Congratulations to the following 2015 ABL

Transcription

Rhode Island’s only trade magazine and comprehensive online resource
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AUGUST2015
FEATURES
14
Association News
Dale Venturini gives perspective on the state of the
hospitality industry.
16
Beer Column
Smoked beer offers an unusual taste profile.
24
16
On Premise Advice
Summer isn’t over. Make sure you are ready for the
changing season, now.
25
Cocktail Corner
Rising to the occasion with Jonathan Pogash.
28
Splendid Blended
Soft, fruity and playful, the new genre of Red Blends
is making its mark.
34
Mezcal on the Cusp
The wild agave spirit is becoming the bartender’s
best friend.
24
28
34
August 2015 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL 3
AUGUST2015
38
Bourbon on Top
The bourbon craze is no fluke, and it continues to go upscale.
44
Bordeaux Blueprint
38
Selling wines from this iconic region can pose challenges—but
the effort pays off.
46
Valuing Burgundy
High prices are old news; Burgundy’s quality surge has created
pockets of real value.
50
Bark Talk
Blake Pope keeps up with the storied kitchen at Kindred
in Davidson, NC.
44
50
46
DEPARTMENTS
5 Market Point
6 News Front
8 Around Town
LIQUOR BRAND INDEX
WINE BRAND INDEX
17 The Find
18 New Products & Promotions
20 Wine Buzz
BEER BRAND INDEX
SHOPPING NETWORK
Page 1a
THE INDEX
The largest compilation of beverage alcohol price and brand information.
4 RHODE ISLAND BEVERAGE JOURNAL August 2015
22 Retail Review
26 Serving Up
HOW B
E E R, W
INE
AN D S
PI R
G ET TO ITS
MAR KE TH E
TPLAC
E
See www.thebeveragejournal.com for online product access
RHODE ISLAND
BE VER AGE JOURNAL
VOLUME
79
No 8
AUGUST
{ ISSN
2015
0035-4652 }
What’s hotter than August? The beer, wine, and spirits
marketplace. Check out this month’s issue for trends, new
products and selling strategies.
PUBLISHER
GERALD P. SLONE
[email protected]
E D I T O R & A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R
°
Red blends are the cover story, proving that, just like summer, the market for
these complex wines is heating up.
°
Both Bordeaux and Burgundy feature prominently in separate wine-centric
stories, as well as new offerings in “Wine Buzz.”
°
The bourbon category is red-hot, and being led by its high-end bottlings. The
story outlines key brands in the race for market share.
°
In bar trends, Mezcal is a small but cultishly popular, and growing, category.
“Cocktail Corner” showcases Jonathan Pogash, The Cocktail Guru, with
cocktails for all occasions. “Serving Up” offers seasonal local sips.
°
“On Premise Advice” talks about keeping the bar and its offerings fresh as a
new season is rolling in.
°
Let’s not forget beer: smoked beer. Ready to sell it?
°
Plus, local faces and places in “Around Town.” It may be summer, but the action
never stops…and neither do we! Turn the pages for this and more.
DANA SLONE
[email protected]
DIRECTOR OF WHOLESALER SERVICES
LAURIE BUICK
[email protected]
S U B S C R I P T I O N / R E TA I L S E R V I C E S
BRIAN SLONE
[email protected]
DESIGN
EVAN FRASER
[email protected]
E D I T O R I A L A D M I N I S T R AT O R
SAVANNAH MUL
[email protected]
WRITERS
LAUREN DALEY
BOB SAMPLE
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Published Monthly By: The Rhode Island Beverage
Journal; 2508 Whitney Avenue, P.O. Box 185159; Hamden,
CT 06518 is devoted to all liquor, wine and beer licensees.
Nothing may be reproduced or uploaded without written
permission from the publisher. This includes articles,
pictures, pdf files, online or electronic versions. Not
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The opinions expressed here are that of the individual
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Island Beverage Journal. We reserve the right to reject
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O N T HE
C OVE R
Photograph by Jason Hughes
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N EWSF R ONT
F R E D E R I C K W I LD M A N A N D SO N S N A M E S N E W
M A N AG E M E NT LI N E U P
L A S DA TO LE A D H E I N E K E N US A N ATI O N A L
AC C O U NT S TE A M
John Sellar was named as the new
President of Frederick Wildman and
Sons, Ltd., in a June announcement by
Corrado Casoli, Wildman’s Chairman
of the Board. Previously, Sellar served as
Vice President of Wildman’s Wholesale
Division and has been with the company
since 1997. Benjamin Kirschner replaces Sellar as the new
Director of Sales for the Wholesale Division in NYC and NJ. Bill
Seawright, Vice President Northern Division Manager, will now
manage the 30-person U.S. sales force as Vice President, National
Sales Manager.
Heineken USA hired Bridget Lasda,
former Vice President of Sales for the
Coca-Cola Company, as Vice President
of National Accounts, beginning July
27. Lasda had been with Coca-Cola for
13 years, most recently as head of the
Target account. Previously, she held
leadership roles in operations, sales and
category development, serving as Vice President of Category
Commercialization for Coca-Cola’s water, tea, coffee and
venturing and emerging brands.
E D R I N GTO N A M E R I C A S N A M E S M A R K E TI N G ,
F I N A N C I A L E X E C UTI V E S
Edrington Americas announced
appointments to its senior executive
team in North American Marketing.
Christopher Spalding, previously
Vice President, Division ManagerNortheast USA was promoted to Senior Vice President, Commercial
Director, North America. Jim Brennan, Vice President, Marketing
for North America, was promoted to Senior Vice President,
Marketing Director-North America. Michael Misiorski, previously
Chief Financial Officer of both Stoli Group USA and Bacardi
North America, joined Edrington with the same title. Edrington
Americas is led by President and CEO, Paul Ross.
K LE I N P RO M OTE D TO C FO AT
C O N S TE LL ATI O N B R A N DS
Constellation Brands, Inc. announced
that David Klein has been promoted
to Executive Vice President and Chief
Financial Officer, replacing Bob Ryder.
As the new CFO, Klein will join
Constellation’s Executive Management
Committee and report directly to Rob
Sands, President and Chief Executive
Officer. Klein joined Constellation in 2004, and most recently
served as CFO for the company’s beer division. His previous
roles with Constellation include SVP, Treasurer and Controller
as well as CFO for the company’s former European business.
Prior to his tenure at Constellation, Klein held title of CFO at
Montana Mills.
DISCUS SHOWCASES AMERICAN SPIRITS
IN FR ANCE
The
Distilled
Spirits
Council of the United
States sponsored an export
promotion at Vinexpo 2015
in Bordeaux, France from
June
14-18,
showcasing
American distilled spirit
products in one of the
industry’s top trade shows.
The Council participated in The Spirits Business’ “Spiritual
Bar” booth, and partnered with the U.S. Bartenders Guild
for an educational seminar for convention attendees
that highlighted the global resurgence of the cocktail, an
American invention, along with the unique heritage and style
of American spirits.
NEW CHAIRMAN APPOINTED TO MOLSON
COORS BOARD
Geoff Molson, a member of the Molson
Coors Board of Directors, was appointed
Chairman on June 3. Pete Coors, the
past Chairman, will assume the role
of Vice President. The by-laws for the
Board of Directors state the chairman
and the vice chairman alternate between
the Molson and Coors families on
a two-year rotating basis. Molson has served the board since
December 2009.
N EWSF R ONT
A N H E US E R - B US C H W I LL I N V E S T $1. 5 B I LLI O N
I N O P E R ATI O N S
Anheuser-Busch will invest $1.5 billion in
its U.S. brewing, agriculture, packaging
and distributing operations by 2018. All
the investments made will support future
growth of its brands, along with the U.S.
communities that operate through local
spending and jobs. Anheuser-Busch plans to spend about $850
million on brewery and packaging expansions, $220 million on
product innovation and about $720 million on increasing the
efficiency of its existing footprint.
among other brands. Sidney Frank Importing Co. staffs more
than 175 full-time employees and has a network of distributors
and brokers throughout the United States. Mast-Jägermeister
SE is a privately held corporation whose shares are held by the
Findel-Mast family.
DIAGEO NORTH AMERICA ANNOUNCES
E XECUTIVE APPOINTMENTS
Brown-Forman sales and operating income increased
during its fourth quarter, fiscal year ending April
30, 2015. For the full year there was a four-percent
increase in net sales to $4.096 billion, a six-percent
gain to $1.027 billion reported in operating income.
Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey grew net sales by 28
percent, as well as other Jack Daniel’s brands that
grew net sales by eight-percent.
Deirdre Mahlan has been appointed
to serve as President for Diageo
North America. She will replace Larry
Schwartz, who is retiring by the end
of the year. Mahlan will continue in
her role as Chief Financial Officer
until then. Diageo also appointed
Tom Looney to President of U.S.
Open and Control States. He previously was the President of
Diageo Guinness USA. Jeff Ivey will expand in his role of
Chief Commercial Officer to leadership of National Accounts
and Commercial Capabilities. Tom Day, who is currently the
Senior Vice President of Sales for Diageo Guinness USA, was
promoted to President for Diageo Guinness USA. He will join
the North America Executive Team.
C A S TLE B R A N DS AN N O U N C E K E NTU C K Y
D I S TI LLE RY I N V E S TM E NT
US BG N A M E S 2015 N ATI O N A L BA R TE N D E R O F
TH E Y E A R
Castle Brands recently purchased about
20 percent of Copperhead Distillery
Company, which owns and operates
the Kentucky Artisan Distillery. This
investment was part of an ongoing
agreement to construct a new warehouse
to store Jefferson’s bourbons and provide
distilling capabilities, as well as build a new visitor center
and store dedicated to building the Jefferson’s brand.
The United States Bartender’s Guild
(USBG) and Diageo World Class
has named New York City bartender
Tyson Buhler as the 2015 Bartender
of the Year. The competition
brings together the country’s best
bartenders with the ultimate goal of
representing the U.S. at the global
competition. Judges included 2014
global winner Charles Joly, 2013
U.S. winner Jeff Bell, 2012 U.S. winner Ricky Gomez and
National President of the USBG David Nepove. They were
joined by internationally-acclaimed industry icons including
Tony Abou-Ganim, Dale DeGroff, Jacques Bezuidenhout,
Jim Meehan, Steve Olson and Julie Reiner.
B ROW N - FO R M A N R E P O R T S 2015 P RO F IT S
MAST-JÄGERMEISTER TO ACQUIRE SIDNEY
FRANK IMPORTING
Germany’s Mast-Jägermeister SE is acquiring
U.S.-based Sidney Frank Importing Co. for an
undisclosed sum. The New Rochelle, New Yorkbased importer markets Jägermeister, Gekkeikan
Sake, Barenjäger liqueur, which is also owned
by Mast-Jägermeister, American Harvest Vodka,
Monkey 47 Dry Gin and Casamigos Tequila,
A RO U N DTOW N
WARWICK RETAILER HOSTS 50 CENT FOR EFFEN
VODKA BOTTLE SIGNING
1
2
3
4
In June, Grammy Award-winning rapper and Connecticut
resident Curtis Jackson III, a.k.a. 50 Cent, visited I.M.
Gan Discount Liquors in Warwick accompanied by special
guest, Vinny Pazienza. Hundreds of fans lined the block
leading up to the bottle signing. Effen Vodka is imported
from Holland by Beam Suntory USA and comes in Original,
Black Cherry, Cucumber and Raspberry. The brand is
available in Rhode Island through Horizon Beverage.
1. Curtis Jackson III, a.k.a. 50 Cent, and John T. Hogan,
President, I.M. Gan Discount Liquors.
2. John T. Hogan, President, I.M. Gan Discount Liquors and
Angelo Collins, President, Horizon Beverage Company of
Rhode Island.
3. Hundreds of fans waited in line.
4. The “50” display with Horizon Beverage’s Anna and Bob
Buonaccorsi.
5. TV personality and former World Champion Boxer Vinny
Pazienza; John T. Hogan, President, I.M. Gan Discount
Liquors; and 50 Cent.
5
Photos by Chris Almeida.
