On Looking at a Vodou Altar
Transcription
On Looking at a Vodou Altar
On Looking at a Vodou Altar Author(s): Donald J. Cosentino Source: African Arts, Vol. 29, No. 2, Special Issue: Arts of Vodou (Spring, 1996), pp. 67-70 Published by: UCLA James S. Coleman African Studies Center Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/3337370 Accessed: 28/02/2010 12:16 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of JSTOR's Terms and Conditions of Use, available at http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp. JSTOR's Terms and Conditions of Use provides, in part, that unless you have obtained prior permission, you may not download an entire issue of a journal or multiple copies of articles, and you may use content in the JSTOR archive only for your personal, non-commercial use. Please contact the publisher regarding any further use of this work. Publisher contact information may be obtained at http://www.jstor.org/action/showPublisher?publisherCode=jscasc. Each copy of any part of a JSTOR transmission must contain the same copyright notice that appears on the screen or printed page of such transmission. JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. UCLA James S. Coleman African Studies Center is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to African Arts. http://www.jstor.org Altars On Looking Vodou Happen at a Altar KARENMcCARTHYBROWN DONALDJ. COSENTINO wantto change yourview of altarsby tellingyou a few things about them in HaitianVodou. Altarshappen. Altarsmust be fed. Altars must be awakened.Altarswax and wane in potency.Altarsbreathe. Altarstell stories. Altarsrevealthe state of being of individualsand communities.Altarscan be in a bottle,or underyourskin, or buriedin youryard.They can be hung in the raftersof a house or the limbsof a tree, or they can be placed on the ground,on a table, or at the foot of a tree. A grave can even be an altar.Altarsare places wherethe livingand the dead, the humanand the divine,meet. Altarsare places wherehealing happens. To understandwhat I mean by healing, we need a few basic terms. In Vodoucircles konesans refersto sacred knowledge, the knowledge of how to heal. It is a word witha wide referentialfield including complex informationabout herbs and arcane teachings. Most importantis the fact thatkonesans refersto open channels of communication withthe ancestors and the spiritswho providethe healerwithinformation about what is going on at the deepest levels of persons, or even about what willhappen to them in the future. "Heatingup"is anothertermused in relationto healing. It is always used in an active mode, as in:"Thespiritswillnot come to help us until the ceremonyis byen shofe,"well heated up. Itis onlywhen the singers, dancers, and drummersat a Vodouceremonyare performingenthusiasticallythatthe spiritswillbe enticed to "ride"one of the faithful.Yetit is not only large groups that are able to heat things up sufficientlyto bring about transformation.A healer's own energy can be similarly raised and heated by gazing into a candle flame when she wishes to call one of the spiritsfor help in performinga treatment.And if charms are expected to workover time, they also must be periodically"heated up"by being focused on and prayedover.Oftena candle is lightedby the charmor "point"as partof this process. A point,or pwen, is the ritualcondensationof a thing.Whenhealing charms are called pwen, it means that, in them, human and divine energies have been broughtto an exquisitefocus so they can be used to bring about healing transformations.When change is desired in a relationshiphot with anger, a pwen can be made containingice and sugar syrupto cool it down and sweeten it up. Withthe concepts "point,""knowledge,"and "heatingup,"we move close to the rootmetaphorsthat shape the HaitianVodouunderstanding of healing, and also the Vodou understandingof what an altaris. Altarsare pwen, points of contact between the human realmand the spirits.They are places where someone with sufficientkonesans can D orchestrateenergy, humanand divine,to bringabout healing. A heap of rubble,piled up at random,is the fairestuniverse. Heraclitus Youdon'tmake art,you findit. Youaccept everythingas its material. CharlesSimic t is throughthe perspective of Vodouthat Haitiansconstructtheir peculiar weltanschauung:a way of seeing history,contemporary society, and the superstructureof religionin one master narrative. Fromthis perspective, historycollapses into myth,the secular into the sacred, the momentaryinto the durative. This totalizingvision belongs to Vodou,which doesn't blinkbefore any of Haiti'sbrutal,and often obscene, history.The visiondoesn't lie, but it does force meaning out of everyevent, includingthose whichmoresecularsocieties repress, or even deny. To look at a Vodoualtarclutteredwithsequined whiskey bottles,satinpomanders,clay pots dressed in lace, plasterstatues of St. Anthonyand the laughingBuddha,holycards, politicalkitsch,Dresden clocks, bottlesof Moet&Chandon,rosaries,crucifixes,Masonicinsignia, eye-shadowed kewpiedolls, atomizersof