it/museenfuehrer MUSEUMS & MORE MUSEUMS CHURCHES & LITTLE CHAPELS The Nature Museum in Bozen offers regular scientific exhibitions. Main attraction is the sea water aquarium. Tel. +39 0471 974 625. Castle Moos-Schulthaus near Eppan is a museum describing life and culture for the Middle Ages. Regular guided tours. Sundays and Mondays closed. Tel. +39 0471 660 139. In the South Tyrolean Wine Museum in Kaltern, they exhibit pieces describing the history of wine. Mondays closed. Information & guided tours on Tel. +39 0471 963 168 or 0474 552 087. The Tramin Village Museum exhibits tools from wine and farming agriculture, craftsmanship and normal farmhouses. Sundays and Mondays closed. Tel. +39 0471 860 132. The Museum ‘Zeitreise Mensch’ (human time travel) in ‘Ansitz am Orth’ in Kurtatsch offers some insight into the life of the Stone Age to Modern Times. Tel. +39 0471 880 267. In Neumarkt, there is a Museum for Everyday Culture. Middle Ages living culture. The Fossil Museum in Mölten shows minerals and fossils from South Tyrol. Guided tours by request at the tourist board. The Plattner Bienenhof (Platten Bee’s Farmhouse) in Oberbozen, is South Tyrol’s only apiary museum. Open from Easter to All Saints’ Day, daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tel. +39 0471 345 350. The Village Museum in Aldein (May to October) reflects art and religious culture of the Baroque and Rococo Times. The mill museum is particularly special. In Radein, there is a Geological Museum worth visiting. The Nature Park House in Truden offers some insight into the cultural landscapes and the cultural history of the Trudner Horn Nature Park. Mondays closed. Tel. +39 0471 869 247. Detailed information in the local tourist offices. Bozen: The Old Gries Parish Church accommodates the famous Gothic wing altar by Michael Pacher. In the Gothic Franciscan Church there is a shrine altar with carved wing doors by Hans Klocker. It is worth visiting the frescoes from the Giotto School in the Johannis chapel of the Early Gothic Dominican Church. Also see the Gothic dome at the Waltherplatz. The Parish Church in Terlan is a high-Gothic building of the 14th Century. The small Romanic side tower was built in the 13th Century and the colourfully glazed tiled roof of the LateGothic tower from the 16th Century. The frescoes of the ‘Bozen School’ are from the 14th Century. The Gothic Parish church in St. Pauls/Eppan, the ‘country cathedral’ was built between 1460 and 1560. Due to the long building time, it has elements of the Renaissance and Baroque. The ruins of the Basilica St. Peter in Kaltern/Altenburg are a three-nave basilica from the time of Christianisation (4th Century). In the porphyry rock behind the church, there are 10 shelllike hollows from around 3,000 B.C. The apse of the St. Jacob’s chapel on the hill of Kastelaz, just above Tramin, is decorated by fighting mythical figures in a ghostly round dance (around 1,200 A.D.). The castle chapel of Castle Hocheppan accommodated the Roman painting of a person eating knödel. The St. Peter’s church near Auer is a Gothic building from the 15th Century. The Roman church tower was built during the 12th Century. The church houses the oldest playable organ in South Tyrol. The Stephen’s church near Pinzon in Montan with its famous Hans Klocker altar is particularly worth a visit. The keys are available in the church hall. In Leifers, it is possible to visit the St. Peter’s chapel at the Köfele, which was built during the 13th Century. It has a round apse. The ‘Klösterle’ hospital near Neumarkt was built in 1220 and extended in 1300. It is one of the best kept hospitals in Europe. It is said, that Dürer stayed here overnight during his Italian travels. In Lengmoos, which was built around 1,200 A.D., there was a place for the emperors to stop on their way to Rome. The churches in St. Cyprian/Sarnthein, St. Nikolaus/Durnholz and St. Valentin/Gentersberg house particularly valuable fresco cycles. The South Tyrolean Archaeological Museum or ‘Ötzi Museum’ in Bozen is a must for every visitor to South Tyrol. It gives insight to different historic epochs in South Tyrol. Undoubtedly, the major attraction