A Vintage Swimsuit for Baby Ellis

Transcription

TECHNIQUE: Embroidering on Lycra
MATERIALS (for Bathing Suit)
Pattern
• Sizes 3 months to 24 months
Fabric
• 5/8 to 1 yd Lycra knit suitable for swimwear*
• 1/8 yd red Lycra knit suitable for swimwear
(for sand pail appliqué only)
• 5/8 to 1 yd swimwear lining
Equipment and Notions
• Sewing machine with embroidery
capabilities (Husqvarna Viking #1 used)
• Serger with cover stitch capabilities (preferred)
OR
• Double needle for topstitching 4.0/80 size
• Embroidery design of your choice
Embroideries shown are:
• Snoopy Surfing design #8 from Peanuts®
Summertime Fun Husqvarna Viking Multiformat CD-ROM
• Sand Pail appliqué SIG37018 from Cactus
Punch
• Race Car design TRN019 from Embroidery.com
Threads
• Sulky® Machine Embroidery Threads (colors
depend on design selected and can be
altered to suit background fabric as desired)
• Polyester thread to match swimwear fabric
• Optional: Wooly nylon
*Fabrics and linings were purchased from
Carol’s Fabric Shop, 1325 N. Carpenter Rd.,
Brunswick, OH 44212, phone (330) 225-4436
A Vintage Swimsuit
for Baby Ellis
By Amelia Johanson
Our vintage-look swimsuit for a baby boy
keeps more of his delicate skin safe from the
sun while letting him splash around in
old-fashioned style.
© 2012 Sew Beautiful | www.SewBeautifulmag.com
MATERIALS (for Cover-Up)
Pattern
• Jon-Jon pattern from Martha’s Favorite
Appliqué book by Martha Pullen
Fabric (according to book)
• Terry cloth with frayed selvage
• Scrap of red Lycra knit suitable for swimwear
(for sand pail appliqué)
Equipment and Notions
• Sewing machine with Embroidery capabilities
(Husqvarna Viking #1 used)
• Sand pail embroidery design (see bathing
suit materials)
• One large red and one large yellow button
• Sulky® Solvy
• Sulky® KK 2000 Temporary Spray Adhesive
• Sulky® adhesive stabilizer
Thread
• Sulky® Machine Embroidery Threads
(specific for swimsuit and cover-up; stitching
color order is in ( )
#1037 red for appliqué stitch line (1)
and pail (6)
#1149 tan for sand (3)
#1001 white for pail line (4)
and highlights (7)
#1237 dusty red for pail (5)
and shading (10)
#1037 red for pail (6)
#1049 green for spade (8)
#1187 yellow for spade handle (9)
#1028 blue for pail handle (11)
TM
TM
1
NOTE: Working with Lycra knit takes special care, as does machine
embroidering on the stretchy material. Read over the tips provided
before attempting suit construction.
I’ve never cared for the look of swimsuits for baby boys.
Their little tummies are constrained by a band of elastic; their
swimmy diapers hang out the back. Manufacturers cut the legs
too long so that they reach way below baby’s knees making it
difficult to toddle. Even worse, however is all that baby fresh
skin on the torso is exposed for inevitable sunburn. That being the case, I set out in search of a one-piece, old-fashioned
suit for my son. I found them online at high-end sites that
carried baby apparel – imagine something that takes less
than a yard of fabric going for upwards of $50. Considering
he’d wear it one summer and probably snag the seat after the
first wearing, I couldn’t justify the expense. Instead, I decided
to fashion my own vintage swimsuit for baby Ellis. I made
one suit the first summer with a matching terry cloth cover
up, then made three more the next summer all embellished
with cute machine embroidery. I doubt the cost for all four
amounted to much more than $50.
GENERAL TIPS
Working With Lycra
• Wash and dry yardage before cutting out pattern. Lycra
fabrics will shrink. Swimwear fabrics should be hand washed
or machine washed in the gentle cycle in cool temperatures
and hung to dry.
• Determine the stretch of the fabric and lay the fabric with
the most stretch going around the body.
• Use very sharp pins to secure pattern and cut out with
sharp scissors or special scissors with a serrated blade (reduces slipping).
