Untitled - Auberge Presbytère Mont Lac-Vert

lluil
llllilllil
Saguenay Fiord was at a nasty, rolling boil, a chaotic mess of black
/T\h"
and white and silver foam lacking any discernible pattern. Looking over
I
I
-y shoulder, I could see three- and four-foot waves rolling down the
fjord behind us at a 45-degree angle, but our kayaks were getting hit by waves
reflecting off the rock wall less than 200 metres to our right.
W e h a d b e e n w a r n e d o f t h e d a n g e r so f s u r f i n gb y o u r g u i d e ,M a r t i n - F r é d é r i c
B e r t h i a u m ea,n d i t t o o k r e a lc o n c e n t r a t i onno t t o l e t t h e w a v e ss i m p l yt a k eu s d o w n
. h i l e s u r f i n gw o u l d h a v e
t h e f j o r d - w h i c h w a s ,a f t e ra l l , w h e r ew e w e r e h e a d i n gW
r e q u i r e dm u c h l e s se f f o r t t h a n k a y a k i n gw
, e w o u l d r u n t h e r i s k o f b e i n gt u r n e d
sidewaysand driven into the frothy mess,which is one of the ways an adventure
can morphintoan ordear.
and free-range
And this was not supposedto be an ordeal.In fact,artisancheeses,
pheasantand local beersburstingwith characterand flavour,were supposedto play
a big part in our trip to the Saguenay
and Lac SaintJeanin Quebec.The plan was to
kayakthe SaguenayFjord,exploreits southernshore,then head northwardto finish
our trip with a three-daypaddleof the northernand easternshoresof Lac Saint-Jean.
Along the way we were hopingto seesomeof what makesSaguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean
so famous:stunningscenery,greatfood and peoplewho know how to enjoyboth.As
soon as the roughoutlinesof the trip startedto emergeI calledmy friendsSeanand
in French,and Marionwill forgct
Marion-Sean knowshow to paddleand can navigate
more aboutfood than mostof us couldeverlearnabout it.
t i n d s ,f o o d w a s t h e l a s tt h i n go, n m y m i n d .
B u t n o w , o u t o n t h e f j o r d i n 1 S - k n ow
I l o o k e da t M a r t i n - F r é d é r i jcu, s t ' l 0 m e t r e sa h e a c l , . l n ci nl m r e r l i a t e liye l t r e a s s u r e d :
h e d i d n o t l o o k c o n c e r n e dT
. h o s ew h o a r e o f t e n a f r a i d ,l i k e m e , a r e e x p e r t sa t
recognizing
c o n c e r ni n p e o p l e ' sf a c e s ,e s p e c i a l l tyh o s eo f d o c t o r so r g u i d e so r a c c o u n t a n t sa, n d l d i d n ' t s e e a n y t h i n g :h e l o o k e d l i k e h e w a s p e e l i n gp o t a t o e sa n d
l i s t e n i n tgo C B C ' sQ o n t h e r a d i o .M a r t i n - F r é d é r i sc a l e v e l - t h r epea d d l e rw i t h m o r e
t h a n 1 0 y e a r s ' e x p e r i e n cgeu i d i n go n t h e f j o r d , a n d e v e r y t h i n gh e d i d r e f l e c t e da
I f.e l t s u r eh e w o u l d g e t u s t o d i n n e r ,a n d
h i g h d e g r e eo f s k i l l a n d p r o f e s s i o n a l i s m
w h e r rh e d i d . i t w o u l d n o t b e o f t h e K r a f td i n n e rk i n d ,c i t h e r .
i''. I r
r',c'ft;.-'
H a v i n gt h eb e n e ift o f a s e a s o n cgdu i c l e on it, I strugglecl
kr grasplrou,the errtire
is critical on the ijord, where rveatlrer re'gion,stretchingr,vestltel,onclOttar,r,.r
a n c l p a c l c l l i n gc o n d i t i o n sc a n c l ' r a n g e a n ds o u t ht o M a i n e ,h a db e e nu n c k rsr a l t q u i c k l ya
, n d w h e r et h e r ea r ef e w p l a c e s w a t e r a s r e c e n t l ya s 1 0 , 0 0 0v e ( r r sa g o .
to get out of the water saic.lywhen the
T h e C h a m p l a i nS e . r ,w h i c h r v a s r e r a l l v
s u r f a c ei s n ' ts o p o l i s h e cTl .h c t i c l e sc l o s e r a s a l t l a t e r i n l e rot f t h c A t l a n t i c( ) c e a n ,
to the enciof the tjorcl,whcre it narrows, w a s c o n s t a n t l vr c c e c l i n gl ) e c . r L r s(ce e r t
reach r-rpto nine knots, wl.ricl.rmakes
t h i s )t h e e a r t h ' sc r L l s t\ \ ' . l s r e l r o r - r n c l i n g
travel by kayak one way only. Ancl
a n d r i s i n go n c c i t r r . r s r e l i e v e col i t h e
even further north, tides of four or five
w e i g h to f a l l t l r a t i c e . S o t h e l n n u a n d
n r e t r e sa r c c o m m o n ,n r a k i n gt i d e t a b l e s otl.rerNativepcoplcsof the regionwere
e s s e n t i af lo r n r u l t i - d a yp a d c l l e sM. a r t i n l i v i n g i n c o . r s t acl o n r r . t . r u n i t iaensc, lt h e
Fréclérictold us that kayakshacl been
n a t i v en a r r c t o r t h c l a n c l - l o c k esda l r . n o n
rvasheclaway by the wavescreatedltv
t h a t i s s t i l li o u n c li n L . r cS a i n t - j e atno c l a , v
t h e l a r g c rt o u r l t o a t st h a t r u n u p a n d
i s " p o o r l i t t l i 'l o s to n e r . "
down the fjord to Tadoussac,
and some
t l r r n e du p B 0 k i l o m e t r c sa w a y o n t h c
s o u t hs h o r eo f t h e S t .L a w r e n c eR i v e r .
