DEEP2012 May June Ch1 p01_11 v6.indd

Transcription

SPECIAL EDITION
2012 Swimsuit Issue
Ernie Brooks Photo Essay
DEEPZINE.COM
Recent Spring Swell
May/June 2012 • Volume 7 / No. 3
Trippin’ On Ice / Brewer
FREE
Unnatural
selection
The all-new acid tortoise frogskins
®
©2012 Oakley, Inc. 800.320.9430
AVAILABLE AT VAL SURF CENTRAL COAST SURFBOARDS BEACH HOUSE
INSPIRED BY VANS HERITAGE AND BASED ON CLASSIC LINES, INNOVATIVE MATERIALS, AND TIMELESS STYLE
PURCHASE A PAIR OF VANS BOARDSHORTS AND RECEIVE A FREE CUSTOM T-SHIRT EXCLUSIVELY AT:
JACKS-DANA POINT, JACKS-HUNTINGTON BEACH, JACKS-LOS ANGELES, PANCHOS-PISMO BEACH
RUSSO
Arbor Ad
DANE GUDAUSKAS / THE ERA CLASSIC
V A N S .COM / APPAREL
2012©
VANS,
INC.
A delicate sun-up glow.
Gaviota Coast. JIM MARTIN
COVER SHOT
Rather than bracing for the water, you embrace it here
in the Maldives. Mary Osborne heads to surf a North
Maldive Atoll right-hander.
Photo by David Pu’u
YOUR SURFMAG
EL DIRECTOR:
Andres Nuño
EDITOR:
Chuck Graham
GRAPHIC DESIGN:
Danielle Siano
Zack Paul (Swimsuit Issue)
PHOTO CORRECTION:
David Levine
SALES:
[email protected]
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:
Jim Brewer
Craig Comen
Derek Dodds
Glenn Dubock
Chuck Graham
Dan Hamlin
Michael Kew
Nicole de Leon
L. Paul Mann
Katie McLean
Kara Petersen
David Pu’u
Ryan Richardson
Ryan A. Smith
Shawn Tracht
Mike Vavak
CONTRIBUTING
PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Balzer
Kenny Backer
Jim Brewer
Ernie Brooks
Fran Collin
Kristine Cramer
Derek Dodds
Glenn Dubock
James Fortman
Bethany Frankhauser
Chuck Graham
Lori Graham
Randall Hamilton
Michael Kew
Traci Kimball
Brent Lieberman
L. Paul Mann
Jim Martin
Karon Pardue
Nick Presniakov
Jason Rath
Matty Schweitzer
Kyle Sparks
David Pu’u
Gretchen Soares
Jon Shafer
Ryan A. Smith
Bill Tover
Shawn Tracht
ASP / Kirstin
SUPPORTING STAFF:
Lea Boyd
Peter Dugré
Erin Lennon
Kristyn Whittenton
DEEP Surf Magazine
Twitter@DEEPSurfMag
6
DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012
PUBLISHER:
Michael VanStry
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER:
Gary L. Dobbins
GENERAL INQUIRIES
& SUBMISSIONS:
[email protected]
Owned and Operated by
RMG Ventures, LLC
Carpinteria, CA
Tel: 805.684.4428
WWW.DEEPZINE.COM
Experience the feeling!!!
shape your
own board!
“SURFBOARD SHAPING 101”
with Mr. Douglas Yartz
i
your one stop surf shop.
Serving Goleta for over 14 years.
In-House Shaping Bay
“You Draw It, You Shape It, You Ride It!”
shape your own board IS EASY!
boards starting at just $400
includes blank, glassing, fins & tools
call to reserve OR FOR MORE INFO!
(805) 683-4450
Open mon-sat, 10-7p • Sunday, 10-5P • 109 S. Fairview Ave., Goleta • (805) 683-4450 • surfcountry.net
Serving all of your Real Estate needs throughout Santa Barbara County
Gabe Venturelli has you covered from Rincon to the Ranch...
• Calm Negotiations & Peaceful Sales
• Residential & Income Property
• 1st Time Home Buyer Incentives
• Free Seller Consultations
• Bank Owned (REO) Insight
• Mountain Hideaways to Fine Estates
• City Condos to Beach Bungalows
• Real Estate for Community & Beyond
Gabe Venturelli
Helping to Preserve Santa Barbara’s Open Lands One Sale at a Time
Local Knowledge &
Professional Results Since 2001
(805) 680-5141
3% of Gabe’s Profits are dedicated to protecting the Gaviota Coast,
San Marcos Foothills, Carpinteria Bluffs, Local Agriculture, and more.
PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET
[email protected]
gabeventurelli.com • Lic #01323000
DESIGNED & SURFED BY
KS11
11 x World Champion
komunityproject.com
ULTIMATE SURF HARDWARE
24
44
Letter from the Editor �� 10
News�� 12,13
Ladies Room �� 14
View from the Hill �� 16
Board Trachting
Progressive Surfboards �� 17
Tidelines �� 18
Northern Exposure �� 20
ernie brooks
48
michael kew
56
What’s Your Komunity Project �� 22
Comen Sense �� 28
Product Reviews �� 42
Surf Shop Down Low
Homegrown Surf Shop �� 52
Surf Camp Listings �� 54
DEEP Celebration �� 60
Music & Entertainment �� 64
Green Room �� 66
dubock.com
Final Frames �� 68, 70
FEaturEs
lEttEr to thE Editor
24
Dear DEEP Surf Magazine,
ErniE Brooks Photo Essay Story and Photos by Chuck Graham
Ernie Brooks, the son of Ernest H. Brooks the founder of Brooks Institute of Photography, has
devoted his entire professional life to capturing images of pelagic ecosystems in every ocean
round the globe. DEEP shows you a glimpse of his black and white photography.
44 a Palikir Pass yarn Story by Michael Kew
Globetrotter Michael Kew takes us to Pohnpei, a primordial tropical island that is part of the
Senyavin Islands in the West Pacific. Only 13 miles wide, Pohnpei offers dynamite surf around
the island during all seasons.
48 rEcEnt sPring swEll
Photos by Dubock.com, Brent Lieberman, L. Paul Mann, Bill Tover
A later winter swell surprised us this spring. DEEP photographers along the Santa Barbara
Coast were on top of the swell and this is what they captured.
56
triPPin’ on icE Story and photos by Jim Brewer
Avid SUP rider, and Blueline Paddle Surf owner Jim Brewer, heads to Iceland to find untouched
waves. On an un-guided adventure, he comes across a volcano eruption, paddles through icy
rivers and finds perfect corduroy lines peeling off a cobblestone point break.
8
jim brewer
I feel compelled to compliment you for this fine
Green Issue (March/April 2012). I thought the
article by Craig Comen (“To Be Green Or To Not
Be Green,” Comen Sense) was particularly on the
money and bold for it pointing out, among other
things, that traveling all over the planet to surf or for
any other reason is not oh so green. All the writers
did a great job in expressing that the world’s oceans
are precious.
Thanks for putting this important information out
there.
Sincerely,
STEvEN FAlCONEr, ventura
DEEP Surf Magazine welcomes your letters.
Send your Letters to the Editor to [email protected].
Lori Graham
letter FroM the eDitor
May/June 2012 Volume 7, Issue 3
DEEP columnist Nicole de Leon wrote
an interesting perspective for this issue’s Ladies
Room about crowded lineups, getting along, and
less experienced surfers in the lineup, always a hot
topic when it rises to the surface.
There are more surfers now than ever before,
with a dizzying amount of board shapes and
designs to choose from. Couple that with a lot
of inexperienced people in the water, a host of
Internet forecasts, and cell phones going off and
tempers are undoubtedly going to flare.
There’s no criteria out there dictating the level
of experience required for each surf spot, so it’s
up to each one of us to police ourselves by taking
a look in the mirror and asking ourselves should
I be paddling out? Unfortunately a lot of surfers who should answer that question with a “no”
simply brush off the responsibility.
There are lots of surf spots out there, a lot of
good point and reef breaks to choose from, but
that’s not an invitation for the inexperienced to
paddle out into the lineup.
With that being said, summer has always been
the season to learn how to surf, when getting your
feet wet is the pun intended. Keep it fun and keep
it real, and remember you’re not the only one in
the lineup.
BiLL Tover
Enjoy.
Chuck Graham
Who’s on BoarD?
DaviD Pu’u
Photographer
David Pu’u is a photographer, cinematographer,
and writer-director based in Ventura. He has a
background in competitive athletics, and has
competed nationally and internationally at an elite
or professional level in a variety of sports. His still
photography appears in editorial publications
around the world and is used as the foundation
for brand image development. He is a senior staff
photographer and regularly published author for
many publications. View his work at www.davidpuu.
com or www.corbis.com, keyword: David Pu’u.
Fran collin
Photographer
Fran Collin is a photographer living in Carpinteria who loves the people that love the ocean, and
especially everything edible that lives in it!
10
DEEP suRF mAGAZinE May/June 2012
JaMes FortMan
Photographer
Santa Barbara native James Fortman has been
dabbling in surf photography since junior high when
he graduated from disposable underwater cameras
to a Minolta Weathermatic. These days, equipped
with a digital camera, telephoto lens, and SPL water
housing, he splits his time between Rincon and other
points to the west.
JiM BreWer
Photographer
Jim Brewer is the founder/owner of Blueline Paddlesurf in Santa Barbara. Jim splits his time between
surfing with his two young boys locally and traveling
the world searching for exotic surf locations to photograph. “My style of photography is documentary. I
want what my eyes see to come across in my photos
exactly the same with no added postproduction bells
and whistles. It’s all about being at the right place at
the right time and capturing what is real.”
Got the Travel Bug?
With this Coupon,
you will receive
20% OFF
$Q\3XUFKDVH
up to $100
Limit one coupon per customer.
No double discounts.
ALL STAND UP
PADDLE BOARDS
$999
ction
For the BESTiess,ehileking
avel accessor
of Tr
nts, packs
boots, clothing, te
00
imbing
sleeping bags, cl
r racks.
equipment and ca
Come to Mountain
Air.
FREE INSTALLATION !
Our Boards
are made
with the
BEST QUALITY
materials available.
For full
details visit
wavefrontsurfshop.com
CARBONlBERPADDLES
Photo: Patagonia, Koreski
SANTA BARBARA
14 STATE STREET
962-0049
Mon-Thurs and Sat 10-6
Fri 10-7, Sun 11-5
$WWKH%HDFK)UHH3DUNLQJ
SAN LUIS OBISPO
667 MARSH STREET
543-1676
MON-SAT 10 - 6
THURS 10 - 8, SUN 11- 4
Corner of Broad & Marsh
ZZZPRXQWDLQDLUVSRUWVFRP
Locally owned and Operated for over 30 years!
FREE Board Bag
w/purchase of
SUP Board and Paddle
OfferVALIDTHROUGH
VALUE-USTMENTIONTHISAD
%4HOMPSON"LVD6ENTURAs
News
Gold coast carve. ASP / KirStin
Hitting
the Road
Story and Photo by Chuck Graham
Off and
Running
Conner Coffin won his first professional event at the
North Shore Surf Shop Pipe Pro. ASP / KirStin
By Chuck Graham
A
fter the first two ASP World
Championship Tour events in
Australia, consistency has been the
formula for maintaining the ratings’
lead. No big surprise 11-time world champ Kelly
Slater finds himself in familiar territory at the top
of the charts despite not winning a single event
in Australia. He finished =5th at the Quiksilver
Pro at Snapper Rocks and 2nd behind Australian
Mick Fanning in the final at the Rip Curl Pro at
Bells Beach.
On the women’s side of things they’ve completed three events, the TSB Bank NZ Surf Festival featuring the Dow AgroSciences Pro along the
Taranaki Coast, New Zealand the most recent.
TUE 01
6:11 3.92
12:36 0.51
WED 02
7:13
1:17
4.1
0.55
THU 03
8:09
1:56
4.25
0.65
MAY 2012 Tide Chart
Ventura, CA
12
DeeP SUrf MAGAZINe May/June 2012
FRI 04
9:01
2:36
4.32
0.81
SAT 05
9:54
3:17
4.3
1.02
Young upstarts Lakey Peterson and Sage Erickson have their hands full, finding the women’s
elite tour more of a challenge. As it stands right
now, Peterson is gradually progressing, finishing =9th, =5th and =3rd in the first three events.
Peterson is currently 6th on the ratings. Ventura
local Erickson is near the bottom of the ratings at
=14th. Her best result is a =9th in New Zealand.
At this point Erickson may need to requalify
through the Women’s Star Events to remain on
the women’s elite tour. She is currently rated 8th
on the Women’s World Ranking.
In the Junior Men’s Events, Santa Barbara local Conner Coffin continues his steady climb. He
recently finished 4th overall in the Vans Pro
Junior at Huntington Beach and is currently tied
for 7th on the Junior Men’s World Ranking.
SUN 06
10:46 4.17
3:59 1.27
MON 07
11:41 3.99
4:44 1.57
TUE 08
6:13 -1.47
12:41 3.8
WED 09
7:09
1:47
-1.14
3.67
THU10
8:09
3:00
-0.71
3.69
Tom Brown, a.k.a. Mr. Surf Junk (www.
mrsurfjunk.com) has battled stage IV colon
cancer since December 2008, and has made
it his mission to bring cancer awareness to
the surfing community.
Overwhelmed by the support and love of
his family and friends, Brown wanted to give
something back, and he’s doing it through
his Surfing for Life Foundation. With a $10
donation you receive three Surfing for Life
wristbands that are now being worn by
surfers around the world. All proceeds go
toward charities devoted to fighting cancer.
“The sole purpose is to spread the word
about cancer education and bring awareness
to the surfing community,” said Brown.
Surf shops up and down the coast have
been strong supporters of Brown’s foundation
with each shop matching every sale with a
$1 charity. Adding to that list of surf shops,
Brown recently returned from France and
the U.K. spreading cancer awareness with
several surf shops
now carrying his
wristbands.
One wristband
at a time.
The Surfing for
Life Foundation
can be reached at
(805) 331-3063 or
by visiting www.
surfingforlife.
org. Find them on
Facebook too.
tom Brown spearheading
his charge against cancer.
FRI 11
9:13
4:13
-0.29
3.86
SAT 12
SUN 13
MON 14
TUE 15
10:17 0.09
5:14 4.15
11:16 0.41
6:03 4.46
5:48 3.66
12:07 0.7
6:56 3.6
12:50 0.97
WSURF.COM TIDE CHART
News
crowd pleaser at Esteem Surf co., Pismo Beach.
at Surf country in Goleta with wetsuit winner.
J7 Surf boards raging in SB. Photos by balzer.
California 1nvasion
Local Filmmakers Win Big
Story by Mike Vavak
By Ryan Richardson
O
n March 10, Sundance Beach
presented its fifth annual Surf
Video Contest at the Lobero
Theatre in Santa Barbara. Since
its humble beginnings inside Sundance’s retail
store in Goleta, the contest has steadily grown
in popularity. “This year’s videos featured the
best quality of surfing we have seen yet, and the
capacity crowd of nearly 500 were stoked to see
some sick surfing action on the big screen,” said
Kimberly Wilson.
As the doors opened and the event got underway, emcees Preston Berk and Chris Garcia got
the crowd fired up and tossed out giveaways. The
top 10 videos were then screened much to the
crowd’s delight.
Winners for the night included “Krooked
Horizons” by Dana Bladzikowski for Best Surfing Footage; “What Is This” by Adam Lambert,
Owen Scheid and Chris Riel was a double winner
for the Best Cinematography and Best Overall;
“A Thousand Colors” by Luc Blanchou won Most
Original Film; “The Ricks” by Seth de Roulet was
Best Overall second runner-up; and “The Queen”
In an era when companies focus heavily
on social media, Body Glove went grassroots
and hit the road for its California 1nvasion.
The California 1nvasion’s Episode 1 (L.A.
to S.F.) took place February 18 to 24. Team
riders Jamie O’Brien (JOB), Alex Gray, Nate
Yeomans, Cheyne Magnuson, and Anthony
Walsh piled into the Body Glove RV to share
some good times and spread the love. The
tour started in Body Glove’s hometown of
Hermosa Beach with events at Spyder Surfboards and Dive N Surf.
The California 1nvasion’s first stop on
the Central Coast was J7 Surfboards in
Santa Barbara’s “Funk Zone.” J7 got the
party started early, and the BG crew was
greeted by groms, hometown heroes, local
pros, and BG’s latest rider, Demi Boelsterli.
Having to move on to their next stop, the
BG crew bid farewell to J7 and moved onto
Goleta’s Surf Country.
Another eager crowd, including the Dos
Pueblos High School surf team was on hand,
along with visitors from Japan and Germany,
making it an international affair.
Surf Country owner Doug Yartz manned
the barbecue and the BG team raffled off
more items.
The tour then made its way up to Esteem in
Pismo Beach where the BG crew threw an epic
pizza party. . JOB and local groms spent the
evening skateboarding, while the rest of the
team shared stories of its winter in Hawaii.
The Body Glove CALIFORNIA 1NVASION
Episode 2 (O.C. to S.D.) will happen this summer. Visit www.bodyglove.com for dates.
by Andrew Schoener was the Best Overall first
runner-up.
Each winner received a cash prize, a Sundance
Beach gift certificate, and a huge prize pack of
apparel and surf equipment.
After the show, everyone strolled to the back
patio for an after-party. To the delight of the partygoers, the after-party was sponsored by Figueroa
Mountain Brewery and catered by L&L Barbeque. The cool sounds of The Fire Department
played throughout the night as everyone danced
and laughed the night away until eventually heading to the after-after-party at Sandbar.
“We look forward to producing an even bigger
and better event for the 2013 Surf Video Contest and hope to see you there next year!” added
Wilson.