Anais-Anais,wooden phalluses, goat skulls,Christmastree ornaments,and Arawakcelts is to gauge the achievementof slaves and freemenwho imagineda narrativebroad enough and fabricateda ritualcomplex enough to encompass all this disparatestuff. Forcedintothe sugar plantation,mansion,hellhole,cathedral,whorehouse, Masonic lodge, armory, and opera palace of colonial St. Domingue,Africansreassembled the objets trouves according to an aestheticthey carriedintheirheads, theirhearts,theirentirebodies. Out of torn lace, sequins, feathers, and empty whiskey bottles they made workingmodelsof heaven, Guineesof crackedcrystal.Theirsis the work of artists. "Frozenwaterfalls"and "dances for the eyes" is how David Byrne,musicianand impresario,describes theiraltarassemblages. He detritusto "visualjazz, constantly compares sacralizedAfro-Caribbean reworkedand reactivated."Altarsare played, likea musicalinstrument, augmented through constant use. Their aesthetic is improvisational. They are never "finished."Behind the musician'sdescriptionlurksthe iconoclast'snightmare:the suggestion thatreligion,liketheater,depends on artifice.Altarsare stages and priests are actors. Vestmentsare costumes, sacramentalsare props, and all liturgiesenact a provincialversion of the divinecomedy. Vodou has exemplifiedthe intense artificiality of ritualobservance for a very long time. Withinits heterogeneity,Derek Walcottdiscerns the model for all Caribbeanart: Breaka vase, and the love thatreassemblesthe fragments is strongerthanthatlove whichtook its symmetryforgranted when it was whole....Thisgatheringof brokenpieces is the care and pain of the Antilles,and ifthe pieces are dis- * spring1996 african africanarts arts'spring 67 67 I t -; 0 _ .-^ -- , l 4 f't .4 , -U i1 ,r; 4 -- : ;A ' : l I I his altar is set to serve the Iwaof the Rada "nation,"who are considered "pure"African, sweet-natured, and cool. Here ritual specialists may invoke the spirits, make offerings, leave petitions, and do healings on behalf of the Vodou "family." Liquor,perfume, jewelry, soap, money, and other such luxuries are left on the altar as gifts for the Iwa. Catholicchromolithographsare understood to manifest the spirits'divine attributes.EziliFredaas "OurLadyof Lourdes"presides over all the other Iwa from h erniche. St. Peter with the keys to heaven images Legba, who opens an, sepaet-nate all barriers.Gede is given the to the left. Pots wall, space against petitions, and On do he for the Marasa (Sacred Twins)can beave below. the side uxuries are dressingthe lwa whenthey the wall "mount ir horses"duringceremonies. This altar was designed by David Mayo in consultation withoungan Wilfred Ignace. Most of the objects come from the Port-au-Princealtar of Sauveur St. Cyr.The museum installationroughlyadheres to the originalmodel. 68african 68 1996 spring africanarts arts * spring1996 ' ..i l '* :^jj - '.^" U ^ .. .- .- t ^1- I A E i - . +: e - , 4 PHOTO GARY GARNICK. COURTESY OF THE UCLA FOWLER MUSEUM OF CULTURALHISTORY Petwo/Kongo Altar P etwo/Kongo rites honor creolized Iwa with assertive Kongo-derived imagery.Bound medicine packets known as paket kongo, consecrated to spirits such as Simbi Makayaand Ren Kongo, proclaimtheir Kongo identity.Fewer chromolithsappear in Petwo sanctuaries than in Rada ones, though Ezili Danto and Ogou Balendjo (a Petwo warrior)are present in Catholic form. So is St. Expedite, who is set upside down as an inducement to "work"on behalf of his devotee. A framed photo of Jean-BertrandAristide sits next to a statue of Ezili.He is there because, as President of Haiti,he too has lots of "work"to do. The figures standing to either side of the Petwo altar are said to represent male and female Indianchiefs royally"dressed"in ribbons and feathers. But their names and costumes also evoke the royal lineages of Central Africa:Wa Wangol (Kingof Angola), wearing chains, and Ren Kongo (Queen of Kongo), wearing beads. Divination,associated with Petwo rites, is often effected through playing cards like those spread out on the table. The tchatcha (rattle)may be used to summon the Iwafor assistance. This altar was designed by David Mayo in consultation with oungan Wilfred Ignace. Most of the objects come from the Port-au-Prince altars of Silva Joseph and Edner Pierre. The installationroughly adheres to arrangements on Joseph's altar. african arts*spring spring 1996 africanarts * 69 69 parate,ill-fitting, they containmorepainthantheiroriginal sculpture,those icons and sacred vessels takenforgranted in theirancestralplaces. Antilleanartis this restoration of our shatteredhistories,our shards of vocabulary,our archipelagobecoming a synonymfor pieces brokenoff fromthe originalcontinent....Thisis the basis of the Antillean experience, this shipwreck of fragments, these echoes, these shards of a huge tribalvocabulary,these partiallyrememberedcustoms, and they are not decayed butstrong.Theysurvivedthe MiddlePassage. (TheAntilles:Fragmentsof an Epic Memory,1992, p. 2) Haveany people been confrontedwitha moreheterogeneousrepertoire of