Berthiar-rr.ne
is not only an exltert
paclcllcrwith a cleelt ar.rclthorough
éa,-r/",r*
/ ,'rÈ,
krrowlcclgcof the fjorcl,l)ut it turns out
lre's also a vcry altle ancl enthr-rsiastic W c h a c l c l r i v c nn o r t h f r o m M o n t r t , . r
c h e f . W h a t h e a n d O r g a n i s a c t i o (no r - r r t h r o L r eQ
h L r c b c cC i t y ,a n d t h e n t h r o u q l .
hostoutfitter)l.raveirr n.rincl
is aclventurc J a c c l r - rC
Pla r k ,a l o n q . i
c sa r t i c rN . r t i o r . r a
c|r-rring
thc clay,then fine iooclancllteacr- p er i e c l l r s n r o o t hh i g h w a yt l ' r a u
t n f r r r l tj, r
tiful vicws as evening,rcwarcls,
and tlrey
i n f r o n t o i u s l i l < ca g i a n t r i l t l t o n .T h l
r e a l l yc l c l i v cor n a l l c o u n t s .
h i s l r r r ' . rivt s c l iw a s a s u r p r i s cl,t u l r l l t , t i
The fjorclitselfprovicles
thc views,but
S a g L r c n . t r , / L . r c - S a i n th- Jaeda inn s t o r l
its bc.ruty is nrorc than sl<irrclecp:it's
i o r L r sr r ' . r se r t r a o r c l i n a rny a
: t u r al t e a L r t r
a l s o a e e o l o g i c arl v o n c l etrh a t i s w o r t l . r r v i l h o u tc r o r v c l sc,l r a r n r i n gt o w n s ,\ , c r \
t h e t r i p a l < ; n e( a b o i r ti i v c h o L r r sf r o n ' r goorl loocl,.rnclu,arr.r'r,
frienclly1teo1tlc.
\lontreal). lt starteclfornring,
altor-rtiour
\ \ 1 r '. r r r i v e cal t L . r B a i c ,n e a rt h e n o r t l r b i l l i o nv e a r sa g o ,w h i c h i s a n a s t o u n d i n g ('nmrostcncl o[ thc fjorcl,and chccl<crl
r . t u n r b et lr.r aIt c a n ' tv o u c hf o r o r c x l t l a i n i r r t o A L r l r c r s c l c s2 . 1
. Thc lticturescprc
or cven grasltrcally,ltr-rttl.rat's
thc numh o t c l i s k n o un l o r i t s o u t s t a n d i n fgr t o c l
be.rconficler.rtly
asserteclat thc Musée
. r r r r li t s . r r r i a b l co n , n u ra n c l h e a c lc h c i ,
c l u F j o r c li n L a B a i e .T h e f j o r c li s n o w
MarcelBoucharcL
l . L r c k yf o r u s , h c ' s . r
.100-kilonretre-lonÉl
a
t r e n c h , a l n r o s t s t r o n g b e l i c v e ri n t h c v a l u e c l f l < t c a l
275 nretrescleeltin ltlaces,left ltehincl foocl, ancl even thc hcrlts useclin thc:
afterr.r mile cleep slalt oi ice n-reltecl r e s t a L r r aanrtea l l l o c a l l yB r o w n .
. r b o u t2 0 , 0 0 0y e a r sa g o .T h e i c e s h e e t s
l n t h e n r o r n i n gw e m a c l et i m e t o h e a c l
i'r-rtclcclt into tl.reSagr-rerray
Cralten,a
up to Fror.nagerie
LesBergeries
du Fjclrcl,
p o r t i o n < t f t h e e a r t h ' sc r u s t , g o r - r g i n g a b o u t l 0 n r i n u t e sf r o n r L a B a i e .I l r a c l
r l r c i i r t r c il n t h e l t r o c e s sW
l.rearcl
that the area around Lac Saint. hat was left
i r c h i n c il s . r s t r - r n n i n dg y, n a n r i ce c o s y s - Jeanhad sornevery good cheeser.nal<crs
. . ' - . rt l r a ti n c l r - r c lsetse e p
c l i f f sr i s i n g4 0 0
ar.rdI wantedto seeancltastefor rrysclf.
" . . " r ' s s t r . r i g hut p o u t o f t h e w a t e r ,a n d
W c p u l l e d i n t o t h c d r i v e w a yo f a n e a t
' . , , : r l . r n sr lh a r k s( w l . r o
gousl l o s en o d a r . r g e r f a r n rw i t l r a s i z e a l t l eo u t b u i l c l i n h
" . n s , p a t r o l l i n tgh e f r i g i dc l e p t h s .
ing the fromagerie.We were greeteclby
' , . r 1 ( , rosf t h e f j o r d - a l a y e r o f
M a r t i n C i l b e r t ,w h o r u n st h e f a r m a n d
' r r l ). l r ) csl a l t w a t e r
below-and
t h e c h e e s eo p e r a t i o nt o g e t h e rw i t h h i s
" ,r u n c li t h a v e b e e n t e e m i n g b r o t h e r a n d h i s w i f e , J o s é eC a u t h i e r .
' t l r o u s a n c losf y e a r ss i n c e
Everrthoughthey rverebusygettinghay
, ' , r 1 ,a n c l N a t i v e p e o p l e , off the field that clay("fairelesfoirrs,"as
' ' ' . r , t h c A l g o n c l u i na n c l they say),Martin was eager
to sl.rowus
. i , c la n c l c l i e c lh e r e f o r
a r o u n da n d t o h a v eu s s a m p l es o n r eo f
- r r c i r t r teh e E u r o p e a n s t h e i rr a w m i l k c h e e s e s .
The cheeseis nradefrom one herd of
sheepand one herd of jerseycows, and
_2,'ù).",**
-7
,,:i1"1T,:'iîJJ::
ffiril.-':].]El-rrEl
+U
-z-
â:"
, ._
:,". ;.. ' .
,t,.:'rr.,,,;a
"
;;;'"":;,',
rl
z:'
o n l y t h e m i l k f r o m t h e m o r n i n gm i l k i n g
is used (owingto its higherfat content).
W e a r e c o n d i t i o n e dt o t h i n k o f m i l k a s
eitherraw or pasteurized,
but for Martin
i t ' s r e a l l ya q u e s t i o no f " d e a do r a l i v e "
(processedvs. unprocessed;dull vs.
robusttasting),anclhe much preferstl.re
latter.Now I do, too. There'sa reason
their cheeseswerc amongthose served
to BarackObama and the rest of the
C 2 0 l e a d e r si n T o r o n t oi n 2 0 1 0 .
We drove nortl.rand west, through
C h i c o u t i m iw
, h i c l . rw a s h o s t i n ga b e e r
f e s t i v a l ,a n d m a d e o u r w a y t o t h e
eco-lodgeLa Por-rrvoirie
Cap au Leste.