After the contest was held, viewers logged into
Sundance Beach’s Facebook page and voted on
one final winner. The Viewers Choice award went
to “Wet Floors” by Paul Vallone.
Visit www.sundancebeach.com/blog to view all of
the winner’s surf films.
From left: Best Surfing Footage winner Dan Bladzikowkski. / Most original winner Luc Blanchou. / Best Overall
and Best cinematography winners chris riel, Owen Scheid and adam Lambert. Photos by kristine Cramer
WED 16
7:52
1:27
3.58
1.22
THU 17
8:38
1:58
3.58
1.45
FRI 18
9:20
2:28
3.57
1.64
SAT 19
9:58
2:56
3.54
1.8
SUN 20
MON 21
TUE 22
WED 23
10:35 3.49
3:24 1.94
11:12 3.43
3:53 2.09
11:52 3.35
4:23 2.24
12:36 3.29
4:57 2.41
WETSAND SURF SHOP
THU 24
6:41
1:25
-0.25
3.27
FRI 25
7:23
2:20
-0.06
3.33
SAT 26
SUN 27
MON 28
TUE 29
WED 30
8:09
3:16
8:59
4:07
9:52
4:52
10:46 0.85
5:33 4.69
11:38 1.05
6:13 5.24
0.16
3.51
446 E. MAIN STREET VENTURA
Not to be used for navigation.
Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.
0.39
3.8
0.63
4.2
MAY 2012 Tide Chart
Ventura, CA
w w w.DEEPzinE.cOM
13
Ladies room
Get Off of My Cloud
By Nicole de Leon
T
he other day while I was driving I saw a man with two
children in the back seat of his car make an obscene gesture to a
slower driver. I couldn’t decide if I should laugh at his ridiculous
aggression or shake my head in dismay. Later that same day,
I found myself in the water at a well-known point where the tension
and aggression was incongruent to the beautiful day and conditions.
Suspicious peripheral glances, furrowed brows and “up the beach”
groveling for position was the scene in the lineup.
The parallel between aggressive drivers and aggressive surfers was very
apparent to me in that moment. Many of us in the water hold respectable jobs, are responsible parents, have good friends and good lives, and
here we are barking at each other and trying to out-paddle each other to
maintain position. I can’t help but wonder if this gift that we call the ocean
is actually becoming a venue for ego-driven aggression. Where do we draw
the line between how we behave in the water versus how we behave as empathetic humans? When did a smile in the water on a crowded day become
a sign of weakness?
People argue that the growing popularity and Internet accessibility of
surf reports has clearly affected the congestion in our local lineups. This
very well could be true. So the question is how do we navigate these
scenarios safely? Can we trust ourselves to act in accordance to the often
agreed-upon idea that the ocean is our “church” and still manage fun and
S U R F R I D E R F O U N DAT I O N S A N TA B A R B A R A C H A P T E R
Photo by Tom Modugno
WORKING WITH YOU FOR 20 YEARS TO
PROTECT OUR LOCAL BEACHES AND
COASTLINE 1992�2012
August Chapter Mixer - August 16:
Tom Modugno/Goleta Surfing- Surf Slide
presentation in/ around Goleta and the Gaviota Coast
• 7:00 pm @ Watershed Resource Center, Arroyo
Burro Beach (next to the Boathouse), 2981 Cliff
Drive, Santa Barbara
2012 Mixer Schedule-Third Thursday of every other
month. April 19, June 21, August 16, October 18.
• FREE Chapter t-shirts to anyone who joins or
renews membership at the mixers
• All ages welcome
14
Check out our NEW & IMPROVED
website for upcoming event
listings or to sign up on our
monthly e-newsletter
www.santabarbara.surfrider.org
Can’t we all just get along? L. PauL Mann
safe surf sessions?
Factors such as beginner surfers out on crowded days without control of
their equipment provide us with even more challenges. Serious dangers
clearly exist in the water when giant boards fly around like unguided missiles. Take local surfer and Patagonia employee Cyrus Michael Castella for
instance.
Back in January, on one of the most playful overhead and crowded days
at Pipes, Castella was nailed in the side of the face by a long board that had
been hastily ditched by another surfer, leaving Castella facedown and unconscious under water. Luckily, there was a surfer within range that noticed
that Castella was unresponsive and quickly called for others to help. The
quick reaction times of empathetic fellow surfers, turned out to be a lifesaver—literally. Notwithstanding the quick reaction of nearby surfers, Castella
sustained a broken cheek, a concussion and had to have 27 stitches under
his left eye. The surfer who let his board fly likely had no clue that his negligence would result in an all-night ER experience and month-long recovery
time for the victim. Thank goodness that others’ humanity shone, and five
people chose not to ignore their duties as fellow surfers.
What is telling about Castella’s character is that he did not turn towards
aggression and retaliation after this incident. Rather, he calmly spoke
about the incident and how educating beginners on the dangers in the
lineup and the most basic rules of surfing, like “not to ditch your board” is
of the utmost importance. Castella stated, “When you go skiing, the runs
are clearly rated in terms of experience level. You cannot rate the ocean
that easily, which is why this is such a tough topic.” This young man, after
sustaining life-threatening injuries that kept him out of the water for over a
month, exemplifies patience and empathy. He believes paddling calmly up
to a dangerous surfer to explain the problem is more effective than yelling
at the culprit. Castella reiterates that navigating the lineup is a practice in
patience and survival. Clearly, preliminary communication can be a virtue
in these scenarios before lives are endangered.
Of course, there are still some sweet spots where one can surf uncrowded waves with good friends. The issue is not that surfing has become
a wholesale cesspool of negativity and danger. Rather, the issue is when
those factors arise, how can we shift the energy in a more positive direction? It may sound like hippy jargon, but I do remember a time when
doing good things for one another, waiting patiently for a slow driver, giving someone advice gently and refraining from paddling around another
surfer even if we know we could easily do so, was held in higher regard
than battling for the “wave of the day.”
View From The Hill
The Surfbeat Galerie
Clockwise: surf beat’s front room. / artist Ricky Brotini
prepares for a live performance. / Co-owners seth de
Roulet and oliver Parker sit outside surf beat galerie.
A dialogue led by Ryan A. Smith / Photos by Seth de Roulet
Five months ago, a funky little space in Santa Barbara was whimsically
transformed from a makeshift storage facility into two surfers’ take on a
youthful art gallery. DEEP sat down with gallery owner Oliver Parker and his
business partner, Seth de Roulet, to get the skinny behind their new venture.
DEEP: What are your day jobs?
Seth de Roulet: I shoot surf and architectural photography.
Oliver Parker: I guess I’d say I’m a private chef and a pro surfer.
DEEP: Where’ d the gallery idea come from?
SR: It’s a gallery, but it’s also a communal spot to come hang out, have a beer,
meet up with people, and enjoy art.
OP: Art is just another thing I have a long, deep appreciation for. My grandfather was an artist, my mom’s an artist; I’ve spent time doing art and graphic
design, and I consider surfing as well as cooking forms of art.
DEEP: How’ d you find this space, and where is it?
SR: It’s at 22 Anacapa Street #5, in the old Diver’s Den building, behind Municipal Winery.
OP: I moved from San Francisco back to Santa Barbara and found the space. I
didn’t really know what I wanted to do with it, but I knew the space was awesome and it needed to be something.
SR: I think, because we knew so many artistic people, that it kind of just naturally happened. We knew if we did this that we would have interest.
OP: In the community there’s nothing like it. There’s no forum for surf artists
to show their work, for the younger people, especially. And there’re no galleries
in the funk zone, so it’s kind of a first.
16
DeeP sURF magaZine May/June 2012
DEEP: How did it start?
SR: I was hanging out with Oliver one night, and my friend called and asked,
“Hey, I’m looking for a place to play music in Santa Barbara. Do you know
a spot?” And Oliver just said, “Well, I have space, we just need to move some
furniture out of it.”
OP: And I said to Seth, “Let’s turn it into something. Why don’t you show
your photos and let’s just see what happens?” That was the first show, and it was
pretty awesome.
SR: It was six days of painting and hanging lights and moving furniture.
OP: I had painted the sign first, a while back. That’s kind of what happened. I
painted the sign and wrote “Galerie” on there, and I thought, “Huh.”
SR: This was before I was even involved.
OP: I thought, “Well, there’s the sign, so maybe we should turn it into a gallery.”
DEEP: So you had the no-plan plan?
SR: It’s been interesting, because we never really had a plan to start. It’s just
happened organically, and I still don’t know if we have a plan. We keep going
month to month, and...
OP: …it’s progressed. We’ve just let it happen. It’s been a little loose in the past.
From this time forward, though, Surfbeat should be open during the same
hours as Art Walk, and also open by appointment.
SR: The plan is to be open on weekends. And we are trying to open a new show
at the beginning of every month. Hopefully, we’re going to be moving toward
doing First Thursdays in Santa Barbara, too.
OP: Being a part of the First Thursdays thing is going to be good, because that
is something that’s developed, it’s now in cities everywhere. It’s a way to open
galleries up and bring people out.
View From The Hill
View From The Hill
DEEP: Is Surfbeat only for “surf art” and surfers who make art?
OP: For now, there has to be some element of surf to it.
SR: I think it has to be surfer influenced, but I don’t think it’s necessarily surf
art; sometimes it’s just surfers who make art, and their art can be very far from
surfing. It kind of keeps that common theme.
DEEP: It seems the events have been a cool, loose, communal mix of surfers,
shapers, all sorts of artists, and people that appreciate art.
SR: In just four months, we’ve already had Shawn Stüssy in there, Jeff Divine
hang work, Russell Crotty, and those are pretty big people to get onboard right
at the beginning. Everyone was just really into supporting the cause.
OP: Without the support, it would have died by now. After the first show, we
were really stoked. It’s been all the people, the community, that say, “This is
amazing, we want this. Keep doing it!”
SR: Another thing is, the Command Z screen-printing business is right next to
Surfbeat, and they have a big following. So, coordinating shows with Command Z has allowed for this cross-pollination, where their people, who aren’t
necessarily surfers, come around and mingle with our group to bring these two
separate art worlds together. It’s been pretty seamless.
The Surfbeat Galerie
Clockwise: surf beat’s front room. / artist Ricky Brotini
prepares for a live performance. / Co-owners seth de
Roulet and oliver Parker sit outside surf beat galerie.
A dialogue led by Ryan A. Smith / Photos by Seth Roulet
Five months ago, a funky little space in Santa Barbara was whimsically
transformed from a makeshift storage facility into two surfers’ take on a
youthful art gallery. DEEP sat down with gallery owner Oliver Parker and his
business partner, Seth de Roulet, to get the skinny behind their new venture.
DEEP: What are your day jobs?
Seth de Roulet: I shoot surf and architectural photography.
Oliver Parker: I guess I’d say I’m a private chef and a pro surfer.
DEEP: Where’ d the gallery idea come from?
SR: It’s a gallery, but it’s also a communal spot to come hang out, have a beer,
meet up with people, and enjoy art.
OP: Art is just another thing I have a long, deep appreciation for. My grandfather was an artist, my mom’s an artist; I’ve spent time doing art and graphic
design, and I consider surfing as well as cooking forms of art.
DEEP: How’ d you find this space, and where is it?
SR: It’s at 22 Anacapa Street #5, in the old Diver’s Den building, behind Municipal Winery.
OP: I moved from San Francisco back to Santa Barbara and found the space. I
didn’t really know what I wanted to do with it, but I knew the space was awesome and it needed to be something.
SR: I think, because we knew so many artistic people, that it kind of just naturally happened. We knew if we did this that we would have interest.
OP: In the community there’s nothing like it. There’s no forum for surf artists
to show their work, for the younger people, especially. And there’re no galleries
in the funk zone, so it’s kind of a first.
16
DeeP sURF magaZine May/June 2012
DEEP: How did it start?
SR: I was hanging out with Oliver one night, and my friend called and asked,
“Hey, I’m looking for a place to play music in Santa Barbara. Do you know
a spot?” And Oliver just said, “Well, I have space, we just need to move some
furniture out of it.”
OP: And I said to Seth, “Let’s turn it into something. Why don’t you show
your photos and let’s just see what happens?” That was the first show, and it was
pretty awesome.
SR: It was six days of painting and hanging lights and moving furniture.
OP: I had painted the sign first, a while back. That’s kind of what happened. I
painted the sign and wrote “Galerie” on there, and I thought, “Huh.”
SR: This was before I was even involved.
OP: I thought, “Well, there’s the sign, so maybe we should turn it into a gallery.”
DEEP: So you had the no-plan plan?
SR: It’s been interesting, because we never really had a plan to start. It’s just
happened organically, and I still don’t know if we have a plan. We keep going
month to month, and...
OP: …it’s progressed. We’ve just let it happen. It’s been a little loose in the past.
From this time forward, though, Surfbeat should be open during the same
hours as Art Walk, and also open by appointment.
SR: The plan is to be open on weekends. And we are trying to open a new show
at the beginning of every month. Hopefully, we’re going to be moving toward
doing First Thursdays in Santa Barbara, too.
OP: Being a part of the First Thursdays thing is going to be good, because that
is something that’s developed, it’s now in cities everywhere. It’s a way to open
galleries up and bring people out.
DEEP: What has Surfbeat shown so far?
SR: The first show was one I did in December 2011, which was my trip to Africa. Then we did a second show of just my surf work, a winter 2011 surf recap.
OP: That was a good one.
SR: Then we did the group show, which was Travers Adler, Will Adler, Demi
Boelsterli, Bummy Koepenick, Stüssy, Divine, Russell, and some others, which
was really cool. Then Italian painter Riccardo Brotini, who did live art in his
opening show, which was really inspiring. He produced Rick Griffin’s sperm.
OP: [Laughs.] Yeah, right? That was great.
SR: I was really disappointed more people didn’t come out for that show
because it was maybe my favorite one yet. But it did bring out a lot of older
shapers, like Brian Hilbers and Wayne Rich and all those guys.
DEEP: What’s coming up next?
SR: Two upcoming shows this summer will be art by Tyler Warren and then
Shawn “Barney” Barron.
OP: I’d like to expand and spread the concept to other cities, other coastal communities around the world. If we could develop a format…
SR: …it’d be cool to have traveling shows. Have one show pass through six galleries in all different places.
OP: I’d like to do some special dinner parties in the middle of the gallery and
have some gourmet, beautiful, four-course dinners, so I could incorporate some
of my cooking and still have the art exhibited. That could be really fun.
SR: I’m going to do another show, for sure. There also might be some plein-air
painters doing May.
OP: We always have our eyes and ears open. We’ve talked about even having
shapers show their boards, fine art surfboards, and that’s definitely coming in
the future. And another thing we want to do is have some art book signings.
Michael Kew’s “Crossings” book signing was the first. But also some fine art
books, like coffee-table type books.
45"5 & 45 3 & & 5 4 " / 5" # " 3 # " 3 " $ " ]"3#03$0--&$5*7&$0.
DEEP: Are you happy with the way it’s gone so far?
OP: Being a new gallery and not exactly knowing what we’re doing, and being
