April - Peace Corps Panama Friends
Transcription
April - Peace Corps Panama Friends
. . . Hello again to all our friends, we’re glad you came to play. Your friendly Vaina staff lineup is changing. Dave and Rich are joined this issue by two young talents from Minor League Newsletter-Editing. That’s right; Jessica Samples and John Sturm are ready for The Show. If this issue is a little skimpy, it’s because the April La Vaina contains no COS section. Hear that Group 51? No articles, photographs or enemies lists were submitted by any of you. So you are officially invited to send in submissions for a COS Section. Otherwise the July Issue will contain only some poetry that Rich and Dave copied from Johnanna Abbinante’s diary before she came back from the bathroom about an hour ago. That goes double for the rest you. This issue of La Vaina had a whopping twelve pictures submitted, and everyone knows Volunteers are just looking at the pictures. So, we need every thing we can get our hands on. We know you are all having fun out there without us; we just want you to send pictures of what we’re missing. Also, please note that there are Haikus strewn randomly throughout this issue. This is a known bug in the Adobe PageMaker software we use to produce La Vaina. Actually, they were written by the staff at a recent staff retreat. Please try to enjoy them. Warmest regards -Rich, Dave, Jessica and John La Vaina Table of Contents April - June 2005 foto por Tess From the Suits... 4-5....................................................... De la Jefa por Jean Lujan 6......................... ....................From the PTO por Peter Redmond 7.....................................................Curanderas Notes por Lourdes 7..................................De la Chica Mas Segura por Maria Elena 8-9 ..............................................................EH Update por Greg 10-11...................................................Talking Business por Pablo 12..............................Agropeucaria Sostenible Update por Jason 13...............................Environmental Conservation por Francisco 14............................................Cuerpo de Paz en Kirbati por Greta 15-18..........................................BCI Planning Tools por Barbara 19.............................. From the Training Director’s Desk por Raul Next La Vaina deadline - June 22 Announcements, Articles, etc... 19..........................................Peace Corps Blog Info 20..............................................................WID/GAD 22-23........................................................Centerfold 24..............................................More Than You Give 25-26......................................................Zach Attack 26......................................................Brownie Recipe 27......................................................InfoPlaza Listing 28-29...................................................Culture Clash 30..................................................Brian Speaks Out 31-40...........................................Panama in the News 41.....................................................Koller Back Y’all 42....................................Volunteers Speak Out/Quotes 42..............................................A Letter to the Editor 43.........................................HotAllSexy Harvard Man Joe has taken the Hunter S. Thompson suicide pretty badly Submission Policy: All subject matter is welcome. We will not print articles which demean or slander Panama or Panamanians. We also will not print exceptionally funny jokes, unless they are ours. Keep in mind who might read La Vaina --Presidents, chiefs of state, and the like. We will try to correct speling, punc-tuation, and grammars, unless your article is really long. We get tired. The content of the articles will not be touched unless it is deemed to go beyond the boundaries of decency as the CD, PTO and APCDs judge it. We at La Vaina have no natural sense of decency. This newsletter is for the Peace Corps community, so it is what you make of it. Contribute, give suggestions, and SUBMIT! We appreciate your support. Article Guidelines: All articles of various subject matter are welcome. You will make the editors’ job a lot easier if you would please adhere to these guidelines: 1. Please e-mail your articles to [email protected], or submit the articles on disk. Do not handwrite your articles. We do not have the time/motivation necessary to type them. 2. Don’ t try to show off your skills with Word by formatting your article elaborately. Pagemaker doesn’t dig that. 3. Please e-mail digital photos to [email protected], or put photos and other art in the hanging folder in the office. 4. Please do not send submissions, especially pictures, to our personal email accounts. That’s what we have the La Vaina email account for. They max out our mailboxes and then John might miss an opprotunity to Make Big Money While Working From Home. cover photo: Jake McCleland back cover: los Pfeifer La Vaina De la Jefa por Jean Lujan This is my last LaVaina article as CD and I wanted it to foto por Dan H. be inspirational, educational, motivational, etc. I meant to work on this earlier, but I was really busy, and well, now it is too late for the wished-for masterpiece. The editors offered to ghost-write it for me and I was tempted. I think they know what is important to me, what my expectations are for you and for the program. I am hoping you know these things too. If you don’t, then I haven’t done the job I needed to do. After almost 2 ½ years as your CD, you should know where I stand—and trust me to be there! Indulge me while I tell you, one final time, what I believe to be important: briefly, the Peace Corps volunteer as a development resource. Thank you all—volunteers and staff— for your support of me, and for your dedication and commitment to Peace Corps and to your communities. We have made some big changes to the program in the last 2 ½ years— changes for the better, I am convinced. And you hung in there, giving me the benefit of the doubt, when maybe you worried about where I was leading you, unsure whether you could trust me. Let me review the course for you. Alarmed by reports of floundering volunteers and angry agencies, I started this job determined to take a hard look at the program: what were its strengths and weaknesses. Its weaknesses, I discovered, were primarily related to programming. We had no real agency partners— governmental or non-governmental. With some notable exceptions, we were working alone, and we were not working as a team. Among the post’s strengths were many motivated, talented volunteers and some very competent, committed staff, including a PTO who “got” what I wanted to do and made it better every time (Thank you, Peter). Together, we challenged senior staff to figure out what role we should play in Panama’s development. Recognizing the unique value of the volunteer to a community and to a project, we articulated a big vision for the program: “We will be recognized as a development leader and partner of choice committed to eradicating poverty, promoting social justice and fostering cross-cultural understanding.” Everything we do— from project design, site development, training, to budget and personnel decisions—should take us closer to making our vision a reality. Then we “found our focus”—we work “where the circles intersect.” One circle represents Peace Corps’ capacity, including our limitations; the second circle represents host country projects and priorities; and the third circle represents community needs and resources. Site placements are made with this focus as our guide. Working partners—both agency and community—are now required for every placement. And we craft our projects to support community and agency projects. Finally, we identified and stated out loud what our values are: professionalism, teamwork, accountability, trust, transparency, effective communication, and respect for diversity and cultural differences. I measure my own actions against these 4 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” La Vaina April - June 2005 So that’s it. That’s what I want you to remember about my service here—if you remember at all (you can forget about my falling in the creek!). That’s what I am hoping will last. If it does, Peace Corps/Panama will make a significant contribution to Panama’s development, and volunteers will go home with a greater satisfaction for the work they do and a more profound understanding of Panama’s peoples. values and expect each staff member and volunteer to do the same. Each of us is responsible for the kind of organization we are and the kind of workplace we create. The ideals of Peace Corps, maybe the “most inspired initiative ever undertaken by any national government” , are something very special and we have a responsibility to live by them every day. As for me, personally, I have never had a job I loved as much, where I worked with as many extraordinary people, doing work that is so important. It has been an enormous privilege to work with you—staff and volunteers. You inspire me to do more and to be better at what I do and who I am. It has been a blessing to work in Panama—a country that has welcomed us so warmly. I arrived in country as a ‘believer’ in Peace Corps. I am pleased to report that I leave more hopeful for the world and the potential for Peace Corps to make it a better place. Un fuerte abrazo a todos, mucha suerte y mil gracias. Is the job done? Hardly. We still have some floundering volunteers but fewer. Partners don’t always come through. Our training for those volunteers working with the indigenous needs work. The list is never-ending. It’s a journey, a process. The good news is that I believe Peace Corps/Panama has found its way. Peace Corps/Panama Vision We will be recognized as a development leader and partner of choice commited to eradicating poverty, promoting social justice and fostering cross-cultural understanding. Mission We work in partnership with others to promote sustainable solutions in the areas of health, sanitation, agriculture, environment and small business as we promote the dignity of people and their capacity to improve their own lives. Values Professionalism ♦Teamwork ♦Trust Accountability ♦Transparency ♦Diversity Effective Communication ♦Respect for Cultural Differences [email protected] 5 La Vaina From the PTO por Peter Redmond “The worth of a thing is best known by the want of it.” – Old Scottish saying cairn, noun: A mound of stones piled up as a memorial or to mark a boundary or path. Sitting in the center of my office meeting table is a small pile of rocks – a cairn. To those of you who have wondered aloud about my strange choice of décor, I have shared with you my love of hiking in the mountains above tree line in the stomping grounds of my youth — the Adirondacks of New York, the Green Mountains of Vermont and the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In those beautiful environs, cairns, some as tall as me and others just a few stones high, mark the path set by those who came before. The word cairn comes from Scottish Gaelic. Cairns were used extensively in Scotland to keep sojourners out of danger as they foto por Emily traversed the treacherous trails of the Highlands. Cairns offered the traveler a reference point on the treeless land that was often covered with foggy mist. Large cairns were also used to memorialize a person or event and were integral to the pre-Christian, earth-centered religions of the region. foto por Christel 6 My office cairn is both memorial and path mark – a memorial to those who came before us in Peace Corps and a reminder of the path we have set for Peace Corps/ Panama. It is fitting that both Jean Lujan and cairns are of Scottish descent, for Jean is responsible for marking the path of Peace Corps/Panama these past two and a half years. Now you might be thinking that likening Jean’s accomplishments to a pile of stones may not seem to be the most flattering analogy, but it is true nonetheless. Cairns are not the work of one single stonemason, but the result of the hands of many. On an unmarked trail, lots of hands are needed to carry and set the many stones to mark the way. Jean has led the way, creating and motivating the team of both staff and volunteers who have carried the stones to build our cairns — our vision, our mission and our values will be the most enduring of Jean’s cairns. Working with Jean these past two and one-half years has been one of the most exhilarating and rewarding experiences in my twenty years of professional life. As with every Peace Corps experience, I have learned and gained so much more than I could ever give. I’ve learned about how to be a better leader; I have admired her ability to speak honestly to both staff and volunteers about tough issues; I have watched her take to heart and respond to the evaluations and feedback from Volunteer surveys; I have seen her challenge both staff and volunteers to do better; and I have seen the power of principle-centered leadership – a leadership steeped in the belief that the capability of a group is more than the sum of the individuals that make up the group. I’ve also seen her choke up as she spoke about how the work we do today is even more important than when Peace Corps began 44 years ago. But more than anything, I will remember the laughing we did – for I have never laughed as hard, or as much in any other job. This is a reflection of the joy and enthusiasm that Jean brings to her work and to the world – and for this she will be missed by all of us in Peace Corps/Panama. And to Volunteers and staff alike, I hope you will mind the cairns that we have built together and challenge yourself to build new ones as we blaze new paths for others yet to come. “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Office News Airport Exit Tax Exemption: Peace Corps has solved the problem with the Ministry of Exterior Relations and Airport Authorities and has reinstated Peace Corps’ exemption from the $20 Airport Exit Tax. If you plan on traveling by air out of Panama, you will need to carry your purple ID (carnet) AND carry a copy of a Ministry of Exterior Relations