W e s p e n tt h e n i g h t i n w h a t f e l t l i k e a n
aerie-high above tl.refjord, with spect a c u l a rv i e w s b a c k t o w a r d L a B a i ea n d
southeastin the direrction
of Tadoussac.
T h e n o r t h s h o r co f t h c f j o r d , t h e r o a d
to Tadoussac,is a favouriteroute for
c . y c l i s t sb,u t j u d g i n gf r o m s o m e o f t h e
h i l l sI s a w i t l o o k e clli k ea g o o d p l a c et o
r i d ea l o n gi n t h e s u p l r o rvt e h i c l e .
A f t e r a h e a r t y b r e a k f a sa
t t Cap au
Leste,we rollecldown to RivièreÉternité,
w h e r e w c m c t C r a h a r nP a r k , a t r u l y
t r a n s p l a n t e dA n g , l o p h o n ew h o w o r k s
Fjord National
;rs a rangeral Sag,r-renay
Park.lt nrustbe il comrron experrie-nce:
f e e l i n gt h i s w o u l d b e a g r e a tp l a c c t o
livc ancl wclrk, but Park has managcd
to nrake it a reality.He helped us get
o r g a n i z e da,n c a
l f t e ra q u i c kI u n c hu n d e r
b l u es k i e sw e p u s h c do f f ,p a d d l i n gi n t h c
c l i r e c t i oo
n f C a pT r i n i t é .
I h . r d h c ' . r r rtll r . r tt h i s w a s , r s e r i o u s
d e s t i n a t i ofnr l r r o c kc l i n ' r b e rasn d I c o u l d
seewhy: tl'rerclckrisesstraightout of the
water and jr-rstkeerpson gclingfor 400
m e t r e s( t h i n kE m p i r eS t a t eB u i l d i n g )T. o
get a senseof what some peopledcl u1r
h e r e ,a l l y o u h a v et o d o i s C o o g l e" B i g
W a l l C l i m b i n gS a g u c n a y ,a"n d s i t b a c k
and watchthe show.
We were still a few hunclredmetres
from the north shore when Martin"Écureuill" My [rrain
Frédéricsl.routccl
s e a r c h e dt l ' r c F r c r r c h / E n g l i rsohl o d e x . . .
d i d h e j u s t s a y s q u i r r e l ?S u r ee n o u g , h ,
a wide-eyed trcc-dwellingrodent was
p a d d l i n gf u r i o u s l ya c r o s st h e f j o r d , i n
s e a r c ho f w h a t t r e a s u r eI c o u l d n ' tt e l l
y o u . H o w h e e n d e d u p h u n d r e d so f
m e t r e sf r o m s h o r ea n d n e a rt h e m i d d l e
of the fjord will forever be a mystery.
As I looked at his face, all contorted
effort and gnawing rat fear, I tried not
t o l a u g h ,a s I k n o w l ' v e h a d t h e s a m e
4Yt
r
i,
l o o l <o n m v o w n f a c e l t a c l d l i n gi n l t a c l
c o n c l i t i o n s - e v e sf i x e d o n t h c c l i s t a n t
s h o r e c, l e e p l yu n a m u s e dj u
, s th o l t i n ef o r
a place to land. We watchedfor a ielr,
n r i n u t e sp,a r t l yt o n r a k es u r eh c w < t u l c l n ' t
pcrishout tl'rereand partlyJUSt
to acinrire
h i s p l u c k a n d c o u r a g eA
. n c lt l ' r a t ' sh o w
o u r t h r e e - d ap
y a d d l eo n t h e f j o r dl t c g a r r ,
w i t h a r o d e n ti o r e s h a d o w i n n
gt y o w n
anxiolrspacldletwo d*ayslater.
After a half day or so of paclclling,
rve
pullecl irrto Anse dr-r Portagc,.r snrall
canrpsitcon tl'renorth shoreof the fjord
looking clirectlyacrossat tl.rekrwn of
A n s e S a i n t - J e aA
n f. t e r a q u i c k s w i n r i n
tl.recool fresh water I walked past the
p i c n i ct a b l ew h e r e M a r t i n - F r é d é rw
i ca s
c h o p p i n ga n d s l i c i n gw i t h g r e a te n e r g y .
" H u n g r y ? "h e a s k e d ,w i t h a g r i r r ." l t ' s
importantto eat well whcn you paclclle
all day."As someonewho's eatcr.rr"nore
than a few sodium-rich freeze-clried
nrcalsI l<newwhat he meant,ltr-rtI still
wasn'tpreparedfor what he had in skrrc.
Lessthanan hourlaterwe satdclwnto a
mealof localvenison,becfand vegctaltle
forrduc,local red winc and cheesesfronr
Fron.ragcric
BlacklturnanclLcs l3ergcries
du Fjord.Justwhcn I thor-rght
I couicln't
eat anotherbite, a honrenradeservicebcrry cheesecake
apltearecl,
courtcs;,of
Organisaction's
own Mathieu. I lc.rew
what I thoughtaboutthe food, but when
Marion-my foodie companion-said
it was one of the best cheesecal<cs
she'clevcr l.racJ
I l<newit wasn'tjust rny
appetitcanclthe freshair speakirrg.
As if
that wasn'tenough,the cheesecake
was
scrvcd with a local rasltberrywhiskcy
clcsscrt
wine.
We wokc restedand relaxedthc r.rext
nrorning. After a leisurely breakfast,
we pacl<ecJ
into our l<ayaksand bcgan
paddling south, with Martin-Frédéric
f i l l i n g L r si n o n t h e h i s t o r yo f t h e a r c a
a l o n g r o u t e . A r o u n d m i d - m o r n i n gw c
r e a c h e cÎ l e S a i n t - B a r t h é l e m
Tyh.e r o c k y
shore rradc landingan adventr-rre,
ltut
a g a i nM a r t i n - F r é d é rfi o
c u n da w a y a n d
we scranrblea
d s h o r e ,t h e n c l i m l t e dt o
a vantageltoint where we could see
a l l t h c w a y s o u t ht o P o i n t ea u x C r ê p e s .
B a c ko n t h e w a t e rw e p a d d l e dl e i s u r e l y
to L'Ansedes llets Rouges,wherc we
stoppedfor lunch.
Toward the end of lunch I noticed
Martin-Frédéric
watchingthe sky to the
northanclwest,and it wasn'tlongltefore
)U
:
r. ..r!