in the funk zone, has been very cool for me. To see paintings hung next to each
other by an artist who’s shown around the world for 30 years aside an artist
who’s never had a part in a show before … I love that, I think that’s great.
w w w.DeePZine.Com
17
Tidelines
The Santa Barbara
Stubbie Redux
From left:
Travers Adler with
his Stubbie. / 6’7”
stubbie shaped by
Gregg Tally.
Story and Photos by Michael Kew
Y
OU’VE HEARD of
George Greenough.
Of his eccentricity and
innovations of surfboard
design. Of his sharp spear that
was the shortboard revolution. He
is, in the words of Paul Gross, “the
living personification of surfing’s
evolution … beyond the scope of
mere legend.”
Legend began in 1966 via Santa
Barbara’s first Wilderness Surfboards shop, located inside an ice
factory on Cabrillo Boulevard. In
1970 the shop was moved to 317
South Alisos Street, where Wilderness lived until 2010, when it was
brutally bulldozed for a freewaywidening project.
Last December, for Santa Barbara
shapers Gregg Tally (of White Owl
Surfboards) and Ryan Lovelace, a
blessing surfaced from the wreckage.
“In the Rincon parking lot,” Lovelace said, “I complimented a fellow
on the White Owl sticker that graced
his car’s rear window. He introduced
himself as Cenen and told me he’d
checked out my blog off and on for
quite a while, and he was stoked on
my work. He also told me he was
the handler of a trio of templates
saved from the Wilderness Shop’s
demolition, and said I should take a
Custom
Shapes
by
Legendary
Shapers
Malcolm
Campbell
Wayne Rich
Robert Weiner
Bill “Blinky”
Hubina
(shop owner)
Over 700 New
& Used Boards
Ventura Surf Shop
88 E. Thompson Blvd.
Ventura, 93001
Open Daily, 9-6
805.643.1062
1-866-WAX-IT-UP
venturasurfshop.com
18
look at them and, if I was interested,
make use of them. My ears perked
up, but when he showed them to
me, I almost lost it. Then I picked up
the phone.”
Tally, a Santa Barbara native
who’d grown up down the street from
Greenough, was first on the line.
“Apparently Cenen had been
involved in demolishing the Wilderness Shop and had found these
three templates behind a wall,” Tally
said. “Ryan brought them over and
we laid them out. They were full
templates made from tar paper, and
very deteriorated. The first two were
little guns, but when we opened up
the third one, I immediately saw
that it was a 6’7” stubbie. Then
when I got down to the tail and saw
Greenough’s old Santa Barbara
round-tail, I got goose bumps.”
“When I held that template,”
Lovelace said, “I tripped out knowing where it’d been and where it
slept for so long.”
Tally: “I’d say it is one of the
original—if not the original—stubbie
template from 1966 or 1967, when
Greenough and Michael Cundith
were working out of the old ice
factory (or maybe they were still up
at George’s parents’ house). They
took one of George’s early balsa
kneeboards and templated it, then
stretched it out, so it was basically a
long kneeboard that looked like a
short longboard.
“Those original stubbies were
single-fin displacement hulls that
evolved into having concaves and
chines, as well as a rounder tail and
a narrower nose. I recall watching guys like Richie West, Cundith,
Danny Hazard, and Shaun Claffey
(the best Santa Barbara surfer ever)
tear it up on stubbies at Rincon and
the Ranch.”
With this in mind, and the ancient
black piece of tar paper before
them, Lovelace and Tally grasped
the obvious: a duplicate Masonite
template was in order. The results?
As the owner of Tally’s first board
from said template, it has completely changed the way I approach
surfing—the sling-shot flex-fin drive
is all that matters.
“Made for speed and power and
maneuverability,” Tally said, “my
White Owl stubbie is a direct copy
off that old template. I’ve modernized the bottom contours a bit to a
rounded or barrel vee, with a very
soft chine and various flat areas and
pinched rails.”
“I find a lot of peace in using it in
place of some of my older templates,” Lovelace said. “The curves
fit a million different ways, and I’ve
only used it directly about four times.
I like tweaking it, using it as a 90percent base, and working the widepoint around to suit more modern
styles of hull-riding.”
In essence: Greenough, still a
barefooted genius, is a man to be
thanked and praised.
“I consider the ‘Santa Barbara
stubbie’ to be the start of 1967’s
shortboard revolution in the United
States,” Tally said, “and I consider
George to be the main innovator of
it all. Making these stubbies today
really energizes me and reminds
me of that youthful and exciting era
when shortboarding was the cutting
edge of surfing, and Santa Barbara
was leading the way.”
White Owl stubbies are sold
exclusively at the Beach House in
Santa Barbara.
For more information, email
[email protected].
Board Trachting
Shawn Tracht on a board that combines
perfect lift, speed and maneuverability.
PROGRESSIVE SURFBOARDS
JASON RATH
“Hot Rod”
By Shawn Tracht
I
F YOU’RE A SURFER, you probably know Dave
Johnson in some way or another. For God’s sake
he’s shaped over 30,000 surfboards and has been
a top competitor at the Rincon Classic in multiple
divisions for years. With a genuine stoke to be in the
surfing industry and still make surfboards after all those
years, Johnson is a guy who will give you more than just a
great board, he’ll also entertain you with surf stories that
are rooted in stoke all the way back to his grommet days.
SHAPER’S CONCEPT
The Hot Rod is the best all around shortboard I have
ever designed for Southern California. It evolved from
the small wave/fish side of the design spectrum, so it
excels in waves from 2-foot to 2-foot overhead. The
unexpected and pleasant surprise is that it is equally
effective in solid double overhead surf as well.
The two key ingredients are the extra wide tail and
the very deep concave that runs from the tip of the tail
all the way through the nose. These boards skim high
across the top of the water rather than plow through it,
and they catch the wave as far out as a board a foot longer. The Hot Rod planes so high it would be too loose if
not for the quad or “fiver” fin set up.
Small quad trailers allow for tail slide and break free
snap-cutty combos. Larger trailers turn it into a carving machine. With a quad plus a baby keel fin as a fifth
wheel, your knees will buckle before it spins out.
Unlike some designs—like the retro fish, displacement
hulls—where each design element relies so heavily on
the others that changing one thing can render the board
virtually useless, the Hot Rod is extremely variable. I can
modify any design element (width, thickness, rocker,
rails) to suit the needs or preferences of each individual
surfer. The result only enhances the Hot Rod’s performance, making it fun for me as a shaper to be creative
and continue to evolve my favorite all time design!
SURFER’S TAKE
Reducing drag is a key element to surfing as fast as you
can. Scientist years ago figured out how to reducing drag
of a moving object. One of them was Daniel Bernoulli
who published his “Bernoulli Principal,” in his book,
“Hydrodynamica,” in 1738. His theory discussed how
when water or air is moving through a pipe, the speed
of the water or air can be increased if the space it is
traveling through, the pipe, is narrowed at a particular
point. Basically, the water or air will be traveling at a
normal speed, and then when it hits the narrower part
of the pipe, all of the energy will be channeled through a
smaller opening, and when it shoots out the other side, it
will create more energy, which creates lift, reduces drag,
and helps increases speed, more or less.
In surfboard terminology, the narrowing of the pipe
would be similar to adding concave through the belly of
the surfboard. Therefore, the surfboard travels faster on
plane because Bernoulli’s Principal is in effect creating
lift, reducing drag, and helping increase velocity.
Most shapers add concave bottoms to modern shortboards, however, Johnson went to the extreme with the
concept. Usually when you hold a board in your hand,
down by your knees, you can see a very slight concave in
the board. With Johnson’s Hot Rod, it looks like someone
came through it with an ice cream scooper. The concave
is so deep it’s alarming to most surfers on the beach.
The benefits of this concave follow the idea of
Bernoulli’s Principal. The deeper the concave, the more
lift and less drag, equaling a faster board. From 2-foot
to overhead, and especially in smooth water conditions, this board travelled at a tremendous speed across
the water. With the addition of a wide, round tail and
curve in the rocker, the board combined quickness from
reduced drag and high performance surfing due to the
curve in the board.
Remember, flat equals fast and curve equals
performance.
Usually a flat bottom board will travel the fastest, yet
loses performance and maneuverability characteristics.
The Hot Rod uses science to get around needing the
board to be flat to go fast. Instead, the extremely deep
concave reduces drag while at the same time allows the
shaper to leave many other parts of the board curvy (the
rocker, the round wide tail, and the overall outline),
which keeps the board very performance oriented.
Dave Johnson with his favorite shortboard shape of
all time. SHAWN TRACHT
PROGRESSIVE SURFBOARDS
Shaper:
Dave Johnson
Board Shape/Design:
Hot Rod
How to Order:
2-3 in. shorter than normal board, a little
wider than normal board, 1/8 - 1/4 in.
thicker
This Board’s Specialty:
2 foot, to 2-foot overhead. Excels when it’s
glassy
Fins:
Tri, quad, or five fin
This board is perfect for:
Surfers who are looking for a board to surf
many conditions with performance
Surfboard Tester Shawn Tracht’s Normal
Shortboard:
5’10” x 18” x 2”
Tracht ordered this board:
5’7” x 18 5/8” x 2 1/8”
Shaper’s Contact info:
Phone: (805) 967-1340
Website: www.progressivesurfboards.com
Email: [email protected]
Surfer’s blog: www.surfwanderer.com
W W W.DEEPZINE.COM
19
Northern Exposure
Above: Nathaniel Soares up and riding.
Gretchen SoareS
Right: Ian Kimball breaking barriers.
traci Kimball
Project Surf Camp
By Dan Hamlin
J
ohn Taylor has always
been an athlete. He grew
up competing in swimming,
water polo, soccer, and
basketball. He played on club
teams and school teams, and was
varsity captain of his high school
water polo team. In college, he
was captain of the swim team. It
may sound like Taylor is a typical
gifted athlete, but he was born with
a birth defect that left him with
only one leg. So his success as an
athlete is anything but typical.
Being drawn to the water, Taylor
naturally took to surfing. In 2007,
after helping at a friend’s surf
camp, he heeded the encouragement of friends and started a surf
camp for children with disabilities.
Project Surf Camp was launched in
2008 in Morro Bay.
The program has steadily grown
since its inception. PSC’s mission is
20
to use surfing and the ocean as a
means to help children with disabilities. Taylor said, “Project Surf Camp
uses surfing, the beach, and other
ocean activities as an educational
modality to build self-confidence,
self-esteem, and self-efficacy in
individuals with special needs. We
further provide opportunities to
build social skills, help improve
physical fitness, develop healthy
outlets for stress reduction, and
foster independence.”
Not only does PSC help children
with disabilities, but the organization also aims to help at-risk
youth, such as those in foster care.
Organizers try to keep camps small
(about 10 kids per camp) to allow
for maximum care for the children.
One of the things that has helped
make PSC a success is the experience of the staff. Though they
use many volunteers to help with
activities, PSC has specialists on site
helping with instruction and care
for the children. Taylor has worked
as a rehabilitation therapist himself
and is currently a special education
teacher in San Luis Obispo County.
Taylor cites community support
as another key component to the
camp’s success. The area’s local fire
and police departments, the Coast
Guard, and various other organizations have all volunteered with PSC.
In 2010, PSC staff Katy Davis
invited The TODAY Show to join
PSC for a day of camp. As a result,
PSC went on to finish runner-up
in the show’s nation-wide grant
contest presented by Pepsi called
“What Do We Care About TODAY.” The contest winners were
determined by public voting. “It’s
kind of incredible really, that a
small town organization like ours
would do so well in such a large
contest. We were going up against
other organizations from big cities
like Seattle and such. It just shows
how much the local community has
supported us.”
It’s easy to see why PSC has
garnered the support of the local
community. In a day and age
where it is easy to be cynical, PSC
aims to help and support children
that are often overlooked. As
surfers, we get to experience the
intangible “stoke” that the ocean
offers and benefit from our ability
to enjoy it. PSC provides an avenue
by which to share that blessing
with those in need of it. It also
provides a tangible way to have a
positive effect on someone else’s
life. And that’s something that we
can all get behind.
To find out more about Project Surf
Camp or to see how you can help,
visit www.projectsurfcamp.com.
tavik swimwear
SURF SHOP
SURFSHOP
SURFBOARDS liddle, mini simms, alaia, ryan lovelace, tomo
BOARDSHORTS insight, analog, rvca, patagonia, lightning bolt
BIKINIS acacia, tavik, made by dawn, maaji, san lorenezo
446 E MAIN STREET IN
DOWNTOWN VENTURA
wetsandsurfshop.com
800 750 7501
surfshop.com
SURFSHOP.COM
Photo: David Pu’u
What’s Your Komunity Project?
Matty Schweitzer
DEEP Surf Magazine and Komunity Project
have teamed up to bring you this new
column. The column will feature a group
or individuals that are helping out in their
communities and trying to make a change
for the good of Mother Earth.
Project Save Our Surf
Ambassador Trae Candy
Clockwise from left: Trae Candy. / Toes over. / Candy spent the day surfing with these
students from the Costa Verde School and now is raising money to benefit the school.
By Katie McLean
W
hat do Pamela Anderson, Rob Machado, and local 16-yearold Trae Candy have in common? They share a love for the
ocean and a concern for clean water. They also participate in
Project Save Our Surf, a non-profit organization comprised of
surfers and celebrities. PSOS is committed to raising awareness and funds for
fresh drinking water and pollution-free seas. Through local beach clean-ups,
surf contests, and ambassador trips, PSOS is giving back to communities and
groups like Santa Monica Baykeeper, Tumelo Home and Waves for Water.
Surf 24, a 24-hour surf contest held at Huntington Beach Pier, is its biggest
event and includes surf teams of celebrities and pro
surfers competing to raise funds. The event gathers tents of other environmental, humanitarian, and
well-being organizations offering samples and live
demonstrations while beachfront surf movies and live
music provide free entertainment.
Last year’s performance featured PSOS board
member Brandon Boyd of Incubus. While this year’s
performers are still secret, Karon Pardue, VP of PSOS,
said, “This August will be the biggest Surf 24 yet.”
Hosted by PT Townend and a panel of ASP judges,
the contest offers no sympathy to celebrity competitors like John Slattery of Mad
Men or Sam Trammell of True Blood. Celebrity participation in the event helps
bring widespread publicity, awareness, and funding to causes important to surfers.
But even with the fame of these names, it’s a shy 16-year-old long boarder
from Goleta, Trae Candy, that last year raised the most money for Surf 24.
Receiving an award from PSOS co-founder Shaun Thompson for his contribution
on Team Santa Barbara Seals, Candy showed that anyone with a passion for the
ocean can make a huge difference.
While it seems like this soft spoken and huge hearted boy came out of the
blue, Candy has been volunteering all his life. “Trae’s the type to give his last
dollar or shirt off his back for someone,” his mother, Karon, said.
Candy was giving his time to help teach amputees and children with autism to
surf when he found out about PSOS. He emailed founder Tanna Frederick to see
how he could help, and she was astonished that someone who wasn’t a celebrity or pro surfer wanted to be involved. Even more astounding was the fact that