materialsfor spiritualreconstruction?Which bricoleurshave been so fortunate?Is this the revenge of the Caribbees-that forallthe preposterouscrueltyof slavery,and in partbecause of it,the interiorof an ounfo recalls the extravaganzaof temple life in the Alexandriaof Cleopatra(or Cecil B. De Mille);or the Romeof Isis and Mithras,when was only one of several mysticismschallengingthe hegeChristianity of a mony fadingpantheon?Does the positionof Haitiat the crossroads of the most cosmopolitanroutesof the eighteenthcenturyaccount for the odd congruencebetweenso muchof Vodou(as the exemplaryAfroCaribbeanreligion)and otheragglutinatingreligions:Fon, Kongo,and butalso distantcognates likeHinduism,withits Catholicismhistorically; overlapof Aryanand Dravidiandeities;orthe Cao Daiof Vietnam,which D canonizes Joan of Arc,Confucius,and MadameCurie? FromSacred Artsof HaitianVodou,pp. 27-28. I Married a Voodoo Altar DAVIDMAYO reatingan installationfor "SacredArts of HaitianVodou" was one of the most unusualand satisfyingexperiences of my career.Itbecame a relationshipwitha subjectthatpossesses a remarkablehuman spirit and an aesthetic to which I was immediatelydrawn. The design startedas they all start.A floorplan. Itdesignates three altars. Key elements. The interpretiveculminationof an exhibition whichwe hope willbe the definitiveexplorationof a beliefsystem long malignedand generallymisunderstood.Threesmall bubbles in 6,000 square feet of presentation.The complexityhas grown and steadily taken shape afteryears of conceptual planning.I'veused this time to get inside the head of curatorDonald Cosentino. Where does the scholar'spassion intersectwiththe realityof this thing called Vodou? 70african 70 I'mhaulingthe same stereotypicalbaggage as anyonewho has grown up groovingto the B-moviebliss of / Walkedwitha Zombie,voodoo curses, dolls and pins. The artof Vodouhas reachedout and grabbed me. Thisis serious, lay-it-out-the-way-you-feel-it, no-excuses-no-apologies,get-out-of-theartwhose sole purpose is to change the way-if-you-don't-want-to-play way you see, feel, live. I'msold. Butwhatdoes this have to do withthe exhibition?Timeto reel in the visceral attachmentsand try to understand whatthis all means and what I can do to translatethese feelings intoan exhibition. I nowhave a basic understandingof Vodou. June 1993,Port-au-Prince. I'mstuffedwithhistory,personalities,aesthetics, and interrelationships, but now it is all going to become very real.The consultantshave gathered in the Haitiancapitalto reviewthe organizationof the exhibition. Mydesign accommodates the projectedinventoryof materials,interpretivemoments,visualicons, and yes, altars.The assembled experts poreover every detail.Passionatediscussions synthesizethe physical aspects of the exhibitionwith the spiritualand lifestyle realitiesof Vodou.Butthe lookingglass awaits.Myopportunityto get a littlecloser to Vodoumetaphysicswillfollow. A Vodou ceremony for all the Iwa washes over me. The music pounds intoevery pore, energy spits throughthe seams of communal amen ecstasy. This is not demure,pass-the-host,watered-down-wine, religion.Thisfeels morelikerock& roll.At the zenithof which I'mushered intoEdnerPierre'sGede altarroom.Altar-the nexus of a cosmic playground.Powerseems to visiblysteam offthisthing.Theaestheticis vaguelyhierarchical.Relationshipsdartand merge.Texturesare fueled by a dizzyingrange of object types. Layersof use are evidenced by spent offeringsand libations.The light.The lighttweaks it all intofull motion.Highlightsflicker,seductive shadows weave and dodge, tiny pinpointsdance on murkyreflectives.Herelies the crossroads. I menwhichtug and cajole,yet revealonly tallyfollowpaths intonetherworlds seething power,reverence,function,purpose.Thisis not somethingto be toyed with.Thisaltaris alive and should not be takenforgranted.I makemy offeringand back away,humbled,impressed. November 1994, Port-au-Prince.I'm back in Haitiwith the "Sacred Arts of HaitianVodou"recoveryteam. The U.S. embargo has been lifted,allowingus to returnand recoveraltarobjects languishingin a Port-au-Princewarehouse. We are finallyable to pick up the pieces of our carefulstrategy laid waste by yet anotherroundof corruption, politicalposturing,and discriminationthat has plagued Haitithroughout its history.We move fast. This may be our only chance to put the finalpieces together. A daunting"to-do"list propels us throughthe streets of Port-auPrince.I'mable to document nearlya dozen altars in additionto the ones which providedthe bulkof the materialfor the exhibition.Every altar I see expands my sense of the aesthetic at work here. Vodou altarslead convolutedlives, expandingand contracting,ever evolving. The altarswhichearlierprovidedobjects forthe exhibitionhave metamorphosedand floresced.Theystand withrenewed beauty and undiminishedpower.I'mnow lookingfor power points.The confluence of aesthetic which dictates commonality.A commonalitywhich breeds a near nuclear visual reaction. Color, light, spatial qualities, texture, 1996 arts* spring africanarts? spring1996