SAGE CELLARS HOSTS NAPA WINEMAKER AT
GRACIE’S IN PROVIDENCE
1
2
3
The public and trade professionals alike welcomed
Smith-Madrone’s Stu Smith for a wine dinner at Gracie’s
in Providence, in collaboration with The Savory Grape
presented by Sage Cellars. The estate-vineyard wines of
Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery joined the Sage
Cellars collection in March. Brothers Stu and Charles Smith
founded the winery, located in St. Helena, California, in
the Napa Valley region, in 1971. “These are wines from
one of the greatest terroirs in California,” said Jesse Sgro,
Owner, Sage Cellars. The intimate dinner, held on June 23,
allowed guests to learn more about Smith’s winemaking
process and award-winning wines while enjoying a fourcourse pairing dinner.
1. Jesse Sgro, Owner and Sales Director, Sage Cellars; Kate
Turner, Sales Associate, Sage Cellars; Stu Smith, SmithMadrone Vineyards and Winery.
2. Gracie’s Kristi Little and Alan Freudeman.
3. The Smith-Madrone wine pairing dinner setting at Gracie’s in
Providence.
©2015 Trinchero Family Estates, St. Helena, CA
Trinchero Family Estates started out in 1948 as a small familyrun Napa Valley winery with one storied brand: Sutter Home.
Now in its third generation, the company has grown into
one of the most respected family-owned wine companies in
the industry, with over 40 award-winning quality wine and
spirits brands. As the company’s portfolio continues to grow,
Trinchero Family Estates remains an independent, family-owned
business committed to the guiding principle established by
Mario Trinchero: To make great wine at a great price.
www.TFEwines.com
A RO U N DTOW N
NEWPORT STORM RELEASES NEW BREW “SOURPUSS”
Newport Storm Brewery released its latest four-pack
offering, Sourpuss, during the week of June 22. The new
beer, described as a “Berliner Weisse, not quite Belgian
Sour,” is a complex brew that utilizes flavors from a soured
ferment balanced with real cherries. At 6% ABV, Sourpuss is
a “refreshing brew to savor on those sticky summer days.”
JOHNSON BROTHERS HOSTS NEW AMSTERDAM
VODKA INDUSTRY NIGHT
1
Approximately 250 guests from retail accounts, restaurants
and bars enjoyed New Amsterdam Bartender’s Contest
and Industry Night, hosted by Johnson Brothers of Rhode
Island on June 24, 2015 at Rooftop @ Providence G. The
second annual event featured bartenders using New
Amsterdam Vodka in their creations. The top five recipes
from more than 50 submissions were chosen to compete.
Stephanie Merola from Andinos took first place.
1. Stephen Patterson, Metacom Kitchen, Fourth Place; Justin
Erickson, Thirsty Beaver, Fifth Place; Stephanie Merola,
Andinos, First Place; Kate Gilroy, Ocean Mist, Third Place;
and Perry Miller, Bistro 9, Second Place.
2. The event celebrated New Amsterdam Vodka and the local
industry.
2
ALPHA DISTRIBUTING OFFERS CAPRICCIO
BUBBLY SANGRIA
Alpha Distributing welcomed Capriccio Bubbly Sangria
to its portfolio. The new sangria is imported from Puerto
Rico and made with red wine from Spain, pineapple, grape,
lemon, pomegranate, orange, pear, apple, cherry, and lime
juices.
A RO U N DTOW N
KEEL VODKA GETS IN THE GAME AT BILLY’S
FOR CHARITY
1
2
3
KEEL Vodka sponsored a day at the 2015 CVS Health
Charity Classic golf tournament on June 29 at the Rhode
Island Country Club. The event combines world-class golf
and a variety of other fan-friendly activities while helping
to support hundreds of New England-area charities. A
reception followed at Billy’s in Barrington, where cocktails
featured the low-calorie, premium vodka with KEEL
founders Tom McGowan and Bill Dessel.
1. KEEL Vodka founders Bill Dessel, who also owns Billy's, and
Tom McGowan.
2. Team KEEL at Billy’s: Bill Dessel, Tracey Kardys, Max Moss
and Tom McGowan.
3. Standing: Mellissa Guerra, Billy's; Tom McGowan, Tracey
Kardys; Bill Dessel. Sitting: Max Moss, Territory Sales
Manager, KEEL Vodka; Kate DeCosta, Corporate Director of
Sales and Marketing, The Newport Experience; Diane Daley,
The Newport Experience; and Don Podesta, The Newport
Experience.
NEWPORT HARBOR PROVIDES SUNSET BACKDROP
FOR KETEL ONE
1
2
3
Rhode Island Distributing, Inc. (RIDC) hosted a Ketel One
Experience on June 22 at On the Docks in Newport.
The event offered an on-premise focus for mixologists,
managers, owners and bartenders. Ketel One Brand
Representative Kathleen Danahey of Diageo USA guided
guests through the heritage of the brand and the Ketel
One story. Innovative cocktails from the Ketel One “ice
bar” were served during sunset, overlooking the marina
and Newport Harbor.
1. All RIDC team except where indicated: Al Zannella, Chris
Carmone, Matt Guindon, Jared Iannelli, Kathleen Danahey
of Ketel One and Diageo USA, Howard Gantz, Chris Woods,
Rich Raboin, Vanessa DiPalma and Carlos Deoliveira.
2. Employees from Blue on the Water of East Greenwich.
3. Guests Carol Day Weil and Robert Weil.
4. Guests enjoyed the on-premise focused event as well as the
sunset view at On the Docks.
4
A RO U N DTOW N
TWIN RIVER CASINO RALLIES FOR LOCAL
CHARITY EFFORTS
1
2
Twin River Casino’s annual “Christmas in June” campaign
benefited many community causes. The efforts were put
forth by Twin River’s employees and hospitality industry
members, and included collecting bins of food to donate
to the RI Community Food Bank, donating the charitable
funds raised from Campari’s Negroni Week at Twin River’s
Blackstone Bar, and fixing up bicycles from Project
Broken Wheel to donate to community organizations.
The Twin River team, led by Frank Martucci, General
Manager of Beverage Operations, is comprised of Twin
River employees and local hospitality industry friends and
volunteers. Additionally, Vanity Supper Club in Providence
hosted Twin River bartenders who donated their time and
tips order to purchase non-perishable food for the RI
Community Food Bank.
1. Twin River and its employees donated $1,000 and 1,709
pounds of food to the RI Community Food Bank on June
24th to kick off the agency’s annual summer food drive.
Andy Moffitt, First Gentleman of Rhode Island; Adam "Opie"
Oppenheimer, Bartender, Twin River Casino; Frank Martucci,
General Manager, Beverage Operations, Twin River Casino;
and Andrew Schiff, Chief Executive Officer, RI Community
Food Bank. In total, Twin River’s donation will provide 6,237
meals to those in need.
2. Project Broken Wheel Volunteers delivering bikes to Praise
Tabernacle’s Live Out Loud Program. Maegan Tikiryan,
Alaina Bart and Frank Martucci.
3. Twin River’s Frank Martucci and Michael Lester of M.S.
Walker at Vanity Supper Club
4. Twin River employees behind the bar and as guests at
Vanity.
3
4
Photos 2, 3, 4 by Chris Almeida.
New to R hode IslaNd
atlaNtIc ImpoRtINg Is pRoudly bRINgINg New cRaft beeR, fINe wINe,
aNd cRaft spIRIt bRaNds to the Rhode IslaNd maRketplace.
REDEMPTION
Straight American Bourbon
Please see pages 33 & 34 in the Beverage Journal
for our full product catalog
@AtlAnticRi
Atlantic Importing Company
15 Centre of New England Boulevard Coventry, RI 02816
Office: (401) 702-4115
www.atlanticimporting.com/RI
ASSO C I AT I ONN EWS
THE WAR ON HOSPITALITY ENDS
IN A DRAW
BY DALE J. VENTURINI
The legislative season is finally over, and while we can’t claim
that we’ve won the war, we can say that we’ve won some key
battles for the time being.
Our industry faces an ongoing attack from out-of-state,
organized labor forces. They have bullied their way into Rhode
Island and have tried to affect our business model, disrupt the
way we do business or shut us down entirely.
With the Tipped Wage Bill, the opposition painted us as greedy
business owners who pay a sub-minimum wage of $2.89 per
hour. They did not let the truth stand in the way of a good – if
fictitious – storyline. No matter how loudly we yelled, “there is
no sub-minimum wage!” it did not seem to resonate with the
public, and unfortunately, these misrepresentations made it up
to Capitol Hill.
After a tremendous amount of grassroots work and effort
through rallies, meetings and testimony, we were able to
leverage the good faith we have built at the State House and
reach a compromise with leadership.
year – period. We are fortunate that the increase was not as
significant as anticipated.
Our Association has grown stronger through this fight and
our brand was enhanced in the process. The Rhode Island
Hospitality Association’s work to deter the efforts of outside,
organized forces is a positive for the hospitality industry as
a whole. This fight is not over, however our opponents are
well-funded and organized, and they will be back with more
legislation to push and more money to spend.
Hospitality is one of the biggest economic drivers in our state,
employing more than 60,000 people. We want it to continue to
be a vital cornerstone of our state’s economy, giving thousands
of folks an opportunity. The Rhode Island Hospitality
Association can’t win these battles without the committed
participation of everyone in our industry. The consequences
of future failure could be devastating to the entire hospitality
industry. Simply stated, if you work in hospitality, you just can’t
afford NOT to be involved.
While we don’t consider the resulting one-dollar tipped-wage
increase over two years a victory, we are proud of our industry’s
tremendous effort to soften a devastating bill. Remember, the
original bill had tipped-wage labor costs rising nearly 200% in
January 2016.
By reaching this compromise, the hospitality industry is more
able to adjust to the new tipped wage in stages. Our efforts have
been noticed and respected on a local and national level and
have played a significant role with our state legislators and their
willingness to sit down and listen to our concerns.
While some folks in our industry claim that we should have
beaten this bill entirely, the truth of the matter is that we
were going to realize an increase to the tipped-wage this
www.rihospitality.org
ABOUT
DALE J. VENTURINI, PRESIDENT & CEO, RHODE ISLAND HOSPITALITY ASSOCIATION
A veteran of more than 25 years in the hospitality industry, Venturini is considered by many to be the voice of the industry in the
state of Rhode Island. She has been instrumental in improving the industry’s educational and training programs in the state, as well
as enhancing the bottom line of the business she represents. Venturini splits her time between the office and the State House, a
constant presence for her membership.
B E E R COLU MN
SMOKED BEER:
WHERE TO BEGIN
BY JACK KENNY
Many years ago I was invited to be a judge for a multi-state
homebrewing competition. About four dozen judges were
grouped by beer category, and I had the privilege of being
assigned to the smoked beer category. It was educational,
difficult, and right after breakfast.
Smoked beer is not for everyone. I will venture to postulate that
smoked beer is hardly for anyone. But there it is, in a category of
its own, on shelves, menus and taps near you. What is it? How is
it smoked? What is it smoked with? How does it taste?
Smoked beer started in Germany. Over there, the word for smoke
is rauch. Rauchbier had its beginnings in the city of Bamberg, in
the Franconia region of Bavaria. There the brewers dried their
barley malt over fires of beechwood. The flavor imparted by the
wood shows up in the beer and contributes the aroma and taste
of cooked bacon.
The German Beer Institute has this to say about rauchbier:
“Once upon a time, all beers were rauchbiers, so to speak. With
the ancient kilning methods of drying green brewer’s malt over
open fires, all grains picked up smoky flavors and passed them on
to the beers made from them. Today, however, with ‘clean’ malt
being the dominant brewing grist, old-style smoke beers have set
themselves apart as an atavistic rarity, a throwback to a time
gone by.”
In its description of classic rauchbier, the Beer Judge
Certification Program (BJCP) style guidelines say that the
aroma is a blend of smoke and malt with a varying balance and
intensity. “The beechwood smoke character can range from
subtle to fairly strong, and can seem smoky, bacon-like, woody, or
rarely almost greasy. The malt character can be low to moderate,
and be somewhat sweet, toasty, or malty.” The color is medium
amber to dark brown. The notes on taste say that “the palate can
be somewhat malty and sweet, yet the finish can reflect both malt
and smoke.”