,'ly
";fËeniun-Ë;j1Ë::;
'l
I
\ (
-l
ïn:
.,'
) *.,{fl
h\
i.
i
he got us moving.We paddledat a good
clip directlytoward the south shore as
the skiesdarkened.About two-thirdsof
the way acrossthe fiord the rain came,
but mostlywithout much wind, and as
we paddledinto Anse à Tidée,the sun
was pouringdown alongwith the rainit looked like millionsof sparklinglights
laidout beforeus.
After setting up camp I wandered
down to the cook tent.I was copingwell
with the feelingsof guilt and shamethat
can arisefrom beingcaredfor by a superior, and oleasedto see Martin-Frédéric
whistlingwhile he workedon dinnerover
a Colemanstove.He had kept it a secret
that he was carryingin his kayakenough
rackof lambfor six people,wild foraged
lobster mushrooms for his "hunter's
he would grill to
sauce,"and asparagus
oerfection.And when the homebaked
blueberryand raspberrytart appeared
after dinner (Merci encore, Mathieu!)
togetherwith scotchand maplesyrupice
wine, I thoughtl'd been deliveredfrom
the world and all earthlysuffering.
The followingmorningwe pushedoff
in the directionof Cap Sainte-Marguerite,
back on the north shore.The caoe is
where whales tend to congregate,and
we were anxiousto see some belugas.
But the weatherwasn't cooperating.By
9:30 the wind had picked up, and the
two or threekilometresthatseoarated
us
from the cape were mostlywhite caps.
It looked like excellentconditionsfor
America'sCup sailing,but not so much
for kayaking.We would need to paddle
north while the waveswould be bearing
down on us from the west. Thoughwe
were preparedto do whatever MartinFrédéricrecommended,
when he said "l
think no" aftera minuteor two of looking
out overthe fjord, I was secretlyrelieved.
lnstead,he turned us south and east,
a n d s t i l lt h e p a d d l i n gw a s a s c h a l l e n g i n g
as anything I had experienced.How
much I now resembled
thatsquirrelin the
middleof the fjord I will leaveto others.
Aboutan hourlater,we roundedPointe
aux Crêpesand headedfor the beach
at llAnse SaintÉtienne.Here the wind
was settled,and it was like we were in
a differentworld from the churningwind
tunnel we'd just paddled through.We
were arrivingnear low tide, and getting
the boatsand gearup to the beachmeant
haulingit a few hundredmetres.And yet
the musclework wasn'tall that difficult
becausewe knew lunchwas waiting-as
usualthat meanta whole arrayof local
cheesesand otherdelicacies.
Tired but happy,we thankedMathieu
and Martin-Frédéric
and rolled back up
to the highwayand droveto LAnseSaintJean,about 20 minutesaway.The little
town isquitepicturesque,
andthe charming Les Cites du Fjord affordsexcellent
viewsof the water and the harbour.The
town was also North America'sfirst municipal monarchy-becomingone after
a 1997 local referendum-and I gather
that King Denys I (DenysTremblay,a
professorat the Universityof Quebec
in Chicoutimi)was pretty accessible,
as
monarchsgo. Alas,the experimentwas
short-lived:
threeyearslaterhe abdicated
a m i d l o c a l g r u m b l i n g tsh a t a m u n i c i p a l
king wasn'tall it was hypedup to be!
After doing laundryand a few other
chores,we met up in Restaurant
lllslet,
where we ate exceotional steaks and
watched the deep blue waters rolling
south toward the St. Lawrence,happy
not to be out amid the whitecaos.
-nghâz9h
-Yb4^"ee
The next morningwe woke to beautiful
blue skies,and decldedto spendsome
timewanderingaroundLAnseSaint-Jean.
Foundedin 1838, many of the town's
well-maintainedhouseswere built well
before 1900. The town's covered bridge
has been made into an art gallery,and
much of what was on displaywas very
justto feel
highquality.lt was therapeutic
how peacefuland quiet it all was-even
now, during the height of the tourist
season.Therewere peoplearound,to be
sure, and the hotel and restaurantwere
full; but the town and the folkswho live
therefelt undisturbedby its visitors,and
the naturalrhythm of life near the fjord
seemedintact.
Curiousto see what local artistswere
doing,we stoppedinto a galleryrun by
André Bouchard,an animatedhistorian
and environmentalactivistwho creates
beautifulmurals,canvasses
and tabletops
(stunning,we all agreed)using acrylic
paints.As it turnsout, Bouchardlivesin a
housethat he tradedfor one of his oaintings,and he'sthe creatorof the posterfor
AmnestyInternational's
campaignagainst
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n r , l r ' s . r s t o n i s l r i n eP , r s s i o na n r l t ' r t c r g V
j L r s tl o l o h i s r v c l r s i l t .' r t , r r r r l r e l r o Ll rr,rr r r l .
c o n r a r r r l\ v . l l (h l r i n rJ t \ \ , o r l ( .
\ \ ' t ' l i r r , r l l r 'p , r c l < c r lL r l ) l l r c ( r r . , , r ) ( l
I r ' . r v i n gl ' A n s c S , r i n t - J t ' .or rnrl v r t ' l t r rt . r r t l I r ' ,
s l . r r t t : cl l r t ' c l r i v t 't h r o L r g hl h e ' r i <h i . r r n r
l . r n r lt h . r t l i e s l r t ' t r v e t ' nt l r c l . j o r t l. t n c ll . t r '
S . r i n l - j c a nW
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t r v s i c l er . o l l c c.lr n c l u n c l u l . r t c t lr,i s i n g ., r n t l
i , r l l i n gl i l i t ' . n o ( L ' a no f c r l r n . l n ( l ( . ' l n ( ) l J
, r r r r ,I r l t , r l l . ,prr,- r nttr , r . r l chr le r r t,'r n c l l r c r c l r r
i r , r , i r r , r r r rsl i l o s ,s i l h o L r e t t c.'rrgl . r i n sl th c
I r . , . l r r r l -. r l . l . r u , l c sssu n t n t c rc l . t t ' .