letter that you can get from AO Greta Mendez. Office Move Update: Plans are moving forward to move the office later in the year. We hope to start renovations to the office space in Ciudad del Saber in April 2005. More information to come as renovations move forward and a move date becomes imminent. ‘The newest trainees will have fun safety sessions with different tools ’ -Maria Elena Ortiz Curandera’s Corner por Lourdes PANAMA AS REGIONAL MEDEVAC POST We would like to share the good news with all our Peace Corps Panama Volunteers. As of March 2005, Panama has been chosen as a Regional Medevac Post for the Inter-American region. Volunteers from Central and South America as well as the Caribbean will be sent to Panama for medical attention or special exams that are not easily or reliably performed in the countries where they are serving. This is very important for Peace Corps/Panama, since it is a recognition of the excellence of our post and of the high quality of Panamanian medical services and technologies. We are in the process of developing guidelines and policies for this program, relying in large measure on advice from our colleagues in Thailand and South Africa, the Regional Medevac Centers for EMA and the Africa regions. We will keep you posted on developments. De La Chica Mas Segura por Maria Elena If you come to Panama City be aware of pick-pocketers. There are a lot of cases of carteristas (pick pocketers in English) who are so skilled that they unzip your purse and take out your wallet without you even noticing. Do not go alone to Avenida Central or Calidonia. Leave your big purses and jewelry at home. Keep your money in a safe place (pocket inside your pants or your purse in front). If you are coming to the PC office, please do not keep any thing of value in the Volunteer lounge, some volunteers’ work so hard they forget what belongs to them at the end of the day. If you need to store any items for a short period of time in the office, please talk to a Peace Corps staff member about securing them. I would also like to take this opportunity to welcome the new people that will be working as Safety Coordinators and Regional Leaders. They are very important part of our Peace Corps team. Feel free to contact them in case of an emergency or any issue related to your area. [email protected] 7 La Vaina Environmental Health por Greg Branch “I know of no more encouraging fact than the unquestionable ability of man to evaluate his life by a conscious endeavor”. -Thoreau Howdy ho, y’all smell like flowers! Its La Vaina time again and I’m sending my saludos out to all of you to wherever you are, be it the latrine, the bus, the Volunteer lounge, or swaying in your hammock. My new favorite thing to do is to ask strangers the following question: If you had a piece of advice to tell a young man like me, what would you say? I have found that people love the opportunity and don’t often have the chance to share their thoughts so directly. For some reason this works better with Americans than it does with Panamanians. Airports are my favorite place to ask, as you both know that you will probably never see each other again. Some of the advice From Lalo and Lizzy up the Cricamola in I have been given Bocas, to Mike and Dan off the islands of is, ‘never work in Kuna Landia, to Katherine and Murry on a job you don’t the in Panama’s Wild Wild East to Kevin like’; ‘Time is the Stevens and his four hour hike through the EH has spirit yes we do! most precious hills of Veraguas (which I drove through in resource you have’; ‘Love as many women as you less than one hour). The remaining two who are extending can’; ‘Have a lot of children, whether you can afford are Laura Squire as Ngobe-Bogle Comarca Coordinator, them or not’; ‘Enjoy the simple things’, and “Don’t and Dost who is to fill those big shoes that Kevin Bingley waste time worrying’. In general, women tend to give a is leaving behind. whole lot more advice than men. One woman said, ‘Call your mother often’. Peace Corps is funny that way, folks are always acomin’ and agoin’. Life is that way. As people; we are born into Most satisfying is the look in their eye as I am shaking a roulette wheel of families, poop in our diapers, crawl their hand goodbye. As if suddenly they care what I around, figure things out just in time to get old, feeble, might to do with their advice. People are mirrors of each crawl around and poop in diapers again. History is made, other and no matter what roulette family you are born progress noted, and that’s that. The next rounds of babies into we are equals inside. I believe the quote at the are already coming in to hear about it and then make beginning of the article. their own tracks. Peace Corps is a mini life for all of Evaluate your life often. Make the necessary changes to us. Meet your new host family, make it feel right, feel good. Life is too short to become learn to express yourself and adapt, complacent. I am convinced that attitude is the number then exit on your own terms, having one controlling force that dictates how your life will evolve shared your thoughts and and, of course, how you evaluate what goes on around perspective with those you. you were living with, and hopefully doing So, how to sum up these philosophical ramblings? From some good along the experience as a Peace Corps Volunteer only 3 and half way. years ago, to the congressional delegation last week, it is foto por Manuela So much has happened since the January issue, but then again, there is always a lot happening. First of all, sombreros off to the good people of Group 50 who have just COSed. 8 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina clear to me that being a Peace Corps Volunteer is a dream job. I am amazed at how many people are envious/ intrigued/interested in the kind of life a PCV lives. Remember that. Aprovechar that. You have two years. Then that’s it. On to the next thing. You most likely will never do something quite like this again. In everything you do. Those are my aspirations for you. improve their quality of life. Kevin is a living example of 1+1 = 4, having worked and taught in every corner of Panama. Bueno, my traditional ramblings have come to an end. Do what you have to do to make this the most rewarding, challenging, real experience that you have had to date. So without further pupu…. Group 56 arrives in August! As many of you have heard by now, Kevin is no longer going to be the tech trainer for the next EH group. There was ‘lil’ Kev Stevens has a big chakra a conflict in time and Kevin was only available for the first 7 weeks of training. What’s the plan? It is going to be tough to replace the kind of experience that Kevin was able to offer. From the feedback/evaluations that we have received from y’all, its clear that the field trips and sessions involving currently serving PCVs were the highlights of training. The Tech... As I mentioned before, some of group 50 have left and believe it or not, most of group of 47 are actually leaving come May 5th. I am having a hard time trying to attempt to explain the history of this group. For EH, the five that are still here are part of the first seven that came to Panama in January 2002. Their contributions to EH and Panama have been huge! John Spalding, Mike Gaffney, and Ian Jarvis successfully launched the composting latrine design in Bocas. From radio shows to hosting a seminar for agencies, to seeing an almost three year project to the end, you guys did a tremendous job. Because of your work, we are going to have a National Latrine Seminar foto por Katie C for Agencies in Panama City April 28th. Ryan Gross, the whitest, funniest, Chiriqui Ngobe to lay aqueduct pipe and build pit latrines this side of the Cordillera. He deserves a lot of credit for the grand success of the three aqueduct management seminars last year. foto por Gil Kevin Bingley, where to begin? One of hardest w o r k i n g Ingenieros I have had the pleasure to work with. A man who is dedicated to developing technology so Panamanians We will continue to do the PCV visit during the third week and the composting latrine tech week. I hope to do maybe one or two more field trips an aqueduct work field trip and a health promotion/ lorena stove trip. Please let me know if you might be able to host any of these four sitebased trainings. As for the Santa Rita training, I will be contacting you individually, to ask if you can come in to train various sessions. Dost will be taking over Kevin’s position in May. As Kevin’s talents were in aqueducts and tech designs, Dost is good at coordinating, organizing, and planning. She will be in Panama City headquarters, planning the upcoming health seminars y mucho mas. Contact Dost at [email protected] regarding the health seminars or any other EH coordination issues. Two of the three seminars have dates, here they are: May 24 -27 Veraguas/Chiriqui June 6-10th No Kribo/Bocas del Toro Darien/Panama Este: TBA Well, that is enough of this long-winded article. Happy trails to all of you, be it from Panama, or in Panama. [email protected] 9 La Vaina The CED File por Pablo Garron Here we go again. This morning during the Staff meeting, we realized that the La Vaina article was due today, of course with muchas ganas y con echa pa’ delante so without further delay, here is my part. I want to start by saying, great job at AVC. With your help we have the new, fully tested, error free (so far) quarterly report available at our PCPCED page. Which, by the way, has been pretty crowded lately. Use the new QR to report your work of this past quarter. The new DVD compatible Virtual QR, that Mark was talking about during AVC is taking more time than we thought, so please use the old one until further notice. My site visits finished with a great trip up to Bocas del I foto por Johanna Toro. had the chance to travel with an IT specialist who works for PC HQ i n Washington and it was his first time visiting a site, so I took him to Norteño, to meet Ann Sawner. The visit was great and the food was excellent. Thanks Ann! A CED PCV can’t leave without trying the Bocas-Tuna Surprise. Like you already know, Lockheed Martin computers are confirmed, Peace Corps Panama accepted the donation and according to PC HQ they are sending the computers pretty soon. Lockheed Martin confirmed the number of computers is 90, so the good news is that all the communities will have their requested numbers fulfilled. I sent an email asking for a time line but I haven’t received any news yet. As soon the computers arrive you will be hearing from me, I don’t have to much space in my office for that equipment so please start thinking with the Computer Committees how the logistics of the transportation is going to work. Life was beautiful, foto por Johanna and then I got invited to participate in the Y o u t h Development and Employment Workshop to be held in the ugly, not fun, St. Lucia. So I will be traveling there from the 22nd to the 28th of May. The participants (APCDs) will share their experiences and results on working with youth. On my return I will share with you the results of the conference. Apparently, it is not going to be the only trip, I will also going to participate of the OST in Washington from June 6th to July 2nd, this is a training time for new APCDs, CDs, AOs, PTOs, at headquarters. I hope my family will still remember me after that. Changing the subject, as you already know, will have a series of workshops in different places of the country, as plan in the sustainable artisan project; some of you will receive and invitation to participate on those training sessions as trainers with the help and participation of other HCAs. The places of the workshops will be: Cilico Creek, Bocas del Toro; Penonome, Cocle; Santa Fe, Darien and San Ingacio de Tupile in Kuna Yala. The exact dates will be sent later this week, but it will be from the 26 of April to the end of May. Those interested in participating as trainers in the following subjects, send me an email. foto por pablo 10 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Resumen Ejecutivo PRODUCCION Y VENTA SOSTENIBLE DE ARTESANIAS Meta: Artesanos Panameños se recibirán entrenamiento, apoyo y motivación para participar efectivamente cada año en la Feria Nacional de Artesanía. Objetivos: 1.Hasta el fin de Julio, los artesanos seleccionados, serán capacitados para planificar estratégicamente su participación en la Feria Nacional. 2.Al inicio de la Feria Nacional, un stand apropiadamente construido estará disponible dentro de las instalaciones para los artesanos participantes del proyecto. 3.Al final de la Feria Nacional un Fondo Rotativo existirá para la participación de los artesanos en la próxima edición. Resultados: 1. Aumento de la auto confianza de los artesanos en sus productos gracias a la mejor venta de sus productos en relación al año anterior. 2.Mejoramiento de la calidad de los productos debido a la capacitación y al tiempo de planificación. 3.Permitir una participación genuina de los artesanos de áreas rurales a la feria más importante del país. 4.Educar a los visitantes mostrando la forma tradicional de crear artesanía, de esa forma, fortalecer la cultura y la percepción sobre el valor del producto comprado. 5.Disminuir el impacto ambiental en la producción de artesanía. Que capacidades serán desarrolladas: Los artesanos que participen de este proyecto, podrán realizar lo siguiente: 1.Preparación y desarrollo de presupuestos. 2.Planificación antes, durante y después de una Feria. 3.Desarrollo de Productos considerando preferencias del consumidor. 4.Atención al cliente para incrementar sus ventas. 5.Cortar de manera saludable la palma para la elaboración de la artesanía. Los artesanos que participen de este proyecto cambiaran sus actitudes respecto a: 1. Trabajar dentro de una organización. 