of the museum is Ötzi, the ice-man. Tel. +39 0471 320 100. www.iceman.it 64 AV JOURNAL 2006 AGENDA IN & AROUND SOUTH TYROL EXPERIENCE SOUTH TYROL IN ALL ITS BEAUTY. NOWHERE ELSE IS THIS POSSIBLE THAN IN THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL: IN PICTURESQUE WINE AND IDYLLIC MOUNTAIN VILLAGES OR IN THE BUZZING TOWN OF BOZEN. YOU WILL FIND EVE RYTHING FROM MEDITERRANEAN TO HIGHALPINE. SOME POINTS YOU SHOULD NOT MISS WHILE IN SOUTH TYROL: Castle Trauttmansdorff/Meran An excursion to the Seiser Alm and into the Dolomites is not only something for mountaineers and adventurers. The wide high-Alpine meadows and jagged mountain peaks are fascinating natural landscapes. A short trip to the former spa town of Meran is also a must. Watch the art nouveau architecture and charming promenades, which bear witness to times gone by. It is also worth seeing the historic centres of Klausen, Brixen and Sterzing, as well as Glurns, the smallest town in South Tyrol. Lake Garda is approximately 80 km away. With its lovely, characteristic villages and idyllic places, it is a popular holiday destination. A varied summer programme is on offer at the Arena of Verona, where entertainment is guaranteed for all opera lovers. Venice is approx. 220 km away and can be visited on a day trip. Further information about organised tours is available in the local tourist offices. CASTLE TRAUTTMANSDORFF The gardens of Castle Trauttmansdorff are worth seeing not only because of the variety of fauna. The castle, the former Dome/Brixen winter residence of Empress Sissi of Austria, houses the ‘Touriseum’. This museum gives you some entertaining insight into 200 years of Alpine tourism. For further information and concerts: www.trauttmansdorff.it MERANO THERMAL BATHS An oasis of physical and spiritual health, rich in tradition in the famous spa town. Wellness and proven therapies in the midst of unique architecture. www.thermemeran.it ‘TIME TRAVEL IN SOUTH TYROL’ Enjoyable tours with Vintage Cars through wonderful vineyards, romantic villages and impressive mountain pass roads in South Tyrol and further away. Together with an optimal service package: from detailed road book (in German) with the best routes and places of interest to Vintage Carfriendly accommodation and meetings in local clubs. Please write to us if you need further information! [email protected] JOURNAL 2006 AV 65 INT. DIALLING: 0039 CONTACT SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL CHARMING & MYSTERIOUS Do you know and love South Tyrol ... and particularly the South of Südtirol? Then quiz with us and win a one week holiday into the charming south. And if you should get stuck with a question – no need to worry! Most answers can be found in this brochure. One more tip: the solutions are words from our lovely dialect... Have fun! Tramin carnival costum 9 Cable railway, 1903 13 9 TOURIST OFFICE EPPAN Rathausplatz 01 • I-39057 Eppan on the Wineroad Tel. 0471 662 206 • Fax 0471 663 546 www.eppan.net 4 Capital of province (in Italian) 6 Autumn custom 7 11 Canyon 3 Mummy 1 Author, Eppan 1 Language frontier, place TOURIST OFFICE SÜDTIROLER UNTERLAND Hptm. Schweiggl-Platz 8 • I-39040 Kurtatsch o.t.W. Tel. 0471 880 100 • Fax. 0471 880 451 www.suedtiroler-unterland.it 2 Local type of horse 7 Personality at the Ritten 4 Ski resort 2 TOURIST OFFICE SALURN Rathausplatz 2 • I-39040 Salurn on the Wineroad Tel. + Fax 0471 884 279 [email protected] Most southern nature park 6 TOURIST OFFICE CASTELFEDER Hauptplatz 5 • I-39040 Auer Tel. 0471 810 231 • Fax 0471 811 138 www.castelfeder.info 4 Mountain range 3 South Tyrol (in Italian) TOURIST OFFICE LEIFERS BRANZOLL PFATTEN Kennedystr. 