These are lagers with an alcohol strength that ranges from 4.8
to 6.5% by volume. They are malty, so don’t look for much hop
character. At its strongest, the hop presence will be moderate.
It is possible to find German smoked bier in our state, but
availability might be limited to those labeled Aecht Schlenkerla.
Be assured, however, that these are considered to be “the gold
standard for modern Rauchbier,” says the German Beer Institute.
The traditional Schlenkerla
Rauchbier is brewed and aged
much like a Märzen (beer brewed in March and intended to last
through the summer until Oktoberfest). It has an ABV of 5.1%.
Schlenkerla Rauchweizen is a smoky weissbier with 5.2% alcohol
by volume, and the lager is a smoky Helles-type blonde brewed to
an ABV of 4.8%.
Just as you can have wood chips from apple, hickory or mesquite
trees for grilling different foods, so you can have a smoked red
lager or a smoked stout. These days in the craft beer world, the
most popular non-German smoked beers are often based on
porters, that dark English style that preceded stout. The most
common woods are hardwoods: oak, maple, mesquite, alder,
pecan, apple, cherry and other fruitwoods.
Stone Brewing in San Diego is known for its smoked porter, and
also its smoked vanilla porter. Closer to home we have Captain
Lawrence Smoked Porter, from Elmsford, NY. Though it uses
German smoked malt in the brewing process, its notes are of
smoked wood rather than smoked meat, plus a bit of coffee
and chocolate.
The Scots also have applied peat smoke to their whiskies with
great success, and they sometimes smoke their beer grains. Peat is
a soil-like substance of partly decomposed vegetable matter found
in great number in bogs throughout Britain and Ireland. As a
fuel source it is used for domestic heating. Scotch ale, also known
as wee heavy, can be made with the addition of peat smoked
barley, but it’s not a requisite.
Skull Splitter, from The Orkney Brewery in Scotland, is popular
in these parts (relatively speaking). At 8.5% the ABV is higher
than usual. One reviewer finds sweet, dark fruit on the front of
the palate and citrus, hop and alcohol at the finish.
If you’re not pouring or stocking smoked beer and feel like giving
it a go, start with a case of Aecht Schlenkerla and/or a domestic
brand. See how it goes. On premise, it will be a talking point.
ABOUT
JACK KENNY
Jack Kenny has been writing The
Beer Column for The Beverage
Journal since 1995.
WRITE TO HIM
[email protected]
THE
Burnt
rosemary
is the crowning
touch to the
Queen’s Bush
cocktail
FIND
COCKTAILS PART OF THE SURREAL
SCENE AT QUEEN OF THE NIGHT
At the subterranean Diamond Horseshoe in NYC’s Paramount Hotel,
“Queen of the Night” is a full-blown immersive theatrical dining
experience. From the moment guests arrive, everything is part of the
show. Amid the symbol-rich décor and pulsating music, elaborately
costumed characters act out a “dark debutante ball” thrown by The
Marchesa for her daughter Pamina. Meanwhile, guests can sip on
a bevy of smartly conceived and well-balanced cocktails, such as
Pamina’s Passion (Belvedere Mango Passion Vodka, fresh lime juice,
cranberry juice) and The Willing Gentleman (bourbon, orange juice,
lemon, sage). Paired with ample shareable food, “Queen” is clearly
more than dinner and a show—and the simpatico libations are a part
of the memorable scene. queenofthenightnyc.com
With a mix of acrobatics, dance,
narrative and music, Queen of the
Night goes way beyond traditional
dinner theater.
HEAVEN HILL LAUNCHES WHISKEY
WITH AN ODE TO MARYLAND
Heaven Hill Brands has launched Pikesville Straight Rye
Whiskey, a 6-year-old straight rye whiskey saluting a historic
Maryland mark dating back to 1895. It is produced in the
historic Bernheim Distillery in Louisville and aged in its
premier rickhouses in Bardstown, KY. With a mashbill of at
least 51% rye, and with corn and malted barley as the “small”
grains, Pikesville Rye embraces the tradition of American
Straight Rye Whiskey that set the stage for rye’s current
renaissance. 110 proof. SRP $49.99. heavenhill.com
ACCESSIBLE ‘HARMONY’
FROM BEAM SUNTORY
Intent on raising the profile of its Japanese
whisky brands, Suntory is debuting Hibiki
Japanese Harmony as a new “introductory”
offer under its luxury Hibiki label. Retailing at
$65 a bottle, it is easily the most accessible
offering in Beam Suntory’s Japanese whisky
stable. Priced above Harmony are the
12-year-old expressions of Hibiki, Yamazaki
and Hakushu, all around $85, and a 17-yearold ($150) and a 21-year-old ($250).
Japanese Harmony is a blend of 10 different
malt and grain whiskies aged in five different
types of casks. 86 proof. suntory.com
POWER TO THE PEACHES: CAMPARI AMERICA
LAUNCHES X-RATED FUSION LIQUEUR
The flavor of a ripe, juicy peach is all the rage in the lifestyle world
right now. Catching the summertime peach wave is X-Rated Fusion
Liqueur Peach Blush, the third entry in the X-Rated portfolio. Peach
Blush melds ultra-premium vodka and sun-ripened peaches,
mingling with citrus and honey. The liquid, made with real
fruit, follows in the footsteps of Original (mango, blood orange,
passion fruit) and Tropix (pineapple and coconut). This versatile
liqueur blends seamlessly with club soda or Champagne for a
bubbly cocktail, shaken with vodka to craft an elegant martini,
or by itself on the rocks. 34 proof. $24.99/750ml, $35.99/1L.
campariamerica.com
NEWPRODUCTS
&PROMOTIONS
HArmonious red Blend from
HArAsztHy fAmily CellArs
Wine vines are individuals. Distinct varieties each contribute
certain traits and characteristics. It is through blending that
winemakers can navigate a wine on a course toward greater
complexity, poise and balance. Grown in the Lodi AVA,
Haraszthy Family Cellars 2013 Bearitage Red Wine Blend
is a union of Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah, and is an
excellent complement to grilled meats, fish or chicken dishes.
Marketed by Bronco Wine Company.
CAmPo viejo extends into CAvA
Campo Viejo, the venerable Rioja brand imported
by Pernod-Ricard, is extending deeper into
Spain’s wine culture, releasing two sparkling
Cavas. The Reserva Brut has complex aromas
of white fruits with hints of wood, and is fresh
and well-balanced, while the Brut Rosé is a
sparkling pink color with a strong presence of
ripe red berries. Both offerings are crafted in
the traditional method, offering a bright and
crisp alternative to Prosecco.
srP: $14.99
broncowine.com
srP: $12.99
campoviejo.com
facebook.com/BroncoWineCompany
facebook.com/CampoviejoWine
sonomA-Cutrer releAses
first-ever sAuviGnon BlAnC
Hudson WHiskey Goes BiG
for 10tH AnniversAry
Sonoma-Cutrer has released a Sauvignon Blanc for the first time
ever as the third offering in the brand’s Winemaker’s Release
Series, a collection of limited-production wines consisting of
different varietals and blends. The 2014 vintage is crafted from
Russian River Valley fruit from four pedigreed Sauvignon Blanc
vineyards; the wine is bright and lively with crisp fruit notes.
Baby Bourbon is growing up. Marking their 10th
anniversary, Hudson Whiskey has released their Baby
Bourbon and Manhattan Rye Whiskey in 750ml bottles for
the first time ever. The larger size bottle is a testament
to the popularity of the award-winning whiskey, and
the continuing evolution of the Hudson brand. The
750ml bottle will be available this summer, both
on-and off-premise. 80 proof.
srP: $24.99
sonomacutrer.com
srP: $50
hudsonwhiskey.com
facebook.com/sonomacutrervineyards
facebook.com/hudsonwhiskey
lunAzul unveils neW Premium PACkAGinG
Lunazul 100% Agave Tequila has a package reflective of the
brand’s quality and heritage. The refreshed bottle features a
cleaner look, with the hallmark black label trimmed with bright,
crisp colors and accented by a blow-in of the Lunazul wolf and a
premium cork closure. Lunazul will
also be rolling out their “One Sip
and You Know” marketing campaign,
focusing on the simplicity of the
tequila’s great taste. 80 proof.
Colimoro Adds Pinot
GriGio from Alto AdiGe
Colimoro has expanded its offerings to include a Pinot
Grigio from the slopes of Alto Adige, the premier region
for the cultivation of the grape. Flavors of white peach,
honeysuckle and ripe melon pair with refreshing acidity,
great balance and length. This addition is a counterpart to
Colimoro Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Currently available
through Opici Family Distributing in CT, DE, FL, MD, NJ,
NY and DC, and will be rolled out nationally this year.
srP: $19.99-$24.99
lunazultequila.com
srP: $15
opiciwines.com
facebook.com/lunazul
facebook.com/opiciwines.com
NEWPRODUCTS
&PROMOTIONS
A neW releAse from PACifiC oAsis
The Pacific Oasis 2013 Riesling from the Columbia Valley
has floral aromas paired with fresh peach, honey apricot
and mineral notes. Melissa Robles, winemaker, notes that
the wine's complex flavors marry with a semi-sweet finish.
Stainless steel-fermented and unoaked, it’s a wine that
can be enjoyed with food or by itself. Best served chilled.
Marketed by Bronco Wine Company.
jACkson estAte joins jACkson fAmily
Jackson Estate has appointed Jackson Family Wines
as their importer/distributor in the U.S., introducing an
Estate Stitch Sauvignon Blanc 2013 and Jackson Estate
Vintage Widow Pinot Noir 2012. The Stitch Sauvignon
Blanc, sourced from three estate vineyards in the central
Wairau and the Waihopai Valley, conveys classic NZ
SB character with pronounced aromas of passionfruit
and white stone fruits. The Vintage Widow Pinot Noir,
sourced from the southern Wairau Valley, is savory
and spicy, rich and ripe without losing detail.
srP: $11.99
broncowine.com
srP: sB $22/ Pn $30
jacksonestate.co.nz
facebook.com/BroncoWineCompany
facebook.com/jackson-estate-Winery
BriGHt neW oreGon Pinot noir
from CAliforniA’s mArk West
Mark West has launched their first Pinot Noir from
Willamette Valley, Oregon. The 2013 offers aromas of
cranberry and cherry with hints of vanilla, brown sugar and
coffee. The brand’s first Oregon Pinot Noir showcases a
more delicate style, lighter color and bright red berry fruit
typical of the Willamette terroir. This is the fourth in the
Mark West Appellation Series, joining Pinot Noirs from
California’s Carneros, Russian River Valley and Santa
Lucia Highlands AVAs. Available in TX, AZ, NY, CA, OR,
FL, DC and OH.
midniGHt moon moonsHine
introduCes neWest flAvor
Peach is the newest addition to Midnight Moon’s flavored
lineup, joining raspberry, apple pie, strawberry, blueberry,
cherry, blackberry and cranberry. The all-natural, sweet,
juicy taste of peaches is captured in each jar, as the
spirit is infused with sliced, cooked peaches. Midnight
Moon Peach can be enjoyed on the rocks, in cocktails
or simply mixed with juices, sodas, lemonade or
sweet teas. 70 proof.
srP: $24.99
markwestwines.com
srP: $21.99
piedmontdistillers.com
facebook.com/markWestWines
facebook.com/PiedmontdistillersnC
PinnACle vodkA deButs
ruBy red GrAPefruit
les dAuPHins BrinG tHeir
joie de vivre to tHe u.s.
Just in time for summer entertaining, Pinnacle has
launched Ruby Red Grapefruit Vodka. With the taste of
fresh grapefruit and a smooth, tart finish, Pinnacle’s
latest innovation delivers a deliciously tangy flavor
profile perfect for summer cocktails and cookouts.
70 proof.