2.Beneficios de la planificación para evitar el fracaso. Su rol en la preservación de la cultura y su medio ambiente. [email protected] 11 La Vaina SAS Update Por Jason Cochrane I am sitting at my computer trying to think of something fun and witty to write as La Vaina deadline looms over my head. This is the first deadline that I am rushing to make since I took this job, if that is a testament to how busy things have been recently. Trying to reflect a bit I am reminded of a couple of images and events from the last couple of weeks. The first one was that of a homeless woman washing her clothes from a spigot while a Palm Sunday procession walks by. The symbolism is not lost on me. The process is commemorating the entrance of one of the world’s first advocate for the poor into Jerusalem. The symbolism is that while we pray and sing and bless the palms, we walk by someone that this prophet went to the grave to help. Yet we walk by as if she does not exist. Have we progressed? Have we learned the lesson? Keep up the great work. As always, I am proud to be working with you all. My travel schedule: April: 3-11: Duty officer. I will be in the office that week. April 19-20: COS Conference in El Valle. April 20-21: RL training in El Valle. April 25-28: Farm planning seminar in Divisa. I also plan on visiting Bryan, Nicole and Joe for one year visits this month. May: I will be visiting Chad, Shane, Scott and Paul this month. Also, trainees arrive the 19 th. June: I will be visiting Ben, Clairissa, Sara, Julia and Erica as well as being involved in training. Also, Coffee seminar in the end of June (we will keep you posted as to the details). Image number two: At the ambassador’s house attending Seed Project International. Remember: as the garden a reception in honor of a congressional delegation visiting projects are being completed, please send me a one page Panama. At numerous times, separate congresspersons summary of what you planted, with whom, what worked, what didn’t and how many persons sought out and spoke with our benefited along with photos. volunteers. They were inspired and very proud of the Farewell to Erick, Christina, Kim work you are doing and how and Dan M. Thank you for all your well you represent our hard work and dedication and we country. It gave us a rare wish you well in your next opportunity to take a step back from the craziness of the adventures. work we do to reflect upon Now that we have work groups its importance and that there formed and you have sent me your are numerous people who are lists and what you are proposing to proud and maybe a bit jealous las tres fotos por Sturm of what we do. do, we are on to the next step: Implementation. Group presidents, try to set up a meeting with me over the next three months How are these two images connected? Here comes the segue. Sometimes it feels like the goals we have - so we can discuss this. We can do this by phone or in eradicate poverty, make the world a better place to live in, person at your convenience and when my calendar etc. - seem so big, so daunting that it always leaves one permits. saying: “But there is so much left to do!” Yet we are doing the work. We are doing the best we can to make a Great job everyone at the AVC. We had a great difference. That is what impresses the visiting policy conference and it was fun to get caught up with everyone. makers. We answer the call: “If not me, then who? If We are doing great things that we all should be proud of. not now than when?” We may never get all the homeless off the street, or feed the hungry or save all the rainforests, Send me your calendars. Let me know when you are out of site for more than two nights and call the out of site but at least we are trying, where others are ignoring. box when away. Keep up the great work! 12 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Environmental Conservation Por Francisco Santamaria Hello Friends, first, I want to extend a warm greeting to you all. At the same time, I hope that all of you are well and happy in your communities. Secondly, thank you so much for your valuable participation in the past Sector Conference. Congratulations to the volunteers who are extending their service in Panama. They are Monica Bosquez and Lauren Koller with Fundacion Tierra Nueva (Foundation New Earth) in Darien and Jeremy Terhune with Instituto Nacional de Agricultural (INA) in Divisa. Also to Katherine Dennis who has extended in her site until June. I spent the last two weeks (03/07 – 19/05) doing the second official visit of group 52 (Anna, Dana, Victoria, Lauren, Mary and Kimberly) and I want to say to you: Thanks!. the communities will be located in protected areas and Thanks for the high level of commitment to your buffer zones with a strong focus in the Panama Canal communities and the people with whom you are working. Watershed (50%). The rest are repeat sites. Next May and June will be the second official visit to Environmental Calendar (From ANAM) group 53. I’ll let you know when the dates are set. Abril 7 Día Mundial de la Salud A new group of 18 volunteers will be arriving promptly Abril 22 Día Mundial del Agua and the site development process is underway. As always, Abril 28 Día Mundial contra el Ruido Mayo 15 Día Internacional de la Familia Segunda semana Semana Internacional de las Aves Migratorias Tercer Viernes Día Mundial del Árbol Mayo28 Día Internacional de acción por la salud de la Mujer Mayo 31 Día Mundial sin Tabaco Junio 5 Día Mundial del Medio Ambiente Junio 8 Día del Océano Segunda semana Semana Ecológica Tercera semana Semana de la Familia Junio 17 Día de la lucha contra la Desertificación y la Sequía Junio 26 Día Internacional de la Preservación de los Bosques Tropicales Julio 1 Aniversario de ANAM Julio 11 Día Mundial de la Población (Editors’ Note: Remember that International Eat An Endangered Species Week is always the last week of June.) [email protected] 13 La Vaina Cuerpo de Paz en Kirbati Por Greta Méndez MAURI es la palabra usada en Kiribati para decir HOLA así que Mauri para todos ustedes que trabajan a diario en mi querida patria: Panamá. Deseo compartir con ustedes una hermosa experiencia que gracias a mi trabajo en Cuerpo de Paz pude realizar. El año pasado estuve en Kiribati trabajando en la oficina de Cuerpo de Paz como Administradora por seis semanas ya que la esposa del Administrador de ese Post iba a tener su primer bebé y yo llegue justo a tiempo ya que al día siguiente de mi llegada nació el bebé!! Toma 3 días llegar a ese lugar. La isla principal se llama Tarawa. Es allí donde esta la oficina de Cuerpo de Paz, el aeropuerto y el único banco que existe. También hay solo un hotel que se llama Ottin tai (Sun rise). Hay sólo un cine en un lugar llamado Betio. Y eso si le quieres llamar cine. Betio es un lugar histórico ya que fue allí donde se dio parte de la segunda guerra mundial. Kiribati es un Atolón ( ATOLL) de corales y son varias islas que están en el Pacífico hacia el área donde esta Hawaii. Kiribati está a 3 horas hacia el norte de FIJI. Es realmente un lugar muy hermoso y sus playas son espectaculares. Pero lo más hermoso de ese lugar es la alegría de su gente. En este lugar también hay problemas de agua. El agua se obtiene de la lluvia. Las casas tienen tanque de 6 mil litros para recoger el agua de lluvia. Para tomar debes comprar agua embotellada que viene de Fiji. La gente de allá son color trigueño y de cabellos y ojos negros. Sus cabellos son largos y hermosos. Los hombres suelen tener tatuajes en su cuerpo. La cultura es muy conservadora. Las mujeres utilizan una falda que cubre sus piernas y se llama LAVA LAVA. Y usan una clase de top que se llama Sebuta. Los voluntarios allá han ganado mucha paciencia. Ellos siempre dicen que las cosas allá son más lentas que en el resto del mundo y siempre hablan del Kiribati Time. Si pides un reembolso de caja puede ser que este en esa oficina por casi 3 meses. Pero eso no es nada. Un grupo de nuevos trainees se acaba de juramentar el 26 de agosto y para Septiembre 16 todavía muchos de ellos no habían llegado a sus islas. El transporte aéreo es muy lento y puede ser que tengas programado salir en un vuelo pero el avión aún no ha llegado para recogerte. Así es que mejor es llenarse de paciencia y esperar. El sistema de mail es un gran problema allá. Y la comida , ni hablar. Solo hay un barco que viene de Australia con algunas frutas y productos enlatados. La comida principal es arroz (steamed rice with fish) con pescado. El pescado que comen es tuna y Morikoi. Morikoi es un pescado de carne blanca con menos grasa que la tuna. Los restaurantes que hay son todos chinos. Asi que no hay McDonalds, Kentucky, TGIF, No hay nada. 14 El aeropuerto internacional es sumamente arcaico. Las puertas son de madera y definitivamente no hay aire acondicionado. Hay algunos voluntarios en la isla de Tarawa que es la más grande. La mayoría de los voluntarios están en las islas. Y allí si que no hay nada. En estas islas cada voluntario tiene un teléfono satelital. Para ir al dentista tienes que tomar el avión a Fiji. Para ciertas emergencias medicas puede que te envien a Australia. Y cuando estas muy mal te mandan de MEDEVAC a Washington. Para llegar a Washington tienes que tomar el avión de Kiribati a Fiji que toma 3 horas. Luego el de Fiji a Los Angeles que toma 10 horas de viaje. Y luego de Los Angeles a DC que son alrededor de 5 horas. Pero entonces qué hace que los voluntarios se queden allí? Como les dije la gente que siempre esta alegre, con una sonrisa, que nunca te dirán algo que te haga sentir mal, y cantan y bailan divino. Realmente este lugar es sumamente duro para ser voluntario de Cuerpo de Paz . No es para todo el mundo. Pero ya el post tiene 30 años y solamente tiene alrededor de 40 voluntarios con sólo dos programas: Educación y Salud. Tengo algunas fotos y aquellos que deseen saber un poco más pueden venir a mi oficina y allí puedo contarles más de mi experiencia en Kiribati. Asi que me despido con un TIABO (see you!). “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina 8 Step Behavior Change Intervention Planning Tool por Barbara How is it that sales of Frito-Lay’s Wow! Brand potato chips continue to rise even though each bag features the warning “May cause anal leakage” printed on its back? Development workers, however, struggle to get mothers to adopt good hygiene methods, or to convince youth to adopt healthy sexual behaviors that will improve their children’s health. Community development professionals can learn a lot from marketing firms about promoting basic changes in behavior. At the core of most development in our communities is the challenge of helping key populations modify their behaviors to adopt practices that improve their health, agricultural and conservation practices as well as their economic wellbeing. Behavior Change Intervention (BCI) is a key strategy that uses behavioral, communication, and social marketing theory and research to provide a systematic framework for efforts to influence individual behaviors and the social contexts in which they occur. Key elements of BCI include identifying and segmenting target audiences, involving those audiences in developing materials and key messages, and using multiple communication channels to transfer those messages. The goal is to bring about a “Tipping Point” where the behavior change that your group is promoting (condoms, water treatment, hygiene, care of environment, use of IT labs, etc) becomes a “social epidemic” that spreads quickly to a larger population. The tipping point of social change is the moment of critical mass or boiling point where the people make the socially beneficial behavior the norm. This change usually comes about because of the influence of a few select messengers that, through their contagiousness, convince early adapters, and then reach the tipping point of affecting many others’ behaviors. The key is to find the few key messengers, a sticky message, and ways to help people put into practice their new knowledge/behavior. These techniques work not only to sell Gap blue jeans, but also to “sell” positive social behaviors. The following tool is meant to help Volunteers and their project partners develop Behavior Change Intervention strategies for their organizations and communities. Some of the key strategies in this article are based on the book The Tipping Point by Malcolm Gladwell. Please be sure to share your efforts with PC-Panama to let us know about your strategies and results. Step 1: Defining What the Current Normative Behaviors Are The starting point for good Behavior Change Intervention is identifying the current beliefs and behaviors related to the topic around which you want to provoke change. This requires doing individual interviews and focus groups to ask about their current behaviors and what might lead them to change those behaviors. Below is an example of a chart that can be used to record initial behaviors. [email protected] 15 La Vaina Step 2: Identifying the Key Actors Starting social epidemics requires concentrating resources on a few key areas and persons. With an epidemic, a tiny majority of the people do much of the work of spreading the word to other key actors through their particular skills that get the attention of the rest of us. Volunteers resources ought to be concentrated on three types of community actors: Connectors, Salesmen, and Early Adapters. The important step in a BCI campaign is to identify these three groups of actors and their key interests. Once these actors are convinced, it is much easier to reach the tipping point through your messages. Connectors are the people that bring the community together through their ability to influence others. They are comfortable with having acquaintances in many different circles and stay in touch with them. They may be a political figure such as the town mayor, or they may draw their connections from their job such as the “tienda” owner. For example, Doña Josefina, the president of Padres de la Familia that lived in the center of a small village, was selected to build the first latrine in the town. As a result many others asked how they could sign up to build their own through the Volunteers project. Thus the Connector helped build meaningful interest and commitment. Salesmen have the skills to persuade us when we are unconvinced of what we are seeing/hearing. Their energy, enthusiasm, verbal and nonverbal clues are all key for a “social” salesman to persuade from the outside in an external gesture that can affect an internal decision. While not the head of his youth club, Ramon was targeted by a Volunteer to talk about the importance of