75d • I-39055 Leifers Tel. 0471 950 420 • Fax. 0471 951 226 www.leifers-info.it 12 10 Fairy-tale castle 6 Asparagus stronghold, place TOURIST OFFICE MÖLTEN Dorf • I-39010 Mölten Tel. 0471 668 282 • Fax 0471 667 228 www.moelten.net 8 Highest sparkling wine cellar in Europe, place 5 Climbing garden, Kurtatsch 1 Oldest wine cellar, place South Tyrolean farewell 2 5 1ST PRIZE: one week for 2 people with half board in a 2 ND TH 4 star hotel in the South of Südtirol. – 10 PRIZES: a little surprise Conditions for participation: Everyone can take part in the ‘Rätselraten’ quiz, by writing the correct answers on the postcard. Residents of South Tyrol are not allowed to participate. Closing date for entries is 15th November 2006. The draw will take place mid December 2006 and the winners will be contacted by writing. The first prize must be used before 31st August 2007. The prizes for places 2 to 10 will be sent to you by post. The judge’s decision is final. The equivalent of money is not permissible. The above named conditions are valid. 66 AV JOURNAL 2006 TOURIST OFFICE KALTERN Marktplatz 8 • I-39052 Kaltern on the Wineroad Tel. 0471 963 169 • Fax 0471 963 469 www.kaltern.com TOURIST OFFICE TRAMIN Julius-v.-Payer-Str. 1 • I-39040 Tramin o.t. Wineroad Tel. 0471 860 131 • Fax 0471 860 820 www.tramin.com 3 Pop singer, Leifers TOURIST OFFICE TERLAN Dr.-Weiser-Platz 2 • I-39018 Terlan Tel. 0471 257 165 • Fax 0471 257 830 www.terlan.info 8 Local architectural style Mystic hill BOZEN MOUNTAIN & VALLEY Waltherplatz 8 • I-39100 Bozen Tel. 0471 307 000 • Fax 0471 980 128 www.bolzano-bozen.it www.jenesien.net TOURIST OFFICE ANDRIAN Wehrburgstraße 1a • I-39010 Andrian Tel. 0471 510 100 • Fax 0471 510 642 www.andrian.info 5 Autochthonic wine grape TOURISMUSVERBAND SÜDTIROLS SÜDEN Pillhof 1 • I-39010 Frangart (Bozen) Tel. 0471 633 488 • Fax 0471 633 367 www.suedtirols-sueden.info TOURIST OFFICE SARNTAL Europastraße 15 • I-39058 Sarnthein Tel. 0471 623 091 • Fax 0471 622 350 www.sarntal.com TOURIST OFFICE RITTEN Dorfstraße 5 • I-39054 Klobenstein Tel. 0471 356 100 • Fax 0471 356 799 www.ritten.com TOURIST OFFICE ALDEIN RADEIN Dorf 34 • I-39040 Aldein Tel. 0471 886 800 • Fax. 0471 886 666 www.aldein-radein.it TOURIST OFFICE WANDERGEBIET NATURPARK TRUDNER HORN Am Kofl 2 • I-39040 Truden Tel. 0471 869 078 • Fax 0471 869 278 www.trudnerhorn.com PUBLISHER Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden BY CAR Surname TEXTS JOURNAL Georg Weindl André Bechtold Herbert Taschler Herbert Rosendorfer Beatrix Unterhofer Roswitha Mair PHOTOS Archives Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden, Archives Tappeiner AG/Lana, Archives of associated tourist offices, Thuniversum, Michael Schindel, Free University of Bozen, Luis T. GmbH, SMG/Frieder Blickle, Consortium Südtiroler Speck, Sarner Natur GmbH, Walter Gimplinger, Private collection of Reinhold Messner, private collection of Beatrix Unterhofer PRINT Athesia/Bozen On the Munich-Innsbruck-Verona line to Boze where all trains stop. Bus station is very near the train station, where buses go to all villages in South of Südtirol. Train time-table under: www.trenitaliaplus.com Bus time-table for South Tyrol under: www.sii.bz.it EDITION 2006 Total edition of 170,500 125,000 in German 37,000 in Italian 5,000 in English 3,500 in Dutch BY FLIGHT Airport Bozen Dolomiten Flights from/to Dortmund, Hanover, Berlin Tempelhof, Zurich, Rome and Milan see advertisement on page 2. www.abd-airport.it – Tel. +39 0471 255 255 ”Valerio Catullo” Airport, Villafranca, Verona Situated directly on the Brenner motorway, only 120 km from the Neumarkt/Auer exit. Taxis and car hire available. There is a shuttle connection every 20 minutes to Verona Railway Station (approx. 10km). Trains run regulary to Bozen and Auer where you can be picked up by your hotel owner. Information about flight times: from Airport ”Valerio Catullo”, Verona, Tel. +39 045 80 95 666 RENT A CAR : At the local tourist office TRANSLATIONS Cizeta Studio/Meran DATE OF PUBLISHING Annually – end of October WEATHER FORECAST Weather report, forecast, latest pollen count under www.provinz.bz.it/wetter or Tel. +39 0471 271 177 CLIMATE IN SOUTH TIROL WITH MORE THAN 300 SUNNY DAYS PER YEAR WITH THE FRIENDLY SUPPORT OF THE DISTRICT COUNCIL ÜBERETSCH-UNTERLAND EDITOR’S REMARK Despite careful selection of sources, we cannot accept any responsibility for the correctness of this content. Reprint and use only after written confirmation through the editor. © 2005 Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden All rights reserved. house number TOURISMUSVERBAND SÜDTIROLS SÜDEN Pillhofstr. 