' ., " i ' l r r ' , r r l i n el () r o n ( , o f l l r t , n r o s t
i'-
' - , r r l c r l c l r c t ' s c n r , r l < ienr sl l t t '
, r r . r n n t , r n r i l r ' .T h c i a n r i l l
t'qion ironr Srvilzcrlantl
' r ()l
J . t c o l ta n r l M . t r i t '
s . r n r p l cns' r ' t . r s t r ' r<vl c r cj r - r sl -t l aot t r lc l c l i - h i r t l so l t l t t ' r r i o r 1 r r
'li'nnc,sst't'
o r r l r , r tlrt ioLrs.Tlrt, l(tinog.rrni\v.rs nr\' 1rt'rsott.tl
( ) r - r rr t t r i i l t ' .( )
l . , r v o r r r i ,l cl s, u r l , l((' r i p c n t ' cl l, r r n rc l r c e s t '
n , r n r c ral f t t ' rt l r c r r r . r cl llr , r tl v . t s l,o r a l o t r e l l ( ' , t l { ) l q l t r l
S . r g r . r t ' t t , t vj u r t i o rI l , r . r
t i n r e ,l h e n r , r i nl i n l <l r c l u , e c ' n
l l l ( ' , 1 1 - (, 'l ,r1r ( L .
. r n cl . , r cS a i n l - J c ' . t n .
l rr r t t ' . t r r r r ' r l r ) l l . i . .
[ - , r l c ri n l l r t ' a l - t c r n o o nr l,t ' l i r r - r t tor L
t l r ( 'l ) l . l (( ' \ \ . t r . . .
rc Morrt\v.lv l() thc Arrberet'clu l'rcsllvte
s t ' . r l su t ' r t ' 1 r , ,
rutt ltv
I .rc-Vr,rt,
.r rvontlt'rfulgr-rcsthouse
I).rnii'llC
c , r s t o r r e u aur, ,h, i c hr v . r st h t ' l . i r s l i t tt l t o s si l r l t ' l Lr'
p r e s l l ' t e r vi n t h c L a c - S a i n t - J t.'r. rt tn' ,,tt t r t l o L r lo \ ' ( , r , l l , l f I r r
'
u'ortlr il. Tht' lr,r r l a t e sl r a c l <
t o l 9 l / . T h c i n n s i t so n l h t '
shorcsof Lac.Vc,rt,arrrloncc'ag.tin,r'r,c l ' r , h o b l o u t l r i r - t t - c L ' s ,. l r ( ' l ) ( ) r l
u'ere sr-rrprisercl
to iincl that lrc're,sontt'
I h e t ir l l , ' .
h a l i a n h o u r i r o n r C h i c o u t i n r \i v, e '\ \ / e r ( '
t l r ci s l . r n cal sl t l r t t'ating eournrctioocl.
W c ' s p e ntth en i g h ti n S . r i n t - C i é c l éoor r r
t h es l r o r eo
s l L a cS . i i n Jt t ' . t n(.) n t h c 'r v a v
Io clinncrrvt' skrppeclbl' Mic'robr.rsscric
lilrqr stillrvork on
r l u L , r ct a n r i c r o l r r e r v e nr'v) h
, i c hl > o t t l e s
' cl ol lrrorvnSrviss
+ 1 , 0 ( X )l i t r c , so f l o c . r l l vb r u n e c l b e e r
tlrt' t.rrr'
. . l , r to l t i s r v i c l e l v , r v e a r a n c ll r o p c st o n r o r et h a t rc k r u l t l e
co\\s l)r.,.
rrl ll|t to lhe r('that procluctiorrrvithin (t )/c,1roT t\\,o.
r e c o 3 n t z ( ' (il
r \ . r l ) r o c l L r c c r T h e i r l r r e u ' sa r c s t o r e ciln J a c l <
D . r rt ' 1 .
g i o n ' s e n r r ri n , ' : c s , , u r c lt l r e
l < e g sr ,v l ' r i c hi n f u s ct h e l r e e r sn , i t hs L r l r, l
o f r , v o r l ccl l a s s, r r ' !,
i-' .
irr
Le,lrn'.,
'g,J,clî.|L'
',:il
Jc.rn,lvht'rc rr r'
S t t l p h a nT r e n r l r l , , '
Aclventr-rrcs'
T r t ' n r b l . r' r
thc iqlori
l o l -rl. r t l '
1l'' '
*rs.t!l:-.\!I!I|L-a'E._{-ltsræ1
Dlan
g o ug
r e t a u a ug . r r teha s eP r e
: x c r t r nsge i e L l i r r ' : ' ' l , i r ei e
r zsa c t i u i t i epsh. 0 t ûasr r dn a l s a u a l tg o ua t u i t l t Lsi aJ g u e n a g l a c s a i n t j e a
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'r,"fr
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Êt{.SniI
,i*tsr"'r
. i'iq&l'''
,;',*;
'=t
Tren.rblaywhcl sat in thc C;rnaclian
Parliar.nent
at the age of 2.1,and took
h i s c h a i rf r o m t h e H o u s eo f C o n ' r n r o n s
h o m e w i t h h i m t o L a c S a i n t - J e aA
n.krt
o f p e o p l e r e m e m b e rh i m d o i n g i t , l t u t
n o t m a n yr e m e m b e h
r e did it to protcst
growingecononric*
inequality.
but Métabetchouanwas the historical
meetingpl;rcefor nine Indi.rnnations,a
comnrercialhub as in'rportant
in its tin.re
as Chicagowas in the late 19th century.
E a c hs u m m e ru p t o 1 8 , 0 0 0p e ' o p l w
e ould
travelto thisplace,wherethe rivernleets
the "big shallowlake,"rrost of them in
largecanoesladenwith rnerchandise
for
At the mouth of the Métabetchouan trade.Tobaccoand corn were brought
River,we stoppedat the archaeological from as far away as the shoresof Lake
c e n t r ew
, h i c h i n c l u d ea
s n a r t g a l l e r ya n d
H u r o n ,1 , 2 0 0k i l o m e t r esso u t ha n d w e s t .
a kindof visitors'centre.We weregrcetecl L e p i n eh i m s e lpf a r t i c i p a t eidn a g r u e l l i n g
b y A n d r eL e p i n ew
, h o h a d a l o n gw h i t e
re-enactmentof the traditional ror-rter,
p o n y t a i ls, p a r k l i negy e sa n dt h e l o o ko f a
p a d d l i n ga n d p o r t a g i n g1 5 t o 1 6 h o u r s. r
nranw,itha lot to say.Lepinecan tracehis
( l . r \l o r s i xd . r y si n a r o w .
.l
rootsir.rQr-reltcc
ltackto the early 600s,
After a quick breakfastwe continuccl
a n c sl p e n t1 0 r , e . r rlsi v i n ga n d t e a c h i n gi n
north to Saint-Prime,
where we stoltltr:rl
r-r;ltil,e
coltrntunities
in NorthernQuebec.
in at the FromageriePerron ancl the
He g.rveus a crisp,cletailedpresentation ChecldarCheeseMuseur.r.r.