abstinence, fidelity, and condom use, because of his energy and “cool” appeal to other youth. Early Adapters are people who most closely take their cues from connectors and salesmen and are more easily influenced. They may be those who show up consistently to meetings of the community group, or are present at a number of other community activities. In identifying the key actors, the following chart is helpful: Step 3: Developing your Sticky Message Each target group must have a key message that directly links to the interests/benefits perceived by that specific group. Components of a sticky message include that it: ‘Mucho trabajo - Responds to listeners’ most pressing needs, concerns or aspirations Is easy to remember Is easy to implement Is fun Satifacción total Gracias Dios’ Por Erubey Calvo Messages must be tested, tinkered with, and retested until you find that your target test groups are truly able to retain the message and seem willing to act on them. 16 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Name of campaign: “Earning money by improving our accounting.” Step 4: Disseminating the Message through Active Learning Methods Just as important as the message, is the means by which it is disseminated. Too often we try and use traditional formal means for conveying our messages such as through “charla/discussions” which often have very low rates of learning retention. It is important to develop innovative forms of promoting education and planning through hands-on action and inter-active presentations. This could include: discussing the importance of nutrition with mothers while building an organic vegetable garden or rabbit cages; or teaching about the environment during a reforestation project; or having youth talk about making healthy decisions in small groups as they develop role plays to present to their communities. Also, consider other activities to help overcome initial barriers to these behaviors such as: improving access, formation of support groups, etc. Examples: Step 5: Leveraging your Context Sometimes linking your message and messengers to current changes in the community’s context allows for much more “stickiness” and adaptability by others to the BCI messages. Social epidemics are sensitive to the conditions and circumstances of the times and places in which they occur. For example, the closing of the local Banco Nacional creates an atmosphere for a women’s group to discuss more energetically the possibility of them creating their own community bank to protect and grow their savings and to access needed loans. Or a drought in the Azuero may allow a group of farmers to be more open to forming a coop to pool resources for a new irrigation or water system. [email protected] 17 La Vaina Step 6: Creating Change through Reflection Internal and group reflection is a core component of behavior change because it allows information to be converted from simple data in the mind, to a change of attitude, and eventually to an impulse for changing one’s behavior. To be effective, reflection should be facilitated through means such as: organized group discussions before, during, and/ or after a project activity or training; having participants write down lessons learned; presenting socio-dramas based on reflections; poems; etc. Step 7: Maintaining Motivation Two of the hardest parts of development are building the motivation for participants to take the initial step to become involved with a community activity and then maintaining their participation or their desired behavior. Various forms of maintaining motivation might include: individual/group progress charts that are then linked to incentive recognition awards; participant certificates or ribbons (you know they love certificates!); showing a t-shirt that participants who are regularly involved receive after a certain period; visits by public or other leaders; presentations by the participants to other potential participants; parties, picnics, or outings; recognition in the local media or other means. Step 8: Measuring Impact and Change of Knowledge, Attitude, and Behavior Especially at the start and end of your Intervention, it is important to measure progress toward your key indicators of change through individual interviews and focus groups. It is also important to disseminate these findings and celebrate progress through community or group meetings. Remember what brings about social change epidemics is the hard work of a few key people, with a contagious message and sense of hope. With the right effort applied in the right place you can create the tipping point of change in your community’s development. Recommendations for Implementation: 1. Create your own worksheet for planning. Copy the headings from the previous charts found in each of the 8 steps. 2. In collaboration with your counterpart and other community members, begin to fill out the charts. You can ask them one question at a time over several days/weeks/months during informal conversations, so as not to overwhelm them. 3. Give the Behavior Change Intervention a try and let us know how it goes. 18 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 From the Training Director’s Desk Peace Corps Blog Helps Volunteers Share Stories Por Raul iNewswire 2005-03-28 - When President John F. Kennedy established the Peace Corps in 1961, he created three simple goals for the organization. The third goal was ( and still is ) to “Help promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of all Americans.” Training Calendar April 11-15 – Group #54 PDM – CEDESO 19-21 – Group #51 COS conference – Hotel Campestre, El Valle, Coclé 21-22 – Regional Leader Training – Hotel Campestre, El Valle, Coclé 26-27 – Ngäbe Language Training – Hotel Toledo, David, Chiriquí May 19-July 28 Group #55 PST – CEC & SAS August 2-4 – Group #52 COS conference – Place to be announced August 11-October 20 Group #56 PST – EH & CED Ben has crabs, por Clarissa La Vaina In February 2005, Third Goal was created out of a need to provide Peace Corps volunteers a free, easy, and independent way to share their stories with the rest of the world. ”Third Goal helps others understand the joys and difficulties Peace Corps volunteers experience in cultures very different than our own,” says Jason Pearce, Third Goal’s founder. “By offering volunteers an independent community and anonymity, they may more freely and accurately help everyone understand distant cultures.” By providing a consolidated venue for all Peace Corps volunteers, the public receives a concentrated resource of first-person experiences from worlds very different than their own. Third Goal offers volunteers a free and anonymous place to log their experiences for others to read in real time. More so, their real-life stories will help shape Americans’ understanding of other peoples. Pearce was kicked out of the Peace Corps for blogging about his experiences as a Peace Corps trainee while serving in Guyana in 2002. Third Goal (www.thirdgoal.com) Jason Pearce – Third Goal Founder ( 317 ) 809-5256 cell [email protected] [email protected] 19 La Vaina WID/GAD Update Por Katie Skaar This month I’ve got one word for you: purgatory. That is where your WID/GAD directiva has been put after being refused funding for the adult conference that has gone on for years. I won’t discuss what happened to the money, just know that it never materialized and therefore neither can the Adult Conference. We are putting our efforts into the Children’s Conference that (fingers-crossed) should be held during vacation in August. - The best devices used to demonstrate how to put on a condom have been bananas, yucca, and WID/GAD President John Nangle. Other suggestions are welcome, be creative. - When inviting people to give charlas at your site ALWAYS: write a formal invitation, call to confirm, and deliver a thank you letter. Also backrubs and gift ‘Last year budget squeeze baskets have been making training struggle but appreciated. survived stronger now.’ Currently, we are looking for funding through a Partnership Grant in which we indirectly ask for money from family and friends. The Partnership Grant has been set up so volunteers can get donations from family and friends in the United States (or elsewhere for that matter) but not receive them directly, if volunteers could receive them directly, well, the directiva could be vacationing in Belize, and if sex came up it wouldn’t be in the educational sense. We also learned (or -Raul Ramirez relearned), The Chain of AIDS game that Dan Hopkins invented to explain the ‘chain’ of AIDS to emphasize the fact that you can also get AIDS without having sex (its just less fun that way). But seriously folks, you can look on the www.peacecorps.org website in probably about a month and see our plea for money, and then when all those friends and family members ask what they can do for you, you can tell them something besides ‘Send beer’. On a good note, our last meeting at AVC was pretty groovy, so those who decided to go swimming, salsa dancing, or whatever else, well - you missed out. Volunteers Johanna Abbinante, Kersten Appler, and Daniel Hopkins talk about their experiences discussing AIDS, health, gender and other WID/ GAD related topics in their community. Here are the tops of the tips they shared: - Beware of giving TOO much information; instead try using a few charlas in a sort of continuum… with more info to be done in successive presentations. - Bring food and chicha (then shame and ridicule anyone who drinks seconds). - Keep it real, don’t lie to yourself. 20 foto por Norma Here’s how to play: Take some pieces of paper and label them 0, 2, 3, 4 or M for monogamous. If your paper is the number 3 you have to get three people to sign it (put little rayas on them to show where to sign). The people with the M only need to find one other person (indicated by the single ________ in the papel). To symbolize the transmission of AIDS, you add a red dot to just a few of the papelitos, as well to one of the M’s. These signify people with AIDS. To make it more dramatic have the people with the red dot stand up in the front of the room, have them call out whose signatures are on their papers. Then have them line up behind the first person. You will see eventually there is quite a chain… Then announce that they all contracted AIDS. Oh, you thought that it couldn’t get more interesting? Because you added a C (signifies condom) on one of the numbered papers you can show that because this one person used a condom, all the others were saved. If you have any questions about how these charlas were delivered in the volunteers’ community you can email anyone in the directiva or [email protected]. “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Nuevas de Panama Verde por Lauren Fitzgerald Buenos días a todos y todas. Como la enlace entre Cuerpo de Paz y Panamá Verde, mi responsabilidad es fortalecer la comunicación entre las dos organizaciones. Por eso he decidido iniciar una columna aquí en La Vaina, en español no para ser pifiosa pero para compartir lo que escribo con Panamá Verde e incluir las ideas de ellos también. foto por Norma En la sesión con Panamá Verde durante la conferencia de Conservación Ambiental, Ennio Arcia compartió con nosotros muchas ideas para mantener los grupos y solucionar los problemas que a veces tenemos. Una de las ideas que merece mas atención es la importancia de buscar a alguien en la comunidad que pueda prepararse para guiar el grupo cuando tu, el voluntario, te vayas. Esta persona debe ser alguien que los jóvenes y los demás adultos respeten, y alguien que esté dispuesta a dar su tiempo durante las reuniones, actividades, y eventos nacionales y regionales, o sea, alguien que entienda el compromiso necesitado. Sería bueno empezar a involucrar a esta persona desde ya, invitándola a todas sus actividades, incluso a los eventos nacionales, para que conozca el staff de Panamá Verde y su forma de trabajar, y también para que esta persona comunique al resto de la comunidad que el grupo es serio, y los padres pueden dejar que sus hijos participen con confianza. Otra cosa: para aclarar un poco de confusión que algunos voluntarios han expresado, hablé con Panamá Verde sobre el asunto del transporte a los eventos nacionales. Para el Encuentro Nacional en Abril y los Seminarios de Liderazgo en las vacaciones de medio año, donde asisten menos jóvenes, Panamá Verde trabaja para agrupar y coordinar los grupos de cada región, buscando la opción mas económico con menos buses y menos gastos. Para los campamentos de verano, cada grupo debe recoger fondos para lograr la meta de pagar su pasaje, pero Panamá Verde está dispuesto a ayudar a aquellos grupos que vengan de muy lejos. En general, cada grupo debe tener un fondo para aportar algo para ir a un evento, pero también debe mantener foto por John Sturm u n a comunicación abierta con Panamá Verde para que ellos sepan su capacidad de pagar; el no tener dinero no debe ser la cosa que impida que el grupo asista al evento. Si no tienes grupo de Panamá Verde pero te gustaría formar uno, solo hay que contactar a Panamá Verde o a mí y podemos ayudarte con eso con mucho gusto. Contactos Oficina de Panamá Verde: 236-5619, [email protected] Vidal Castillo, celular: 626-2621 Ennio Arcia, celular: 620-1965, [email protected] Lauren Fitzgerald: [email protected] foto por Julia Calendario 21-24 de abril: III Encuentro Nacional, Santa Clara, Coclé Vacaciones de medio año: Seminario de Liderazgo ¿? Día Internacional de Limpieza de Playas [email protected] 21 La Vaina 22 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 [email protected] La Vaina 23 La Vaina More than you Give por Pablo Kingsbury One of the lamest clichés used by returning volunteers is: “I got so much more than I gave.” While lame, I do agree that this should be the case and, as a card-carrying member of la jefa’s bottom 10%, I think I’m beginning to figure out how to make sure I get more than I give. Let me explain how: The first thing you have to do is a community analysis. Although this won’t help at all with any actual work, it’ll let you know who in your community has what. Who’s got chickens that are laying, cucumber ready to harvest, etc. Second, quit drinking coffee. I don’t mean completely, I