Candy was still in high school. He quickly showed he was committed, spending as
much time as he could helping at events, attending fundraisers and raising funds.
“You never have to tell Trae to pay attention. He’s on it all the time. In the
water, on the beach, in the parking lot, in the car, wherever he’s at, he’s taking
it all in,” said Bob Howard, one of Candy’s shapers. “He is a very aware young
man, which is quite refreshing. His listening is smart. It lets you learn something
about both what to do and what not to do.”
22
Candy’s dedication to making a difference has made him an ambassador
for PSOS and now the head of his own affiliated program, Hands On. Through
Hands On, Candy is organizing monthly beach clean-ups at home and where
ever he travels. Since December, he has helped clean Rincon, Campus Point,
Oahu’s North Shore, and Sayulita, Mexico—where he also spent a day teaching the students of Costa Verde School to surf. By the next Surf 24, Candy’s all
longboard team, headed by himself and including Mary Osborne and Jesse
Timm, hope to raise $5,000 for Costa Verde. Candy is in constant contact with
the school since his last trip and is adamant about supporting their art and sciences education, as well as their vegetable garden
and continual beach clean-ups.
“Trae has become quite the role model for young
teens,” said Osborne. Candy manages to gracefully
balance being in high school, heading Hands On,
traveling, and competing in the NSSA for Dos Pueblos High School, all while keeping a calm smile and
polite demeanor.
“His traditional longboard style stands out from
most young surfers nowadays. Trae’s certainly picked
up some classic skills by watching his favorite surfers
Mickey Dora and Robert “Wingnut” Weaver perform on the big screens. His
graceful approach to nose riding and smooth drop knee turns definitely stand
out from the rest and will only get better as he blossoms,” added Osborne.
“Last year, Trae only made one final on the high school team. So I took him
to Malibu at dawn every day last summer, and he bloomed,” said his mother.
With dedication and coaching support from JP Garcia, Trae won last year’s Call
to the Wall contest at Malibu.
He recently even beat idol Wingnut Weaver in Sayulita’s Longboard Classic. “Trae’s surfing is heading very quickly to what Terry Martin calls, ‘As good
as they get.’ He loves noseriding, and is extremely good and stylish at it. In fact
all of his surfing is stylish, which sets him apart; far apart,” said Howard. Trae is
leaving huge impressions in the water and on the beach with his surfing and his
commitment to cleaner beaches and healthier communities.
Next on Trae’s agenda is surf-a-thon fundraiser in Montauk, N.Y., and a trip
to South Africa to distribute water filters with John Rose. There’s also excitement
about the new recycled PSOS and Hands On shirts and jewelry that will be sold
at Neiman Marcus, Fred Segal, and featured in a fashion show at Ventura’s Film
Festival in July.
In April there will be a beach clean-up with the Mesa Surf Club at Ledbetter
Beach in Santa Barbara, and in May with the San Marcos High Special Education department at Hendry’s Beach.
To find out more, visit the Project Save Our Surf Facebook page or
www.projectsaveoursurf.org.
Photo Essay
Brooks seas
Ernie
Brooks
By Chuck Graham
W
hen I lead kayak tours out at Channel
Islands National Park, I often tell visitors
they’re only seeing half the park, that there’s
a whole other world beneath our kayaks
that extends one nautical mile around the five islands.
The national park holds a third of the kelp forests off the
coast of California, an important resource worth protecting
considering the degradation along the mainland.
Those fragile underwater resources come to light in this
issue’s photo essay in the fine art, black and white photography of Ernie Brooks, who has devoted his entire professional life to capturing images of pelagic ecosystems in
every ocean around the globe.
“I try to create a timeless portrayal of my love of the sea,”
said Brooks, a photographer for 40 years, “a lasting memory
without a timeframe or data, and a simple statement that all
can read.”
Brooks comes from fine photography stock, a long line of
successful photographers within his Portuguese ancestry.
His grandmother was a portrait photographer, his uncle a
landscape photographer, and his father, Ernest H. Brooks
Sr., who was a commercial and flower photographer, founded Brooks Institute of Photography in 1945, over a bakery
on State Street in Santa Barbara. His mentors include Armando Salas Portugal of Mexico, Hans Hass of Austria, and
our own Ansel Adams.
“The choice wasn’t difficult,” Brooks continued, referring to the direction he took with his photography. “What
remained was my love of the sea.”
Having just returned from the 100th anniversary of the
Ernest Shackelton expedition to Antarctica, Brooks has
dived and photographed in every ocean. He cites the Channel Islands National Park, where he began his 7,000 hours
of diving, and the coral reefs of the Indo Pacific as favorite
locations.
“Meeting with divers from every walk of life, the word is
conserve and protect,” said the former president of Brooks.
“It’s each person doing his and her part to make a difference for all.”
To see more of Brooks’ photography and for his current
projects and gallery openings, go to www.photokunst.com.
24
Hide and go seek.
Porpoises surfing the bow.
Symmetry.
Red coral sea fans.
Freedom.
Vase coral.
Spill.
Magnificent blue.
Photo Essay: Brooks
Jellyfish Genesis.
School’s out.
w w w.deepzine.com
27
Comen Sense
Challenge Yourself
By Craig Comen
No matter what level you have achieved in the world of water sports,
one thing should always be part of your modus operandi— challenge
yourself. There are many ways that new boundaries can be set, not
only by such risky ventures as slab hunting 50-footers, high-flying
punts and reverses, or reaching out of the way places. Here are a few
simple ways to change things up.
Matt Gallagher fins free on the Central Coast. RANDALL HAMILTON
SINGLE-FIN SURFING
With the evolution of the three-fin board, surfboards got much
more friendly. If you spend a good amount of time riding a singlefin, it becomes clear that the feet have to find the sweet spot, and each
turn needs to be crisp in order to move onto the next. There is much less
room for error, and one’s style cleans up whether one likes it or not. Set a
goal and try to stick with a certain amount of time to get in the groove of
things.
SWITCH-FOOT SURFING
What better way to feel like a kook, or beginner, than to give switchstance a try every session? Eventually a few lights will click, and the ben-
efits gained are immense. The body will perhaps even out muscle wise and
skeletally. Th ink of doing yoga only on one side. We are forgetting a whole
other aspect of ourselves when it comes to wave riding.
TRY DIFFERENT EQUIPMENT
There are so many boards out there to choose from, and it is a shame to
only ride one genre. Like all of the above, trying different approaches,
lengths, fin set-ups, and yes, even SUP surfing will brighten your outlook
and expand your way of being a surfer. When you go back to your normal
board it will feel even livelier and fresh again.
SURF WITHOUT A LEASH
It used to be the only way of surfing, and the strengths it will bring are
multiple. Going leash-less promotes swimming skills, makes you less likely
to fall, boosts confidence, and teaches better wave knowledge.
TAKE A BREAK
As hard as it is for me to stay out of the water, sometimes when I do, the
next session after the break is sweeter and like a new beginning. There are
many reasons to take a break that we do not choose, but a voluntary one
can be a healthy decision and a fasting of sorts.
Faster, Deeper, Tighter, Higher
W W W. F C D S U R F B O A R D S . C O M
SURF SHOP & SURFBOARDS :: 43 S. Olive Street :: Ventura
(805) 641-9428 :: MON-FRI 10am-5pm :: SAT 10am-6pm :: SUN 11am-5pm
(hours subject to change depending on swell)
PHOTO: Kanoa Zimmerman © 2012 Fletcher Chouinard Designs, Inc.
28
Every time out push yourself a little harder (within reason) and see what
your limits are. Every level from beginner to pro can experience a heightened sense of challenge by being aware of their true abilities and searching for a higher benchmark. Consciously doing this will bring beneficial
results and improve your skills. I remember watching guys try their first
airs and thinking they were blowing it, and than a year later they were on
top of the world. Do not be afraid to try new things.
It is the golden age of our sport and it comes with the golden age of
tech. Together they allow us to see the best surfers perform, read their first
hand commentary, use the equipment they have perfected and catch the
same spots they do. Our surfing history is rich and should not be ignored;
yet at the same time we can now be a part of the new story and take advantage of all it has to offer. The list I came up with can go on and on, and
hopefully I can see you out there trying some of the things I suggested,
and oh yeah, when trying them, please do not run anyone over.
Surf Camps
805.966.3613
www.surfhappens.com
TRAILS
SURF
SEAT
The do-it-all, take-it-all board bag
SPONSORED BY
Watermans Surf Camps in Cayucos
that turns into a chair!
Get it in 3 sizes
Sb, Lb and SUP!
The Cayucos Surf Academy
No Surfing Experience Needed
Instructors are Expert Watermen
& CPR/First Aid certified
ONLY school where the finals are Good Clean Fun
Mid-June to Mid-August
Monday-Thursday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Rates Available online: www.goodcleanfunusa.com
More Than A Surf Shop
Established in 1975
Located on the beach in Cayucos
Sportswear for ALL Ages
#FBDI"DDFTTPSJFTr($'4VSGCPBSET
Xcel & West Wetsuits
www.Guai-lo.com
0DFBO'SPOU3Er$BZVDPT
rHPPEDMFBOGVOVTBDPN
SWIM
SALE!
15% off
ALL SWIM
& receive a
FREE Revolution hat
(while supplies last). Promotion ends May 20th
Open Mon - Sat. 10-7pm
Sundays 11-5pm
Surf • Skate
Clothing/Access.
and MORE
Revolution Surf Co.
RevoGirls
1775 Daily Drive #C
Camarillo
(805) 383-1288
In the Baja Fresh Center
Bikini Factory
100% Hand Crochet Custom Bikinis
in Summerland
Water Friendly
Unique
Functional
Available at:
Rincon Designs, Carpinteria
TropiCali, Santa Barbara
Ojai Pool, Ojai
805.798.0859
www.knottygirlbikinis.com
2012 SWIMSUIT ISSUE
Photo by David Pu’u.
Model: Alma Billgren in Sophia by Vix.
W W W.DEEPZINE.COM
31
Swimsuit Issue
THE ENCHANTED COAST
The Gaviota coastline stretches from Goleta north to Point Conception; an interesting
place Point Conception is. As the westernmost point of land in the continental U.S.,
it has several characteristics that make it very distinctive.
Photos and Story by David Pu’u
6
5
32
Swimsuit Issue
I
grew up in Goleta, and the Gaviota
Coast—“seagull” in Spanish—has been my
playground and home for most of my life.
In that stretch, it ranges from the Channel
Islands, across the ocean to the top of the
Santa Ynez Coastal Mountain range.
Foremost for me is its deeply spiritual
significance. The Chumash Nation believes it to
be the geographic location of the Western Gate,
which is where souls leave the Earth for the next
plane of existence. I have little doubt regarding
the veracity of this legend. >>
1
2
1. Refugio. 2. (cover
swimsuit) Alma in Sophia
by Vix, available at Rincon
Designs (Carpinteria).
4
3. Alma in O’Neill Penny
Lane, available at A-Frame
(Carpinteria). 4. Lars in
Analog Locked Up, available at WetSand (Ventura).
5. Jeff in Quiksilver Cypher
Resin ( www.quiksilver.com)
and Oakley Dispatch II (www.oakley.com). 6. Lars in Body Glove Voodoo’s, available at Surf Country (Goleta).
3
W W W.DEEPZINE.COM
33
Swimsuit Issue
6
<< I have surfed, swam, run, walked,
hiked, sailed, fished, dove, flown, boated, created
and loved there. What I have experienced on this
enchanted stretch ofcoastline would fill many
books. In all my travels around the world, the
only other places I have roamed as extensively
are certain locations in Hawaii.
Close friends of mine live there and are
stewards of their land, some of which was taken
from the Chumash by the Spanish and in turn,
U.S. governments. They have a deep and abiding
respect for the soil on which they have placed
their homes. I cherish their investment. They
all have been incredibly gracious to me over the
years—sharing would be the appropriate word.
They own the land, yet they see it as special
enough to let me play on it when I ask. >>
1
3
2
5
14
4
12
13
34
11
10
Swimsuit Issue
7
8
9
1. Hailey in Roxy Wild Escape Tiki Tri and 70s Lowrider Tie Side
(www.roxy.com) and Asia in Rip Curl Amazonian top and L*Space
Monique bottoms, available at Revolution Surf Co. (Camarillo).
2. Jonathan in RS Surf, available at Current Unlimited (Goleta).
3. Asia in Volcom Lazy Days (Revolution Surf Co.). 4. Lars in Patagonia Minamalist Wavefarer (www.patagonia.com). 5. Asia in So What
Surf ‘n’ Skate girls Tank and Booty Shorts., available at
So What Surf ‘n’ Skate (Topanga). 6. Asia in L*Space Ibiza, available
at Sundance Beach (Goleta), and Alma in Knotty Girl, available at
Rincon Designs, TropiCali (Santa Barbara) and Ojai Pool.
7. Jeff in Oakley Hypersonic trunks and Oakley Dispatch II sunglasses (www.oakley.com). 8. Jonathan in Volcom Fun da Mental’s,
available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria). 9. Jeff in Body Glove
Vapors, available at Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura) and Pro Lite
hat, available at So What Surf ‘n’ Skate (Topanga). 10. Lars in
Billabong Donovan Frankenreiter Collection, available at Ventura
Surf Shop (Ventura). 11. Hailey in Tavik Kiki top and Reef bottoms,
available at WetSand (Ventura). 12. Alma in Boys + Arrows Patsy
the Player, available at Sundance Beach (Goleta). 13. Asia in Rip
Curl Amazonian top and L*Space Monique bottoms, available at
Revolution Surf Co. (Camarillo). 14. Lars in Billabong Garage
Collection, available at A-Frame (Carpinteria).
W W W.DEEPZINE.COM
35
Swimsuit Issue
<< A string of three State Beaches
lie in the midst of the coast. Gaviota is northernmost, then Refugio, then south to El Capitan.
Each park is a gateway to a unique experience.
I hope that our beleaguered state manages to
keep them open. But there are also numerous
free and legal coastal access points all along this
remarkably vital stretch of coastline.
When DEEP Surf Magazine Director Andres
Nuño dropped me a note and asked if I wanted
to shoot the annual Swimsuit Issue again, I knew
exactly what I wanted to do: honor this coastline
and share it with my friends and crew members.
But doing it in the dead of winter was going to
be a trick. Making it even more complex was a
tricky La Niña weather season.
DEEP’s Swimsuit Issue is a very complex project. What makes it difficult beyond the chilly
weather and water factors, is how the publication acquires the apparel and who they attempt
to serve. Local retailers, manufacturers and
advertisers supply the goods during the time of
year when new lines are being released. It is all
about tight deadline. >>
1
9
11
10
7
6
8
36
Swimsuit Issue
2
3
4
1. Hailey in Volcom Rear View Posso, available at A-Frame (Carpinteria). 2. Jonathan in
So What Surf ‘n’ Skate tank, available at So What Surf ‘n’ Skate (Topanga), Billabong Platinum X Striker’s, available at Ventura Surf Shop and
Jupiter Squared by Oakley (www.oakley.com). 3. Jonathan in Hippie Tree Tetons, available at Homegrown ( Ventura) and Oakley Jupiter Squared
(www.oakley.com). 4. Lars in Quiksilver Cypher Reynolds Revolt (www.quiksilver.com), and Julian Wilson Signatures by Oakley (www.oakley.com).
5. Asia in Quiksilver Dawn Patrol, available at Bikini Factory (Summerland). 6. Sierra in Roxy Daisy Rhapsody halter and Crochet Surfer bottoms
(www.roxy.com). 7. Sierra in Tyler Rose Hey Girl and Peter Grimm Jah Love hat, available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria). 8. Alma in Oakley Peaches
Bikini top and Asia in Patagonia Tuamotu top and Surf Skirt (www.patagonia.com). 9. Jeff in Oakley Like a Flash (www.oakley.com). 10. The girls.
11. Sierra in Jelly Swimwear, available at Current Unlimited (Goleta).
5
W W W.DEEPZINE.COM
37
Swimsuit Issue
3
2
1
7
8
9
<< I was challenged to assemble
14
15
38