Les Dauphins wines from France’s Rhône Valley
have arrived in the U.S. and are available nationally
for the first time. Introduced in Europe in 2011, the
wines are now in 25 countries, with 200,000 cases
sold globally in 2014. Currently available in the
U.S. are the 2013 Reserve Red Côtes du Rhône,
a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre;
2013 Reserve White Côtes du Rhône; and
2013 Reserve Rosé Côtes du Rhône.
srP: $12.99
pinnaclevodka.com
srP: $12.99
lesdauphons-rhone.us
facebook.com/pinnaclevodka
facebook.com/lesdauphinsus
WINE
BUZZ
Vineyard
Manager Rosa
Kruger and Winemaker
Graham Weerts carefully
selected fruit from three
vineyards within the
Western Cape to
create Capensis.
A QUARTER CENTURY LATER,
ROBERT OATLEY GOES BACK TO HIS ROOTS
GSM, the acronym for Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre, is an iconic
varietal blend originated in France’s Southern Rhône valley but
embraced by the Aussie wine industry as its own. Robert Oatley,
owner of Rosemount Estate, was one of the original Australian
GSM producers, and 25 years later has released a new GSM from
the McLaren Vale. A blend of 60% Grenache, 40% Shiraz and 10%
Mourvèdre, the warm, maritime-influenced climate of the McLaren
Vale produces grapes with rich dark fruit character, supple tannins
and a hint of spice. The new GSM is part of the Robert Oatley
Signature Series line; SRP $20. pacific-hwy.com
50 YEARS OF SPARKLING HISTORY:
SCHRAMSBERG VINEYARDS
Schramsberg Vineyards celebrates its 50th anniversary throughout 2015.
Revived in 1965 by Jack and Jamie Davies, their vision was to create the
first American sparkling wine from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes,
utilizing secondary bottle fermentation just as is done in Champagne.
Now, 50 years later, their son
Hugh Davies leads the winery’s
management and winemaking
team with the same resolute vision.
The winery property is tucked into
the densely forested slopes of
Diamond Mountain, a few miles
south of Calistoga. Schramsberg
has expanded past its initial vines
on the home property and in the
upper Napa Valley with vineyards in
more than 100 cool-climate sites
throughout Carneros, Anderson
Valley, and along the Sonoma and
Marin coasts. schramsberg.com
CAPENSIS: NEW FROM JACKSON FAMILY WINES
It all started when Barbara Banke won a trip to South Africa at an auction.
The Chairman of Jackson Family Wines, Banke is passionate about stellar
vineyard sites, collecting the best ones like Easter eggs, and
when she set foot in Stellenbosch, she sensed magic. Teaming
up with longtime friend Antony Beck, Director of Graham Beck
Wines, Banke set out to create a South African Chardonnay of rare
finesse, and a few years later, Capensis (meaning “fine woods”
in Dutch) was born. They have since purchased 20 acres of
vineyard land in the Banghoek Valley.
“People get really excited about Chenin Blanc from South
Africa, but I have always believed the Chardonnay is what
the country offers that is truly world class,” says Graham
Weerts, Cape Town native and Head Winemaker for Jackson
Family Wines, who has been charged with creating the
wine—a welcome return to his roots. Sourcing from three
high-altitude vineyards in Stellenbosch, Weerts has crafted
a stunning Chardonnay marked by racy minerality and ripe
fruit. The inaugural Capensis 2013 vintage was tiny—just
1,000 cases—and launched nationwide in June for a
suggested retail price of $80. jacksonfamilywines.com
MATEUS: SAME ROSÉ,
NOW IN A CLEAR GLASS BOTTLE
Since 1942, Mateus Rosé has been produced from
some of the best grapes and finest wine regions
in Portugal, and bottled in its famous green glass
bottle. But things change, and after 73 years
Mateus has decided to show off the appealing
bright hue of the rosé in a new clear bottle.
Mateus Rosé Original is fresh, wellbalanced and complemented by a soft
and slightly fizzy finish. It works ideally
as an aperitif or with light meals,
seafood, meat, grilled dishes and
salads, as well as with spicy foods.
SRP $7.99. evaton.com
{Our passion for great craftsmanship runs deep
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RE TAI L R EVI EW
Pier Liquors
BY SAVANNAH MUL
P
ier Liquors first opened on
Memorial Day weekend, 2007. With
a prime location a few miles from
the beach, residents and tourists received
the store with open arms. Mother-daughter
team Debra Manni, owner, and Dina Lindia,
store manager, attribute the level of success
to their customer service.
LO C AT ION
“We are a customer service based business,”
Lindia said. “I want to go a step above and
make sure when you come here, you leave
satisfied.” Most recently, a goal of Lindia’s was
realized when Rhode Island Monthly named
Pier Liquors the “Best Wine Shop in South
County” in 2014.
This recognition affirmed for Lindia
that customers appreciate the service and
knowledge they offer. Pier Liquors staffs 10
part-time and full-time employees. Lindia
ensures when customers come in the store,
her staff is knowledgeable about the products
they sell.
“We make sure that we know a little bit of
everything,” Lindia explained. If a customer
29 PIER MARKET PLACE
NARRAGANSETT, RI
FAC T S
SQUARE FOOTAGE: 2,200
YEARS IN OPERATION: 8
inquires about product information or
availability that an employee is unfamiliar
with, the staff will work with the customer,
and use online resources as well help from
sales representatives to track the product
down to get it in the store.
Each season brings new favorites for
customers at Pier Liquors. “This time of
year we stock up on a lot of boat brews,
like canned items, things that are fun to
drink and something you can grab and go,”
Lindia said.
Facebook page and uses social media to help
spread the word for store events, products
and promotions.
Pier Liquors have about four doors of chilled
wines, 12 doors of craft beers and five doors
of imported beers and ciders. They also have
a large gravity cooler for bigger production
microbrews. Lindia said the store carries
a large variety of local beers, wines and
spirits, too. Local wines are always a popular
purchase for tourists.
Pier Liquors is also located about 15 minutes
away from The University of Rhode Island,
and many students rent out houses and
apartments in the area. Manni explained
when the tourism season is ending as
summer comes to a close, students and
faculty are returning to the area, which helps
boost business.
Manni said during December into January
business can be a slow, but the store uses
this time to do in-store promotions to
attract customers. In the past, they have
featured Bud Light promotions, craft beer
and wine tastings. Pier Liquors has an active
Lindia said they also offer sales throughout
the week. “There’s a 10-percent wine discount
on Mondays and five-percent off on beer and
liquor on Thursdays.” Pier Liquors also offers
seasonal holiday baskets and will place large
orders for parties and events. ■
If you own a small, medium or megastore and would like to be featured,
email: [email protected]
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O N -P R E M I S E ADV I CE
THE DOG DAYS OF AUGUST:
TIME TO TEACH YOUR BAR
NEW TRICKS
BY LEN PANAGGIO
It’s hard to believe, but we are at the halfway point of summer
business. Those of us on the shoreline are preparing for the
inevitable downturn, while those in the cities are preparing for
the upturn. Students are returning to school, the beach houses
are slowly closing, boating time is disappearing, etc. It is a time
when at the coast we utter those harsh words to our salespeople —
“All set!” The last thing we want is to be sitting on still-bloated
inventory ramped up to meet the demands of the season. The
smart operators know what I mean, and August is the time to
really look at what you truly need for new inventory as well as to
create specials around season inventory.
Now, it is not all doom and gloom for us on the shore. We still
have two strong months in front of us. Nobody wants to frequent
a tired, worn-out bar, so now is a good time to step back and look
at your bar area, especially your outside bars. They have taken a
beating over the summer months and most likely look the part.
Why not have an all hands on deck deep-cleaning day to freshen
them up? It’s also a great opportunity to pull all your beers out of
the cooler, check codes and rotate them, as well as alert your staff
to move the older product.
In the city, the same holds true about deep-cleaning. Make your
bar shine and make it appealing for your guests this fall. Sitting
at a bar to dine is quite fashionable today; you should enhance
that experience, don’t ruin it! You wouldn’t have a dirty table
for your guest, why a dirty bar? Some elbow grease and touch-up
paint can really go a long way to bring your bar into the
next season.
Take a look at the condition of your most important marketing
piece — your menus, wine lists, table tents and drink lists.
Nobody wants to order from a dirty or torn menu – it speaks
volumes about your business and can quickly turn a guest off.
August is also the time when the demand for products starts
to shift. Even though it’s still summer, Oktoberfest beers will
be hitting the market soon and the last thing you want is to
be sitting on summer brews in September or October. By this
time, guests are looking forward to fall and the latest seasonal
brew. The sooner you get it to them, while at the same time
diminishing your current stock of summer brews, the better.
Another product that will be in demand as the days get shorter
and the air gets cooler is hard cider. We have witnessed an
explosion in the last few years of this crisp adult beverage and
it doesn’t show signs of slowing down.
So, if you don’t have at least one cider
in your establishment, what are you
waiting for?
This is also the time of year when the
call of the deep, brown spirits will
begin. Whisky above all is seeing a bona
fide resurgence — especially bourbon
and single malts, not just Scotch! Take
a look at your current offerings and
anticipate what’s coming down the pike.
As you can see, it is time for all of us
to prepare for the next season while
ensuring that our guests today are
having a great time in the here and now.
Offering delicious, current products in
a clean environment is our job and after
all, isn’t that what guests expect and
return for?
ABOUT
LEN PANAGGIO, BEVERAGE CONSULTANT
Len Panaggio’s career in food and wine spans more than three decades as an owner and as a beverage
director at some of the top restaurants in Rhode Island. Currently a hospitality consultant, Len is a graduate
of the University of Rhode Island and has attended the Culinary Institute of America Master Sommelier
program and the Sterling School of Service and Hospitality.
COC KTA I LCOR N ER
RISING TO THE OCCASION
While sipping on a delicious cocktail isn’t necessarily reserved for a certain time of
year, or even a certain time of day, there are specific times when we want something
that truly amplifies the event. From weddings and birthdays to the ever-frequent
National [insert Cocktail Name here] Day, there’s no shortage of opportunities to
tie a memorable drink to an occasion worth celebrating.
While Jonathan Pogash, aka “The Cocktail Guru,” spends a lot of time
consulting for a variety of bars and alcohol brands, he also doubles as a cocktail
creator for weddings and special events, using “cocktails as unique and personal as
your signature” to describe his creative recipe methodology.
FOR WEDDINGS & BEYOND
Pogash is known for designing cocktails for just about any
event you can imagine. His “And Many More…”—flavorful
but not too strong—was conceived originally for weddings
and anniversaries, but its warm-weather compatability lets it
work all summer for outdoor parties.
AND MANY MORE…
1½ oz Ron Abuelo 7 Años Rum
1 oz Mango Purée
½ oz Fresh Lime Juice
½ oz Vanilla Syrup*
Pour ingredients into cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake
and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a
lime wheel.
*For vanilla syrup: Add 1 vanilla bean, sliced down the
middle, to 1 quart of simple syrup. Allow to infuse for 48
hours at room temperature. Remove vanilla bean.
FOR CELEBRATING LGBT EQUALITY
Pogash, on behalf of Van Gogh Vodka and the True Colors Fund,
created this cocktail for the “Give a Damn Campaign,” a project of
the True Colors Fund that aims to inspire straight people to “give a
damn” about issues impacting the LGBT community.
GIVE A DAMN MARTINI
1½ oz Van Gogh BLUE Triple Wheat Vodka
¾ oz POM Pomegranate Juice
¾ oz Monin Cinnamon Syrup
1½ oz Sparkling Wine
Garnish: Sweetheart candy
Shake first three ingredients with ice and strain into a
martini glass. Top with chilled sparkling wine and garnish
with a sweetheart candy.
POM-MELON
SPARKLER
FOR WEEKEND BRUNCH
Here, Pogash puts a twist on the mimosa, a classic brunch
cocktail. Not only does the Pom-Melon Sparkler combine the
bright, summer flavors of melon and pomegranate, it is easy to
make as individual cocktails or in one big batch.
POM-MELON SPARKLER
1 oz Van Gogh Melon Vodka
¾ oz POM Pomegranate Juice
3 oz Prosecco
Garnish: slapped Basil Leaf
Add ingredients into a mixing glass with ice and gently fold. Strain into
a champagne flute.