just mean when you’re pasearing around your site. It’s inevitable, everybody is going to offer a cup of coffee. But if you don’t drink it, that confuses the hell out of the locals. They will, literally, scour the house, the garden, and the monte, looking for something to give you. And usually it ends up being a lot better than coffee. I tell you, I’ve mooched more pounds of cucumber than I’ve produced in my garden, more eggs than a ponedora project, and enough oranges to keep a thousand men free of scurvy into well into their old age. The key to doing this successfully is staying in your house until you’re sure that people have something to give you. You don’t want your strenuous pasearing to lead to you ending up with a bunch of yuca. When they do have something to give, go just about every day, even pretend you want to do a project with them. If their hens are laying, they will give you eggs every single day for a week. As long as you don’t drink any of their coffee. So with these simple methods in mind, you are well equipped to make sure that when you leave, you can say “I got more than I gave” and mean it. ‘The safety system is better in the office and doors are open’ -Maria Elena Ortiz 24 Grad School Applicants por Lorena Koller For those of you planning on applying to graduate programs while you are still a PCV here, you may not have to pay those $40+ application fees. Some universities will waive your application fee due to your Peace Corps status, or given that you live at “subsistence” level (which our monthly living allowance certainly confirms). Often, this information is not provided on the school’s web page, but can be checked by contacting someone in Admissions, or the head of the Graduate Department/Program you are applying to. PCVS have been granted application fee waivers for Masters, JD, and MBA programs in both private and public schools. It is worth a try, and can save you big bucks. Just remember: - Be sure to have your most recent W-2 available to confirm your salary. - Some schools explicitly state that the fee is “nonwaivable”, so read the fine print before sending them an email. News Flash!!! As of April 1st (no foolin’) Panama is Peace Corps’ official Medevac post for the Caribbean, and Central and South Americas. What’s this mean to us? Time to up our PSN (not BSN) capabilities. The Peer Support Network: An elite group of PC Panama volunteers trained and dedicated to helping fellow volunteers through tough times. Interested in receiving training? Let it be known. E-mail y+o at [email protected] with statements of intent or interest or just plain queries. “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina The Zach Attack or 1+1 = 4 por Vickie Fields After about twenty days of running, the first day of rest is finally in sight. I haven’t felt so busy since training. In midst of all of the chaos—Spanish classes, community fundraising discotecas, AVC, an in-site Panama Verde encuentro, and finally a day to do my laundry—there were times when I just longed for the hammock and days of having absolutely nothing to do. The tension of opposites as the scientific world calls it, which boils down used to succeeding in just about everything, but when I was benched most of the season I became disheartened, lost my passion for the sport, and gave up. The second time was my experience at the University of Pennsylvania, and for the first time encountering academic a level of competiveness that surpassed my expectations. This time I took the challenge very seriously, and somehow survived. What is different now? Two seemingly contradictory messages that Jean shared come to mind—again with the tension of opposites. The 10-80-10 policy, at the time I remember thinking, a little sadly, “well I suppose that puts me in the 80 category”. Like others, I was disillusioned by the idea of being placed in a percentile as if taking an exam. I personally think that some of the most important work we do cant be put on an informe. The message Jean gave me, is that Peace Corps is an individual challenge, and fits in with our American ideal of competiveness. foto por Jake McCleland But just a few weeks ago at AVC (or whatever it is called), Jean concluded the seminar by saying something that I found even more useful and encouraging. She Before I started Peace Corps I used to live high off of concluded the seminar by quoting a theorem of physics, having too much to do. I had to study for an exam, go to We are the integrated sum of our individual parts. We work, go to soccer practice. My calendar was stacked, came here to challenge ourselves individually, but I think our work stands out the most when these were my activities, my “I hope they play Enter Sandman” we think of Peace Corps Panama accomplishments. I joined the Peace as a team working together to Corps; to challenge myself as an better the country. individual, to see what I could accomplish. Wow! The idea certainly impresses me. Maybe we came here thinking While this still holds true, for me, one “I can move mountains, I can of the most important lessons that I change the world” but what I have have learned here in Panama is that discovered is that I cannot do these in terms of personal successes, the things alone, but together, as a group is more important than the Peace Corps, we can move individual. This is the third time in my mountains and we can change the life that I have felt this way, but I think world. Our program is a globally that this time it has hit me harder and recognized entity of social has humbled me in a way that it didn’t progress, and it continues strongly before. because there are those of us who The first time was when I played see the potential for change from Varsity soccer in high school. I was to the fact that Sunday is meant to be a day of rest. [email protected] 25 La Vaina working together. ‘Shared good times and bad Shared vision, mission, values Friends across cultures’ I was amazed at AVC this year, remembering how overwhelmed and -Jean Lujan discouraged I felt by last years’ CEC sector conferences. I can see how far the CEC program has come in just the last year, under the leadership of Francisco and Carlos. We may have been frustrated redefining our sector goals last year, but because of that effort, we have come out this year with more optimistic, energetic volunteers dedicated to their mission and knowing what their goals are. It is a huge accomplishment that has helped guide me, especially in the push toward working more with school and youth (Panama Verde), and in recognizing the importance of youth development as a primary sector goal. ‘Uriahmaniasis’ por Goodriend I also saw in Peter´s summary of the surveys, in Jean´s concluding speech, and in the greater participation of the Peace Corps staff, that we have come far in this last year overall, and we continually are moving towards becoming that integrated whole, which Jean spoke about. I would like to conclude with an example I think most people from foto por Jake McCleland the Saved by The Bell generation\cult following w i l l recognize. The episode I was thinking about is the “ Z a c h Attack” where the gang decides 26 Brownies del Campo por Bego I have had many requests to put this brownie recipe in La Vaina, so here it is. If you are unlucky enough to live in a place where they don’t grow cacao, then I guess you could use the unsweetened Hershey’s chocolate.... but it’s not guaranteed. On that note, this recipe is also not guaranteed, I just guess on the ingredients and I encourage you to do the same, they always come out different, but here is my best estimate: ¼ cup oil or butter ¼ cup grated or smashed cacao ¾ cup sugar (the white kind works the best, but whatever you’ve got) 1 pinch of salt 1 tsp vanilla (you can never have too much vanilla) ½ tsp royal (baking powder) 1 egg 2 T water or milk ½ cup flour Heat the butter or oil and then add the cacao so it melts nicely, add the sugar, vanilla, egg and salt and mix it up. Add the rest of the stuff and see how the consistency looks. Here are the general rules: -If you add more flour they will be more cakey instead of fudgey -If you add more flour you should also add more royal -Other tasty additions are coffee (just the grounds) and peanut butter -The cacao they make in your sites has the natural oils in it, if you use store bought stuff you should add some more oil. -On that same note, when using cacao, don’t put too much oil or your brownies will be really greasy to form a band. Zack, the slacker, falls asleep and dreams that they make it big. But then fights within the group start and he breaks off on his own, leaving everyone behind. In the end, no one succeeds, not even Zack. The point is, we may be out working individually, but we form a network, and we function because of different strengths that each person brings to the program. In other words, as the Jefa said: 1+1=4. “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” La Vaina April - June 2005 Peace Corps and Infoplazas Por Pablo In a meeting between the Director of Infoplazas at SENACYT’s and myself, SENACYT agreed to our request that PCVs be authorized to plan activities and run training sessions at all SENACYT Infoplazas. SENACYT is sending your names to the nearest Infoplaza to inform the Infoplaza’s Administrators about this new agreement, so please take some time to visit your nearest Infoplaza. Any activities should be planned in coordination with the administrators of the Infoplaza. The use of the Internet is only 25 cents per hour for the PCVs in an Infoplaza. I hope you will take advantage of the opportunity to help train people in the IT skills. Here is a list of the Infoplazas and the closest Volunteers. [email protected] 27 There La Vaina Culture Clash Por Franny White hopefully reverse harms that have already been done. I can’t help but wonder if maybe some of Old timers smile through their wrinkled eyes and chat my work here has sent under the shade of the tienda’s roof. The sounds of Malena further down a young people playing football come from down the dirt destructive path. That road. Meanwhile, kids too young to play football engage may be a bit too strong, in an equally competitive round of jacks on their aunt’s but the outside forces – namely the people’s drive porch. to earn money “there hasn’t been as for an easier, The old men in their straw m o r e sombreros, the young women much daily work to sifting through platones of dry force everyone into comfortable life – seem far too rice, the even younger men constant labor.” powerful. hauling fishing nets toward the beach for another night on the Golfo de Montijo. These are all things that I never want to change. These are the It’s not the environment that I’m talking about here. That’s daily, routine things I cherish most about Malena, my relatively easy for me to convince my residents to protect – there are clear, cause-and-effect scientific explanations community on the Pacific coast of Veraguas. for that. What about my town’s way of life, its native With increasing tourist interest in the area and the locals’ spirit, its culture? I see Malena’s people, their personalities growing hunger for financial resources, I worry that much and their manner of being, and I see truly humble, downof Malena’s rural charm will disappear in the name of to-earth people living life as it seems we were intended to live. Malenans don’t necessarily see this – it’s just the development. way that they are. I worry Malenans won’t be able to In the 50-some years since Herrerano emigrants founded see how such ‘advancements’ could actually be causing Malena, the town has changed. It grew from two families irrevocable harm. living in penca huts to 124 habitants living in mostly concrete block homes. In the beginning, residents had to Several residents recently received extensive business and tourism training by an NGO. Now that many have walk hours to the nearest for the daily boat taxi. seen the latent economic potential of our picturesque, oceanside town, people are Now buses come straight through the middle of foto por Goodfriend beginning to scheme ways to our dirt road at least nine times a day. The land make a profit. From fishermen was wild then, covered with dense foliage and a offering boat tours to variety of wildlife. Now all the surrounding homeowners renting out rooms to terrain has been parceled off, the trees chopped visitors, everyone is imagining down, the soil too scorched to reliably produce ways to get a piece of the action. anything but cattle pastures, and the wildlife has I initially viewed this is as a good fled. thing. Malena was diversifying its income base and preparing for Malenans themselves have seen these changes the future. I eagerly helped occur in their own lifetimes. I wonder if they locals put together basic business can see what calamities the next 50 years may proposals and encouraged their bring if they’re not careful. Sure, I’m here to entrepreneurial zeal. But as help my town plan wisely for its future and I overlook the burning summer sun from the cool of my front porch and take in the scene of another Malenan afternoon. 