something special. No large corporate
entity is invited to be solely represented, and the
lineup of product for 2012 was vast. It required
magic. So I figured we would do it on the Gaviota
Coast and I selected Refugio State Beach, the
place I had learned to surf so many decades ago.
It is an idyllic setting. Both President Reagan
and Michael Jackson lived up canyon, along with
some friends of mine. I know every inch of the
place, and I trust it.
Long story short for the sake of space here,
Andres and his girlfriend Brianna Russell
worked their magic. Donna Von Hoesslin, my
stylist and who I like to use for design, threw
down, along with the remarkable collective of
friends who work as my models and collaborators and who comprise the tapestry of my life.
Swimsuit Issue
6
5
4
10
11
13
1. From left, Hailey in Oakley Cookin’ top and Spiked bottoms
(www.oakley.com) and Sierra in Jelly Swimwear, available at Current Unlimited (Goleta). 2. Asia in L*Space Audrey Fringe top and
L*Space Tesserae Foxy Tab bottom, available at Ventura Swimwear
(Ventura). 3. Asia in Tyler Rose Some Like It Haut and Roxy Cantina
hat, available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria). 4. Hailey in Volcom
Diner Dot halter and Soft Waist bottom., available at Ventura
Swimwear (Ventura). 5. Jonathan in Billabong Strikers, available at
Ventura Swimwear (Ventura). 6. Asia in Maaji Starfish, available
at WetSand (Ventura). 17. Asia in Acacia Sayulita, available at
Sundance Beach (Goleta) and Oakley Changeover Mademoiselle
(www.oakley.com). 8. Alma in Volcom Sultry, available at A-Frame
(Carpinteria).9.From left, Jonathan in Volcom Los Pockitos (Rincon
Designs in Carpinteria) and Pro Lite hat (So What Surf ‘n’ Skate in
Topanga), Sierra in Boys + Arrows (Rincon Designs), Asia in Acacia
Sayulita (Sundance Beach in Goleta), Alma in Happy Endingz (www.
happyendingz.com), Jeff in Quiksilver Cypher Series (Sundance
Beach in Goleta) and Billabong trucker (Rincon Designs), Hailey
in Volcom Rear View Posso (A-Frame in Carpinteria) and Lars
in Volcom V4S (Revolution Surf Co. in Camarillo) and Low Tide
Rising hat (Surf Country in Goleta). All glasses provided by Oakley
(www.oakley.com). 10. Alma in Raisins Rose Halter and Kauai Kini
bottoms, vailable at Bikini Factory (Summerland). 11. Jeff in Body
Glove Vapors (Homegrown Surf Shop) and Pro Lite hat (ASo What
Surf ‘n’ Skate ). 12. Lars in Oakley Blades (www.oakley.com). 13.
Sierra in Boys + Arrows (Rincon Designs). 14. Alma in Patagonia
Tuamotu top and Bayonne bottoms (www.patagonia.com) and
sarong, available at A-Frame (Carpinteria). 15. Jonathan in Oakley
Radio Actives (www.oakley.com).
12
W W W.DEEPZINE.COM
39
Swimsuit Issue
1
>>
>> Kyle Sparks, one of my favorite assistants;
Bethany Fankhauser, who is a mentor project of mine; Jeff
Belzer from Ventura Makos; and Rob Dafoe, my partner in
cinema crime, and lifelong friend, all agreed to come and
make this DEEP swimwear shoot happen.
My goal was to make it fun and provide a creative foil
where each person could create some fantastic work as an
artist. Oh, and I cast my son Jonathan, who is a Muay Thai
fighter, a multi-sport athlete and a creative guy (writing
that makes me smile).
I also asked my friend and colleague Dr. Andrea Neal, who
is a Science Advisor for Blue Ocean Sciences, Ocean Futures,
and Project Kaisei, to come along. There is a lot of B.S. being
employed as political propaganda regarding the oceans and
coastline today. Dr. Neal, being one of the foremost experts
on marine environments in the world, is someone I really
cherish getting to hang out with. We have been engaged in a
lot of dry time lately. I wanted to add some water to the relationship. Plus, she is a killer foodie.
On the day of the shoot, the weather and swell were enchanting. A stronger more evocative word would be magic.
But the most rewarding descriptor would be “fun.”
Here it is. The Enchanted Coast: Gaviota.
2
Location: Refugio State Beach
Producer: Andres Nuño
Assistant Producer: Brianna Russell
Director: Lead photographer David Pu’u
Cinematographer: Rob Dafoe
First Assistant: Photographer Kyle Sparks
Second Assistant: Photographer Bethany Fankhauser
Designer: Donna Von Hoesslin
Science and Coastal advisor: Dr. Andrea Neal, Blue Ocean Sciences
Tanning Services: Solymar Tanning, Mary Osborne
Surfing, Lifeguard Services: Jeff Belzer of Ventura Makos
4
and Lars Rathje
3
1. Asia in Acacia Haiku top and Hamoa bottoms, available at
WetSand (Ventura). 2. Jonathan in Brixton Planks (WetSand
in Ventura), Jeff in Reef Broken Glass (Surf Country in Goleta),
Dispatch II by Oakley (www.oakley.com) and Rhythm Jam Backpack
(www.rhythmlivinusa.com), and Lars in O’Neill Lopez Freaks
(Sundance Beach in Goleta). 3. Hailey in Roxy Wild Escape Tiki Tri
and 70s Lowrider Tie Side (www.roxy.com). 4. Jonathan in Quiksilver
Cypher Kelly Nomads (www.quiksilver.com), Lars in Oakley Blade’s
(www.oakley.com), and Jeff in Rhythm Flag On’s (Homegrown in
Ventura). 5. Water break. 6. From left, Alma in Knotty Girl (Rincon
Designs, TropiCali and Ojai Pool), Asia in L*Space Ibiza (Sundance
Beach in Goleta), Sierra in Roxy Against the Tide Surfer Tri and
Surfer Tie Side, and Hailey in Seaweeds Swim Shelby (Homegrown
Surf Shop in Ventura).
40
5
Models: Jonathan Pu’u, Hailey and Sierra Partridge,
Asia Carpenter, Alma Billgren, Belzer and Rathje
6
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
DEEP Reviews
VANS BOARDIES
BODY GLOVE
GNARWHAL ................................................................................ $69.50
Features V-fly closure for secure fit. Means no chafing! Side pocket with laser-cut mesh
drainage so that boardshort can be packed into for travel. Tricked out with wax comb, bottle
opener, leash loop, and flathead screwdriver. Elastane superstretch.
VANS ERA CLASSICS
Checkerboard Bittersweet & Punch................................ $54.50
The Era Classic Boardshorts look like the Vans on your feet. They are lightweight,
water-resistant and over time molds to the contours of your legs. Also featured
is a no-slip drawstring with side pockets.
MEN’S VAPOR.........................................................................$539.95
Whether kayaking, standup paddling or surfing, I found the Body Glove Men’s Vapor 2/1mm
Long Arm Shorty to be a vital piece of equipment in my oceanic endeavors. Body Glove
uses Vapor Stretch: superior, water repellent, super-stretch neoprene. I get comfort and
flexibility along with the water repellent neoprene that doesn’t sacrifice performance and
durability—key attributes when putting a wetsuit to the test.
The Vapor Stretch water repellent technology is located in the shoulders and arms, and the
Magna Flex in the under arms, body and legs is the highest performance stretch material
there is, 10 percent lighter than standard neoprene.
Other features include a left arm exterior zip key pocket, slant zip chest entry and deboss
printing on the chest. To get maximum usage, always rinse in cool fresh water and hang to
dry out of direct sunlight.
–Chuck Graham
Available at: Pancho’s Surf Shop in Pismo Beach
KOMUNITY PROJECT
COMP CORD ...........................................................$22.00
The Comp Cord comes in 6-foot and includes padded neoprene, a solid urethane cord, a
detachable triple wrap rail saver and his custom molded fittings. The double swivel design
insures a wrap-free session. Comes in black, blue, lime and orange.
TRACTION PADS
Collaborated with Kelly Slater to develop pads that grip like “flypaper.” All traction pads
feature Kelly’s 10x Boost Tail Kick made of high density EVA.
1
SLATER’S PADS ......................................................$40.00
(See #1) One-piece pad, 14” long, molded traction grip and 20mm kick.
SLATER’S GROM PADS ..........................................$36.00
2
(See #2) 12” long, elevated square grip, 7mm arch and 20mm kick.
ICON PADS .............................................................$36.00
3
LORI GRAHAM
Available at: www.bodyglove.com
SCOSCHE INDUSTRIES
BOOMCAN .................................................................................$24.99
Slightly larger than a film cannister, the boomCAN, pumps out big sound despite its small
footprint—perfect for those long surf trips. It plugs into a 3.5mm headphone jack making
it compatible with virtually any portable media player. Its rechargeable lithium-ion battery
provides up to seven hours of music playback. FLIPCHARGE FAMILY OF CHARGERS .............. $44.99 to $59.99
Ever been caught with a dead battery in the middle of a surf trip? Check out
the flipCHARGE burst and flipCHARGE rogue—a new line of back-up battery
and charger lines. They provide instant power to your iPhone and iPod.
The flipCHARGE rogue sports a powerful 1800mAh lithium polymer battery, capable of fully
charging a dead iPhone or iPod. The flipCHARGE burst provides an emergency 30% power
burst to an iPhone and can charge a dead iPod up to 70% full.
flipCHARGE Burst
Both flipCHARGE models are recharged by plugging into any computer, wall or car charger.
(See #3) Three-piece pad, 12” long, elevated square grip, 10mm arch and 25mm kick.
Available at: www.komunityproject.com
Santa Barbara
Maritime Museum
Available at: www.scosche.com
flipCHARGE Rogue
HENDRY’S BEACH JUNIOR LIFEGUARDS
113 Harbor Way, Suite 190 • (805) 962-8404 x115 • www.sbmm.org
May 2012 - 2014
Lost Art Posters Exhibit
Surf Artist Rick Sharp
May 17, 7 pm
Diving the Montebello
by Bob Schwemmer
Free(members), $5(non-members)
June 21, 7 pm
Underwater Photography
by Tom Campbell
Free(members), $5(non-members)
June 9, June 23, July 14, July 28
Saturday 10 am - 12 noon
Art Classes
Call 962-8404 x115 to register
Fi l ms
(check website for times)
Daily Films
Sir Francis Drake
Above Santa Barbara
Ghosts of the Abyss
Sharks on Their Best Behavior
Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure
Santa Barbara and the Sea
Surf Saturday Films
The Big Swell
Above Santa Barbara
Bustin Down the Door
Women and the Waves
Innermost Limits of Pure Fun
Santa Barbara and the Sea
The Craving
O pe n eve r yday e xce pt We dnesday 10 am - 5 pm
( free ever y 3rd Th u rsd ay o f t h e mo nth )
42
FUN AND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM
Provides children 8-17 instruction in lifesaving, rescue techniques, water
safety, first aid, CPR, marine ecology, the environment and marine life.
ACTIVITIES: Include paddling, surfing, body surfing, running,
swimming, water sports and beach games.
PROGRAM:
Improves your child’s physical conditioning and
emphasizes the importance of safety, respect and teamwork.
Session 1: July 2 - 20 • Session 2: July 23 - Aug. 10
$270 ($245 each additional sibling) for single session
$450 ($410 each additional sibling) for both sessions
Early drop off available. $25 early enrollment discount.
For more information visit www.sbparks.org/jg
[email protected] • 805-729-5028
Ventura Swimwear
COMEDY
SHOWS
EVERY
Wed. - Sun.
2 for 1
Admission
w/this ad.
Reservations
required.
*Not valid for
Special Events
Exp. 7/1/2012
May 18-19
Brad Williams
Born with Achondroplastic dwarfism, Brad
turned to comedy to
make other people
comfortable. He tours
with Carlos Mencia.
May 25-27
Mike Pace
An Emmy nominee,
Mike is a regular on
HBO’s Aspen Comedy
Arts Fest, Larry David’s
“Curb Your Enthusiasm”
and “Comic Relief.”
Call (805) 644-1500
for Reservations
WWW.VENTURAHARBORCOMEDYCLUB.COM
“Where it’s all
about the
fit and making
you look good”
Beach Break Surf Shop
\~l~[~z|
-OAEc&MDA 9E9
0APc&-H9;=cADD9:GF?
)(=ADDc,==>c0GD;GE
&M;Q&GN=c'9MA9:=
Awesome Selection
of Swimwear
-=H9J9L=K*A=;=K
Infants to plus sizes
Men’s & Boys
1559 Spinnaker
SpinnakerJc
Jc
Open Daily 10am – 6pm
(805) 650-6641¬Suite 108
www.beachbreaksurfshop.com
k{~Z¬[}`~¬b}
a~¬sz¬]~~p~{~
lz¬dzz¬lzz\¬kz{
From left: Coconuts are never hard to find in Micronesia. / Local groms amongst the mangroves. / Tiger Shark. / Sunset from atop Sokehs Rock. / View from the restaurant of
the Village Hotel. Below: The anticipation of what lies immediately ahead for this unidentified Japanese charger.
Sharkbite right
a Palikir
Pass Yarn
Story and Photos by Michael kew
P
ohnPei is one of those primordial
tropical islands you might see in action
movies and adventure reality shows,
except none have been filmed there—
Hollywood can’t find it on a map and probably
never will. There are lots of pretty waterfalls
and dense, misty jungles, but the island has no
beaches, it’s too damn far away, it rains often, and
the locals are typically stoned off weed or drunk
from sakau.
Alone with your thoughts...
With its immaculate satellite atolls of Ant and Pakin, lush little Pohnpei
(PON-pay), one of three Senyavin Islands within the 500 Caroline Islands,
occupies a few thousand muggy acres of the West Pacific. It is the capital
of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM), a sovereign island nation that
includes the states of Yap, Chuuk, and Kosrae, about seven degrees above the
equator, east of Palau, north of New Guinea. Ringed with mangrove forest, its
lagoon and healthy barrier reef are pierced with 21 passes. Only 13 miles wide,
Pohnpei, which means “upon a stone altar,” is the FSM’s biggest, tallest (Mt.
Nahna Laud is 2,595 feet), most developed, and most populated (34,500)
island, a smaller, rainier (more than 300 inches annually), more remote but
similarly verdant cousin of Tahiti, with good diving, fishing, and the flawless
right-hand barrels of Palikir Pass, two miles off the island’s northwest coast.
Alan Hamilton moved from Palos Verdes to Santa Barbara in 1967, when
he was 17. In 1971, a few months after a guy named Mort McIntosh had
first surfed Pohnpei, Hamilton and partner John Bradbury became the first
owners of a parcel (#55) in the Hollister Ranch, where the regular-footed
Hamilton surfed exclusively. A diehard sailor, he became a commercial
fisherman, skippering Alamo, an old shrimp boat based in Santa Barbara
Harbor. In 1987 he hired an energetic Pohnpeian deckhand named Danny,
who was in Santa Barbara illegally as an undocumented alien.
“After Pohnpei and those other islands got their independence in 1986,”
Hamilton told me, “they hired this guy named Bill Bixler to go out and do a
survey of the tuna. Bixler hired Danny, and when they were done surveying,
they smuggled him back to Santa Barbara, and he started getting jobs on
everybody’s boats.”
At Danny’s urging, Hamilton visited Pohnpei in early April 1991. He
brought two surfboards with him and stayed at Danny’s house at the base of
Sokehs Rock. “I got a map of Pohnpei and saw Palikir Pass on it,” Hamilton
said. “I thought it looked like a good setup for surf. Danny was there with
me, and he had a little boat, and I said, ‘Danny, take me out to this pass.’
We went out there, and it was just this dynamite wave.”
Palikir was offering glassy, head-high sets. It was Hamilton’s second day
on Pohnpei; he stayed two months.
One night, Hamilton was in a smoky bar, shooting pool with FSM president Bailey Olter. Olter offered Hamilton the job of skippering the 80-foot
Kocho, a Japanese fishing boat seized while fishing illegally in Pohnpeian
waters. Skippering sounded good, and he knew boats, so in June 1991 Hamilton returned to Santa Barbara and sold everything he owned, including
Alamo and the Hollister Ranch parcel, in less than two weeks, because on
Pohnpei, a new life of deep sea-fishing and Palikir-tuberiding awaited.
Not all adhered to plan. Hamilton: “The senator who was in charge of
the project was from Mokil Atoll, like 100 miles from Pohnpei, and he had a
store out there. I ended up just taking all of these sacks of rice and cigarettes
w w w.deepzine.com
45
1
2
3
4
5
6
Squeaking under.
Ikaika, feeling it.
Opposite sequence: Australian Damian Oswald, now lives on Pohnpei. Wonder why? Above: Madolenihmw Harbor.
and everything out to the senator’s little store instead of going fishing, like
I was supposed to. I was supposed to do all these fishing trips and stuff, but
never did.”
Yet surfing was never far. Palikir was Hamilton’s main wave, but he
surfed around the island, in all seasons. And he was always alone except the
few times he took a visiting marine biologist out, or when he surfed Palikir
with Mark Hepner, a Kauaian diver who exported tropical fish.