FOR NATIONAL DRINK DAYS
Sometimes it seems like there aren’t enough days in the calendar
for the sundry “National Drink” days that pop up all over social
media. July 11th marked National Mojito Day; Bacardi made
sure not to let the occasion pass without sharing their definitive
Mojito recipe.
BACARDI SUPERIOR MOJITO
2 oz Bacardi Superior Rum
4 Lime Wedges
12 Fresh Mint Leaves
2 heaped tsp Caster Sugar
1 oz Club Soda
Garnish: sprig of Mint
Gently press together the limes and the sugar in
the bottom of a glass. Bruise the mint leaves by
clapping them between your palms, rub them on
the rim of the glass and drop them in. Half-fill the
glass with crushed ice, add in rum and stir. Top with
crushed ice, a splash of soda and a sprig of mint.
SE RV I NGU P
1 6 5 S H O R E R OA D
W E S T E R LY, R . I .
On-site at the Winnapaug Inn and
adjacent to the Winnapaug Golf Course,
Venice offers full-service dining and an
ocean-view bar. New England summer
fare, including fi sh and chips, scallops and
raw bar selections, share the menu with
refreshingly creative cocktails.
BARTENDER: Christy Ferraro
COCKTAIL: Caribbean Martini
RECIPE: Mix:
• 1.5 oz. Smirnoff Vanilla Vodka
Shake over ice. Strain and serve
straight up.
• 1 oz. Malibu Rum
• A splash of Pineapple juice, splash
of grenadine.
The Caribbean Martini is a popular summer drink at Venice. “It’s tropical and fruity,
but not too sweet,” said Ferraro.
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Iced is Hot!
ICED COFFEE IS THE HOTTEST DRINK TREND OF THE SUMMER.
C A S H I N B Y F E AT U R I N G T H E R U M C H ATA A N D
C A S A D E L S O L G I F T PA C K !
+
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$
RumChata. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural and Artificial Flavors. 13.75% alcohol by volume.Bottled by Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI.
Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA and CHATA are Registered Trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC.
SOFT, FRUITY AND PLAYFUL,
THE NEW GENRE OF
RED BLENDS IS IMPACTING
THE WHOLE INDUSTRY
BY W. R. TISH
IMAGE COURTESY OF SUTTER HOME
D
on’t peer too far into the future for the Next
Big Thing in wine. It is already here. Right
under our noses. It’s Red Blends. Not grandpa’s
Bordeaux, and not even daddy’s Meritage or
Rhône Rangers. It’s the kitchen-sink blends that come in all
sorts of grape combos but all wind up soft as a baby’s bottom
and tasting like liquid jam.
Of course, blended wines are as old as the proverbial vinecovered hills. But precisely because of these wines, using “Red
Blends” to represent a category is not so functional anymore.
The wines leading the trend—pricewise, think SRP <$12,
discounted <$10; brand-wise, think Apothic, Cupcake Red
Velvet, Ménage à Trois, et al.—are blends in a technical
sense, but their connection to traditional blended wines is
tenuous. Whereas some of the wine world’s most revered wines
(Bordeaux, Champagne, Côtes-du-Rhône, Rioja…) are blends
based on grapes that grow together, the fruit sourced for today’s
Red This/That may not even hail from the same zip code.
The entire concept of blended wine has exploded. What
evolved as an exercise in regional definition has morphed
suddenly into a flexible and valuable tool. Red blends have
become a marketer’s dream. Often grapes are not even on the
label—lush/luscious descriptors make clear that the wine’s style
matters more than its ingredients or specific origin.
GROWTH SPURT
To start, remember that Red Blends were not even measured as
a category five years ago. Nielsen first began tracking them in
2011. For the 52 weeks ending 5/23/15, Red Blends, with sales
of $1.675 billion nationwide, were up a solid 8.4% over 2014—
and a whopping 50% since May of 2011.
As with table wines, domestic labels dominate imports. The
breakdown by color is quite telling: Red accounts for nearly
70% of all blends, vs. Pink (15.9%) and White (14.4%). This is
truly a Red trend. Perhaps an even bigger eye-opener, however:
Red Blends under $12 account for 77% of the category’s overall
value. And that share has been consistent since Nielsen began
monitoring Blends in 2011.
If it seems like almost every other new wine is a red
blend, well, that’s because it’s almost true. Just over 40% of
items introduced to the market in the last two years were Red
Blends, according to Nielsen. At the same time, Cabernet and
Chardonnay, the two top-selling varietals, accounted for 17.7%
of new items, combined.
It’s not just the quantity of innovation, it’s the breadth, embraced by both new entrants and established brands, at home
and abroad. There are boxes (Big House Red; Vin Vault; Bota
Box RedVolution; Maison Cubi) and single-serves (Zipz by
Fetzer; Stack “Charisma”). Brand extensions have unfolded at
Sutter Home, Beringer, Caful, creating new wines beAnd as price goes up, the names can get
vit, Yellow Tail, The Seekcomes even easier and more
more serious, characterful. The Prisoner,
er, Smoking Loon, Bandit,
flexible. Second, what better
the upscale granddaddy of California Red
Alamos, Concha y Toro and
way to make a statement in
Blends, now has plenty of company.
Frontera, to name a few. All
the wine market than by crethe major international corating a signature blend?
WHAT’S NEXT?
porations are at the Blends
Blends are having an
It’s not hard to predict that Red Blends
table—Diageo (Stark Raving
extended moment, and it’s
will keep growing. In which ways is the
Red; Great American Wine
happening below and
operative question.
Company Red); Pernodabove the $12 line.
Belly up to a wine bar and you likely
MOUNT RUSHMORE?
Ricard (Deadbolt); and
Is it any surprise
won’t see any of the overtly playful (and
If there were a monument chiseled
especially Constellation
that Qupé is calljammy) blends. To say they aren’t somm
out of stone to honor pioneer blends,
(PopCrush; Red Guiing
two
new
Central
favorites either is an understatement.
these four would certainly belong;
tar; Thorny Rose; Primal
Coast releases their
all started as single wines but
The traction is off-premise, says Wendy
quickly became full-blown
Roots; Robert Mondavi
“Blends Tier,” featuring
Nyberg, VP of Marketing at Trinchero
brands.
Private Selection; Dreaming
A Modern Red and A
Family Estates, comparing it to Moscato
Tree). Gallo has been very agModern White? When the
in that regard. Trinchero is bullish on the
gressive, building the Apothic franBiltmore Estate in North Carolicategory, seeing great results form Ménage
chise, refreshing Hearty Burgundy and
na created a cuvée to celebrate their 30th
à Trois Midnight, and counting on
adding the globally-sourced Dark Horse.
anniversary, they didn’t make a varietal
Millennials to keep the category growing,
Speaking of “dark,” Dark spinoffs have
wine, they made a blend of Petite Sirah,
especially with the new Taken brand,
grown legs of their own. Nielsen started
Syrah and Zinfandel. Ste. Michelle’s new
featuring two blends.
measuring Dark Red Blends in 2013. Their
line, Motto, made in California, has three
“We do see that red blends tend to
$57.5 million in sales in 2014 represented
SKUs: a Cabernet, a Zinfandel and a Red
overindex against Millennials,” agrees
a 400% increase over the previous year.
Blend. William Hill Estate is phasing out
Renato Reyes, Chief Marketing Officer at
Merlot to make way for (take a guess) a
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. “In terms
Red Blend.
ADVANTAGE: BLENDS
of wine style, people want bold wines but
The names being pounded out in the
Human nature has a hand in the populardon’t want overbearing acid or tannin.”
name of Red Blendiness are a story in their
ity of Red Blends. Blended wines, more so
Jon Moramarco, formerly an executive
own right. They point in many directions,
than wines identified by a specific region
with both Winebow and Constellation,
revealing the blends’ secret weapon: perand/or grape, are intuitive. Americans are
now has a firm BW 166 that publishes a
sonality. Attitude, even. Thanks to Red
surrounded with blends in everyday food
high–level monthly report of ‘intelligent
Blends, people can drink wines of mood
and drink—from fusion to cocktails, juicdata’ on the U.S. market for beer, wine
(InspiRed, Sultry, Delectable, Divaes to ice cream, candy to granola. People
and spirits. Moramarco explains that for
licious, Cryptic, Mojo, Temperamental,
get the idea that the whole is greater than
Millennials, grape and place matter little
Tenacious) and action (Troublemaker,
the sum of its parts. Blends are modern,
“as long as it tastes good.”
The Investor, The Crusher,
hip, in sync with how people live.
Increasingly, the issue of
The Cleaver). Sometimes
On the producer’s side, two important
good taste is coming down to
the wine’s name is selffactors are at play. If specific grapes don’t
a very smooth, very ripe style
descriptive (Field Blend)
matter, and supply is plentiof wine. Fred Franzia, whose
or aspirational (New York
Bronco Wine Company owns
APOTHIC’S
Red, Hunt Country Red,
Red Truck and just released
GOTH-ISH LOOK
Uncensored
Red).
a Top Rail Red as part of the
MADE A SEASONAL
This genre is vivaDARK SPINOFF QUITE
Picket Fence line, says, “ConNATURAL
cious, friendly and full of
sumers want dry, but drink
pep. Double Decker Red,
sweet, under five grams of sugUncorked Red, Fancy Pants
ar. Red Blends will continue
OH SO CHIC(K)
Red, Handsome Devil
to grow for the foreseeable
Red Blends have become key
Red, Pandemonium,
future.” Bronco’s stable
players in an active segment of
Eruption, Red Splash.
includes Masked Rider
wines geared toward women.
Compared to traditional
Packaging is just part of the
“Gunsmoke Red,” Gravel
picture; websites for these
regional and varietal catBar “Alluvial Red” and
brands carry through with
egories, it’s pretty safe to
Haraszthy Family Cellars
fashion and lifestyle
tips.
say blends have more fun.
“Bearitage,” among others.
A SUPERB BLEND
OF CHARACTER
Discover Santa Rita’s Red Blends
HERO’S SALUTE
RED BLEND
“With its expansive red
fruit flavors, this is a
fresh blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon with Merlot,
Syrah, Petit Verdot and
Carménère. The wine’s
vibrant acidity balances
the sweet, gentle nature
of its fruit. A great
buy for a party.”
“Cabernet Franc
makes up 65% of this
blend and its tobacco
scents drive the
initial aroma. Behind
them is a core of red
fruit, with a prickle
of fresh acidity that
would pair well with
gnocchi pomodoro.”
©2015 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL.
* Nielsen TTL XAOC + Combined Liquor, ending 5/23/15
SantaRitaWine.com
SantaRitaWines
SANTA RITA’S
“SECRET RESERVE”
COMBINES FIVE
GRAPES, INCLUDING
CARMENERE.
WINNERS
VIN DE FRANCE. For French growers
and negociants who spent decades bound
by the straitjacket of AOC rules, this new
official designation may be just what the
accountants ordered.
AUSTRALIA. Blending is so 20th century to
the Aussies; there is no reason that a new
generation of Americans won’t embrace
quaffable Cab-Shirazes and even SemChards (Semillon-Chardonnays have a long
tradition Down Under).
LABEL SHOPPERS. The TTB could
probably justify working overtime approving
new labels; the graphics and phrasing have
never been sharper, and the names are
playful and friendly.
SWEET TOOTHS. We know they are out
there; setting aside the fact that wines
labeled Sweet Reds are also on the increase,
it’s highly likely that open-minded fruit lovers
will be happy with some of the soft multigrape cuvées simply called Red.
LOSERS
ZINFANDEL. California’s pride in Zin is
well-founded, but as many winemakers
are discovering, its highest calling may be
as the foundation of fruit-forward, blends.
The upshot: acreage may hold, but varietal
bottlings will shrink.
MERITAGE. The idea of California at once
imitating the French and yet breaking
away by creating “Meritage” (named via a
contest, no less) seems a bit quaint now.
It’s open season on blending today; no
grapes are off limits, so why prop up an old
category nobody could ever pronounce
correctly?
POINTS/CRITICS. Not unlike Moscato,
red blends under $12 are ringing the cash
registers under their own power; when
wines go jammy, points seem pointless.