• Use a 75/11 or 70/10 ball point needle.
• Sewing Machine: Stitch length needs to be a 2 to 2.5, with
a slight zigzag of 1 to 1.5. If your machine has stretch setting
options, choose medium stretch. Finish seams with a zigzag
or a three- or four-thread serger with wooly nylon in both
loopers. Double needle topstitching with a stretch stitch
option lends a nice look around arm, neck and leg openings,
but does limit the Lycra from stretching some in those areas.
• Serger: The best finish for hems around neck, arm and leg
openings is a cover stitch option on a serger with good-quality
polyester serger thread or wooly nylon.
EMBROIDERING ON LYCRA
The biggest challenge in making these swimsuits is
learning to machine embroider on Lycra without causing
puckers. The key, as in all machine embroidery is in the
stabilizing process.
1. Determine where you want to place embroidery. On
suits shown with single embroidery motif, design center was
placed approximately 5-1/2 inches from traced neckline
edge. On race car suit, top race car center was positioned 4
inches from traced neckline edge, and there are approximately
3-1/4 inches between race car centers. NOTE: If you have
excess fabric, it’s much easier to simply stitch out the motif on a
larger rectangle, then worry about positioning the pattern over
the embroidery afterwards.
2. Securely hoop a piece of adhesive tear-away stabilizer.
Score with a pin to expose sticky surface.
3. Cut two sheets of Solvy™ larger than the embroidery design.
Spray right side of bathing suit fabric in area to be embroidered
with temporary spray adhesive and attach a sheet of Solvy™,
lightly spray again and attach the second sheet.
2
4. Adhere bathing suit fabric with Solvy™ to hooped stabilizer.
You should have a sandwich of two layers of Solvy™, a layer of
fabric, and a layer of hooped stabilizer. If you’ve traced the neckline off before this step, it is necessary to align fabric so that the
embroidery center will stitch according to the placement suggested
in step 1. If you are tracing off the pattern after the embroidery
process, be sure to leave enough fabric around the embroidery to
be able to position the pattern properly.
5. Take hoop to machine, which has been set up for chosen
embroidery. Before beginning to embroider, choose the FIX
function (if available) to baste an outline around the embroidery
area. This will further keep the stretchy fabric from puckering
during the embroidery process.
6. Stitch out design. NOTE: The bucket design is a machine
embroidered appliqué. If chosen, you will need to use temporary
spray adhesive to position and stitch contrasting appliqué fabric (red
Lycra) into place. Once the outline stitch has been stitched, carefully
trim around the shape and proceed with embroidery.
7. Remove adhesive stabilizer from back of design, using a
pin to lift up edges of stabilizer and being careful not to snag
fabric or distort stitches. Cut away excess Solvy™ from front,
and soak embroidered fabric to remove remaining Solvy™ stabilizer. Trace or retrace pattern front onto embroidered fabric.
SWIMSUIT CONSTRUCTION
Image by Gary Harwood
Crotch
Baste
stitch
Lining
WS
Fabric
Figure 1
Figure 2
Fold under
and cover
stitch
Figure 3
RS
Fold under 3/4”
& coverstitch
Figure 4
1. After completing embroidery and carefully cutting out
front of suit, cut a suit back and crotch panel out of fabric.
2. Cut a front, back and crotch panel out of lining fabric.
3. With right sides together and a slight zigzag or stretch
stitch, sew shoulder seams of suit and side seams of suit.
4. Again, with right sides together stitch one long side of
crotch panel to bottom opening of front, and the other long
side of crotch panel to bottom opening of back (fig. 1).
5. Repeat this procedure with the lining pieces.
6. With wrong sides together insert lining into suit, raw