The n'tuseunr
o n t h e h i s t r i r ro t . t l ' r er e g i o n ,a n d l ' m
itself incluclesthe preserveclultstairs
p r e t t vs L r r ei t r r , t s n o t i n a l l r e s p e c t tso
flat of the Perronfanrilr,,as n,ell as the
t h e o f fi c i a lh i s t o r rr rr : u e r e ,b y t h i st i m e ,
originalworkir.rgeclr,riltnrent
thev usecl.
gettinguseclto lteoltlt'rr ith strongviews
T h e a r e aa r o u n dt h e l a k e ,u , i t h i t s t h r i r a n d a w i l l i n g n e st so c r l t r c s st h e n r ) .
ing dairy farms, is horre to clozensoi
There is little eviclenccof it today,
local cheeseproducers.Sonreof thcnr
,':i@-+
will just opcn thc c1r,,
k r u r ( t i n r e p c r n r r l lr *
w e s t o l t l t c r l\ r r , i , , . .
t e l l u s a b o L rrt r l r , r '' '
l-tow n'rr-rch
Ilrr,'.
f e w c x r t ' 1 t l r , , r '' r
w a s s L r l ) ( ' T r\)
t a s t c ci ln : i ' ,
Perron. I
l - . 1\ o r . ' , '
.rncl \
_( r- "
L.:'
i,.
i\.
ij.:-
('\
l.
'
_!
g r ec , i c c i r r i i r t
,',,r' F,t'.tr.lll
I
t
Ia
I
I
a
a
Tren.rblay,
who
It's a 265-l<ilometre
and her hr-rsband,
sunrrer attracrtions.
Jacques
the
l.runclrecls
padclIers
pavecl
ror-rte
that
circunrnavigates
welconre
of c;,cIists,
bike
p
e
d
all
a
k
e
.
W
h
o
l
e
f
a
m
i
l
i
e
s
c
a
n
b
e
s
e
c
n
and snorvt't.toltilers
ever;';,ear.Fronrthe
p
a
t
h
,
t
h
rcladthe Ar,rberge
is ratherr.ron-clescript, l i n gh a p p i l ya l o n gt h e
enjoving e
viervs
Iake
ancl
tl.re
gorgeous
of the
b u t o n c ey o r - r ' ricn s i d ea n c ln r e e tM i r e i l l e great
yor-r're
t . r r n r l . r rtrlcr .l rst r r r r o r r n di ts.
yor-r'llknorv
in the
and Jacc;r-rcs,
rightplace.The food is first ratc and tlre
Hugueswas not entirelysurc wl.tatto
v i e w o f t h c r i v c rf r o r r rt h e c l i n i n gr o o n ri s
nrakeof r-rs.Not k)o lrany peoplewar.rt
l<avak
laf.
to clo rrrulti-day
tripson Lac Saintsl)ect.rcLr
lf vou getanywherecloseto tl'revill.rge Jean,partlybecauseof the r.rnprcclictabil.ind partlybecause
of Saint-Fe<licicn,
you shor-rlcl
absolr-rtely ity o|-the conclitions,
(short poir.rt-to-point
paclclling
on a large lake
gct kr Microbr;rsserie
La Chor-rape
ior Ashr-rapnrr-rshr-ran),
rvhich is ;r rlicrocan be krts of work withclutchanging
Iharr
The lakeitsell'is v.rst(r'rrore
brewcry with a rostcr of or-rtstancling s(,encry.
.15l<ilorretres
acrross)
anclyet cxtraordib c e r s ,i n c l u d i n gb l a c ko a t b e e rt h a t l v i l l
n a r i l ys h a l k r wl .t ' ss o s h a l l o wi,n f a c t ,t h a t
r.rigl.rt,
t:hange1,or,rr
at least. The rrext
nrorningwe w.rndcrc(lout to thc parl<ing i t c a ng e tw h i p p e cul p i n r . t ot i n r ew i t h j u s t
rvincl.And thc u,aves
a nroclest1O-l<nrit
lot, wherc Huguesr,r,.rs
n.riling lvith the
can !l,etso big sclfastthat krcalswon't go
boatsall loaclccl
up. l-lugr-rcs
hastl.relean
o u t i n p o w e rb o a t si f t h ew i n d i s b l o w i n g .
athletickrok of a guy who's uscclkr cloW t ' t ' r p l , t i r t e cl llt . t l o u r n t i s s i o t\tv . t sl ( )
i n gt h i n g si o r n i n ep e o p l enrr t h c rt l ' r a nj u s t
olro or t',vo.He'sgoorl-naturcrl
sce as nrr:chof thc arcaas possiblcancl
anclcasv
t r - rtrh i n g .A n c l
g,oing,which are esserntial
is
t h a tc y c l i n gr e a l l yw a s l r ' o
tor a g,uicler,
horv nruchclrccse
the presiclcrrt
of Ecluinox,
anclhasstrong, rvhenhe hearclabor-rt
clayshc just
we'cleatenin tl.reprecccling
viervsabor,rthow to grorvtourisn.r
in the'
l.rughecl,r-rnclerslancling
that we cor-rlcl
rrt-Jea
rr region.
L.rc-Sai
the exercise.
"The rcalclbstaclc
to gettingnroretoLrr- r-rse
Thc r,verather
haclbeengreatfor nrostof
i s t sh e r ci s t h c c l i s l a n c cb;u l o n c eP c o p l c
see what .lwaitsthcnr herc the clistanccr the trip. We'clbecn raineclon brieflyorr
Fjorcl,llLrtsincethen we'cl
the Sagr-renay
clocsn'tst:cnrso grcat."Hugueshasorg;rn i z e cbl i k e t o u r sf o r l ) c o l l l ct r a v e l l i n ag l l
seen nothing br-rtblr-rcsl<iesand warnr
We departcclfronr Pointe
the way tronr Califorrri.r-LaVéloroutcr tenrlle.ratLrres.
anclheadccirvcst,across
is one of thc .rrca'sr.nair.t Saint-Méthocle
cles Bler,rcts
the mouth of the MistassiniRiver,and
toward the north shoreof the lake.The
was approaching30'C. We
temperature
saw no other kayaksand vcry few boats
of any kind ior n'rostof thc rrrorning.11
took us r.r.rost
of the day to paddlc to
Vauvert,whiclr is a wcll-developeddesfor
tinationfor families,with greatcabir.rs
r e n ta n d a s p e c t a c u l awrh i t es a n db e a c h
for l<ilonretres.
thatstretches
At Var-rvertwe iound the food t<.lbe
priced.
very,very good-and reasonably
Marion had nothing but praisefor thc
fish(doré)and the nrelon,
freshpan-friecl
and
feta salad.After dinner
blr-reberry
we sat, satecl,arouncla roaringfire that
lookeddircctlyout acrossLacSaint-Jean.