On April 9, 1994, Hamilton almost lost his left hand and forearm to an
8-foot-long bull shark. He was surfing at Palikir; it was a foot overhead and
perfect, with nobody in sight. Around 2 p.m., he kicked out of wave, and
started paddling back out. On his second stroke—BAM!
“The shark came up from behind me super fast and it was like a grenade
went off in my arm. It was going in too fast; it bit and then it slid down my
arm. The shark yanked me off my board and then went backwards off my
arm with its jaw clamped down, scraping my flesh off down to my fingertips.
It took all the tendons and it broke my bones—and I was way out there by
myself at Palikir. My panga was parked on the reef, so I just caught a dinky
wave with my one arm and glided on in to the boat. I was bleeding like
crazy. The only chance I had was to get into town as quickly as I could.”
Hamilton’s boat had a paltry 9-horsepower outboard; the trip to Palikir
from Kolonia took nearly 30 minutes, longer than most. He managed to
start the motor, untie the anchor, and head back toward town, but immense
blood loss caused Hamilton to drift in and out of consciousness.
“I went blind because all the blood went out of my head, so I laid down
because I couldn’t see anymore. I figured that, hell, I was going to die, but
when I was lying down, my vision came back, so I just stayed down and
drove with my feet.
He crashed into the Micro Glory, a docked freighter that was about to
depart for Kapingamarangi. The crew looked down, grabbed him, and
rushed him to Pohnpei Hospital in Kolonia, where he remained for six days,
receiving rudimentary but adequate care. He flew to Honolulu for further
treatment at Tripler Army Medical Center, but the hospital would not accept him. So he rang Santa Barbara’s Cottage Hospital, which “couldn’t
wait” to get him in.
“They treated me like I was Mick Jagger,” Hamilton said. Cottage sought
to specialize in orthopedic surgery, and Hamilton was a prime guinea pig;
the hospital treated “the sharkbite guy” for free, and over the next four
months he had four operations. The fingers of Hamilton’s left hand no
longer functioned but, permanently stuck in an outward closed formation,
he could still paddle, and in February 1995 he started surfing again. Back
on Pohnpei, his blood-stained surfboard was nailed to a wall in Rumors, a
lively bar among the mangroves at Sokehs Harbor.
In late 1995 Hamilton bought a 30-foot fiberglass boat and sailed it from
Hawaii to Tahiti, where he stayed three years, doing essentially nothing. Via
Yvon Chouinard, a friend of Hamilton’s, Chuck Corbett heard of him and
invited him to Kiribati. The two sailed to Fanning Island in separate boats.
It was the summer of 1999; Hamilton stayed for 18 months, surfing Whaler
Anchorage and English Harbor.
“He was 49 years old, smoking two packs a day, and surfing double-overhead waves alone,” Corbett said. “To this day, he is the most stylish surfer I
have ever surfed with.”
In 2001 Hamilton traded his small boat for a 40-foot sailboat and went
to Hawaii. Today he collects disability checks and lives on the boat in
Molokai’s Kaunakakai Harbor.
W W W.DeePzine.cOM
47
Recent Spring Swell
,
e
k
o
J
o
n
Just stoke
Opposite from top left: An unidentified
surfer in the cove. / Dreamy Santa
Barbara./ In the ejection seat.
Bottom sequence: Coming unglued.
A
story by glenn Dubock
strAnge winter passes without
much rain nor wave-induced pain. Muscles and
tendons that would normally be stretched and
stressed are coiled and begging for intense
paddling action. Springtime appears without much fanfare other than
incessant winds that will only keep the kite riders and windsurfers happy. It
would appear we wave-riders have somehow offended the surf gods and
they have decided to punish us with a dearth of monumental waves.
Oh, how quickly our fortunes, and wave riding opportunities, can
change!
A large blob appears on the weather map in a distant sea. Like a large
stone chucked into a placid pond, the outward-bound ripples began their
long journey to grace our shores. Predictions are made, plans are set
afoot, lives are altered and we, as surfers, have hope renewed.
In the pre-dawn hour, thousands of alarm clocks interrupt the salty
dreams of sleepy surfers. A mad scramble ensues; wetsuits and wax are
tossed into vehicles that have been pointed at the coast. This new swell has
come on the heels of a solid drenching rainstorm so the general consensus
is that the best waves might be had before the clearing winds chime in with
their own brand of surf music.
“Is this an April Fools joke?” groans one dissatisfied surf forecast cus-
sequence: Dubock.com
tomer at the sight of the windblown mess that has shown up instead of the
promised perfection.
Fully grown adults are reduced to child-like tantrums as they curse the
fowl breeze and kick at the sand that is moving down the beach like a lowflying belt sander. But to know the twists and turns of the bending coast
and the gentle massaging of the tides is to know hope for better waves
ahead. And so the search begins.
There is nothing more elemental or unique to the sport of surfing than
the surf check. Be it two or 20 spots, it is the way our nomadic tribe, in the
face of hopeless odds, seeks out the best of a bad situation. We cannot
control the waves or the winds but we can improve our destiny by multiplying our destinations.
As the hours pass and the miles roll under your tires, it would appear that the surf is rapidly building and the winds are turning to a more
favorable direction. Coves and reefs that have sat dormant for years are
starting to show vital signs of surfable life. That one spot, the secret one
you have held so close to your neoprene covered chest for all these years,
is now looking like a private saltwater amusement park with reeling lines
of pitching peaks that were the stuff of dreams just a short time ago.
You find your rhythm and renew your stoke with every turn and tube you
slip through. The dreary memory of days of waveless agony is suddenly
parked in a distant corner of your wave-soaked brain.
Dub
bill Tover
Dubock.com
Dubock.com
w w w.deepzine.com
49
Northern Santa Barbara County. Dubock.com
Wedge. Dubock.com
Demi. Dubock.com
Dane Reynolds. Tover
Trevor Gordon. Tover
Aaron Ernst. tover
Nate Winkles. Brent LieBerman
Colin Dwyer. tover
Unruly Jalama. DuBock.com
Kairi Noro. BiLL tover
Surf Shop Down Low
Homegrown
Surf Shop
By Shawn Tracht
kenny backer
From left, Cory Waltrip, Lunnden Carlson and owners veronika and Walter Winters.
The vision all started in November of 2010 when Walter Winters and his wife, Veronika, were looking to start
a business together. Having both grown up around the surf industry and sharing a passion for surf, they knew they
wanted to create a core shop with a myriad of accessories and filled with local and emerging brands.
They started looking for a location and came across a small garage-like space in the Industrial area in Ventura off
of Market and Walter street. It was ideal at the moment because it was near a lot of respectable and well-known local
shapers. With Walter’s 15 years of experience in construction, it took a good four months for them to build the store,
and on March 19 of last year they had their grand opening.
Six months later, the store was catching fire, and they felt it was time to leave their little hidden gem and expand. So
they started looking for spots around mid-town in Ventura because they loved the neighborhood feel. They spent their
nights after work driving around looking for a spot that was ideal and available.
On a whim one night, Walter crossed the street when he thought he saw a “For Lease” sign in an old abandoned
window. The window was so dirty that you could barely even see in, yet Walter somehow saw it.
They knew there was a gem hidden under all that dirt, so the next thing they did was sign the lease and get back
to work, putting in 14-plus hours a
day and using eco friendly materials
to build their new surf shop. They got
it up and running in a month, and in
October of 2011, planted their roots for
years to come.
“(We are) homegrown, rooted and
eco,” said Walter. “We are rooted in the
community and global awareness. We
provide a positive and safe atmosphere
for the youth to hang out and be part
of. Along with putting on events like
art shows, local bands playing at the
shop, and movie nights, we want to
talk surf and educate you on our products. We occasionally have local shapers
come talk and advocate bringing awareness of a good cause and more.”
With a clientele from groms to
surfers who are “richer” in age and
everything in between, Homegrown
is an old school core surf shop worth
stopping in, maybe every day.
Homegrown Surf Shop
2485 E. Main St., Ventura
Hrs: S-M, 11-5p, T-F, 10-6p, Sat, 10-5p
Tel: (805) 642-SURF (7873)
www.homegrownsurfshop.com
52
DeeP sURF MAGAZine May/June 2012
Brands Carried:
FCS, Futures,
Kenetik Fins, Captain Fin
Co., Rainbow Fins,
Pro-Lite, Famous,
Creatures Of Leisure,
Wave Tribe, OAM,
Astrodeck, Kommunity,
Dakine, Body Glove,
Resist, Backnine, Mds*,
Parole, LCU, Ellington,
Betty B, Whimsy Grove,
Seaweads Swimwear,
Homegrown Surf apparel,
Freedom Artists, Tavik,
Rythm, Globe, Hippy Tree,
OG, Apathy, Pablo Surf,
Neff, Klean, Cobian,
Flojos, Locals, Zig Zag
Shoes, Penny, Z Flex,
R.A.D. Skateboards,
Gritty Skateboards,
Carver Boards, Vertra,
Head Hunter, Zinka,
Freestyle, Sexwax,
Tikiwaxx, Sticky Bumps,
Big Swell, Block Surf,
Filtrate, Hoyte Designs
SHOP HAPPYENDINGZ.COM
MMA Summer Camp
SB June 11-15 | Ventura July 9-13
Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu (Gy & No Gy)
Kickboxing Classes • MMA Classes
Men, Women & Kids Classes
“We Make Being a Landlord or Investor Easy”
Professional. Easily Accessible.
(805) 628-0909 • www.805Leasing.com
DRE# 01234873
SPECIAL: 1 FREE WEEK
805.850.8801 • www.ParagonBJJ.com
Ventura | Santa Barbara | San Luis Obispo
3 CENTRAL COAST LOCATIONS
Carpinteria: 5003 Carpinteria Ave. , 684-8288
Montecito: 1187 Coast Village Rd. #3C, 969-1277
Ventura: 1780 S. Victoria Ave. #D, 650-6080
FREE LOCAL DELIVERY
wE AlwAyS hAvE ThE lATEST
Surf reportS • Swell forecaStS • photoS • VideoS • profileS
.com
SANTA BARBARA SURFER
SURF
ANY PIZZA! ANY SIZE!
NOW SERVING
Spaghetti • Antipasta
Calzones • Hot Sandwiches
Pastas • Fresh Beer on Tap
SHOP
$2 OFF
TEAM RIDER: BEAU CLARKE
TEAM RIDER : MICKY CLARKE
2485 east main street, ventura ca.
805.642.surf (7873)
AND MORE!!
School’s
In Session
By Shawn Tracht
IF YOU’RE A SURFER, then you know;
you know the feeling of sliding freely
down a crystal-green wall of water, all
thoughts in your head gone for a moment in time.
Pure adrenaline rushing to your soul, and a spark
of confidence that you carry with you around town,
like an unraveled enigma of enlightened understanding about the world and you’re place in it.
Being a surfer isn’t almost cool. When you’re a
surfer, you are just cool! Anyone can ski. Anyone
can skate. However, surfing is the ultimate challenge of patience, determination, and learning a
skill that is multifaceted: you must learn not only
how to stand up and ride a wave, but more importantly, you must learn how waves work and how to
be safe and comfortable in the ocean.
And this is why surf camps up and down the
Central Coast are thriving. Longing to break free,
people give themselves the opportunity to surf.
Students range in age from 6 to 60, boys and girls,
men and women. No matter whose surf school one
attends, there is one common denominator among
every beginner that I’ve ever met—emphatic stoke
and the understanding that their lives will never be
the same. Like Nirvana, the minute an individual
becomes one with the ocean, even for a split
second of perfection, they are transported in a way
into some sublime realm of mystic thought. In laymen’s terms, we just call this “stoke.”
Surf camps are a powerful way to bring happiness to each and every person who is willing to
let go and become part of Mother Nature. Each
beginner is going to take their spills and face
plant at least once, but I’ve never taught a lesson
where those people didn’t come up smiling. At a
surf camp, instructors provide in-depth knowledge
of how waves break, how to begin to understand
ocean currents and rip-tide safety skills, and more
than anything, how to “catch a wave and be sittin’
on top of the world.” The only thing a surf lesson
can’t do is give you a bushy bushy blond hairdo,
but besides the hair, your heart and mind will be
exhilarated, and speaking from 17 years of experience, it will make your life good and clear everything from your mind.
Go surf!
Check out these surf camps in your area. More photos of each camp available at www.deepzine.com.
54
OCEAN ADVENTURES
by A-Frame Surf Shop
Santa Claus Beach, Carpinteria
www.summerbeachcamp.com
(805) 684-8803, Sam or Rob Holcombe
2012 DEEP SURF
CAMP LISTINGS
SANTA BARBARA
SURF ADVENTURES
by Beach House
Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara
www.santabarbarasurfadventures.com
(805) 963-1281, Roger Nance
Santa Barbara Surf Adventures is a week long
camp for kids 8 years and older with basic swim
skills and a desire to ride waves. The camp takes
place at Leadbetter Beach, a long rolling wave
great for the beginner or intermediate surfer.
Surfboard, wetsuit and lunch at the Shoreline
Cafe are all included. Fore more information
visit www.santabarbarasurfadventures.com.
SURF HAPPENS SURF CAMPS
Santa Claus Beach, Carpinteria
www.surfhappens.com
(805) 451-7568, Chris Keet
The original surf camp at Santa Claus Lane, where
kids head to the beach, step into a smile, and
return home sandy, salty, tired and stoked. Brought
to you by the organizers of the Rincon Classic, our
goal is to build self-esteem while teaching the fundamentals of surfing, surfs history, and helping kids
learn the rewards of self-discipline, commitment
and teamwork. Elite travel camps available.
VENTURA MAKOS SURF CAMP
South Jetty Ventura Harbor
www.venturasurfcamp.com
(805) 312-0713, Jeff Belzer
We are the leaders in ocean safety, with beach lifeguards monitoring all ocean activity in addition to
instructors. Camp runs five days a week from June
18 through August 17, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Camp
includes boards, wetsuits, lifeguards, beach games,
and instruction. Sessions are one week long from
beginners to advanced at $300 a week.
Ocean Adventures is all about fun and not just a
surf camp. Stand-up paddling, kayaking, boogie
boarding, skim boarding, beach volleyball, and
dodgeball are the norm. Counselors are lifeguard /
CPR certified and some are local pros. Snacks and
hot lunch from the Padaro Beach Grill is included.
Campers get a T-shirt and hat as well as other free
goodies! We guarantee the most activities for the
best price!
SANTA BARBARA SURF SCHOOL
Local Carpinteria Area Beaches
www.santabarbarasurfschool.com
(805) 745-8877, Greg Lewis
The camp runs Monday through Friday from 9 a.m.
to 1 p.m., and includes all gear, lunch and camp
T-shirt. The camp is held July 9 to 13 and, August
6 to 10. Three-hour day camps are available all
year long. Enjoy a 90-minute lesson any day of the
week. For reservations, call 805-745-8877.
VAN CURAZA SURF
Avila, Shell, and Pismo Beachs,
Morro Bay, Cayucos
www.vancurazasurfschool.com
(805) 543-SURF, Van Curaza
Van Curaza Surf School is the premier surf school
serving the Central Coast of California. Founded
and run by legendary waterman Van Curaza. We
teach safety in surfing, along with ocean, community and environmental awareness. From first-timers
and beginners to expert surfers, physically to cognitively disabled people, we invite anyone to enjoy a
surfing experience of a lifetime! Your dream to surf
will be fulfilled!
WATERMAN SURF ACADEMY
Good Clean Fun
Cayucos Beach
www.goodcleanfunusa.com
(805) 995-1993, Steve Hennigh
Our instructors will share their many years of experience with you in the most comprehensive school
of surfing on the Central Coast. We are all about
the enjoyment and pure fun of surfing. We specialize in water safety, surf etiquette, and wave riding
techniques. We ensure you are a safe and capable
surfer when you complete our course.
LET US SHOW YOU THE FUN!
Santa Barbara Surf Adventures
Surf & Water Safety Summer Camp
3/)!/#/-.
3$!--%*)!!&
3*.! .! !..!,!$
8 Summer