1 Postcode and town I-39010 Frangart (Bozen) State GRAPHICS/CONCEPT www.tappeiner.it BY TRAIN Alps Fly Reservation GmbH [email protected] www.suedtirol.info – Tel. +39 349 21 61 373 Street A R S VIVEN D I J O U R N A L 2006 (Please write in capital letters ) EDITOR IN CHIEF Hansjörg Mair Firstname IMPORTANT NOTICE FOR DRIVERS: In Italy, you must have your headlights switched on at all times. In addition, you always need safety vests. stamp SENDER: CO-ORDINATION Roswitha Mair From Munich in approximately 3.5 hours via the motorway (Rosenheim – Kufstein – Innsbruck - Brenner) until you come to the motorway exit ’Bozen Nord’. Take this exit, drive in the direction of Bozen and toward the Ritten mountain. From the motorway exit ‘Bozen Süd’, you must follow the signs in the direction of ’Sarntal’ (Sarn Valley) or in the direction of Trient in order to reach Leifers, Branzoll and Pfatten. If you want to go to Eppan and Kaltern, you take the dual carriage way Meran-Bozen for some kilimetres in the direction of Meran and then take the first exit. To reach the villages Terlan, Mölten and Andrian, take the second exit, and for Vilpian the third exit. From the motorway exit ‘Neumarkt - Auer‘, turn in a westerly direction (turn right) and you will come to Kaltern, Tramin, Kurtatsch, Margreid and Kurtinig. In an easterly direction (turn left), you will come to Neumarkt, Auer, Salurn, Montan, Aldein, Truden-San Lugano and Altrei. Apply SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL CHARMING & MYSTERIOUS Südtirol - ITALY Int. Dialling and tel. number Request card to Hotel, Landlord etc. INFORMATION REQUEST//BOOKING CARD Apply stamp Plaece send me your house brochure and price list and special offers I wish to book with you, please make me an offer for the period from or from to to We are adults and children of the ages request accommodation with breakfast half board single room double room room with bath/shower/WC and holiday flat double room with third bed Special request A R S VIVENDI JO UR NA L 2006 HOW TO REACH THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL IMPRESSUM First- and surname Street and house number Postcode/town Südtirol - ITALY Int. Dialling and tel. number Enquiry card for brochure and accommodation must be sent to: Enquiry card for the town brochure and accommodation must be sent to: Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden Pillhofstraße 1 I-39010 Frangart (BZ) or one of the 15 Tourist offices Please send me Please send me copies of: ARS VIVENDI JOURNAL & ACCOMMODATION Apply stamp (see address on page 66) copies of: TOWN BROCHURE WITH ACCOMMODATION special offers special request: A RS VIVEN D I J O UR N A L 20 06 INFO First- and surname Street and house number Postcode/town Int. Dialling and tel. number Südtirol - ITALY 13 JO UR N A L 2006 EXTRA//ACCOMMODATION 2006 Official list of accommodation, with prices! 9 8 FAX ENQUIRY JOU RNAL 2 0 0 6 To the Tourist Board South of Südtirol or another Tourist office To Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden Fax 0039 0471 633 367 Please send me copies of ARS VIVENDI JOURNAL & ACCOMMODATION or one of the 15 Tourist offices (see address on page 66) TOWN BROCHURE & SPECIAL OFFERS ACCOMMODATION Name of town Special requests First- and surname Street and house number Post code and town www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it Closing date: 15th November 2006 4 2 1 3 5 6 7 6 4 2 1 3 5 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Please insert your answer here: 8 9 10 11 12 2006 Int. Dialling code/tel. number Fax. number South Tyrolean Wine Road Julius-v.-Payer-Str. 1 I-39040 Tramin Tel. +39 0471 860 131 Fax +39 0471 860 820 www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it [email protected] JOURNAL TOURISMUSVERBAND SÜDTIROLS SÜDEN Pillhofstr. 1 I-39010 Frangart (Bozen) Tel. +39 0471 633 488 Fax +39 0471 633 367 [email protected] www.suedtirols-sueden.info MMM FIRMIAN Opening Easter 2006 WINE EMOTIONS Along the South Tyrolean Wine Road THE CRADLE OF SUMMER HOLIDAYS A nostalgic excursion to the Ritten mountain ‘BELLA FIGURA’ WITH MOUNTAIN VIEW Bolzano Bozen Fascinating Opposites w w w. s u e d t i r o l s - s u e d e n . i n f o