AOCs. You know, I know, we (in the trade)
all know that some of Europe’s finest wines
are blends; but will AOCs, DOs, etc. fall off
people’s radar in the wake of so many fruitdriven blends?
Moramarco expects
clear they are both fruity and
Red Blends to continue
smooth; a “Try it Chilled” callgrowing, and notes that
out won’t hurt either.
the trend is especially
Don’t let international
robust at the high end.
blends get lost in the Red sauce.
BW 166 measured 2014
After all, a Grenache-driven
growth in the $10.50Côtes du Rhône or Côtes du
$15.49 range at 16%;
Roussillon might be just the
meanwhile, Red Blends
ticket for someone who
INTERNATIONAL
priced at $15.50-$20
wants a little more guts in
at 18%, >$20 at 13%.
a blend. Spain, Portugal,
PACESETTERS
On the other hand,
South Africa and AusCalifornia may be the pace setter,
according to BW 166,
tralia also have plenty
but international blends are
coming on fast; here, indigenous
the top 10 brands acof wines ready to be part
grapes (e.g., Carmenere in the
count for two-thirds
of
Red Blend Nation.
Chilean Epica, and Teroldego
of the $7.50-$10.50
And think about crossin Cavit) can be a point of
distinction.
Red Blend market; so
selling fresh fruity reds like
everyone else is fighting for
Barbera, Dolcetto and Bardoone-third of the market.
lino from Italy; Zweigelt from AusAs Red Blends continue to battle
tria; even Refošk from Slovenia.
for shelf space, we can expect more
Segmenting out “serious” blends
plush prose and red-blooded names and
can also help improve the shopping
graphics to appear. The words “smooth”
experience for customers. These
and “juicy” are especially popular, and
wines—usually priced in the teens, and
considered by many in the industry to be
by no means only from California—
code for “sweet.”
show intensity, more structure (tannin
We can also expect to see more
and acid) and perhaps varietal
story-driven labels to appear, such as
distinction. They may be upsells, but
Santa Rita’s “Secret Reserve” blend
the upsells are quite natural: better
and the history-based Santa Rita 120
grapes yield better blends.
“Hero’s Salute,” honoring the 120
Some over-$12 blends that have
Chilean patriots who took refuge at the
impressed me lately include Charles &
winery proprietor’s manor house in the
Charles Cabernet-Syrah (Washington);
early 1800s.
Los Vascos Reserve (Chilean Cabernet,
Carmenere, Syrah, Malbec);
Vistalba “Corte C” (Argentine
ACTION PLAN
Malbec, Cabernet, Bonarda);
Pardon the pun, but it’s easy
Cavaliero “Donna Enrica”
to let all these Red Blends,
(Tuscan Sangiovese, Caberum, blend together. As retailnet, Merlot, Shiraz); Hess Seers, the vitality of the categolect “Treo” (California Syrah,
ry—coupled with the lack of
Petite Sirah, Merlot); Hedges
firm definition—means these
Family Estate “CMS” (Washwines demand extra attenington Cabernet, Merlot, Syrtion. First and foremost, the
ah); and Josh “Legacy” (Calistealth sweetness of many
fornia Merlot, Zinfandel,
TOOTI-FRUITI
of these blends is a factor
Sirah and Petite Sirah).
to be reckoned with, for
The flip side of breaking old
Of course, under and
your customers’ sake.
rules is making a new identity;
over
$12, given the natmany Red Blends wear their fruity
It’s critical to know
character on their sleeves, so
ural
appeal
and market
which wines camp on
to speak. With grapes and
momentum, this might
places out of the picture,
the soft, jammy side
personality becomes a
be
just the time to some
of the tannin fence.
huge factor.
blends
expressly because of
Consider grouping them,
their
fun
labels. ■
with signage that makes
MOST COCKTAILS COME WITH A NAPKIN.
®
THE DARK ’N STORMY COMES WITH A TRADEMARK.
A rose by any other name
may smell as sweet, but a Dark ’n
Stormy by any other rum would
not taste as great. In truth, it
wouldn’t even be a Dark ’n Stormy.
This is one of very few cocktails to earn a US Government
trademark. Not to protect us, to
protect the drink. Because there’s
a huge difference between Black
Seal Rum and any other.
It’s a deep, luscious rum made
from a 160-year old family recipe
using three individually aged
distillates.
And don’t even get us started
on ginger beers! We crafted Stormy
Ginger Beer to harmonize perfectly
with Black Seal into the ultimate
Dark ’n Stormy.
The lime? We sure recommend
it but it’s not etched in stone.
For Seven Stubborn Generations
www.goslingsrum.com We make it slowly, stubbornly. Please enjoy it slowly, responsibly. 40% ABV. Product of Bermuda. Castle Brands, NY, NY.
LEFT: The Oaxaca Express at La Contenta in
NYC is made with jalapeño-infused mezcal,
orange Curaçao, lime, basil and cucumber.
ON THE CUSP
T H E W I L D AGAVE S P IR IT IS STA RTING TO
B E C O M E TH E BAR T END ER’S B EST FRIEND
BY JACK ROBERTIELLO
W
hen Del Maguey topped
a list of international bartenders’ favorite brands
in a survey conducted by
UK trade publication Drinks International,
even mezcal fans were stunned. How did
such a small brand from a tiny, often disregarded category catch the world’s fancy?
Mezcal in general is on an upsurge.
Despite its reputation as an extreme spirit
in many way, it dovetails with a number
of drink trends. It is often a rural product,
primarily produced in small batches at
farm-based palenques. It is distilled in
copper or sometimes clay or wood stills,
made from various agave varieties that
are often harvested, roasted, crushed and
cooked using antique methods. And,
a key for bartenders: Its often intense,
potent, smoky, deeply layered character
is capable of standing out in drinks made
with five and six ingredients.
All that suddenly puts mezcal in the
sweet spot of spirits, says spirits educator
Steve Olson, who has trained thousands
of bartenders and informally represents
Del Maguey and acts as a mezcal advocate:
“Obviously we’ve come from mezcal being
a product that very few people drank or
even understood, even a cult thing, until
it has now grown up and become its own
category in the U.S. It’s exciting to see.”
DISCOVERY TRANSPLANTED
While industrial mezcals exist, it’s the
artisanal brands that capture passionate
affection from bartenders. Ivy Mix
discovered her passions for both bar
culture and mezcal as a college student
traveling in Guatemala. Now the owner
of the Brooklyn bar Leyenda, her fondness
of mezcal remains clear as it anchors three
of the 16 listed drinks, and more than 20
brands are shelved behind the bar.
BOBBY HUEGEL / THE PASTRY WAR BY JULIE SOEFER / LA CONTENTA BY DARA KARAC
MEZCAL
ABOVE: Bobby Heugel at his Houston
establishment The Pastry War, which he calls a
“mezcaleria.”
MIXING MEZCAL
El Buho partner John Henry pitches his mezcal as an agave
spirit for whiskey lovers. The El Buho Smoky Paloma cocktail
is made with equal parts mezcal, pink grapefruit juice, San
Pellegrino Pomelo soda and half a part fresh lime juice.
mortar and online agave sellers, have
ramped up what they carry—Old Town
stocks about 150, says owner Zack
Romaya—most agave observers credit
the growth to the small, growing group
of avid aficionados and the turn by
bartenders to the robust flavors.
“Our menu is structured by agave
varietal as our approach is to provide
people with some understanding, a wine
perspective, even,” says Heugel.
It’s an approach also taken by John
Henry, partner in El Buho Mezcal, now
sold in about 20 states. “Mezcal will never
be like tequila, and it’s hard to see a 50
state brand, but getting people interested
in who is actually making it, where they
live and how they produce these spirits in
a craft fashion, makes mezcal more like
wine, or craft spirits.” He pitches El Buho
as an agave spirit for whiskey lovers, a
commonality based on the smoke-bomb
reputation of mezcal which some
producers have mitigated.
ON-PREMISE PROGRESS
Many bars are finding new ways to use
mezcal. Take Chicago’s Público; most of
the cocktail menu features updated takes
on classic Latin-American cocktails,
but the Clavo Oxidado puts a spin
on the Rusty Nail, chef/owner Mike
Randolph late father’s favorite drink.
Beverage director Jeffrey Moll explains,
“Both Scotch and mezcal have similar
flavor profiles and share the common
characteristic of smokiness.”
La Contenta in NYC is a microcosmic example of what’s going on: Alex
Valencia, head bartender, says he orders about 10 cases of mezcal per week
to keep up with demand, about twice
his tequila volume. Mezcal has become
the default base spirit for drinks like
the Mezcalita, the house Margarita
variant, and he stocks 35 different
mezcals, including as many varietals
as he can. His dream is mezcal-based
as well: to make his Oaxaca Express
cocktail (jalapeño-infused mezcal,
ALEX
orange Curaçao, lime, basil and
VALENCIA AT LA
CONTENTA,
cucumber) a classic.
NYC
Heugel says at his Anvil Bar &
Refuge, one of the most popular house
cocktails is The Brave (Del Maguey
Chichicapa Mezcal, Tapatio Tequila,
Averna Amaro, orange liqueur and
Angostura bitters, served in a wine glass
at room temperature). “It’s the only drink
we’ve never taken off the menu, and the
mezcal cuts right through the flavors of
the amaro and orange and makes a great
intro to the category.”
ALEX VALENCIA / LA CONTENTA BY DARA KARAC
Drinks like Tia Mia (mezcal, Jamaican
rum, orgeat, orange curaçao and lime)
test the limits of what consumers have
come to expect from the rustic spirit. “The
range of flavors and different intensities of
mezcals make it very attractive as a mixing
spirit,” says Mix. “Different producers are
getting the flavor nuances of different
agaves, making mezcal a great backbone
for a cocktail.”
Houston’s The Pastry War—called a
“mezcaleria” by co-owner Bobby Heugel
of The Anvil fame—features more than
20 mezcals from nine different suppliers,
each listed with notes for region, agave
varietal and distiller.
Bars like these are considered the
driving force behind a recent boomlet in
mezcal: approximately 50,000 cases were
sold in 2014, up by nearly 5%, according
to Technomic Inc.’s recently published
SpiritsTAB. While some retailers, like
Old Town Tequila in San Diego, one
of the country’s best-known brick and
KEEPING AN EDGE
Among producers, Judah Kuper has
been bringing a variety of mezcals
made by his father-in-law and one
other small producer for two years, and
at 20 states, the Vago brand has about
reached its production limit, though
he has been on the hunt for other local
farmers who can contribute.
Kuper, a former ski and surf bum,
says mezcals like Vago have found
a market with wine and Scotch
drinkers, especially chefs and foodies.
“We joke about it, but great chefs and
bartenders are drinking our stuff after
their shifts and that’s accounting for a
lot of our sales.”
Retailer Romaya mentions mezcal
brands like Illegal, Alipus, Fidencio
and Scorpion as better-known, and
his site ranks Wahaka and Del Maguey
as among the most popular of all his
spirits.
The different varietals—Tobala,
Espadin, Madre Cuishe, others—
are starting to penetrate industry
consciousness, as well as consumers
looking for something new. “People
are starting to understand that mezcal
is smoky and tequila not—that’s
awesome. But beyond that, they are
only starting to find out what other
flavors are in mezcal that vary from
tequila,” says Heugel. El Buho’s Henry
thinks tequila producers have taken
notice, as some major brands have
returned to using stone tahonas to
grind their agaves and including the
agave fibers, called bagasse, in their
fermentations.
The Picador cocktail is made with
Montelobos Mezcal, lemon juice, simple
syrup and sal de gusano (an Oaxacan
spice made from sea salt, toasted and
ground agave worms and chile costeño).
Montelobos, imported by William Grant
& Sons, presents to the trade as mezcal
worthy of sipping as well as mixing.
Mezcal brands that have been sold
in the U.S. for a long time, like Monte
Alban and Gusano Rojo haven’t
been getting the attention the way
newer iterations, like Montelobos,
have. Brand creator Ivan Saldaña
and U.S. brand ambassador Camille
Austin say that mezcal still requires
education and explanation at all levels
of the supply chain to get both the
trade and customers engaged. “The
cornerstone of letting people know
what Montelobos is, is educating first
about the category and then secondary
is discussing what makes Montelobos
unique,” they agree.