Surf Camps
Santa Barbara Surf
Adventures Ledbetter
camp is a one week
surf camp geared
towards first time
and beginner surfers.
Soft surf boards will
be provided.
All instructors have CPR
and First Aid Certification
Kids, Adults,
Groups and
Privates
Contest
Coaching
.
PHOTO: DAVID PU’U
Recommended for Ages
8 years and up with basic
swimming skills
! !..!,(+
-&*/. 2) (/'.%(+ %-*/).-
Private
Lifeguard Service
''.*-%#)/+
*,0%-%.
111-).,,-/," 0!)./,!-*(
) ++'%.%*)-0%''!*)'%)!
%.- 1%''!
/
.
!
, ,"* ! /
%
-*".
+,*0
.
.- %)&,
%
$
,
!
2'/)$ %)!"
'
'
%
!
,
$*
",*(
*,%)"*,(.%*)*),0!'(+''
805.312.0713
www.venturasurfcamp.com
Surf School & Camps
The Central Coast’s
Best Surf School
Surfing, Safety
& Fun for All Ages
805-543-SURF (7873)
[email protected]
www.vancurazasurfschool.com
Hot Lunches, Hats,
Shirts, Tattoos & MORE!!!
BY
Daily & Weekly Camps
Surfing - S.U.P. - Kayaking - Volleyball
“More FLOW, For Less Dough!”
Call (805) 684-8803 today!
www.SUMMERBEACHCAMP.com
Learn to Surf Guaranteed!
(805) 745-8877 Greg Lewis Owner/Instructor
santabarbarasurfschool.com || [email protected]
Trippin’ On Ice
Story and PhotoS by Jim Brewer
a sup adventure in europe’s Far north
I spend
hours late at night when everyone in the house is asleep searching Google Earth for countries to surf
that are a little different. Iceland has been on my radar for many years. As a rule I dislike the cold, but the
allure of Iceland was too much to pass up.
The crew for this trip included pro-kiteboarder and big wave-surfer Peter Trow, Silver Strand local Joe Rowan, pro-SUP racer
and surfer Matt Becker, writer and former editor of Surfer Magazine Sam George and myself.
Opposite from top: Sam George cruising down the line. George has surfed all over the world and admitted that this was the most exotic place he has
ever surfed. / Another surreal moment in our travels. The boys taking it all in and trying to process all the beauty of this northern fjord.
Clockwise from top left: Rugged and majestic, the Icelandic horse can stand in gale force winds getting pelted by snow all day. These horses were
bred in Iceland to handle the weather. / Fun little waves like this can be found all over Iceland. There are still hundreds of spots to be discovered.
Peter Trow in the water getting it all on film. / The air temp was in the low teens and the water was almost freezing but no one seemed to notice.
After every wave Joe Rowan would ask me to pinch him so he knew he wasn’t dreaming. / One thing we didn’t expect to find in Iceland was
graffiti art. Downtown Reykjavik. / At first we thought it was a giant cumulus cloud but we quickly realized it was an erupting Volcano only miles
away from us. We stood there and stared at it for hours. It wasn’t long until the international airport closed as well as all roads going east. / This
beach isn’t easy to get to and requires four-wheel drive to even have a chance to find it. Sam George trying to stay warm.
W W W.DeePzIne.cOm
57
58
On May 18, we board Icelandair in Seattle for the flight to the nation’s
capitol, Reykjavik. It’s around midnight during the flight, somewhere
over Greenland, when I look out the window and watch the sun just on
the horizon turning the frozen landscape below a beautiful orange. That’s
as dark as it gets the rest of the trip.
As we near Iceland, I see angry wind-whipped seas and pelting, freezing rain on the wing of the plane. I think we all have that “oh crap” feeling when we peer out the window knowing at some point we’re going to
suit up and get in 38-degree water.
Once we gather all our gear and load up two 4x4 rigs we are now on
our own. We have no guides and very little knowledge of where the surf
is other than some maps. It’s discovering it yourself is that makes the first
time the best.
As we drive away from the airport, which is located on an old NATO
air base in the middle of nowhere, it’s clear this island was formed by giant volcanos and spewing lava flows. It’s like driving on the moon; snowcovered mountains spill down to sweeping ice fields. After getting a little
lost, we spot a dirt road heading to the coast. We finally come out of the
sand dunes and see the surf for the first time, a black sand beach and icy
blue water. Perfect head-high waves and the winds are howling offshore.
We surf late into the night, but it’s still light outside!
We snatch a few hours of sleep, and after a quick breakfast, we’re back
in the cars exploring Iceland. Over the course of the next few days we
find several surf spots in the south. We also mixed in a few frigid inland
rivers and glacier-fed lakes.
Iceland, known as “the land of fire and ice,” didn’t disappoint. We
witnessed a huge volcanic eruption only miles away from us. It closed the
airport for about four days as well as the road heading east. The ash was
thick, making it difficult to breath. It was our cue to head up to the fjords of northern Iceland.
There’s a surf spot in northern Iceland deep in a snowy fjord that I wasn’t sure how to get to. It wasn’t on any surf map, and
nobody who’s been there has given up its location. I saw footage of it on a Taylor Steele film, so I did some homework and marked
it on my map.
On the way there we stop in Raykjavik to talk to one of the few surfers in Iceland. We point to where we’re going on the map
and he gives us a surprised look saying, “That’s a great spot that we don’t tell anybody about.” He says with a smile that we should
get there fast because a swell is on the way. Icelanders are very friendly people. Even with a group of Americans heading to a
sacred spot, this Icelander knew that the country’s remote and harsh conditions would keep its best breaks uncrowded.
We leave Reykjavik and start the 12-hour drive cross-country through the interior of Iceland. It’s one of the most beautiful
drives any of us has ever experienced—massive volcanos covered in snow, deep green valleys with waterfalls and rivers. As we
approach the northern fjords and see the ocean, the first thing we all notice is the clean swell line coming in out of the cold Arctic
Ocean.
We have to get to the next fjord and past a long tunnel, and then we should see the spot we’re looking for. As we approach the
light at the end of the tunnel we get amped knowing no matter what we’re going to look down into the deep fjord and see waves.
And it’s Nirvana. Glassy, corduroy lines peeling off a cobblestone point break with light offshores and, of course, nobody in
the water. The backdrop is a massive snow-covered peak. It’s going to be a once in a lifetime experience.
We rush down to the bottom of the fjord where Rowan, Becker and George suit up and break the ice. I start taking photos,
thinking to myself, “I’m in heaven.” Trow starts filming, and after a few hours we join the fray. For two perfect days we have the
most exotic surf experience of our lives. This trip is officially deemed a success.
Opposite clockwise from top left: Hot tub and beer with friends after surfing all day in icy cold water. Doesn’t get any better than this. / Matt Becker
testing the frigid waters of Northern Iceland. Becker was always the first one in the water and the last one out. / George getting the hot tip on
another possible surf location from the one and only local surfer in Northern Iceland. / There are thousands of rivers in Iceland but what made
this one unique was the tall trees near the shore. Trees are a rare site in Iceland. / Looking like some kind of arctic ninjas the boys explore the
strange surroundings of this southern Iceland lagoon.
Above: If there is a heaven on Earth we found it this day. Solid lines coming in straight out of the Arctic Sea.
w w w.DEEpzINE.coM
59
TOP ROW BY DuBOck.cOm
DEEP Surf Magazine
Appreciation Celebration
Photos by Fran Collin
D
EEP Surf Magazine hosted an “Appreciation Celebration” on Saturday, March 3 at the Santa
Barbara Maritime Museum. Over 300 guests were treated to amazing food, good beer and
insanely good music by The Kicks.
Nothing but good vibes from Central Coast surfers, business owners, writers and photographers filled the inside of the Maritime Museum. DEEP Surf Magazine was honored that so many
people showed up to show their support of the magazine and to have a good time.
The Kicks got everyone moving on the dance floor and beer was provided by Island Brewing
Company, Anacapa Brewing Company, Ventura Surf Brewery, Central Coast Brewing Company and
Firestone.
Plenty of raffle prizes from Arbor, Beach Break Surf Shop, Betty B., Blueline Paddle Surf, Happy
Endingz, Homegrown Surf Shop, Pablo’s Surf, J7 Surfboards, Oakley, Quiksilver, Revolution, Rincon
Designs, Sex Wax, Sundance Beach, Surf Connection, Surf Country, Trek, Wavetribe, Wetsand Surf
Shop, Island Brewing Company, Sporting Sails, Walden Surfboards and Komunity Project were given
away all night.
Also, Santa Barbara Surfrider Foundation and Save Naples, were on hand spreading the word
and the food was provided by Wahoo’s Fish Taco, Olas Mex Grill in Camarillo and Endless Summer.
The teens from Project Save our Surf were on hand to cater to everyone’s hunger needs.
Special thanks to Mike Lazaro of Carpinteria Events for helping with the show!
“We want to thank everyone that has supported the magazine over the past five years and to
everyone who attended and had an amazing time. DEEP Surf Mag is truly ‘YOUR Central Coast Surf
Magazine!,’” said director Andres Nuño.
60
Top row, from left, the Homegrown Surf Shop
crew hanging out. / Peter and Christina Dugré. /
Barney Berglund and Tania Wagner. / Jon and Kari
Shafer. / Rincon Designs representing. / DEEP
editor Chuck Graham with wife Lori. / Wayne
Rich, Max McDonald, John and Terry Conroy.
Second row, from left, Scooter and Laura Jean. /
Bill and Rosana Swing. / Van Curaza and Amanda
Kline. / Butch Aharonian and Rob Allison. /
Darcy Patterson, Becky Van Wingerden, Erica
Oxenham, Brittany Scott. / Kevin Steele. / Josh
Pomer. Third row from left, Homegrown Surf
Shop crew. / Paul Calderon and Walter Winters. /
Mike McCabe and Nicole Frank. / Liz, Jacky and
John Perry. /Adam Lambert and Cole Robbins./
Clint and Meghan Olsen. / Bill Tover. Fourth row
from left, Anne Lowery, Justin Derby and Kevin
Delaney. / Dan Hamlin, Allie and Paul Smith. /
Anthony and Lea Vega, with Holyn in tow. / Kalin
and Matt Sparks. / Tim McNicol and Ray Lucke.
/ Nick Marvis, Lindsey Lieberknecht, Betty Lloyd
and Joe Dubbs. / J7 mob. At right, front row,
from left, Lara Kelly, Jimmy Mesta and Lindsey
McManus./ Doug Norton, Michael Kew and
Greg Tally. / L. Paul Mann. / Clint Harbers and
Jennifer Blonder./ Brittany Lacerte and Andrea
Lacey. / Dylan Smith, Kelsey Ferguson and Aaron
Crouse. / Katie Shepherd and Jason Lesh. Second
row, from left, Gary Dobbins and Lynda Lang. /
Erin Lennon and John Vanderhovf. / Mike Zuleger
and Kimberly Mead / Danielle Siano. / Michael
Sheehy and Mark Matthews. / Brittany Lacerne,
Andrea Lacey, Andres Nuño, Brianna Russell and
Jennifer Kono. / DEEP publisher Michael VanStry,
Nuño, Russell and publisher Dobbins. Third row,
from left, Putnam family. / Rincon Designs in the
house! / James McDonald, Max McDonald and
Sean O’Connor. / DD. / Happy Endingz girls.
Raging. Dubock.com
w w w.deepzine.com
61
Deep collage. Dubock.com
/ Ken, Brooke and Jennifer Talt-Lundin. / The
Kicks. Continued from page 61, fourth row from
left, Tarik Khashoggi, Mikey Billgren and Tom
ellington. / Sean O’Toole, Mary Osborne, Justin
Bastien and Brooke Johnson. / Lovely Cruzita and
Krystal Martinez. / Joshua and Cortney Hyman. /
Deanna Rivetti and Kim White. / Gabe Venturelli.
/ Weston, Dave and Blaine Nielsen.
Below, top row, from left, family. / Kim Mead and
Lori Graham. / Glenn Dubock. / Horn section.
/ Laura Holman and Heidi Marchesano. / Jason
and Kris Whittenton. / el Borde in the house.
Second row from left, Nate and Brittany Olander
pouring Firestone. / Ahoy. / Jimmy Gahan. /
Cheers. / Island Brew and Ventura Surf Brewery
station. / pSOS. / Raffle winner. / Third row from
left, Janey Cinzori. / And the winner is. / Good
times. / preston Berk, Hannah Johnson and Julie
Cox. / Dave, Anna elbeck and Anisha Koepenick.
/ Natasha Michaelis, Bo Stanley, Carolina
Koepenick, Maile Floyd, Katy phillips. / Tocayo.
Fourth row, from left, erica Oxenham, Darcy
patterson and Matthew Zeltzer. / Matt Moore and
Rincon Designs staff. / All smiles. / Friends. / Bad
News Bearers. /That’s right! / Crystal Vaughan
and Warner Anderson.
Fifth row from left, Mary Osborne, Brooke
Johnson and Christen Huff. / Jefe, Susu and Cruz
with kids. / Tough Timmy. / Michael Jimenez. /
Micah Brachman. / Michael Clair. / Rizzo and
Oliver parker.
Shafer
Shafer
Above, top row, from left, Demi, Rizzo and
friend. / Sierra Partridge and Christen Huff.
/ Christel Witt and James Marshall. / Reese
Galido. / Jonathan Pu’u, Amanda Roderick,
David Pu’u, Donna Von Hoesslin, Mary
Osborne and Matthew Zeltzer. / Oceane and
Anna. / Michael Van Stry and Alex Smith.
Second row, from left, Josh Louda, Haley
Thomas and friend. / Partyingwith Central
Coast Brewing. / Sarah Wilcox, Alex Smith
and Mark Olsen. / Michael Galtress. / Lauren
Leckrone and Alma Billgren. / Ladies. /
Primetime. Third row, from left, Evan
Trauntvein. / Elliot Soto and Shane Prukop.
/ John Palminteri. / Lindsey McManus, Katie
Shepherd and Alma Billgren. / Get it girl. /
Lindsey Connolly and Ty and Becca Smith.
/ Save Naples and Santa Barbara Surfrider
Foundation. Fourth row from left, Natasha
Michaelis, Drake Stanley and Cassity Ming.
/ Marleen Seegers and Derek Dodds. /
Sonia and Jason Kline with Kaia. / Demi
Boelsterli and Bryan Schmidt. / Betsy and
Dan Webber. / Billy Smith and Christen
Huff. Fifth row, from left, Cheryl and Chris
Garcia. / Happy guests. / Surf beat Galerie.
/ Scooter and Trevor. / Dr. Brent and Dr.
Andrea Neal. / Gabe Manuel and Crystal
Vaughn. / John Villela.
Jon Shafer
Music & Entertainment
From left: Shaun Tomson with
“Splinters” director Adam Pesce. The
Bones Brigade team. Stacey Peralta.
World Class documentaries Showcase at SBiFF
Story and Photos by L. Paul Mann
The 27Th AnnuAl Santa Barbara International Film Festival featured a fabulous lineup of adventure sports documentaries. As in years passed, there
was an emphasis in surfing and skateboard films with local ties. Two films in particular stood out, both of which are receiving worldwide accolades.
SplinterS
Directed by Santa Barbara
filmmaker, Adam Pesce, “Splinters” is
a documentary with a storyline that
revolves around a small community
of surfers in Papua New Guinea.
The film is built around the daily
lives of young surfers in the village of
Vanimo who have dreams of competing in the country’s first national
3785
Santa Claus Ln.
Carpinteria
805.684.8803
surfing championship. Although the
film is centered around surfing at
the excellent year-round surf break
that graces the shores of the remote
village, “Splinters” is not really a surfing film at all, but more of a brilliant
cultural documentary.
The film explores the cultural
clash between traditional village
society in the remote countryside of
Open daily
10-6 pm
FULL SERVICE
SURF SHOP
surfboard Rentals • surf Lessons • summer surf camp
Papua New Guinea, and the Western
wave of modern society leeching into
the villagers’ daily lives. In the nine
months that Pesce lived in the village
and filmed his story, he was able to
document the local society in a way
that a team of cultural anthropologists with a university grant could not
duplicate with years of research.
In a Q&A after the screening at
the Arlington Theatre, hosted by
former world champion surfer Shaun
Tomson, Pesce talked about the
difficult process of making the film.
He first visited the area as a United
Nations intern. His passion for surfing brought him to the tiny village to
enjoy the impressive surf break. But
he became so fascinated by the local
culture, he returned for an extended
nine-month stay to film “Splinters.”
The film deals with difficult local
issues like domestic and clan violence, and at times filming became a
dangerous and delicate challenge. But
somehow the filmmaker was able to
blend into the local culture and produce an honest and intriguing documentary. The film has racked up an
impressive portfolio of International
awards already. Visit www.splintersmovie.com for more information.
BoneS Brigade