28 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” La Vaina April - June 2005 foto por Christel S a n t i a g o residents begin to flock to our beach in the beginning of the summer season, I now see how adversely a f f e c t e d Malenans are by the big-city visitors. The youth, in particular, have begun to imitate the pop culture driven ideals of designer clothes, hit music and partying. Already, the kids of the few families who still live and work in the hills surrounding Malena have commented on how Malena youth seem to do nothing, while they are out caring for their families’ fields nearly every day. Malena’s older residents have told me it didn’t use to be this way. But since people started raising cows and buying their food instead of growing it, there hasn’t been as much daily work to force everyone into constant labor. In their idle time, Malena’s youth sit along the road and observe the flashy cars and the demeanor of the Santiago weekenders and the foreign tourists who drive them. Malena has traditionally been a close-knit, religious community that did not drink. But more and more now, youth visit the cantinas of neighboring towns. They are no longer interested in learning the traditional agrarian practices of their parents. Instead, they seem to prefer the quick, less laborious buck … and spending it on extravagant clothing or nighttime entertainment. If the drive for money and material things succeeds in Malena, I can easily see how lifestyles could change and end what I love about. Instead of playing football, I imagine the youth would sit in their own homes to watch satellite MTV on television sets. Consumed by the desire to buy more “necessary” goods, Malenan adults wouldn’t have time for the relaxed, intimate chats between neighbors. The local tiendas would cease to offer the town’s former mainstay of home-cooked chicheme and instead succumb to the selling power of the tourist’s popular “Latin” beverage, Corona. The town’s few remaining fisherman would no longer independently practice traditional fishing in their small lanchas. The fisherman’s practice of bringing home a fresh-caught meal for their families would become obsolete. I suppose Malena’s story is much like the gradual urbanization of any other rural town. But living here now, enjoying Malena’s current bliss and seeing the changes take place first hand makes it difficult to accept the changes. I’ve only lived here seven months and already I’m incredibly attached and protective of all that makes this town wonderful. No doubt Malena’s own residents, most of whom have lived here their entire lives, are far prouder and more defensive of their own pueblo. But I worry that increasing pressure to make money and to participate in a growing, commercial society will eventually take precedence over preserving the ideals and qualities that make up Malena’s culture. I usually fight to make change and to advance the world. But now I find myself firmly against it, wanting to keep things exactly the way they are. Malena isn’t perfect, but the commercialized version I picture it becoming is far worse. foto por Ben Clark [email protected] As Peace Corps volunteers, we’re trained to teach defined areas like organic agriculture, latrine and aqueduct construction, small businesses basics and environmental protection. But how can I convince my town that something as intangible, but essential, as its culture and soul are far more valuable than a bag of Balboas? Franny White is a nationally syndicated columnist whose columns are printed in over 24,000 newspapers, magazines and bathroom walls worldwide. She can be reached at: [email protected]. 29 La Vaina Damn Peace Corps Hippies foto por Johanna por Brian Fisher “Everyone should boycott Barnes and Noble” assuredly comments a fellow volunteer as we sit down with a beer after our last regional meeting. After the All Volunteer Conference I overheard a friend rant against the US economic and cultural hegemony abroad. The Peace Corps crowd is one of the most dynamic and interesting groups that I have been part of, but the lack of diversity of perspective, and abundance of criticism of big business and big government often surprises me. It seems to me that we are too quick to play David taking on Goliath. Does our skepticism of size and power blind us to his benefits and value? Volunteers never seem to think twice about boycotting companies without considering that they are instruments created, demanded and controlled by the general public. Barnes and Noble exists because Americans LOVE to pay too much for coffee while browsing for books they don’t intend to buy. f l a w e d . McDonalds will never be ‘the Enron of the foodservice industry’ its not going to happen. They argue that a business like Barnes and Noble consolidates market share, and thus dictates what consumers read. It is a justifiable threat as big name publishers may have undue influence in winning shelf space, but it also caters a little too much to the conspiracy theory crowd, who believe that businesses dictate to consumers on a one-way street. They lose sight of the fact that this market influence stems from the desires of the people and prevailing public opinion. The small private book store owner could be more prone to allow his subjectivity and personal taste influence the books he carries, where as the corporate retailer would make decisions collectively based on nation-wide reviews and demand. No system is without drawbacks, and big business causes its share of problems. But to be so aggressive with your opinion often forces you to work backwards, you decide that you don’t like something, and then come up with Their other grievance was that a Board of Directors reasons to support that opinion; this reasoning in inherently doesn’t care about the quality of reading material, but concerns itself solely with turning a profit. The jefe´s first priority is, and should be, his fiscal responsibility to share holders, but this economic motivation benefits the public as well, and does not warrant David´s stone. A corporation’s financial success is contingent upon effectively providing consumers with what they need and want, so a CEO´s success hinges on public welfare and contentment. In the “Wealth of Nations” Adam Smith demonstrated how this private search for profit advances public interests, and how a corporations’ success indicates its value to society. Homogenous corporate retailers scattered across the country do detract from a town’s individuality. I too like the romantic idea of living in a small town devoid of chain vendors, but I also enjoy their convenience, lower cost, and accessibility; Starbucks serves good coffee, and Outback makes a good steak. Before slaying this perceived cultural menace, it is important to recognize that it is a menace with proven value that society benefits from the unprecedented access and availability offered to them. 30 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Panama In The News... The Houston Chronicle February 27, 2005 JOHN OTIS Colombia says it’s time to close the gap PUERTO MELUK, COLOMBIA In an era of space travel and spreading global trade, the lack of a road connection between North America and South America baffles many drivers. But builders of foto por Shanna the 16,000mile-long PanAmerican Highway system, which stretches from Fairbanks, Alaska, to the southern tip of Chile, never bridged the Darien Jungle in Panama and the Colombian province of Choco. The 60-mile chasm, which is known as the Darien Gap, can only be crossed by foot or dugout canoe. Now, President Alvaro Uribe of Colombia wants to complete the highway system. ”Future generations will wonder why there is a highway from Panama to Alaska and from Colombia to Patagonia but no route uniting the two Americas,” Uribe said at a November summit of Latin American presidents in Costa Rica. Uribe’s proposal to build a road to finish the network would require the cooperation of Panama and cost the two governments up to $ 500 million. In the United foto por Rebecca Schram States, the e n t i r e could devastate livestock. interstate h i g h w a y Indians in both Panama and Colombia system is pointed out that the highway had considered already lured thousands of farmers part of the and loggers to the Darien Jungle, P a n - where they had razed huge patches A m e r i c a n of rain forest considered one of the world’s most important ecosystems. route. U.S. and Panamanian authorities, in Washington became convinced of the turn, feared that Colombian need for a road network linking the traffickers could drive truckloads of Americas during World War II and cocaine across the border. agreed to pick up some of the construction costs, with the rest Today, Uribe argues that his hard-line coming from nations along the route. security policies have drug smugglers on the run and that completion of the By the 1980s, the highway system highway network would bring was in place except for the so-called economic growth to poor areas. Darien Gap, and Washington had cut off funding But Panamanian officials seem because of unconvinced. Ligia Castro, director of c o n c e r n s Panama’s Darien National Authority, about foot- recently suggested that a ferry link to and-mouth Colombia would be cheaper and d i s e a s e , predicted that her government would which if it be lambasted by environmentalists if w a s it green-lighted the road. transported from south ”A road across Darien could make a m e r i c a Panama look very bad in the eyes of the world,” Castro said. foto por Andrew [email protected] 31 La Vaina Panama In The News... New York Times February 13, 2005 ALEX MARKELS Beauty and Tax Breaks Lure Buyers to Panama WHEN Larry and Honey Dodge of Jackson, Wyo., first visited this fledgling eco-tourist destination two years ago, they were thinking about retiring abroad and decided to take a vacation here to check it out. They had read about Panama’s diverse climate of tropical beaches and mountain cloud forests, as well as its recent efforts to lure foreigners with residential visas for anyone with just $500 a month in personal income and generous breaks on property and income taxes. ‘’Almost from the minute we got there, we were, like, ‘This is the place,’’’ Mrs. Dodge said of the creek-side building site with a view of the surrounding mountains. ‘’It was perfect.’’ Little wonder that Panama is increasingly lighting up the radar screens of those searching for an affordable alternative to more traditional south-of-the-border retreats in Mexico, Costa Rica and the Caribbean, where escalating prices increasingly rival those along America’s own beachfronts. Touted as the ‘’next Costa Rica’’ by travel magazines and newsletters like International Living, Panama is undergoing a land rush as its To c u m e n Airport fills with planeloads of eager foreigners with cash in hand. Committed libertarians, Mrs. Dodge, 58, and Mr. Dodge, 63, both retired, also liked the country’s laissez-faire stance on private property rights and entrepreneurship. Best of all, land prices as low as a few thousand dollars an acre and building costs starting around $40 a square foot meant the two foto por John Sturm could afford to sell their house, build a new one in Panama Since 2001, once sleepy rural towns and still have plenty of money left over like Boquete, which AARP’s Modern Maturity magazine named one of the to cover their living expenses. world’s best places to retire, have Their trip to Panama, an S-shaped seen real estate prices rise as much isthmus with 1,600 miles of combined as fivefold as developers transform coastline on the Atlantic and Pacific farmland into high-end developments Oceans, was a success. Before they like Valle Escondido, a gated golfreturned home to Wyoming, they put course community where half-acre down $27,000 for a small plot of land lots now sell for $100,000 and more. in Altos Del Maria, a mountainside Prices in coastal areas like Bocas Del real estate development an hour and Toro, on the Caribbean Sea, have a half drive from Panama City. also skyrocketed, and a restoration under way in Panama City’s historic 32 foto por Jake McCleland Casco Viejo neighborhood has drawn foreigners eager to get a piece of its 330-year-old history. Yet despite the price increases, property here remains a fraction of what one would pay for similar real estate in the United States. And with enticements like a 20-year suspension of property taxes to those who build houses or renovate in a historic district, and an income tax hiatus for those starting some small businesses, the opportunities are appealing not only for those seeking a place to retire but also for entrepreneurs. At least that is what Douglas Lonneker, 39, and Gloria Esguerra, 28, are counting on. Eager to spend a few years in a foreign country before their 2-year-old child is old enough to go to school, the couple recently bought, as an investment, development property in the western highlands near Boquete and in Bocas Del Toro along the Caribbean Coast, as well as an apartment in downtown Panama City, where they plan to live full-time. A real estate investor and stock market trader, Mr. Lonneker was attracted by Panama City’s thriving business community, including more than 100 international banks and a tax-free manufacturing zone, as well as a technological sophistication, including “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 high-speed Internet service in his new apartment. ‘’Everything works,’’ he said. ‘’And because it’s a financial center for Latin America, it’s easy to establish banking relationships and locate money managers and accountants. You don’t get that in places like Costa Rica.’’ Then, of course, there is the lure of Panama City’s urban lifestyle, including a young, hip population and a bevy of good restaurants, bars and nightlife. Ms. Esguerra, a dog groomer, is especially taken with Casco Viejo, where high-profile residents have renovated oncecrumbling buildings, like the waterfront three-story home of the musician-turned-politician Ruben Blades, who is now the country’s minister of tourism. Resembling a cross between the French Quarter of New Orleans and Old Havana in Cuba, the neighborhood is situated on a small peninsula that juts out into Panama Bay on the Pacific Coast. Its ornate Spanish colonial and neo-Classical architecture offers a stunning counterpoint to downtown Panama City’s glass-enclosed high-rise buildings poking up across the water. Largely abandoned by the city’s wealthy beginning in the late 1950’s, many of Casco Viejo’s buildings fell into disrepair as squatters moved in and growing drug use gave it a reputation as the city’s most dangerous neighborhood. Yet the United Nations declared the neighborhood — one of the oldest settlements in the Americas — a World Heritage site in 1997 (the Panama Canal didn’t even make the La Vaina list), and the government has since poured millions into infrastructure improvements, building restorations and additional policing. of the highland and Caribbean coastal areas near the country’s border with Costa Rica. foto por John Sturm There is also the problem of u n t i t l e d property, especially in the coastal areas around Bocas Del Toro, where several lawsuits are now pending over land illegally sold to foreign buyers by the former municipal government. ’’It’s like walking through one of the old cities of Europe,’’ Ms. Esguerra said of the neighborhood, where she and Mr. Lonneker hope to find a building to renovate. ‘’It’s absolutely where we want to be.’’ While property prices have approximately doubled in the last five years, ‘’there’s still a ton of upside potential in Casco,’’ said Kathleen Peddicord, publisher of International Living, which recently renovated a building there to house its local office. ‘’Every time I visit, it gets more cleaned up, and these grand old buildings are being resurrected. The more that happens, the more people will want to come.’’ foto por Shanna She is less sanguine, however, about some other areas on buyers’ radar screens. For example, she does not recommend buying in Boquete or Bocas Del Toro, two of the most popular places for foreign buyers in recent years. ‘’It’s really beautiful, but there’s been a buying frenzy in that little pocket of the country,’’ she said [email protected] ’’It’s definitely a place where you need to be very careful about what you’re buying,’’ said Michael Manville, a real estate consultant who leads buying trips to Panama. As for Boquete, he, too, is wary of rising prices, and instead recommends areas closer to Panama City, such as Sora, where the Altos Del Maria development is located. The Dodges heartily agree. They consider towns like Boquete and Volcan too far from Panama City. So enamored were they with Altos Del Maria that they recently decided to trade up to a larger lot nearby to build their dream house, part of which they plan to open as a bed-and-breakfast business. At $105,000 just for the land, ‘’it wasn’t cheap,’’ she said. ’’But it’s got 50 papaya trees, 100 banana trees and a dam on the creek that makes a little pool where you can swim,’’ she added. ‘’And if the B&B thing doesn’t work out, we’ll have extra bedrooms for everyone to come and visit.’’ 33 La Vaina Panama In The News... Los Angeles Times workers, one canal official said. The project probably would include a fivemile bypass of the current canal route on its Pacific side, a feature designed for the larger ships. January 22, 2005 Chris Kraul $5 Billion Expansion of Panama Canal is Considered Prodded by possible competition, the Panama Canal’s board of directors will probably propose a $5-billion expansion that would add a parallel set of locks so the waterway could accommodate giant container cargo ships. The expanded canal would accommodate not only bigger ships but also more of them. As it is, traffic is expected to top out at 42 ships a day in the next decade. ‘The branch bends, rebounds With challenge comes growth, little One – search for the core’ -Barbara Gulick about 60 miles south of Ensenada. The port would be connected to the U.S. rail grid by a new 125-mile railroad to the U.S.-Mexico border. Officially, the canal authority has kept Top executives of the Panama Canal The project would be financed mostly mum on details of a possible expansion, Authority said in interviews that the with revenue from the canal’s shipping which has been the subject of $50 million in studies administration saw a real threat that a competing project might be built initiated in 2000. And that in Central America or Mexico. As a has drawn fire from critics defensive measure, they said, the 90— such as Jorge year-old waterway must be Giannareas, former newspaper editor and now expanded or eventually it will become just a “regional canal.” university professor — who say the process should be The expansion would enhance the more transparent. canal as a major transit route for Environmentalists worry that Asian cargo destined for southern foto por Shanna and eastern U.S. ports such as New the expansion would harm Orleans, Houston, Tampa, Fla., customers, who would pay a surcharge ecosystems, displace thousands of Savannah, Ga., and Norfolk, Va., the that would pay off bonds issued to peasant farmers and require too much officials said. The elimination of the underwrite the cost of the construction, water. global textile quota system this year is an official said. likely to increase Chinese cargo traffic One of the officials speaking off the to the United States, canal officials Canal executives are concerned about record said the authority was leaning proposals to build canals or toward using a system that would believe. “multimodal” systems, which include recycle water used to fill up the locks, The expansion would increase the both canals and other means of moving similar to systems used in some maximum ship length to 1,265 feet and cargo, in Mexico’s Tehuantepec European ports. the ship draft — the depth of water isthmus or through Nicaragua, El the vessel needs in order to float — to Salvador or Honduras. Some critics say a lack of transparency 50 feet from 39 feet, the officials said. is hurting the Torrijos government, The 51-mile-long canal system was Pressure for an alternative route is which recently proposed a broad fiscal completed in 1914 by the United rising because the Long Beach and Los reform to raise up to $500 million in States, which retained control until it Angeles ports, which receive much of additional taxes. turned over the facility to Panama in Asia’s U.S.-bound container cargo, are approaching capacity. December 1999. Finance Minister Ricaurte Vasquez was quoted in the local media as saying The expansion project would be a Another mega-project being discussed the reforms were crucial to the massive undertaking requiring 10 is the construction of a new Mexican feasibility of the canal expansion, but years of labor and about 10,000 port facility near the town of Colonet, he did not provide details. 34 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Panama In The News... Chicago Tribune March 6, 2005 HOWARDREICH A Culture With A Lost Past PANAMA CITY — A young woman swathed in a luminous green gown twists and turns onstage, as if possessed. As she sways across the proscenium, bending her body in sinuous and hypnotic ways, a small army of percussionists fires off a flurry of backbeats, their tempo accelerating as the tribal dance unfolds. Thousands in the audience, watching beneath a scorching afternoon sun, cheer loudly, their chants almost drowning out the accompanying jazz band, while the dancer continues to gyrate before them, her gestures inspiring further waves of adulation and exultation. But the Panamanians egging on the performer aren’t merely whiling away an afternoon at the Panama Jazz Festival, where the Bannaba Project — which merges ritual dance with modern jazz — is proving a certifiable sensation. More important, the locals are beholding their ancient past, attempting to connect with the origins of a Panamanian culture they’re only beginning to rediscover and understand. of conquest by armies near and far, thanks to the often overweening cultural influence of the United States — which controlled the Panama Canal through most of the 20th Century — Panamanians have almost no record of a musical scene that may have rivaled New Orleans as a nexus of early jazz. By trying to retrieve their musical heritage, through performance ensembles such as the Bannaba Project and through the fledgling foto por Gil Panama Jazz Festival itself, Panamanians are not only attempting to reconstruct their cultural legacy. Equally important, they’re trying to find — through music — a sense of self-worth that has been battered through centuries of domination by foreign powers. ”We need to bring our self-esteem up, after all the stuff that has happened here,” says Panamanian salsa star and movie actor Ruben Blades, who last year left Hollywood to become Panama’s minister of tourism. Speaking passionately about his country during lunch at Their quest carries implications for the rest of the musical Restaurante Martin Fierro, a short drive from his office in the capital’s architecturally majestic but world, for it speaks to the origins of jazz and partly crumbling Old City, Blades believes its precursors. ‘Entrenar mucho that his compatriots are on a mission. Más conocimiento That’s because Panama — like Havana Panamanians, he says, are trying to Aprendizaje’ “understand our own music.” and New Orleans — once stood at the -Erubey Calvo crossroads of the slave trade, the Africans Adds Panamanian pianist Danilo Perez, chatting who forcibly were brought here, and elsewhere across the Americas, carrying with them the rhythms and between sets at the jazz festival he created, “We have to techniques that eventually blossomed into jazz and its many help our self-image, and I think music does that. offshoots. ”We have to erase the stereotype, the idea that Panama But while the sounds of Havana and New Orleans have is mangos and bananas, that whole mentality. been celebrated around the world, the historic music of ”We have a lot of great talent here. The one thing we Panama practically has disappeared. Thanks to centuries have is culture — but we don’t know it.” [email protected] 35 La Vaina foto por Gil Moreover, the history of this country — which didn’t become an independent nation until 1903 — hauntingly echoes the origins of America’s first city of jazz, New Orleans. Just as the cultures of Spain, France, Africa and North America shaped the music of Louisiana, so too did these same influences converge in Panama. The Spanish conquerors of centuries ago left behind their language, architecture and European musical traditions, while the English traders who brought slaves here provided a critical element in the emergence of a distinct Panamanian music: the mystical, ancient sounds of Africa, borne by men and women in chains. The arrival of the French, in the 1880s, to attempt to build a canal (a failed venture that cost 22,000 lives and nearly bankrupted France) and the Americans in 1904, to construct the Panama Canal, completed the picture. Like Louisiana, Panama at the dawn of the 20th Century was poised to create a nascent jazz. Gil Panama today indeed stands at a kind of crossroads. Having received control of its primary economic engine — the Panama Canal — from the U.S. on the last day of 1999 and having elected Pres. Martin Torrijos last fall, the country finally stands poised to fully take hold of its future. Yet after centuries of living under the influence of Colombia, Spain, France, the United States and other external forces, Panama has yet to find its own voice and identity, its sense of its cultural worth. Musical roots To do so, it has begun looking to a musical past that barely has survived. Only a few tantalizing fragments of Panama’s sprawling musical history endures, in fact, to suggest that this isthmus — where the sun seems to rise over the Pacific and set over the Atlantic — once flourished as a cultural powerhouse. From the ancient chants and ritualized dances of the indigenous Kuna people (including the aforementioned dancer of the Bannaba Project) to the American-made recordings of Panama’s first bona fide jazz star, pianist Luis Russell (who powered Louis Armstrong’s great bands of the 1930s), Panama’s musical roots run deep. But with the exception of the music of Luis Russell, a Panamanian jazz genius who moved to New Orleans in 1919, at age 17, the first chapter of Panama jazz may totally have escaped documentation. If we are to judge by the accomplishments of Russell — who famously collaborated with such first-generation New Orleans jazzmen as clarinetist Albert Nicholas, drummer Paul Barbarin and the great Satchmo himself — the initial wave of Panamanian jazz artists was formidable. That a Panamatrained musician such as Russell, one of many Panamanian jazz pioneers, could hold his own alongside the first great jazzmen of New O r l e a n s suggests that the C e n t r a l American country may have been at the forefront of the music. foto por Gil 36 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 Unfortunately, Panamanians of Russell’s vintage “had a chance to listen to the jazz but never the technology to record jazz groups here in Panama,” says Ernesto Crouch, a Panamanian music historian and drummer who has been researching the subject for decades. Orleans jazz pianist named Jelly Roll Morton began composing “King Porter Stomp,” which would become a theme song for the new music. foto por Jake McCleland Poor country From the late 19th Century to the early 20th, when attempts to build the canal brought a wide swath of cultural influences here, Panama “was slums,” adds Crouch, the country too poor and technologically undeveloped to try to document its own art. ”Even by the ’30s, there were no recordings,” says Francisco Buckley, a Panamanian music scholar who stands under a tent throughout the festival, in the Old City, selling copies of his recent book “The Salsa Music of Panama and Other Matters” (available only in Panama). La Vaina The influx of American servicemen and civilians, as well as workers from across the Western Hemisphere, practically ignited Colon with the sound of jazz. The city became a kind of New Orleans of the Caribbean, its all-night bars, rowdy dance bands and 24-hour carnival atmosphere providing an ambience parallel to the Crescent City to the north. Nearly forgotten musicians such as Samuel “Sam” Gooding, who led an eponymous band, and Professor Reginald Prescott, who fronted The Ambassadors of Jazz, thrived in Panama throughout the Roaring ’20s. They played rooms such as the Blue Moon and the Cotton Club, creating a music designed to entertain the American visitors, and others. ”Colon was a crazy place, because that was where most of the ships came in,” says Buckley, who enthusiastically discusses the history of Panamanian music with passersby throughout the festival. ”The sailors would go around the clubs, and they brought music, they sometimes brought their instruments to play. ”But the people who heard this music, they remember,” adds Buckley, who interviewed scores of musicians and listeners for his volume. In addition, he cites yellowed newspaper clippings that reference a jazz scene that thrived in the Panamanian provinces of Colon and Boca del Toros. For centuries, Africans concentrated here, on the side of Panama facing the Atlantic and the U.S., the city of Colon emerging as the capital of a recognizably