A perfectday.
In the r.rrorningwc starteclthe long
a nationalparl<
paclclle
kr Poirrtc-Taillorr,
or.rthe lake'seasternshore. The park
i t s e l li's c o n n e c t c cklr t h e V é l o r o u t ca n c l
i n c l u d e sg r e a t c a m l ) s i t c sc, a s y b e a c h
a c c e s sa n d a l l t h e a n r e n i t i eyso u c c l u l c l
We staycd
neecl(showcrs,a restaur;rnt).
in two Huttopia tents, wl.richwere a
r e v c l a t i o nA. l t h o u g hs t a y i r r ign t h e t e n t s
,,,
{
tl
i s p r i c e y( a b o u t$ 1 7 0p e r n i g h t )r h e yd o
boats. Hugucs \\/(lskccltinga closc
l i r r r ll L r s tt n o l r o L r r isr o n t Q u e l t e cC i t r ' .
slecpfour comfortably,and you can get
watclr or-rcv('r\ionc,.rncl lte|.orelong
B u t l r v t h i st i n r r , l,r v . r se c t t i r r gu s e ctl o
p e o p l e t o g o w i t h y o u w h o o r c l i n . r r i l y e a c h w , a v c l o o l i t ' c ln r c l r cl i k e a c h . r l b e i n gs u r l t r i s c r l .
w o u l d n ' tl r e i r r t e r e s t ei n
d c.trrrltirrg.
l e n g e a n c l l c ' s sl i k e a t h r e a t .S o o n u , c
\ \ r e h a c l a r c n r , r r k , r b lnei n e d a y s i n
W h e n w c w o k e o n t h e l a s t r t r r l r n i n g r v e r eb e v o n c tl l r c l r c a c hl t r c a ka n c lo u t
t h e a r c a , a n c l h . r r l o n l v s c r a t c h e dt h e
o f o u r t r i p , t h c w i n d w a s s t i l lr v h i l t l t i n g i n t h e o p c r r r r ' . r t e rt:h e r v i c l e[ t l r - r e
skv
s u r f a c eA
. s I u ' a t c l r r ctlh e s c c n e r vc l r i f t
t h e l a k ei n t oa f r e n z y I. h a c fl a l l c n. r s l e e l t , t r t c tl l r e r r r orrr i r r ql i u l r lr r e r e s l u l t r r i r r g , b y i t o c c u r r e ct lo n r c t h a t I r e a l l vs h o L r l c l
(l learneclin thc
exh.rr,rstecl,
ltr-rtHr-rgues
a n c lt h c . t l r s r , rcr ro i , r r r vl t o a tt r a f f i cg a v e : g e t b a c k h e r e s o o n . r n c lh i k c 'l h e n o r t h
m o r n i n g )h a c ls t a y e du p l i s t e n i n gt o t h c .
u s t h c l c t ' l i n go l ' l t a d d l i n gi n a r e a l l y shore of the fjorclouI tct Tacloussac,
or
w i n d b c n c i i n gt h e t o p s o f t r c e r sa t r i g h t
r e n r o l Cl ) r a (( ' .
n r a y b ee x p l o r et h c a r e ai n t h e r v i n t c ro n
angles.Eventually
he got r-r1t
to go chccl<
T h e l t . t c l r l l ct 'k t w nt o A l m a w a s l o n g
snowshoes,
or ntaybctry the Véloroute.
o n t h e c c i n c l i t i oonf t h e k a y a k so, n l y t o
.rnclpc.rrcl.rrl,.urclwe took advarrtage
of
A n d I r e a l i z e ci lt ' s n o t a b o u t f i n d i n ga
fincl four-lit<ttwilves crashing on lhe
t h e t i n r ct o . r s kH u g u e se v e r y t h i n a
g l t r t r - r t reason to go tc) Sagucnay/Lac-Saintbeach ancl too close to tl're lto.rts ior
t l r e l . r k c - t h c 1 t i : o p l ew h o l i v e a r o u n c l l e , t n - i t ' s a l l o u lt l t o r r s i n tgf o n ls o m c t n y
c o m f o r l . W l . r e nI g o t u p i n t h t ' n t o r n i t , i t s l L r t u f c L. i k e ar l o t o f p e o l t l ew h o
good ones. i
ing I'rew.rs contentplatingwhc.therthc
l i v eh e r e rH, L i e L t el isv e di n M o n t r e a fl o r a
c o n d i t i o n so r . rt h e l a k e w o u l c l l t e t < t o tinrelrr,rtcantc'ltacl<Itecausehe wantc.cl
r o u g h t < t l t a d d l e( n o t f o r h i m , l o r u s ) .
nrore of what he likes-kayaking, cryAfter breakl'ast
we walked rjown kr thc
c l i n g ,s l < i i n gt r, t ' l < l < i n g - a nlde s so f w h ; r t
b e a c ha n d h a d a l o o k :t h e w i n d w a s s t i l l
h e c l o c s n 'lti l < ct:r . r f f i ca n d c o n g e s t i o n .
strong,,and whitecaltsancl sltrayc'<tr-rlcl Ir.rr.rotinre',wc were paddlingthrcluglr
be seen on the water's sr-rrfac:c.
The. t h c C r a r r r JD é c h . r r g cl,) a s t c a l ) i n sa n d
waveswere stillthree-and four-iecthigh
s u n b a t h c r sa n < l l o t s o f n r o t o r l t o a t s .
and just pr-rtting
the ltoats ir.rwor-rlrllrc
E x h a u s t c tllt u t h a 1 t 1 t vw, e p u l l e c lt h e
a n a d v e n t u r cI. t h o u g h to f t h e s c ; r - r i r r e l b o a t so r - rot l . t h e w a t c r n e a rA l m a , t h e . r r
a n d h i s w i l c l ,s t a r i n ge y e s :i s t h a t w h . r t
thar.rkccl
Hugucsl<lr ktol<ingout for us,
the day had in storefor me?
a n d f o r a f a n t a s l i cp 'a c l c l l e .