BILLABONG
SURF CAPSULE
Perfect for Local Waters!
2mm Cheeky Spring Suit
Front Zip. $79.50
Made by Dawn
64
DeeP SuRF MAGAZIne May/June 2012
www.AFrameSurf .com
The documentary, directed by Santa
Barbara’s most famous skateboard
industry entrepreneur, Stacey Peralta,
takes us through the evolution of
skateboarding as a professional sport.
The film focuses on the “Bones
Brigade,” a team of six young teen
skating sensations managed by Peralta
in the 1980s. The film also tells the
bigger story about the evolution of
the sport. Key figures from idols to
outcasts were represented.
Coming from a sold premiere
at the Sundance Film Festival, the
skaters, who were just teenagers
when they began their mercurial
rise to stardom, reminisce about the
emotional and physical pressures that
came to bear on such young athletes.
The documentary brilliantly
intersperses contemporary interviews
with key players in the early days of
professional skateboard competition,
and classic footage of the stunts and
tricks that made them famous.
The Bones Brigade featured
Tony Hawk, Rodney Mullen, Steve
Caballero, Lance Mountain, Tommy
Guerrero, and Mike McGill, a pack
of goofy, nerdy kids who went on to
invent some of the most innovative
and dramatic skating techniques. The
film also interviews the more hipster
rival skaters of the time and illustrates the intensity of the competition
among the brash young athletes.
The film eloquently illustrates the
rise of the skateboard industry as a
viable business and all that went into
creating a technical and artistic company that became the Powell-Peralta
brand name.
Visit www.bonesbrigade.com for
more information.
Music & Entertainment
Above: Jake Shimabukuro. Right: Shimabukuro with local students.
Jake Shimabukuro Plays at
Carpinteria Plaza Theater
Story and Photos by L. Paul Mann
T
he non-profit Carpinteria Plaza Playhouse Theater has become
the Santa Barbara areas’ newest live music venue. The small 83year-old movie house has recently been remodeled as a community
playhouse and concert hall. The theater sits in the center of
downtown, in the little beach town of Carpinteria.
Originally named The Alcazar, the theater was built in 1928 by Henry
J. Muller and run by Hollywood movie star Oliver Prickett, famous for his
movie roles in the “Ma and Pa Kettle” series.
Jake Shimabukuro, master of the ukelele, played the first big show of
2012 in the 200-seat theater on February 13. The maniacal ukelele master
has become a well known name in the Indy pop music world over the last
few years, playing relentlessly at big festivals, like Bonnaroo, to smaller venues like the Plaza Playhouse.
Shimabukuro is also well known for working with nonprofit music associations and is the spokesman for the Music Is Good Medicine Organization,
which led him to his gig at The Playhouse. The masterful musician embraced
the sold out crowd and praised the superb acoustics of the structure. The
sound at the venue benefits from a near-perfect acoustic geometry with
low ceilings and solid square walls. Local rock veteran Brian Auger, master
of the Hammond B3 organ, was so taken with the quality of sound in the
theater that he has become the de facto volunteer sound engineer.
Shimbakuro gave Auger frequent kudos during his extended concert,
featuring two sets of some of his well known classic covers like, Queens
“Bohemian Rhapsody,” and newer material reflecting his Hawaiian roots.
Shimabukuro is most famous for his explosive renditions of rock classics,
where he can be heard playing lead and rhythm sections at the same time
by strumming with one hand while picking strings with the other. But his
musical career began in a much more traditional mode, playing the ukelele
in the traditional style of his native Hawaii with the group Pure Heart.
The ukelele master had an appreciative crowd enthralled with renditions
of classics like George Harrison’s “While My Guitar Gently Weeps,” creating
a huge crescendo of sound with his tiny instrument. Many in the crowd drove
hours to join lucky Carpinterians for the very special show. In fact Shimabukuro gave a shout out to one Japanese couple who had apparently flown in
from Japan to attend the show.
In keeping with the community spirit of the venue, local brewery Island
Brewing Company and a local winery donated drinks to be sold during
the fundraiser. After the nearly three-hour concert, a gleeful Shimabukuro
hung out in the lobby for another hour to greet fans, sign autographs and
patiently pose for pictures.
I had a chance to chat with him about the first time I experienced one
of his concerts. It was at the 2008 Bonnaroo Music Festival in Tennessee. I
was hanging out in the beer tent far in front of the massive main stage while
Metallica played their ear shattering three-hour marathon set. As the veteran
metal band ended their show, I noticed a little guy with a ukelele setting up
his equipment on the tiny stage of the beer tent. Suddenly, Shimabukuro
erupted in a frenzied flaying wall of sound and Metallica fans began flocking to the little stage to hear the Jimmy Hendrix of the ukelele play a set.
Shimabukuro smiled at the memory and noted that he played louder at
that show than any he could remember. He also indicated that he was
ready to return to Bonnaroo anytime
that they want him back. The concert
at the Plaza Playhouse was a huge
success and several big name acts
are in the works for upcoming shows.
Even buying tickets at the venue can
be an unexpected pleasure, with no
fees of any kind.
You can purchase tickets directly
at the box office or online using Paypal, The only downside to the remarkable venue is that tickets sell out fast as local residents know a good thing
when they see it.
For more information about the venue visit plazatheatercarpinteria.com.
Topless Blonde, Topless Red or Topless Brewnette
Mention this ad and get
Happy Hour Prices
on any of
“The Girl’s Beers”
Have what it takes to be a CCB Beer Girl?
Send a pic to [email protected]!
VISIT OUR TASTING ROOM!!!
“HOME OF THE 5 FOR $5”
1422 Monterey St.
San Luis Obispo
805.783.BREW
www.centralcoastbrewing.com
w w w.deepzine.com
65
Green Room
Will The Real ECO Board
Please Stand Up?
By Derek Dodds
T
he conventional
surfboard is made from
resin, foam, fiberglass,
and paint. You won’t
find these products in
the organic section of the
surfboard builder’s shop—all four
elements are derived from petroleum
and manufactured by the chemical
industry. Thus, the main instrument
of surfing, the surfboard, is an
ecological travesty. In it lies the
dilemma of a surfer that strives to be
environmentally responsible.
There is one surfboard out there,
however, that rises to the top of the
eco list. In fact, it is the most ecological alternative available to surfers:
the Alaia.
An Alaia is made from wood
and requires none of the above
petroleum-based materials. Even
though working with wood is much
different than working with foam,
while shaping this eco sled the basic
concepts remain the same. You need
to draw the outline, cut out the basic
shape, put in the rails, scoop the
nose for rocker, and finish the board
with multiple grades of sandpaper.
Slap on some linseed oil and you’re
ready to ride. Brad Tucker from
Wood Surfboard Supply says people
can make them easily with hardly
any tools and recently proclaimed,
“the quick build makes them really
fun to shape.”
Working with wood really changes the shaper’s perspective. Mowing
through Polystyrene (the most common foam surfboard blank) is like
taking a chemical bath, but shaping
an Alaia is like raking the leaves in
your yard. Which do you prefer?
Jon Wegener, one of the modern
day Alaia legends, wrote that he
finds it joyful to shape wood and not
use any resin or fiberglass to make
66
a great-riding surfboard, and that
this has made an imprint on his
board making.
Most Alaias are made from
Paulowina wood blanks, but other
lighter wood can also be used. The
Paulowina wood shapes easily, as
its softness allows the planer to
move through it gracefully.
Indigenous to China, Paulowina has been cultivated for 2,000
years. Most Paulowina species grow
very fast and can reach heights of
30 to 60 feet in 15 years, growing
up to 10 to 20 feet per year under
ideal conditions—it’s the bamboo
of trees.
Once the trees are harvested
they regenerate from their existing root system, earning them the
name Phoenix tree. That’s cool, no?
Paulowina has the ability to reclaim
ecologically stressed and degenerate patches of land. The root system
can penetrate complex soil environments, turning wasteland into
regenerative forest, kind of like an
eco angel.
Paulowina is great for surfboards
because it has a good weight-tostrength ratio, being lighter than
hardwood but more durable than
balsa. It also absorbs less water than
many other types of wood and
therefore does not need a resin or
glass finish, which makes it super
ecological—though you could glass
it if you wanted.
The Alaia, like anything made of
wood, is 100 percent biodegradable.
Originally from Hawaii, the
Alaia is part of the Hawaiian surfing heritage. The original boards
were between 7 andto 12 feet long,
weighed up to 100 -pounds and
were made from the wood Acacia
Koa.
Surfing was a recreational
An unknown surfer cutting on an Alaia at Rincon.
pastime in early Hawaiian culture.
Everyone took part in it, chiefs and
villagers alike. It developed over
generations, and board builders held
a special place in the hierarchy of the
village. The early Hawaiian shapers
used sharpened stone to carve the
boards and sharkskin to sand them
smooth. They oiled their boards
with natural plant oils to keep them
in good condition. It took those
early shapers months to build a
board, and that board would last its
owner a lifetime. Quite frequently,
the boards would be handed down
to the next generation in the family
or sometimes buried with the owner,
thus allowing surfers to continue
their passion in the afterlife. If you
could take one board with you to
that great swell in the sky, which
would you take?
It’s a complex activity to ride
an Alaia. It is hard to get them on
a plane and even more difficult to
actually stand up on them. It takes,
well, persistence. Alaia shaper Mike
Yannelli put it nicely, “one foam
shaper I know calls them non-functional, but if you don’t give up the
reward of riding one is incredible,
the glide is unreal.” Dave O’Reilly
from Surfing Green in Australia
wrote in to say that there is a lot of
satisfaction in riding something that
you have built, be it foam or wood,
but he has found Alaias particularly
rewarding because they are quite
difficult to ride: “The greatest satis-
Dubock.com
faction in things comes from them
being harder to do and learning how
to do it—patience, and you will
become a great Alaia rider.”
Alaia is a Basque girl’s name,
meaning joy and happiness. This is
exactly how you’ll feel when you finish shaping one and then get to ride
your very own eco creation.
I’ d love to hear your comments
and feedback. For more information
on ecology, surfing and stoke please
write to [email protected] or look
for me on an Alaia around Ventura
County beaches.
Below: Jon Wegener, a modern-day
Alaia legend.
DoDDs
s
Green Room
God Save the Queen
By Kara Petersen
T
hough I am an avid beachgoer and ocean lover, I am admittedly
not a surfer. I can count the number of times I’ve paddled out at
Rincon on one hand, and none of them were pretty. However,
having grown up in Carpinteria, the legends of El Rinconada del
Mar loomed large in my mind. With its mythical Chumash history and
modern surfing lore, it has always been a special place to me and many,
many others.
Now, the Save the Waves Coalition and Carpinteria City Council woman
Kathleen Reddington are working together to ensure that Rincon will continue
to be a special place for many generations to come. “I’m saving the wave not
only for my daughter and her grandchildren but for all generations to follow.
What we can give to the future is a treasure,” Reddington said.
Founded in 2001 by local Will Henry, the Save the Wave Coalition (STW)
is a global non-profit working to protect coastlines around the world. The concept was born on a return trip to the island of Madeira just south of Portugal,
where Henry heard about plans to build a marina directly on top of a perfect
point break. Henry and the locals were dismayed as they helplessly watched
bulldozers create a seawall, the backwash of which destroyed the wave.
“The program was born from a desire to show the world that surf spots
have an inherent value,” said Henry. “They have such enormous social and
economic values.”
Surfers are intuitively drawn to the precious peaks rising out of the ocean.
They understand the perfect storm of conditions, from the ancient geological
formations beneath the ocean to the weather patterns above it that line up in
perfect harmony to form these natural treasures.
In 2009, STW joined forces with National Surfing Reserves Australia and
the International Surfing Association to launch World Surfing Reserves (WSR).
In the past three years they have worked with local grassroots organizations
and government leaders to create two Designated World Surfing Reserves:
Malibu, Calif. andwEriceira, Portugal.
The designation process is not quick or easy. A nomination/application gets
things started then is followed by the selection process, which culminates in a
formal, public dedication ceremony and is followed by ongoing monitoring
and management.
Enter Councilwoman Reddington, a self-proclaimed clumsy surfer, paddler
and swimmer who has spent years researching the history of Rincon while
enjoying the ocean playground with her 17-year-old daughter, an avid surfer.
After reading about WSR in an article in The Santa Barbara Independent, she
picked up the phone and called Henry.
Two more approved reserves have been dedicated this year. On March
10, Kelly Slater helped Australia NSW Governor Marie Bashir dedicate Manly
Beach, Australia. At the time this story goes to press another dedication is
scheduled for WSR Santa Cruz on April 28.
With four breaks already dedicated, WSR is setting its sights on our backyard. Both Reddington and Henry are hoping that Rincon will be dedicated
in 2013, but there is much work to do to make that happen. After applying
and being selected, each WSR location creates a Local Stewardship Council
to implement and manage that reserve. While Rincon is in the application
process, Reddington is working steadily to gain support from local surfers and
Rincon gets international notoriety as a World Surfing Reserve.
Nick PresNiakov
politicians alike.
Growing up a few minutes north of “The Con,” I’ve always treated the spot
with a reverence reserved for special places. What I didn’t realize until speaking with Reddington was just how many threats there still are to our queen.
According to a press release from the Environmental Defense Center, Carone Oil, in its proposed Carpinteria Oil and Gas project, has instigated the
permitting process to drill from the existing platform Hogan. The slant drilling
operation would add 25 new wells off the coast of Carpinteria.
The EDC has filed concerns on the behalf of local organizations such as
Carpinteria Valley Association, Get Oil Out! and the Los Padres Sierra Club.
One of the primary concerns is the use of aging facilities; the safety of the
45-year-old oil platform has been called into question. The Carone proposal
would increase oil production from 219 barrels a day to 3,500 barrels a day,
PROTECT YOUR
HOME & PROPERTY
Kitchen Hood Systems
Fire Suppression Systems
Fire Pumps, Hoses, Nozzles
Fire Sprinklers / Extinguishers
Wildland Property Assessment
Fire Protection Gels, Foams, Paints
“Your Fire Protection Connection since 1978”
" ""ãwww.JOYEQUIPMENT.com
W W W.deepzine.com
67
Final Frame I brought to you by The Endless Summer Bar-Cafe
Tr ev or
68
in g th roug h
G ordon follow
MES FORTMAN
at R incon. JA
Rincon Designs
“CLOSEST SHOP TO THE CON”
team rider.
Over 20
Swimsuit
Brands
lars rathje
Burritos
Chimichangas
Fajitas
Nachos
Quesadillas
Soups
Tacos
Tostadas
Huge Beer Selection
Weekend Breakfast
PHOTO: HOUSTON
in Stock
Anisha Koepenick in
Happy Endingz.
1860 Ventura Blvd., Camarillo
(805) 484-5566 • OlasMexGrill.com
Facebook: Olas Mex Grill
Custom Matt Moore Surfboards
www.RINCONDESIGNS.net
659 Linden Ave. • Carpinteria • 805.684.2413
Family Owned and Operated Since 1980 • SHOP ONLINE NOW!
S A N TA B A R B A R A
CALIFORNIA
Happy Hour
Margaritas
$
Happy Hour
Weekdays
4
3 to 6:30pm
Pupus $6
Pool Tables
with
a View
Drafts
Free
Popcorn
All Day
4
$
Live Music
6PM
OPEN DAILY 11:30 AM
113 HARBOR WAY • BY THE BOATS • endlesssummerbarcafe.net • 805-564-4666
Final Frame II brought to you by Anacapa Brewing Co.
One paw over. Bill Tover
ANACAPA BREWING CO.
Ventura’s ONLY Restaurant & Brewery
Come in and enjoy one of our Mouth Watering, Handcrafted Beers on Tap
Open Daily, 11:30 am • 472 E. Main Street • 805-643-2337 • anacapabrewing.com
70
One paw over. Bill Tover
King of the Beach Volleyball Exhibition
Santa Barbara, CA
Team rider: Pomai Hoapili photo: Tim McKenna
24 East Mason Street
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
805.845.5606
www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com
Jupiter, FL
997 North A1A
Jupiter, FL 33477
561.744.7474
www.bluelinepaddlesurf-fl.com

DEEP2012 May June Ch1 p01_11 v6.indd

Transcription

Similar documents

Bulk Whole Foods - Your Coastal Connection

Come Surfing with Plantation Island Resort

Ericeira Surfinn Surf House

Pdf brochure - SurferDream

the banana boat bronte junior ocean swim

Travel.yahoo.com - AU

Beginner Surf and Stay Packages 7 days – 6 nights

Drift - Australia`s South West

November / December 2011

Written by Lori Sanders COWabunga! The second annual Surf and