Central American brand of jazz. ”If 1904 was the beginning of the American influence, by 1914, when the canal was completed, American servicemen were all over Colon. ”If the Panamanian musicians wanted to make money, they had to play what the Americans wanted to h e a r . ” foto por Gil The scene blossomed as Americans and others began work on the Panama Canal, in 1904 — just when a New Moreover, only American armed services radio broadcast in Panama until 1937, when the country’s first independent station went on the air, which meant that American big-band and small-ensemble music [email protected] 37 La Vaina held sway throughout Panama during nearly the first four decades of the 20th Century. foto por Aaron Ball Rare recording But Luis Russell may be the only earlygeneration Panamanian jazz star whose music survives on recording, thanks wholly to his move to the States. The entire world that produced him seems to have disappeared, having never been recorded in any form. Though Fred Ramdeen’s and Henry Barlow’s bands in the 1930s, Victor Reid’s Aristocrats of Jazz and Eduardo Ralston’s Royal Sultans in the 1940s are mentioned in old concert flyers and news reports, their music vanished with their era. Though these LPs are difficult to find, pianist Perez — Not until the late 1950s and ’60s did Panama begin who has been collecting this music for a recording its own artists, yet even these historic lifetime — spends an afternoon playing discs are difficult to find, because the It’s all the same cassette tapes for a visitor in the country did not have the wherewithal to The cycle repeats – fortify Panama City apartment of his father, collate and archive its popular music. and change, that’s the way the singer and educator Danilo Perez Sr. Yet the occasional recording that has -Barbara Gulick surfaced reveals a musical culture of As the music booms through a couple of small extraordinary power, originality and speakers, Perez smiles, dances and occasionally narrates, sophistication. pointing out key passages in music that most of the world foto por Gil never has heard. The sounds easily justify his enthusiasm. Listen to the roaring swing band of Armando Boza, the brilliant jazzorgan virtuosity of Avelino Munoz, the calypso-meetsjazz vocals of Sylvia De Grasse, the Cuban-Panamanian melange of pianist Papo Lucca’s big band, and it’s clear that music of this caliber only could have emerged in a culture in which jazz had thrived for decades. Like its American counterpart, Panamanian jazz churned out hard-swinging rhythms, brilliant instrumental solos and, sometimes, musical quotations from U.S. stars such as Charlie Parker, James Moody and Ella Fitzgerald. But Panamanian jazz also distinguished itself from the music of the States, offering a particularly Caribbean perspective on the art form. Generally more lyrical, more folkloric and less rhythmically agitated than its American counterpart, Panamanian jazz — at least judging by those 38 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 rare recordings of the ’50s — offered a hauntingly melodic approach to the art of jazz improvisation. And though there’s no mistaking in this music the sway of Cuba — its dance rhythms and song forms to this day influencing music across the Americas — the foto or Ben Clark La Vaina growing up, in the ’40s and ’50s,” remembers Victor “Vitin” Paz, a legendary Panamanian trumpeter who eventually moved to New York before returning to Panama City, five years ago. Sitting on a bench in a Panama City park, occasionally noodling on his trumpet, Paz thinks back on music he heard more than half a century ago, its cadences clearly playing in his inner ear as he speaks. ”We listened to the Armed Forces radio, where we heard the American music — Harry James, Glenn Miller, Benny Goodman, Dizzy Gillespie, Cab Calloway. ”And then, from my house, I could hear the music coming out of the bars — Spanish music, Cuban music, Panamanian jazz. It was thrilling, like the whole world was coming together in Panama.” Panamanians in some ways even withstood the impact of Havana. By building performances on Panamanian folk tunes, invoking Panama’s signature tamborito rhythm and employing instruments such as the bocona — a small, five-string guitar probably invented in Panama — as well as various indigenous drums, the Panamanians created a self-styled music that stands apart from anything else in Central America (or anywhere else). Where the jazz ends and the folkloric tradition begins varies from one recording and one performance to another, just as it does in Cuba. Yet the Panamanians have a cultural legacy to be proud of — if only they could flesh it out. ”One of the problems that we have in Panama is that we have no institution that keeps order or documentation of our music,” says Ricaurte Villarreal, a virtuoso percussionist and folklorist who teaches at the University of Panama. As he speaks, he illustrates particular rhythms and pitch patterns on the traditional Panamanian drum he carries wherever he goes. Inside the clubs, the Panamanian players were combining the fire and fury of American jazz with the smoldering melodicism and unhurried rhythms of the Caribbean. ”You could hear on alto saxophone Bat Gordon, who could blow like crazy in those days,” recalls Carlos Garnett, who was born in the U.S.-controlled Canal Zone in 1938, moved to the States in 1962, where he earned a sterling reputation, before returning home a few years ago. At the Panama Jazz Festival, he galvanizes the crowd with the sheer sonic heft and musical complexity of his solos. ”And on trumpet there was Gene White, and on piano Victor Boa,” adds Garnett, the latter having championed Panama’s “tambo jazz,” which embraces uniquely Panamanian rhythms. “All killer musicians.” foto por Shanna ”So even the recordings from the ’50s and ’60s that do exist are very hard to find,” adds Villarreal. “They are in private collections, not public.” Yet to those who heard this music as it was being forged, it left an indelible impression. ”It was a fascinating time to be in Panama when I was [email protected] 39 La Vaina Indeed, Gordon and White often were referred to as the Parker and Gillespie of Panama, while Boa’s all-overthe-keyboard virtuosity evoked comparisons to no less than Art Tatum. Singer Barbara Wilson, meanwhile, was dubbed Panama’s Ella Fitzgerald. hear it, when you hear this stuff, you go, `My God, the chords, what they’re doing!’ ”And the songs have very poetic names, like, `The Song About the Dance of the Long-Beaked Bird’ — really complicated.” Complex folkloric music But that was only one foto por Gil facet of Panama’s musical riches. Another was its extraordinarily complex and subtle folkloric music. It developed as blacks, Hispanics and indigenous Panamanians intermingled, creating a huge but unwritten lexicon of intricate rhythmic patterns and motifs, as well as distinctly Panamanian drums (such as the pujador, the repicador and the caja santena) and other indigenous musical instruments. The music of Panamanian antiquity still flourishes in the country’s interior, where more than half a dozen tribes with roots in Africa have developed a seemingly infinite array of rhythms and improvisational forms. But this music does not exist on recordings or in notation — it survives entirely in the hands and hearts of the men and women who perform it. If it were ever properly and systematically documented, it could offer a window on the roots of jazz and, perhaps, all African-derived music. ”The sadness is that not only does the world not know the beauty of Panamanian music — even we Panamanians do not,” says the folklorist Villarreal, who has been spending his own time, buying his own recording equipment and otherwise digging into his own pocket to try to capture the music of Panama’s tribes before it disappears or transforms itself. Since Blades became minister of tourism, last September, “I’ve been traveling through all the country, trying to understand what it is that we have,” Blades says. ”I was stunned by the quality of what I was listening to. . . . I’m telling you, man, the thing is — it’s hypnotic, it’s got something that I thought was Haitian. But when you 40 Though casual observers might say, “So what?” — who cares what Panama’s jazz musicians invented in 1904 or their African tribes have been playing for centuries? — the answers mean a great deal to many people, starting with Panamanians. An oft-tempestuous relationship with the United States may help explain why many Panamanians long to find a cultural profile of their own. The tensions date back to Panama’s first day as sovereign country, in 1903, when many Panamanians felt that they had been forced to pay too high a price for U.S. support of their bid for independence — American control of the canal, in perpetuity. The presence of American military in and outside the Canal Zone, where American soldiers enjoyed a higher standard of living than Panamanians, predictably did not sit well with locals. And a riot in 1964, when American troops killed and injured Panamanians protesting the removal of their flag from the Canal Zone, embittered many. The U.S. invasion to oust Panamanian dictator Manuel Noriega, in 1989, also nurtured tensions. ”It’s very hard to be invaded by a foreign country and see people getting killed,” says Javier Carrizo, president of Fundacion Violete por el Arte, an organization that has been championing Panamanian music for nearly two decades. ”There was too much killing, too much suffering. ”Music brings us back to life,” adds Carrizo. “It tells us who we are. “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Paris, Milan, New York…and Panama Por Lorena Kolla Always on the pulse of the newest runway trends, I am often disappointed when Panama is not mentioned as one of the world’s fashion leaders. For two years I have been faithfully toting my Sponge Bob saco and plastic jewelery, waiting for a similar look to show up on the pages of Vogue. Will toilet paper hair rollers ever be the rage? slew of Panamanian cousins that also got into the apparel industry. Never Legal: This jean brand is by far my favorite. A knock-off of the Ralph Lauren logo, it is especially popular among the prepubescent girls I see strutting their stuff in the Discotecas. Well my friends, we must accept reality. You can not find classy clothes on Avenida Central. And our living allowances do not grant us access to the ShanGri La that is the Multicentro. They don’t want us hairy/stinky/ skin-infected volunteers crashing the model searches that they have going on there. So what is a volunteer to do? One must look for the best of the worst. The following is a list of the best cheap-o brands that merit consideration- either for quality or creative names. Look for them in an Almacén nearest you: BR/Nanna Republic: This is presumably owned by the same parent company of knock-off The Gup, and All Navy. D.E.I. (Derrieres International) : Girls who may be familiar with l.e.i. jeans will be happy to know that these are the the second best thing, at half the price. Complete with butt-hugging strech Añil Spum: Jacobo found this soap brand, which he claims is pronounced “anal spum”. Añil is the non-clorox whitening agent that works wonders on clothes. Tamy/Tony/Toby Sport: I know everyone has at least one of their shirts. Apparently Tommy Hilfiger has a N/X (Natural Exchange): One step down from the Armani Exchange clothing line, they boast “natural style” in synthetic fabrics and loud colors. foto por Jake McCleland Joysport/Juansport: Who knew that they would give Jansport back packs a run for their money? Veraguas celeb Kevin Stevens was seen sporting one of these on his way to truck through the central Americas. Cozzi: Although these women’s jeans also have a high spandex content, how “cozy” can they be if the seams are bursting at the thighs and booty? Addidam: Just as fashionable as Addidas sneakers, but they have an extra stripe down the side for good luck. [email protected] 41 La Vaina Volunteers Speak Out What do you think of the office move to Ciudad de Saber in Miraflores? “Well, we’re 273 blocks further from Elite II, but I’m sure there are some advantages to the new location.” -Jonathon Fazzola, Meteti, Darién “Well at least we’ll be closer to the new Country Director’s house.” - Peter Redmond, PTO “I go there to shop, dine, and hang out anyway so this will be super convenient for me. Oh wait, I’m thinking of the current office location.” ~ “What? Are you saying that I can’t blow? My cheeks are sore from all the blowing I’ve done.” -Katie Skaar, while inflating ballons for a party “I hate the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition because there are no articles.” - John Nangle “I became a La Vaina Editor so none of the stupid things I say would get into the Quotes section.” - Dave Belt A Letter to the Editors - Loretta Collins, Pal Mar Coclé “I call top bunk.!” por Anonymous - Manuela McDonougha, Escobal, Colon “What? I thought Jean said “Ciudad de Tomar”.” - Patricia Greenberg, San Pedro, Coclé 42 ~ A helpful tip about attributing photo credits: If somebody appears in a photo, that means they most likely didn’t take it. For instance, in the last issue of La Vaina, I found at least seven instances of photo credits given to people that appear in the picture, including one of myself. Let’s face it, there are well over 5 billion people in the world, and I am the only one that could not have taken that photo (and then submit such a nasty picture of myself, as well). I would expect so much from Dave; he’s the guy that unplugged my fridge when I was on vacation and everything rotted. But Joel? That must have been a criminal case of senioritis. Sloppy work, boys. I’m disappointed to see that two years after I drug La Vaina out of the mire and helped turn it from third-rate toilet paper into a somewhat readable publication that its main service may once again be in a latrine. “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.” April - June 2005 La Vaina Richard Hall Editor La Vaina newsletter Peace Corps/Panama 2004-2005 [email protected] 43 La Vaina La Vaina 44 “The toughest newsletter you’ll ever love.”
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