Like many mezcal fans, Heugel is
concerned about the fragile ecosystem
that produces the agaves essential
to quality mezcal, and worries that
trying to emulate their neighbors in
Jalisco, where tequila has grown to
phenomenal volumes, would ruin
mezcal’s hard-won mystique and
essential spirit.
So, too, believes Alex Valencia
at La Contenta: “There are so
many now. Some are very good, but
some seems like the owners want
the category to become the next
tequila, focusing on marketing and
promotion. I’m a little worried to see
if mezcal becomes like that.” ■
BOURBON ON TOP
T H E B OU R B O N CR AZ E IS NO F LUK E , A ND IT CONTINUES TO GO UPS C A LE
BY W. BLAKE GRAY
I
“
get emails and calls every week from
people looking for specific bourbons,”
says Frank Pagliaro, owner of Franks
Wine in Wilmington, Delaware. “If
they’re not in my customer database, I don’t
sell it to them. They’re just calling around
to every store.”
Bourbon is the hottest spirit in the
nation, and it’s being driven by the high
end. Nielsen reported in February that
sales of all whiskey were up 6.6% by
volume and 10.7% by value over the year
before, and whiskey now makes up 26.4%
of all spirits sold by volume in the country.
I r i s h a n d J a p a n ese whi ske y a re
growing even faster from smaller bases.
But it is Bourbon and other American
whiskies that have ignited a buying craze
that cuts uniquely across age and gender.
“It’s every age group, male and female,”
Pagliaro says. “We do a whiskey tasting
every week. You’ll have a 21-year-old guy
there with his girlfriend standing next to
an 80-year-old guy.”
This wasn’t the case a generation ago.
“In the 1980s, I was driving down I-95 and
I was with the president of Four Roses,”
recalls Joe Magliocco, now president
of Mitchter’s “There was a funeral
procession going the other way and he
said, ‘Joe, there goes another brown-goods
drinker.’ Bourbon was an old man’s drink
in the 1980s. But now you see groups like
Whiskey Chicks and Bourbon Women.
Whiskey appreciation has really spread to
a much wider demographic.”
SPIRIT’S PROGRESS
The phenomenon started in bars. Mixologists generally prefer working with whiskey to white spirits like vodka and gin.
Television has also played a role. Whiskey
smuggling during Prohibition was the
lynchpin of HBO’s Boardwalk Empire, and
characters frequently savored a glass of
straight whiskey. On Mad Men, the main
character Don Draper drank Old Fashioned cocktails—one of the simplest of
all whiskey cocktails—frequently enough
that some bars ran Mad Men specials. At
Locanda in San Francisco, you can get an
Old Fashioned flight.
Dan Cohen, PR director for Beam
Suntory, credits flavored bourbons with
providing a spark. “Flavored whiskies bring
in people who were previously intimidated
by brown spirits. And 45% of Red Stag
drinkers are women. That’s a lot higher
than with unflavored whiskey.” Beam’s Red
Stag debuted in 2009 as one of the fastest
spirit launches of the 21st century, and
opened the gate for other flavored entries.
Unlike with flavored vodkas, which are
®
JIM BEAM® APPLE AND SODA
1 part Jim Beam® Apple Bourbon
2 parts club soda
Lemon wedge for garnish
Build over ice in a tall glass
and garnish with a lemon wedge.
®
Jim Beam Apple, Apple Liqueur with Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 35% Alc./Vol.
©2015 James B. Beam Distilling Co., Clermont, KY.
NEW WHISKIES
One retailer saw his
something of a spiritous
dead end, many flavored
whiskey sales take off
whiskey consumers appear
after he stopped selling
to graduate to straight
cheaper spirits.
whiskey.
The boom caught most
distillers by surprise, and
because top-quality bourWhen Michter’s started, it didn’t even
bons spend years in barneed a still. “We had our pick of great
rels, producers have been
stuff because Kentucky was awash in
scrambling to catch up. Buffalo Trace angreat whiskey and nobody had any idea
nounced rolling blackouts in distribution
what to do with it,” Magliocco says. Now
in 2013. “We’re distilling more than we
Michter’s has two stills of its own.
have in the last 40 years,” Harlen Wheatley, Buffalo Trace Master Distiller said in
BULLISH ON THE HIGH END
2014. “Still, it’s hard to keep up.”
For retailers, the key to dealing with spot
Many producers are expanding. Four
shortages seems to be to buy whatever
Roses is spending $55 million to build
bourbon your distributors offer, and
a new facility. Maker’s Mark is adding
don’t shy away from anything expensive.
a third still, increasing its production
The proliferation of extensions and new
capacity by 50%. Others are getting
brands has given the category vibrancy at
more creative in enhancing existing
all price points.
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10:51 AM
brands with flavors, proofs, barrel
“Our reps know that we’ll take anything
finishes and such.
craft that comes our way, so when they get
a couple cases of something, they give us
a call,” Pagliaro says. In May, when he did
get a few bottles of Pappy Van Winkle,
rather than deal with disappointing some
of his customers, Pagliaro auctioned
them off to his mailing list and gave the
proceeds to charity.
Interestingly, Pagliaro says his
whiskey sales, and margins, have taken
off since he stopped selling cheaper spirits.
“Last year I got rid of all our half gallons,”
he says. “I thought: let people go up the
street for them. I made room for really
good old craft bourbons and craft beers.
It’s working. People come in and say,
‘You’ve got the best selection.’”
Oscar Garcia, spirits buyer for 67 Wines
in Manhattan, says his store is also doing
best with the high-end expressions. “You
get people walking in every day looking for
them,” Garcia says. “American whiskies
have taken a very prominent place in our
shop.” When he does get a rare bottle,
Garcia doesn’t put it on the shelf. Instead,
“we offer them to our best customers, who
want to drink the whiskey rather than put
it on the black market,” Garcia says.
Bourbon appears to be settling
comfortably into an era like wine in the
late 1990s, with lots of room to grow and a
customer base that isn’t going to age out of
the market. “People are willing to try lots of
different things,” Garcia says. “It’s a very fast
category and I don’t see it slowing down.”
MAKING IT SPECIAL
SPECIAL FINISHES
• Jim Beam Sherry Cask
• Woodford Reserve “Four
Wood”
• Woodford Master's Pinot Noir
Finish
• Colonel E.H. Taylor Cured
Oak Bourbon
• Jim Beam Signature Craft
Quarter Cask
• Michter's Toasted Barrel
EXTRA AGING
• Elijah Craig 23-Year-Old
• Orphan Barrel (Lost
The romance (and value) of bourbon has
Prophet, Barterhouse,
been boosted in recent years by a number
Rhetoric, Forged Oak)
of techniques aimed at distinguishing
• Booker’s Bourbon
special bottlings from their peers. Wood
Roundtable: Bluegill Creek
treatments, extra aging and other
Batch
• Booker’s Bourbon Roundtable:
nuances are brought front and center in
Booker & Bar
the packaging and marketing of these
•
Booker’s
Bourbon Roundtable: bourbons, and the added depth and
Cast a Line
complexity
of the liquids can be used as
d-BDf-prt-BDsjh-BeverageMediaGroup-Aug2015-halfpgAd-v1.pdf
1
7/9/15
• Wild Turkey
Master’s11:05
KeepAM
(17
upselling points.
years old)
• Blade and Bow 22-year-old
• Old Forester 1870 Original Batch
SINGLE BARRELS
• Parker’s Heritage Collection
• Evan Williams Single Barrel
2006 Vintage
• Old Forester Birthday
Bourbon
CASK STRENGTH
• Angel’s Envy Cask Strength
• Elijah Craig Barrel Strength
• George T. Stagg Jr.
• Maker's Mark Cask Strength
OTHER
• Jefferson’s Ocean Aged at Sea
• Buffalo Trace Experimental
Collection (the latest is French Oak)
• Blade and Bow
• Jefferson’s The Manhattan
(barreled with vermouth
and bitters)
Tourism is becoming an increasingly
important link between Americans and
Bordeaux; many châteaus are happy
to entertain guests. These visits can
form life-long links between customers
and the region.
what’s your
bordeaux strategy?
S e l l i n g w in es f ro m t h i s i conic region ca n pose cha l l enges —
but t he effort pays off
F
or many casual wine consumers—and not a few experts—
the news coming out of Bordeaux these days sounds like
the place is a total mess.
❂ The British wine merchants and
journalists are declaring—again—that if
the Bordelais don’t change their greedy
ways, gloom will fall along the Gironde
and perhaps even frogs – grenouilles – will
rain down from the heavens.
❂ Robert Parker is—again—making
it well-known that he is quite miffed that
his friends among the châteaux owners
are not taking his sage pricing advice.
technical improvements in Bordeaux
have produced stunning vintages during
this century (and that only people of a
certain age can remember a truly rotten
harvest); and in spite of the fact that
there is quality, affordable Bordeaux in
red, white and sweet offerings at all but
the lowest price points.
“We are trying the get across the message that everybody can drink Bordeaux,”
says Mary Gorman-McAdams, North
America market advisor for the Conseil
❂ And the 2014 vintage is seeing—
again—price increases over comparable
vintages, even though the Chinese have
sobered up from their long buying binge.
As a result, many retailers continue to
express concern that buying and selling
Bordeaux ain’t what it used to be.
All this in spite of the fact that
Bordeaux wines have been a cultural
touchstone to a generation of American
wine drinkers; in spite of the fact that
The landscape of Bordeaux has changed little
over decades, but the winemaking technology
has advanced, enabling consistent quality at
all price points.
Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux
(CIVB), the Bordeaux Wine Council. “It
doesn’t have to be that complicated.”
But in many ways it is complicated.
While most Bordeaux by volume is sold
directly to importers, as is standard for
most wine produced outside the U.S.,
much top classified Bordeaux is sold
through a complex system known as
futures. In this, brokers and negociants
buy wines en primeur for future delivery,
hence the term “buying futures.”
The Bordeaux futures system has
existed for more than 30 years, so it is wellknown to the trade and connoisseurs, says
Matthieu Bordes, Director of Château
Lagrange. “But it is probably much more
difficult for the new generations who have
grown up with new technology, web and
internet where everything goes faster with
less and less intermediaries,” he adds.
We talked to a number of people
in Bordeaux and the U.S. about how
retailers can develop better strategies
for selling more Bordeaux and for giving
their customers a better appreciation of
the region:
top right photograph courtesy of CIVB
By roger morris
A certain degree of
education will always
be part of selling
Bordeaux, beginning
with the permitted
grape varieties.
top photography courtesy of CIVB
At right, Semillon,
which is blended with
Sauvignon Blanc in
white Bordeaux.
York City, an offshoot of the Bordeaux
❂ Look for quality, low-price wines
❂ Counter lower internet pricing
negociant, emphasizes the importance
in satellite regions and in second
by emphasizing safe sourcing.
of retailers having a few recent vintages
wines. Bordeaux is so much
Some retailers shy away from
available—some ready to drink, some big
more than Médoc, Graves,
selling great growths because
and bold, some elegant and all at different
Sauternes, Pomerol and Stthey are often cheaper on the
prices. “You sell every vintage differently,”
Émilion. Great quality and
internet. Jean-Louis Carbonshe says.
value exist in the satellites of
nier, director for the Americas
For Peter Zavialoff, Bordeaux “scout”
St-Émilion, the various Côtes
for Château Palmer, counJean-Louis Carbonnier
at the Wine House in San Francisco,
and in Entre-Deux-Mers. For
ters that “much of that wine
futures remain important, but, like
those who want an affinity with great
was purchased in previous years and is
many retailers, he loads up on
growths, most of these châteaux have
being re-sold into the market.”
less-expensive years to have
“second,” even “third” wines that are
Thus its provenance and cona constant inventory for
often a bigger step down in price than
dition can be questionable.
consumers who love Bordeaux.
in quality. As Bordes notes, “We often
Buying through a recognized
hear that Bordeaux classified growths are
distributor is much safer, he
❂ Make Bordeaux a must for
expensive, but we are talking about only
says, and the customer can
everyone starting a wine cellar.