Aftcr sontc tlror-rght,
Huguesclcciclccl
A i t c r s l t e n < l i r rt h
g e r r i g h ti n A l m a w e
that oncc we got ltast tl.relteach ltrc.tk
wol<erup .lncl startccltlre drive south
t h c p a d d l i n gw o u l c ll t e O K , s o o i f w c
towarcl Qire'ltcc City, via Route ,l69.
w e n l . W c s t a r t e ctlh e t r i ; l l o r v a r cAl l n r a
Thc roarl rvor-rnclthrough lteautiful
Paul Auerbach isourpostt
b y p a r l d l i n gs t r a i g h ti n t o l a r g c ,s t r o n g
n r o u n t a i n sa n r l v a l l c y s ,r r u c h s t e e p e r Gear Editor,and long-time kayakand
s w e l l s , t h e w a t c r c r a s h i n go v e r o L r r a n c l m o r e c l r a n r a l i tch a n I t h o u g h t l ' c l
outdoor enthusiast.
:r.:j.-i::: i
':
.l.:".-
skills!The easiestway to get around is
;)
T h e c l i m a t ei n t h e S a g u e n a y / L a c - S a i n t by
- road, though rentinga car will cost
you
region
of
is
what
might
you
Jean
$40 to $70 a day.Forthe adventure
Quebec
expect in Canada'srugged wilderness: traveller,the area is also accessibleby
soft snowy winters;and sunny,breezy
bicycleand hometo severalscenictrails.
b u t s o m e t i m e rsa i n ys u m m e r sT. h e a r e a
plays host to many festivalsthroughout
t h e y e a r , i n c l u d i n ga b e e r f e s t i v a li n
is a veritable
Saguenay/Lac-Saint-Jean
t h e P o r t o f C h i c o u t i m i n J u l y ,a m u s i c
o a s i s o f a d v e n t u r eo p t i o n s :k a y a k i n g ,
festivalin Tadoussac
in June,snow drag
r a f t i n g h, i k i n g ,c a m p i n g c, y c l i n g c, l i m b r a c i n g i n R o b e r v a li n M a r c h , a n d a
i n g , c r o s sc o u n t r ys k i i n g ,d o g s l e d d i n g ,
b l u e b e r r yf e s t i v ailn D o l b e a u - M i s t a s s i n i s n o w b o a r d i n g i, c e f i s h i n g a n d e v e n
in August.
ATV|ngare all on offer.
The tourist centre of Tadoussac,
situatedat the mouth of the Saguenay
T h e r e g i o n i s e a s i l ya c c e s s i b lvei a t h e
River,is one of Canada'soldestvillages.
S a g u e n a y - B a g o t v iAl lier p o r t , w h i c h i s
Hereyou can easilywhalewatch,or use
a c t u a l l ya C a n a d i a r F
. ro r c e sB a s et h a t
t h e v i l l a g ea s a n e x p l o r a t i o nI a u n c h i n g
s h a r e si t s f a c i l i t i e sw i t h t l r e p u b l i c .Y o u
p o i n t . H i k i n g , c a n o e i n g ,s n o w s h o e i n g
can fly to Saguenay/Lac-Saint-Jean
from
a n d c y c l i n ga r e a l l d o a b l e ,a n d t h e r e ' s
Toronto or Vancouver regularlyvia a
a fantastic 42-l<ilometre-long
trek to
stopoverin Morrtrealor Quebec City.
S a i n t e - M a r g u e rB
i ta
e ya l o n gt h e r i v e r .
B y c a r , i t i s a p p r o x i m a t e l2y1 0 k i l o m e The river itself,which runs eastfrom
tres from Quebec City, 460 kilor.r.retres Lac Saint-Jean
and flows into the mighty
irom Montreal, and abr-ruta thousand St.LawrenceRiver,is approximately
165
from Toronto.
kilometresin lerrgth.Kayakingis a popr"rlar choice-you can explore beaclres,
c a v e sa n d w i l d l i f ea s w e l l a s c a m pa l o n g
The region does lrave a public transit the way. Accessingthe river via kayak
n e t w o r k j;u s t k e e pi n m i n d t h a t i t i s p r e i s e a s i l yd o a b l e a t f o u r c o m m u n i t i e s :
d o m i n a t e l yF r e n c hs p e a k i n g - s ob r i n ga
L a B a i e ,S a i n t e - R o s e - d u - N oR
r di v, i è r e dictionaryand be preparedto test your
Éternitéand LAnseSaint-Jean.
The water
4I,>gûffiD
("n:>
58
can be dangerous,so if inexperienced
takea guidedtour.
Along the top half of the riverand
a r o u n dL a c S a i n t - J e ai n
s a 256-kilomet r e c y c l i n gc i r c u i tc a l l e dV é l o r o u t ed e s
Bleuets.You can bike the path yourself
or again take a guided tour. The path
crosses Pointe-TaillonNational Park,
w h e r e y o u c a n h i k e ,s w i m a n d c a n o e .
In fact, there are four nationalparks in
Pointe-Tai
llon
Saguenay/Lac-Saint-jean:
and Monts-Valin,as well as Saguenay
Fjord National Park and Saguenay-St.
LawrenceMarine Park.
T h e r e i s a l s o g r e a t r o c k c l i m b i n gt o
b e h a d h e r e ,i n c l u d i n ga 1 O O - f o octr a g
n e a rC l . r i c o u t i m
on
i t h e n o r t l rs i d eo f t h e
wall at Tableau;and tlre
river;a 5OO-foot
1 , 0 0 0 - f o oC
t a p eT r i n i t yw a l l a t E t e r r r i t y
Bay (what Paul Auerbach referredto
, h i c h h a sf r e e
a s " b i g w a l l c l i m b i n g " )w
c a m p i n ga t i t s b a s e .
Saguenay/Lac-Saint-Jean
has a strong
First Nations history-a visit to the
reserveof Mashteuiatsh,
on the western
of
the
lake,
is
reconrmended.
The
edge
Native Museum of Mashteuiatshhosts
e x h i b i t sw, o r k s h o p sc,u l t u r ael v e n t sa n d
t h e o p p o r t u n i t yt o m e e t l o c a l l l n u a t s h
l ith a
a r t i s t sl.n J u l y ,i t h o s t sa f e s t i v aw
c a n o e i n ga n d p o r t a g i n gc o m p e t i t i o n ,
triathlonand Powwow ceremony.