edges even.
7. To keep lining and suit from slipping while finishing edges,
pin around edges and machine baste, one opening at a time.
It is also helpful to lightly spray between layers with KK2000
to temporarily adhere lining and suit together and avoid fabric
slipping (fig. 2).
8. Finishing option (A): A cover stitch on the serger will
provide the most give and make it easer to slip the child in
and out of the suit through the neckline. Simply turn under
neckline edge 1/2 inch, and starting at a shoulder seam, cover
stitch completely around neckline. Pull end threads through to
wrong side and tie off. Do the same for the armhole openings
starting and ending cover stitch at the underarm seam (fig.
3).Turn up edges of leg openings 3/4 inch and again secure
with the cover stitch function beginning and ending at inside
leg seam (fig. 4). Carefully remove basting threads.
3
4”
Jon-Jon
Facing
Pattern
Figure 5
6-1/2”
WS Pocket
5”
Solvy
TM
Figure 6
Jon-Jon
Front
(RS)
3/4”
Figure 7
Facing
4”
Figure 8
9. Finishing option (B). If you don’t
have a cover stitch function, after basting edges to secure, serge around raw
edges with a 3-thread finish or a machine zigzag. Carefully remove basting
threads. Set up sewing machine with
a twin needle and thread to match or
contrast with suit fabric. Turn under
neckline edge 1/2 inch, and starting at
a shoulder seam, double needle stitch
completely around neckline. Backstitch
to secure. Do the same for the armhole
openings starting and ending stitch at
the underarm seam. Turn up edges of
leg openings 3/4 inch and again secure
with the double needle topstitching.
TERRYCLOTH COVER-UP
1. Cut pieces for one Jon-Jon from
terrycloth. Cut a second Jon-Jon from
terrycloth but this time cut all pieces
Figure 9
down only to about 4 inches below edge
of underarm (fig. 5). This second “half ”
Jon-Jon will serve as the suit facing in
place of a complete lining.
2. Machine embroider a rectangle of
terrycloth for a pocket so that pail will
lie approximately 3 inches from top
frayed edge (selvage) on a 6-1/2 inch
long pocket that will be 5 inches wide
(finished) (fig. 6).
3. Place pocket right side down on
piece of Solvy™. Stitch around sides
and bottom edge with a 1/2-inch seam
allowance. Leave frayed selvage for top
of pocket (fig. 7).
4. Turn right side out. This will automatically turn back the pocket edges
(like a pillow).
5. Pin pocket on left front of Jon-Jon
so that it will fall approximately 4 inches
from finished leg edge and 3/4 inch
from side seam line. Topstitch 1/8 inch
from edge of pocket to attach to Jon-Jon
(fig. 8).
6. Stitch together pieces of Jon-Jon
as instructed in Martha’s Favorite Appliqué’s. For facing, stitch shoulder seams
and side seams of “half ” Jon-Jon. Finish
lower edge by serging or zigzag.
7. Place facing right sides together
with Jon-Jon and stitch around top
edge and armhole openings (fig. 9). Clip
curves, corners and underarm seam allowances, flip facing to inside and press.
Turn up leg edges of Jon-Jon 3/4 inch
and hem.
8. Stitch buttonholes on back shoulder
pieces and close with one red button and
one yellow button stitched on front at
shoulder. -SB
About the designer
Amelia Johanson is associate editor of Sew Beautiful. She lives in
Ohio with her husband and three sons.
4
1"
0
1"
Please use this scale to verify
that you are printing at 100%
BABY ELLIS’S SWIMSUIT
FRONT
Match A to A and align
A
5
A
1"
0
1"
Match B to B and align
B
6
FRONT
B
1"
0
1"
7
1"
0
1"
BACK
A
8
A
1"
0
1"
B
9
BACK
Match C to C and align
C
1"
0
1"
BABY BOY'S SWIMSUIT SIZE CHART
Actual pattern measures smaller than body
measurements given, as stretch of fabric is factored.
Size
Chest
Weight
12m
19"
18-21lb
18m
20"
22-25lb
24m
21"
26-29lb
Height
27-28"
29-30"
31-32"
10

A Vintage Swimsuit for Baby Ellis

Transcription

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