150 very well-known châteaux out of
appreciate this. “Don’t try to
Many regions have caught the
10,000 Bordeaux wines.”
sell just on lowest price,” he says,
Matthieu Bordes
fancy of critics and consumers in
but sell on assurance of source
recent decades, but red Bordeaux remains
❂ Think of small estate producers the way
and quality.
a gold standard for aging because of its
you would “grower Champagne,” advises
grapes, terroir and winemaking style. And
Kristina Sazama, French portfolio
❂ Use vintage variation to your adthat’s true not just for the classified growths.
manager for Michael Skurnik
vantage. Everyone we talked to
A few cases of petit châteaux at $20-$30
Wines, a really clever approach.
emphasized two things about
a bottle is a great investment for future
Choose four or five good-forvintages: they are of good
everyday drinking.
the-price estates and promote
quality regardless of year, and
the “grower” angle.
the variation in vintages can
❂ Look for Bordeaux-trained experts to
appeal to different tastes and
help close the sale. There are experts
❂ For entry-level customers,
pocketbooks. So-called “claseager to assist retailers in getting
treat Bordeaux like a new
sic
vintages”
cost
less
than
Thomas Lambert-Laurent
customers educated and excited.
product, says Stephan Adams,
“century vintages” and make
Gorman-McAdams says the CIVB has
owner of the Liquor Store in Jackson
great food wines for on-premise accounts,
32 trained Bordeaux tutors in the U.S.
Hole, Wyoming. “People want to learn
Carbonnier says.
Many large, classified growths
about new products, and for many
Selective Origin’s Thomas
regularly have their people here
Americans brought up on California
Lambert-Laurent, who consults
working the trade. Bordes
wines, Bordeaux is a new product.”
Bordeaux wineries on U.S.
says he is often in America
This also why several distributors
marketing, flatly says, “There
doing “tasting events to
suggest mainstreaming Bordeaux into
aren’t bad vintages, only bad
meet customers, sommeliers,
tastings featuring Cabernet and Merlot.
winemakers”—and he is probtrade and also doing some
Bordeaux usually fares well, plus everyday
ably right.
winemaker dinners, university
Bordeaux is often less expensive than
Hortense Bernard, manager
Hortense Bernard
tastings or press lunches.” n
California counterparts.
of Millisema retail store in New
Chablis (LEFT) is over-delivering up and down
the price spectrum; you can get Grand Cru
Chablis for the price of basic Bourgogne Rouge
bottlings from high-end names. The Chardonnay
of Auxey-Duresses (TOP LEFT) has been dubbed
the poor (wo)man’s Meursault while in the Pinot
Noir department, Monthélie (ABOVE) holds a similar
resemblance to Volnay.
burgundy
that won’t break the bank
H i g h p r ices ? T hat’s o ld news. B urgundy’s resurgence
i n q uality has c r eated pock ets of real value
By Christy Canterbury MW
B
urgundy’s wines legendarily
command high prices, and
that won’t be changing any
time soon, even with the recent free-fall of the Euro. Not only are the
wines attracting more and more attention,
the last four vintages have been “short”—
with miserably low yields in the Côte de
Beaune. Many vintners there have lost the
equivalent of two vintages between 2011
and 2014, thanks to hail and poor weather
as well as to the sorting they necessitated.
Still, values remain. In fact, the
expensive stuff easily represents less than
a third of the region’s output. A handful
of winemakers who produce wine for
prestigious estates also make wines under
their own name. Well-known producers
looking to work with something different,
to introduce a more affordable wine
for everyday drinking or to add to their
vineyard holdings are adding lesserknown appellations to their line-ups.
Looking at the two primary varieties,
Chardonnay lovers score the biggest win.
Finicky Pinot Noir’s yields are naturally
much lower. Besides, only about 28% of
Burgundy’s overall production is red wine.
Scarcity commands a higher price.
There is good reason people are drinking more Burgundy, and it’s not just the
lingering halo effect of Sideways. The last
20 years brought a revolution in quality.
It began in the vineyard, and today organic and biodynamic farming are widely
practiced. This kind of TLC makes sense
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B urgundy wines
for a region whose story has been based
on the concept of terroir since the days
of the Cistercian and Clunesian monks.
Most younger winemakers graduated from
winemaking school and have worked in
cellars elsewhere. In the cellars, sorting
tables are pervasive. Vintages like 2007,
2008 and 2011 that would have been
dismissed even 15 years ago can now
be finessed into lovely mid-term wines.
Burgundy has come of age.
Here’s a quick guide to navigating quality
Burgundy without breaking the bank.
Overlooked Gems. There are many
unsung villages within the Côte d’Or. For
example, Auxey-Duresses has been dubbed
the poor (wo)man’s Meursault while Monthélie holds a similar resemblance to Volnay. If Puligny-Montrachet is your kind of
juice and even the more value-oriented
Saint Aubin (which lies above and behind
the hill of this more prestigious appellation) is too pricey, try a Rully for a slightly
richer style of Chardonnay or a Montagny
for a leaner, more minerally wine.
Reds from lesser-known villages
hold their own in the value spectrum,
too. Fixin remains in the shadow of
Gevrey-Chambertin just to the south.
Just compare the prices of a Fixin and
a Gevrey-Chambertin from the same
producer. There are many!
Marsannay is another fine example:
Despite hosting several primo vineyards,
the village boasts no Premier Crus. Not
that producers haven’t been working
on changing this for over a dozen years.
Until—and if—the national appellation
governing body gets around to making a
decision, the top wines will continue to
sell for less than they surely would with a
Premier Cru appellation.
Speaking of which, Premier Crus from
off-the-radar villages often sell for less
than the price of a village wine in a wellknown appellation. Many of them age
beautifully, too.
Beyond Côte d’Or. Of course,
there’s more to Burgundy than the Côte
d’Or. For reds, the Côte Chalonnaise
makes some lovely bottlings, particularly
in Givry and Mercurey. A bit further south,
the Mâconnais is slightly better-known
for whites. This is the home of PouillyFuissé, Saint Véran and a smattering of
villages whose names follow the regional
wine name Mâcon.
All hail Chablis. Up-and-down
the price spectrum, this northern Burgundy outpost over-delivers. Consider that
some Côte d’Or basic Bourgogne Rouge
bottlings from high-end names (MéoCamuzet, de Montille, Fourrier) cost
more than a bottle of Grand Cru Chablis, hovering in the $35-40 range! And
for $15 and under, there is tremendously
zingy Petit Chablis.
NEGOCIANTS STILL MATTER. All
across Burgundy, many small producers
are making wines from purchased grapes,
must or wine. These “négociant” labels,
going back a decade or more, enabled a
The soil of Chablis contains marine fossils
responsible for a significant lime content.
producer to expand a range of wines and
to possibly either acquire coveted grapes
from top Crus or buy more entry-level
grapes or juice to help with cash flow.
In the last four years, this has become a
much more competitive game with the
lower yields. Prices are creeping up, but
this is still a category worth mining.
All that bubbles. Burgundy’s
crémants are crafted in the méthode
champenoise style and made mostly
from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (with
the occasional Pinot Blanc or Gamay
thrown in), grown on a good portion of
limestone. Yet, they easily cost half the
price of non-vintage brut Champagne.
Crémant de Bourgogne is a thriving category, so don’t miss its rise. In the last decade Crémant has risen from 1% to 8% of
Burgundy’s production! n
LEFT: The Premier Cru vineyard of Butteaux,
within Chablis. RIGHT: Crémant de Bourgogne
is made using the classic méthode champenoise,
including riddling by hand. Crémant now
represents 8% of Burgundy’s production
(up from 1% just a decade ago). Only about
28% of Burgundy’s overall production is red
wine; a solid majority is Chardonnay.
Congratulations to the following 2015 ABL Retailers of the Year:
JD’s Market and Spirits
Tuscaloosa
AL
Joe Blogz
Lakeside
MT
Total Beverage
Thornton
CO
Sunny’s Liquors
Passaic
NJ
Alaskan Brewing Company
ABC Fine Wine & Spirits
Juneau
Orlando
FL
Breese
IL
Legacy Beverage Center
Loganville
Northside Liquors
Seymour
The Dutchmen’s Tavern
The Party Source
House of Liquors
Bellevue
Westminster
Town Center Market
Riverdale
Freddie’s Fine Spirits
Meridian
Huntington Wine & Spirits
AK
Boston
GA
Northshore Entertainment
Lehigh Wines and Liquors
Gates Circle Wine & Liquor
IN
Bouharoun’s Fine Wines
and Spirits
MD
Bourbon Street Food & Spirits
Las Vegas
Bronx
Buffalo
Greenville
NV
NY
NY
SC
KY
Tony K’s Home of Fine Spirits
Houston
TX
MD
Town & Country
Supermarket Liquors
Cheyenne
WY
MA
MS
Please Drink Responsibly.
©2015 Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY. | Visit us at Brown-Forman.com
Green Bay
WI
BA RTA L K
KINDRED
SPIRITS
BLA K E PO P E ,
K I ND R E D, DAVID S O N , NC
BY ALIA AKKAM
S
et in a circa-1914 building that once housed the town pharmacy, Kindred is a
three-story restaurant that illuminates seasonal cooking in a Southern college
town 20 minutes north of Charlotte. The libations spawned at the intimate
bar are just as compelling as what Joe Kindred turns out in the kitchen.
THE BEVERAGE NETWORK: The
South has become a mecca for food
and drink, and Kindred is now a part
of that Have you noticed an evolution
of Charlotte?
BLAKE POPE: I think there’s been a slower
resurgence in Charlotte since it’s a commuter
city and there are many transplants, but the
farm-to-table movement has taken hold
here. All these chefs and bartenders coming
together to form a community is awesome—
and a complete 180 in thinking.
TBN: Kindred is known for its food.
How do you run a bar that both
complements that star power and
stands on its own?
BP: Chef Joe has a very classic and
simplistic approach to his cooking, and the
ingredients speak for themselves instead
of relying on flashy techniques and foams.
When developing the cocktail program I
took into consideration his style and put
the emphasis on spirit-driven drinks. Just
like with food, ingredients should first and
foremost be celebrated, never masked.
TBN: Do you and Chef collaborate?
BP: We always work hand in hand in
terms of what’s in season. What they’re
“We revamp our
menu about every
two months and go
through a pretty heavy
series of testing.”
using in the back of the house often
makes its way to the front of the house,
but Joe is also really helpful in lending
his palate and telling us what needs to
be tweaked. We revamp our menu about
every two months and go through a pretty
heavy series of testing.
TBN: For a restaurant in a small town
you have quite the ambitious cocktail
list. The Velvet Elvis for instance, with
rum, banana and lime, features peanut
orgeat; and the Fashionable Bird is
spiked with Calabrian chiles. Were
you nervous something this geeky
wouldn’t fly with your guests?
BP: I was uncertain of the response, but
we wanted to truly express ourselves so
we decided we should just stick to our
guns and go for it. I’ve been surprised
by how well received it all is. While there
are some folks who just want a Moscow
Mule, our customers are typically well
traveled and they go out to eat and
drink a lot. They have seen what we
are doing before. With some guests it
takes a bit of extra time, and for them
I’m happy to open a bottle so they can
check out something new.
TBN: They probably get excited about
such an introduction.
BP: Absolutely. They realize nothing is
too esoteric. We’re in the midst of our
summer menu now and the Pimm’s Cup is
especially popular. So is the Star Daisy with
gin, Calvados, lemon and a Muscadine that
we actually use as our house grenadine. We
always want our guests to feel comfortable
so there are favorites like a Manhattan
variation at all times.
TBN: With customers having a
predilection to order the familiar,
I imagine bar staff are well trained
to encourage them to explore a
little more.
BP: We’ve got a tight-knit crew here and
everyone knows the ingredients inside
and out so they can sell these drinks very
well. At Saturday training sessions we’ll
take it from the bottom and go through all
the menu’s progressions and changes,
but we also talk about our interactions
with guests. What are you enjoying about
this drink? What’s interesting about it to
you? How would you sell this? These are
all important questions. n

Congratulations to the following 2015 ABL

Transcription

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